Timing belt replacement by a Toyota master tech
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2022
- In this video i will go over how to replace a timing belt on a 2008 Toyota 4runner with a 4.7 liter v8. This will also apply to a Tundra and sequoia with the 2UZ-FE 4.7L.
Recommended tools:
Milwaukee electric impact: amzn.to/3DeYKSn
Milwaukee electric ratchet: amzn.to/3TNmi84
IR air impact: amzn.to/3Ubzymq
Box end wrench: amzn.to/3N8vAJd
Socket set: amzn.to/3ziYZe0
Coolant funnel: amzn.to/3DCelN8
Flashlight: amzn.to/3Nh6JTA
Hood light: amzn.to/3DcRrKU
Parts:
Timing belt kit: amzn.to/3N9DWA2
Coolant: amzn.to/3TVTjit
FIPG: amzn.to/3zmuAvm
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
00.00-Introduction
00:48-Wheel removal and coolant draining
01:24-Remove fan shroud and intake
02:26-Remove hose and fan
05:45-Thermostat housing and top cam cover removal
09:51-Set timing before removal of belt
12:33-Remove fan bracket
14:06-Timing check and timing belt removal
16:17-Removing water pump assembly
18:30-Installing water pump and wire harness
20:32-Compressing tensioner
21:27-Checking all Timing marks and belt install
24:57-Checking Timing after one engine revolution
26:09-Installing lower cover and crank pully
28:37-Installing alternator, tensioner and power steering pump
30:56-Installing Thermostat housing
32:23-Installing oil cooler lines
33:40-Installing fan and shroud
37:36-Installing battery and verifying vehicle starts
#shoptimewithdrew #toyota #howto - Авто та транспорт
Tackle my very first ever timing belt job on my 2001 Lexus GS430 because of this awesome video. Thanks to Drew, I knew exactly what I needed to do and was more than confident I could get the job done. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and keep up the good work.
Wow, big thanks, this is my first super thanks. Much appreciated.
Omg i was doing some research and i couldn't find a good video but ur comment gave to confidence to do it on my 2001 lexus gs430 did u use this video? Only
THIS IS THE BEST TIMING BELT TUTORIAL ON UA-cam FOR 2UZ-FE 4.7!!!
Thank you! That it means a lot.
I wish more techs like you existed. A lot of dealers don’t care to pay for competent techs , so customers get subpar service and headaches. I hope you’re getting paid at least in the ball park for your good honest work. Thank you for the video, sir and may your life be good to you.
Thank you very much. I can't complain at this time.
Thank you for video and detailing the timing marks on the belt and the use of the "T" marks on cam covers.
You are welcome. Thank you for your positive feedback.
Great video! Used this whole thing as a visual guide on my 4Runner
Thank you. I'm glad the video was helpful.
Wow amazing job explaining every detail. One of the best timing belt videos I have of ever seen!
Thank you, that means a lot.
Thanks so much! Best explanation of timing marks, and most efficient way I have seen it done in videos. Most people completely remove the alternator (without replacing it) as well as fully unbolt the a/c compressor. Great trick bending that bracket instead of unbolting the compressor. Thanks again.
I'm glad you liked the video, and it was helpful.
Not sure if I should have done that when I replaced the fan pulley or if it mattered. Doing that was half the labor of that of the timing job.
Ya, there is not much left after taking the fan pully off.
Hey Drew - phenomenal video - THANKS! I've been putting off doing the timing belt on my 2006 4Runner. But I finally decided to do it and essentially used your video as a step by step guide and it turned out to be the easiest timing belt job I have ever done. THANK YOU!
Thanks, I'm glad the video was helpful.
Outstanding video! Straight and to the point.
Very knowledgeable. Thanks!!!
Thank you for your comments. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your video. I have the Factory Toyota Manuals on my 2006 Tundra. To set the timing before removing and replacing the Timing Belt it states the following: Turn the Crankshaft Pulley approx. 50 degrees clockwise past TDC, and Align the timing mark of the Crankshaft Pulley with the centers of the Crankshaft Pulley bolt and the NO. 2 timing belt idler pulley bolt. If it is done this way , it will be a little further past the "post" that you used on the lower timing belt plastic cover and the "T" mark on the Cam backplate. I understand the bottom line is relieve the Tension on the Cam so that when you remove the belt it does not "rollover". Thanks and great video !!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the comment. Great right up of info.
