How to Replace Radius Arm Bushings | 1995 Ford F150
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2018
- So on late model Ford Trucks (pre-1997), the suspension had radius arms. In this video, I show you how to replace the bushing attached to this radius arm.
🚧Link below for radius arm bushings👇
amzn.to/3DAaGgS
#obsf150 #radiusarmbushings #broncos
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Welcome to The Minute Masters UA-cam Channel where I (Stevie) show you how to repair and upgrade all Ford F series trucks and Broncos from 1980-1997. So hit that subscribe button and be ready to resurrect your baby!🤙
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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To any torque freaks like me that might see this, the torque spec on the:
Radius arm bushing: 80-120 ft-lbs
Front shock absorber stud - upper: 25 - 35 ft-lbs
Spring retainer: 13 - 18 ft-lbs
Axle pivot: 120 - 150 ft-lbs
Thanks man! I appreciate you putting this year!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters no probs, I've got access to the service data, I just like to see a video of how it's done if I can, so I appreciate the vid
@@censorshipsoldseparately612 Nice! Service manuals are great for that info. Thanks🤙
You saved me dude.
I'm a halfway decent mechanic but I've never changed any of these bushings before.
My questions had to do with the procedure and you covered that.
I was able to change mine, no problem.
Thanks for taking the time to inform people like me.
Great to hear man! These bushings aren’t the most straightforward to replace. I’m glad I was able to help ya out. Thanks for watching!🤙
glad you broke up all of the different suspension component replacements into separate videos, great series
Daniel Whitworth Thanks! I’m not a big fan of long videos and I like people to get right to the part they need to replace.
Yeah man good video it helped me get my 93 explorer fixed
Thanks to your video I got my 67 F100’s radius arm bushings replaced! Thank you for going into great detail, this is the best video on this that i found!
Colt Williams You’re welcome!🤙 I appreciate it man! Glad I could help you out! Thanks for watching!
I remember doing those at the ford dealer back in the mid to late 90s. I just remember taking the nut off and using a big bar to pry it out. We would slam bam stuff and move on. I think i used a snap on impact swivel so it had more power then an extension.
Thanks for the great info,im performing the same task tomorrow on my 94 explorer,but before I go to all the trouble of putting her up on jacks,ill make sure I can get that stubborn nut off.
Nice! As long as you get that nut off, it's all down hill from there! Good luck!👍
Thank you for an informative video on an older truck. It's surprisingly hard to find info on jobs like these.
Justin Banks No problem man! 🤙 You are right. There are fewer resources for these trucks anymore.
Thanks for this video, I made the mistake of thinking I should change these on a 93 f150 Im fixing up. Wish I would had the sense to look up your video before I started the job, lol, but thanks to your video I’ve got it whipped now. I will sub your channel for sure!
NoOneSpecific No problem man!🤙 These bushings can be difficult to change without a little research. Glad you got the job done! Thanks for watching!
You don’t need an impact gun to remove nut from radius arm. Spray penetrating fluid a few days before you’re going to work on your truck. Mine came off super easy with a 20” breaker bar while laying in my back in gravel. 👍
Good point! I couldn’t get the correct leverage on my radius arm nut. So I opted for the impact gun.
The plastic spacer is to go on the back when you have a raised section on the hole it stops the rubber chopping out on that raised lip.
That’s what I figured. My spacers are still in there. I which someone would make them out of steel or aluminum. The plastic can break when you tighten these poly bushings down.
About 15 years ago, I rebuilt my 68 f100 entire front suspension. Here are the mistakes I recall that time may have distorted. I decided to drop my whole drum brake front suspension and replace with stock front suspension and brakes from a power disc 1974. I can’t recall if I had to have spindles altered in any way. But, my biggest error was dropping it all and trying it all. This all struck me, and I’ve been watching videos, as I’m about to buy another 68, as I’ve regretted selling mine years ago.
The 68 I’m looking at was pulled off the road due to long distance camping use and well over 200k on the stock front end. The pivot bushings touch no where on either side. So, I know I need total rebuild. THIS time.....I’m going to grind those pivot bracket to chassis rivets heads off and use air hammer to knock out rivets and replace with grade 8 hardware. And, I’ll do one side at a time.
Another mistake, reusing stock coil springs. I’ve done this on a couple old cars being cheap and it’s bit me and I’ll spend extra for new springs on next total front end rebuild.
Definitely a good plan man!🤙 Spend good money on a set of coil springs. In my opinion, Moog and ACDelco are garbage.
Great video, thanks I feel confident taking on the 94 bronco
Thanks man!🤙 You’ll do well! Thanks for watching!
Nice video...I would like to mention that most professional front end guys drill out or grind off the rivets holding the radius arm bushing bracket and replace them with grade 8 bolts. You can then do this job in a fraction of the time.
Thanks man!🤙 That’s what I’ve heard as another method. I wasn’t sure if Ford techs did that too.
