This is a great video. I feel like some of your commenters have made you a little "cranky" lately, so I'd like to offer a positive comment. I learned something from this video. I didn't know if the wheel bearings on these old Mopars were lubricated by gear oil, which would have been convenient, or sealed and had it's own grease. Thanks to your video I now know I need to make sure they have plenty of their own grease. I also learned about how that button is only used with a sure grip unit. My point is, that I am LEARNING from your videos. Learning how to work on my own Mopes. This means that I keep my Mopars out on the road driving where they should be, not stuck on jack stands out of service. I don't know about you, but I like seeing old cars out on the road being used. It seems the public does too. So if it means anything to you, your videos are helping to keep other people's Mopars on the road too. Thank you.
Dude I barely post videos of my cars on my channel and I attract every broke hater on UA-cam for some reason. He’s got more patience than I do that’s for sure
Thanks for bringing Arizona to light. It's still in the 100s. Supposed to drop into the 90s this week. My old man's 68 Satellite is a 383 peg leg. Was originally a 318 2 bbl.
Love the fun of low gears! Especially with a 4 speed! I had 3:91's in my 72 340 cuda 4 speed and it was a blast, I can only imagine how those 4:30's would feel!👍
🎶Gear chunks keep falling on my head.🎶 😁 In all seriousness, thanks for another great video! Tech tip for seals. Pack the spring side of the seal with grease. If you are worried about grease contamination, use petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Vaseline has a low melting point and mixes well with a vast majority of oils and fuels.
On those lip seals with the tension spring, I always pack the inside part of the seal (where the spring lives) with grease before driving it into whatever. That will keep the spring from jumping out. Anyway, good stuff man! Keep up the great work Jamie, and stay cool, man!
"I don't wrench on cars on this channel." lol Also I always use transmission assembly grease to fill the back side of a seal before installation. That prevents the garter spring from popping out like it did for you. Learned that from a very old transmission guy.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm just bustin' your balls :P For serious though, try the grease trick next seal you put on. Not just axle seals, hasn't failed me yet.
Oh yeah. Charger isn’t going anywhere. Haha. Really need to order a new radiator for it. Of course now the good weather is leaving us. So it might not be out for a while.
I was lucky my 318 '71 Challenger came with an 8-3/4 rear (741 small pinion 2.76:1). I could have got stuck with the tiny one. I finally nabbed a set of new 3.55 gears, and I bought a NOS cone type sure grip decades ago when they cheap; wish I'd bought more. The clutch type is better but odds are I won't wear out the cone type... The 3.55 will go in once the OD transmission is installed. I think you said 489 case and described 742 pinion. I've got a 'spare' 489 for use with a higher gear someday and planned on using a crush sleeve eliminator kit but given the likely usage and power, sounds like that would be mostly pointless. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for taking the time to show us what you do. If there’s any channel I gain real time hands on knowledge from while being entertained, it’s this one. I have a 73 318 727 4bbl duster I picked up that has a F1-50 8.8 swap and 3.73 gears. My car knowledge is only growing every day so my only question would be, performance wise what parts should I be looking to swap out. Any suggestions from anybody are welcomed.
I saw evidence that a spider gear tried to escape from that housing at some point......I learned back in the 1980's that too many long one tire burnouts result in the factory noise escaping !!
Dude love your show. You're like a ghetto graveyard carz. You need your own show. I feel your pain. I am currently in a toxic relationship with a 70 challenger.
I always smear some heavy grease in the back of the seal groove where the garter spring lives, usually it keeps it from falling off. You know you did good if it launches your phone at 1/2 throttle
Just like i commented on other videos of his, he's awsome. Like a cool sceince techer when it comes to these cars. One could actually watch his videos and learn how ta do stuff. I mean other youtubers tell you whats wrong then edit the video to "Ok now that i got that fixed" lol. And your like....shit. wish i saw how he did it. Lol. Not here, he shows and tells us everything. Im kinda nerding out on the topic...i just find mechanical stuff very interesting. Especially older cars and i even get into old farm implements and tractors. But this is becoming my favorite channel. Was VGG, buuuut...lol. idk now. To cool. Great video.
Another great video anything with a 4 speed and decent gears in the back is always a fun time Mr 4 speed. BTW are you going back to the track any time soon?
