Warwick, I love that you are doing these videos and making the stellar products that you all do. You are producing airbrushes and items with thought, thought about people new to using an airbrush, or maybe older and haven’t used airbrushes in decades. This is the way to build a loyal customer base that will sing your praises to other people in their hobby. That creates more painters/customers. This is the way it should be. Good solid products, phenomenal customer service (I read the comment by the gentleman that had to remove his tip with pliers and damaged his Squidmar body) that goes above and beyond. I will continue to buy and use H&S products if for no other reason than this. But I also use them because they work and are easy to use. Keep doing what you all are doing, please. Hope everyone at H&S has a great 2024!
These are fantastic vids for someone like me, transitioning into airbrushing. This is worth repeating - Short and to the point! I love how you go straight at the subject content clear, concise and not a bunch of blabbering filler talk.
There are a lot of tips on the internet about airbrushing and some of it is by people who really know their stuff. The thing that makes this channel different then just handing out tips is that you guys teach us how to build good habits. That philosophy is also carried over to your products, the Ultra 2024 is a great example of that. Good habits makes a great airbrush and a great airbrush user. That’s the lesson I take away every time I watch your videos or pick up one of your H&S brushes. 👍
I literally just got on UA-cam to find a fix for both these Issues I was having, I just bought an Ultra 2024 & I love it, no desire to use another Airbrush for anything other then general non detail work.
I have airbrushed for a number of years. I’ve used a variety of airbrushes from different manufacturers from cheaper models through to the infinity. I’ve used them for painting scale models and they’ve all done a reasonable job with my skills at the time. I have just received my new evolution cr+ 24. WOW, what a beautifully engineered tool. The effort you guys have put into its development shows in every element of it. It’s hands down the best airbrush I’ve ever owned. A joy to use and it looks great too. So a big thank you for all of you at Harder and Steenbeck. Have a great 2024. 🍻
I now check youtube daily for new videos from H&S. They are straight forward and take the complication out of airbrushing. I just got my 2024 Evolution and cannot wait to start painting with it. Keep the great educational videos coming.
Hi Warrick, I have just ordered the Ultra 2024 and now i am sooking up all the info you provide within these videos to get a good start in my airbrush journy. Thank you very much and greetings from Holland.
Today I received my Ultra 2024. I’m reasonably new to the airbrushing world. Only played around a couple of times before today. I’m blown away with the quality of the products produced by H&S. these videos are fantastic. Super informative and inspiring. Love the passion you have. Can tell it’s truly genuine too. 👍🏻
@@harderairbrush there is also a question that's been sitting at the back of my head, I have the ultra 2024, will the old ultra 0.2 needle+nozzle set work with it? And will there be future optional nozzle cap options for it?
Thanks for another really helpful video. Watching these presentations has really given me the advice and guidance I need to have the confidence to enjoy using my H&S airbrushes.
Hey - thanks so much for that comment. Confidence is built on success, but also on learning to not fear failure. And always remember: "If you hear a voice within you say 'you cannot paint,' then by all means paint, and that voice will be silenced." Vincent Van Gogh. W
I am blown away by the information shared on your videos! Your recent video showing the Prismatic effects on the dragon opened up a whole new world of ideas for me! I spray Fiber Reactive dyes on turned wooden bowls, and have been doing that for a while now, and demonstrate this process to the local woodturning groups. As my confidence and skills increase, I want to add Acrylic to my options for decorative features, especially for carved features, and feel that I will now be able to just coast into that when the time comes. I have quite a few airbrushes, including the Ultra 2024. Thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge!
Everything that slides, doesn't mind a bit of lube. Our engineering fits and finishes are smooth enough that they don't NEED lube, but as we all know, a little lube never hurts. I wouldn't lube anything that touches paint, and generally, airvalve components don't really need it. The trigger system, the whole back end - everything to do with the "feel" of the trigger system - this is a good place to put a little lube. Recommend Iwata Superlube, as it generally seems to be the only one that doesn't make paint get grumpy.
I've watched quite a few of these H&S videos, and I have got to say how helpful and informative they are, and to compliment this chap on his presentation skills. Just excellent.
I love my infinity, but wow the 2024 Evo just feel it's making me paint better, the new needle and trigger make me feel like a surgeon putting the exact amount in the right spot. Outstanding work , I can't even imagine how magnificent the infinity 2024 will be
Hi Me and my partner were looking for professional and beginners friendly airbrush and we have found your videos on UA-cam. They are very informative, professional and absolutely helpful, especially for someone starting to use airbrush. My partner has bought today Ultra model. Cant wait for delivery 😅. My partner likes birds figurines and he will go this direction, I am felter, mainly 3D needle felted sculptures and I am going to try to paint them. So exciting 😂 Thank you for your video lessons, just perfect. I subscribed your channel. Happy painting 🎉
Hey what an awesome message!! Thanks so much for taking the time to write and really glad that you like the channel. Thanks for joining us and keep us informed about your progress together! W
Thank you for your info and guidance on paint and care for Airbrush. No matter what I think I know ( dont use any citadel white 😂) or have been taught, there is always something to learn/ realise! Thank you once again Warwick n thank you to all at H&S
I think that first question can also be answered by mentioning airbrushing technique. 1. Press down for air (away from the target) 2. Pull back for paint (away from target) 3. Check the pressure and flow of paint 4. Spray the paint on, continuous movement of the AB 5. Move the brush off the target and release. Obviously this isn’t always possible, but I think it’s a good habit to develop
Thanks for your comment, BUT It's not always relevant to start the flow of paint off target. I'm concerned by your point 5... if you JUST release, then most likely, you will shut the air before the paint... this then results in a drop of paint sitting on your needle tip, ready to ruin your day the next time you press down. The ULTRA 2024 does prevent this happening by the way, even IF you do just release. The best habit is to make sure that you finish every stroke by pushing forward, and then releasing up. This way, your needle tip is always perfectly clean, and then there is zero risk in starting a painting stroke ON the target - something which we frequently need to do. Hope that helps! W
Thanks Warwick when I first took this up I got tip dry for the first time ,thought I'd messed up the brush so stripped it completely then found out I couldn't put it back together so frantically face timed dred and he was busy so took me 2hrs to reassemble properly learning curve bro 😮😮😮😮😮
Hey Warwick.Thanks for your very intresting vids. I just bought a H&S Evolution Silverline. How do you bubble back ( for mixing or cleaning ) it with the holes in the nozle? Thanking you for answering.
Hello Warwick, just bought the H&S Evolution Silverline. How do you bubble back ( for mixing paint or cleaning ) the Evolution nozzle with the holes in it? Btw, love your vids, i learned a lot.
