Olympus jpg settings - How to get it RIGHT!
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Knowing the jpg settings in your Olympus is important. Sometimes jpeg can be a very good option. In this video, I will tell you why.
📽 How jpg can help you to be better: • How JPG can help you t...
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LSF only now for me. I didn’t switch to digital back in 2003 to end up with a more difficult workflow! Yes, early digital cameras did need a lot of help with white balance and colour rendition, and yes when I was shooting weddings on full frame DSLRs, of course I used RAW and slaved away in post processing. But I’ve stopped all that and gone lightweight with Olympus gear. I love trying to get the image right at the time of shooting, and Olympus JPEG with Vivid colour setting is just right for me! I’ve even cut out LR and use Apple Photo on my Mac, for any little tweaks. I love the results I get, and the fun that Olympus has put back into my photography, with lightweight kit and great lenses. Throw in things like Live Mode and Live Composite, and I’ve got great tools to create fantastic images and memories
I shoot exclusively JPEG. I know that RAW gives you more flexibility in editing but I find that the out of camera pictures are generally good enough that they at most only need minor editing, if any, to make me happy with them (e.g. tweak the brightness and contrast a bit maybe and perhaps crop the image a bit). I am not a fan of artificial drama, colours or touch ups (skin softening etc) added in post as a rule and prefer my pictures (mostly travel photos and dance performances) to be true to life and spontaneous (if people are in the shot show warts and all). I guess I am not very artistic with respect to my photography:-) Truth be told, I also enjoy the process of taking photos (subject identification, composition, choosing camera modes and settings etc.) much more than editing in post. Having spent 30 years in IT spending more time than necessary in front of a computer screen is not something I aspire to :-) But … to each his or her own :-)
gabithemagyar Yes! We are in “violent agreement” ... my day job already requires too much screen time, looking for best “out of camera” results (mostly monochrome for me). I find Apple Photos to be a great “touch up” (crop, contrast, etc) JPEG editor.
I totally agree, I am an old fashion Amateur photographer, I started with a FILm camera, no reflex and after shoot the photoes wait a week for de eloped. I think if you think before you can Ave a good photo and more satisfaction.
@@sebastianop.3052 exactly ! :-)
I am also a fan of Apple Photos. I use RAW for landscapes if I think I will need to edit heavily, but mostly use JPEG overall. Apple Photos edits both formats really well. My Canon 6D produces great JPEGs and also in-camera HDR JPEGs. I think many photographers don't realise that you can edit JPEGs quite effectively if you want, you just don't quite have the latitude for post processing. JPEGs are not as "baked in" as the RAW-only lobby would have us believe... @@valdiskrebs566
After a lot of thought I decided to try the HDR function to copy slides. The excessive contrast is gone! They're fabulous and I couldn't be happier. I'm sharing this so that others can also benefit. People helping people. When the opportunity arises, please share this through your prominent Internet platform. Enjoy your videos. ...and just another reason to love my Olympus. Thank you Peter.
Good suggestions! 1 big reason I use Pen-f is the monotone choices, color & art choices, and gorgeous jpeg output! I am not a patient post processor anymore. An “in-camera” solution & toolbox satisfies me. Olympus really crushes my Pentax kit in those areas... right tools for the tasks etc!
Lots of useful info in this post, Peter. Well done. I shoot JPEG (plus RAW) when I plan to make a pano using simple software like MS ICE that works only w/JPEGS. Olympus has given us an impressive array if in-camera tools, best used by folks who understand how the tools work in conventional editing software.
Thanks for all the great tips Peter
This was helpful for me, I'm a JPEG shooter and proud of it. I sometimes use the "Art" filters, grainy film and pinhole only.
I mostly shoot jpeg and only use raw for essential photos and in tricky artificial light and then always jpeg plus raw. Today's jpegs give sufficient latitude to post-process in the vast majority of cases, even for white balance adjustments.
Olympus art modes are superb and I often use art bracketing for speed and the ability to choose in post. Yes, Olympus art modes are very customisable and again I use this feature fairly regularly.
The tone curves are also often used, not only on Olympus but also Panasonic cameras. HDR and DRO[one shot] are also useful. Yes, I use all these regularly.
Monotone? Yes. Both in camera and often in post processing. Love it.