Still took me a day
1hr 30 to do 1 side without drilling rivets it would take that long to get the rivets out let alone go buy correct bolts
Sometimes if you're lucky, you'll have a truck that already has the rivets replaced. Mine were and it's a 1978. I had to replace the bushing and discovered it was so far gone by the time I bought the truck, I had to replace the bracket and radius arm. Luckily the donor was also bolted in.
I torch the head off those rivets. Once the rivets are gone and replaced with grade 8 bolts, this is a job that can be done very quickly and literally in the parts store parking lot
This is my task for today.. Thank you the directions.
You’re welcome man!🤙 Good luck!
Dude thank you so very much ive learned so much on my 84 f150 by watchen you videos they are a great big help and motivating me to successfully fix my truck 🤘😎🇺🇸
You are most welcome Clyde! 🤙 I appreciate it. Thank you for watching! Keep that 84 running!
@@TheMinuteMasters oh yea lol ima keep it goen long as i can idc if i gotta weld patches all over for rest of my life ima keep it around
@@clydeashley2345 You and me both! Lol
Good job Thanks for the lesson.
Done 101 No problem! 👍 Glad you enjoyed it!
I am not doing a F1 50 I worked on a Ford Ranger did the same job on a ford ranger 1991 and this helped Wish I would’ve watch it completely because I didn’t remove the sway bars. Made it a little hard
Andrew Burns Yup! They do have the same suspension! Glad it helped ya!👍
If you do not use the spacer, the rear bushing will get torn by the lip on the radius arm bracket. You can get the washers and spacers from Ford. They are not that expensive.
Kenny Lee Johnson Yeah I ended up using the spacer. Not matter how I feel about the design of something. I always repair it to OEM spec just to be safe.
I didn't use the plastic spacers when I replaced mine yesterday I left my truck up on the jack stand which was on the frame and then I used the jack on the actual radius arm once I took the nut off to better control the arm as I put on the new bushings.
Those end nuts are really tough. Got mine done last fall. I sprayed them down....heated them with a torch....and then had to go back and forth with the impact gun....and they finally let go. Took me a few days to figure out how to loosen them....lol. Toughest nuts I've ever had to loosen on the truck....a 1992 Ford F250 5.0.
I did the same thing. It’s the only way to get those nuts off.
Nice! 🤙
The 4x4's aren't quite s easy. I went thru all the steps and still wound up grinding out the rivets. could not pull the radius arm forward enough. about 1/16" was all I needed, lol. Great video!
Rick Knight Thats what I hear. It only budged 1/16th? Did you unbolt the axle pivot bolts for the I-beams?
Thanks man!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters No, all I needed was for it to move 1/16" more to remove it. Those aren't very flexible.
Rick Knight Ah I see. Yeah they aren’t at all.
Rick Knight
you need to pull the spring and shock off then its easy!
Really clear and useful!
Thanks man!🤙
Thanks for the video your a life saver
Charles Hill No problem man!🤙 Glad o could help ya out! Thanks for watching!
"kinda set it on fire a little bit"
subscribed.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
I did my 1980 f150 4x4 this day so. Passenger side. The beam would not drop down and it was a mfer to get the radius arm back in. I’m doing drivers side tomorrow and I’m definitely grinding or drilling the rigors out.
Well at least it tells you that your I-beams are solid as well as the brackets.
Nothing wrong with going with the grind off the rivets method.🤙
Thanks for the vid!
mega catares No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Good video, i just did mine, thanks!!!
Brian Chan Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!🤙
I tried using a 29mm socket with my standard 1/2" breaker bar since I didnt have a 1-1/8 and it worked... surprisingly easy. Yes not optimal but it broke torque and took the nut off. Pros of having a desert truck I guess.
Also, I was having a night mare getting the radius arm located with the axle dropped from the pivot. I decided to run the bolt back through the axle pivot to help locate it, put a ratchet strap to the other radius arm and put tension on it then walked it in by working it up and down with the jack. Real headache getting it all located in place correctly but that worked best for me.
Getting the nut started on that radius arm once the new bushings were on is also a pain in the cock but ratchet strapping the axle to the transfer case crossmember to pull tension backwards and then jacking the axle up real high worked to help me get the nut started. Just some tips for any other guys with 4x4 axles.
Good to know man! Thanks for sharing!🤙
Thanks for vid i didnt know the name of the parts. I have bolts in the base so it can be un bolted rather than dropping spring..
No problem man!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out. Are you saying the radius arm mount is bolted on? If the radius or mouth is bolted on you can just unbolt it slide it off replace the radius arm bushings and put it back on.
Thanks for that... saved me some stress. Cheers.
No problem man!🤙 Glad it helped ya out!
1992 Bronco's are gone, I mean not there. Thanks for the video!
No problem man!🤙
My son is now 16 so I played : 43 to 47 over and over hahaha
🤣🤣🤣
I try not to laugh when he said bust a nut 😂
😂😂😂 Years later, I’m still making people laugh! Lol
I did this tonight without dropping gthe inboard axle bolt. Ratchet strapped my axle to one of my bumper bracelets
Nice! There are ways to get around pulling the axle pivot bolt for sure.
