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He's a great teacher. He acknowledges when things are not quite right, and pulls the connecter off the wire. Thanks for such a detailed lesson on how to do things correctly.
Thank you for the professional response to the tug test failure. You have talked about the trial and error method and you put it on full display. Failure is a part of learning and getting better, thank you.
9:02 Actaully really happy to see that failure, because it shows the importance of the tug test. Even if a connection looks cherry, you gotta give it more than a weak pull. You just can never know the strength unless it's properly tested. Cheers for that!
@Robert depends on the connector. Manufactures give guidelines on this, down to the exact length of exposed wire you are supposed to leave in order to reduce strain risk - Taz.
Started installing a Holley Terminator X in a 5.0l Mustang(and redoing a LOT of chassis wiring as it was a total hack job), and I've gotta say that automotive wiring as a whole is a LOOOOOT more simple than I realized - but trying to figure out which crimpers I need, which size crimp needs to be used for what pins/terminals, etc. has without a doubt been the most frustrating part of all of this. The industry seriously needs to improve on the standardization of this stuff, it's pretty ridiculous that the best options are either spending hundreds of dollars on an overpriced manufacturer spec tool or trial & error with generic tools(that's a bit of an oversimplification, but none the less).
I'm grateful to have found this channel. It's helped me to build a new, custom dash harness for my Volvo 240. The only complaint i have is that I didn't find it sooner! I'm looking forward to checking out a paid lesson for sure. Thanks.
I have found it useful, particularly with aviation wire (Tefzel) to use flush cutters to nip off a small amount of each of the crimp ears before crimping to the insulation. It seems these ears are often sized for the thicker insulation on automotive wire and are just too long for Tefzel. Nipping off 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch can make a big difference. Obviously nip a little more when at the smaller end of the terminal’s wire range and a little less when at the larger end of the range.
802 garage caught! you know this is the place we find REAL fabricators.... or at least those who esteem to be real fabricators hahaha. (It's wankerwankle btw)
That was good. I’m an HD mech and wondered if basic wiring for race cars was different from factory stuff. So far no. I went to trade school and learnt this already. I always hated trying to get the wire and barrel connector out of the plastic plug on the harness. The key to this stuff is to have the proper tools, especially for repairs.
There is a tool for that it looks like a punch but it’s a tube that slides over the pin and pushes the lock wings in and you can still use it in the connected
Thank you very much. A master tutorial. Great audio with your clear speech and excellent presentation, including the failure demo was equally important 👍👍
Just a little helpful hint After the first crimp turn the connector 15 degrees and give the first a good little squeeze never had a failure after that extra step
In the 1970's I built relay panels for early CNC machines...crimped 100's or even 1,000's every day...you cannot justify buying $150 crimpers for each wire size...unless you want the job done right.
It is actually already a significant accomplishment if you figure out precisely what you have on your car. Then buy the right terminals, housings, wires as well as appropriate crimping tools for not too much money. All this before you are crimping any terminals.
What kind of breathing exercises do you recommend for when you realize too late that you forgot to put a seal or heat shrink on at the beginning. Again. Lol. I've done that too many times...
@@zacperston2429 lol that's my standard, but I always get a stern talk from the big boss after. It's a small shop and the customer area is within earshot 😆
most ratcheting crimp tools have a release in case you accidentally crimp something that prevents you from squeezing all the way to the release point. good ones will also have adjustable crimp force. that said, i still prefer a manual tool like yours for that style as i have to do crimping in tough sports where space and/or wire length is at a premium. i like to be able to pinch the strain relief section with my thumb and finger while making the conductor crimp so i know everything has stayed in the right place. sometime i don't even have the luxury of being able to see what i'm doing. ratcheting crimpers tend to have combination dies that do both at one preventing said pinching technique. plus they're just bulkier. nice to have both though. if i was standing at a bench doing crimps by the dozen i'd go for ratcheting.