Colour Creator? Not so much. Hardly at all in fact on my E-M10 MkII
I think you read my mind - in advance! I too love the Olympus art modes, and Oly jpegs. Another feature I like is the Olympus app for the iPad allows you to apply one or all of the art filters to your photos as you download them. Then you can pick and choose which filters to use. My most liked photo used an Olympus art filter on a jpg - except for a minor tweak to the exposure basically SOOC.
JPEG I like when yes, I don't want a bunch of post process, the situation isn't challenging light wise and I think that Olympus has done a great job here with enabling creatives to do much of the post work in the camera. What this video really points out is to learn your camera and experiment. As for Loki, remember Thor believes he is an evil creature
I still occasionally use my E-P1 (still, after all these years) and I find that the monochrome jpegs that come out of it are really stellar. Using the E-P1 and the BCL15 is a fun walking around combo (although I usually use the 17 f1.8)
Great video Peter. I love color creator and partial color...the effect of black and white with one color on the scene is fantastic for me. I think raw is the best solution but I have got few time to dedicate at the pp and so I prefer the jpeg way.
I have used HDR mode one em5 mkii in some tricky situation, one push to activate or desactivate..... this camera is awesome for travel ! And even more for pro !
Thanks for the vidéo !
Great video as always, Peter. I love the art filters and playing with the color creator, especially on the Pen F. I really only use raw for my pro work as I constantly deal with backlighting and white balance issues in real estate.
Thanks Rob. in Real Estate photography raw is a must. Pen-F is an interesting camera. Have not used for a long time. I do not have one.
I am a casual photographer who shoots mainly family events and vacation so I shoot JPG only. I use natural and BW setting the most.
very helpful advice for jpeg settings which I use most of the time and enjoy ! .if i need to enhance the image then Lightroom offers me the flexibilities that I need , so they are a good combination .another practical approach to add to my collection of your videos .many thanks Peter !
Glad it was helpful!
Peter, am using M10mk3 for 4 years now, but just now purchased refurbished M1mk2, so started to watch Your content in order to learn more about proprer / more creative adjustments of OMD cameras.
Am amazed with Your knowledge and way You share it with Us.
Thanks to You found out many useful tricks, as focus peaking using my beloved manual lenses for instance.
Answering honestly to Your question, I do use only JPEGs, but from now will experiment more with RAWs.
Thank you very much.
Nice video, I used to do jpeg but since the latest firmware update we can transfer raw files by WiFi to say an IPad. On my IPad I have Lightroom and so I use that when I’m traveling and in need of a developed picture. I love the HDR function.
Always very informative, Peter. Thank you. That HDR feature is pretty amazing. Will try that today perhaps. So a tripod would be beneficial here I suppose.
Yes it can help., but all my HDR-images were taken hand held. Camera uses high sequencal mode and takes a burst of images.
I use jpeg a lot and I found this video contained many helpful tips and ideas t ohelp me think more creatively .So thanks a lot Peter and keep the good ideas flowing !!
Thanks. Glad it was helpful!
I mainly photo rowing and there is often a need for some images to be available immediately so I always shoot Raw and JPG. The two card capacity of the E-M 1 Mk2 the set up is ideal. Leave the raw recording card (128gb) in slot 1 and swap out jpg cards in slot 2 as needed.
I am not a patient post processor anymore, I start to be a SOOC shooter a while ago, that has made me a more creative photographer, and it also make me photograph more instead of sitting in front of my laptop and post processing.
I’m an enthusiastic amateur photographer. I always shoot raw and jpeg together. I like having a jpeg for immediate use, for instance to transfer to my phone for email or to send a postcard via Touchnote.
I have used Canon cameras for years, and like to process my images in Lightroom to make the best out of them.
But I have recently bought a PEN F for walking and travel. I have been taking it along on my exercise walks during the lockdown (I’m very fortunate to live where there is varied countryside between suburban areas). I’m just getting into the Art filters. Normally I don’t like over-processed images, but surprisingly I like the two Pop Art filters, given the right subject. I also like the straightforward monochrome setting for some subjects.
My strategy of shooting jpeg and raw together means that I always have the raw file to work on if I decide that I don’t like the jpeg result, or if I want to make more out of an image.
Another great video!! I shoot all the time in RAW post production provide more options than jpeg.
No Peter I have never shot in Raw format, always used JPEG. I am looking forward to try and use Raw.
I shot JPGs only, and use Apple Photos to crop/tweak them. I don’t use HDR... but will try HDR1.
