Here's a few items for others to consider in addition to standard trench costs. $1,000 per day for a backhoe (here in Ct) then add in $300 for a meter pit, $150 steel manhole for meter pit, $150 for cast iron sleeve (forget what it's called) for street valve access, $10 per ft for 1" soft copper water line (wholesale likely a bit less), pressure reducer is another $350, and $100 for misc fittings in copper. (valves, compression fittings, etc) Don't forget $500 street tap fee from the water company on a new service and patch paving the street when done can add $500. If you have a boiler for heating then you need a back-flow preventer for another $75. In my case I had to pass by a septic system (less than 10 ft) so had to sleeve the water line with schedule 80 PVC, which adds labor because I had to drop the line in already rolled out flat. This is "cold country" so we had to go down 4 ft to meet local code. Inspection done by building department (plumbing) and health dept (getting by septic) and highway dept for road opening. Took forever and cost a small fortune all total. Edited to add: the name of the part I couldn't recall is the "curb box" and usually has "water" cast into the small round cover. Obviously it's' placed near the street curb. I purchased all plumbing materials and did the actual plumbing inside. The contractor chased all the permits and did the outside labor. Took about a week because we hit ledge and had to rebuild a retaining wall as well.
Me and brother just did my own main line 30ft strait shot ,dirt only , copper and a pressure regulator for under $300 , 18" deep 4" wide Plumber wanted $500 to just connect pipe ,no digging or material included ,and he wanted to us pvc ,not cpvc , so far so good , hardest part is digging up the trench ....
That’s awesome to hear brother! You inspired me lol. The wife and I just found out through our water company, that we have a water leak going from our house to the street. Luckily, it’s under my lawn so I don’t have to break any concrete to access it. But it’s still intimidating as hell to think about doing myself but the plumbers here in Cali charge thousands to do it. How should I tackle this? Please help! I found the galvanized water pipe about a foot under ground, I just gotta keep going to find the actual leak.
A developer in my neighborhood told me it could cost up to 20k for new and 5-8k for old. I've been trying to wrap my brain around it. I'm in Minneapolis so the main is probably 8 feet deep and located in the middle of the street. To do the job a major street would have to be shut down. Black top would need to be penetrated. Possibly, there is reinforced concrete under the blacktop. A curb and concrete sidewalk would need to be penetrated. Of course, the lawn. Which begs the question, why put the water main in the middle of the street and to cover it with blacktop. Wouldn't it make more sense to put it under the lawn or sidewalk? I do feel the need to point out that the service was free to previous generations in my city. Only recently has the city decided that it is the homeowner's responsibility and not the utility.
I had a question. So we had a water supply line break and the plumber replaced the line with pecs (the blue flexible tubing) and new fittings. It was expensive by itself to dig it up to diagnose the problem, but when all was said and done, I paid about 900 dollars to replace that. Do you think (or does anyone know) if that is a fair price I paid? The job was probably under 45 minutes. (This was not a job I thought we could do ourselves, just FYI.)
That was probably to expensive. Pex is a better material than PVC. It will last way longer. You probably could have found someone to do that for 3 or 4 hundred. Depends if digging was easy or hard. Depth as well. But for the time I'm assuming they made some really easy money on you.
that theme... its used on bdouble00 mindcrack videos intro haha :D and back on topic, i hope and pray mine is that cheap, i think i just have a small crack or disconnect, about 1' down under grass.
I just paid $1400 for a leak on the joint where the main connects to the pipe entering my house. The plumber said it usually breaks at both ends of that main pvc pipe. He replaced a portion of the 2' pipe going up to the house and installed a valve for the main house and another for the irrigation line. He stopped short at the pressure reducing valve. Is this a fair price or should he have included newer pressure valve? The house is 33 years old.
it all depends on how difficult to do the trench can be plus materials, he said between 40- 100 per foot. If the pipe is deeper it can be more because you might need a back to do the trench. Here in Tx it is between 40 to 75 per ft
The length ,the width ,the depth and size of pipe with new valve and regulator etc... all these factors is what will determine price range. Thanks so much for the question !
I just paid $3850 with no obstructions. I received another quote that was hourly, but I can't remember how much that one was. That hourly fee included hourly back hoe rental, hourly plumber and other worker. I might have saved money paying hourly but I didn't want to chance it. The company I went with had a lot of experience replacing those lines with a flat rate. This was in Illinois.
I dug a 6 foot hole to get to 1 end of the pipe , and the other end would be where the new pipe will be coming out , was already dugged up when I showed up. The new pipe was about 20 foot. I was with 3 people . We replaced the pipe but didn't put the dirt back.. DOING ALL THAT . how much is that worth ? putting the dirt back was for another crew to do , that's why we didn't do it ourselves . we would of worked over time if we put the dirt back.