I usually start the oe insulation crimp by hand and overlap the two fingers (as in the first example) as the expensive factory tool that does both crimps at the same time makes a dogs breakfast of them every time. I can't say I've tried using the W-crimp on some generic pliers for insulation though
Speaking of closed barrel contacts, here are some from my memory. ITT Cannon D-style connectors as well as KPC series. Burndy ( -> FC ) "Bantam". Deutsch military and aerospace connectors -- something like a 61-pin type.
Crimping the conductor in Econoseal 070 and MultiLock 070 terminals is exactly the same process. Both types of terminals are almost identical, except that Econoseal have a larger and differently shaped section for 'O' crimping the wire seal, and anti-rotation ribs on the sides of the terminal.
Love all the info on these smaller sensor wiring terminals, but does HPA have any resources for best practices when crimping larger terminals, such as battery lugs? I'm seeing lots of different methods of getting the job done, but was wondering if there's a rigorously tested ideal geometry - I mean, like from a "piston" crimped lug (hydro or hammered) with the crimping die pressing in to a round support, or a hexagonal shape from either hydraulic crimpers or bolt-cutter-style crimper, or just a simple set of rectangular dies, or wedge-shaped die in one side.... Also, I don't think I've seen mention of working with wire ferrules? I think for those it might be more simple - use a 4-die or 6-die crimper - but they can also be crimped like the aforementioned lugs. I guess I should probably be asking this on the forums, lol...
@@garyzzzryh.kn.bohrman195 mention the two items?? Did you watch a totally different video then everyone else? He couldn't have been any more descriptive of the items an how they very in quality and sizes for the same pin. I think if you were actually paying attention to the content in the video instead of critiquing the lighting and quality when the numbers on the plyers are clear as day then you might have seen the quality in the information given. People these days are too worried about the kind of ink a message is written in and not the message itself.
thank you, I ordered the general crimping tool but none of the dies fit the superseal 1.0 round part of the crimp. I guess it must be the molex one you have linked. I bought the Link official one for £100 in the UK and it doesnt have the right size either.
Hey Jonathan, great question, in a nutshell they are more versatile and consistent. This has popped up a few times on the HPA forum, but an experienced member has put together a really good answer here I think you will get value from: www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/deutsch-dt-closed-vs-open-barrel-terminal Hope that helps answer your question! - Taz.
The tool that you recommended "TOOL AID 18700 kit in your online article", if you have a look at the kit what's included, the red crimper included in the kit which is also tool aid 18600, it is no where near the same crimper shown in the video. 18600 didn't have any round die like what you are using which is the A and B. Inaccurate information in that article.
Yes you are correct, that is my personal mistake and thank you so much for pointing that out so that I can get it fixed before Zac the tutor tells me that he's both angry and disappointed. The correct tool can be found here: www.milspecwiring.com/16-30-AWG-OPEN-BARREL-CRIMP-TOOL_p_405.html Of course you don't have to use that supplier if you wish to source it elsewhere. NOTE: That toolaid kit is still AWESOME and relevant though, it gives you DTM, DT and DTP crimp tools relatively cheaply. Sometimes those other two tools are useful, but not super often. Thanks again for mentioning this! It would have been much easier to simply keep your thoughts to yourself which would have been a shame - Taz.
It is a size, you can measure it and there will be a comparison chart where applicable when using the likes of Tefzel. TXL is the general 'go-to' beyond motorsport specific applications with a bit of budget behind them. All is covered in this course and more: www.hpacademy.com/courses/wiring-fundamentals/? - Taz.
If you look at sites like Element14 the recommended tool is usually on the same page. You can then reference that part number to find a range of options for that type of tool, or possibly a kit like ToolAid offer for some common tooling option. Example for your contact: nz.element14.com/amp-te-connectivity/173681-1/crimp-contact-socket-22-20awg/dp/2060315 That isn't the only wiring supply website that does this. Hope that helps! - Taz.
'We'? What was your direct contribution to the moon missions 😅 But yes, crimping is something many people do incorrectly. I'm glad you're not one of those people, but if you were, at least you would have found a comprehensive guide to help you out and get you started in the right direction. We're not all born knowing it all 😉 - Taz.