Boy oh boy. New FAQ. Click, watch, enjoy. The short video clip showing an application of your Tipps and infos is really helpful for not so expirienced painters to visualize the issue and solution. Thanks Now in other news…please produce more airbrushes :D Pk-Pro is already out of stock for the EvoCrPlus 2in1. And I „need“ to switching my old Evo CR Plus. …I really do. Please tell that my wife if she asks. Absolutely necessary. 😂
@Warwick @Harder und Steenbeck your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaner for "mixing" acrylic paint in bottles ? (17ml bottle in zipper bag, in sonic cleaner, run for 90 seconds, rest bottle some minutes, and viola smooth mixed paint)
Hi, I have been watching your videos and they have been so helpful, I bought the ultra 2024, I am very new, I am noticing that when I change the presets, sometimes nothing comes out, just air when I push down and pull back. So I end up just using the normal pull back and no presets :( I am not even sure I am using the right way to explain it, haha. It also appears that I can pull the trigger back a bit without pushing down and air trickles out. But maybe I have no idea what to expect when pushing and pulling the trigger and what it should look like or sound like when I change the presets. Cheers and thank you!!
Hello, what would happen if i were to use your needle cleaning kit for the 0.15mm nozzle? The needle kit says it works for the 0.2mm at the smallest. Would it damage my nozzle or just not clean it well?
It will not reach the mouth of the nozzle, and therefore it does not do the job well. HOWEVER, please understand that this is really a last resort. It is so easy to keep your nozzle clean with just liquid if you never let paint dry in it. Much safer, much faster, much cheaper, much easier!
G"Day Warwick, am enjoying H&S content (keep it coming), just wondering how you are addressing the various naysayers out there that comment on Trigger response with the Infinity - i myself have not experienced this as i adjust the Airbrush to suit me. Anyway thanks and keep up the good work.
Honestly, the trigger response could do with improving, which was the first goal which we set ourselves to fulfil with the 2024 airbrushes. You will feel a very real difference on the new airbrushes. There's too much great work out there to say that the previous models had a "problem" but it's true to say that we could improve them there, and that's exactly what we've done. Personally, I'm super happy with the results and the reviews around UA-cam are coming in with the same opinion. I would go so far as to say that I believe that the 2024 H&S trigger response is now at the pinnacle of what's available today.
I just bought an Ultra and I am entirely new to airbrushing. I can’t figure out what size connector I need to fit the hose I have! Any suggestions? Thanks for the help! Really looking forward to starting with my airbrush
Hey Matt! Do watch the ULTRA instructional video that the QR code goes to which came in your box... that covers how to get hooked up. The airbrushes all come with a quick connector, BUT you probably don't have that on your hose - just unscrew the quick connector and your hose will most likely go straight on. Most hoses now are 1/8bsp and this is what our airbrushes connect to. If your hose isn't that, any air hose with a 1/8bsp female end will work. Hope that helps!
Hi Warwick, some feedback for the assembly line if I may. I recently received my Squidmar Black Evo 2024 and found the needle nozzle was so tight I had to use pliers to unbreak the seal. This has resulted in the Black paint being chipped arround the nozzle area. If the nozzles can be put on with hand tight pressure, this would help. I have Neuropathy in both hands so I can no longer loosen things with my hands as I have lost a lot of my grip. Anything to help in this regard would be very much appreciated. Cheers Steve
Hey buddy - so sorry to head that! I can assure you that ALL our air caps are always put on only with hands. We do not use a tool to do that in factory for precisely this reason. However, I'm really sad to read this, and so we would like you to get in touch please. Email me on wjs@harder-airbrush.de - I would like to send you a new body for your airbrush so that you don't have that damage to that beautiful finish as a result of this difficulty, and we will also throw in a beautiful set of soft nosed pliers to help you with your Neuropathy without causing any damage in the future. I will also have our CNC room create a tool for you to use for taking your head on and off without needing to resort to pliers, but will enable you to develop enough torque even if you have grip issues. I've thought about what you need and I have already created the design - we can make it within two weeks for you - please get in touch. Many thanks, W
@@harderairbrushand this is one of the main reasons why I will continue to buy H&S products. Taking care of your customers in this day and age has been lost. H&S continues to take care of its customers. Thank you so much for going above and beyond! I cant wait to get my hands on my Squidmar black when I get back home!
@@harderairbrush thank you so much for your most generous offer, which has blown me away. I will ping you an email. Thank you Warwick and the rest of the team @H&S 👍
Hey Andrew... it's just convenience and precision, but only necessary to get the fPC if you use air pressure adjustment frequently, and for me, only necessary when you really want to explore low pressure effects. Having the air pressure adjustment so near to the aircap allows you to set the pressure much more precisely and find your desired pressure much faster with the fPC than with the regulator. And of course, you can do it more frequently and much faster, as it's right there on the airbrush. I really like it because it doesn't interrupt the creative process. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush never heard of them to be honest My painting level tends to be just above battle ready, so I lose interest in the longer video formats for painting so these q&a vids have been really good for me
I have a question. I purchased the new Ultra and the new Eclipse. Both are incredible airbrushes. Some of the paints I use are lacquer or alcohol based (Mr Paint, Mr Surfacer, Tamiya, AK Real Colors). Because of the harsher products used to clean these paints from your airbrush, I am afraid to run them through my Ultra and Eclipse. I only use them in an old Iwata HP C Plus. Can I use these harsher solvent based paints in my new brushes and if so, what is your best way or best product to clean these paints with. Thanks for everything!!!!
Hey Tony - thanks for the question - I assume you mean EVOLUTION when you refer to the Eclipse :-) anyway, honestly, anything up to and including cellulose or toluene thinner is no problem for all the paint bearing parts. Try to keep it away from the airvalve though, as the very small o-ring in there is a little more sensitive, and should not need cleaning anyway, as it is purely air-bearing. So go ahead, use whatever you want. No worries.
Yes I did mean Evolution. See, this is what happens when someone walks into your office and starts asking questions about something totally unrelated to what you are doing! Thank you. I was concerned about the internal seals and the finish. @@harderairbrush
It depends on the humidity of where you are located. Best advice... After you're done, wait until the compressor has cooled, then do it. If you can't remember to do it after waiting, just do it at the end of the session. It's so fast and easy, that you might as well just do it each time. Never leave pressurised air in the tank, also...
I bought the Ultra 2024 and can't get it to spray on setting 3 for more than 5 secs with out having to cleaning the nib. I am using well thinned citadel paints
Hey there - take a look at Angel Giraldez' video about how to thin Citadel... Citadel is a bit of a unique case as they don't have an airbrush thinner... Angel has tried and tested lots and has found that the Tamiya X-20A thinner works great... I'm sure this will help.
One of the best things to help avoiding dried acrylic paint on the needle tip is to use a small amount of drying retarder - it will not prevent tip drying but i will give you a much longer time before that happens.
I really wish my experience matched that expectation but honestly, I've never used a retarder and found a significant different. However, glad you're finding that - might be different behaviours in different locations/ humidities. However, the habits described here will help whether it occurs earlier or later. Thanks for the comment!