+King County Hi King ! What size pipe did you install ? What type pipe ? Assuming it was 1 inch copper with the EXTRA deep hole with 3 man crew, i would approximate it at around $3.850.00
The Twin Home Experts - LA & Surrounding Area It was at least 20 foot long and 7 inch wide .. I was hired unexperienced . It was a plastic type pipe. And thank you for letting me know. Remember we did basically 3/4 the job . Only part left was too put the dirt back in. I don't work for the company due to the fact I suspected the job to be 3,000$ and my 1 day paycheck coming out to less than 150$
+The Twin Home Experts Here in the Netherlands, that type of job would cost about €1300,00, that's what the utilities company charges more or less. And it would be a two man job, most likely done by hand.
Yes for sure . The reason is each state cost of living is different ,more importantly most plumbers do not understand their burden to operate their business ,so thats why taking your time and always seek 3 estimates is best practice . You will see 3 prices vary !no matter what state you live in. Appreciate the question ,hope this helped !
just to do a repair line might cost over 500 here in Tx (Austin) replacing a new line several hundred dollars or a couple of thousand depending on the length , depth , ground , etc
The Twin Home Experts on the subject of using the wrong terminologies or the subject of water main and service installation? Also type k is my preference for service lines.
william brennan Because your the expert , would LOVE you to do BOTH subjects . Can’t wait to watch and learn more from you . Cheers ! Type K is great , when you have very hard water and or a recirculating system .
The Twin Home Experts in this part of the country k is the spec material for water main service connections. We're done with water main projects for the year but if I remember I'll post a video outlining the various parts of a water main and service tap and connection in the spring.
Here's a few items for others to consider in addition to standard trench costs. $1,000 per day for a backhoe (here in Ct) then add in $300 for a meter pit, $150 steel manhole for meter pit, $150 for cast iron sleeve (forget what it's called) for street valve access, $10 per ft for 1" soft copper water line (wholesale likely a bit less), pressure reducer is another $350, and $100 for misc fittings in copper. (valves, compression fittings, etc) Don't forget $500 street tap fee from the water company on a new service and patch paving the street when done can add $500. If you have a boiler for heating then you need a back-flow preventer for another $75. In my case I had to pass by a septic system (less than 10 ft) so had to sleeve the water line with schedule 80 PVC, which adds labor because I had to drop the line in already rolled out flat. This is "cold country" so we had to go down 4 ft to meet local code. Inspection done by building department (plumbing) and health dept (getting by septic) and highway dept for road opening. Took forever and cost a small fortune all total. Edited to add: the name of the part I couldn't recall is the "curb box" and usually has "water" cast into the small round cover. Obviously it's' placed near the street curb. I purchased all plumbing materials and did the actual plumbing inside. The contractor chased all the permits and did the outside labor. Took about a week because we hit ledge and had to rebuild a retaining wall as well.
Thanks for the GREAT details ,this will be super helpful for folks out there.
Everyone thinks it's such an easy fix..... Knowledge is key
Thank you for the video. I'm asked this all the time. You explain it great
Thanks my friend.
Me and brother just did my own main line 30ft strait shot ,dirt only , copper and a pressure regulator for under $300 , 18" deep 4" wide
Plumber wanted $500 to just connect pipe ,no digging or material included ,and he wanted to us pvc ,not cpvc , so far so good , hardest part is digging up the trench ....
Awesome !
That’s awesome to hear brother! You inspired me lol. The wife and I just found out through our water company, that we have a water leak going from our house to the street. Luckily, it’s under my lawn so I don’t have to break any concrete to access it. But it’s still intimidating as hell to think about doing myself but the plumbers here in Cali charge thousands to do it. How should I tackle this? Please help! I found the galvanized water pipe about a foot under ground, I just gotta keep going to find the actual leak.
A developer in my neighborhood told me it could cost up to 20k for new and 5-8k for old. I've been trying to wrap my brain around it.
I'm in Minneapolis so the main is probably 8 feet deep and located in the middle of the street. To do the job a major street would have to be shut down. Black top would need to be penetrated. Possibly, there is reinforced concrete under the blacktop. A curb and concrete sidewalk would need to be penetrated. Of course, the lawn.
Which begs the question, why put the water main in the middle of the street and to cover it with blacktop. Wouldn't it make more sense to put it under the lawn or sidewalk?
I do feel the need to point out that the service was free to previous generations in my city. Only recently has the city decided that it is the homeowner's responsibility and not the utility.
I had a question. So we had a water supply line break and the plumber replaced the line with pecs (the blue flexible tubing) and new fittings. It was expensive by itself to dig it up to diagnose the problem, but when all was said and done, I paid about 900 dollars to replace that. Do you think (or does anyone know) if that is a fair price I paid? The job was probably under 45 minutes. (This was not a job I thought we could do ourselves, just FYI.)