Thanks much. It helped me find the problem. One of mine is shot i just found.. Thanks again.
You’re welcome Gary!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out.
@@TheMinuteMasters My 1983 f150 just blew one of those out totally.Must have been 40 yrs old. Hope to follow your video steps when i get a new bushing kit nest week. Im 68yo and try to keep it going. My last vehicle was 76 dodge aspen i bought in 2001 and it lasted me 19 yrs, but lots of repairs.. . Thanks for your videos. Welldone.
@@garymahon1955 I’m sure you will replace the bushings just fine. It looks more intimidating than difficult. Good luck Gary!
I leave it all intact except for the radius arm itself. I take the cotter pin out, the nut off, remove the rearward washer, and bushing. Then I use a come along to pull the radius arm forward to remove the front bushing, and washer. I then reinstall in reverse. Not that many steps. I changed radius arm bushings on a 1973 F100 (pre F150) lasted over 15 years after that.
I’ve heard of that method. It seems like it gets the job done. I had one guy comment on here that he tied his radius arm to a tree and just backed up. Lol
F100s are cool! My dad and kid brother both had one.
Dammit man! You really make me believe I can do this! Took my 95, F250 by a shop and was quoted $500 for the radius arm bushings and alignment. Second shop wouldn't quote it over the phone. Told me to bring it in. He warned me it would be two to three hours before he could get it on the rack to look at it. The truck only has 92k miles on it. He's probably going to want to do ball joints, tie rods, blah, blah, blah. Fixing to call one more shop, then off to the parts house. 😢This is gunna suck. It's hot in Texas. Plus, I'm old😂
Oh, I think a lot of people are capable of doing this project if you have the appropriate tools. Is the truck 4 x 4?
@@TheMinuteMasters no 2wd. Oh, I got tools. No lift though. Hard for an old man to get on and off that creeper. I gotta ball joint press. Guess I'll have to figure what size sleeve for the pivot bushings. Doing pivot and radius arm bushings. Been driving a long time not knowing what the problem was. Thought it was break issues so I rebuilt everything. Still bumping around. Thought it might be the rear end. Pulled the cover and looked. Nothing. Was under there and my driver side radius arm bushings was blown out. Going to get it on stands, tires off and tools staged up for early morning start. Appreciate your help bud. Your a good man, proud of you.
@@jayfromtexas6718 Ah! That makes sense.
If you have your truck up on jack stands, it’s a good time to do all the bushings.
Nice! That’s how I have to do all my repairs because I DD my truck.
Thanks Jay! I appreciate it!
Well done!
Thanks man!🤙 If you need any other suspension help, I’ve got more videos about it.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks
Good job
Thanks man!🤙
Hell yeah!! I did not want to take off the damn exhaust to get to the bolts on passenger side
Yup!
YOU MUST...BE ABLE TO BUST THIS NUT...LMAO!!!
Ambrose 🤣🤣🤣🤣 🤦♂️
Yeah. I cant. Im gonna saw it off. Or beat it with a hammer all day.
Great video. I like how you give us alot of close ups of the parts your talking about. Were those 2 ton floor jacks you were using? Why did you have one on the other axle pivet arm in middle; might bend it? Can you give us a close up of the jack stand because i wanna match the height counting the tabs ik everyone might hv different tires sizes. And you can zoom on your tire size too. Thanks
ThaHandyman1212 Thanks! I think they are 2 ton jack stands. If I remember correctly I bought them from a chain auto parts store.
I put one jack under the I beam near the axle pivot bushing and one under the frame so the suspension could fill decompress. The placement of the jack stands won’t hurt the suspension or frame one bit.
As far as height. The jack stand under the frame was extended as far as it could go and the one under the axle pivot bushing most likely was fully extended.
Yeah I have 31” tires on a 15 in wheel.👍
Hope this helps!
An FYI, the other side (passenger side) gets all the heat from the exhaust causing the components to wear more rapidly... In town driving is far worse for the passenger side because the cheap tin shield doesn't offer up any protection, it was made only for higher speeds as a stop gap as the heat is carried away by the air movement...
Good point!
I just hooked the truck suspension to a single wide trailer house, broke the nuts loose too one thread, put the truck in reverse, took off the nuts, replaced the bushings and then drove it forward, noticed it back up, took less then an hour, you’ll need some one to back it up
Ryan S I have heard of this method and I’ve heard people using a big ratchet strap hooked to a tree to pull the radius arm out of the socket. Definitely, speeds things up!🤙
The plastic part is there for a very good reason. I cannot believe you say it is your choice to or not to use it. The plastic piece goes on the MALE part of the hole and then flat side of bushing and then washer.