What specific part of the video are you struggling to see? I can give you another resource if you that is preventing you from understanding what is being explained - Taz.
Decent information. however, showing details of a black tool in front of a black background in dim lighting takes an awful lot away from the usefulness of the demonstration. Put some light on the subject...
Yes a little tricky! The course material is a bit more refined compared to these ones we do live but we generally use a white background (just a bit of paper) for some shots like this these days. You live and learn! - Taz.
Don't you think he would've used the smaller one the first time if he knew that was the right size? Did you even pay attention? Did you miss the part where he said "there is no universal chart that says what size die is for what size crimp"? You should probably re-watch this from the beginning...
@@RyTrapp0 have you ever even worked with wiring? It's standard practice to hit it once and then move to a smaller notch and hit it again. Keep in mind this is a DEMONSTRATION. In the real world you'll know it's tight enough and the pull is just to confirm. I MIGHT have had ONE terminal actually pull off, in my entire life. It's not rocket science and you don't need to over complicate it
Good tutorial ruined by poor lighting. Try not using the dark countertop as a background, maybe a yellow or light blue silicon sheet would have worked.
AWG = AMERICAN Wire Gauge I have to get a bit of a laugh when I see a Kiwi talking about using it... ;) Even as an American who has no problem using US Customary, Metric, or even Imperial units, I have to say that the definition / formula for AWG is a bit strange... There's a good Wiki article one it... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
![How To Splice | Practical Wiring Demonstration [GOLD WEBINAR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pVG1hi3yTJ8/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Splice | Practical Wiring Demonstration [GOLD WEBINAR]](/img/tr.png)
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He's a great teacher. He acknowledges when things are not quite right, and pulls the connecter off the wire. Thanks for such a detailed lesson on how to do things correctly.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the professional response to the tug test failure. You have talked about the trial and error method and you put it on full display. Failure is a part of learning and getting better, thank you.
I usually go over the crimp with the next size down die after the first crimp, to make sure everything is nice and tight.
Nice video.
This is the best channel for PC builders ever!!!!
9:02 Actaully really happy to see that failure, because it shows the importance of the tug test. Even if a connection looks cherry, you gotta give it more than a weak pull. You just can never know the strength unless it's properly tested. Cheers for that!
Agreed!!!
but isn't the insulation crimp section supposed to help hold it on? Seems he tested it half crimped to me.
@Robert depends on the connector. Manufactures give guidelines on this, down to the exact length of exposed wire you are supposed to leave in order to reduce strain risk - Taz.
Started installing a Holley Terminator X in a 5.0l Mustang(and redoing a LOT of chassis wiring as it was a total hack job), and I've gotta say that automotive wiring as a whole is a LOOOOOT more simple than I realized - but trying to figure out which crimpers I need, which size crimp needs to be used for what pins/terminals, etc. has without a doubt been the most frustrating part of all of this.
The industry seriously needs to improve on the standardization of this stuff, it's pretty ridiculous that the best options are either spending hundreds of dollars on an overpriced manufacturer spec tool or trial & error with generic tools(that's a bit of an oversimplification, but none the less).
I'm grateful to have found this channel. It's helped me to build a new, custom dash harness for my Volvo 240. The only complaint i have is that I didn't find it sooner!
I'm looking forward to checking out a paid lesson for sure. Thanks.
I have found it useful, particularly with aviation wire (Tefzel) to use flush cutters to nip off a small amount of each of the crimp ears before crimping to the insulation. It seems these ears are often sized for the thicker insulation on automotive wire and are just too long for Tefzel. Nipping off 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch can make a big difference. Obviously nip a little more when at the smaller end of the terminal’s wire range and a little less when at the larger end of the range.
I think y'all have a slogan going.
HP Academy: For The Life Of The Vehcile
Love the wiring courses!
