Looks like you forgot to put the large o-ring on the new filter. That is where you leak was. You will also have recover and tank fill issues if that o-ring is missing. Also, use the used oil bottle for draining the oil from the vacuum pump. I am a service technician for Robinair. Just trying to share some tips/tricks.
I think my machine's vacuum pump oil reservoir is accumulating used pag oil from vehicles when I recover. Have you heard of that? The vacuum pump oil became over filled and the oil was green with dye
I am also certified repair tech. He v did so forget the oring. Service tech was probaly on the way after that. Dye just gets into the oil not a your machine problem they all end up green. High pressure normal comes from this oring missing but excess weight issue is most likely a scale calibration issue and needs to be serviced by a technician
It may be that the 34788NI is slower than the older machines because the vacuum pump is smaller. The 34788NI Flyer lists the two stage pump specification at 1.5 cfm at 29.9 InHg (about 508 microns of Mercury, at sea level) which is rather poor performance (but adequate given the 1/4 inch lines) as compared to Robinair US domestic 115VAC midline vacuum pump 15500 (Red) 5 cfm at 35 Microns, and highline vacuum pump 15600 (Blue) 6 cfm at 15 Microns, both the 15500 and 15600 are two stage. I would consider the 15500 and the 15600 to be a good choice for automotive A/C. I say this because beyond the performance of the pump, the largest restriction is in the 1/4 inch lines that most rigs use. You can go to larger lines for evacuation and charge, like 1/2 inch, but then what you usually find is there is another restriction, like through the gauge set or the vacuum quick connectors, or the recovery machine manifolds that is now hindering flow an vacuum performance. The best way to pull a quick and deep vacuum is to use both high and low ports after recovery with 1/2 inch lines directly to the vacuum pump (like the 15500) through valves with max hose length of three feet. Then on the low side put a tap for an electronic micron vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum and test for leaks after achieving the vacuum level desired and turning off the valves. The advantage of the 34788NI is in recovery of non-contaminated refrigerant (which includes oil), which is required by the EPA for R134a, and that once you set up the machine it's function is largely automated with charging with engine off on the high side. However, sometimes you would not want to use the 34788NI due to suspected contamination of refrigerant or it does not work well with an A/C flush procedure. As said in the video, the machines gauge and weak pump are not ideal to check for leaks under vacuum. You would need a better stand-alone pump with a digital vacuum gauge to detect very small leaks.
That machine seems like a downgrade from the 34700z. Stupid for them to move the vacuum pump so you make a mess changing the oil, and that ridiculous serial number filter Orwellian system. If it can "lock out" it is not your machine. As for the compressor, mine was worn out but I was able to get an equivalent replacement for less than 300 dollars, just had to do some soldering.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I picked up a brand new Danfoss RL90TE/RA19865 from refricenter here that had in inventory for 280.00. Just had to reuse the compression fittings and solder them on the new compressor.
Please do a video filling up the a/c machine with refrigerant
Looks like you forgot to put the large o-ring on the new filter. That is where you leak was. You will also have recover and tank fill issues if that o-ring is missing. Also, use the used oil bottle for draining the oil from the vacuum pump. I am a service technician for Robinair. Just trying to share some tips/tricks.
Why does my machine tell me isv pressure sensor fault and tank excessive weight? Please help
I think my machine's vacuum pump oil reservoir is accumulating used pag oil from vehicles when I recover. Have you heard of that? The vacuum pump oil became over filled and the oil was green with dye
I am also certified repair tech. He v did so forget the oring. Service tech was probaly on the way after that. Dye just gets into the oil not a your machine problem they all end up green. High pressure normal comes from this oring missing but excess weight issue is most likely a scale calibration issue and needs to be serviced by a technician
what is the common cause if the machine gets stuck in 'clearing the low side'? Thanks, Ken
What oil does the compressor take ?
It may be that the 34788NI is slower than the older machines because the vacuum pump is smaller. The 34788NI Flyer lists the two stage pump specification at 1.5 cfm at 29.9 InHg (about 508 microns of Mercury, at sea level) which is rather poor performance (but adequate given the 1/4 inch lines) as compared to Robinair US domestic 115VAC midline vacuum pump 15500 (Red) 5 cfm at 35 Microns, and highline vacuum pump 15600 (Blue) 6 cfm at 15 Microns, both the 15500 and 15600 are two stage.
I would consider the 15500 and the 15600 to be a good choice for automotive A/C. I say this because beyond the performance of the pump, the largest restriction is in the 1/4 inch lines that most rigs use. You can go to larger lines for evacuation and charge, like 1/2 inch, but then what you usually find is there is another restriction, like through the gauge set or the vacuum quick connectors, or the recovery machine manifolds that is now hindering flow an vacuum performance.
The best way to pull a quick and deep vacuum is to use both high and low ports after recovery with 1/2 inch lines directly to the vacuum pump (like the 15500) through valves with max hose length of three feet. Then on the low side put a tap for an electronic micron vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum and test for leaks after achieving the vacuum level desired and turning off the valves.
The advantage of the 34788NI is in recovery of non-contaminated refrigerant (which includes oil), which is required by the EPA for R134a, and that once you set up the machine it's function is largely automated with charging with engine off on the high side. However, sometimes you would not want to use the 34788NI due to suspected contamination of refrigerant or it does not work well with an A/C flush procedure.
As said in the video, the machines gauge and weak pump are not ideal to check for leaks under vacuum. You would need a better stand-alone pump with a digital vacuum gauge to detect very small leaks.
Well said, thanks for your input!
Awesome video thank you.
Thanks for watching!
How do you fix excess tank weight?
mine has an excessive tank weight message and I can't move past that message. how do I fix this?
My machine has that message too.Ho do I fix it?
Where is the internal memory battery located?
ua-cam.com/video/YvNtQp-YR4o/v-deo.htmlsi=VDLSfeoQFf_K4mc_
Does anyone know the size of the fitting of the black hose? Or does it need a specific tank? TIA
Are you talking about the supply hose to the tank? It should be 1/2” ACME thread to the tank. Hope this helps.
Hello, how can I get the filter?
I have included an Amazon link in the video description. Thanks for watching!
What oil goes in the machine?
You need vacuum pump oil, it is available at auto part stores.
my robinair 1234yf showing preasure decay test fail or leak test fail message help me what to do??
Did you solve it?
@@knulleriboy yes i solve it
@@artunes.1752 you mind telling me what the problem was? Pressure sensor or something else? How did you troubleshoot?
@@knulleriboy check this one with another hose....
@@artunes.1752 sorry not following, what do you mean?
My machine is stuck on the instruction LOW SIDE CLEAR IN PROGRESS
Please advise what to do
Mr b from augusta tech??
Very possible ;)
Need 5 digit password since my machine needs high pressure bleed off
Any luck getting it? I’m in need of it…..
Let me know if you found the code…. I need it now also
That machine seems like a downgrade from the 34700z. Stupid for them to move the vacuum pump so you make a mess changing the oil, and that ridiculous serial number filter Orwellian system. If it can "lock out" it is not your machine. As for the compressor, mine was worn out but I was able to get an equivalent replacement for less than 300 dollars, just had to do some soldering.
The 35700z was an amazing machine for sure. Much quicker operation than this one as well.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB That's great to know! Currently restoring them from a scrap pile.
@@chargermopar I have one with a bad compressor that I need to get fixed. I was quoted $800 so I’m a little hesitant.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I picked up a brand new Danfoss RL90TE/RA19865 from refricenter here that had in inventory for 280.00. Just had to reuse the compression fittings and solder them on the new compressor.
Use a coffee cup