I shoot both on my EM-1.2.
When I do model shoots, the JPEG gives a very good result to be able immediately review after the shoot.
very useful videos, i loved the original em1 ,the mk ii is fantastic
Thanks.
I used only jpeg for HDR and for burst mode.
HDR because I want to see the result before stacking the RAWs.
Burst mode to save recording time and avoid missing a good shot.
Hey Peter another good video. I shoot only in raw. Warm regards form Sicily
Thanks.
Hello Peter, I enjoy watching your videos. I always shoot in JPEG + RAW. I enjoy post processing using Luminar software. As far as HDR is concerned, I have only experimented with the HDR in camera settings a few times. I do, however, when there is a scene that I really enjoy, shoot using AE Bracketing (usually 3 exposures, but on occasion 5 exposures) and create HDR images using Aurora HRD 2019 or ON1 Photo RAW 2018. I upgraded from an Olympus E-500 which I have had since around 2008 - 2009 to the OM-D EM10 Mark iii in March of this year. I absolutely love this mirrorless camera and the abilities of this camera compared to my E-500 are mindboggling.
Thanks. Glad you find your E-M10 MKIII great.
I find that HDR1 works very well for spectacular shots of storm clouds.
I used jpegs all the time but started using RAW + jpeg more recently. I found LSF Large super fine resolution early fortunately. Almost always with natural colour profile and auto white balance, except in artificial light where I use incandescent preset or 3000K custom.
I sometimes use jpg, but only for some special occasion. However, I still think it's good to know how make good jpg.
I agree that it is good to know. As I said in the video, I very seldom use jpg.
Thanks! I personally put +1 sharpness. Then the curve: +4 shadow, -5 highlight, +1 midtone. 🙂
Thanks for sharing!
Hi, great work!
Please tell me if You can use presets also for raw files in E-M1 mkII?
Many thanks
Yes, but you need to use Olympus Workspace. I assume that you mean the Art-filters?
I do photography as a hobby; I don't want to spend a lot of time fine tuning my images. Besides, I really love the color profiles on my Olympus and I think they do a better job than I would if I applied them manually in post.
I used to prefer the Olympus JPEG colour (in early models, I even chose Keep Colors Warm) a lot and found with early Lightroom e.g. Ver 4, the default profile did not make raw look nice without work. Early Panasonic JPEG (G2, GF3) was not to my taste either. Then by LR 6 or LR CC, Lightroom finally gave defaults for raw that are as good as Olympus SOOC JPEG.
I never knew about pressing Info in Highlight/Shadow to affect mid tones 😀. I was wishing there was a way to do that. Thanks Peter!
Happy to help!
Of course, I found out the hard way that it doesn’t work on the E-M10 II 🙁
Jpeg +raw for me with my pen F, great custom colour wheel set to mimic kodachrome which works well in certain light but always back it up with raw file
What setting do you have on the Mono/Color wheel for Kodachrome?
I always use jpeg on all my cameras. Some aren't Oly.. Some old P&S, and I scan in photos from my scanner. Shooting RAW would be a real hassle and I find JPEG image quality great for anything I would need.
Hello Peter, thanks for all your videos. I just returned from a trip, I forgot to change settings to RAW and shot in JPEG. I’m using OM Workspace for editing pictures from my OM1 body. If I make an edit or edits how do I save the edited picture without saving to new folder?
I do shoot jpeg along with raw. After a vacation trip, my gf wants to have my pictures so she can see them whenever she wants, and it's much more convenient to give her the jpegs. Then I retouch the raws I want and use the jpegs to show the whole trip to the family, etc.
I'd like to point out that almost everything you can do in camera, you can also do with the Olympus software for processing photos (if there is a specific effect you really prefer).
Yes, you are right. Olympus Workspace is a good software.
In-camera adjustment of - Shadow and + Highlight vs Contrast slider , are they having the same effect on the image contrast, do both affecting the white and black level of the image similarly ?
Yes they do, but with the curves you have more control.
Thanks a lot again
You're welcome.
Before I bought my em 5 II, I never shot JPEG’s, but now I occasionally do. The picture styles I like are grainy film (for hard street photography), monotone and soft focus. I like soft focus when using vintage Olympus lenses in autumn or spring.
You can use all ISO levels in monotone mode and get a nice grain as well. It's perfect for black and white shooters.
Thanks for the tip.
