One advantage of induction forging you didn’t mention was its efficiency when working at higher altitudes. The induction forge doesn’t require oxygen to burn fuel, so it heats more efficiently than coal or propane when working at higher altitudes (esp. above 7,000 feet MSL).
Interesting! I plan on someday living on some land I bought in Colorado at 9,000 feet elevation so an induction forge might be the way for me once I have a shop.
Thanks John! You've answered some of the more practical questions I had about induction forges that I could never find in any of the spec sheets. I love the romance of the coal forge and it really keeps my creative juices flowing, but sometimes I just need some heat. I'm going to have to work a little harder and maybe Santa will gift me one!
Looking forward to the day I can get one of these up and running in my shop! And great to see the update about the quick change system you're using for your coils, that feels like it would really help reduce the overhead in changing them, so you're less likely to try to get by with the wrong coil just because it's currently hooked up. Great video, thanks!
Super helpful as ever, John. I've been thinking about it as coal and coke is becoming virtually unobtainable in Australia. My main worry was the electricity cost, but you have allayed my fears. The ornamental scrap steel hook is spectacular, by the way
I just got my induction forge up and running in our house garage this week! Your previous videos, along with others like EJ of the Anvil, were INVALUABLE for learning what would be involved ahead of time. Picked up the same US Solids model you have and their 20L cooler, which has been running great! It's been a dream of mine for years to start blacksmithing and you helped a ton in making it a reality. My first piece was a little leaf inspired by your method that I now proudly carry with me everywhere. Thank you so much for everything you do here and all the advice you give. I hope to put all I've learned from you into practice and continue to learn more as I start my blacksmithing journey!
I'm friends with Terry at Cluaran Forge and he's got a big variety of products available and he's always working on new stuff. The induction forge is a really unique tool and works great for a lot of things.
Thanks for spending the time to talk about the induction forge . I have been thinking of getting on but thought it might be just a waste of money. But now it might just be a money saver.
I used to work on electron microscopes, they used chillers much like the one you described. We used additives, mostly to deal with algae, but I suspect that there are "safe" additives to deal with temperature. One was "Chloramine T". I think simple baking powder was also used (it has been a while, don't take my word for it). Just distilled water would eventually cause issues with algae.
Enjoy the videos. I started in forging with 16K pound Erie steam hammers running on air pressure forging the front axles for the semi-tractor trucks. Since then I've been on all sizes of hammers from 1.5 - 50K as well as all other forging equipment except ring roll forges. The nice thing about induction heat is how much cooler the shop is with it.
Great information as usual,I like the thought of being able to just use something like that for a quick job without having to fire up a forge and wait for it to come up to temp. I really like those quick change couplers, I'd say those are a real game changer. I have a little inductor for heating nuts for my mechanic work but it's only good for about 30 seconds or so and it has a push button to operate it. Thanks for the demonstration!
I am mainly a coal guy, but it is rare that I don't use my induction forge any time I'm in the shop. Easily one of the best additions I've added in a very long time. Cluaran Forge makes great quick connects and coils.
I met Terry from Cluaran Forge a couple years ago when I used to run a small induction melter at a local (Ottawa, ON) school part time. Really nice guy.
Great informational video. I had my induction forge for about two months and learning how to use it along with what shape coils i need. It is almost like magic heating. Keep up the great informative videos.
Good afternoon John. Nice video, thanks for the tip on the quick change system. I'll recommend contacting US Solid about your coolant, I was told that they recommend only distilled water, anything else will ruin the electronics in the heater.
Very informative. Thank You! As a Career Fabricator, I've done much heating for forming and for preheating for welding and brazing with an oxy/propane tip on my cutting torch. That works okay. Now I'm retired, and wanting to be a "hobby blacksmith" (just got my first real anvil). Maybe make some gardening tools, knives and welded scrap metal sculptures. (Gongs out of some of the many cylinder tanks in my scrap pile?). Always still be a welder/fabricator, even if just for occasional jobs. Probably won't go beyond a propane forge, with my budget, but it is great to know about the advances in technology. Maybe someday.