I found out later that that plastic piece is needed to keep the metal from rubbing and destroying the poly. I just don’t think I they can handle the torquing down of the nut. They seem to break on everyone.
Remember EXTENSIONS REDUCE torque. Use the shortest distance to remove nuts and bolts on TIGHT FOR YEARS. Torch the rivet heads off, knock bracket off with hammer. Tap rivet remaining with center punch. Install new bolts
This is true and removing the rivets is the fastest method for sure. I wanted to do it the way a traditional shop would.
great video except for the jeweley that you are using; as a pro autotech i can tell you that there's a slide difference, while you are working in suspensions, in conserving your limbs intact until you turn old enough to tell every one about your experiences with it, sometimes they have unnexpected reactions to the repair procedure you are doing, like when you are replacing coil springs, leaf springs, struts/ mcphersons, or even rebuilding power boosters or heavy duty air brake caging brake chambers, fifth wheel rebuild, or even pto service
because every day we're working with more sophisticated and faster technical repair equipment, like your milwakee impact gun, the chances to have an accident are higher now than before
during my earlier life experiences with repair/ service procedures in the automotive industry, early in the 1980s, i used some jeweley myself on my hands, then i started to have bad experiences with it: a ring got toasted on a battery terminal, a bracelet got engageg with a moving fan, a wrist band was trapped by a steel clamp, and also a lond sleeve got engaged with moving pulleys from an engine in motion
at automechs school, my automechanics teacher used to tell us all the time - while we were working on cars, be organized, keep your eyes and ears open to any hazards in your working environment, and always apply all safety practices you have learned to stay in one piece, lol 😄 - and that are life savers i think
im retired now, with a few scarfs but complete in one piece - still working but on private projects, but my teacher's words still fresh and alive in my memory today and every day i open a hood or i raise a car
peace bro 👍
rubber MALLET Great read and very well written! Thanks for sharing!🤙
As of late, I’ve stopped wearing any rings, watches, or bracelets while working on my truck. I’ve seen pictures of de-gloved fingers.😖🤮 That was it. Lol No more jewelry. Besides, my watch doesn’t get banged up as much too.
My latest PPE obsession is wearing eye protection. I was told by a mire senior guy that you only get one set of eyes and there’s no replacing them. All the dirt, metal, and rust that falls on your face while working under an old truck is annoying already. So between no jewelry and eye protection, I hope to live a longer more “intact” life.
Keep raising awareness for us young guys. Not enough of us are taking adequate precautions on the job site or work space to protect our health.
The Minute Masters bro, you have taken the right decision by stopping the use of unnecessary jewelry while performing automotive tasks
regarding your watch, just remember this, it is harder and stronger than a wrist band and may cause more personal demage or huge economic losses - just saying, bc i've seen those accidents on different shops
👉 one major thing that you must be aware of its inminent danger are cars with steel fans or cars with conventional frontal engines that have fans mounted in front of the engine bay, these fans some times have broken shrouds or not shrouds at all, so when you are testing them - lets say you are accelerating / raising rpms - these fans some times expands and if you have your body on top of it the fan will cause a deep/ profuse cut that may make you bleed to death
a guy that i know, used to be an experienced carburator mechanic, did that mistake and got a deep cut under one of his arms - he lasted 15 minutes alive, when the paramedics arrived he was dead already
remember: keep your eyes and ears open all the time and you'll make it to the end for sure
good luck bro 👍😁
rubber MALLET Damn! I knew those radiator fans were hazardous but I never heard of fatal accident like that.
I’ll definitely keep my eyes and ears open. 🤙
The Minute Masters i could probably tell you about many other serious accidents caused by people neglecting basic safety standards while on duty, but that will be a different story, but i can cite a few
for example, a tire man in the middle of the jungle back in the 1970s refused to obey an order from our boss in a heavy duty repair shop - we used to repair cats, macs, peters, magirus, heavy duty equipment etc inside the jungle, the boss told him to leave alone a very expensive super huge tire that got flat on a road accident, that tire was from a caterpillar giant truck - the really big one - the boss had to go to do something to the city so he left, the tire man took advantage of it and without hesitation he installed a huge tube into a tubeless humongus tire! .. and while he was inflating it, its outer safety ring came out loose and exploded loudly, blam! the ring barely touched the tire man's forehead but that was more than enough to open his forehead in two pieces and while he was alive his brain started to show up through his wound - that was very scary to watch - he was suffering for almost 3 weeks before he passed away 😵
it happened early in the morning, around 8:30 am, at about 10 feet from were i was into my boot to get some tools 😭
and i saw countless, very stupid several deaths, limbs getting chewed or amputated by moving parts while feeding it with material from different machines or bc they were caught by leaf springs that bounced back from jack stands and they have their hands holding it, people being struck by big garbage trucks against the shop main door bc they forgot to apply the parking brake on, or mechanics running behind a big semi, people loosing their sight because hoses, batteries or radiators exploded - that is why its a good idea to use googles 😎 all the time, use gloves of any kind, working shoes and not too loose clothing 👉 and be alert all the time
iow, never trust your environment, always be alert, test it again and again - specially heavy equipment being suported by jack stands or hoists, and finally, while you are slow, clean your working area, wipe out the grease out of your hoses, clean your tools, restroom, floors, trash cans, offices etc 😷 - just keep it clean lol 😁
rubber MALLET Wow! You are a wealth of stories my man! I love it. The scenery is great too. “In the jungle” makes it sound that much lore exotic. Fantastic examples of why safety is important. Tire man story is something else. I think a danger to personal safety is people not thinking they even tire rubber cab cause trauma to the body.