The last Bremerton test and tune is next Friday so I’m planning to be there. Had hoped my turbo project would be ready to test, but no such luck. So it’ll be one last run for the Demon, which with any luck will be retired next season in favor of the Barracuda.
The subject of rear wheel bearings has been on my mind a bit recently. And now that I've seen those dry bearings in your video, I'm wondering about the following. Being that they had no grease on them, wouldn't that mean that they are likely worn out , and should be replaced, rather than repacked with grease ? . I'm thinking of the situation with my Aussie 1971 Valiant, my father owned it before me , and it's always been well maintained as far as greasing and oil changes are concerned, and has had the front wheel bearings replaced, but for all those years I'm sure no thought has been given to the rear bearings, except for just assuming they got lubricated by the gear oil. What are the chances that mine will be dry ? , they're not noisy. Also , I knew that my diffs ratio is 2.92 , and Iv'e established that it's a Borg Warner , and also , unless Iv'e got it wrong , an 8 3/4 ?, will this be the same as what your'e working on ?. Thank you very much for your informative videos.
Great timing with this video ,having just completed a 1800 mile round trip in the gen1 ram we found out how easy it is to get stuck on wet grass .Now’s the time for some of that LSD any advice or recommendations would be appreciated remembering that over here in sunny England almost everything is in short supply so might need to get in touch with Rocket restoration.
You’ll need a limited slip carrier for whichever axle you’ve got in that thing. It’s not as easy as buying a whole center chunk like this, it will require a diff rebuild. But the carrier should be available new.
Great job, cheers from Calgary, Alberta. One question though, why didn't you change the speedo drive to get an accurate gauge? As I recall from other tranny swaps they are color coded and it is quick job. FYI, feel free to just completely ignore my comment, personally I know tjhat you know way more about these old mopars than I do and I wouldn't hesitate to leave one in your hands (as long as I still had tread left on my rubber after you tested it for QC/QA.
I have a pile of them, but I didn’t think about it until the test drive and the owner was standing there waiting to load up the car. Sounds like I’ll be doing a lot more on it in the future… so we’ll add that to the list.
Good video. I'm getting ready to do a center section swap on my challenger in the near future. I just purchased a 489 cone type sure grip with 3.23s . It's used of course. Is there any way to test it on the bench before installing it? Also if the cone type unit is trashed, what brand of clutch type unit would you recommend purchasing? Thanks
I just had a 742-case, 3.23 SG set get fresh clutches, bearings & seal (for the '76 Valiant sedan) and a 489-case, 3.55 set get new bearings & seal along with a Detroit Locker ('69 Dart Swinger 340 that is BB). Fun!
I have a 741 case in my dad's 66 Coronet. It's got a 2.94 gear ratio and is only behind a stock 273. What are the differences between a 741 and a 489 case?
Jamie, my 8 3/4 equipped cars are all southwest cars and sure grips were as rare here as air conditioning was is in Michigan cars. I'm guessing about 5 percent came with these. Which unit would you buy ? is there one that has no bad habits but is perfect for drag racing? Is there a lunch box type? Also, are sure grips or lockers of any value for motorsports other than drag racing, such as auto cross?
I can’t speak to any other type of racing but drag racing. But personally, I would get the clutch type Suregrip, because it makes the most sense to me, it was factory equipment, it doesn’t exhibit the downsides of “lockers,” and a new carrier is readily available. And it can be rebuilt if it wears. I do believe there are other types of lockers available if that’s what you are after, but I have never seen one in the wild yet.
Yes, 489 has the strongest pinion but has a crush sleeve. A crush sleeve eliminator solves the problem. I think I slightly goofed up my explanation there, as you are not the first person to ask about this.
Question, the tach in the cuda is way off. Factory rally cluster. Only difference is my brother pur electronic ignition in. Any ideas on how to fix it?
I wish I would have purchased a sure grip To convert my open diff 9 1/4 Chrysler rear axel,when I rebuilt it. But I didn't have the time or money and didn't want to wait. Looks like that rear diff change you did worked excellent. 👍
Dude, on this one, the float arm was flipped over and jammed beneath one of its limit tabs. But the float was also full of gas. So I thought for sure it would work with those two things fixed, and yet it somehow still didn’t.