That was probably to expensive. Pex is a better material than PVC. It will last way longer. You probably could have found someone to do that for 3 or 4 hundred. Depends if digging was easy or hard. Depth as well. But for the time I'm assuming they made some really easy money on you.
I’m a licensed plumber who has worked for some big name/expensive companies and never would I charge 900 for 45 mins 😂
Do you need to have a plumbing license to install or repair these in South Carolina?
that theme... its used on bdouble00 mindcrack videos intro haha :D
and back on topic, i hope and pray mine is that cheap, i think i just have a small crack or disconnect, about 1' down under grass.
I just paid $1400 for a leak on the joint where the main connects to the pipe entering my house. The plumber said it usually breaks at both ends of that main pvc pipe. He replaced a portion of the 2' pipe going up to the house and installed a valve for the main house and another for the irrigation line. He stopped short at the pressure reducing valve. Is this a fair price or should he have included newer pressure valve? The house is 33 years old.
Hi Twin home experts
What you are giving a estimate per foot, does that include materials or is that just labor?
BTW- The pipe I'm putting in a type K copper 1 1/4. Going under sidewalk & brick wall. THANKS
per foot of what ? the hole to dig to get to the pipe or how long the replacement pipe will be ?
The length of the pipe, not the depth????
***** was like 20feet long or 15
it all depends on how difficult to do the trench can be plus materials, he said between 40- 100 per foot. If the pipe is deeper it can be more because you might need a back to do the trench. Here in Tx it is between 40 to 75 per ft
The length ,the width ,the depth and size of pipe with new valve and regulator etc... all these factors is what will determine price range.
Thanks so much for the question !
I just paid $3850 with no obstructions. I received another quote that was hourly, but I can't remember how much that one was. That hourly fee included hourly back hoe rental, hourly plumber and other worker. I might have saved money paying hourly but I didn't want to chance it. The company I went with had a lot of experience replacing those lines with a flat rate. This was in Illinois.
Great feedback ! thanks for posting.
I dug a 6 foot hole to get to 1 end of the pipe , and the other end would be where the new pipe will be coming out , was already dugged up when I showed up. The new pipe was about 20 foot. I was with 3 people . We replaced the pipe but didn't put the dirt back.. DOING ALL THAT . how much is that worth ? putting the dirt back was for another crew to do , that's why we didn't do it ourselves . we would of worked over time if we put the dirt back.
+King County
Hi King !
What size pipe did you install ? What type pipe ?
Assuming it was 1 inch copper with the EXTRA deep hole with 3 man crew, i would approximate it at around $3.850.00
The Twin Home Experts - LA & Surrounding Area It was at least 20 foot long and 7 inch wide .. I was hired unexperienced . It was a plastic type pipe. And thank you for letting me know. Remember we did basically 3/4 the job . Only part left was too put the dirt back in. I don't work for the company due to the fact I suspected the job to be 3,000$ and my 1 day paycheck coming out to less than 150$
+The Twin Home Experts Here in the Netherlands, that type of job would cost about €1300,00, that's what the utilities company charges more or less. And it would be a two man job, most likely done by hand.
Does state to state vary for plumbing fees in general?
Yes for sure . The reason is each state cost of living is different ,more importantly most plumbers do not understand their burden to operate their business ,so thats why taking your time and always seek 3 estimates is best practice . You will see 3 prices vary !no matter what state you live in.
Appreciate the question ,hope this helped !
It's going to cost a shit ton so be ready to pay up lol 😂 just playing but it will cost a few bucks 💰
How much does it cost to change your brain
$40-120??? San Antonio they wont even start for less than $500
+Ninja 87 I think you missed the per foot part.
just to do a repair line might cost over 500 here in Tx (Austin) replacing a new line several hundred dollars or a couple of thousand depending on the length , depth , ground , etc
You would think an expert would know the difference between a main and a service. Pfft.
=Hi Expert !
Would love to watch your video take on this subject ?
I cant find any videos that your contributing to .........
The Twin Home Experts on the subject of using the wrong terminologies or the subject of water main and service installation? Also type k is my preference for service lines.
william brennan
Because your the expert , would LOVE you to do BOTH subjects .
Can’t wait to watch and learn more from you . Cheers !
Type K is great , when you have very hard water and or a recirculating system .
The Twin Home Experts in this part of the country k is the spec material for water main service connections. We're done with water main projects for the year but if I remember I'll post a video outlining the various parts of a water main and service tap and connection in the spring.
The Twin Home Experts ua-cam.com/video/2URMNOCO9Wo/v-deo.html
There you go.