Eh, as a guy who used to make induction stovetops for general purposes you did just fine for explaining what the tech does. I used to explain it as "Did you ever make an electromagnet by wrapping wire around a nail when you were younger? Nail got hot, didn't it? Same rough concept just built to take advantage of the heat instead of pick up small metal stuff." Is it a gross oversimplification of everything going on? Yes. Does it explain the basic principle well enough for people to get the concept? Yes. Thanks for showing us a bit of practical application with induction heating making it into another market!
Thanks, love the quick connects. I did find out that while the coils stay cool, the keys get fairly hot and need to be allowed to cool before swapping coils.
Yes, if you are going straight to a coil swap right after heating this is an issue. I forgot and did this the other day as I wasn’t happy with the coil size and went straight for a swap mid heat. It only takes 30 seconds or so for the cooler running for them to cool. In a typical work process you probably will have this or longer of a pause anyways.
Really cool that this is your talking point this week as I'm currently reading Erik Oberg's " heat treatment of steel" and just got into his section on the benefits of electric furnaces for heat treating over fuel furnaces. Very cool to hear YOUR opinions on electric versus coal or gas forges. Thanks for all the knowledge!
Fascinating machine. Seems to make metal forging much more accessible. I mean, it looks easy. I've never forged a thing in my life, but watching this, yeah, I think I could manage. And clearly, this machine saves a lot of energy. In ways, it's probably a lot safer too.
Great introductory presentation for induction heating for blacksmithig! A couple of comments that may be useful: 1. The chiller and associated plumbing for an induction heating unit is likely to cost as much or more than the induction heating unit. For most hobby low duty cycle blacksmith use all that is needed for cooling is a 20 to 55 gallon topless drum lined with a large plastic garbage bag, filled with tap water, covered with a plastic loose lid, and a submersible centrifugal pulp of sufficient pressure and flow for the induction heating unit specification. Putting the induction heating unit on top of the drum makes a very compact system. If done properly all the coolant drains back into the drum on shutdown eliminating the inherent electrolysis problem that is common for water cooled units sitting dormant for most of their life. If higher duty is occasionally needed, draining the barrel and refilling with fresh tap water gives immediate relief for a few pennies of tap water. 2. Like all marketing literature, the power ratings of every low cost induction unit are all pure hype, be it 15 KW, 25 KW, or 50 KW. The power of a loaded induction unit is always lower than the rated Voltage times the rated current. That is: a 2220 volt unit that runs on a 30 amp circuit cannot delivery more than 6.6 KW to the work. In fact it would more likely be providing 5 KW with a perfectly matched coil/work combination. Their hyped ratings are the maximum power circulating in the coil in its unloaded state (i.e. when no work is being heated). When considered it shows how very efficient induction heating is for metals.
Please do not recommend tap water for Induction units. It will work for a while, however the minerals in the water will cause deposits and corrosion to build up inside. Eventually it will clog and cause the unit to stop working. Protect your investment and use distilled water or Tig coolant in colder climates
I use the dynaflux in my Coal Iron Works induction forge and have had no problems. I'm running it straight (it's concentrated), as I'm in an uninsulated open shop in Indiana
John, I have the same induction forge thanks to your video several years ago. It indeed works exceptionally well. Great for rhe knife maker besides blacksmithing. As a note, I use Miller brand tig welder fluid for my cooling system.
John, Would you kindly give me the name of the company that sells the coils with the quick change fittings. I think you said they are in Canada. Thanks!
I am located in Canada, my site is open from the 1st-7th of each month for orders, shipping is approximately mid month. (will be closed in December for a break)
Thanks for sharing more about the machine! I still love the idea, and if I ever move to a home with reliable electricity, it's top of the list of purchases for me
Thanks John I have been known to make purchases after seeing something on your show. like the gloves and stuff but I make way more purchases after some email or something. But I do like what you do. Thanks again for the videos
I predict this will be one of your most viewed videos. Great information. In Aus i live in a high fire danger area and i would assume in total fore ban we could still use an induction forge as there is no fire. Win win
Thanks for the info . If I had the power needed , I would eventually get an induction forge . However I'm building my shop like your small shop ( for now )
Thank you John!!! You’re an inspiration in ways you can’t fathom Lol I’d love one of those but it’s COMPLETELY out of the budget for my small shop. Answers some questions for sure tho 👍
There is a very inexpensive cooling option that should meet any budget. Use water from your tap. It won’t use much of the cool water that has been underground. If you are worried about flow rate you can measure how long both take to fill a large bucket. I used a cheap hose valve at the business end so I didn’t have to turn it on or off from the faucet while workin I’ve used it with a cheap EBay kit and it worked great!