@@harderairbrush Interesting! Experiences can vary - from my experience about 10-20% retarder about doubles the 'spray time'. However i use it together with a lot of thinner, maybe the combinations makes the difference? Ratio is about 5 x paint:3 x thinner:2 x retarder.
I would like to know how to practice without damaging the airbrush, I heard that food coloring is a good way to do it without risking damaging the airbrush since the cleaning after using these products can be done with just water, would be nice to know the best way to built that trigger control with no "risk" Thanks in advance!
This is what I suggest people do when wanting to practice. Food coloring watered down to just see the tint works really well. Just spray on paper or cardboard and you can see it really well. Hope you have fun learning to airbrush!
Hey Diego... thanks for the question. Firstly, there's no risk of "damage" with any paint really... no paint is going to damage a solid metal airbrush ;-) It's more that you have to learn how to handle the airbrush whilst cleaning it - please watch our various videos on this topic, as it's way easier than most people make it out to be, honestly! Food colouring is great because you can paint and paint and practice the control of the airbrush. However, painting with acrylics etc needs additional skills, specifically avoiding tip dry and therefore clogging. The interesting thing with food colouring is that you can practice control without needing to learn the other things. However, eventually you need to learn those other things too. But please don't think that using real paint carries the risk of damage - not true if you have good habits on how to clean - if you do it the right way, it's super easy and fast. Watch any of our painting process videos and you'll see them. Very simple! Hope that helps. Also remember that food colouring is super thin and so it flows faster than acrylics, for example. So whatever trigger control you learn with food colouring, will need a bit of adjustment when you move to acrylic. One way to using food colouring and getting a more representative experience is to use your food colouring at more like 18psi to slow it down a bit :-)
Hi, i have trouble spraying very fine lines or small areas with white acrylic paint, i see a lot of dusting. If I thin the paint any more i cant go near, because the paint will be runny and then I am in spiderwebbing territory, If i increase PSI I get the same effect. Could you help, please? Thank you!
White is like the building jump in the Matrix. Fact. No-one gets it the first time, even The One. Firstly, you need a really good white. If you're struggling and struggling, then you might not be using a good one. I don't know all the good ones, but the ones that I haven't struggled with are: Vallejo Game Air, Tamiya, Golden, Createx Illustration, Pro-Color, to name a few. Generally speaking for fine stuff, try thinning not so much, and DROPPING the pressure a bit. The feel on the trigger is dramatically different, but dropping the pressure and thickening the paint a bit helps the opacity, and with the somewhat decreased atomisation, it also helps a bit to sharpen up the linework... pay close attention to keeping your needle tip clean though. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush thanks! This helped, i am using schminke aero color supra white, it feels better than vallejo air but i already ordered pro-color to try that out. The line is not as clean as with normal colors but I can work with this, mainly I am using it for osl and volumetric highlights so the second coat of color hides qny imperfections! 😁
Thanks for joining us! We anticipate that we'll be up to date with all of those within the next week and a bit... sorry for the delay - after that we'll be fulfilling them from stock!
Hi, I would like to get into airbrushing for warhammer. Was wondering if somone could make an educated reccomendation on what airbrush i should get. The cheap basic one I already have can prime and base. I'm more or less wondering between the 2024 harder and steenbeck releases, cause you have a YT channel helping people use your product. But I can't really tell the differences aside from price and some features mentioned on the site about the Ultra. I like the paint flow controls thing on the Ultra (e.g base, hilight, highlight 2) , and that it can be interchanged with parts from the infinity to get more details, haven't found anywhere that just sells those parts to do that though. Is better detail achievable with the evolution? Is there a new infinity brush also coming out that blows everything out of the water? What's the difference between the brushes are the prices differences worth it? I like the controlled zenithl highlight style tutprials of cult of paint. But I also like the airbrush styles of the likes of Sergio calvo, squidmar, and angel giraldez. I live in Australia, as far as I'm aware there aren't painting classes I can attend so depend on youtube tutorials to learn from. Cheers for any advice.
Hey buddy - thanks very much for reaching out! I hope that some others will also comment and give advice. Have you watched the ULTRA Painting Process video on our channel? If you like that method of painting, then the ULTRA 2024 would be a great choice. If you already have good control of the double action trigger then probably the EVOLUTION 2024 is a better choice. With regard to the various artists that you mention - all great - for example, take a look at Angel's latest video - it is shot using the ULTRA system. Spare parts and upgradeability - this is a feature of H&S generally, and with all the new items and parts coming out it will admittedly take a little while to populate into the various dealer outlets and so on, but I'm sure that everything will be easily available soon, and of course as things are released, you'll always find them on our shop at www.harderairbrush.com I do know that Cult of Paint DID come to Australia, so look out for their next trip - and actually I think Emil came as well recently, so it can and does happen! For me, if you're already confident with basing and priming, either the ULTRA or the EVOLUTION 2024 will work great for you. Whilst you can upgrade them with Infinity heads etc, there are other things on the new Infinity which are unique to it. But honestly, our airbrushes are designed to help people progress, and I would recommend taking the one which is the appropriate stage for your painting journey. Not obligatory of course, but it does help pave the road and make it smoother! Hope that helps!
@harderairbrush thank you for the fast and thorough response. Yes, i have seen the videos. I have a couple additional quick questions. Can the Ultra provide good results for volumetric highlighting? Can the evolution also be adjusted to control the paint flow? Cheers
I would love to have more information about the 2024 Evolution -- specifically, your claim that the .28 nozzle is compatible with a .2 mm needle. You claim that the resulting lines are even finer than before. This seems counter-intuitive, and I've yet to see an online demonstration. Would the principle work across the board? What about placing a .3 mm needle in a .35 mm nozzle? I have an old Paasche VL, and I've never attempted to put a (cheap, commonly available) .5 needle into that gun's .55 nozzle.
Hey buddy... no that principle is unlikely to work across the board. Firstly, technically, it's more correct to describe needles as "designed for the 0.28mm nozzle" rather than 0.28mm needle, as that 0.28mm exists along a taper, whereas the nozzle can clearly be described as 0.28mm because that's the factual size of the aperture. The interaction between the needle and the nozzle is not really the critical aspect of what dictates fineness of spray. It's actually much more the relationship and the interaction between the needle tip, where is sits at a point in space relative to the airflow shape and focus that's coming out of the aircap. That is really the critical thing, and where the design focus is. Now bear in mind that the needle is a moving thing, and then you understand the design challenge a little better! It has to fulfil the job of acting as a flow control valve on the paint, as well as interacting with the airflow in a positive manner to influence atomisation/ detail etc. So if you put a random needle into another airbrush, you might discover something that the manufacturer didn't but most likely you won't. Not saying it isn't possible though! But you might spend a lot of money without results... With regard to your Paasche - I am a fan of the old VL! It was actually my first airbrush. Personally, I never used the #1 set-up much - I preferred the #3 set-up - even for detail. I just found it overall friendlier to use, and 95% as good for detail as the #1. A very nice compromise, that head, actually. So in summary, we didn't just "put a 0.2mm needle into a 0.28mm nozzle"... we designed a new system of needle/ nozzle/ aircap optimised for detail work with today's paints, and this is the result. It's a system, not a parts bin special :-)... hope that helps!
