amzn.to/3rkLiu0 You need to double check which size of fitting you need for the size of lead pipe you've got, AND don't forget the pipe insert. Easiest thing is to buy a few different sizes and then return the ones you don't need.
I'm sure water regs say the MDPE pipe should be 750mm below the ground level and ducted through the foundations and insulated. If your re-doing the driveway i would duct it all in 4 inch waste pipe. A bit of a cowboy job that does not meet the regulations so best of luck getting that signed off by the local water company.
@@Interdictionyour local water company would of the external stoptap was renewed. They'd see the supply material of the outlet and have record of what it should be. Then they'd check of it passed a trench inspection.
I ve worked on a lot of new builds. Always 750 from finished ground level to prevent freezing. Ducted in the wall and under the floor to where it meets the stopcock. I ve used reject sand and selected backfill around the pipe and blue warning marker tape at least 300mm above the pipe then more selected backfill to ground level. I would've used one length rather than have a temporary/ permanent joint to eliminate the risk of leaks even if it meant leaving a coil outside. Tip: on cold days, uncoil the pipe an hour before you need it to take the spring out of it beiing careful not to kink the pipe. On warmer days it will be less brittle but still uncoil it first.
I once closed up a trench before inspection (needed to get lorries over the drive) Water board made me dig it up again to prove 750mm deep. Also inside the building I had the pipe against the inside wall. Had to dig up the reinforced floor to move it away from the wall. Plainly I've never done that again. You need it inspected and agreed or grief follows.....
Blue water supply MDPE should be laid in a trench at a depth of at least 750mm (measured from the pipe crown), but no more than 1350mm, from the finished ground level and at least 350mm away from other utilities (such as gas or electricity). Some water authorities allow MDPE to be laid at a shallower depth, depending on circumstances, but must be insulated; check local water authority guidance.
The Gosforth Handyman replaced his incoming water main in a video published a few days ago. Definitely worth a watch - he goes into detail on the water company requirements for the pipe.
Cheers - he's great. I'll take a look. We haven't actually finished wrapping up the pipe yet, so could easily insulate it or cover it with a 4" pipe for protection.
Should be 750mm entering into the thermal envelope of the building with it being ducted and sleeved for frost protection. Whats the point in insulating in inside when you havent insulated it outside at poe. From the water board developer services
If installing a pipe less than 750mm you need the Water Companies consent under Regulation 5 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999. Most Water Companies will allow this providing its ducted and adequately insualted...products such as "shallow duct" are great for this. Worth considering "Insuduct" if laying a new pipe to an existing building, it avoids to need to bring the pipe in through the footings. Thames Water would never have signed this off.
Normally like your videos, think you normally do a pretty good job. But that's just a complete bodge. Doesn't meet the needed requirements (unless your local company are more relaxed than others). No belt and braces in this video.
Hi hope you are well :) I was wondering If you know how much it is to change lead pipes? We had a survey report back for a house we are buying and it came back with lead pipes are hazardous and would need replacing has anyone ever had to change their pipe work? Many thanks
They're pretty good to be fair. I jokingly call it the wobbly tower when it's at full height, but it does work well and very strong. Couldn't have done the build without it!
You may find you have a problem if you haven't asked your water company to do this work. Where I am, Northumbrian Water are very specific about the installation. Either way, hope it improves the flow (pressure stays the same) as well as stops the leaks.
The clips were filmed quite a few days apart...that leak in the ground appeared when we dug around the pipe. Perhaps we hit it with a spade while digging, but I'm not convinced because we were careful and the pipe is surprisingly thick!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder oh fair enough. I was proper confused how you knew it was leaking when it was still under ground. Yea that lead pipe was a beast. Did you notice any better flow rate after doing the plastic pipe?
Dude it's amazing! Like washing from a hot fire hose 🤣 we've set up the cylinder now too, and I just wired in the S-Plan (all coming up in future videos) and it's so much better!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder awesome haha. I love having a shower that blows your face off. Looking forward to future vids. Meanwhile I’ve got myself occupied with a 3.6x3m man shed.