The main advantage for me with induction would be pinpoint heating rather than my propane forge which just heats everything. But i have a tiny carport as a shop so i wont be getting an induction forge any time soon.
G'day, mate! I've been watching your stuff for a while, and I'm finally ready and prepared to get my first forge. I was wondering if you had any recommendations for a good starter forge? Love the content man, keep it up!
The Chile Forge isn't cheap but would be a great first forge - chileforge.com/forges_tabasco_details.html Another good choice and more affordable would be the Whisper Baby - www.blacksmithsupply.com/Whisper-Baby-Forge-1-Burner_p_250.html There are lots of inexpensive gas forges on Ebay and Amazon, but I can't speak to the long term quality.
One drawback of induction over fuel heating is a higher loss of carbon. If your heating with fuel less carbon is going to leach away and noticed even your Iron bar work shifted from wrought black to a grey like of cast iron. Most induction use I have seen has been for controlled tempering or on commercial assembly lines. Would like to see a small scale induction furnace though for recycling common waste items into useable stock such as a stack of steel food cans and lids, might even make a nice fine Damascus pattern with the coatings of chrome or other metals on the insides or if done canister style with lids stacked inside a larger can with filler shavings.
It was very risky and I had to do some tinkering to get it working but I got a 15 kW induction forge and water cooler for 600€ total from a Chinese manufacturer. Wouldn't say its ideal but it is possible.
They were $6000 - $10,000 about 10 years ago. At $1500 I can't afford to NOT have one. It's already saved that in gas usage. Oxy/ fuel torch gas, that is
Incredibly timely! I ordered one on Friday. 15kw eBay affair with a chiller. About $1000. Got it because I have a machine shop and I use shrink-fit tooling, so it will work better than my previous scheme, but I also plan to forge with it as well. Looks like Cluaran Forge is closed until November and out of stock on the quick-swap kits. I'm curious what the standards they're using are, as you should be able to get hardware from McMaster and machine them to work the same without too much fuss (though the $90 price for the basic setup is definitely a good deal).
I’m open for orders from the 1st-7th of every month, shipping is approximately mid month (will be closed for December). I have been working with another individual who cracked the method on the quick connects, there has been a TON of work that went into dialling everything in so that info is 🤫
@@cluaranforge3985 Nice. I've just designed my own version using what look like similar connectors via McMaster. I guess I'll find out how fussy the connections are! I think your offerings and pricing are very reasonable, just seemed like a fun challenge, and I have a machine shop, so it shouldn't be tooooo big of a deal.
i wonder if quick release fittings for gaming computers would work well here :o the copper pipes are a lot narrower though with an adapter on the end of them it'd be 2 seconds to unclip and 2 seconds to clip on. just came back from doing some forging and wish i could do some at home but the lack of ventilation where i could do some forging at home is a real challenge, but induction would be a perfect solution to save up for i think. Thanks for your video and impeccable timing! as well as your previous videos :)
Those fittings along with air and water quick disconnects have small ball bearings and springs in them. On Induction units these overheat and fail, causing the fittings to leak. That isn’t an issue with the style of disconnects I carry.
John, Thanks for the demo on induction forging. Now I have a question: I have a heart pacemaker and have been warned to avoid strong magnetic fields as they stop the pacemaker from working (temporarily??). I have also been warned to not exceed 130 amps when using any form of arc welding or plasma cutting. Does the instruction info included with the induction forge have any info regarding precautions for pacemaker folks? Maybe I am just a rare enough blacksmithing guy that the induction manufacturers have not investigated this potential problem. And maybe they have deliberately avoided this issue to limit their potential liability?? Thanks for your many instructional videos and your encouragement for us to get out to our shops and make something. Paul in MN
Are there different coils so you can heat different shapes? Thanks for the clear demo of the induction. Would you consider the start up of a torch and does/don't, the gas fittings and different heads? I'm always leary of back flow...I think there are preventers?
What happened when the piece burned in two and thus dropped onto the coil? Also, what were all the fumes that were being created just before the metal burned through? Thank you for the great video!