Thanks for the detailed response, although I'm still not sure about the new system. I'm sure we'd all like to see the Evolution's fine line capabilities demonstrated. Incidentally: You got detail out of a VL3? You must be a god. Back in the day, I was pretty proud to get fine lines out of a VL1. (One had only about ten seconds of working time before the tip clogged.)
Yes, it's true - the VL1 was a bit tricky that way, as was the V1, in my opinion. But I was very fond of the VL3 and the V2... I actually developed a custom aircap and needle shape for both of those back in the day, which I used to make by hand. Fun times.
Why do I get paint splatter when I push the lever forward but no paint when I pull back? I have had this even after I flush the brush through! Please help it’s driving me nuts
Hi John - sorry for the delay in responding! Sound VERY much like the paint is far too thick. Watch our paint prep video here for tips on how to prepare it: ua-cam.com/video/eQAWW3cUT2c/v-deo.htmlsi=eVaF98n752-wZBOT&t=101
With the noise of a spray booth sucking the air through the filter, I have no chance of detecting slight changes in the sound of my airbrush! And that’s without those moments when the compressor kicks in. All this noise does not make airbrushing a relaxing part of the model making hobby.
Ah but you must find the centre. Focus on your airbrush, and allow your mind to be like water. Then, you will hear the sounds of atomisation, and feel the flow of the colour. I recommend watching Kung Fu Panda for more instruction. Seriously though, you don't need an air compressor or a spray booth THAT loud to power an airbrush... but if your rig is really loud, then pay attention to how fast the paint starts to flow when you get on the trigger - how quickly it begins to move - this should be instant. As soon as it is not, take a quick glance at your needle tip. That's another reliable way of detecting a bit of colour drying on the needle tip. Hope that helps you to relax more whilst airbrushing!
Controllo sempre a fine lavoro guardando il flusso controluce che esca senza ostacoli. Ovviamente dopo aver pulito tutto. Io nel mio infinity la protezione ago quando lavoro la vado sempre a rimuovere
BRUH!!! I WILL NEVA' (Cuz I want to sound fancy) wipe wet paint off a model. Not that I disagree with the principle, but due to the fact that it has never worked for me, and only lead to damage..
Yes, it's risky! I hope that I made that clear in the video - you have to be super confident that what's under the model is properly cured and/ or sealed in.
Thanks for the videos. I have a couple of quick questions about cleaning between colours. In one of Squidmar’s Videos he changes colours by forcing water with a squeeze bottle down the cup, while operating the airbrush. Is this something that is safe to do with the airbrush or could it cause problems if done incorrectly? The video is (ua-cam.com/video/BLOT1Jkq9wk/v-deo.html at 32:34.) I have seen another person clean acrylic varnish out of the airbrush with hot water. Is this something that is effective or not worth doing because not necessary / damaging?
Hey there - love the user name by the way... regarding Emil's video - no problem with "pressure washing" at all - go ahead. The hot water thing I've heard before. As I've said in other videos, remember that airbrushes are made from elements from the Earth's crust - hot water isn't going to touch them at all! No worries :-) BUT the hassle of boiling water to make it hot etc etc - no way - too much trouble! No benefit to using it, and lots of hassle. Keep it simple - use the cleaner recommended for use with whatever paint product you're trying to clean and spray it through. That's all you ever have to do. So many people trying to make it complicated, and I really have no idea why :-) perhaps it's to try to make the "this one trick" clickable video - I don't know :-) but honestly, keep it simple, use cleaning and thinning products from the same manufacturer as whatever paint you're using at the time, and life will be excellent!
I have a little self-heating cup that plugs into the wall just for airbrushing. I push the button for the desired temperature (1 setting below boiling) and use a dropper to get it out. 1 dropper of hot water and scrub with a q-tip, another dropper of hot water to flush, a little bit of airbrush cleaner to flush, and then one last dropper of water to flush the cleaner. That being said, it's a lot of steps, and after watching so many videos from Warrick, I've just started flashing with water and cleaner to see which way is faster... I'll know next week after putting some more time on my new Evo 2024 this weekend 🤓 I'll probably save my current method for the last cleaning of the brush at the end of a session...
@@NathanBest I just came across the Badger boss from 11yrs ago saying just frequently blow through cleaner like you have OCD (my words) and you'll never need to take it apart. Sounds good to me. Perhaps a little careful backflushing if required.
@border304 I'll try that too! I *very* rarely need to take them apart... I think twice in the last year. Flushing seems to work just fine, unless I let it sit too long 😵
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Warwick, I love that you are doing these videos and making the stellar products that you all do. You are producing airbrushes and items with thought, thought about people new to using an airbrush, or maybe older and haven’t used airbrushes in decades. This is the way to build a loyal customer base that will sing your praises to other people in their hobby. That creates more painters/customers. This is the way it should be. Good solid products, phenomenal customer service (I read the comment by the gentleman that had to remove his tip with pliers and damaged his Squidmar body) that goes above and beyond. I will continue to buy and use H&S products if for no other reason than this. But I also use them because they work and are easy to use. Keep doing what you all are doing, please. Hope everyone at H&S has a great 2024!
Thanks very much for the comment Bill!
These are fantastic vids for someone like me, transitioning into airbrushing. This is worth repeating - Short and to the point! I love how you go straight at the subject content clear, concise and not a bunch of blabbering filler talk.
I can't thank you enough. You might be the first person who has ever said that I talked, and got straight to the point :-) W
There are a lot of tips on the internet about airbrushing and some of it is by people who really know their stuff. The thing that makes this channel different then just handing out tips is that you guys teach us how to build good habits. That philosophy is also carried over to your products, the Ultra 2024 is a great example of that. Good habits makes a great airbrush and a great airbrush user. That’s the lesson I take away every time I watch your videos or pick up one of your H&S brushes. 👍
Ah really happy to hear that Michael - thank you for the comment!
I literally just got on UA-cam to find a fix for both these Issues I was having, I just bought an Ultra 2024 & I love it, no desire to use another Airbrush for anything other then general non detail work.
I have airbrushed for a number of years. I’ve used a variety of airbrushes from different manufacturers from cheaper models through to the infinity.
I’ve used them for painting scale models and they’ve all done a reasonable job with my skills at the time.
I have just received my new evolution cr+ 24.
WOW, what a beautifully engineered tool. The effort you guys have put into its development shows in every element of it. It’s hands down the best airbrush I’ve ever owned. A joy to use and it looks great too. So a big thank you for all of you at Harder and Steenbeck. Have a great 2024. 🍻
I know right, when I opened mine a bright light shown out of the box and I know I heard angels singing
Ah thank you so much Allan! Really appreciate your comment - I will pass it on to all the staff!
Thanks buddy!