I’m big in cleaning. I’m always reorganizing job sites and work areas.
I just removed both radius arm nuts with a 1/2" breaker bar no heat no torch. Used breaker bar until was loose enough then used 1/2" ratchet with cheater. Wasn't that bad but definitely easier with impact.
I guess that’s what you would need to do to get that nut off.
Nice video. One of my rivits is gone, driver side front. Does anyone know what size bolt goes there?
Thanks man!🤙 I don’t know off the top of my head what size bolt. But you could buy a couple different sizes and just experiment with what fits the best.
If you go to autozone you can actually get the bushing in a kit. It 10.99 for both side. Comes with washers spacers and all.
Dillon Nelson Nice! That’s a way better price! Good to know!
The Minute Masters you're welcome. I just bought some today
Dillon Nelson Awesome! Good luck with the repair!👍
The Minute Masters thank you man. Mines 4x4 but I have a little different plan of attack.
Dillon Nelson Yeah 4x4 is definitely a little more difficult.
I’m gonna replace the whole arm on my 95 2wd f150. What is the front side of the arm connected to? Is that the bolt going into the spring? I’m also replacing the brackets too so I didn’t have to drop anything.
Nice!🤙 The radius arm bolts to the I-beam using a very long threaded bolt. The top parts of the bolt is what the spring is bolted to. The head of the bolt is on the underside of the radius arm. It’s gonna take a heck of a lot of torque to get it out. Be as prepared as you can for a tough bolt removal.
Do you have a video on cab mount bushings? Those are about the only bushings I have left to replace. Thanks
Unfortunately no. I’ve only replaced the radiator mount bushings and I never filmed that.
It's also a f150 4x4 which makes removing the radius arm bushing harder. I'm working on it now.
ThaHandyman1212 Yeah it’s definitely harder. The front diff makes the I beans heavier and the front drive shaft has to be disconnected.
Thank you
You’re welcome!🤙
Hey nice vid. My bracket has bolts instead of rivets, and bracket is destroyed and needs replaced. Can i fix it without messing with the wheel assembly? Ie unbolt bracket and pull it off. Im not sure if the radius arm will be in my way but it seems like a simple job. Some metal is bent over the big nut and its rusty.
Attack Shovel Thanks man!🤙 If you bracket is held on by bolts you can simple remove them and unbolt the radius arm nut. Then the radius arm bracket should come off without messing with the wheel assembly. I’ve never done it that way but guys message me a lot about that method.
As a professional mechanic, that was the only way we did it. If they are still riveted, drill them out or use a cut off wheel, etc. Saves a lot of time over disassembling everything.
i have a negative camber and a guy told me replacing the bushing would fix it, i think i have that camber due to my springs being heated to drop the truck but supposedly the springs are still good what should i do
I would install adjustable camber bushings or at least get an alignment with the camber bushings you have. I have a video on how to install adjustable camber bushings. They are a lifesaver with TTB and I beam suspensions. I had positive camber issues.
Hello! I'm in the midst of replacing my radius arm bushings for my 93' F150 and I've followed the steps all the way up to putting the radius arm back into its slot with the new bushings, but I'm having a bit of a crisis! The sway bar is getting in the way, I can't get the arm back in the slot for the life of me! I'd really appreciate some guidance, as soon as possible. Thank you again!
Hi! Did you disconnect the sway bar?
I really appreciate your video. But I think i will just cut the rivets off and then bolt it back together
Wyatt Klingensmith Thanks man!🤙 Nothing wrong with that method! Good luck!
I got the $11 autozone kit but the large bushing is too big, I couldn’t get the nut started, it currently has x4 outer bushings seemed to install ok, someone said to shave 🪒 the bushing down rather confused. One of my brackets had a huge crack across it so I patch welded it until I get a new one.
Gmguy3car Wow! You definitely have all the interesting circumstances. Cracked bracket and 4 outer bushings is rare. You’re going about it the right way though. Good luck man! 🤙
Well like I said it wouldn’t install, the x4 outers nearly matched the factory on heights etc, can’t have my only vehicle down for parts, I bought two kits cuz it said two required but then I saw a guy install what looked like the exact same kit using one kit, Bracket had rust helping the crack get worse.
Gmguy3car Gotcha. I think raybucks.com sells brackets and I think atstruckspring.com.
Hi, Thanks for the vid. I have to do my bronco II nxt week. I am just wondering about that white spacer? Shouldn't it go on the other side? Gonna search the interweb to confirm. I ordered those red ones too. Thanks
Looks like Big cupped washer > big bushing > spacer (only fits one way on big bushing)> thru bracket < little bushing < smaller washer < nut
So is that the same order as I show in the video?
done mine with channel locks and Lil 💪
Damn! Good for you if you can do that!
I just did this job with moog bushings but 2 of the plastic caps cracked before i can reach torque specs. I followed your video, any ideas?
I ran into the same issue. So I never torqued it to full spec. I thought my plastic cap broke because the poly bushings were harder. Sounds like this is an issue either way.
Hi! We want to buy the silentblock for a Ford Explorer 4.0 XLT, can you tell me where can I find it? Thanks a lot ! And good job!
Nuria ABELLAN COSTA hi! So I’ve never heard of that part being called a silent block, but my research shows you are looking for a leaf spring bushing or a A arm bushing.
Otherwise, here’s a link for a part labeled as silent block: www.uatparts.com/silent-block-bushing-for-ford-ranger-explorer-f-e-series-vans-d3tz5781a/
No problem! Thank you!🤙
I just did this on the drivers side of my 96 F150. Could not pull the axle far enough forward. Cut off the bracket rivets, dropped the bracket. I used MOOG k80007 thermoplastic bushings. What did you torque the nuts to? Haynes manual says 80-120 ft-lbs. I have not reached 80 yet and the bushings are getting squeezed pretty hard already. Don't want to split them.
The trick is to unbolt the axle pivot bolt which gives the axle more room to move. But you used the other method which is good too.
I didn’t torque to any spec. As I was torquing down the nut, the white plastic spacer piece cracked and fell out. So I decided to just snug the nut on as much as possible until I felt like it was good. It’s been there ever since.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks! I just snugged it up until the threads started to protrude the nut. These thermoplastic bushings are much denser then rubber. Drives great.
@@charleetho No problem Charlee! That’s pretty much what I did. They are solid bushings for sure and they drive great!
Hello sir. I'm doing upper and lower ball joints on 94 f150 2wd with the u shipped knuckle. Can't get the lower ball joint to drop.do I need to remove the snap ring on lower ball joint? Help ty
Hi Jimmy, so the ball joint isn’t fully seating into place?
I have an F3 50 and I put a 2 inch lift I believe I need to replace these bushings when I put it in reverse the whole truck squats down when I put it back and drive the front of the truck starts to raise
It’s an 97 obs
So my truck does that too. I think it’s the nature of the twin I beam suspension with coil springs. Although, your have coils? Most 97 F350s are leaf springs.
@@TheMinuteMasters Yes it does have coil springs I’m almost ready to pay whistling diesel to take this truck LOL JK
@@jacobpalma9709 Gotcha. What 2 inch lift did you use?
Otherwise, I wouldn’t worry about it squating after reverse. If you haven’t replaced any of your bushings it is definitely worth doing. It does eliminate a lot of the slop associated with the twin I-beam suspension.
@@TheMinuteMasters It was some cheap eBay lift just the blocks back and front
I used a 1 1/8" socket on my 1" Craftsman Ratchet in conjunction with good ole WD-40, they came off like they were removed before...
Nice! Proper tools and penetrating oil is always the trick.🤙
What will happen if the pro theme bushing completely falls apart it happened to my f150 the bushing is gone it’s broke apart and I’m worried if I can even drive it anymore till it’s replaced
You can drive without out the bushing. You ride will suck and you could risk the radius Arm pulling through the bracket.
I have a 1990 Ford F-150 5.0 xlt lariat I was going for alignment at shop after replacing my steering rods. Mechanic said i needed to change radius arm bushings because when i go reverse the top of both front tires go inward bottom of tire goes outward. I think my shocks r the culprit. When i squeeze shock it opens up very very slow. What u guys think? All replies welcome. Thank you
ThaHandyman1212 Yes! You definitely want to change the radius arm bushings before an alignment. If the shocks are slow in rebounding, then replace them too. You can do the bounce test also. My rule of them is if the shocks are original or from the previous owner, replace them.
Shocks don't have any effect on the Alignment .
Your bushings will affect the Alignment .
I got same moog kit
I got my bushings from autozone, they came with everything but a new nut, by the way. Anyone getting ready to do this might try getting them there, they are that same red material and come with the bowl shaped washer, the white spacer, and the rear washer , just no new nut.
NoOneSpecific Nice! I never tried getting them in store. Good to know.🤙
Do you just let the coil spring and shock droop and put em back where they belong once its all done? All of it seemed easy til it came to putting that spring and shock back
Chris Abeita Yup! You got it! Getting it back together takes some finesse but is still easy.