Yeah pretty much. I have always been mechanically inclined. I started messing with cars at 17 and gradually figured things out. Did lots of reading. Started working at O’Reilly when I was 21, took all of their training courses and picked up a lot of useful technical stuff. Watched tons of videos and just kinda did it. Now I’m here. Thanks. Haha.
I still think that's one very pretty car with a very pretty sound. Great instructional video, mate....and great to see that she does indeed spin the rear wheels on command now.
Why oh why would ANY Challenger have a "granny diff"? It's like a Road Runner with a Slant 6! I saw one of those many years back and it horribly burned my brain receptors...
ok, so your air is smoky and your float is soggy and rainy. I'm always getting those things backwards. That's all still better than a smoky gas float but I was going to ask if that gas tank float has a glue bonding, or a soldered joining of halves, or none of the above? I had a yellow crusty glue kind of bonded Carter DDB float that got soggy. I put in a soldered type and haven't had a problem. Is the alcohol gas eating thru the bonding glue? I may have posed this question before.
They are soldered, and in some cases the solder joints fail. In others, the brass cracks. I have tried to repair them before with no luck. That’s something well worth just buying.
Hey this is Nels the guy with the 59 Chrysler going to get the oil pan gasket on the first n the oil then I will get back to you so you can here in run n maybe find out where the knock sound is thanks bud I will talk to you in the first
Do the clutches ever burn out in sure grips? As far as the bearings I understand. But Im lost on the "button" thing. Could you elaborate further? Why do you wear condoms on your hands if they are all torn up and your fingers are exposed? And reeemember....if life gives you lemons...chop down the lemon tree.
i have got a question in relation to the 8 3/4 axel. my 72 challenger has a 440 swap in it and i want to (some day) rebuild it to 450-550 hp is the axel gona last or should i buy a dana 60 (i dont want to because the of the 3.54 ratio- now its 2.93 i think)
i am in germany and nearly all driving here is on country roads (Landstraße) which is 100kmh or 62mph maybe somethimes a bit more XD and i dont want to cruise all day with 3000+ rpm I have a 727 which i dont know what converter is in(i suspect its a high rpm one) stall is 3200, should be ~2200 in the book. i dont know if the clutches slipping or its a new converter- i will see when i pull the engine and rebuild the tranni
The 8 3/4 will hold up to a lot. What it won’t hold up to is hard launches with traction on a prepped surface with a four speed and 500 horsepower. If this is a driver, the 8 3/4 may well live forever. If it’s a drag car, it won’t. If you’re planning to abuse this thing, maybe just upgrade. For my purposes, the 8 3/4 is more than adequate.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks man, its going to be a cruiser with big muscle but no drag car. maybe a burnout here and there but with normal tires on the road. but this i can do already XD Love your videos and Thanks
Jamie; I getting older so Mopar facts are slipping out of my brain; I know the 426 was gone by 73 but was the 440 still available? If so, what was the difference in HP from a 1970 440 to a 1973 440?
The 440 was still around, but increasingly rare, and missing in various car lines. E-bodies were small block only for 1972-1974 for one example. Apparently, the 440 in a ‘73 Charger was rated for 275 HP. That would have been a net rating, unlike earlier engines which had a much more optimistic gross rating. The cast crank engine that soon followed and was mostly found in trucks and motorhomes was rated around 250. The earlier 440 was typically rated for 375 HP. There were other versions, like the six pack with a 390 HP rating.
Rear Sway bar but no Front bar? No wonder it handled like a pregnant sow in your last video! I swear I've seen an aftermarket retro-duction (haha, that's a word now) of an oil pressure gauge that fits in the spare or clock hole on a standard e-body cluster. Also seen teeny-tiny tachs that fit there as well but I'll be damned if I can remember where.
Actually, while the missing bar is obviously not ideal, that was largely down to a completely twacked front end alignment. It wasn’t wallowing in the corners, it like wasn’t responding to steering input without excessive over correction. It was really weird. And I remember distinctly that this car as it was when I had it was a decent driving unit!
