Sorry to bust your bubble but not Genesis. One redbird is a modified LifeLike GP7 or GP9 and the other is a an old Front Range shell on one of their dummy chassis. The black one in the middle is another LifeLike model. I did an article for Model Railroading magazine about 20 years ago showing how to model these. The paint was sourced from a hobby shop in Roanoke that had their paint color matched to an original N&W drift card from the paint shop.
Dear Larry, two things; first on the 3/8” or 12mm plywood, think it would be a good idea to stiffen the sub roadbed with a nice and straight 1/2”x2” screwed underneath it, this will prevent sagging between the brackets. Second, on screwing screws with the battery tool, it’s just a tip; place the bit into the screw head until you’ll see the axial straight line, preferably from two angles. Then start screwing, when you hear the rattling of the bit in the screw head, your alignment is off, so you’ll need to adjust it. Either stop the action or slightly adjust the position of the battery tool while turning. In the end you’ll be able to feel the alignment with the screw and your screwing skills will significantly improve. Also, check either your screws or bits. Buy other screws the next time, or buy better bits. Those long bits seem handy, the disadvantage of ‘m is that they affect the balance of the machine, which makes the action more like a lever, with a higher chance of dancing through the screw head with the bit. Adding to that, the grey steel this bit has been made from, is on my ‘hard drive’ to never buy again. And believe me I’ve bought a lot of bits over the years. If you still find it hard to align the screw with the bit, maybe consider switching to Torx screws, they align much better than the old Phillips ones. Another great alternative is the Robertson bit. Just as a tip. Cheerio
Hiya Larry, that looks a nice strong link, no problems with sagging. Looking forward to seeing the trains running up the helix to the scenic section. Great job. Eddyxx
That would have created an abrupt change in slope going from a 1% slope to perfectly flat surface. This way, once I shave down the foam to meet the bridge surface it will create a very gentle transition.
Hi Larry, what was the app you used on your phone to measure the slope??? Great work on getting the Helix linked in, look forward to seeing some trains running on it soon.
hello larry !!! just watched your touring video of the layout and all looks great !!! i just love the fascia light you have added with the "small" table/writing area underneath. i am retired now and learn just tons of stuff from you !!! is the light battery or electrically powered ? this will be important on my pike (bprr from buffalo to pittsburgh) as there are some areas where lighting is a bit low.... also i want to provide writing areas at various sites without operators writing on the scenery... will use clip boards and your small table/writing area to solve this... keep up the videos, blessings to you, larry !!!
Do you mean the lights installed under the upper deck? If so those are individual LED light bulbs, 40W equivalent. I installed individual light sockets under the layout for each and they are about 2’ apart. I haven’t done a video on those because it requires working with 120VAC wiring which might create liability issues if someone fries themselves. Many guys these days are using LED light strips but be aware that they typically pull about 1 amp per meter of run which means several good sized power supplies for most layouts. On the Piedmont Southern, which has about 100’ of benchwork on each level, I would have had had to use at least 30 meters of strip requiring 30 amps of power.
no larry, i am talking about what looks like a small light (?) right next to your digitrax plug in plate... it has a what looks like a typical wall light switch plate which is white in color and what looks like a small lengthwise football shaped protrusion on it... i just assumed it was a small "night light" to light up the small (3" deep) ledge coming off your fascia. it looks like it points downward towards the top of the ledge area @@TheDCCGuy
larry... what i am talking about is on your "touring the piedmont southern" video from 3 years back at the 18:20/21:27 point of the video... there is a paint brush laying on the horizontal fascia with a voltmeter right there as well.... right next to your digitrax fascia mounted plug in plate there is what looks like a small courtesy light right there ( facing downward and is somewhat football shaped and is cut in half lengthwise) to light up that area... am i correct ? pretty neat i must say if it is !! i am just an old fart trying to learn more from you... hope this helps !!! denny
Actually that is an on/off switch, turns off all 120VAC power to the layout and everything plugged into it. The white plastic protrusion is a cover over the switch to prevent accidental shutoffs.
larry, thanks for the explanation... little covers are nice as i have 3 homemade "covers" on my pike as well, i worked as an industrial engineer for the department of energy for 31 years and we tend to call this type of thing a "fail safe". when using monitoring equipment for things like co/co2/o2/etc, you would need to press the off button for 3 seconds to get a shut-down of the monitor, an intentional choice !!! my boat has the same type of on/off button now and was placed just off the floor in the back of the boat,,, a friend accidentally hit the switch with his foot while reeling in a nice walleye and the entire boat shut down 14 miles out on lake erie near the canadian border !!! we added a partial cover there, too, larry !!! blessings to you my friend !!! @@TheDCCGuy
Larry glad to see the helix is completed I have 14 levels on my helix The bridge from the helix to the layout you have it below the foam how you planning to transition that
Why not just fasten the block of wood under the ply where it joins the foam section at the correct track level thus reducing the need to plane off the foam bed to make the transition?
Do you have a video of your intire layout? It looks like the upper level is at eye level and then drops down to desktop level then goes down the helix to staging at ?? level
I assume you use the foam to reduce noise, so what was the rational for not using any on the bridge and helix? Also, as a matter of interest, what thickness board and foam are you using? And what interval of support would you recommend for said thickness?
WHY DID NOT 2INCH BY 1INCH THAT FLAT RUN THE TRACK ON AS THINK RISE BOAD RAMP SIDE THAN CUT INTO FOAM TOP AS GOT LONG RUNING OVER LENGHT BEFORE HIT TOP OVER 98INCH IN DISTANCE
Anyone willing to help a new guy get started. I have lots of easy track and a few easy track turnouts non dcc. I just recently bought nce dcc system. Sadly have only the ability to set up my old dc trains at christmas time around the tree. I want to change it, but only place i could build is in the garage, but no room there. So I thought maybe a hoist system to hoist layout up out of the way by pulling it to the roof when not in use to use my garage. The boss wife would allow that. any ideas how to rig a system like that?
I have seen articles in Model Railroader magazine where this was done. The Dec 1983 issue has on article beginning on page 84 showing a layout hung from a family room ceiling and lowed using a pulley system.
I just wanted to let you know that you are my favorite UA-cam train guy. Thank you for all you do on here.
Wow, thanks!
hello larry it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks and i am enjoy yours video thanks larry friends randy
Dangit! you're always teasing me with those Genesis Redbirds front and center!
Sorry to bust your bubble but not Genesis. One redbird is a modified LifeLike GP7 or GP9 and the other is a an old Front Range shell on one of their dummy chassis. The black one in the middle is another LifeLike model. I did an article for Model Railroading magazine about 20 years ago showing how to model these. The paint was sourced from a hobby shop in Roanoke that had their paint color matched to an original N&W drift card from the paint shop.
they still look great!@@TheDCCGuy
Good video sir thanks for sharing.
Robert
Dear Larry, two things; first on the 3/8” or 12mm plywood, think it would be a good idea to stiffen the sub roadbed with a nice and straight 1/2”x2” screwed underneath it, this will prevent sagging between the brackets. Second, on screwing screws with the battery tool, it’s just a tip; place the bit into the screw head until you’ll see the axial straight line, preferably from two angles. Then start screwing, when you hear the rattling of the bit in the screw head, your alignment is off, so you’ll need to adjust it. Either stop the action or slightly adjust the position of the battery tool while turning. In the end you’ll be able to feel the alignment with the screw and your screwing skills will significantly improve. Also, check either your screws or bits. Buy other screws the next time, or buy better bits. Those long bits seem handy, the disadvantage of ‘m is that they affect the balance of the machine, which makes the action more like a lever, with a higher chance of dancing through the screw head with the bit. Adding to that, the grey steel this bit has been made from, is on my ‘hard drive’ to never buy again. And believe me I’ve bought a lot of bits over the years.
If you still find it hard to align the screw with the bit, maybe consider switching to Torx screws, they align much better than the old Phillips ones. Another great alternative is the Robertson bit. Just as a tip. Cheerio
Hiya Larry, that looks a nice strong link, no problems with sagging. Looking forward to seeing the trains running up the helix to the scenic section. Great job. Eddyxx
I’m wondering why you didn’t make the top of the bridge plywood the same level as the top of the foam.
That would have created an abrupt change in slope going from a 1% slope to perfectly flat surface. This way, once I shave down the foam to meet the bridge surface it will create a very gentle transition.
@TheDCCGuy : To eliminate the vertical curve?
Thank you for sharing. Very nice👍
Larry excellent progress, looking fantastic
Great, well we are gonna se trains go some where
Hi Larry, what was the app you used on your phone to measure the slope???
Great work on getting the Helix linked in, look forward to seeing some trains running on it soon.
That is iLevel from the iPhone app. There are a number of similar ones on the app store.
hello larry !!! just watched your touring video of the layout and all looks great !!! i just love the fascia light you have added with the "small" table/writing area underneath. i am retired now and learn just tons of stuff from you !!! is the light battery or electrically powered ? this will be important on my pike (bprr from buffalo to pittsburgh) as there are some areas where lighting is a bit low.... also i want to provide writing areas at various sites without operators writing on the scenery... will use clip boards and your small table/writing area to solve this... keep up the videos, blessings to you, larry !!!
Do you mean the lights installed under the upper deck? If so those are individual LED light bulbs, 40W equivalent. I installed individual light sockets under the layout for each and they are about 2’ apart. I haven’t done a video on those because it requires working with 120VAC wiring which might create liability issues if someone fries themselves. Many guys these days are using LED light strips but be aware that they typically pull about 1 amp per meter of run which means several good sized power supplies for most layouts. On the Piedmont Southern, which has about 100’ of benchwork on each level, I would have had had to use at least 30 meters of strip requiring 30 amps of power.
no larry, i am talking about what looks like a small light (?) right next to your digitrax plug in plate... it has a what looks like a typical wall light switch plate which is white in color and what looks like a small lengthwise football shaped protrusion on it... i just assumed it was a small "night light" to light up the small (3" deep) ledge coming off your fascia. it looks like it points downward towards the top of the ledge area @@TheDCCGuy
larry... what i am talking about is on your "touring the piedmont southern" video from 3 years back at the 18:20/21:27 point of the video... there is a paint brush laying on the horizontal fascia with a voltmeter right there as well.... right next to your digitrax fascia mounted plug in plate there is what looks like a small courtesy light right there ( facing downward and is somewhat football shaped and is cut in half lengthwise) to light up that area... am i correct ? pretty neat i must say if it is !! i am just an old fart trying to learn more from you... hope this helps !!! denny
Actually that is an on/off switch, turns off all 120VAC power to the layout and everything plugged into it. The white plastic protrusion is a cover over the switch to prevent accidental shutoffs.
larry, thanks for the explanation... little covers are nice as i have 3 homemade "covers" on my pike as well, i worked as an industrial engineer for the department of energy for 31 years and we tend to call this type of thing a "fail safe". when using monitoring equipment for things like co/co2/o2/etc, you would need to press the off button for 3 seconds to get a shut-down of the monitor, an intentional choice !!! my boat has the same type of on/off button now and was placed just off the floor in the back of the boat,,, a friend accidentally hit the switch with his foot while reeling in a nice walleye and the entire boat shut down 14 miles out on lake erie near the canadian border !!! we added a partial cover there, too, larry !!! blessings to you my friend !!! @@TheDCCGuy
Larry glad to see the helix is completed I have 14 levels on my helix The bridge from the helix to the layout you have it below the foam how you planning to transition that
I will use the sureform tool to cut a slope in the foam and create a transition to the horizontal portion of the layout.
👍👍👍
Larry have you had any problems with your old Tortoise Point Motors like those on the Biritish McKinley Layout?
What kinds of problems?
@@TheDCCGuy The wipers on the internal switches detach after extended use. Circuitron recommends reattaching them with micro screws and nuts.
Why not just fasten the block of wood under the ply where it joins the foam section at the correct track level thus reducing the need to plane off the foam bed to make the transition?
What is the white material that you are setting the roadbed on? It looks like sheetrock..
Do you mean the surface I attached the shelf brackets too? That is indeed the sheetrock of the wall.
Do you have a video of your intire layout? It looks like the upper level is at eye level and then drops down to desktop level then goes down the helix to staging at ?? level
That’s pretty much the layout. I still have another helix to build to go between the main and upper decks, plus an upper staging yard.
Can I ask what your helix gradient is please Larry
About 1.8-1.9%
I assume you use the foam to reduce noise, so what was the rational for not using any on the bridge and helix?
Also, as a matter of interest, what thickness board and foam are you using? And what interval of support would you recommend for said thickness?
I discussed all that in the previous videos on The Big Helix and a video #140 on Foam/No Foam, Does It Matter.
@@TheDCCGuy The hunt began, #130 where you're discussing making the boards, you detail the ply and foam thicknesses. thx
WHY DID NOT 2INCH BY 1INCH THAT FLAT RUN THE TRACK ON AS THINK RISE BOAD RAMP SIDE THAN CUT INTO FOAM TOP AS GOT LONG RUNING OVER LENGHT BEFORE HIT TOP OVER 98INCH IN DISTANCE
Sorry but this does not make any sense
Anyone willing to help a new guy get started. I have lots of easy track and a few easy track turnouts non dcc. I just recently bought nce dcc system. Sadly have only the ability to set up my old dc trains at christmas time around the tree. I want to change it, but only place i could build is in the garage, but no room there. So I thought maybe a hoist system to hoist layout up out of the way by pulling it to the roof when not in use to use my garage. The boss wife would allow that. any ideas how to rig a system like that?
I have seen articles in Model Railroader magazine where this was done. The Dec 1983 issue has on article beginning on page 84 showing a layout hung from a family room ceiling and lowed using a pulley system.
thank you@@TheDCCGuy
what is the radius in the helix?
Description says it's a 5' diameter helix.
There is a video #252 that discusses the design of the helix including the wood, track, slope, length, diameter, radius, etc.
Thank you@@TheDCCGuy
Never use a Philips screw head for Torx screws.
They’re not Torx, they ARE Phillips head.