Casting an Aluminum Handwheel using Sodium Silicate
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2021
- Casting an Aluminum Handwheel With Sodium Silicate in the foundry workshop. Follow along and see my wins and failures as I cast handwheel for my number 4 Greenerd Press. This project will start to finish on the casting side of things including machining and broaching an installation of the handwheel.
check out the US Navy foundry Manuel
mmsallaboutmetallurgy.com/201...
or
www.hnsa.org/manuals-document...
#foundry
#machining
#casting
#aluminumcasting
#aluminum
#backyardfoundry
#diycasting
#rapidtap
#manualmachining
#restoring
Great video, and you'll always be "learning as you go", and there's so many of us out here doing the same thing, but most of us just don't have the time or inclination to try and document these processes..., like you're willing to do!
Earned a new subscriber, Brother!
Stay well, stay curious, and always be willing to share!
Tampa, Fl area subscriber.
Thanks walter ! :)
That’s come up a treat mate. All that pre-work was well worth it. 😀
Thank buddy
Final part Looks great! good video Sir. I don't have any experience in that style casting but plan to someday. Cheers
Thanks . I learned a lot along the way . Looking forward to the lost foam like you are doing . Looking to do belt buckles next week
You're a craftsperson mate. Your knowledge is more immense than those lecturers in an arts/trade school. Way to go!
Thank you :)
Other than using a steel crucible (and perhaps unknowingly setting a bad example), great job. Lessons learned are way more useful to the learning process than projects that go perfectly, and by extension, your viewers may learn more as well. Using your arbor press, sans hand wheel, to broach a keyway in the handwheel for itself is a little ironic and maybe a taste of the future where robots are making more robots. Lol. Thanks for giving props to the Facebook group and being secure enough in yourself to leave the mistakes and failings (and fixes) in, instead of just editing them out as others might. Again, good job! Subscribed.
Hey troye thanks for the constructive feed back , its always apriciated . I will make a mention of the steel crucible in the next video I'm casting in for sure .
Great and interesting video. It looks like you had great success and lessons learned for your next attempt. I look forward to seeing more videos.
Thanks john look forward to seeing the 45 ton press converted to electric/ hydrolic
Amazing effort, well done. Really enjoyed watching this, very inspiring, thanks.
Your welcome , I'm planning on another cool one involving making a thread dial.from scratch .
Currently I'm cutting the gear for the lead screw, then I'm going to make the shaft and dial . Followed by making a wood pattern of the body with core , then casting and machining it .
@@Wrighmachining I would love to see that. I'm just gearing up to start casting things, so it's nice to see people further along showing us what is possible!
The quality of casting fits the machine exactly lol. Would never guess it's made not by manufacturer :)
Yes , it was one of my first experiments with casting . I later found lost foam casting and found it to be way easyer . I did another hand wheel but had way better detail amd less issues
Rural King store has a medium grade sand that does great. Its very fine. I bought a small cement mixer for mixing adhesive sodium bentonite and it really mixes it all fast. You can get this mixer at Harbor Freight stores. It really does a quick job of mixing. I use talc for parting.....I have good luck and hardly any blow holes in the castings...
Thanks for the sugestion . I will have to do the talc for sure . Im in canada so rural king is not here :(
I am always on the look out for better samd when im in the building stores or the like
well now that i know that the board piece you added 1:00 can work, that will help.
Lol , some times you just have to improvise :)
Thanks for the feed back buddy :)
Petrobond casting-sand is a good value when looking at the labor saving, improved finish, and re-usability. The sodium-silicate trick is great thing with delicate and intricate casting, but not necessary on this one. The sand choice was bad. I thought you should have gone a little crazier with your spoke design so that everyone who sees it, notices that it is an unusual and a unique thing and that it is not a mass-produced thing from China or the Philippines made by child-labor. Pretty cool, and you got the job done!