I now check youtube daily for new videos from H&S. They are straight forward and take the complication out of airbrushing. I just got my 2024 Evolution and cannot wait to start painting with it. Keep the great educational videos coming.
Thanks Paul. Much appreciated.
Hi Warrick,
I have just ordered the Ultra 2024 and now i am sooking up all the info you provide within these videos to get a good start in my airbrush journy.
Thank you very much and greetings from Holland.
Thanks for joining us, Peter! W
Today I received my Ultra 2024. I’m reasonably new to the airbrushing world. Only played around a couple of times before today. I’m blown away with the quality of the products produced by H&S. these videos are fantastic. Super informative and inspiring. Love the passion you have. Can tell it’s truly genuine too. 👍🏻
ok, these videos are really helping airbrush beginners (like me) up and running in my mini painting. very much appreciated.
Thanks for your comment! Glad they are helping.
@@harderairbrush there is also a question that's been sitting at the back of my head, I have the ultra 2024, will the old ultra 0.2 needle+nozzle set work with it? And will there be future optional nozzle cap options for it?
Yes and yes :-)
Loving these videos. Very informative and confidence inspiring for a new airbrush painter.
Glad you're enjoying them and finding them helpful :-)
Thanks for another really helpful video. Watching these presentations has really given me the advice and guidance I need to have the confidence to enjoy using my H&S airbrushes.
Hey - thanks so much for that comment. Confidence is built on success, but also on learning to not fear failure. And always remember:
"If you hear a voice within you say 'you cannot paint,' then by all means paint, and that voice will be silenced." Vincent Van Gogh.
W
I am blown away by the information shared on your videos! Your recent video showing the Prismatic effects on the dragon opened up a whole new world of ideas for me! I spray Fiber Reactive dyes on turned wooden bowls, and have been doing that for a while now, and demonstrate this process to the local woodturning groups. As my confidence and skills increase, I want to add Acrylic to my options for decorative features, especially for carved features, and feel that I will now be able to just coast into that when the time comes. I have quite a few airbrushes, including the Ultra 2024. Thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks so much for this comment! Really happy that you're getting a lot out of the channel. Your application sounds really interesting!
I would love to see a video on lubricating the airbrush, and what parts to lubricate
I was thinking the same thing last night!
Everything that slides, doesn't mind a bit of lube. Our engineering fits and finishes are smooth enough that they don't NEED lube, but as we all know, a little lube never hurts. I wouldn't lube anything that touches paint, and generally, airvalve components don't really need it. The trigger system, the whole back end - everything to do with the "feel" of the trigger system - this is a good place to put a little lube. Recommend Iwata Superlube, as it generally seems to be the only one that doesn't make paint get grumpy.
Great bit of information warrick for all the newbies out there 👏
Thank you Sir!
Thank you fo your videos. You lower the barrier of entering into airbrushing so much because of them.
Thanks very much for the comment - that's exactly the goal! Please share with people who you think they will help!
I really appreciate these videos.
Thanks very much Robert!
I've watched quite a few of these H&S videos, and I have got to say how helpful and informative they are, and to compliment this chap on his presentation skills. Just excellent.
Thanks Mikey! Hope that they have been helpful. W
Some great gems of information here. Keep them coming guys!
We will do that Curt! Thanks for commenting.
I love my infinity, but wow the 2024 Evo just feel it's making me paint better, the new needle and trigger make me feel like a surgeon putting the exact amount in the right spot. Outstanding work , I can't even imagine how magnificent the infinity 2024 will be
Thanks very much for this comment! We are aiming for that adjective - MAGNIFICENT!
Hi
Me and my partner were looking for professional and beginners friendly airbrush and we have found your videos on UA-cam. They are very informative, professional and absolutely helpful, especially for someone starting to use airbrush.
My partner has bought today Ultra model. Cant wait for delivery 😅. My partner likes birds figurines and he will go this direction, I am felter, mainly 3D needle felted sculptures and I am going to try to paint them. So exciting 😂
Thank you for your video lessons, just perfect. I subscribed your channel.
Happy painting 🎉
Hey what an awesome message!! Thanks so much for taking the time to write and really glad that you like the channel. Thanks for joining us and keep us informed about your progress together! W
Thank you for your info and guidance on paint and care for Airbrush. No matter what I think I know ( dont use any citadel white 😂) or have been taught, there is always something to learn/ realise!
Thank you once again Warwick n thank you to all at H&S
Thanks very much for writing Ian! Appreciate you comment too.
I think that first question can also be answered by mentioning airbrushing technique.
1. Press down for air (away from the target)
2. Pull back for paint (away from target)
3. Check the pressure and flow of paint
4. Spray the paint on, continuous movement of the AB
5. Move the brush off the target and release.
Obviously this isn’t always possible, but I think it’s a good habit to develop
Thanks for your comment, BUT It's not always relevant to start the flow of paint off target. I'm concerned by your point 5... if you JUST release, then most likely, you will shut the air before the paint... this then results in a drop of paint sitting on your needle tip, ready to ruin your day the next time you press down. The ULTRA 2024 does prevent this happening by the way, even IF you do just release. The best habit is to make sure that you finish every stroke by pushing forward, and then releasing up. This way, your needle tip is always perfectly clean, and then there is zero risk in starting a painting stroke ON the target - something which we frequently need to do. Hope that helps! W
Thank you!
Amazing advice in this video. The needle tip protectors on the h&s airbrushes are really fantastic to work with.
Thanks very much for the comment!
Thanks Warwick when I first took this up I got tip dry for the first time ,thought I'd messed up the brush so stripped it completely then found out I couldn't put it back together so frantically face timed dred and he was busy so took me 2hrs to reassemble properly learning curve bro 😮😮😮😮😮
Behave yourself LOL! Did you watch the instructions??? Please do :-) link here ua-cam.com/video/H1mZfKxvnhM/v-deo.html
@@harderairbrush thanks bro 😉😉😉😉
Hey Warwick.Thanks for your very intresting vids. I just bought a H&S Evolution Silverline. How do you bubble back ( for mixing or cleaning ) it with the holes in the nozle? Thanking you for answering.
If you want the "today" solution, then a thick cloth which is damp works great. For something more elegant - it's coming.
Ver very informative. Thanks.
Our pleasure :-)
Another great video guys✌️👍💜😊
Thanks buddy!
Hello Warwick, just bought the H&S Evolution Silverline. How do you bubble back ( for mixing paint or cleaning ) the Evolution nozzle with the holes in it? Btw, love your vids, i learned a lot.
you have to take the needle guard off the older models if you wanna do that
Boy oh boy. New FAQ. Click, watch, enjoy.
The short video clip showing an application of your Tipps and infos is really helpful for not so expirienced painters to visualize the issue and solution.
Thanks
Now in other news…please produce more airbrushes :D Pk-Pro is already out of stock for the EvoCrPlus 2in1. And I „need“ to switching my old Evo CR Plus.