Thanks God, he is the one clearly showing all timing marks where should be before removes timing tensioner (50° ATDC) and timing belt then clearly explained where all timing marks should be (With new timing belt installed) after new timing tensioner extended (TDC). I have been watched lot of UA-cam clips for 2006 Tundra SR5, 4.7L V8 along with reading instruction came with Aisin kit part #TKT-021, more clips I watched, less confident on myself 😂 eventually I think I will go with Aisin’s instructions which indicated apply to 4 Runner 4.7L V8 for only year from 2003-2004, Land Cruiser 4.7L V8 from 2003-2006, Sequoia 4.7L V8 from 2001-2008 and Tundra 4.7L V8 from 2000-2008. Now after watched clip of Shop Time With Drew, only 38’19” but I have more than enough of courage and confident to replace timing belt and water pump for my 2006 Tundra DC SR5. Could take me 2 days but I got plenty times because I retired 😊. Thank you so much Drew, I am sure lot of guys out there appreciated you also.
Thank you very much for the positive comments. My goal with my videos is to provide as much help as I can. Hope your timing belt job goes smoothly with no hiccups.
Just did my 07 4.7 at 172k miles- factory belt looked good but I definitely was pushing it waiting so long. Appreciate the tips! BTW, setting to the “T” marks worked fine.
I'm glad the video was helpful. Thank you!
This is my favorite you tube channel! This is the best 2UZ-FE timing belt video that I’ve seen! But the position of the timing plate is not mentioned and thought it’s an important detail. Again, my absolute favorite for Toyota maintenance, thank you!
Thank you, this means a lot to me. I am hoping to do an updated video that's shorter soon. That just hits on all the key points. Things that I have gotten questions about through the comments. Thanks again.
I love this video. I’m start my t-ten this fall!!!!!!
Nice get your ASE's while you are there, and you will come out a expert technician, and after a year, you could be a master. Good luck with school.
I am literally in the middle of doing this job on my 07 4Runner 4.7. Not only that, but also have to replace the pass side cam seal that is leaking too. Going to do both sides while i am at it even though driver side isn't leaking...yet. Also going to do the crank seal and timing belt/water pump even though they aren't quite ready for replacement yet. Prior to taking on this job, i've watched several videos, some good, some not so good. Just stumbled across your video today and i must say it is one of the better ones. So thanks for taking the time to video it and post it out here!
Thank you this means a lot to me. I would of liked to add how to do the cam seals in this video but these were not leaking. If you have the same cam gear style like in the video you will have to pull the whole cam out. Don't forget to lock the scissor gears with a bolt.
How did the job go and how’s it holding up?
Pro tip from a 25 year ASE: spin all idler & tensioner pulleys and fan support bearing listen for any noise at all or free spin like no grease. If found, replace that component.
Mark all alignment marks with a white paint marker. On the crank mark a mark at 12 o'clock on the pulley & block for easy reference. Even if the belt is marked.
Very good video!
I'm still gonna pull my radiator on 2006 Tundra to fit
my 1/2" Impact driver for crank bolt(will be replacing that).
Changing alternator job is a little bear flying solo.
Well done.
Thanks for the comment the only extra steps to get the alternator out is the 10mm for power and one connector. You have to pull the alternator to the side to get the tensioner off. Hope that the job goes smooth for you.
@@shoptimewithdrew Thanks Drew.
The only under hood issue was Alt going at 78K on 2006 Tundra so loving that! Have replaced , drain&filled or bleed/flushed every fluid and runs smooth, so imaging stretching job to 140-150K.
Got whole Aisan Kit ready and waiting in case stars align earlier.
Loved you coverage of not only when but WHERE the job requires correct disassemble/assembly order.
One things for certain, it will be YOUR Vid I refer to First.
Subscribed.
Stay Well
Thank you so much it means alot to have the support.
@@notsojingo7355 Am at 102K currently.
Excellent video. Getting ready to do one of mine (I have 2 v8 limited t4r's lol) and I will slate a whole weekend for it since my days of making money turning wrenches it over.... Since the 4th gen has a known failure of the Evaporator I will be curious if you ever do a video on one. I have a failed unit and dread that project lol..... Nice work- smooth and easy....