I think the factory setting for JPG is LF (large fine). But, I turned on LSF (large super fine). This will get a better quality, isn't it?
Wanted to mention that aswell. I agree Lin,that should also enhance the quality of your jpeg's.Maybe Peter can advise on that point.
You are right. I should have mentioned that in the video.
Hello from New York City! What is the difference between Contrast and Dynamic Range? Thank you for your informative video.
Contrast is the diffenrence between the lightest part and the darkest part in a scene or photograph. Dynamic range is the amount of contrast the sensor can capture.
I shoot both RAW and JPEG all the time with my Olympus camera. I can shoot the jpeg in black and white or add a fancy filter and change the aspect ratio on the image and still have the untouched RAW file to work with later. It's really helpful if you tend to leave your images for a few weeks before you process them. The JPEG jogs your memory of what you envisaged when you shot it.
That is very good way. Do you use the Olympus Workspace to edit your b&w jpgs or do you just have them straight from camera?
@@ForsgardPeter When I first bought my EM5 mk1 back in 2014 I only had the Olympus Workspace and Photoshop Elements 5 to work with. So that's what I used. A while after that I found a free copy of DXO Pro 7 or 8 with a photography magazine and then later I got DXO Pro 9 the same way. That's what I mainly use nowadays. I'm hoping to buy the new DXO Photolab program soon (Bought a couple of new lenses recently so need to collect the pennies again :D I use the JPEG images mainly for sharing with family and friends on the internet and the RAW images are usually for things I plan to sell. I'm not a pro but I find shooting both files together gives me more options.
Nothing wrong with shooting jpg and raw. It is very convinient to have a file for sharing right away. I have tried DXO a few years ago. need to try it again. It most likely has gone forward in features and quality? You sell your images, sounds great!
These videos are very helpful for me. But now I´m a little bit confused. How can I have own JPEG settings and own RAW settings. Do I have to use those C1-C3 or ?
Yes, add them to a custom mode.
I use the LF and raw setting.
I use color creator all the time
Peter I have just purchased an m1 mk3 and pana Leica 100 -400 lense. I have Lense priority on. For ois. Although my images are correctly exposed I find the images Not tack sharp. I am disappointed. Is there a setting I have missed here as you in previous video said this is a great combination. Thanks
It should work, but have you treid to turn off the IBIS in camera?
HDR photo yes six stack i use all the time in low light and then snitch them together photoshop no need for flash in most case.. but solid hand needed... Peter still can't see suggestion videos at the end, hopefull it just limit to the down under.
Do you have an ad blocker on?
Some more jpg tips... Auto tends to choose I-enhance which by default tends to be too unnatural...but I-enhance > Picture Adjustment Low yields very good results for outdoor images. Olympus outdoors tends to produce warm images. WB Sunny often will produce more accurate and more pleasing blue skies and green trees when activated. Gradation auto is very volatile. It can destroy contrast, but can work well for some some scenes. It usually works best if the foreground is where you need shadow recovery. Under-exposing and using gradation > auto can work well for skies. Gradation auto tends to work surprisingly well for macro...especially dark insects. Macro subjects tend to have extreme shadows that benefit from auto gradation...especially when using a flash. Some of the scene modes work decently as well. I like beach mode myself. HDR mode to me looks too unnatural but I know some Oympus users really like it. Lastly it depends on the camera, but I think aperature priority for macro is somewhat overrated and macro/microscope mode actually tend to produce better results.
Thanks for the tips. Very good.
Hi Mr Forsgard....If I am not wrong...I remember that ,a longtime ago, you suggested to put RAW when we were programing a new camera.Are you
a RAW fan..? Regards.
Yes, I am. I use Raw almost 99%, but as you saw in the video jpg can give you great results.
I have used Olympus cameras since the Evolts and the old point and shoots that used XD cards. Here are my settings.
Vivid
Cont = +2
RGB = +1
Grad = Low
Natural
All = 0
Grad = Norm
Muted
Cont = -2
RGB = -1
Grad = High
Portrait
All = 0
Grad = Auto
I never touch sharpness. The reason I say this is because the picture modes are so close to one another that the shift to use them doesn't really justify using one or the other without modification because the change is too subtle. As for jpeg I have used it, a lot, mostly when just wondering around. I find if you focus on getting the image right from the start you have less to edit later anyway and less editing means taking more pictures. The only time I feel a need to use RAW is when the subject is extremely important for an assingment or event. I came to this conclusion while shooting RAW+JPEG and just never really editing most in post so the raw images just took up space.
