C.K. tries a Yihua 948 solder/desolder station
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- Опубліковано 12 лис 2022
- Needed a desolder station, and the Weller I want is more than $1,000 and I don’t need it very often so not worth that cost. Finally picked up a cheap one by YiHue, $140 on Amazon.
Works OK. Pretty good desoldering, and an OK soldering iron, though I need to get better tips for it.
Product link
www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTXCHGV?...
Link to the Yihua through-hole solder/desolder station video
• C.K. tries a Yihua Hot... - Навчання та стиль
For unleaded solder and old work, it really helps to apply fresh solder to the joint prior to desoldering. Liquid or paste flux enhances the experience.
Being aware which joints attach to a large ground plane rather than to a single trace influences how long the tip takes to melt the entire joint.
All true, thanks for adding. Takes a fair bit of practice to get the "feel" correct with these tools.
I dont usually subscibe often to channels before watching the entire video, but I had to pull the trigger when you said "you watch the numbers go up, I'll go get what I forgot" I'm f--ng rolling right now, priceless! Anyway I have to finish watching your video, talk to you later lol!
Thanks! Unique is fun. And you just pushed me 3 away from 1,000 subs, when I hit that y’all get chapter markers on the vid timeline!
Nice video! I noticed on my Yihua station, the unit doesn't function terribly well with non-leaded solder but if the joints are ran with leaded solder, it helps greatly. Also, the tip diameter, of the desolder hand piece, can be slightly large and running the tip in a circular motion around the component leg really helps. Of course, lots of flux makes a big difference.
Like yourself, I'm really enjoying my soldering station and find for a non-pro, the unit is fine. Thanks for creating and sharing.
Good info, thanks! What I've learned in the last week is that you have to be *patient* waiting for the desolder nozzle to come to a steady temperature.
This machine needs a lot of technique!
…and I don’t just mean the typical “wiggle and add fresh solder first” advice that everyone says. I don’t have this exact machine but I own one very similar and I know all of this applies to yours too.
First, 350° C is just too low for plated thru-holes. You wont be clearing many ground or power pins in plated thru-holes that way. For mine, 380° is minimum with 400°+ for power and ground pins.
Second, you have to dwell long enough to make sure it is melted on BOTH sides. Flip the board over and wiggle the desolder gun until you can see the leg and solder moving on the top side. This orientation also takes advantage of heat rising to heat all the way through the board.
Third, go ahead and pull while upside-down so you get that gravity assist. Heck, when the solder on top finally flows and you see the component leg moving you might even see the solder start to go down to your tip before you even pull.
Fourth, if you didn’t clear it on the first pull you aren’t going to clear it on the next unless you restore your heat bridge, which is the missing solder. You lost your heat bridge to the other side and the flow stopped when you only cleared one side so you must add more solder if you ever hope to flow the other side again.
Finally, you might find that the reason you repeatedly fail to desolder certain leads is because the suction doesn’t build up fast enough to fully clear both sides before breaking that heat bridge. It sucks up solder from the bottom side while the motor is still spooling up and the top side solidifies before you reach maximum suction. My trick to avoid this is to pinch/kink the hose while I hold the trigger to build up full suction then release the hose to instantly remove the solder. When I first tried this it instantly cleared several leads I had been fighting with for hours… and I was using every trick in the book.
That last one took me years to figure out. Even with every other technique I was almost ready to throw it out since it was practically useless for the kind of thing I bought it for (removing DIP40 chips in plated thru-holes). It’s suddenly very useful! No more of the Bizmuth/ChipQuick removal alloy. :)
One other thing to be mindful of but which may not apply to all units:
When mine was still less than a year old my suction dropped to near zero while I was soldering with the fume extractor function (runs the vacuum continuously with a pipe above my soldering iron tip). Obviously, it couldn’t be the gun since that wasn’t even connected. I was told to occasionally clean the vacuum diaphrams in the motor but I had to break warranty seals to do that. I had long given up on the desoldering function at that point. Eventually I opened it up to clean and only found a bit of yellow flux dust in the vacuum motor diaphragms. No improvement. The internal hoses were clear and already looked remarkably clean so I fully disassembled the motor to clean every component inside and out. Still no improvement. After nearly pulling my hair out I realized that I should see light through the fitting on the front where the internal hoses attach. I had the external cap and filter removed with the case off so light should have been filtering through the clear hoses, but there was none. I put the end of a water color brush in there and saw a tiny puff of yellow dust in the clear hose, exactly like what was in the vacuum diaphrams. Solved!
