What an excellent Video, beautifully prepared and presented as ever, very professional, thank you for providing us with these wonderful ‘how to’ Videos. Best Wishes keep safe.
Great video Larry. I'm really enjoying this series. I live in an apartment so a layout big enough for a helix is highly unlikely but just watching you work gives me valuable information concerning building a railroad project property. Thank you.
Larry, if you got a router, you could of course use a similar tremel construction to cut out the different sections from the plywood sheet. This, will also improve the accuracy of each section.
I would cut out the template as Larry did, and using the template to draw more pieces on a plywood sheet than a router trammel right on the plywood might conveniently allow. If, to get the maximum number of cuts, the trammel anchor point had to extend beyond the plywood sheet, using it could be cumbersome. My preference is based on having the advantage of a router table. I will be cutting the template from 1/4" sheet stock, sanding it to exact finished size. Then I'll draw as many segments as I can fit onto a sheet, even making smaller segments to get the most out of each sheet. Those will then be rough-cut. Then I'll mount the template atop each segment with double-sided tape, and using a pattern bit in my router table, finish them all to final size. I haven't used my Christmas present biscuit joiner yet, so I might try that, gluing segments together using biscuits and good, strong glue. If I find that results in poor joint stability I can always use a thin splice plate. I never imagined my shop would come in handy building a railroad when I first set it up.
Since the legs are twice the thickness of the bench framework, it makes far more sense to drill fasteners through the bench work into the legs, rather than your opposite approach. I used the same stock for my legs as I did for the framework, so it didn't matter.
I used a similar way to cut my circles when I built my 18 X 30 layout. I marked a 1 X 2 every two inches from 26 inches up to 38 inches from the center. I still use it for other projects too. It can be tedious if you do not know something about Math in general. Much needed for today's modeler.
Another great informative video that really shows how to do it properly 👍 thank you, I’m following these with great interest as I hope to build a multi deck layout and so will have to use helixes to get between levels. Keep these videos coming please 👍👍
Larry, great video. One question, when you attach the frame/ legs to the wall, does that not defeat the use of the adjustable feet? I am following along with great interest because I will soon start my benchwork and the helix is the first project.
The Canadian Canyons project layout was a MR feature several years ago and it was the subject of numerous videos on Model Railroader Video Plus, a subscription service. The videos are still available as past of the MR digital plan. His full sized template was all done by hand in a similar manner as mine except he used a yardstick with holes drilled in it i stead of setting up a trammel like I did.
Yes, I originally considered double tracking it but then reviewed my planned operating schedule and only found a couple of instances where two trains would need to use it at roughly the same time so it wasn’t worth the extra space and money. Track gets expensive and would require an extra 30 sections of flex-another $200 or more.
Larry, thank you for quick response. I am new to model railroading and at the ripe old age of 65, there is a lot to learn. your series has been invaluable. One more thing, How do you design a layout. I just don't want to copy someone else. Is there software out there that can help with this?
I have been using CadRail since about 1991 and find it great. I designed the Piedmont Southern with it and can take measurements from the plans, lay the track, and it comes out perfect. I suggest you get some of the Kalmbach track plan books and study them. Also if you can fond John Armstrong’s planning books they are an invaluable resource. Finally remember, just because you can do something doesn’t mean you should-keep it simple.
Hi Larry thanks for that enjoyed watching and looking forward to the next instalment. Hey Larry I was looking on another channel and on it was described a unit produced by NCE containing 4 bulbs and the channel showed how to produce your own at a fraction of the price. The unit was designed to absorb shorts on the track by lighting the bulb. I was wondering dos this do the same job as the snubber described on your channel?
Well done Larry, as usual, another interesting video. Personally I always use glue as well as screws to hold my woodwork together, but perhaps that's just over engineering. Your mention of plywood costs struck a chord as the same is true here in UK, and the quality is not as it was. I have found some industrial suppliers with good prices and quality, but I have to buy in large quantities. I would have enough plywood to build a helix for the full size railway.
Hi Larry, Great topic to cover and looking forward to the next installment. Wondering how the reach-in to the top deck will work, it's a fairly deep section already - will the helix will keep you further away from the corner? I had to pull the upper deck towards the aisle to keep it within reach. The handing of the helix also raises an interesting question - on the top deck I wanted the tracks to be on the aisle side (anti-clockwise heading down in your case) as this is a scenic level and the trains are in sight longer. This means the tracks on the lower deck emerge at the back - with limited space for the staging yard, the ladder is close to the helix but not along the aisle, which is not recommended. In n scale the reach to the turnouts is not ideal but has been manageable, but this dark place often sees trains which are heading up the helix run into turnouts that have not been lined properly. The signal department are now working on a way to kill track power until the route is properly set. Single deck in a bedroom was never going to be an option for a Class 1 mainline, so whatever problems we might face there is no escaping death, taxes, and two helixes.
Yes, it definitely would interfere with the ops in the Charlottesville industrial area above had I not made allowances for that. To deal with that I put magnets at each turnout for uncoupling cars and the turnouts are all controlled with Tortoise switch machines. In case of accidents I do have my Topside Creeper to crawl up on and retrieve cars and locos. The industries there will only be served by the Charlottesville Yard crew as they get time during their shift. This fits with my goal to prevent folks from reaching in and manhandling my locos and rolling stock by picking up cars and using coupler picks.
I have never even seen an N-scale electrofrog much less worked with one. However if they are the same as the HO scale version then I might be able to help. I prefer not to post my personal email address on the internet so please try asking your question here.
@@TheDCCGuy I guess the real question is if I am going to manually control the switches via a servo (not connected to the DCC system) and want to power the frogs for more reliable operation would there be a concern about shorts? I would follow the basic steps you show in (142) but the switch would not be connected to Blue Point turnout controllers or Tortoise machines. In this scenario where would I connect the "frog" wire? Is this even possible?
There may be some servos with a built in SPDT switch for powering frogs but I have not seen them. So that is your first job, find a servo with a built-in way to switch frog power. The other, and slightly more costly option is to use Frog Juicers or the Frog-AR that I showed on video # 250.
Will not sure about your question. The helix is the only way to get trains from one level to another. In this case from the staging yard up to the main deck.
What I ment was above the helix there is switching opportunities it looks to me like the helix will restrict the reach switching cars above the helix. That’s all I questioned. It is a great project you are doing
Yes, it definitely would interfere with the ops in the Charlottesville industrial area above had I not made allowances for that. To deal with that I put magnets at each turnout for uncoupling cars and the turnouts are all controlled with Tortoise switch machines. In case of accidents I do have my Topside Creeper to crawl up on and retrieve cars and locos. The industries there will only be served by the Charlottesville Yard crew as they get time during their shift.
Very helpful Larry thank you
Thank you for sharing. Very much enjoying this series. Plywood is all most gold these days. Appreciate the video👀.👍
What an excellent Video, beautifully prepared and presented as ever, very professional, thank you for providing us with these wonderful ‘how to’ Videos. Best Wishes keep safe.
Thank you Larry for sharing your idea on the helix I hope you have a great weekend and a safe week can’t wait to see next’s week show
Great video Larry. I'm really enjoying this series. I live in an apartment so a layout big enough for a helix is highly unlikely but just watching you work gives me valuable information concerning building a railroad project property. Thank you.
Larry, if you got a router, you could of course use a similar tremel construction to cut out the different sections from the plywood sheet. This, will also improve the accuracy of each section.
I would cut out the template as Larry did, and using the template to draw more pieces on a plywood sheet than a router trammel right on the plywood might conveniently allow. If, to get the maximum number of cuts, the trammel anchor point had to extend beyond the plywood sheet, using it could be cumbersome.
My preference is based on having the advantage of a router table. I will be cutting the template from 1/4" sheet stock, sanding it to exact finished size. Then I'll draw as many segments as I can fit onto a sheet, even making smaller segments to get the most out of each sheet. Those will then be rough-cut. Then I'll mount the template atop each segment with double-sided tape, and using a pattern bit in my router table, finish them all to final size.
I haven't used my Christmas present biscuit joiner yet, so I might try that, gluing segments together using biscuits and good, strong glue. If I find that results in poor joint stability I can always use a thin splice plate.
I never imagined my shop would come in handy building a railroad when I first set it up.
@@genebarfield6688 got some great experience with router bits and added copying wheels. Then you only need the trammel pivot once.
Since the legs are twice the thickness of the bench framework, it makes far more sense to drill fasteners through the bench work into the legs, rather than your opposite approach. I used the same stock for my legs as I did for the framework, so it didn't matter.
Hopping to se the next part
I used a similar way to cut my circles when I built my 18 X 30 layout. I marked a 1 X 2 every two inches from 26 inches up to 38 inches from the center. I still use it for other projects too. It can be tedious if you do not know something about Math in general. Much needed for today's modeler.
Great video Larry.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work...Lance.. maybe I'll try that in my shed that is 12 by 36 feet..hope it fits..
Larry The Helix is coming along the large compass is a great idea. Looking for the road bed to be added.
Another great informative video that really shows how to do it properly 👍 thank you, I’m following these with great interest as I hope to build a multi deck layout and so will have to use helixes to get between levels. Keep these videos coming please 👍👍
Larry, great video. One question, when you attach the frame/ legs to the wall, does that not defeat the use of the adjustable feet?
I am following along with great interest because I will soon start my benchwork and the helix is the first project.
If can interject... the adjustable feet are to make up for any gaps between the legs & floor due to the floor itself not being even. Cheers!
Great video, very helpful layout of the bench work. Do you have a link to David’s Canadian canyons video, I like see how he makes the templates.
The Canadian Canyons project layout was a MR feature several years ago and it was the subject of numerous videos on Model Railroader Video Plus, a subscription service. The videos are still available as past of the MR digital plan. His full sized template was all done by hand in a similar manner as mine except he used a yardstick with holes drilled in it i stead of setting up a trammel like I did.
Hi Larry, so you are only planning one track on the helix, basework framing looks great
Yes, I originally considered double tracking it but then reviewed my planned operating schedule and only found a couple of instances where two trains would need to use it at roughly the same time so it wasn’t worth the extra space and money. Track gets expensive and would require an extra 30 sections of flex-another $200 or more.