Good tips, thanks.
I usually shoot Raw + JPEG, never use the arts mode. JPEG is for sharing right away, If I do any post processing in Darktable I'll replace the original JPEG with that results.
Peter. OM1n owner here from a long time ago. I have such an attachment to that camera!!... Can you please offer some advice on JPEG settings for slide copying? They have too much contrast. Epson scanner does an excellent job, but is slow. These aren't Ansel Adams photos and I don't want to have to post process 2000+ slides in RAW (or JPEG). RAW+LSF Contrast =-2 Saturation =-2 Sharpness =-2 Natural Setting Custom WB highlights =255 shadows =1 OM M5 Miii Beginning to question my purchase of this 60mm f2.8 macro. I watched your slide copying video but not much on camera settings. Any suggestions? Thanks Peter.
When copying slides the results are more contrasty than the original. For the best results you need shoot raw. Then in post production tweek the image to your likings. If you want to use jpg then making settings that lower the contrast, etc. It is the only way.
Hello. Do I understand correctly that the jpg setting (F/MF/SF) does not effect the raw file?
Yes you understand it correctly.
I only use jpeg. Any adjustment I could ever want in post processing is available in my old Paint Shop Pro X software, which I've never found a need to upgrade. I once did a raw/jpeg comparison with my old E-1 (E-1, not E-M1). To print the raw file, of course, I had to convert it to TIFF or jpeg and, having done that, could see no advantage in using raw. I occasionally use the HDR feature on my E-M10 (Mk I) but don't like it because, in addition to brightening the shadows it also dulls the highlights. I can brighten the shadows in PSP X. In addition, I (very) occasionally might do a black and white photo but never in camera, as PSP is very flexible and always gives me the results I'm looking for.
Olympus has a very good jpg and if you are happy then use it. Raw has a lot more info and that is why there is also a lot more to work when doing post processing. It also means more work.
Occasionally when someone wants the photos straight away or I want to post on Instagram and FB without needing to edit.
Hi does this explain how to select jpeg type?
If I remember correctly I do not explain that in detail. The best way is to use jog is to use the SF compression. It can be found from shooting menu 1 and then check the compression settings from Custom menu G and the first option. L SF is the best mode.
Mun olympus om-d 10 mark iii pitää outoa hurinaa kun ottaa videota, ja toki hurina tallentuu mikrofoniin ja kuuluu sitten videolla. Onko normaalia vaiko ei?
Ei kuulosta normaalilta ellei se ole vakaajan ääni? Kokeile kuuluuko hurina myös jos otat vakaajan pois päältä.
One way to get better JPEG's then the settings that come with camera is the set the JPEG to LSF (Large Super Fine) rather then LF (Large Fine). For some reason LSF is not an option on the super control panel and you have to go to the settings menu to do this. It is well worth it though. I just upgraded to an EM1 Mii and the JPEG's were noticeably worse then my 6 year old EM10. It took me a while until I realized that my EM10 was set at LSF and my EM1 Mii was set at LF. When I changed the EM1 to LSF the image quality was noticeably better, not just in sharpness but white balance as well. I am not sure why this is not a default on the Olympus cameras or why online posts about setting up your camera neglect to mention this very important feature.
Yes, for some odd reason LSF is not the default option.
I just got a Tough TG-6 and was repulsed by the box settings - way too washed out and with sunny skies blown out in the Natural setting for me. I hate unnatural-looking, oversaturated pics but have to use Vivid just to get some kind of pop into my pics and compensate a notch with the exposure dial if I need to. Toying with the idea of using I-Enhance set on low but all it seems to be is Vivid with the contrast adjusted a bit to lighten the whole pic, so I'm not sure if I like it yet. What's your opinion on i-enhance? Is it going to blow out my skies even more?
I want quick images with as little post work as possible so jpeg only for me. I'm even getting sick of a simple rotate and crop given the number of pics I take when travelling. Getting damned lazy in my old age.
Is the exposure correct so that there is no exposure compensation on?
@@ForsgardPeter I think so. My beef is with washed out background mountains in sunlight, horribly backlit objects and grainy skies. My old Canon GX9 Mark II got water damaged and I miss its lovely rich, smooth skies.