Thanks for putting this together. couple questions. Have you made your own coils? I watched a guy bend copper by filling it with water. Do you have any recommendations for tig coolers? The coal iron setup is way beyond my budget. The 15kw model seems to specify 15L/min where the ussolid coolers specify they can do 7.5L/min.
What are the ventilation requirements for an induction forge? Seems like there really isn't anything that would produce fumes, so would this be an option for a shop that just doesn't have very good ventilation?
They don't need any specific ventilation. But some steel has oil or other things that smoke and welding flux can produce fumes, so its still a good idea to have good ventilation
Would you be more efficient if you could afford to have several induction forges with varying size heads? Or would it be better just to use the quick change heads? I know you have multiple gas forges for different jobs.
I enjoy blacksmithing as a hobby. After watching one of your early induction forge videos I purchased the US Solid forge and cooler. I love it! I haven't used my propane forge since I got the induction forge. I found holding material in the forge was tedious. I made a work support system that makes using the forge more pleasant. I have several UA-cam videos on my channel. I will put a link here, but I am not sure it will work. ua-cam.com/video/BkE8Ydm1iNo/v-deo.htmlsi=0o4dwBT9zm2HfU5k
With a closed system like a plastic lined recirculating barrel there is no source of material to cause any appreciable scale buildup. Unless your tap water is straight from the alkali flats there at most will be less than a few grams of condensable solid material in 55 gallons of water. Tap or drinking water has a maximum value of 500 parts per million of allowable precipitatable solids with most local water running at 100 to 300 parts per million. With an open water source, that is one that comes in and flows out never to return, no matter how low the dissolved solid content, scale can build up to appreciable levels. No matter how pure the water which is put into the machine starts out, it will dissolve any soluble material in the plumbing until the level for that material reaches the saturation solubility. A real and much bigger problem with the cooling for a induction heating unit is the galvanic corrosion that occure between the different metals in the unit and the different metals in the cooler. Copper induction coils, brass fittings, steel, galvanized tub set up a battery that eats away the most electropositive metal. When voltage is present on the parts the corrosion rate goes way up. Since most induction heating units in a hoby blacksmiths shop sit unused for most of their life, breaking the electrolyte cooling connection between the metal parts by creating a self draining system is the best way to prevent electrolytic corrosion in the system. Galvanic corrosion is not prevented, only retarded by adding antifreeze or other chemical additives to water. Beware experts pushing additives that tell you antifreeze or distilled water will solve your corrosion problems.
One advantage of induction forging you didn’t mention was its efficiency when working at higher altitudes. The induction forge doesn’t require oxygen to burn fuel, so it heats more efficiently than coal or propane when working at higher altitudes (esp. above 7,000 feet MSL).
Excellent point and not something I had thought about
Interesting! I plan on someday living on some land I bought in Colorado at 9,000 feet elevation so an induction forge might be the way for me once I have a shop.
Thanks John! You've answered some of the more practical questions I had about induction forges that I could never find in any of the spec sheets. I love the romance of the coal forge and it really keeps my creative juices flowing, but sometimes I just need some heat. I'm going to have to work a little harder and maybe Santa will gift me one!
Glad I could help!
John I have heard other talk about a water cooler for the induction system do you suggest to have one or no… why or why not
A cooling system is required. Without proper water pressure or to high of a temp, the Induction unit will not operate
Looking forward to the day I can get one of these up and running in my shop! And great to see the update about the quick change system you're using for your coils, that feels like it would really help reduce the overhead in changing them, so you're less likely to try to get by with the wrong coil just because it's currently hooked up. Great video, thanks!
Love my induction forge you did a great job explaining it
Thanks for showing more on the induction forge John. That was very interesting and appreciated. Fred.
Super helpful as ever, John. I've been thinking about it as coal and coke is becoming virtually unobtainable in Australia. My main worry was the electricity cost, but you have allayed my fears. The ornamental scrap steel hook is spectacular, by the way
While I can still get coal, it is a poor product compared to what was sold a smithing coal 20 years ago
@@BlackBearForge I hear ya! All our coal goes straight to China.
As a non-smith who just likes to make stuff, this was a great intro to the induction forge. Thanks, John! I may just have to look into one!