@@DeadDodgeGarage Lack of Sway bar would definitely make steering unresponsive and a rear one with no front would definitely create understeer. Dude should really put a front bar in that car!
how do you americans live with so short gears. Im on 26" tall tires with 2.94:1 gears and still dream of getting 2.76's with an additional overdrive. Been doing trips on the Autobahn it's really painful to keep up with traffic on the left lane with sustained 4000-5000rpm. Big V8, big noise, cant arrive anywhere without becoming deaf
We don’t have any Autobahn 😁 I drove my Charger 300 miles, much of it at 75 MPH (20-25 over the limit where I was) with these 4.30 gears and an automatic. The 383 didn’t mind too much, and I averaged 11 MPG and change. I switched it to 3.23 and I like that. Yeah, the revs could be lower, but it also has good take off as is. Also, my tires are taller.
This is a great video. I feel like some of your commenters have made you a little "cranky" lately, so I'd like to offer a positive comment. I learned something from this video. I didn't know if the wheel bearings on these old Mopars were lubricated by gear oil, which would have been convenient, or sealed and had it's own grease. Thanks to your video I now know I need to make sure they have plenty of their own grease. I also learned about how that button is only used with a sure grip unit. My point is, that I am LEARNING from your videos. Learning how to work on my own Mopes. This means that I keep my Mopars out on the road driving where they should be, not stuck on jack stands out of service. I don't know about you, but I like seeing old cars out on the road being used. It seems the public does too. So if it means anything to you, your videos are helping to keep other people's Mopars on the road too. Thank you.
Happy to help! Thank you!
@@DeadDodgeGarage here in aus. we have a mitsubishi challenger suv.. p.o.s.
Dude I barely post videos of my cars on my channel and I attract every broke hater on UA-cam for some reason. He’s got more patience than I do that’s for sure
Thanks for bringing Arizona to light. It's still in the 100s. Supposed to drop into the 90s this week. My old man's 68 Satellite is a 383 peg leg. Was originally a 318 2 bbl.
Right? Being in Tucson, Az, I was thinking the same thing. Should start getting cooler next week. 😬🤞
Love the fun of low gears! Especially with a 4 speed! I had 3:91's in my 72 340 cuda 4 speed and it was a blast, I can only imagine how those 4:30's would feel!👍
🎶Gear chunks keep falling on my head.🎶 😁
In all seriousness, thanks for another great video!
Tech tip for seals. Pack the spring side of the seal with grease. If you are worried about grease contamination, use petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Vaseline has a low melting point and mixes well with a vast majority of oils and fuels.
Hell yea!! I’ve got a line on a sure grip 3/55 chunk to go in the coronet..eventually
Jeez, I feel like I’m right there with you, but the best part, at the end of the day, my hands don’t smell like hypoid!
Lucky you. The hands are one thing… the hair is another. UGH
Real content 🫡 not all fancy music and montages. As ever many thanks DDG
Regards from uk 🇬🇧
If you pack grease in the seal, it will help prevent that tension spring from popping out when you tap it in place.
Wow. Fastest phone fall over ever 😁. I love it. And glasspacks are absolutely my choice on everything. That car sounds and looks amazing.
On those lip seals with the tension spring, I always pack the inside part of the seal (where the spring lives) with grease before driving it into whatever. That will keep the spring from jumping out. Anyway, good stuff man! Keep up the great work Jamie, and stay cool, man!
Several people have filled me in on that one here. So I guess I’ll be doing that in the future. Appreciate it! Thanks.
"I don't wrench on cars on this channel." lol
Also I always use transmission assembly grease to fill the back side of a seal before installation. That prevents the garter spring from popping out like it did for you. Learned that from a very old transmission guy.
How many times did you *SEE* me wrenching? Or pack a bearing? Or drive home a seal? So… was I actually wrong? Lol
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm just bustin' your balls lol
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm just bustin' your balls :P
For serious though, try the grease trick next seal you put on. Not just axle seals, hasn't failed me yet.
The interior of that car is PERFECT!
Very nice looking car its very interesting and informative watching what you are doing to it
DDG continues to be the best in muscle mopar content
Also, First
That thing gets cooler every time that you touch it! I bet those 4.30's are fun as hell with the 4-speed. ❤
1st time I've seen both wheels spin on this channel
Charger, Demon, Superbird, to name three that immediately come to mind
Intermittently
Good news ! a red 68 Charger sighting. That Challenger is really nice.