…I really do. Please tell that my wife if she asks. Absolutely necessary. 😂
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY! Got it!
@Warwick @Harder und Steenbeck your thoughts on ultrasonic cleaner for "mixing" acrylic paint in bottles ?
(17ml bottle in zipper bag, in sonic cleaner, run for 90 seconds, rest bottle some minutes, and viola smooth mixed paint)
I've never tried it, but it sounds like it could work...
When can we order the 2024 Infinity? Let's Goooooo! :) Great video - Cheers from Canada!
Coming soon... it's going to be really quite something!
Of course another great video and great advice about getting paint to a satin sheen, I would love to work at H&S
Thanks Mike.
Always a big thank you for the content.
Our pleasure!
Hi, I have been watching your videos and they have been so helpful, I bought the ultra 2024, I am very new, I am noticing that when I change the presets, sometimes nothing comes out, just air when I push down and pull back. So I end up just using the normal pull back and no presets :( I am not even sure I am using the right way to explain it, haha. It also appears that I can pull the trigger back a bit without pushing down and air trickles out. But maybe I have no idea what to expect when pushing and pulling the trigger and what it should look like or sound like when I change the presets. Cheers and thank you!!
Hello, what would happen if i were to use your needle cleaning kit for the 0.15mm nozzle? The needle kit says it works for the 0.2mm at the smallest. Would it damage my nozzle or just not clean it well?
It will not reach the mouth of the nozzle, and therefore it does not do the job well. HOWEVER, please understand that this is really a last resort. It is so easy to keep your nozzle clean with just liquid if you never let paint dry in it. Much safer, much faster, much cheaper, much easier!
@@harderairbrush thank you very much!
G"Day Warwick, am enjoying H&S content (keep it coming), just wondering how you are addressing the various naysayers out there that comment on Trigger response with the Infinity - i myself have not experienced this as i adjust the Airbrush to suit me. Anyway thanks and keep up the good work.
Honestly, the trigger response could do with improving, which was the first goal which we set ourselves to fulfil with the 2024 airbrushes. You will feel a very real difference on the new airbrushes. There's too much great work out there to say that the previous models had a "problem" but it's true to say that we could improve them there, and that's exactly what we've done. Personally, I'm super happy with the results and the reviews around UA-cam are coming in with the same opinion. I would go so far as to say that I believe that the 2024 H&S trigger response is now at the pinnacle of what's available today.
I just bought an Ultra and I am entirely new to airbrushing. I can’t figure out what size connector I need to fit the hose I have! Any suggestions?
Thanks for the help! Really looking forward to starting with my airbrush
Hey Matt! Do watch the ULTRA instructional video that the QR code goes to which came in your box... that covers how to get hooked up. The airbrushes all come with a quick connector, BUT you probably don't have that on your hose - just unscrew the quick connector and your hose will most likely go straight on. Most hoses now are 1/8bsp and this is what our airbrushes connect to. If your hose isn't that, any air hose with a 1/8bsp female end will work. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush this is fantastically helpful! Thanks!
Any chance the 2024 Evolution will be sold on Amazon US??????
Definitely. Once our inventory levels catch up with demand, it'll be there. In the meantime, check with our site and with Spraygunner.
Hi Warwick, some feedback for the assembly line if I may. I recently received my Squidmar Black Evo 2024 and found the needle nozzle was so tight I had to use pliers to unbreak the seal. This has resulted in the Black paint being chipped arround the nozzle area. If the nozzles can be put on with hand tight pressure, this would help. I have Neuropathy in both hands so I can no longer loosen things with my hands as I have lost a lot of my grip. Anything to help in this regard would be very much appreciated. Cheers Steve
Hey buddy - so sorry to head that! I can assure you that ALL our air caps are always put on only with hands. We do not use a tool to do that in factory for precisely this reason. However, I'm really sad to read this, and so we would like you to get in touch please. Email me on wjs@harder-airbrush.de - I would like to send you a new body for your airbrush so that you don't have that damage to that beautiful finish as a result of this difficulty, and we will also throw in a beautiful set of soft nosed pliers to help you with your Neuropathy without causing any damage in the future. I will also have our CNC room create a tool for you to use for taking your head on and off without needing to resort to pliers, but will enable you to develop enough torque even if you have grip issues. I've thought about what you need and I have already created the design - we can make it within two weeks for you - please get in touch. Many thanks, W
@@harderairbrushand this is one of the main reasons why I will continue to buy H&S products. Taking care of your customers in this day and age has been lost. H&S continues to take care of its customers. Thank you so much for going above and beyond! I cant wait to get my hands on my Squidmar black when I get back home!
@@harderairbrush thank you so much for your most generous offer, which has blown me away. I will ping you an email.
Thank you Warwick and the rest of the team @H&S 👍
Our pleasure!
@@harderairbrush Hi Warwick did you receive my email OK?
Cheers Steve
Hi Warwick. What is the difference between using an fPC valve vs. just adjusting air pressure? When would I prefer one over the other? Thanks!
Hey Andrew... it's just convenience and precision, but only necessary to get the fPC if you use air pressure adjustment frequently, and for me, only necessary when you really want to explore low pressure effects. Having the air pressure adjustment so near to the aircap allows you to set the pressure much more precisely and find your desired pressure much faster with the fPC than with the regulator. And of course, you can do it more frequently and much faster, as it's right there on the airbrush. I really like it because it doesn't interrupt the creative process. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush Thanks!
Could you make a video on how to paint and shade white with the airbrush? I've got a commander shadowsun for my tau I need to tackle
Thanks for the suggestion David... did you check Cult of Paint's channel for that? They might already have something...
@@harderairbrush never heard of them to be honest
My painting level tends to be just above battle ready, so I lose interest in the longer video formats for painting so these q&a vids have been really good for me
Actually they just did a great tutorial just for this...
ua-cam.com/video/h8p-kFRsf10/v-deo.html
Very interesting 👍
Thank you! Hope it's helpful.
I have a question. I purchased the new Ultra and the new Eclipse. Both are incredible airbrushes. Some of the paints I use are lacquer or alcohol based (Mr Paint, Mr Surfacer, Tamiya, AK Real Colors). Because of the harsher products used to clean these paints from your airbrush, I am afraid to run them through my Ultra and Eclipse. I only use them in an old Iwata HP C Plus. Can I use these harsher solvent based paints in my new brushes and if so, what is your best way or best product to clean these paints with. Thanks for everything!!!!
Hey Tony - thanks for the question - I assume you mean EVOLUTION when you refer to the Eclipse :-) anyway, honestly, anything up to and including cellulose or toluene thinner is no problem for all the paint bearing parts. Try to keep it away from the airvalve though, as the very small o-ring in there is a little more sensitive, and should not need cleaning anyway, as it is purely air-bearing. So go ahead, use whatever you want. No worries.
