Thanks for sharing this very informative video Evan, much appreciated. I am just starting out on my journey with induction heating forging. This was very helpful.
This is truly awesome (not "awesome" like cool, but AWEsome as in stunning and gobsmacking!) -- Thanks! This is such a practical machine, and I am torn between this and a small ribbon burner forge to work on shorter pieces of steel. Just one unrelatred comment, since you seem to be a money saver, I saw your oxy-acetylene outfit there and would recommend you dump the acetylene (expensive, dangerous, and very inconvienient) and go to propane (yep, grill gas) which only requires a different low cost cutting head. I did and never looked back -- very happy.
Thank you for measuring the current and publishing it ! I had my doubts regarding the power rating of 15kW, because I have a 2KW version that heats up similar parts in 2-3 the time you showed. So I searched for a while to get usefull informations. Your measurement results in 30A * 220V = 6.6KW input power. Assuming an efficiency of ~80% , that means ~5kW at the coil. This is 2.5 times the power I do my tests with. So this is plausible. Power Ratings of Chinese products are quite strange. Even the input power calculated by the fuse rating (C63 on the breaker means 63A with C type-trigger characteristics) times the input voltage (220V) comes only close to 14kW. Not taking efficiency into account. To have 15kW at the coil, assuming ~80% efficiency, the device had to draw 85A at 220V from the line. Don't know the situation in the US, but drawing 85A from a single phase line is nearly impossible in a home and small business installation in Europe. On the other hand it's no problem to get it from a standard three phase 400V~ plug, what is actually very common to have here. But these devices are much more expensive. Thanks again !
It’s the magnetic hysteresis in the object to be heated that does the heating. It’s why electrical transformers have laminated cores, to reduce the hysteresis loss.
I found those on Amazon a few years ago when I was building a different project. They are called Lab Jack Stands. Very useful for a variety of shop work.
Your videos are priceless to those of us trying to get up and running with Induction forging. Ive learned a lot in the ones you've uploaded and really appreciate the level of detail. Can you point me to where the files for the 3D printed forms you show in this one? Ive looked high and low and have only seen a few examples in the usual sites. Thank you again!
I have moved away from 3D printing forms because it isn't worth the time to make them unless you are in production mode making a lot of the same coil. I can send you the file for the small one I did if you want, but honestly I have found the pancake coil to be better at heating smaller stock / the ends of tapers. A good trick with bending forms made with softer materials like plastic or wood (or ones with channels for the tubing) is to make the middle removable, so you can collapse it and pull it out of the coil. I've learned that 'unscrewing' them can be quite the hassle. I've been meaning to make a follow-up video or two, I've learned a lot more since I made this. Also apologies to everyone with questions here I didn't reply to, I wasn't getting the notifications and have been pretty bad about checking back here.
Great video! I only just found it. I actually published a similar video on my own channel a few months before you, though I focus a lot more on the theory and less on the actual operation of the machine. I like your pancake coil with the standoff - I'll have to make one myself!
Of information you gave in one place and dispel some the rubbish advice too. I am just learning about forging but see induction as the way forward for me, hopefully.
Evan, My induction forge is here and I thought I would get some materials for coils. When you give a tubing size, is that nominal size or actual OD for instance 1/4" tube is actually 3/8" OD. Which makes it seem pretty likely its the actual OD that matters. Also, is the flare 45 degree or 37 degree. Thanks again for the video.
Sorry I missed this John. Sounds like you got it up and running though. You should come to the November RMS demo - Scott and I will be talking about induction heating and demo making some coils etc.
Not so much with helical coils, but with one sided coils like the pancake coil you definitely can. If you short the coil it will often make a spark, but will not shock you.
Hi check my channel, maybe i have a video of your problem. But first I would recommend to open the machine and look for anything burnt. Next maybe the diode is broken. You may have a clogged copper line, check if the water is coming from the coil. Next see if there is any crack at the solder weld inside the machine behind the thighening nut. Good luck
Great video, thank you! I noticed you don't use the fiberglass insulation on your coils. Any reason? Are you just practiced enough and have steady enough hands to not touch the coils while heating?
Hi check my channel, maybe i have a video of your problem. But first I would recommend to open the machine and look for anything burnt. Next maybe the diode is broken. You may have a clogged copper line, check if the water is coming from the coil. Next see if there is any crack at the solder weld inside the machine behind the thighening nut. Good luck
Americans that I know do pronounce it correctly, but they don’t emphasize the “L”. If it’s in spelling, it’s always corrected by some spell checking person. All “techs” know what it means.
You can - if you have enough volume and pressure. A friend did this and would run the machine while watering the yard, plants etc. Doesn't seem like a good long term solution though, especially if you live out west or where water is precious.
@@evanblackstock4921Nice! Thanks for the reply and making this helpful video. My house is on a private well system and I have a water line in my garage. Putting together the cooling system seems like a lot more me. Running continous water through it seems so much easier.
Thanks for sharing this very informative video Evan, much appreciated. I am just starting out on my journey with induction heating forging. This was very helpful.
Best video I have found on this process!!!
To soften the copper- anneal it- quench after it gets hot. It is the opposite of steel- it hardens with slow cooling and softens with quenching
This is truly awesome (not "awesome" like cool, but AWEsome as in stunning and gobsmacking!) -- Thanks! This is such a practical machine, and I am torn between this and a small ribbon burner forge to work on shorter pieces of steel. Just one unrelatred comment, since you seem to be a money saver, I saw your oxy-acetylene outfit there and would recommend you dump the acetylene (expensive, dangerous, and very inconvienient) and go to propane (yep, grill gas) which only requires a different low cost cutting head. I did and never looked back -- very happy.
Sand is an option for stopping pipe collapsing while bending. As long as gas can escape you can also heat sand-filled tubing.
Thank you for measuring the current and publishing it !
I had my doubts regarding the power rating of 15kW, because I have a 2KW version that heats up similar parts in 2-3 the time you showed. So I searched for a while to get usefull informations.
Your measurement results in 30A * 220V = 6.6KW input power. Assuming an efficiency of ~80% , that means ~5kW at the coil. This is 2.5 times the power I do my tests with. So this is plausible.
Power Ratings of Chinese products are quite strange.
Even the input power calculated by the fuse rating (C63 on the breaker means 63A with C type-trigger characteristics) times the input voltage (220V) comes only close to 14kW. Not taking efficiency into account.
To have 15kW at the coil, assuming ~80% efficiency, the device had to draw 85A at 220V from the line.
Don't know the situation in the US, but drawing 85A from a single phase line is nearly impossible in a home and small business installation in Europe. On the other hand it's no problem to get it from a standard three phase 400V~ plug, what is actually very common to have here. But these devices are much more expensive.
Thanks again !
Having a hard time finding the correct metal works website for the 8mmx14mm flare nut. Will you share a link or specific website to buy these nuts?
What kind of water pump do you use for cooling and can you recommend brands.
500 bucks amazing....it is amazing because you can weld with electromagnetic waves...futuristic..thank you for this great video...
It’s the magnetic hysteresis in the object to be heated that does the heating. It’s why electrical transformers have laminated cores, to reduce the hysteresis loss.
Do you have to hook this up directly to your bracket box or can you put a plug on the end of it to plug it in
31:53 where did you find that table top riser thing?
I found those on Amazon a few years ago when I was building a different project. They are called Lab Jack Stands. Very useful for a variety of shop work.
can it holding a temp at spesifik degree like a oven furnace Sir
If the piece included an industrial grade temperature sensor that’s built into the driving circuitry. An electronics circuit designer could do this.
Great video Evan. Very informative.
Your videos are priceless to those of us trying to get up and running with Induction forging. Ive learned a lot in the ones you've uploaded and really appreciate the level of detail. Can you point me to where the files for the 3D printed forms you show in this one? Ive looked high and low and have only seen a few examples in the usual sites. Thank you again!
I have moved away from 3D printing forms because it isn't worth the time to make them unless you are in production mode making a lot of the same coil. I can send you the file for the small one I did if you want, but honestly I have found the pancake coil to be better at heating smaller stock / the ends of tapers. A good trick with bending forms made with softer materials like plastic or wood (or ones with channels for the tubing) is to make the middle removable, so you can collapse it and pull it out of the coil. I've learned that 'unscrewing' them can be quite the hassle. I've been meaning to make a follow-up video or two, I've learned a lot more since I made this. Also apologies to everyone with questions here I didn't reply to, I wasn't getting the notifications and have been pretty bad about checking back here.
Great video! I only just found it. I actually published a similar video on my own channel a few months before you, though I focus a lot more on the theory and less on the actual operation of the machine. I like your pancake coil with the standoff - I'll have to make one myself!
Awesome!!! Really very good video, thanks for sharing
Evan, thank you for sharing this video, I do already subscribe to EJ and the anvil (very good videos) I like the huge amount
Of information you gave in one place and dispel some the rubbish advice too. I am just learning about forging but see induction as the way forward for me, hopefully.
if it takes 30amps why does it say Single phase, in Australia Single phase is up to 15amps, with 30amps being 3 phase ?
Hi, can we heating smaller dia below 3mm with 15kw machine
Evan, My induction forge is here and I thought I would get some materials for coils. When you give a tubing size, is that nominal size or actual OD for instance 1/4" tube is actually 3/8" OD. Which makes it seem pretty likely its the actual OD that matters. Also, is the flare 45 degree or 37 degree. Thanks again for the video.
Sorry I missed this John. Sounds like you got it up and running though. You should come to the November RMS demo - Scott and I will be talking about induction heating and demo making some coils etc.
This video is very useful to me,
as im looking for solution to replace a gas forge.
Can it weld cold rolled metal whose thickness is .24mm and mode 30 to 60
Can you feel magnetic force when it is heating? Like does it center itself in the coil? Can it shock you? Good thorough review
Not so much with helical coils, but with one sided coils like the pancake coil you definitely can. If you short the coil it will often make a spark, but will not shock you.
But why does it not shok one and is the cooling water also safe?
Would this method work with graphite molds to melt silver grains / shot into bars ?
were can I get the panncake coil?
Thank you for the video
I have one like this but when i push start for heating the over current LED light and it can't heating
Hi check my channel, maybe i have a video of your problem.
But first I would recommend to open the machine and look for anything burnt. Next maybe the diode is broken. You may have a clogged copper line, check if the water is coming from the coil. Next see if there is any crack at the solder weld inside the machine behind the thighening nut.
Good luck
Estimado.Podría por favor indicarme como fabricar un flexible para conectar las espiras de caño de cobre?.
Great video, thank you! I noticed you don't use the fiberglass insulation on your coils. Any reason? Are you just practiced enough and have steady enough hands to not touch the coils while heating?
The fiberglass burns away quickly. It’s rare that it’s useful. Just be careful.
Sir I have this machine
But now it's showing over voltage indicator
How to eliminate this kindly guide
Hi check my channel, maybe i have a video of your problem.
But first I would recommend to open the machine and look for anything burnt. Next maybe the diode is broken. You may have a clogged copper line, check if the water is coming from the coil. Next see if there is any crack at the solder weld inside the machine behind the thighening nut.
Good luck
You’re a smart and well spoken person, could you explain why Americans miss-pronounce “solder…soLder” as soder?
Americans that I know do pronounce it correctly, but they don’t emphasize the “L”. If it’s in spelling, it’s always corrected by some spell checking person. All “techs” know what it means.
Great Evan,
how far can i move the inverter out.
i was looking for 10 m away from a dangerous environment
..
Why can you not just connect a hose and run fresh new water through the machine?
You can - if you have enough volume and pressure. A friend did this and would run the machine while watering the yard, plants etc. Doesn't seem like a good long term solution though, especially if you live out west or where water is precious.
@@evanblackstock4921Nice! Thanks for the reply and making this helpful video. My house is on a private well system and I have a water line in my garage. Putting together the cooling system seems like a lot more me. Running continous water through it seems so much easier.
Price koto
5000 c in