I just got my induction forge up and running in our house garage this week! Your previous videos, along with others like EJ of the Anvil, were INVALUABLE for learning what would be involved ahead of time. Picked up the same US Solids model you have and their 20L cooler, which has been running great! It's been a dream of mine for years to start blacksmithing and you helped a ton in making it a reality. My first piece was a little leaf inspired by your method that I now proudly carry with me everywhere. Thank you so much for everything you do here and all the advice you give. I hope to put all I've learned from you into practice and continue to learn more as I start my blacksmithing journey!
Glad the videos helped
I'm friends with Terry at Cluaran Forge and he's got a big variety of products available and he's always working on new stuff. The induction forge is a really unique tool and works great for a lot of things.
Thanks for spending the time to talk about the induction forge . I have been thinking of getting on but thought it might be just a waste of money. But now it might just be a money saver.
I used to work on electron microscopes, they used chillers much like the one you described. We used additives, mostly to deal with algae, but I suspect that there are "safe" additives to deal with temperature. One was "Chloramine T". I think simple baking powder was also used (it has been a while, don't take my word for it). Just distilled water would eventually cause issues with algae.
Enjoy the videos. I started in forging with 16K pound Erie steam hammers running on air pressure forging the front axles for the semi-tractor trucks. Since then I've been on all sizes of hammers from 1.5 - 50K as well as all other forging equipment except ring roll forges. The nice thing about induction heat is how much cooler the shop is with it.
Great information as usual,I like the thought of being able to just use something like that for a quick job without having to fire up a forge and wait for it to come up to temp. I really like those quick change couplers, I'd say those are a real game changer. I have a little inductor for heating nuts for my mechanic work but it's only good for about 30 seconds or so and it has a push button to operate it. Thanks for the demonstration!
I am mainly a coal guy, but it is rare that I don't use my induction forge any time I'm in the shop. Easily one of the best additions I've added in a very long time. Cluaran Forge makes great quick connects and coils.
I met Terry from Cluaran Forge a couple years ago when I used to run a small induction melter at a local (Ottawa, ON) school part time. Really nice guy.
John, you make me want one. Forging in Texas in the summer is brutal!
Great informational video. I had my induction forge for about two months and learning how to use it along with what shape coils i need. It is almost like magic heating. Keep up the great informative videos.
I'm still amazed at how they work
Good afternoon John. Nice video, thanks for the tip on the quick change system.
I'll recommend contacting US Solid about your coolant, I was told that they recommend only distilled water, anything else will ruin the electronics in the heater.
Tig coolant is specifically designed to be used in systems that run an electrical current, it will not damage the electronics.
Very informative. Thank You!
As a Career Fabricator, I've done much heating for forming and for preheating for welding and brazing with an oxy/propane tip on my cutting torch. That works okay.
Now I'm retired, and wanting to be a "hobby blacksmith" (just got my first real anvil). Maybe make some gardening tools, knives and welded scrap metal sculptures. (Gongs out of some of the many cylinder tanks in my scrap pile?). Always still be a welder/fabricator, even if just for occasional jobs. Probably won't go beyond a propane forge, with my budget, but it is great to know about the advances in technology. Maybe someday.
Eh, as a guy who used to make induction stovetops for general purposes you did just fine for explaining what the tech does. I used to explain it as "Did you ever make an electromagnet by wrapping wire around a nail when you were younger? Nail got hot, didn't it? Same rough concept just built to take advantage of the heat instead of pick up small metal stuff."
Is it a gross oversimplification of everything going on? Yes. Does it explain the basic principle well enough for people to get the concept? Yes. Thanks for showing us a bit of practical application with induction heating making it into another market!
Awesome video John. Induction is such an awesome tool, this helps answer common questions and dispel many misconceptions.
Thanks, love the quick connects. I did find out that while the coils stay cool, the keys get fairly hot and need to be allowed to cool before swapping coils.
Yes, if you are going straight to a coil swap right after heating this is an issue. I forgot and did this the other day as I wasn’t happy with the coil size and went straight for a swap mid heat. It only takes 30 seconds or so for the cooler running for them to cool. In a typical work process you probably will have this or longer of a pause anyways.
Really cool that this is your talking point this week as I'm currently reading Erik Oberg's " heat treatment of steel" and just got into his section on the benefits of electric furnaces for heat treating over fuel furnaces. Very cool to hear YOUR opinions on electric versus coal or gas forges. Thanks for all the knowledge!
Fascinating machine. Seems to make metal forging much more accessible. I mean, it looks easy. I've never forged a thing in my life, but watching this, yeah, I think I could manage. And clearly, this machine saves a lot of energy. In ways, it's probably a lot safer too.
Greetings from Toledo Spain! 🇪🇸🇺🇸
John, this is a *very* informative video. Thanks for sharing!
Very welcome
Great introductory presentation for induction heating for blacksmithig!
A couple of comments that may be useful:
1. The chiller and associated plumbing for an induction heating unit is likely to cost as much or more than the induction heating unit. For most hobby low duty cycle blacksmith use all that is needed for cooling is a 20 to 55 gallon topless drum lined with a large plastic garbage bag, filled with tap water, covered with a plastic loose lid, and a submersible centrifugal pulp of sufficient pressure and flow for the induction heating unit specification. Putting the induction heating unit on top of the drum makes a very compact system. If done properly all the coolant drains back into the drum on shutdown eliminating the inherent electrolysis problem that is common for water cooled units sitting dormant for most of their life. If higher duty is occasionally needed, draining the barrel and refilling with fresh tap water gives immediate relief for a few pennies of tap water.
2. Like all marketing literature, the power ratings of every low cost induction unit are all pure hype, be it 15 KW, 25 KW, or 50 KW. The power of a loaded induction unit is always lower than the rated Voltage times the rated current. That is: a 2220 volt unit that runs on a 30 amp circuit cannot delivery more than 6.6 KW to the work. In fact it would more likely be providing 5 KW with a perfectly matched coil/work combination. Their hyped ratings are the maximum power circulating in the coil in its unloaded state (i.e. when no work is being heated). When considered it shows how very efficient induction heating is for metals.
Please do not recommend tap water for Induction units. It will work for a while, however the minerals in the water will cause deposits and corrosion to build up inside. Eventually it will clog and cause the unit to stop working. Protect your investment and use distilled water or Tig coolant in colder climates
I use the dynaflux in my Coal Iron Works induction forge and have had no problems. I'm running it straight (it's concentrated), as I'm in an uninsulated open shop in Indiana
Thats good to know. I use it full strength as well, it can get below zero regularly during the winter.
John,
I have the same induction forge thanks to your video several years ago. It indeed works exceptionally well. Great for rhe knife maker besides blacksmithing. As a note, I use Miller brand tig welder fluid for my cooling system.
John,
Would you kindly give me the name of the company that sells the coils with the quick change fittings. I think you said they are in Canada.
Thanks!
cluaranforge.com/collections/all
I am located in Canada, my site is open from the 1st-7th of each month for orders, shipping is approximately mid month. (will be closed in December for a break)
I WANT ONE! But the reality is I've got way too many interests to spend that kind of money on one piece of equipment. As always thank you, John.
Thanks for sharing more about the machine!
I still love the idea, and if I ever move to a home with reliable electricity, it's top of the list of purchases for me
This is a really good review of induction forges. Good examples of the various coil shapes. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
It's also very useful when making knives and ready to quench. Doesn't take long at all.
I have seen that Nigel Barnett at Fransham forge paints his coils with high temp paint to keep them from sparking.
That does help and it's something I keep meaning to do.
I absolutely love my induction forge. I have the exact same setup.
Thanks John I have been known to make purchases after seeing something on your show. like the gloves and stuff but I make way more purchases after some email or something. But I do like what you do. Thanks again for the videos
Great demonstration, John. Thank you very much !
Thanks, muchly for the video. The induction forge makes a lot more sense to me now.
Nice balanced tutorial.
I'm sold. The future of forging. someday
I predict this will be one of your most viewed videos. Great information. In Aus i live in a high fire danger area and i would assume in total fore ban we could still use an induction forge as there is no fire. Win win
Great explanation John, I am not interested in one of these right now but who knows what the future holds. Thanks for the video. Enjoy your say.
Thanks John! Appreciate the insight into this technology!
Thanks for the info . If I had the power needed , I would eventually get an induction forge . However I'm building my shop like your small shop ( for now )
Thank you John!!! You’re an inspiration in ways you can’t fathom Lol I’d love one of those but it’s COMPLETELY out of the budget for my small shop. Answers some questions for sure tho 👍
There is a very inexpensive cooling option that should meet any budget. Use water from your tap. It won’t use much of the cool water that has been underground. If you are worried about flow rate you can measure how long both take to fill a large bucket. I used a cheap hose valve at the business end so I didn’t have to turn it on or off from the faucet while workin
I’ve used it with a cheap EBay kit and it worked great!
Thank you sir, great info as always seriously appreciate it
Nice work as always 👍👍
The main advantage for me with induction would be pinpoint heating rather than my propane forge which just heats everything. But i have a tiny carport as a shop so i wont be getting an induction forge any time soon.
G'day, mate! I've been watching your stuff for a while, and I'm finally ready and prepared to get my first forge. I was wondering if you had any recommendations for a good starter forge? Love the content man, keep it up!
The Chile Forge isn't cheap but would be a great first forge - chileforge.com/forges_tabasco_details.html
Another good choice and more affordable would be the Whisper Baby - www.blacksmithsupply.com/Whisper-Baby-Forge-1-Burner_p_250.html
There are lots of inexpensive gas forges on Ebay and Amazon, but I can't speak to the long term quality.
One drawback of induction over fuel heating is a higher loss of carbon. If your heating with fuel less carbon is going to leach away and noticed even your Iron bar work shifted from wrought black to a grey like of cast iron. Most induction use I have seen has been for controlled tempering or on commercial assembly lines. Would like to see a small scale induction furnace though for recycling common waste items into useable stock such as a stack of steel food cans and lids, might even make a nice fine Damascus pattern with the coatings of chrome or other metals on the insides or if done canister style with lids stacked inside a larger can with filler shavings.
I'll never be able to afford one of these unless I hit lottery. I'll stick to my propane forge for now
Nothing wrong with propane, that is still what I use most of the time
It was very risky and I had to do some tinkering to get it working but I got a 15 kW induction forge and water cooler for 600€ total from a Chinese manufacturer. Wouldn't say its ideal but it is possible.
Black bear forge is the best clear and patient no pretense Thank yo
@@teuncrutzen9172 Vevor has still never steered me wrong so far
They have one for 800 euros. Not accessible for me now, but I trust it to work
They were $6000 - $10,000 about 10 years ago. At $1500 I can't afford to NOT have one. It's already saved that in gas usage. Oxy/ fuel torch gas, that is
Incredibly timely! I ordered one on Friday. 15kw eBay affair with a chiller. About $1000. Got it because I have a machine shop and I use shrink-fit tooling, so it will work better than my previous scheme, but I also plan to forge with it as well.
Looks like Cluaran Forge is closed until November and out of stock on the quick-swap kits. I'm curious what the standards they're using are, as you should be able to get hardware from McMaster and machine them to work the same without too much fuss (though the $90 price for the basic setup is definitely a good deal).
He only takes orders periodically so he can get them filled.
@@BlackBearForge Thank you. Any idea what the standard is?
I’m open for orders from the 1st-7th of every month, shipping is approximately mid month (will be closed for December). I have been working with another individual who cracked the method on the quick connects, there has been a TON of work that went into dialling everything in so that info is 🤫
@@cluaranforge3985 Nice. I've just designed my own version using what look like similar connectors via McMaster. I guess I'll find out how fussy the connections are! I think your offerings and pricing are very reasonable, just seemed like a fun challenge, and I have a machine shop, so it shouldn't be tooooo big of a deal.
Another advantage to the induction forge is the lack of noise. The gas forge is as loud as….heck!
i wonder if quick release fittings for gaming computers would work well here :o the copper pipes are a lot narrower though with an adapter on the end of them it'd be 2 seconds to unclip and 2 seconds to clip on. just came back from doing some forging and wish i could do some at home but the lack of ventilation where i could do some forging at home is a real challenge, but induction would be a perfect solution to save up for i think. Thanks for your video and impeccable timing! as well as your previous videos :)
Those fittings along with air and water quick disconnects have small ball bearings and springs in them. On Induction units these overheat and fail, causing the fittings to leak. That isn’t an issue with the style of disconnects I carry.
Thanks @cluaranforge3985 It's good to hear from someone with more complete info.
Very interesting to know, thanks!
Would you ever consider making a forge welded mini anvil similar to joey van der steeg?