Thank you for the comment. Just take your time on the belt and you will be fine. For the evaporator I don't know If I will ever get the chance to do a video on one. All I can recommend is have 3 different bolt/screw containers so you can keep all your left side, right side and center hardware separate. There is a lot that goes into it. Wish I could be more help but it is a lot of steps to say in a comment section.
Great video, first time I see someone actually explain the timing marks correctly. I have done this twice so far on my Sequoia. You don't say how hard it can be to remove the crankshaft pully bolt. The first time I did it, I used the air impact driver and was about to give up when it finally started rotating, it took so long, the socket was hot to the touch. The metal bracket on the alternator is held on with one Philips head screw, why bend it with a prybar?
Ya, the pulley can be a pain to get off. I just bend it out of the way for speed, and sometimes those screws are rusted in and don't want to come out.
Fantastic!
you get a subscription and a like from me. I have scoured all the online videos doing this job and hands down you are the best. Clear instructions and tips that the average DIYer needs to complete this job successfully. I will be reviewing your video before any 2UZ FE timing belt job. Thanks for all the work and effort that went into this video.
Thank you, it means a lot to me. Thank you for your support.
Thank you for posting this video, I'm wondering for cam seals replacement on vvti engine, what marks should I align to (TDC or T) before going further in the valve cover and the cams marks.
Please keep posting videos on this legendray truck and wish you best of luck!
Thank you! You want the mark to be at the T. This way, the pistons are slightly down.
Thanks for clarifying the "T" mark.
Great video. The only thing I can add is you can remove the camshaft position sensor with the driver side timing belt cover and not have to deal with the wire grommet.
That is true.
Best video right here! Thank you for explaining the “T” that’s where you put it when CHANGING THE TIMING BELT.
Most of the other videos don’t do that.
Keep up the good work 👍👍
Thank you! I'm glad you found value in the video.
Hello Drew, thank you for the video, this is my second time changing the belt on my 02 tundra, On setting the timing mark on TDC some rotate the crank to the 0 before taking off belt, i went with you're instruction, wondering why they are doing this.
The zero is top dead center for cylinder one. The mark after the zero is after top dead center cylinder number 1. If you put it at this mark, the piston is slightly down, so there is a lesser chance of piston and valve coming in contact.
Invaluable video. Helps to know you’ve done this before and cleared up several questions I had. I am amazed how clean you got the water pump interface. I used a brass wheel but it still had the former gasket stain even though smooth. Also the pump kind of popped over the lubricated O-Ring when installing. I hope it didn’t move. Any thread lock used in pulley bolts?
Thanks for the comment. I don't use any lock tight on any of the bolts they didn't come from factory with lock tight, so I feel there is no need. After you get done, take it on a good test drive and then check the valley between the heads and verify that no coolant is leaking at the cross-over pipe.
I just had mine done. 2001 Sequoia. Around $1100 p&L on so. cal. I chose a lexus/toyota shop. Glad I did not try to do it myself..worth the money IMO. BTW my engine had about 123,000 on it. No I won't be worrying so much driving up the 5 from LA to SF.
That sounds like a good deal in California. I'm glad you got it taken care of no more worries.
@@shoptimewithdrew I love my Sequoia. If they ever outlaw that V8 they will have to pry it from my cold dead hands.
Ok to reuse timing belt tensioner If there are no visible leaks? My aisin kit did not come with one
Yes, you can reuse the tensioner.
When i was putting the belt on the left cam moved back so i tryed cranking it to line up with the T and it jumped so did 2 revolutions on the left cam to line it back up did i mess this up
As long as all the marks line up with the belt on you should be good.
Can u do the i do the crankshaft seal too?
Does aligning it with the "T" apply to the non-VVT 4.7L as well?
It works for both styles.
@@shoptimewithdrew thank you! I wasn't sure cause all the other videos just use the TDC line. Never the "T"
Would this method work for the 01 sequoia? Thanks for this very informative instructional video!
Yes all 4.7 are the same only difference is cam gear design. It will either be variable valve timing or not.
Thanks!
I viewed your video because I will be attempting to do the job on my 2005 Sequoia 2UZFE 4.7litre over the coming weekend. I ordered the Aisin kit but now I am a little confused because their instructions advise that after finding the TDC to turn the crankshaft 50 degrees ATDC. THis contradicts your method of moving it to the T mark on the camshafts and the mark after the 0 deg TDC. Which is correct? Thanks for your reply. Your video is Great and it gives me a degree of confidence, I just want to clarify so that I don't mess things up.
I think the wording in their instructions can be confusing. The T mark is after top dead center. Top dead center is if you put the crank to the 0 mark and the hash marks on the cam caps. If you set it to the T mark, it is less likely for the cams to possibly move. If it is set to top dead center, there is a lot of valve spring pressure causing the cams to rotate.
Thanks for this. In the middle of this job now but am at a stop regarding if I should use my impact or not to tighten the crankshaft bolt. If I do say tighten it pretty well with the impact, will be hard to know if I get the correct 180lbs and then throw a torque wrench to check the lbs l, would this turn the timing belt out of wack or do you think it would be locked in at that point?
Using an impact is fine. If the tensioner pin is pulled, then the timing will stay the same.
Will give it a go - thanks!@@shoptimewithdrew
How did you keep the crankshaft from turning when you removed the crank bolt? Did you use an impact to take out crank bolt?
If you are having trouble, you can break the bolt free and then turn it to top dead center. Then the crank won't move when you break the bolt free the second time.
Can the timing belt be realigned to the correct position after I already test ran the engine with the new belt incorrectly installed?? I’m a big money saver and DIY’er and didn’t see this video until after already incorrectly completing this job. Once I noticed the first test start up didn’t feel or sound right I shut off the engine ignition and called it a night.. what do you think??
Sometimes, it can bend valves on this engine, but I know people have had luck re doing it, and it running fine afterward. I would give it a shot if I were you. Set the crank to the zero mark or the dot just past the zero mark. Pull the top covers and see how far you are off. If it is slightly off, you can pull the tensioner, and it should give you enough slack to rotate the belt so the cams are correct. You do not use the marks on the belt because the covers will be on. If you want to use the lines on the belt, you will have to remove everything and start over. Hope this helps.
How do u fixed jumped timing I gotta 2000 tundra and it jumped timing and if I line the crank up none of the pulleys line up on the marks their suppose too do I jus take the belt off and put the pulleys to where they line up on the marks and put my new belt and stuff on I’m so stuck rn I can’t find no videos on it and nobody ik will help or even know what to do and you def have had the best video I could find yet please help meeee
How far are they off? Do you have Instagram? You can send me photos.
Thank you so much for sharing was wondering if it took 6 or 7 hours
If it is your first one I would give your self 7 if you have a decent Backround with wrenching.
I can do them in 3.5 to 4
I am about to do this in few weeks
Hope the video will help you out.
What did you use to clean away the old gasket and the crankshaft? Thanks
I just use light grit sand paper, razor blade, roloc disk, and brake clean.
Should you take the spark plugs out when doing this job or no
There is no need to.
Do you set the timing marks at TDC or on the “T” marks to prevent the cams from rolling?? Please let me know I’m going to do mine on my 07…
At 10:50 in the video it explains were to line the marks up at. I would set it at the T mark.
@@shoptimewithdrewok thanks
Sorry I missed that part
Great video! Quick question, on my 07 tundra I had the timing belt break at idle and am gonna take a chance on new belt. Do I need the crank at TDC compression or can i just align the cam n crank factory marks?
Not sure what you are asking with factory marks? Do you mean on the factory belt?
Not the belt, just align the timing marks on the cam gears and crank gear. Basically I’m worried the crank is 360 degrees off. Sorry never installed timing belt before
The best way is to pull the number 1 spark plug and stick the oil dipstic rod in and see if the piston is low or at the top when the crank is at the zero mark.
Put the cams at the T mark when rotating the crank. Hopefully, no valves got bent.
Hey man thanks for uploading this great video is going to help me lot!!👍 By-the-way great song also Who's the artist?
I'm glad the video will be helpful. I'm not sure about the artist of the song it was with my editing software, and I would have to look it up. I'm glad you liked it.
@@shoptimewithdrew No worries on music!, Still appreciate your uploaded on video. Thanks again!!👍👍✌️
Getting ready to do My Son's 04 with the 4.7. I'm reading the harmonic balancer bolt can be a pain. What do you recommend to hold it ? Remove stuck bolt etc.? Chain wrench? Breaker bar or impact? Thanks great video 👍
If I can't get it with a impact I will use a chain wrench with a long braker bar. I would say 9 out of 10 it will come off with a half inch impact. Best of luck.
@@shoptimewithdrew thank you
Not a problem hear to help.
I actually just did my first 4.7 and I followed this man's instructions to 80 let me tell you that boat that you're about to pull off a harmonic balancer the more you can lock it up the easier it'll be and you got to stay on your your point mark top dead center and doing this you should use the serpentine belt and wrap it around the pulley of the oil pump so that it makes it so that the serpentine belt is locked upon itself as long as there's pressure on it you should be able to crack that bolt no problem
Hi, thank you for this video. I’m sorry for my lack of knowledge but the white grease you used for the water pump o-ring was white lithium grease? Thank you.
Yes.
@@shoptimewithdrew one more, how many gal of coolant would I need? 06 v8 4runner
I would get 2 gallons.
I would not recomend using any power tool(like in the video 17:40 ) to clean the surface for the water pump.. you can grind too much and then your really screwed. just use some hand sand paper fine grit lightly until you take the old oxidation off which comes off very easy... clean up with spray cleaner or water, all the surface. IMO.. also 10:13 has a good explanation of the lining up of the marks to remove the belt properly.. however, for this job, I would highly recomend removing the whole radiator, replacing it with OEM, and the hoses, clamps, new radioator fluid change. also, most will remove the bolts for the compressor, not bend the bracket.. it will break then you have to do it right and replace it. I had a garage do this, with replacement of the radiator, fluid, hoses, costs about 2k$. in the DC area for a 2004 Tundra 2UZ-FE.
What about cost for this important project, I have a 03 4Runner 4.7 v8 !
If you take it to a dealership, it will be around the 1k mark.
Thanks for the helpful video. Did you torque the bolts or did you edit that part out?
I didn't torque the bolts. I do it by feel. You need to do what you feel comfortable with, though. Thanks for the comment.
@@shoptimewithdrew I would guess if you do this enough, you could tighten them by feel. Also, what is the solution in the green bottle that you used to clean the engine? Thanks
It is brake clean. We get it in bulk.
After watching this video, you have a new follower.
Thank you!
Hey Drew! Thanks for the awesome video. I just completed my first timing belt change thanks to your video. Slight issue, one of the 12mm bolts that holds the timing belt tensioner was cross threaded so it snapped on me. Car runs fine (300 miles so far) but what's my best bet - drilling it out or can I buy just the front cover?
Thank you! If it is the bolt im thinking of, I think you will have to drill it out and tap it or add a timesert. That bolt goes into the block.
@@shoptimewithdrew It does look like it but I also saw a bunch of bolts so was hoping the front cover came off as one piece. I snugged the timing belt idler shaft bolt a bit more than the torque spec as an added insurance but I'm hoping the one bolt will hold the timing belt tensioner in place for now until I drill it out.
Oh, I thought you were talking about the drive belt tensioner on the front of the engine.
@@shoptimewithdrew no the timing belt tensioner with the pin. The two, 12 mm bolts looks like it goes to the front of the block but seems like it comes apart. I can’t find any diagrams on the web or else I will tell you what it’s called.
Lexus V8 timing belt tensioner problem FML
ua-cam.com/users/shortsZCYVHNQBvtk?feature=share. This bolt…
Thank you thank you thank you
Thanks for the comment.
How long did this job take you to complete? How many labor hours does a shop charge for this?
It takes me about 2 to 3 hours, and we charge 6 hours.
Will the 4runner still run if the timing is off one tooth? The previous owner did this job himself, and there is a p0016 code .
I would think it could run and be off one tooth, but it would run really poor. I have not had one yet, with it being a tooth off, so I could not tell you for sure.
@Shop Time With Drew okay. It doesn't run terribly. I changed OCV's, and it didn't seem to make a difference, still have P0016. Sometimes, it sounds off when it first starts. The fuel mileage is about 15mpg at best..
I would check timing, but I wonder if it is a cam gear issue or if someone has done cam seals, they might have messed up the scissor gears that connect the intake and exhaust cams
What was that you sprayed to clean it?
Brake clean, we get it in bulk.
Which roloc disc did you use to clean the water pump surface? Thanks!
Don't know the brand, but it is brown in color.
Thanks!!
Thanks for a great detailed video! Made the service go smoother.
I'm glad it was helpful, thank you.
What are you spraying from the green container to clean things?
Just some brake clean we get it in bulk.
@@shoptimewithdrew I use brake clean as well. Mine is mostly acetone. Is what you use also acetone or is it chlorinated? Where can I find one of those sprayer you were using?
To tell you the truth I don't know what is in it, it is in a unmarked 55gal drum. The canister you can get from Amazon it is a sure shot sprayer.
Awesome video. I’m assuming this job is the same with the GX470 correct? Thanks
Thank you. Ya engine is the same. Some of the brackets and covers may be a little different.
@@shoptimewithdrew awesome thank you. I appreciate your quick response
Where can I get a crankshaft socket for my 2001 Toyota tundra?
Any impact rated 22mm socket will work.
Need something to go around the shaft
Look up a chain wrench. You want the one with the bar, not the pliers.
So the belt broke two weeks after I bought a used 01 tundra. Not good! Anyway I'm just hoping for the best as the car was ideling at the time.
Now that I need to put a new belt on how should I go about it since I was not able to rotate engine to top dead center before taking off the old belt.
Sorry to tell you, but you probably bent valves, so the heads will have to come off.
If you wanted to, you could try turning the crank to the dot just past top dead center, then turn the cams. If there is any resistance, stop and turn the opposite way.
You could also try and put a belt on and rotate the engine all together, and then when close, remove the belt and adjust the pulleys.
The safest way would be to remove the cams so all valves are completely closed, then rotate crank and then re install cams, then thr belt.
Sorry for your losses!
@@shoptimewithdrew I was able to remove all the spark plugs so I wasn't fighting compression... Then I turned the crank slowly turning the pulley by hand to past top dead center to the timing zone. I did a full rotation without feeling that I hit any valves. The. I set the cam pulleys to the T timing marks and installed a belt.
Truck was able to start when all together and I don't hear any odd noise. Seems as though I may have dodged a bullet! Haven't had a chance to drive it just yet.
Nice, that is great news. I think you would notice an issue at idle if it bent valves.
@@shoptimewithdrew Thank you for the feedback! i wasn't quite sure what to be looking for. Nothing obvious stood out seems to run smooth! I had also used a camera to look at top of the pistons from spark plug holes and didn't notice any signs of impact from valves on them.
You're welcome! All the ones I have had come in with a broken timing belt had bent valves.
Amazing video!!
Just bought a 2007 and was told the belt was changed. Was not till today I found out how to check myself by removing a few screws and pulling back the cover.
My belt is cracked all over the place.
I’m scared to keep driving it but I don’t have any other vehicle right now,
My step dad used to me a mechanic but seems to be not wanting to help me with this task as he said it’s way too hard
It's not that bad if you have some mechanical background. You just gotta do it. Definitely don't want it to break. There is a chance of bending valves if it breaks.
@@shoptimewithdrew the minimum I need to replace the belt is a new belt and new coolant hey ? I get cash at the end of this month but not sure how many more kms I got before this one goes. I have 250,000kms and I’m assuming this is the original belt. So I’m panicking
You are probably right about the original belt if it is all cracked and yes minimum you would need is the timing belt, cross over pipe o-ring, form in place gasket and coolant you don't have to do the water pump.
Actually, you won't need the o-ring if you're not doing the water pump, just the gasket maker for the thermostat housing.
@@shoptimewithdrew I’m wondering if I can get by until the end of the month when I can just have the Toyota dealership do it along with the water pump and tensioner and pulleys, I’d say I have maybe 1500kms of driving to do before I have the cash to take it to the dealership
Excellent vid! I'm the 5th (lol) owner of my 2uz with 200k miles. The TB was changed 2x with aisin kit, but it looks like the WP is leaking for some reason. I haven't started yet, but I'm afraid to strip out the threads on the oil pump housing that the 10mmg hex bolt for the tensioner goes into. I was thinking about first putting some heat on it, then tapping it a bit with a hammer, then trying to gently take it off. Any thoughts on this approach or other recommendations?