802 garage caught! you know this is the place we find REAL fabricators.... or at least those who esteem to be real fabricators hahaha. (It's wankerwankle btw)
@@kaizousha5531 Well hello there! I see you are a man of culture as well. 😁
@@802Garage that's actually so funny😂
@@kaizousha5531 I didn't even realize I just combined 2 memes as well. 😂
@@802Garage "yOu CaNt dO tHaT!" My goals are beyond your understanding. Observe.
That was good. I’m an HD mech and wondered if basic wiring for race cars was different from factory stuff. So far no. I went to trade school and learnt this already. I always hated trying to get the wire and barrel connector out of the plastic plug on the harness. The key to this stuff is to have the proper tools, especially for repairs.
There is a tool for that it looks like a punch but it’s a tube that slides over the pin and pushes the lock wings in and you can still use it in the connected
Thank you very much. A master tutorial. Great audio with your clear speech and excellent presentation, including the failure demo was equally important 👍👍
You saved me a lot of time figuring it out myself. Thank you!!
Great to hear!
Just a little helpful hint
After the first crimp turn the connector 15 degrees and give the first a good little squeeze never had a failure after that extra step
In the 1970's I built relay panels for early CNC machines...crimped 100's or even 1,000's every day...you cannot justify buying $150 crimpers for each wire size...unless you want the job done right.
It is actually already a significant accomplishment if you figure out precisely what you have on your car. Then buy the right terminals, housings, wires as well as appropriate crimping tools for not too much money. All this before you are crimping any terminals.
What kind of breathing exercises do you recommend for when you realize too late that you forgot to put a seal or heat shrink on at the beginning. Again. Lol. I've done that too many times...
Loud ones are typically recommended, with multiple F-Bombs.
@@zacperston2429 lol that's my standard, but I always get a stern talk from the big boss after. It's a small shop and the customer area is within earshot 😆
I saw one guy on youtube that clipped the wires, put the sleeve on and soldered them back lol 💀
@@bsfibers 😬🤦🏼♂️😆
most ratcheting crimp tools have a release in case you accidentally crimp something that prevents you from squeezing all the way to the release point. good ones will also have adjustable crimp force.
that said, i still prefer a manual tool like yours for that style as i have to do crimping in tough sports where space and/or wire length is at a premium. i like to be able to pinch the strain relief section with my thumb and finger while making the conductor crimp so i know everything has stayed in the right place. sometime i don't even have the luxury of being able to see what i'm doing. ratcheting crimpers tend to have combination dies that do both at one preventing said pinching technique. plus they're just bulkier.
nice to have both though. if i was standing at a bench doing crimps by the dozen i'd go for ratcheting.
Very well articulated and informative.
Hope you found it helpful 😎
Enjoy your class and reasons of why doing things the right way. Cheers
I usually start the oe insulation crimp by hand and overlap the two fingers (as in the first example) as the expensive factory tool that does both crimps at the same time makes a dogs breakfast of them every time. I can't say I've tried using the W-crimp on some generic pliers for insulation though
Speaking of closed barrel contacts, here are some from my memory. ITT Cannon D-style connectors as well as KPC series. Burndy ( -> FC ) "Bantam". Deutsch military and aerospace connectors -- something like a 61-pin type.
Crimping the conductor in Econoseal 070 and MultiLock 070 terminals is exactly the same process. Both types of terminals are almost identical, except that Econoseal have a larger and differently shaped section for 'O' crimping the wire seal, and anti-rotation ribs on the sides of the terminal.
Great training! This is something I needed to know. Thank You!
Awesome session, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very useful video, thank you!
Love all the info on these smaller sensor wiring terminals, but does HPA have any resources for best practices when crimping larger terminals, such as battery lugs? I'm seeing lots of different methods of getting the job done, but was wondering if there's a rigorously tested ideal geometry - I mean, like from a "piston" crimped lug (hydro or hammered) with the crimping die pressing in to a round support, or a hexagonal shape from either hydraulic crimpers or bolt-cutter-style crimper, or just a simple set of rectangular dies, or wedge-shaped die in one side....