Oh yeah. Charger isn’t going anywhere. Haha. Really need to order a new radiator for it. Of course now the good weather is leaving us. So it might not be out for a while.
Really has improved since I last saw it. Glad it will be back on the road.
I was lucky my 318 '71 Challenger came with an 8-3/4 rear (741 small pinion 2.76:1). I could have got stuck with the tiny one. I finally nabbed a set of new 3.55 gears, and I bought a NOS cone type sure grip decades ago when they cheap; wish I'd bought more. The clutch type is better but odds are I won't wear out the cone type... The 3.55 will go in once the OD transmission is installed.
I think you said 489 case and described 742 pinion. I've got a 'spare' 489 for use with a higher gear someday and planned on using a crush sleeve eliminator kit but given the likely usage and power, sounds like that would be mostly pointless.
Thanks for another great video!
Another excellent tutorial, mate!
That is really a beautiful car!
That is a beautiful car
That’s a NICE car 😊
Thanks for taking the time to show us what you do. If there’s any channel I gain real time hands on knowledge from while being entertained, it’s this one. I have a 73 318 727 4bbl duster I picked up that has a F1-50 8.8 swap and 3.73 gears. My car knowledge is only growing every day so my only question would be, performance wise what parts should I be looking to swap out. Any suggestions from anybody are welcomed.
It's is cool but much cooler when it was the original lemon twist color with the black racing stripes.
Nice ride...💪✌️
I saw evidence that a spider gear tried to escape from that housing at some point......I learned back in the 1980's that too many long one tire burnouts result in the factory noise escaping !!
Yeeeeep. I was going to point that out but I think it slipped my mind.
beautiful car i hope he takes care of you your on the way to owning the next graveyard carz stay strong push on
Dude love your show. You're like a ghetto graveyard carz. You need your own show. I feel your pain. I am currently in a toxic relationship with a 70 challenger.
I have my own show, you’re watching it right now 😅 thanks!
@@DeadDodgeGarage show is 10/10 so far!! Love to send you a video, see if you can use your ear to do a diagnostic.
Great video. Keep em coming.
Noice vid. Noicer car. As always, informative and entertaining. The stance on that thing is just power poetry. Sounds great too. Well done.
Thanks! I really like the way that car is shaping up. I do miss its old 70s tastic style, but still… it’s good.
I always smear some heavy grease in the back of the seal groove where the garter spring lives, usually it keeps it from falling off.
You know you did good if it launches your phone at 1/2 throttle
Smart! I’ll try that next time.
Good E-body content...thanks🔧🔧👍
Once again!!! great information!! Knowledge is powerful 🤘🏻👍🏻🏁
Just like i commented on other videos of his, he's awsome. Like a cool sceince techer when it comes to these cars. One could actually watch his videos and learn how ta do stuff. I mean other youtubers tell you whats wrong then edit the video to "Ok now that i got that fixed" lol. And your like....shit. wish i saw how he did it. Lol. Not here, he shows and tells us everything. Im kinda nerding out on the topic...i just find mechanical stuff very interesting. Especially older cars and i even get into old farm implements and tractors. But this is becoming my favorite channel. Was VGG, buuuut...lol. idk now. To cool. Great video.
Well I’ll take it. Lol. Thanks!
I put an Auburn posi unit in my Ford 8 inch axel housing with 3.55 gears and Strange axels. Works great.
Kind of disappointed you didn't kick it - enjoyed the video.
Ahh, if it were mine to kick… I’m completely sure I did years ago when it was.
Minor correction...Every car is a drag car, some are just slower than others.
Fair point. Haha.
Sweet ride! Do you miss it?
Well… kinda. But I have plenty of sweet rides to make up for it.
Another great video anything with a 4 speed and decent gears in the back is always a fun time Mr 4 speed. BTW are you going back to the track any time soon?
The last Bremerton test and tune is next Friday so I’m planning to be there. Had hoped my turbo project would be ready to test, but no such luck. So it’ll be one last run for the Demon, which with any luck will be retired next season in favor of the Barracuda.
Thank you Jamie, right mix of tech & humor.