Awesome!! So just put em right back were they came from, gotcha, i appreciate the snappy response man youre awesome
My prothane bushing kit came with all those other pieces includimg the plastic.
Really? I guess the energy suspension doesn’t feel like supplying them.
@@TheMinuteMasters they probly just want you to have to come back in a year or less for another set of bushings. I just did mine tonight.
@@SHOINOFF Yeah probably lol.
I used a huge breaker bar...aka steel pipe, broke the end off the radius arm. Opened up a whole can of worms.
Damn!
Man you did that the hard way
Yes, I could’ve ground off the rivets and remove the bracket. But I want to do that repair like a dealership or local shop.
It’s the clonking noise from when you’re at a stop, then accelerate right? Did the noise go away? I’m having the same problem 94 f150 2wd
Inty But A clunking noise could be a couple of things but yes generally it’s the bushings being worn out. My clunk occurred when I went over rough roads.
Mine was the infamous slip yoke clunk. Installed a zerk fitting and greased it. Problem solved.
Hey Stevie, how do you know when you need to do this? When i look at mine, they look OEM, i just dont want to throw money at something that isnt a problem.
If you can physically move them with your hand, a jack, or prybar, then they need to be replaced. if they look intact, and the rubber isn’t cracked, then I’d say they’re still good as well.
You should use silicone grease on rubber and poly.
I used the grease that came with the bushings. Are you suggesting silicone geese over lithium?
@@TheMinuteMasters I don't know about lithium, but silicone doesn't degrade rubber or polyurethane.
I have used "silaramic" brake grease for ten years with no degradation on poly bushings.
@@corvairkid17 Yeah that’s what I’ve heard.
I’ve never heard of that type of grease. I’ll have to look it up. Thanks for the tip!🤙
Hey Steve, when you put the big nut back on does the front tires have to be on the ground or can you tighten it with tires up in air and how tight do the nuts have to be. I also noticed my passenger side nut is screwed on more than driver side.
Hi Alex! You’ll want to put the nut on and snug it next to the bushing while you have everything off the ground. Then you can lower everything back to the ground and tighten it the rest of the way. I’ll have to check my Haynes manual, but I think the torque is like 140 foot pounds. I never talked mine down that much because I felt like it would crack the plastic bushing that is part of the assembly. So far so good but who knows. Maybe there is some unnecessary looseness to my assembly.
@@TheMinuteMasters hey thanks again....very much appreciated... 👍🏾
@@alexlewisiii6654 No problem Alex!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters 👍🏾
I'm doing this right now, it's a fucking nightmare! Next time I'm just grinding those rivets off and replacing the brackets🤣
🤣🤣🤣
@@victorreyes2135 mine was a 4wd lol i couldn't get both shafts to go back together the way they came apart so i disconnected the main shaft and all the needle bearings fell out. I crawled around forever finding them. Took a whole day to finish. Live and learn i guess.
i know what you mean with that nut, i beast moded mine off with a breaker bar . it was no joke.
Yeah I was going to try that but I didn’t have a big enough breaker bar. I believe you though. It was hard enough to get it off with an impact gun.
The down side to the prothane is you feel the road more Ford had a reason for those soft rubbery bushings..also if they are wearing unusualy fast ..rear breaks weak over working front torqueing ..bad shocks..
Damian DeLapp You know people say that but I didn’t feel any difference switching from rubber to polypropylene bushings. To me, these truck ride rough due to not having enough travel and good shocks.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have poly on the radius arms and on the axle pivots in my 79 F-350. I can't tell a whole lot of difference in how it rides but it does drive a lot better than when the bushings were getting worn out. Mine were not terrible when I changed them either.
@@DaveMcLain I completely agree. I feel like the whole “harsh ride” comments about poly bushings are the product of a Pro vs Con article that a key board mechanic wrote.
Why don't you call the tech line from the company you ordered the parts regarding spacer or no spacer?
Edil Leon You know what, that’s not a bad idea. Although one commenter says that without the spacer, the bushing wears out faster.
If you have an air hammer and a chisel bit cutting the rivets and replaced them with nuts,bolts and lock washers with plenty of red locktite is the way to go will save you a tremendous amount of time and labor and is safer.
Definitely much faster! I did it this way because it’s technically the “unbolt-it” / shop manual method.
Does anyone have any idea how to reinstall the passengers side radius arm and ibeam? I have a 94 ford ranger with the exact same setup. I removed the radius arm and ibeam to replace all the bushings but for the life of me cannot figure out how to get it back in. The passengers side axel pivot bracket has a bottom piece to it so you cant just slide it up from the bottom. Any advice is appreciated!
Did you put the radius arm in first and then the I beam?
@@TheMinuteMasters Theyre all one assembly, but yes thats how i was trying it. With the radius arm through the hole I cant angle the I-beam into place. The passengers side I-Beam bracket has a bottom to it so you cant just slide it up from the bottom.
Dan James See if you can slide both in at the same time. Otherwise, I’d try cutting the bottom out of the axle pivot bracket.