Also, I don't think I've seen mention of working with wire ferrules? I think for those it might be more simple - use a 4-die or 6-die crimper - but they can also be crimped like the aforementioned lugs.
I guess I should probably be asking this on the forums, lol...
Thoroughly useful and enjoyable
HI THANKS
YOU SHOULD USE A WHITE BACKGROUND TO SHOW
The cell phone camera views are very very poor. The lighting and magnification are inadequate.
You must be blind in one eye,and can't see shit out of the other one.
Thank you for the kind compliments.
It's a free video on UA-cam of a guy sharing knowledge when most of the world is in lockdown at home. Where are your free guide videos?
The video content was excellent. I just thought it might help to mention the two items that could make the video even better.
@@garyzzzryh.kn.bohrman195 mention the two items?? Did you watch a totally different video then everyone else? He couldn't have been any more descriptive of the items an how they very in quality and sizes for the same pin. I think if you were actually paying attention to the content in the video instead of critiquing the lighting and quality when the numbers on the plyers are clear as day then you might have seen the quality in the information given. People these days are too worried about the kind of ink a message is written in and not the message itself.
Very good explain thanku sir
Always welcome, glad you enjoyed it and hope it helps you out - Taz.
very good, I got what I want.
Perfect =)
thanks heaps for this, incredibly helpful
thank you
thank you, I ordered the general crimping tool but none of the dies fit the superseal 1.0 round part of the crimp. I guess it must be the molex one you have linked. I bought the Link official one for £100 in the UK and it doesnt have the right size either.
GOLDEN! Thanks Zac!
Hi, I'm new to this. But why not use a closed barrel pin instead of an open barrel? Closed barrel looks much more secure and easier to crimp.
Hey Jonathan, great question, in a nutshell they are more versatile and consistent.
This has popped up a few times on the HPA forum, but an experienced member has put together a really good answer here I think you will get value from: www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/deutsch-dt-closed-vs-open-barrel-terminal
Hope that helps answer your question! - Taz.
This guy smart as fuck
The tool that you recommended "TOOL AID 18700 kit in your online article", if you have a look at the kit what's included, the red crimper included in the kit which is also tool aid 18600, it is no where near the same crimper shown in the video. 18600 didn't have any round die like what you are using which is the A and B. Inaccurate information in that article.
Yes you are correct, that is my personal mistake and thank you so much for pointing that out so that I can get it fixed before Zac the tutor tells me that he's both angry and disappointed.
The correct tool can be found here: www.milspecwiring.com/16-30-AWG-OPEN-BARREL-CRIMP-TOOL_p_405.html
Of course you don't have to use that supplier if you wish to source it elsewhere.
NOTE: That toolaid kit is still AWESOME and relevant though, it gives you DTM, DT and DTP crimp tools relatively cheaply. Sometimes those other two tools are useful, but not super often.
Thanks again for mentioning this! It would have been much easier to simply keep your thoughts to yourself which would have been a shame - Taz.
@@hpa101 lucky i haven't gone out and bought the 18700. Cheers
@@hpa101 That link to the "correct tool" doesn't go to a crimper like yours with the round hole either...where can I get one like it in NZ?
@@ianhendra4836 MSEL or Element14 is your best bet for local wiring gear, but generally you have to buy from overseas - Taz.
Great class, but you definitely need to find a better close up camera solution.
Who here misses email notification before a webinar like me?
Now so many webinars come and go and i dont even notice.
what's the main diff between the red and blue crimping tools you have on table in the end? They look like same to those Haltech is selling?
Maintain that even strain...
Need some white paper under iphone camera Tobe able to see crimper and wire better,
04/04 @1:05am Pacific Standard Time at the moment. What about everyone else watching?
What's the issue? They're based in New Zealand.
No issue... was asking what time zone everyone else was watching it in. You know for fun?
@@DookeyDuke my apologies, I see a lot of people complain about videos released at awkward times where they live.