John, Thanks for the demo on induction forging. Now I have a question: I have a heart pacemaker and have been warned to avoid strong magnetic fields as they stop the pacemaker from working (temporarily??). I have also been warned to not exceed 130 amps when using any form of arc welding or plasma cutting. Does the instruction info included with the induction forge have any info regarding precautions for pacemaker folks? Maybe I am just a rare enough blacksmithing guy that the induction manufacturers have not investigated this potential problem. And maybe they have deliberately avoided this issue to limit their potential liability?? Thanks for your many instructional videos and your encouragement for us to get out to our shops and make something.
Paul in MN
I believe they do include a caution for pacemakers. I don't know if they have actually done tests.
@@BlackBearForge Thank You.
Are there different coils so you can heat different shapes? Thanks for the clear demo of the induction. Would you consider the start up of a torch and does/don't, the gas fittings and different heads? I'm always leary of back flow...I think there are preventers?
Partly for the shape, but also to closely match the size of the material. Most new torch bodies will have built in back flow preventers.
What happened when the piece burned in two and thus dropped onto the coil? Also, what were all the fumes that were being created just before the metal burned through?
Thank you for the great video!
I just let off the foot control and pushed it out. The fumes are from the flux. You aren't aware of them in coal or gas.
@@BlackBearForge Thank you!
Thanks for putting this together. couple questions. Have you made your own coils? I watched a guy bend copper by filling it with water. Do you have any recommendations for tig coolers? The coal iron setup is way beyond my budget. The 15kw model seems to specify 15L/min where the ussolid coolers specify they can do 7.5L/min.
Can you change the size of the coils on the forge? They seem very small can’t heat big pieces with them
Yes, you can make coils of different sizes and shapes, but there is a limit on these smaller machines.
What are the ventilation requirements for an induction forge? Seems like there really isn't anything that would produce fumes, so would this be an option for a shop that just doesn't have very good ventilation?
They don't need any specific ventilation. But some steel has oil or other things that smoke and welding flux can produce fumes, so its still a good idea to have good ventilation
Can the induction coil be used to temper blades, or does it heat too quickly?
Yes, they are very good for that purpose. Just turn the power down so it can't get any hotter than you required temperature.
This dude reminds me of Ron Swanson from the tv show parks & rec 🤣🤣🤣
Would you be more efficient if you could afford to have several induction forges with varying size heads? Or would it be better just to use the quick change heads? I know you have multiple gas forges for different jobs.
It really comes down to the space to set up multiples. For the gas forges I have to move one out to set up another one.
I enjoy blacksmithing as a hobby. After watching one of your early induction forge videos I purchased the US Solid forge and cooler. I love it! I haven't used my propane forge since I got the induction forge.
I found holding material in the forge was tedious. I made a work support system that makes using the forge more pleasant. I have several UA-cam videos on my channel. I will put a link here, but I am not sure it will work.
ua-cam.com/video/BkE8Ydm1iNo/v-deo.htmlsi=0o4dwBT9zm2HfU5k
With a closed system like a plastic lined recirculating barrel there is no source of material to cause any appreciable scale buildup. Unless your tap water is straight from the alkali flats there at most will be less than a few grams of condensable solid material in 55 gallons of water. Tap or drinking water has a maximum value of 500 parts per million of allowable precipitatable solids with most local water running at 100 to 300 parts per million.
With an open water source, that is one that comes in and flows out never to return, no matter how low the dissolved solid content, scale can build up to appreciable levels. No matter how pure the water which is put into the machine starts out, it will dissolve any soluble material in the plumbing until the level for that material reaches the saturation solubility.
A real and much bigger problem with the cooling for a induction heating unit is the galvanic corrosion that occure between the different metals in the unit and the different metals in the cooler. Copper induction coils, brass fittings, steel, galvanized tub set up a battery that eats away the most electropositive metal.
When voltage is present on the parts the corrosion rate goes way up. Since most induction heating units in a hoby blacksmiths shop sit unused for most of their life, breaking the electrolyte cooling connection between the metal parts by creating a self draining system is the best way to prevent electrolytic corrosion in the system. Galvanic corrosion is not prevented, only retarded by adding antifreeze or other chemical additives to water.
Beware experts pushing additives that tell you antifreeze or distilled water will solve your corrosion problems.
They are abot 1-2 THOUSAND DOLLARS 😢