What is the exposure shift option? It's not explained well in the manual but it seems to be an overall setting you can use e.g. to make all your photos less exposed having a different zero baseline from which to do exposure compensation as needed. Is that correct? Might shooting in SCN scenery HDR mode work for these shots I'm having difficulty with?
If you reset your camera to get jpeg back to default settings don’t forget to set back to highest resolution afterwards.
Good point and I should have said that in the video.
Hi Peter!
I only shoot jpg. I prefer to make changes like contrast etc on the spot and not later behind the computer. Unfortunalty I find my Olympus cameras (EM10 en EM1) don't to a good job when I shoot portraits especially of caucasian people.The skincolor is almost always to red. When a person is a bit red in the face it is extreme on my jpeg photo's. You as a professional using Olympus must have been confronted with this also. When you make portaits and shoot in jpegs how did you solve this? I am looking forward to your reaction. I am planning to do more portaits in the future but if I cannot solve this I need to switch -reluctantly- to another system.
I mostly use raw when photographing portraits. Adjusting the white balance might be the answer.
@@ForsgardPeter
Thanks for you reply Peter. I must say that it is surprising that when I contact Olympus/OMDS are an ambassador about this without an exception the reaction is rather blank: use raw or modify the whitebalance a bit. These modification do not really help. This means that for portrait, jpg and Olympus is a bad combination because of how the software converts the raw data to jpg and I haven't met anyone how really cares...
Using raw file format of tweek the white balance in canera when using jpg file format is the way ti go. Sorry if that answer is not enough. By the way I not an Ambassador for OM SYSTEM anymore. I was at the time ths video was made.
@@ForsgardPeter
Don't be sorry Peter, I think Olympus/OMD should have payed more attention to the skin tones for the jpg processing.
Olympus always seems so tricky and difficult, aren´t there any way they could be making it more easier for the user? icre they worse than Panasonic or nikon
Good film by the way Peter
Thank you.
Hi😊
SuperFine is not default compression in Olympus..
No it is not, you are right.
Sometime I tried to use it, but the result didn't convince me, because without postprocessing I found no real difference to the raw files
HDR is worth a presentation. I tried it with moving vehicles and the results were ghostly! I don’t use raw as I don’t print. I’m a happy amateur so I suffer no pressure to produce.
It takes several images using high sequencal and that causes the problem when making images of moving objects.
I find the HDR pics created by Oly rather flat and so I have to do some extra tweeking in post - contrast, gamma, saturation.
You have tried both the HDR1 and HDR2?
@@ForsgardPeter yes.
i shoot with a gx9 and the jpegs on that camera are awful.. wish they were a bit more detailed like fuji
I shoot jpeg use Olympus ishare and snapseed on my phone. That's my post I have right now 😂
very based and jpg pilled
I shoot JPG only. I'm old school. A good photographer will get close to what he wants straight from the camera. Only minor tweaking should be necessary
It all depends on the style. In street for example that is correct. Take a look at how much was done in darkroom back in the days. All prints are quite heavily edited.
Bonus Tip: Press Fn2 on the E-M1 (1) and go to the Color Creator. This works fine unless you have reconfigured your Olympus photo computer to show you the pressure on Fn2's next weekend's lottery numbers. Then you'll get rich, but you'll never find the Color Creator again. :)))))
Not to rain on Olympus parade, but they made a really stupid move with the color creator in Olympus workspace. If you plug a raw image into the workspace, you access the level of color creator of your camera, so you'd need raw files of a pen f to benefit from the color adjustments of the pen-f in Olympus workspace. But. But if you export your raw (from any other camera) to tiff and then load the tiff into OW, you gain access to the Pen-F color creator wheel. This is stupid beyond comprehension, I mean, marketing-department level of stupid.
Out of the box JPEGs from Olympus have amazing color. Not a fan of art filters or picture profiles.
HDR is God`s gift to extending range in digital photography. A good tripod is the other.
When using HDR, DO NOT make it look like one.
Thats is a good point. Thats why I do not like the HDR2 that much.
prefer jpegs , i have no need to spend hours on a computer pp nonsense, thats for pros and wanna b people that think they're better than they actually are. Anyway you can pp on your phone nowadays, jpegs to.
Olympus out of the box jpegs are not the best quality available, you need to change from LF to LSF to get the best output.
Yes, you are right.
I shoot raw+jpeg