I love videos that come out in the middle of the night . Either i get to watch it at 1 am or i get new content When i get up
Where is the crimping tool from?
Should be listed here: www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/crimping-on-a-budget-tools-and-materials/ - Taz.
@@hpa101 I might be blind, but i can’t find any info on the tool😅
Looks like it's the generic one haltech sell.
can these seals used as heat shrinks?
Can you please wire my 2JZGTE into my Supra!? ;)
how do I fine out what size gauge of wire I have
It is a size, you can measure it and there will be a comparison chart where applicable when using the likes of Tefzel. TXL is the general 'go-to' beyond motorsport specific applications with a bit of budget behind them.
All is covered in this course and more: www.hpacademy.com/courses/wiring-fundamentals/? - Taz.
I want to crimp 173681-1 pin let me know appropriate tool
If you look at sites like Element14 the recommended tool is usually on the same page. You can then reference that part number to find a range of options for that type of tool, or possibly a kit like ToolAid offer for some common tooling option.
Example for your contact: nz.element14.com/amp-te-connectivity/173681-1/crimp-contact-socket-22-20awg/dp/2060315
That isn't the only wiring supply website that does this. Hope that helps! - Taz.
Where can you got that crimpers tool?
More info here: hpcdmy.co/crimping-tools
Video is ver far away.. Cannot see what he is doing
wie kann man 40 minuten über eine crimpverbindung quatschen? wie sind wir auf dem mond gelandet?
'We'? What was your direct contribution to the moon missions 😅
But yes, crimping is something many people do incorrectly. I'm glad you're not one of those people, but if you were, at least you would have found a comprehensive guide to help you out and get you started in the right direction. We're not all born knowing it all 😉 - Taz.
Black tools on a black background??? What are expected to see? Consider doing filming again with logical background colour.
What specific part of the video are you struggling to see? I can give you another resource if you that is preventing you from understanding what is being explained - Taz.
Decent information. however, showing details of a black tool in front of a black background in dim lighting takes an awful lot away from the usefulness of the demonstration. Put some light on the subject...
Yes a little tricky! The course material is a bit more refined compared to these ones we do live but we generally use a white background (just a bit of paper) for some shots like this these days. You live and learn! - Taz.
Starting larger and failing, then moving to a smaller crimp, seems like a waste of time and product!
Doesn't waste any product... Plus it's usually necessary since the tabs on the connector are flared wider than the opening on the tool
Got to that part in the video. Figured he was going down a size if unsure before pull-testing it so I ignore my previous reply lol
Oh, sorry he ruined a $0.10 pin in order to assure he's got a solid connection.
Don't you think he would've used the smaller one the first time if he knew that was the right size?
Did you even pay attention? Did you miss the part where he said "there is no universal chart that says what size die is for what size crimp"?
You should probably re-watch this from the beginning...
@@RyTrapp0 have you ever even worked with wiring? It's standard practice to hit it once and then move to a smaller notch and hit it again. Keep in mind this is a DEMONSTRATION. In the real world you'll know it's tight enough and the pull is just to confirm. I MIGHT have had ONE terminal actually pull off, in my entire life. It's not rocket science and you don't need to over complicate it
Good tutorial ruined by poor lighting. Try not using the dark countertop as a background, maybe a yellow or light blue silicon sheet would have worked.
Only complaint about the video is the guy’s extremely loud high-effort swallowing. Every 20 seconds it sounds like he’s going to choke
INCH-ulation
Yeah, nah.
@@hpa101 yeah, but that's how he's saying it! Great vids, but my new "nails on a chalkboard"
Lies. He says it perfectly. All you jokers with different accents to us are the weird ones from where we're sitting 😉 😂- Taz.
AWG = AMERICAN Wire Gauge
I have to get a bit of a laugh when I see a Kiwi talking about using it... ;)
Even as an American who has no problem using US Customary, Metric, or even Imperial units, I have to say that the definition / formula for AWG is a bit strange... There's a good Wiki article one it...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge