Відео

thank you, and I will be cautious!!

The one I just got has updates. Maybe they watched your video

I have this exact model. After desoldering about 460 connections the tool needs a very thorough cleaning to continue to function properly. Also if you are desoldering large quantities of solder (in mass not necessarily number) the solder will come back out the tip when you charge the pump, so be mindful of where you are pointing it when you do. Unless you like showing hot solder all over your board.

Sounds ace!!!

Sounds great all on its own. Loving the randomness. I’ll be building mine shortly 🎉

I can confirm that, as of dec., if there is a board revision...it doesn't seem to have made it out much yet. Got one of these for Christmas, and it is the 2000 revision.

Excellent review. I have just received mine - I went for the adjustable blade height version. Will definitely take safety seriously and will clamp it down and watch the exposed blade

This video and the link in the comments was everything needed to make this build fun. My blue led’s won’t fire up and half my and no idea which piece of circuit to check. The ones that failed are in identical patterns so something has failed..bah - but it plays. Which part do you think controls the leds? Capacitor? Resistor?

I have the same tester. My test process was a little different. For USB A and USB-C, I found devices that wanted the most power (definitely a laptop; might have also been an iPad). Then, I took all the USB chargers and power banks in my house, and tested each one of them, noting the actual wattage on each. Some were above spec, some below (ie 900mA when it said 1.0A). I did it before I was traveling, looking for the best combination of higher current and smaller size. [Apple ones with the retractable AC plug always a good choice.] One feature I wish the tester had was being able to feed the input power to both output jacks, ie. plug in a USB-A charger, but then be able to plug in a USB-C cable. I'm assuming because USB-C can do multiple combinations of voltage and current, that really wouldn't work.

This looks looks like a great station but are the soldering iron replacement tips the standard 900M type?

can you adjust the height of the blade?

Thank you very much for this video--your safety precautions will significantly influence how I use this.

i'm picking up R2D2 swearing. im sure it works well for hearing bats.

<...fast fwd'd through the unboxing part...other than that, good video. Thanks. I'm building one of these right now. Soooo. Manyyyy. LEDsssss.>

I replaced the 15- year old batteries with 357s. Cleaning the corrosion was a breeze and the only "slightly frustrating" reassembly was getting the led positioned correctly in the nozzle as there is a slight recess in the ring. Works like a charm as long as the batteries are positioned properly. Thank you for taking the time to make this.

That was a fun build! It also reawakened me to see if I can track / notify me of the bats that fly around my home - I feel lucky when I catch them on a 'buggy evening', but often thought it would be great to see if I could hear what they were doing... My thanks.

Thanks, C.K. 👍

Nice Assembly Tutorial. I’ve built a few of these. Regarding the 5 volt DC connector on the base circuit board of the Christmas Tree, what they suggest you do is fashion a strap from one of the resistor component leads. The strap is bent to go around the 3 exposed sides of the DC connector and soldered in place through hole where the support pins would normally be. The strap prevents the DC connector from lifting from the board when the mating male connector is inserted. I agree with you… it would have been nicer if more of the male DC connector shaft could be inserted into the mating female connector. But all in all a fun little kit to put together. Once assembled, I’ve given a couple away as little token gifts of appreciation. They are not much in the whole grand scheme of life but more meaningful when the recipient knows that someone built the kit for them and was thinking about them during the construction: value added gift from the heart that hopefully the recipient will cherish.

Hey, how is the station holding?

Mine works too well? It flashes and makes noise constantly, it will increase if I place my hand near it, but it doesn't stop. I noticed a tear in the insulation on the antenna where it passes through the board. I thought maybe energy from the board was leaking though the tear, so I de-soldered and removed the antenna. That didn't do anything, so I went through and re-flowed everything and did not re-install the antenna. That didn't really help, but I did find that if I switched modes it would be silent until I put my hand close enough to trigger the device. If I just barely trigger it enough to make the leds flicker slightly and make a quiet tone it it will stop when I move away, any more than that and it will continue to go off until I either change modes or disconnect the battery. I tried taking it outside in case I just have an abnormally strong electrical field in the house, no change. I put it down and walked away from it to isolate it from any energy I might be giving off, no help. Maybe I'm just constantly surrounded by ghosts? If anybody builds this and has the same problem and figures out how to fix it or has any suggestions please let me know. If I stumble across a fix I will edit this and post how I did it. Thank you!

I have been reading up on Eurorack power supplies. I get the ripple and noise when dealing with audio modules but I only have one sequencer module (Erica Black Sequencer) to connect as I am only using it with external midi or externally powered synths. Do I need to worry or can I use a ATX power supply that outputs -12 +12 & +5.? The model number of the PSU is a FSP180-50PLA if that helps. Thanks again, you have a new subscriber.

Hello. Thank you for the video. Did you put the 7912 reg and the 7812 reg in knowing they were different or does it not matter which side you put them?

I got this model but weirdly I can't manage to heat up the chip on my board enough to melt the solder. I've used the same settings as you and some aluminum tape to protect surrounding components. But even after almost 2 minutes of heating the solder won't melt at all. What do you think my problem could be? Great video though 👍

great video! just built mine too, although for me there was no gap between the button cap and the panel, i think you have to push the cap on pretty hard to get it fully seated

Thank you so much for your thoughtful cautions. I am deeply considering getting this machine to do my miniature woodworking etc. and I like my fingers so again thanks.

Excellent video C.K. and an intersting Kit.

Thanks for the video. We misplaced the instructions. I agree that it isn’t really stem, more like Lego bricks. No explanation of technology at all. 😊

I ordered this and worked for a few times, but sadly the rubber ring around the plunger went bad and can no longer plunge quickly. I tried plunging without it but it didnt work. I bought a hakko fr 301 instead

I would NOT take such microscopic components; just use the normal size, they are beautiful. Nothing nicer than a 1970 diode or transistor.

Grate video CK l have not tried smd soldering yet. I guess I Will try to learn that any advice you can give me.

As you. say they are a 'fun little circuit'. But what a shame the kit supplier did not place a couple of test posts or pads to allow for improved connection to other projects and testing probes. But 'hey', I guess that is the point, go build a better one students!

Very nice assemblies and demonstration with the Velleman Educational Oscilloscope. The frequency of the square waves was illustrated nicely. I wasn’t aware of Mitch Electronics till I viewed your video. There’s a wealth of helpful technical information presented on their website which is a nice bonus to their kits. I could not help but notice that they updated their schematic on the through hole version of their kit with only R1 and R2. I liked reading the theory of operation in that R1 coupled with RV1 controls how fast the electrolytic capacitor, C1, charges and discharges which acts as variable timing control to the 555 timer. Thank you for providing instruction and for helping me broaden my knowledge.

You are much braver than me tackling the surface mount soldering, and much more skilled too. Great video as always CK 😀

Thanks, C.K. 👍

Someone noticed that work with buttons instead with potentiometers is a waste of time and patience?

thanks for the video helped solve some of my worries with doing this kit!

All that build and talking and you couldn't even demo a quantized melodic line. Thanks...

I'm shocked at how fast it heaps up! It looks like one of those passively regulated direct to the wall irons yet it heats up about 10 times (30 times?) faster.

This video is awesome! Thanks so much for making it!!

I really enjoyed watching your video on building a ribbon microphone! I'm currently working on my own ribbon microphone project, and I have a question about the transformer core you used. Could you let me know what type of core you used in your transformer? Was it ferrite, permalloy, or mu-metal? I’m trying to understand which would work best for this application. Thanks in advance for your time, and I appreciate your work! Best regards,

Thanks for doing a build video for Flow. The reason why the Stir in output wasn't making any difference was that you needed to put an output cable into either the Crest or Trough outputs. The main out and inverted out only 'output' the preset waveform. The manual goes into more detail.

Thank you. Shout out from Houston, TX.

Thanks for this video. This device only takes a mono signal?

You need to switch your camera to manual focus if it can, this way you can set it to the area you want in focus. Your autofocus of your camera was very annoying throughout trying to focus on multiple things and very slow at it. Other than that great video about the unit. Thanks,

Im wondering if it's possible to take the saw blade out and continue to use the sander that way? Or does it need to be there too work?

Great Job building the kit. I’ve built 3 of these Jack O Lanterns, one for my granddaughter a few years back and 2 just recently for Halloween. They’re fun to put together. You also built the surface mount LED bat kit, that kit was on back order so I will build it sometime over the winter for Halloween next year. It will be my first foray with surface mount components. Watching you build it gave me the confidence that I can too. I learn well by watching others, so nice of you to build up these kits and recording how to do it. Thank You and Happy Thanksgiving!

Wonderful CK!

Nice Job. On mine only part of the numbers work.