Why are you worried it is going to break/strip?
Heat and tapping are always good ideas.
@@shoptimewithdrew heard others have that problem, especially if prior job overtightened or used red loctite. I actually just got it all loose today tho! That hex didn't want to come off. Did a couple rounds of heat and CRC freeze off and gentle impacts.
Now I'm trying to find out why this 10k aisin wp gasket leaked. Can't see obvious broken rubber seals, so I'm thinking they didn't torque it down well
Could not have been torqued correctly. Make sure the block is cleaned good, no foren matter stuck to surface and no pitting.
@@shoptimewithdrew gotcha. Do you recommend any FIPG (small thin layer) on the gasket as well or is that not necessary on the oem multi layer steel gaskets?
Does same timing marks apply if the belt broke? Was told it can be “180 out”?
Set all the marks to the same spot as in the video, then install the belt. Hopefully, you did not bend any valves.
@@shoptimewithdrewthanks for response !
I feel like I’m missing something, how come in some videos people use the strait line and others use the “T”?
One is top dead center, and one is past top dead center. You want to put the crank at the dot past the zero mark and then rotate the cams to the T marks. This way, the pistons are slightly down.
You can use either set of marks.
I don't have Toyota Mechanic shirt, but isn't it 4 bolts & 2 tranny cooler lines left to pull radiator totally out?
Great Smooth Video.
You are right about that but in a shop time is money. If you don't have to pull it, it is just added steps. Thank you for your input.
@@shoptimewithdrew
Yep, I get that!!!
❤️
Another good tip. Just remove the radiator after draining it and draining the two block drains and BEFORE removing the fan. That way you will not damage the radiator as it will be removed and completely out of the way and you will have that much more space to work with.
Hello Drew,
Just came across your video. I have a 2008 Toyota 4 Runner....at 82, 000 miles...I m going to a dealer to have belt... serpentine belt..water pump replaced....Im nervous bcuz finding a good tech is a blessing...like yourself.
Any thoughts...about changing my alternator as well.....nothing is giving me trouble.... dealerships make me a little nervous. They found out while just changing my right blinker/side light that there was a little melted area...they were able to change out light...now they suggested doing a dialysis on why its causing that? Do you agree? Today is 12/13/23....hope you see this before 12/15/23🙏
I wish you were local....I would bring my truck to you.in a heart beat.😊
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 for you. Blessings
Thank you for the comment! If I were you for the bulbs socket, if it is slightly burnt, I would probably have them change out the socket and re check at the next oil service to see how it is looking. Should not cost too much to chaing out the socket. Most of the time, what causes that is the pins are loose, and that causes resistance in the connection. When there is high resistance, that can cause heat. If they tell you it can't be changed or you have to buy a complete wire harness msg me and I will find you a part number. For the alternator, I would leave it if it has no issue, no reason to spend all that extra money. I have seen some 4 runners with close to 300k with an original alternator.
@@shoptimewithdrew, thank you, for responding back. Well, they had to replace my radiator they said there was a hole, the size of a quarter....I requested them to send me pictures...
I didn't see the hole, although, there was this crusty white/ pink foam....so, I had that changed out. I have a question, maybe two. The original 08 top cover was metal or plastic?
I want to say the 4runner was plastic, and the Tundra was metal. I'm not 100% sure.
So I installed the belt and all my marks lined up and I did a revolution but forgot to pull the pin first. What do I need to do to set everything right in place again? Help please!
You will have to rotate the engine and use the marks that are on the cams and crank to get to top dead center. Verify that all marks are in the correct location.
@@shoptimewithdrew so if I'm understanding correctly I need to remove the belt rotate everything to position then re install?
How far are you from top dead center?
@@shoptimewithdrew so I completed the revolution without pulling pin. My "L-Cam" and "R-Cam" marks on the belt and the "T" are lined up but using a mirror underneath the crank pulley it doesn't look like the belt is lined up anymore with the marks
The belt marks only work when first setting it up after you turn the engine over the marks on the belt will be off. If it looks like the cams and crank are in the right area, you should be fine. To be sure, you can pull the belt off and then re install it to verify that everything is in the right orientation. Some things are hard to explain over text.
Would this be the same on a 3uz ?
Yes, almost everything is the same for belt routing. Some of the accessory mounts are a little different.
@@shoptimewithdrewI got the aisin kit I’m doing it myself so kinda nervous everything seems pretty simple except it says put the crank at ATDC so after I spin it around 1 time after putting the belt on and it’s at TDC I put the crank pulley at the 0 ?
0 would be top dead center, then rotate it to the T, and that is after top dead center. 0 on crank and lines on cam caps is top dead center. White pin mark past the 0, and the T marks on cam caps is after.
@@shoptimewithdrew why do they recommend putting ATDC to remove and put new belt on?
Yes, it helps prevent cams from rolling over and possibly making contact with pistons while the belt is off.
You might want to slow down at each component to give reference photos for a diy person
I just did this job on my 2uz and I was concerned about having messed up the timing. I put the belt on at all the correct marks but i made two full rotations and the belt marks don't line up anymore. Is this an issue? I haven't started it up yet I just finished it, but this is my first time doing maintenance with anything to do with timing so im just very cautious.
The lines on the belt will line up when first set up. After you rotate one time, the belt marks will not line up with the cam and crank marks anymore. As long as all the lines on the belt were lined up with the marks on the cam and crank before you rotated and then pulled the tensioner pin, you are good.
@@shoptimewithdrew thank you man, I really appreciate you getting back to me and especially so quickly. I started her up and it's running perfect!
You are welcome. I'm glad it all worked out.
How much should I pay to have this done?
Depending on the shop rate, it could be around $1,500 parts and labor.
@@shoptimewithdrew I appreciate the response. I did a whipple supercharger on my sons 2023 F150. But I am intermediated by timing belts for some reason.
I think you will be fine. Just take your time and set all the parts out as you go so you can get them installed in the correct order. Also recommend a factory belt or Asin kit that has the marks on the belt.
@@shoptimewithdrew I ordered the AISEN TKT-021 kit.
Second master tech I’m watching not using torque wrench on this job. Must not be a coincidence - You probably have it down by feel, us mortals still need a “gizmo”
Ha ha, after many years of doing it over and over, you just get the fill for it.
Car care nut was the first tech?
Whats an altnator?
Alternator or also called a generator it is what charges the battery when the vehicle is running.
So the belting marks don't matter (R cam Lcam and CR)...
The belt will only go on one way for the marks to line up. If your belt is aftermarket with no marks, then all you can go off is the marks on the pulleys and engine.
Dam rookies
I was watching Otramm's UA-cam channel and he states 15mins 30 sec ua-cam.com/video/4dO8KW1-NQs/v-deo.html that you have to look up which model year 2uz-fe you have as when you remove the belt some have to be at TDC, some are past TDC, and some are before TDC. I'm a little confused as I thought there were only two 2UZ-FE engines, one with VVT-i and one without VVT-i . Yet Otramm mentions 3 different timing marks to remove the belt. I have a 1998 non VVT-i and I am scratching my head on what I am missing. Cheers for the great content
All the 2UZ-FE engines have been the same that I have worked on. I wonder if he was getting a 1uz confused with a 2uz.
I remove them all past TDC if that helps.
@@shoptimewithdrew Thanks very much Drew for the clarification, it's fantastic that you got back to me so quickly, wasn't expecting that, much appreciated..Cheers
I didn't see, or hear about torque all the bolts.
So you post a link to the Aisin Kit, but then you re use the tensioner and the pullies? WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT? Also, DO NOT BUY that kit from Amazon OR Ebay, I have seen WAY too many of them be cheap knockoff counterfeit parts. Buy the Aisin kit from a KNOW REPUDABLE SUPPLIER. This is FAR too important to be cheap about!!!
Also, if you are going through all that trouble you REALLY need to replace the pulley and the tensioner (which are included in the factory Aisin kit with the tensioner already compressed with pin installed). Never reuse those parts. They are cheap and come with the belt/pump kit from Aisin (all made in Japan).