The subject of rear wheel bearings has been on my mind a bit recently. And now that I've seen those dry bearings in your video, I'm wondering about the following. Being that they had no grease on them, wouldn't that mean that they are likely worn out , and should be replaced, rather than repacked with grease ? . I'm thinking of the situation with my Aussie 1971 Valiant, my father owned it before me , and it's always been well maintained as far as greasing and oil changes are concerned, and has had the front wheel bearings replaced, but for all those years I'm sure no thought has been given to the rear bearings, except for just assuming they got lubricated by the gear oil. What are the chances that mine will be dry ? , they're not noisy. Also , I knew that my diffs ratio is 2.92 , and Iv'e established that it's a Borg Warner , and also , unless Iv'e got it wrong , an 8 3/4 ?, will this be the same as what your'e working on ?. Thank you very much for your informative videos.
Yes, I would like some advice on those things as well.
I work in a restoration shop in California, we have the same car in the shop, 73 black, 340, haven't moved in six years, owner stores it here, no rust
Great timing with this video ,having just completed a 1800 mile round trip in the gen1 ram we found out how easy it is to get stuck on wet grass .Now’s the time for some of that LSD any advice or recommendations would be appreciated remembering that over here in sunny England almost everything is in short supply so might need to get in touch with Rocket restoration.
You’ll need a limited slip carrier for whichever axle you’ve got in that thing. It’s not as easy as buying a whole center chunk like this, it will require a diff rebuild. But the carrier should be available new.
That car just makes my heart yearn for it.
Great job again Jamie!
Axle shaft seal removal tool: Slant rocker arm shaft with a bolt & nut at one end.
That's a good one!
Great job, cheers from Calgary, Alberta. One question though, why didn't you change the speedo drive to get an accurate gauge? As I recall from other tranny swaps they are color coded and it is quick job. FYI, feel free to just completely ignore my comment, personally I know tjhat you know way more about these old mopars than I do and I wouldn't hesitate to leave one in your hands (as long as I still had tread left on my rubber after you tested it for QC/QA.
I have a pile of them, but I didn’t think about it until the test drive and the owner was standing there waiting to load up the car. Sounds like I’ll be doing a lot more on it in the future… so we’ll add that to the list.
This looks and sounds like a fun car. That's what it's all about!
Good video. I'm getting ready to do a center section swap on my challenger in the near future. I just purchased a 489 cone type sure grip with 3.23s . It's used of course. Is there any way to test it on the bench before installing it? Also if the cone type unit is trashed, what brand of clutch type unit would you recommend purchasing? Thanks
I just had a 742-case, 3.23 SG set get fresh clutches, bearings & seal (for the '76 Valiant sedan) and a 489-case, 3.55 set get new bearings & seal along with a Detroit Locker ('69 Dart Swinger 340 that is BB). Fun!
The cell phone tumbling about under acceleration provides some quality footage 👍
I sure think so 😅
Some assembly required? :-)
Great video Jamie! I had no idea that the axle shaft bearings on mopars were grease packed. I’m learning a ton of things from your videos.
I have a 741 case in my dad's 66 Coronet. It's got a 2.94 gear ratio and is only behind a stock 273. What are the differences between a 741 and a 489 case?
Hey DDG, I am launching into another gripping episode while removing my rear end to the bark-o-lounger.
Thanks Jamie. I love my 8 3/4!
Jaime...put a lil grease in the oil seal spring groove to keep the spring from popping out when you drive them in place...
So I heard! I’m gonna try that next time.
Jamie, my 8 3/4 equipped cars are all southwest cars and sure grips were as rare here as air conditioning was is in Michigan cars. I'm guessing about 5 percent came with these.
Which unit would you buy ? is there one that has no bad habits but is perfect for drag racing? Is there a lunch box type?
Also, are sure grips or lockers of any value for motorsports other than drag racing, such as auto cross?
I can’t speak to any other type of racing but drag racing. But personally, I would get the clutch type Suregrip, because it makes the most sense to me, it was factory equipment, it doesn’t exhibit the downsides of “lockers,” and a new carrier is readily available. And it can be rebuilt if it wears. I do believe there are other types of lockers available if that’s what you are after, but I have never seen one in the wild yet.
God that thing is cool !
Ive started packing my seals with grease. Old timer taught me that for keeping the seal spring in place when driving it in. Works great
That's how I got thrown out of the zoo.
Nice video. Bummer on the sending unit.
Dream machine it’s a driver not a hider
489 case does use a crush sleeve correct ?