Thanks for your constructive impute john, yes petro would be better . I will get / make some at some point so many projects so little time :) I'm just experimenting at the moment as well . Before then however i will be playing with lost foam with a basic dip (plaster )
@@Wrighmachining If you are going to do investment casting then you should probably use the lost wax method. After you melt out the wax, and then pour the metal you will have much less smoke. Lost foam casting uses sublimation of the foam but it smokes a lot and the fumes are probably dangerous. I think you would be happy with the finish with just the petrobond sand and the foam. You can get very accurate parts with good finish, but you have to understand degassing and metal shrinkage. You could get a lot of pinholes and internal stress if you don't, and the cooling and annealing can be important. I need to get to my casting project.
@@johnlennon335 whats your project ?
Not much is out there about Potassium silicate. Would you consider making a video on "double water glass" (an equal parts mixture of potassium silicate and sodium silicate)?
Hey thank you for the suggestion . I know very little about that process . I would have to do a bunch or research on that.
Hi. Very Interestin. Would you know the exact formulation of the sodium silicate used?
Good question Andrew it says in books i have read about 5% by weight but it comes down to the quality of sodium silicate you have and moisture of sand. Realy though if your close ( you noticed i just free poured it ) it will work . To much and its a wast amd possible y not setting up or the heat doesnt break it down and its rock hard at the end of casting . To little and it dosent set up of course.
@@Wrighmachining Thanks for the reply but what I really meant is, seeing that Sodium Silicate can refer to Sodium Metasilicate, Sodium Orthosilicate and the 'Water Glass" Sodium Silicate, I was wondering what the molecular formula of the one you are using. Thanks
@@TUCANO9HUMF oh yes sorry . It is water glass . It was purchased from a pottery place in a 5 gal bucket. They use it for decrative coatings . One lady used it for her work amd showed me and the out side had a cool crackle look to it , an older lady she went on to say that tbey used to use it years ago to preserve eggs as well . But I digress. Hope this helps . I would have gotten you a manufacture lable but was unlabled when i got it other than a hokey safty lable and sharpie writtem on it
I don´t have a way to infuse CO2, does it also bind up after some time on the air or does it take days ?
You will have to experiment with that it could in theory as there is small amounts of co2 naturally in the air. or perhaps leave a test sample in a bag with baking soda and vinegar mixed off to the side . In theory it would generate co2 gas and over time permiate into it. So long as you don't get it wet with the vinegar can't see why it would not work ( in theory ) I think oldfordboy on UA-cam makes cores like that. Perhaps check him out.
@@Wrighmachining Thank you for your reply. Does the sand hold it´s shape after heating up to about 250°C or does it crumble with temp ?
@@sierraecho884 it will hold shape once set and will tolerate heat to a certain point. I wish I know more. If you experiment t with that could you let me know the out come ?
@@Wrighmachining Sure, my goal is to do lost cast with zinc at home with regular home appliances with undercuts but without the use of the typical investment plaster with burn out cycle, this so just too much for home DIY.
I found a couple of things I want to try.
1. fire proof spray paint (up to 800°C) So I will coat a PLA part with it, dribble sand in between coats to build up thicker layers kind of like one would do with suspenda slurry and then burn out the part in a kitchen oven.
2. High temp sealant (from a caulking gun up to 1300°C) and then covering the master PLA part with it with some sand as well burn out etc.
3. High temp castable refractory. This will be for way later.
Petro bond is good but until they reduce the cost of it, I will stick to green sand castings.
Yes its pricey stuff
Ya did a half decent job, but I'd invest into a 3d printer to make some risers that are a bit more precise than just hand punching them into place. Something you can pack the sand around. Also a sand "PACKER" to help make sure your sand really gets into around the part.
Thank you boosted .Good call on the riser . I have a router and should take your advice on the risers and gating system . I want to build a over under style so it traps the sand before it flows into the cavity
The 3d printer is on the list. The budget it low at the moment I just got a neje 40w laser in the mail and have to install and cut gaskets with .
@@Wrighmachining Sovol SV01 has been doing the trick for me so far.
Co2 fungsinya untuk apa
Bagaimana jika hanya menggunakan sodium silicate ?
The function of CO2 is to harden the sodium silicate. See you to activate some kind of chemical reaction. Sodium silicate on its own May Harden over days or months left in the Box due to Natural CO2 in the air. But it may not give you optimal results
Certainly matches the pedigree of the press.
Thank you :)
everything that could go wrong, went wrong in this video ...
Haha, well its of learning along the way :)