Yes I did mean Evolution. See, this is what happens when someone walks into your office and starts asking questions about something totally unrelated to what you are doing! Thank you. I was concerned about the internal seals and the finish. @@harderairbrush
What frequency should you empty water from the tank of the compressor? In terms of hours spent airbrushing.
It depends on the humidity of where you are located. Best advice... After you're done, wait until the compressor has cooled, then do it. If you can't remember to do it after waiting, just do it at the end of the session. It's so fast and easy, that you might as well just do it each time. Never leave pressurised air in the tank, also...
I bought the Ultra 2024 and can't get it to spray on setting 3 for more than 5 secs with out having to cleaning the nib. I am using well thinned citadel paints
Hey there - take a look at Angel Giraldez' video about how to thin Citadel... Citadel is a bit of a unique case as they don't have an airbrush thinner... Angel has tried and tested lots and has found that the Tamiya X-20A thinner works great... I'm sure this will help.
One of the best things to help avoiding dried acrylic paint on the needle tip is to use a small amount of drying retarder - it will not prevent tip drying but i will give you a much longer time before that happens.
I really wish my experience matched that expectation but honestly, I've never used a retarder and found a significant different. However, glad you're finding that - might be different behaviours in different locations/ humidities. However, the habits described here will help whether it occurs earlier or later. Thanks for the comment!
@@harderairbrush Interesting! Experiences can vary - from my experience about 10-20% retarder about doubles the 'spray time'. However i use it together with a lot of thinner, maybe the combinations makes the difference? Ratio is about 5 x paint:3 x thinner:2 x retarder.
Cool as always 👍
Thanks!
Any idea when the next shipment of ultra 2024 will ship to the USA?
This week!
I would like to know how to practice without damaging the airbrush, I heard that food coloring is a good way to do it without risking damaging the airbrush since the cleaning after using these products can be done with just water, would be nice to know the best way to built that trigger control with no "risk"
Thanks in advance!
This is what I suggest people do when wanting to practice. Food coloring watered down to just see the tint works really well. Just spray on paper or cardboard and you can see it really well. Hope you have fun learning to airbrush!
Hey Diego... thanks for the question. Firstly, there's no risk of "damage" with any paint really... no paint is going to damage a solid metal airbrush ;-)
It's more that you have to learn how to handle the airbrush whilst cleaning it - please watch our various videos on this topic, as it's way easier than most people make it out to be, honestly!
Food colouring is great because you can paint and paint and practice the control of the airbrush. However, painting with acrylics etc needs additional skills, specifically avoiding tip dry and therefore clogging. The interesting thing with food colouring is that you can practice control without needing to learn the other things. However, eventually you need to learn those other things too. But please don't think that using real paint carries the risk of damage - not true if you have good habits on how to clean - if you do it the right way, it's super easy and fast. Watch any of our painting process videos and you'll see them. Very simple! Hope that helps. Also remember that food colouring is super thin and so it flows faster than acrylics, for example. So whatever trigger control you learn with food colouring, will need a bit of adjustment when you move to acrylic. One way to using food colouring and getting a more representative experience is to use your food colouring at more like 18psi to slow it down a bit :-)
Hi, i have trouble spraying very fine lines or small areas with white acrylic paint, i see a lot of dusting. If I thin the paint any more i cant go near, because the paint will be runny and then I am in spiderwebbing territory, If i increase PSI I get the same effect. Could you help, please? Thank you!
White is like the building jump in the Matrix. Fact. No-one gets it the first time, even The One. Firstly, you need a really good white. If you're struggling and struggling, then you might not be using a good one. I don't know all the good ones, but the ones that I haven't struggled with are: Vallejo Game Air, Tamiya, Golden, Createx Illustration, Pro-Color, to name a few. Generally speaking for fine stuff, try thinning not so much, and DROPPING the pressure a bit. The feel on the trigger is dramatically different, but dropping the pressure and thickening the paint a bit helps the opacity, and with the somewhat decreased atomisation, it also helps a bit to sharpen up the linework... pay close attention to keeping your needle tip clean though. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush Thank you very much! I am on my way to the workshop to try it out!
Let us know how you got on!
@@harderairbrush thanks! This helped, i am using schminke aero color supra white, it feels better than vallejo air but i already ordered pro-color to try that out. The line is not as clean as with normal colors but I can work with this, mainly I am using it for osl and volumetric highlights so the second coat of color hides qny imperfections! 😁
I can't wait to get my new 2024 Squidmar Evolution Black!
Thanks for joining us! We anticipate that we'll be up to date with all of those within the next week and a bit... sorry for the delay - after that we'll be fulfilling them from stock!
Hi, I would like to get into airbrushing for warhammer. Was wondering if somone could make an educated reccomendation on what airbrush i should get. The cheap basic one I already have can prime and base. I'm more or less wondering between the 2024 harder and steenbeck releases, cause you have a YT channel helping people use your product. But I can't really tell the differences aside from price and some features mentioned on the site about the Ultra. I like the paint flow controls thing on the Ultra (e.g base, hilight, highlight 2) , and that it can be interchanged with parts from the infinity to get more details, haven't found anywhere that just sells those parts to do that though. Is better detail achievable with the evolution? Is there a new infinity brush also coming out that blows everything out of the water? What's the difference between the brushes are the prices differences worth it?
I like the controlled zenithl highlight style tutprials of cult of paint. But I also like the airbrush styles of the likes of Sergio calvo, squidmar, and angel giraldez.
I live in Australia, as far as I'm aware there aren't painting classes I can attend so depend on youtube tutorials to learn from.
Cheers for any advice.
Hey buddy - thanks very much for reaching out! I hope that some others will also comment and give advice. Have you watched the ULTRA Painting Process video on our channel? If you like that method of painting, then the ULTRA 2024 would be a great choice. If you already have good control of the double action trigger then probably the EVOLUTION 2024 is a better choice.
With regard to the various artists that you mention - all great - for example, take a look at Angel's latest video - it is shot using the ULTRA system.
Spare parts and upgradeability - this is a feature of H&S generally, and with all the new items and parts coming out it will admittedly take a little while to populate into the various dealer outlets and so on, but I'm sure that everything will be easily available soon, and of course as things are released, you'll always find them on our shop at www.harderairbrush.com
I do know that Cult of Paint DID come to Australia, so look out for their next trip - and actually I think Emil came as well recently, so it can and does happen!
For me, if you're already confident with basing and priming, either the ULTRA or the EVOLUTION 2024 will work great for you. Whilst you can upgrade them with Infinity heads etc, there are other things on the new Infinity which are unique to it. But honestly, our airbrushes are designed to help people progress, and I would recommend taking the one which is the appropriate stage for your painting journey. Not obligatory of course, but it does help pave the road and make it smoother! Hope that helps!
@harderairbrush thank you for the fast and thorough response. Yes, i have seen the videos. I have a couple additional quick questions. Can the Ultra provide good results for volumetric highlighting? Can the evolution also be adjusted to control the paint flow?
Cheers
Hey buddy - the answers to both of your questions, is yes.