We did it all in one run through the house, except at the 90° bends where we needed to have a joint. That was unavoidable sadly... we've left the floors open though for a few weeks after going live, so that if there are any leaks we'll find them now, rather than after we've closed up.
The hole you bored into the property doesn’t even look at the regulations never mind meet them, minimum depth for water is 750mm, if you are not sure on the regs then it may b3 better to employ someone who is, if the water authority comes to inspect the work then they may refuse to connect the full service when you get that far
Because that lead part is not mine to change...that has to be done by the waterboard, and can't/won't be done until the driveway is dug up and changed. It's a very short stretch of around 3-4 meters
A bit bodgy, sorry. Still lead from the connector to the path on the road, and the crap pressure will be the same. A proper job is to run a complete MDPE from meter to internal stop tap with no joins. I'm doing one now. Do the job proper once and once only, is my motto on my developments.
Thanks for sharing all the content but maybe get a tripod or just back up some and slow down the camera movement. The videos are difficult to watch because they are rather spastic. Thanks, DC
It all varies on which water board but in my area the min depth is 750mm - 1250mm Severn Trent. I did my own over 6 years back. I would have gone in at 750mm deep and used a 4" pipe, there was plenty of depth there to get this, looks too high and doubt it will be signed off as mentioned by another poster. Also no need to use hammer on core drilling. If there were footings then I believe the pipe can be ducted and insulated at the lower depth. Otherwise good. Not seen that push fit connector for lead, do you have a part no or link. Thanks
Those guys are brilliant, really high quality work. I think you're right though - only took us an hour, and we'll be digging up the drive with a Kubota digger anyway
"So that is how you redo a water mains". OH NO IT'S NOT. See multiple comments re lack of depth. An awful lot of plumbers seem to think that you lay a pipe to a certain depth to prevent it freezing but this is only partly correct. To shallow like this example and the cold water may start to warm causing all kinds of bacterial issues. This is a really poor example and needs to be redone properly.
Yeah there is partial benefit; less lead means less poison, but you're right, there is still some. We are going to redo our driveway at some point, and when we rip up the rest of it, will be changing out that short section of lead left over.
@OfficeBoyBuilder just spoke to my water company and they told me all I have to do is do it up to my boundary but leave and extra few metres (he did say an exact amount but I'll have to recheck) But he said then they will come and fit it to the mains properly removing the last bit of lead
Incorrect. The problem was a leaking pipe, which we fixed by replacing it with plastic. We haven't finished the job yet, that is true, but we weren't going to dig up the whole drive in order to do that yet, not until we redo the whole driveway.
Link to
The lead to mdpe connector
amzn.to/3rkLiu0
You need to double check which size of fitting you need for the size of lead pipe you've got, AND don't forget the pipe insert.
Easiest thing is to buy a few different sizes and then return the ones you don't need.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks
I'm sure water regs say the MDPE pipe should be 750mm below the ground level and ducted through the foundations and insulated. If your re-doing the driveway i would duct it all in 4 inch waste pipe. A bit of a cowboy job that does not meet the regulations so best of luck getting that signed off by the local water company.
No one would know you did it so no need to sign it off
@@Interdictionyour local water company would of the external stoptap was renewed. They'd see the supply material of the outlet and have record of what it should be. Then they'd check of it passed a trench inspection.
1.5m deep for MDPE as now, SEPT 2024 ... however, in 10 yrs time, it would be stronly suggested for MDPE to be buried deepa, 2,5m if poss, please
@@rumpa09 LOL
I ve worked on a lot of new builds.
Always 750 from finished ground level to prevent freezing.
Ducted in the wall and under the floor to where it meets the stopcock.
I ve used reject sand and selected backfill around the pipe and blue warning marker tape at least 300mm above the pipe then more selected backfill to ground level.
I would've used one length rather than have a temporary/ permanent joint to eliminate the risk of leaks even if it meant leaving a coil outside.
Tip: on cold days, uncoil the pipe an hour before you need it to take the spring out of it beiing careful not to kink the pipe. On warmer days it will be less brittle but still uncoil it first.
That’s absolutely shocking workmanship that will need to be redone in the near future
I once closed up a trench before inspection (needed to get lorries over the drive) Water board made me dig it up again to prove 750mm deep. Also inside the building I had the pipe against the inside wall. Had to dig up the reinforced floor to move it away from the wall.
Plainly I've never done that again. You need it inspected and agreed or grief follows.....
Blue water supply MDPE should be laid in a trench at a depth of at least 750mm (measured from the pipe crown), but no more than 1350mm, from the finished ground level and at least 350mm away from other utilities (such as gas or electricity). Some water authorities allow MDPE to be laid at a shallower depth, depending on circumstances, but must be insulated; check local water authority guidance.
And can not used LCS To drinking water
@@krzysztofbaran9342 tf is LCS?
@@ioncv5295 low carbon steel
The Gosforth Handyman replaced his incoming water main in a video published a few days ago. Definitely worth a watch - he goes into detail on the water company requirements for the pipe.
Cheers - he's great. I'll take a look. We haven't actually finished wrapping up the pipe yet, so could easily insulate it or cover it with a 4" pipe for protection.
Really hood video mate always good to see different things done on the house always useful
For remaking new/replacement connections to the mains most water boards will want to inspect the trench for compliance before they do the connection.
Should be 750mm entering into the thermal envelope of the building with it being ducted and sleeved for frost protection. Whats the point in insulating in inside when you havent insulated it outside at poe. From the water board developer services
Product link for the connector which you used to connect lead pipe and MDPE pipe please
How did you know it was leaking mate? I’m looking to replace mine asap and wondering if this could be causing damp
If installing a pipe less than 750mm you need the Water Companies consent under Regulation 5 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999. Most Water Companies will allow this providing its ducted and adequately insualted...products such as "shallow duct" are great for this. Worth considering "Insuduct" if laying a new pipe to an existing building, it avoids to need to bring the pipe in through the footings. Thames Water would never have signed this off.
Hi mate what the connector called and where did u get it from cheers
What is the fitting you used to connect the MDPE to the lead. Useful vid. Thanks.
Universal connector
Top job
Brilliant vid
Nice job 👍
Normally like your videos, think you normally do a pretty good job. But that's just a complete bodge. Doesn't meet the needed requirements (unless your local company are more relaxed than others). No belt and braces in this video.
Always very informative content 👍🏽
Cheers mate! Thanks for the support.
Hi hope you are well :) I was wondering If you know how much it is to change lead pipes? We had a survey report back for a house we are buying and it came back with lead pipes are hazardous and would need replacing has anyone ever had to change their pipe work? Many thanks
Free from some water companies, deffinately wouldn't stop me buying a house
What is the name / link for the insert that goes inside the pipe in your image on the front of the video?
They are just PEX pipe inserts...you just need to make sure you get the right size for your pipe
Hi, is that a bps scaffold tower I see there? What do you think of it?
They're pretty good to be fair. I jokingly call it the wobbly tower when it's at full height, but it does work well and very strong. Couldn't have done the build without it!
can you do this where there is an internal water meter?
You may find you have a problem if you haven't asked your water company to do this work. Where I am, Northumbrian Water are very specific about the installation. Either way, hope it improves the flow (pressure stays the same) as well as stops the leaks.
Cheers mate, We've been speaking with them about this process, same as with the waste/sewer connections, because it's the same company for both.
You’re a great client! Don’t suppose you’re free for a few days work are you 😂
You can used lcs do household drinking water
Big difference on freeze depth.
3:38 did supervisor kitty approve the project?
That water pipe will freeze !
How did you know that it was leaking before you dug up the old pipe? Thanks
The clips were filmed quite a few days apart...that leak in the ground appeared when we dug around the pipe. Perhaps we hit it with a spade while digging, but I'm not convinced because we were careful and the pipe is surprisingly thick!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder oh fair enough. I was proper confused how you knew it was leaking when it was still under ground. Yea that lead pipe was a beast. Did you notice any better flow rate after doing the plastic pipe?
Dude it's amazing! Like washing from a hot fire hose 🤣 we've set up the cylinder now too, and I just wired in the S-Plan (all coming up in future videos) and it's so much better!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder awesome haha. I love having a shower that blows your face off. Looking forward to future vids.
Meanwhile I’ve got myself occupied with a 3.6x3m man shed.
What is the name of the adapter mdpe to lead please?
Couldn’t you do it in one run save having any joints in the ground!!
We did it all in one run through the house, except at the 90° bends where we needed to have a joint. That was unavoidable sadly... we've left the floors open though for a few weeks after going live, so that if there are any leaks we'll find them now, rather than after we've closed up.
The hole you bored into the property doesn’t even look at the regulations never mind meet them, minimum depth for water is 750mm, if you are not sure on the regs then it may b3 better to employ someone who is, if the water authority comes to inspect the work then they may refuse to connect the full service when you get that far
Agree with Wayne; joints underground! How not to do it.
Have you done the bit from there to the street?
Not yet, will do that when we dig up the drive to replace it all with new slabs
Why have you connected it back to the lead pipe ?
Because that lead part is not mine to change...that has to be done by the waterboard, and can't/won't be done until the driveway is dug up and changed. It's a very short stretch of around 3-4 meters
Can you give a link or name of that compression fitting
use philmac instead.
So you can cut lead with plastic cutters?
Yup! It's very soft metal!
A bit bodgy, sorry. Still lead from the connector to the path on the road, and the crap pressure will be the same. A proper job is to run a complete MDPE from meter to internal stop tap with no joins. I'm doing one now. Do the job proper once and once only, is my motto on my developments.
great video like always
Cheers mate, appreciate you supporting the channel!
9:42 isn’t the grey insert for the lead pipe?
Yes I was wrong - we didn't use it!
Thanks for sharing all the content but maybe get a tripod or just back up some and slow down the camera movement. The videos are difficult to watch because they are rather spastic.
Thanks,
DC
Fair enough mate, I'm trying/learning to do it better. Thanks for the comment.
Some good advice Dan and may I just give you a little as well, spastic is rather clumsy don’t you think..
@@projectlivesey5629 haha, yes I suppose it is! Cheers 🍻
@@danconlan8735 😊
It all varies on which water board but in my area the min depth is 750mm - 1250mm Severn Trent. I did my own over 6 years back.
I would have gone in at 750mm deep and used a 4" pipe, there was plenty of depth there to get this, looks too high and doubt it will be signed off as mentioned by another poster. Also no need to use hammer on core drilling. If there were footings then I believe the pipe can be ducted and insulated at the lower depth.
Otherwise good. Not seen that push fit connector for lead, do you have a part no or link. Thanks
A and E showed a guy with a mole machine, don’t think it would have saved much on this job.
Those guys are brilliant, really high quality work.
I think you're right though - only took us an hour, and we'll be digging up the drive with a Kubota digger anyway
"So that is how you redo a water mains". OH NO IT'S NOT. See multiple comments re lack of depth. An awful lot of plumbers seem to think that you lay a pipe to a certain depth to prevent it freezing but this is only partly correct. To shallow like this example and the cold water may start to warm causing all kinds of bacterial issues. This is a really poor example and needs to be redone properly.
I proud 👏 off y
Was going to do this then realised .......it's still connected to lead so I'm not helping anything.
Yeah there is partial benefit; less lead means less poison, but you're right, there is still some.
We are going to redo our driveway at some point, and when we rip up the rest of it, will be changing out that short section of lead left over.
@OfficeBoyBuilder just spoke to my water company and they told me all I have to do is do it up to my boundary but leave and extra few metres (he did say an exact amount but I'll have to recheck)
But he said then they will come and fit it to the mains properly removing the last bit of lead
This is wrong installation. 😢
lead water pipe? but lead is very poisonous to humans. i am confused
Exactly why we replaced it for plastic...they didn't know it was poisonous back in the 1930's when the houses were built.
YOU HAVE NOT REPLACED THE ENTIRE PIPE AND NOT SOLVED THE PROBLEM
Incorrect. The problem was a leaking pipe, which we fixed by replacing it with plastic. We haven't finished the job yet, that is true, but we weren't going to dig up the whole drive in order to do that yet, not until we redo the whole driveway.