Larry, thank you for quick response. I am new to model railroading and at the ripe old age of 65, there is a lot to learn. your series has been invaluable. One more thing, How do you design a layout. I just don't want to copy someone else. Is there software out there that can help with this?
I have been using CadRail since about 1991 and find it great. I designed the Piedmont Southern with it and can take measurements from the plans, lay the track, and it comes out perfect. I suggest you get some of the Kalmbach track plan books and study them. Also if you can fond John Armstrong’s planning books they are an invaluable resource. Finally remember, just because you can do something doesn’t mean you should-keep it simple.
THANK YOU! Your insight has been invaluable, and I can now start this project with confidence.@@TheDCCGuy
Hi Larry thanks for that enjoyed watching and looking forward to the next instalment. Hey Larry I was looking on another channel and on it was described a unit produced by NCE containing 4 bulbs and the channel showed how to produce your own at a fraction of the price. The unit was designed to absorb shorts on the track by lighting the bulb. I was wondering dos this do the same job as the snubber described on your channel?
These are called ballast lamps and I did a video (#109) on them some time ago. They simply prevent shorts from reaching your booster.
Well done Larry, as usual, another interesting video. Personally I always use glue as well as screws to hold my woodwork together, but perhaps that's just over engineering. Your mention of plywood costs struck a chord as the same is true here in UK, and the quality is not as it was. I have found some industrial suppliers with good prices and quality, but I have to buy in large quantities. I would have enough plywood to build a helix for the full size railway.
Larry,
Great Project.
Does your template account for the rise of the roadbed elevation in the quarter turn?
No, but a mathematician wrote in a comment that the slope effect at this angle would be minimal.
Hi Larry,
Great topic to cover and looking forward to the next installment.
Wondering how the reach-in to the top deck will work, it's a fairly deep section already - will the helix will keep you further away from the corner? I had to pull the upper deck towards the aisle to keep it within reach.
The handing of the helix also raises an interesting question - on the top deck I wanted the tracks to be on the aisle side (anti-clockwise heading down in your case) as this is a scenic level and the trains are in sight longer. This means the tracks on the lower deck emerge at the back - with limited space for the staging yard, the ladder is close to the helix but not along the aisle, which is not recommended. In n scale the reach to the turnouts is not ideal but has been manageable, but this dark place often sees trains which are heading up the helix run into turnouts that have not been lined properly. The signal department are now working on a way to kill track power until the route is properly set.
Single deck in a bedroom was never going to be an option for a Class 1 mainline, so whatever problems we might face there is no escaping death, taxes, and two helixes.
Yes, it definitely would interfere with the ops in the Charlottesville industrial area above had I not made allowances for that. To deal with that I put magnets at each turnout for uncoupling cars and the turnouts are all controlled with Tortoise switch machines. In case of accidents I do have my Topside Creeper to crawl up on and retrieve cars and locos. The industries there will only be served by the Charlottesville Yard crew as they get time during their shift. This fits with my goal to prevent folks from reaching in and manhandling my locos and rolling stock by picking up cars and using coupler picks.
Question, I was watching an early video on building two tables and connecting them, HOW do you separate the tables once you have laid track across?
Remove the bolts and pull them away from each other.
Thank you for your quick response. What about the tracks? Are they precut along the seam? Removable?
Watch video #156.
Is there a way to contact you off-line to run a PECO Electrofrog N scale turnout question by you?
I have never even seen an N-scale electrofrog much less worked with one. However if they are the same as the HO scale version then I might be able to help. I prefer not to post my personal email address on the internet so please try asking your question here.
@@TheDCCGuy I guess the real question is if I am going to manually control the switches via a servo (not connected to the DCC system) and want to power the frogs for more reliable operation would there be a concern about shorts? I would follow the basic steps you show in (142) but the switch would not be connected to Blue Point turnout controllers or Tortoise machines. In this scenario where would I connect the "frog" wire? Is this even possible?
There may be some servos with a built in SPDT switch for powering frogs but I have not seen them. So that is your first job, find a servo with a built-in way to switch frog power. The other, and slightly more costly option is to use Frog Juicers or the Frog-AR that I showed on video # 250.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for the responses. I've got some more investigating to do!
The helix project looks very good but have a question. Seems to me the it will impede the ops on the upper end reach. Great vid so far
Will not sure about your question. The helix is the only way to get trains from one level to another. In this case from the staging yard up to the main deck.
What I ment was above the helix there is switching opportunities it looks to me like the helix will restrict the reach switching cars above the helix. That’s all I questioned. It is a great project you are doing
Yes, it definitely would interfere with the ops in the Charlottesville industrial area above had I not made allowances for that. To deal with that I put magnets at each turnout for uncoupling cars and the turnouts are all controlled with Tortoise switch machines. In case of accidents I do have my Topside Creeper to crawl up on and retrieve cars and locos. The industries there will only be served by the Charlottesville Yard crew as they get time during their shift.
Larry how did you cut that cardboard so smoothly?
With a box cutter and a steady hand.