Yes, 489 has the strongest pinion but has a crush sleeve. A crush sleeve eliminator solves the problem. I think I slightly goofed up my explanation there, as you are not the first person to ask about this.
Question, the tach in the cuda is way off. Factory rally cluster. Only difference is my brother pur electronic ignition in. Any ideas on how to fix it?
I usually make paper gaskets from PBR cases.
Nice, nice. Haha. I’ve made my share of gaskets over the years. But I’m lame, I usually use gasket material. Usually.
Awesome as always! Btw…Get a new phone holder 😂
hi good ep this time maybe you should pull out the dash and see if it is a wiring issure for gas and speedo over all you did good ok.
No need - I’ve already confirmed it has nothing to do with the gauge. Thanks.
I wish I would have purchased a sure grip To convert my open diff 9 1/4 Chrysler rear axel,when I rebuilt it. But I didn't have the time or money and didn't want to wait. Looks like that rear diff change you did worked excellent. 👍
My new sending unit came with the float arm installed backwards.
Dude, on this one, the float arm was flipped over and jammed beneath one of its limit tabs. But the float was also full of gas. So I thought for sure it would work with those two things fixed, and yet it somehow still didn’t.
@@DeadDodgeGarage jeez, you would think lol
So you know allll this stuff just by tinkering around? Dude your awsome lol.
Yeah pretty much. I have always been mechanically inclined. I started messing with cars at 17 and gradually figured things out. Did lots of reading. Started working at O’Reilly when I was 21, took all of their training courses and picked up a lot of useful technical stuff. Watched tons of videos and just kinda did it. Now I’m here. Thanks. Haha.
I still think that's one very pretty car with a very pretty sound. Great instructional video, mate....and great to see that she does indeed spin the rear wheels on command now.
Nice vid. Next time, pack the seal with grease to keep the spring from jumping out.
I heard that! New one for me, I’ll be trying that next time.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I can't take credit for that one. My old time mechanic buddy taught me that.
Glaspacks yay! Turbo mufflers boo!
The magnets from a 6x9 speaker make dandy phone holders
That's an interesting thought. Haha. But if there is a magnetic surface available, I actually have a magnet phone mount.
I remember changing one out on my back. My arms gave up just as i got it to slide in.
I did the Charger gears on the ground. That was rough... I'm spoiled rotten having the lifts now.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yes but you still need to add A/C to your shop in order to achieve maximum spoilage
I like how you can be seen talking with your hands from behind the camera in the reflection of the car.
This is the way 😅
it's a rainy, soggy kind of 92 degrees, I suspect.
Well, it wasn’t then… it was a wildfire smoky 92.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe the 8 3/4 pinion is larger than the ford 9".
Not sure on the pinion thickness. The 9” has a strength advantage due to its pinion height, and extra support for the pinion.
4:30s and a 4 spd, definitely a recipe for fun. Nothing wakes up a car like gears.
But if it's your dairy driver it can get a little old over time
Spoils the milk?
Yeah the cows Do get tired of the burnouts.. 😂😂😂
Why oh why would ANY Challenger have a "granny diff"? It's like a Road Runner with a Slant 6!
I saw one of those many years back and it horribly burned my brain receptors...
ok, so your air is smoky and your float is soggy and rainy. I'm always getting those things backwards. That's all still better than a smoky gas float but I was going to ask if that gas tank float has a glue bonding, or a soldered joining of halves, or none of the above? I had a yellow crusty glue kind of bonded Carter DDB float that got soggy. I put in a soldered type and haven't had a problem. Is the alcohol gas eating thru the bonding glue? I may have posed this question before.
They are soldered, and in some cases the solder joints fail. In others, the brass cracks. I have tried to repair them before with no luck. That’s something well worth just buying.
Hey this is Nels the guy with the 59 Chrysler going to get the oil pan gasket on the first n the oil then I will get back to you so you can here in run n maybe find out where the knock sound is thanks bud I will talk to you in the first
Sounds good man. Talk to you then.
Do the clutches ever burn out in sure grips?
As far as the bearings I understand. But Im lost on the "button" thing. Could you elaborate further?
Why do you wear condoms on your hands if they are all torn up and your fingers are exposed?
And reeemember....if life gives you lemons...chop down the lemon tree.