I still remember the moment when I heard the airflow on my iron’s fume extractor slow down and stop while I was soldering. Even before then, suction was so bad I had to position it such that the fumes almost float into it on their own. Obviously, the low-density foam filter between the internal hose and the cap with the external hose barb did nothing to keep it from building up right there where you can’t see the restriction. I don’t know how much of an issue this could be for a unit that doesn’t double as a fume extractor but it’s worth noting if it saves anyone else the trouble.
All very valuable tips, thanks very much for sharing!
That hose pinching trick just saved my butt on a project. Thank you so much!
@@musicman24XYou are very welcome!
@@CKHaunno problem! My particular unit is the Aoyue Int701A++ with AC pump… the older version (newer units have a DC pump). They are very similar except I can run the iron at the same time. FWIW, the tips are Hakko T18 compatible.
I have the Yihua 948-II, which includes SMD rework tools. It's a humbler workhorse at a really good price IMO, and I would certainly recommend Yihua products to others if this is representative of their range.
They're pretty good, yes. I did find Yihuas single-purpose 929D-V through-hole desolder tool to be head and shoulders above even this, it is a superior tool. ua-cam.com/video/cjxMsjHZD6M/v-deo.html
@@CKHaun@CKHaun, I just viewed your other video (thanks for the link), and yes, that looks like a nice piece of kit.
I was quite literally amazed (as you may be able to tell from the video) at how easily it worked and have used it multiple times since successfully.
The best one I've used is the Hakko FR-301. You can get different size nozzles and replacement parts are plentiful. Only about $320-50, but well worth it.
@azmrblack Thanks for the tip on the Hakko. I went "cheap" on this because I really don't need it more than once a month, and I often use a heat gun instead.
Hakko FR-301 is one of the best tools I ever bought. After my Hakko 936.
Which heat gun do you use
I’m still waiting on mine, but I’ve seen other demos where you wiggle the de-soldering gun whilst operating the pump.
Yes, wiggling is definitely a thing. I've been doing that now, didn't know about it when I did the unbox.
I call them Yeehaw. They are an ODM self competitor. Meaning they let others rebrand their stuff, and build other brands supposedly unique designs. I bought some X-tronic stuff of which they have Yeehaw make for them. So a person can see how almost cloned the products are. The difference is the location and access to parts and customer service. I once had a manual solder sucker fly apart as I pressed the actuator. I have an electric manual solder sucker as well. Although I think it gets too hot for most things and the tip hole is too big. I ended up using a spare Weller Wlc100 station to control the heat.
Good details. Yeah, there are some large manufacturers who spam the market through 50 sub-sellers, can be confusing when you're shopping. I tend to rely on the pictures vs. the manufacturer name to differentiate.
Does the desoldering gun still functioning after one year ?
Yes it does, though to be clear I only need it once or twice a month, so it has not had heavy use. I have lost a couple of accessories it came with, but that’s my fault, not the device.
I’ve just bought one hopefully it’ll do what I need it to dunno if I can get smd tweezers for it tho.
SMD tweezer sets are reasonably priced on Amazon, you can get a decent set for US$9-15, I’ve checked a few Amazon stores in other countries and they’re about the same price. Check out my tweezers video Tweezer: C.K.s tools and techniques
ua-cam.com/video/8mr3eySv9sk/v-deo.html
@@CKHaun dunno if they’re an option they work like a soldering iron
Got tired of suffering with spring loaded suckers and saw your review on Amazon. Great video, thanks for uploading. Hopefully sometime here soon I'm not lifting pads while trying to remove simple components!
Thanks! It's a handy addition, and definitely reduces the "oops, too much force" issue. BTW, if you do any surface mount soldering I also bought their US$99 hot air rework station, you can see me giving it a try here ua-cam.com/video/3p_JfE13HFc/v-deo.html
I have two Hakko, one 808 and one FR301, two years ago I bought the Yihua 948 for testing.
Both Hakko are better tools, but if you are in budget the Yihua 948 is an excellent option, for Us$100 dollars is an increible throughole desoldering tool.
Complete gun cost Us$40 dollars.
Do they make different soldering tips for the 948?
@shawn6462 Amazon U.S. shows replacements, and Yihue also shows a telephone number on Amazon to call to insure you're getting the correct ones.
Did watching this guy fumble around with the hot soldering iron give anyone else anxiety?
@cameronpaulaudio7226 "That guy" has burnt himself with soldering irons more times than you've had hot dinners over 50 some years of soldering, so I tend to be pretty careless with 'em, I barely notice getting burnt anymore.
A little surprised that you failed to immediately note that the spring has a purpose, and there's a blue switch on the back of the gun to initiate a spring-load suck , then immediate re-set. This may minimize the amount of time wasted inserting the long clear-probe. Otherwise, thank you for your video! P.S. My 948 arrived set up differently- and contained no soldering gun. Fortunately I already have their Yinhua 926LEDIII...but not cool feeling ripped off, or that someone stole it during packing...
Oh believe me, I've missed things more obvious than that! It's the beauty of doing these "cold", with no knowledge of what's in the box. And never having handled a desoldering gun before too helps. But I certainly don't mind being wrong or oblivious on camera, or I wouldn't do it. Too bad your unit was missing important bits!
The tips come clogged with solder to prevent oxidation. Its normal.
Good to know.
360c might be a better temp love the video. just got the same unit
Yes, I've been playing around with different temps trying to find the best one. I'll keep experimenting.
Read the book there are a lot of tips in it
For occasionally unsoldering job simply use a blue sucker.
@y_x2 I agree, i tried this mainly for how it would work on through-hole plated boards, which can be a bit challenging with regular solder suckers.
Wow.. Very good device!
Excuse me, how much it is?
It is currently listed on Amazon at US$146. Perfect price for something I only use once a month or so.
@@CKHaun Yes. Thank you :)
Nice machine.....wish i could afford one. Yes, as wookie says, from what i have seen, the gun needs to be moved around a bit when sucking and then it removes all the solder around the component. If you ever watch Haseeb Electronics use his, you will see the technique.
Yeah, I used it on a "real" project the other day and moving the tip in a circle around the lead helps. Of course, circuit board holes that are through-hole plated are a challenge no matter what you do, the solder wicks all the way through and can be a pain to clear.
@@CKHaun A lot of the time I spend behind the iron is in front of mechanical keyboards and I gotta say the PCB may just be a few mm thick but the pin holes feel infinitely long when they're stuffed with solder!
Next time I face through-hole infinite solder I think I'm going to try the hot air rework station instead, might heat the whole channel and allow me to pry/pull out better.
I’ve had this unit for about three years… the best word to describe it would be… cheap. It’s really annoying that you can’t have the soldering iron and the desoldering iron at the same time. The desoldering iron parts don’t feel like they match up correctly. Big tip: use the long wire to clean out the nozzle before turning off the desoldering iron. If it cools down with solder in it it is extremely hard to get unclogged again. Overall it’s not worth the bother. I’ve regressed back to my Weller with a standard “old school” solder sucker.
Haven't used it much myself, and now that I've found a heat gun I like I'll use it even less.
Which heat gun do you use
What about the blockage??
@user-vk3yy4xz3s Apparently it has a solder plug (the blockage) to keep the nozzle from corroding when unused.
Do you have a review after some months?