@harderairbrush do you plan to release a new infinity brush soonish?
I would love to have more information about the 2024 Evolution -- specifically, your claim that the .28 nozzle is compatible with a .2 mm needle. You claim that the resulting lines are even finer than before. This seems counter-intuitive, and I've yet to see an online demonstration. Would the principle work across the board? What about placing a .3 mm needle in a .35 mm nozzle? I have an old Paasche VL, and I've never attempted to put a (cheap, commonly available) .5 needle into that gun's .55 nozzle.
Hey buddy... no that principle is unlikely to work across the board. Firstly, technically, it's more correct to describe needles as "designed for the 0.28mm nozzle" rather than 0.28mm needle, as that 0.28mm exists along a taper, whereas the nozzle can clearly be described as 0.28mm because that's the factual size of the aperture. The interaction between the needle and the nozzle is not really the critical aspect of what dictates fineness of spray. It's actually much more the relationship and the interaction between the needle tip, where is sits at a point in space relative to the airflow shape and focus that's coming out of the aircap. That is really the critical thing, and where the design focus is. Now bear in mind that the needle is a moving thing, and then you understand the design challenge a little better! It has to fulfil the job of acting as a flow control valve on the paint, as well as interacting with the airflow in a positive manner to influence atomisation/ detail etc. So if you put a random needle into another airbrush, you might discover something that the manufacturer didn't but most likely you won't. Not saying it isn't possible though! But you might spend a lot of money without results...
With regard to your Paasche - I am a fan of the old VL! It was actually my first airbrush. Personally, I never used the #1 set-up much - I preferred the #3 set-up - even for detail. I just found it overall friendlier to use, and 95% as good for detail as the #1. A very nice compromise, that head, actually.
So in summary, we didn't just "put a 0.2mm needle into a 0.28mm nozzle"... we designed a new system of needle/ nozzle/ aircap optimised for detail work with today's paints, and this is the result. It's a system, not a parts bin special :-)... hope that helps!
Thanks for the detailed response, although I'm still not sure about the new system. I'm sure we'd all like to see the Evolution's fine line capabilities demonstrated. Incidentally: You got detail out of a VL3? You must be a god. Back in the day, I was pretty proud to get fine lines out of a VL1. (One had only about ten seconds of working time before the tip clogged.)
Yes, it's true - the VL1 was a bit tricky that way, as was the V1, in my opinion. But I was very fond of the VL3 and the V2... I actually developed a custom aircap and needle shape for both of those back in the day, which I used to make by hand. Fun times.
Why do I get paint splatter when I push the lever forward but no paint when I pull back? I have had this even after I flush the brush through!
Please help it’s driving me nuts
Hi John - sorry for the delay in responding! Sound VERY much like the paint is far too thick. Watch our paint prep video here for tips on how to prepare it:
ua-cam.com/video/eQAWW3cUT2c/v-deo.htmlsi=eVaF98n752-wZBOT&t=101
With the noise of a spray booth sucking the air through the filter, I have no chance of detecting slight changes in the sound of my airbrush! And that’s without those moments when the compressor kicks in. All this noise does not make airbrushing a relaxing part of the model making hobby.
Ah but you must find the centre. Focus on your airbrush, and allow your mind to be like water. Then, you will hear the sounds of atomisation, and feel the flow of the colour. I recommend watching Kung Fu Panda for more instruction.
Seriously though, you don't need an air compressor or a spray booth THAT loud to power an airbrush... but if your rig is really loud, then pay attention to how fast the paint starts to flow when you get on the trigger - how quickly it begins to move - this should be instant. As soon as it is not, take a quick glance at your needle tip. That's another reliable way of detecting a bit of colour drying on the needle tip. Hope that helps you to relax more whilst airbrushing!
Thank you for your reply, much appreciated. Rest assured, I will persevere. Looking forward to seeing more info on the 2024 Evolution.
Controllo sempre a fine lavoro guardando il flusso controluce che esca senza ostacoli. Ovviamente dopo aver pulito tutto. Io nel mio infinity la protezione ago quando lavoro la vado sempre a rimuovere
Buone idee - grazie per il tuo commento!
❤❤
BRUH!!! I WILL NEVA' (Cuz I want to sound fancy) wipe wet paint off a model. Not that I disagree with the principle, but due to the fact that it has never worked for me, and only lead to damage..
Yes, it's risky! I hope that I made that clear in the video - you have to be super confident that what's under the model is properly cured and/ or sealed in.
Thanks for the videos.
I have a couple of quick questions about cleaning between colours. In one of Squidmar’s Videos he changes colours by forcing water with a squeeze bottle down the cup, while operating the airbrush. Is this something that is safe to do with the airbrush or could it cause problems if done incorrectly?
The video is (ua-cam.com/video/BLOT1Jkq9wk/v-deo.html at 32:34.)
I have seen another person clean acrylic varnish out of the airbrush with hot water. Is this something that is effective or not worth doing because not necessary / damaging?
Hey there - love the user name by the way... regarding Emil's video - no problem with "pressure washing" at all - go ahead. The hot water thing I've heard before. As I've said in other videos, remember that airbrushes are made from elements from the Earth's crust - hot water isn't going to touch them at all! No worries :-) BUT the hassle of boiling water to make it hot etc etc - no way - too much trouble! No benefit to using it, and lots of hassle. Keep it simple - use the cleaner recommended for use with whatever paint product you're trying to clean and spray it through. That's all you ever have to do. So many people trying to make it complicated, and I really have no idea why :-) perhaps it's to try to make the "this one trick" clickable video - I don't know :-) but honestly, keep it simple, use cleaning and thinning products from the same manufacturer as whatever paint you're using at the time, and life will be excellent!
I just watched that video too. My Ultra 2024 is expected delivery on Monday.
I have a little self-heating cup that plugs into the wall just for airbrushing. I push the button for the desired temperature (1 setting below boiling) and use a dropper to get it out. 1 dropper of hot water and scrub with a q-tip, another dropper of hot water to flush, a little bit of airbrush cleaner to flush, and then one last dropper of water to flush the cleaner.
That being said, it's a lot of steps, and after watching so many videos from Warrick, I've just started flashing with water and cleaner to see which way is faster... I'll know next week after putting some more time on my new Evo 2024 this weekend 🤓
I'll probably save my current method for the last cleaning of the brush at the end of a session...
@@NathanBest I just came across the Badger boss from 11yrs ago saying just frequently blow through cleaner like you have OCD (my words) and you'll never need to take it apart. Sounds good to me. Perhaps a little careful backflushing if required.
@border304 I'll try that too! I *very* rarely need to take them apart... I think twice in the last year. Flushing seems to work just fine, unless I let it sit too long 😵
I know nothing about airbrushing. But I do know it's "too" much paint.
That is a very useful comment, thank you to you too 😂 (correction made)
@@harderairbrush You're welcome. My Ultra 2024 is scheduled for delivery on Monday. Been enjoying your videos. Thank you.