Yes, I want to do a burnout. Great video Jamie
i have got a question in relation to the 8 3/4 axel.
my 72 challenger has a 440 swap in it and i want to (some day) rebuild it to 450-550 hp
is the axel gona last or should i buy a dana 60 (i dont want to because the of the 3.54 ratio- now its 2.93 i think)
i am in germany and nearly all driving here is on country roads (Landstraße) which is 100kmh or 62mph
maybe somethimes a bit more XD
and i dont want to cruise all day with 3000+ rpm
I have a 727 which i dont know what converter is in(i suspect its a high rpm one) stall is 3200, should be ~2200 in the book.
i dont know if the clutches slipping or its a new converter- i will see when i pull the engine and rebuild the tranni
The 8 3/4 will hold up to a lot. What it won’t hold up to is hard launches with traction on a prepped surface with a four speed and 500 horsepower. If this is a driver, the 8 3/4 may well live forever. If it’s a drag car, it won’t. If you’re planning to abuse this thing, maybe just upgrade. For my purposes, the 8 3/4 is more than adequate.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks man,
its going to be a cruiser with big muscle but no drag car.
maybe a burnout here and there but with normal tires on the road. but this i can do already XD
Love your videos and Thanks
Jamie;
I getting older so Mopar facts are slipping out of my brain; I know the 426 was gone by 73 but was the 440 still available? If so, what was the difference in HP from a 1970 440 to a 1973 440?
The 440 was still around, but increasingly rare, and missing in various car lines. E-bodies were small block only for 1972-1974 for one example. Apparently, the 440 in a ‘73 Charger was rated for 275 HP. That would have been a net rating, unlike earlier engines which had a much more optimistic gross rating. The cast crank engine that soon followed and was mostly found in trucks and motorhomes was rated around 250. The earlier 440 was typically rated for 375 HP. There were other versions, like the six pack with a 390 HP rating.
Are you going to the no-name nationals
I'm a sucker for 73-74 challengers in black. I use to hate them but now i don't. I might have to sell some stuff and go find one.
It’s real good looking, that seems to be the consensus
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm on marketplace right now💰
Hey there Jamie. You need a phone holder. Regards from Ody Slim
Rear Sway bar but no Front bar? No wonder it handled like a pregnant sow in your last video!
I swear I've seen an aftermarket retro-duction (haha, that's a word now) of an oil pressure gauge that fits in the spare or clock hole on a standard e-body cluster. Also seen teeny-tiny tachs that fit there as well but I'll be damned if I can remember where.
Actually, while the missing bar is obviously not ideal, that was largely down to a completely twacked front end alignment. It wasn’t wallowing in the corners, it like wasn’t responding to steering input without excessive over correction. It was really weird. And I remember distinctly that this car as it was when I had it was a decent driving unit!
@@DeadDodgeGarage Lack of Sway bar would definitely make steering unresponsive and a rear one with no front would definitely create understeer. Dude should really put a front bar in that car!
Yes, I want to do a burnout ❤
🤙🏁🏁
😎
I've got the cone style sure grip. Works OK so far, but if I try and spin both wheels while I'm turning, it acts more like an open diff.
Interesting. Probably working as intended? Gotta be honest, the operation of the cone type is complete voodoo to me.
@DeadDodgeGarage yeah, either working as intended, or it's getting weak
Doesn’t uncle Tony need a sure grip?
He needs a limited slip carrier for an 8 1/4. Different deal.
🤘🏼⛽️🍻
🎶Yes I wanna do a burnout 🎶
Nothin wrong with Torinos.
Challenger is besser tho.
how do you americans live with so short gears. Im on 26" tall tires with 2.94:1 gears and still dream of getting 2.76's with an additional overdrive. Been doing trips on the Autobahn it's really painful to keep up with traffic on the left lane with sustained 4000-5000rpm. Big V8, big noise, cant arrive anywhere without becoming deaf
We don’t have any Autobahn 😁 I drove my Charger 300 miles, much of it at 75 MPH (20-25 over the limit where I was) with these 4.30 gears and an automatic. The 383 didn’t mind too much, and I averaged 11 MPG and change. I switched it to 3.23 and I like that. Yeah, the revs could be lower, but it also has good take off as is. Also, my tires are taller.
What ?