Good afternoon friend, answer me something this support that holds the steering rod arm of the ranger 97 v6 manipulated can be cut and left only where the screw holds the rod arm and leave it with the f150 if I'm not mistaken, to improve the maintenance of the bushings pulling what could you tell me being an automotive maintenance professional thank you if you can help me.
The support that holds the radius arm can be removed by cutting the rivets off and installing new bolts in the same holes. It makes the repair faster and easier.
@@TheMinuteMastersGot it, I wanted to cut or remove it, and leave a sound where the bushings go like it's on your truck would be much better, good if it can be done as well as yours I appreciate if you can help me I'm from Brazil I have ranger 97 v6 stx extended, or get this information if it can be done this changed and it will not harm, because if you see there are 2 platters with less than 1 meter. Thanks in advance for your attention.
@@rhonnymarques6560 You can definitely do that.
I don’t know what you are referring too about 2 platters with less than 1 meter.
I always use a come along and pull it forward one side at a time
That’s a good method too!
Same here. Decades ago on my 1974 Western Auto used a HUGE HONKIN' pry bar to "wiggle" the radius arms out of the brackets, no need to take all those other components loose. OR BREAK THEM. OOPS.
same problem on my 2000 lincoln continental FWD and not one shop will tell how to fix
kevin lockhart Really? I didn’t know Lincoln continental’s had twin I beam suspension with radius arms.
@@TheMinuteMasters it is front wheel drive and there is a steel rod with giant rubber bushings on both ends it goes from the strut rod support through the frame and bolts on as it exits similar to the one in your video except mine stays round like a rod
kevin lockhart Gotcha! That’s really interesting! Well I hope my video helps! Good luck!👍
I have a 94 F 150 my Truck has all bolts in my Blacket For my Radius arm . Do I have to take my Spring and shock loose to remove this bracket .
If the radius arm is completely bolted on, you can just unbolt it. I would just make sure there’s no weird tension on it that would cause the radius arm to spring downward.
Thank you for your time and your videos.
@@leonbrazell6958 No problem man!🤙 Thanks, I appreciate it!
Con un martillo de aire corta los remaches y no tienes que quitar todo el control arm
Estás en lo correcto.
I screwed up,I thought you said take the back rear tire off an pull the axleholl, to bust the nut,,,, I don't have enough extension to reach the nut on the.radius arm,,
Lol I would buy a couple of extensions. It’s worth having them.🤙
In the ranger xlt 94 this work is mlre easy because the back perch has bolts and discconect the shock and ist make more fast and easy work. I see that this model ford has remached the back perch.
Anyway is Litle more work. But is ok.
Juan Ramos That’s cool! I wish the F150s were like that. Yes, this model does.
What were the right torque specs? Having a prob with that.
If you are replacing the bushings with stock rubber bushings it’s between 80-100 ft lb of torque. With the polyurethane bushings is a lot less because they don’t compress as much. I tightened mine down until I felt like it would move and I didn’t crack the white plastic spacer piece.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you so much. Really appreciate a reply back. This helps alot.
@@desarieamezcua4780 No problem!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Does that require a front end wheel alignment
Not usually but if your bushings were really bad it’s probably not a bad idea.
How are those shocks holding up ?
You know what, I’ll have to check. I think they are good but my truck has a lot of front end bounce.
Do you need to remove the axle pivot bolt in order to complete this job?
MrBaeza1994 If you can pull the radius arm out of the bracket enough to replace the bushing, then you don’t have to remove the axle pivot bolt. I just think it’s easier removing the bolt to do the job.
The Minute Masters alrighty thanks again dude!🤙🏼🤙🏼
The Minute Masters just finished the job. I couldn’t pull the arm off on the drivers side because I didn’t have the right socket, but I had to force and pry the arm out and do the same to place it back in. It was pretty tough without removing that bolt and it also damaged the hell out of the old pivot arm bushing, would definitely be best to remove those bolts. Thank you for the video!!
MrBaeza1994 Nice! Well I’m glad you got it done man! 🤙 Good job!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Definitely remove the pivot bolt. I just did a complete front end rebuild on my 95 f150 4×4. Even if you can get the radius arms through the bracket it doesn't allow enough threads to put the bushings on and bolt the radius arm down. I learned that the hard way
the napa pcchb1495k is the red ones you have and the hardware form the other kit! buy it and only buy one kit!
Dodge Ram 01 Good to know! Thanks man!🤙
Where did you purchase this kit??
I think I bought the kit from Amazon but you can buy them from just about any auto parts supplier. LMC truck sells them online.
Where did you get the parts??
Good question! Here’s a link👇
shop.broncograveyard.com/1992-1997-Ford-Bronco-F-Series-Truck-Radius-Arm-Bushings-Red-4wd/productinfo/33012/
Might as well have changed the pivot bushings with prothanes as well
I actually did that first a year before I made this video.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters ok cool