@marcomang6717 still good. I don’t use it a lot, but when I do it continues to work well. I had to realign a 12 pin pinheader strip the other day, as an example, and this unit made it a snap to soften the solder on all the pins at once, which I could never have done with an iron. I will admit, I cooked my thumb a bit too, but that’s sacrificing for the cause. So yes, I continue to find this a very cost-effective tool.
@@CKHaun thx for the info! :)
Hey C.K., it’s pronounced “yee-HWA”. I’m considering one and thought you might be interested.
Thanks! I’m so bad at pronouncing non-American English names, I embarrass myself. Though I will say I’m worse with French names even than Chinese.
@@CKHaun I’ve always said French is a beautiful language. Too bad they can’t spell.
Save your money, get the S 993a or splurge and get the Hakko. This machine is barely adequate. Takes longer but eventually gets the job done. I found the key is letting the solder heat up about 5 secs before suction, move it around to thoroughly melt the solder. The good thing is the gun is smaller and lighter since the suction motor is inside the machine, but you have a hose and wire, compared to just a wire.
What I really want is the Weller dual station, but even I can’t justify the cost since I use it maybe twice a month. Just gear lust.
sorry to be a bother but please lock the focus/disable autofocus on your cameras
good video otherwise
I have an irrational hope that the darned things will focus correctly all the time, so I rarely set focus. Particularly when I'm doing a 'tries' video since I don't know where I'll be holding a particular part, since I don't know what's coming next. I'll see what I can do to have more consistency.
Thank you for the video, bought one too! Maybe yiu can change the title of the video to the correct spelling-Yihua 😅
@realestek Thanks, changed! Oops on me for not noticing for a year and a half.
@@CKHaun haha, all good. Unfortunately, I had to return mine as the buzzer function does not work (it should buzz when the gun is ready to be used when you have that turned ON). Rethinking if I should get one again. I haven't actually tried the unit.
@realestek It's supposed to buzz? Mine's never buzzed. Anyway, you *might* want to look at a hot air gun instead, it can de-solder components (including surface mount chips) and solder SMD. Check my vid on that here ua-cam.com/video/3p_JfE13HFc/v-deo.html
@@CKHaun yes it has a buzzer function. Try it out, hold down the middle button (function that changes the temp from celcius to fahrenheit). Display should change to SLP (sleep), press the same button again (should change to BL or buzzer). Once you see BL, press the button that inceeases temp (right button), you should now see ON. Leave it and it will go back to the temp display. Thia ahould now buzz. It is in the manual 😆.
I did buy a hot air station, from yihua too but a smaller sized one. Model is 8858 V, i dont see any videos about it yet, will make one and share it to you. Saw your video as well!
I went with a cheaper option as I lost trust in the unit having experienced a faulty one.
ua-cam.com/video/tmUjsxGi2O0/v-deo.html
Здравствуйте
Здравствуйте! добро пожаловать на канал! (перевод Google).
For the love of God, use manual focus so it doesn't constantly keep changing focus. I got to 7 mins in and had to turn it off. Too bad too because I wanted to hear some reviews on this unit.
Understand, I forgot this time, I'll be more precise.
Pronounced YEE who wa
I am the WORST at non-English pronunciation.
@@CKHaun Thats why I posted it, I didn't know either
Turn off auto focus FFS!!!!,
I know, it went a little batty on this one.
All the throughole desoldering tools requiere a lot of time for cleaning.
I have one Hakko 808, one Hako FR-301, one Yihua 948, one ZD-985, one S-993-a and one S-998-p.
Next list is from Best to worse
Hakko 808 I love it.
Hakko FR-301 Excellent
ZD-985 Excellent
Yihua 948 works very well
S-993-a complete garbage
S-998-p complete garbage
Best Regards.
Thanks for the detailed breakdown! I may pick up a 808 and give it a try, good tip.
how good would you say the yihua 948 is?
@@josebarrios2464 ZD-985 is better tool if you looking something cheap, yihua 948 meets fine also.
For the price is hard to beat.
@@josebarrios2464For the money Yihua 948 is a very good option.