Recently I rescued a five year old corn snake and he was miserable where he was. When I got him he was very defensive and did not like to be handled. I had a spare 40 gallon in my closet and I’ve had him in there for a couple months and I know a 40 gallon isn’t quite big enough but he seems happy. I filled the enclosure with substrate because his old enclosure had no substrate he was on glass and surrounded by fish tank accessories. Now that he has 2.5 feet of substrate and has 3 hides, he’s not defensive at all. Actually he comes up to the exit and when I hold my hand out he smells it and the climbs out onto my hand and it’s so sweet. My Python is against being handled, we’ve been working it for almost a year but he just doesn’t want me to touch him, and that’s perfectly fine. I’ll continue to work with him but eventually I’ll just have to accept the fact that he doesn’t want to be handled lol
Another great video on enclosures for ball pythons. So important to know about the heating of there enclosure. Have a great Sunday see you next Sunday. GOD BLESS 🐍💖🐍💖🐍💖
One thing I’ve learned, no lights at night. My reptile room is also my office, I have a small lamp that stays on 24/7 and I never thought that would effect my snakes but now I know to add that light to the timer for automatic shutoff. It’s only been about a year since I’ve had my snakes and I hope that light hasn’t messed up their cycle. I’ll be better about it for sure, I love my snakes.
Thank you!!!!! heating is the number one thing i was concerned about and felt like i wasn't getting enough advice from elsewhere I looked. got a heat pad but i'll be sure to get a heat lamp too.
Hello! You’re incredibly talented ! Love your videos! May I ask an off topic question? I see someone saying you should hold and “play” with you snake for about 10 /15 min a day. I work from home and I have quite a few free hours during the day. Is it ok to hold him for several hours a day? Like around my neck or on my laps ? (Not after food or shedding of course) I also have a 4 years old who absolutely love snakes so would be cool if we could spend a lot of time with the snake on us. Totally newbie here so pls don’t roast me !
Hey Elle! Huge thanks for this video, I loved how you phrased all the different parts as options within a category to choose from and that there’s not one “right answer”! I found your channel recently and you’ve really helped me in preparing for my first ball python (I get him in a couple months 🥳) I got him a 36 x 18 x 18 exo terra to start off right, now I have to fill it up! I was wondering what the best substrate/heater combo might be for someone that lives in a humid, hot environment like South Florida? It’s probably hotter and more humid in my apartment than in many keepers’ tanks 😂 At least 75 degrees year round and 65%(+) humidity indoors. I’d love to know how you’d approach it!
A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial heat source. With your room temp being that warm you won’t need heat at night. For substrate, new reptiles should be quarantined on paper towel for at least six weeks (ideally three months) to monitor their health. After, good options include cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix. Humidity between 70-80% is ideal. That enclosure will be fine for a juvenile but keep in mind that once he’s older he’ll need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger
Hi I just recently got a ball python his name is orzo (banana lavender, male) he is awesome and chill, and I actually got him on Sunday,September 4th and he’s the best, I watched a TON of your ball python videos before I got him ty for entertaining me -Drew❤️
I used to have mij ballpythons in a rack, but now they are in terrariums. Because at night they are active so they need more room than a tub is my opinion.
Hi! So quick question but when getting a baby snake is it okay to place them in the bigger tank that they will grow into first? Just asking to see if I could save money by not having to purchase multiple tanks. But I’m worried the snake might be stressed out by such a big enclosure in baby stage.
There’s no such thing as too big, only too bare. A baby/juvenile snake will thrive in a large enclosure as long as there’s plenty of clutter and plant cover, and not too much open space. Keep in mind that adults need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger :)
RHPs are not the best as the primary heat source, they only produce infrared C. A halogen flood bulb is the most natural and beneficial primary heat source since they produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively.
@@nightinggale6470 heres where you get different points of view. They are nocturnal and many say they don't need the uv that many reptiles need. I honestly have more experience with bigger pythons..burms, retics, carpets, rock. And for them I'd agree with you. But not sure how I feel about BP's. I think you're in the minority thinking they need light and uv a and b. They dont bask. But I'm def not an expert on balls, just doing my research. Mine rarely come out during the day but are very active at night. But that's just my experience.
@@nightinggale6470 but as I said I'm def not a bp expert!! I know iguanas pretty well😊 they need uvb a and b, need to bask, thrive with high humidity. If I'm wrong...please convince me! Always wanting to improve on husbandry issues. That's my problem with tubs. Though they can clearly live and thrive under that environment, it's does not correlate to nature. Yep that live small places like termite mounds...but mine use every inch I give them, except height, you'll never get humidity and temp gradients correct. All these videos about them being picky eaters. Sometimes seasonally or if they're gravid , but again my experience is if they're not eating something in their husbandry is off, and if corrected they will continue to eat, 80% of the time. Now I only have a few dozen I keep, and I'm only one person
@@nightinggale6470 and dont u need fluorescent lights for certain uvb waves, that u can't get out of a halogen? Been awhile since I kept critters that needed it, but that's how I remember it. But I'm old enough to remember when heat rocks were a thing, and recommended. And almost every reptile went on AstroTurf. Thankfully we've come a long way
@@mrmouse-ol9pw ball pythons most certainly do bask. There are groups where you can see countless examples of ball pythons basking under both heat lamps and UVB, they benefit from them like every reptile does.
Unfortunately that method is not appropriate for ball pythons. Humidity boxes are insufficient for ball pythons, they need high humidity throughout the enclosure (60% bare minimum, ideally 70-80%). Aspen doesn’t retain the humidity they need and molds when wet. In a dry environment ball pythons are susceptible to dehydration, bad sheds, and potentially respiratory infections. Cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix are all good options for substrate :)
You mentioned not to use Aspen that it's very dry. What I do is have a container with a hole in the top of it and I keep moist spaghuman moss in it and keep it over top of the heat pad. The snake is able to get inside of it and it helps with shedding, and humdity as well.
A humidity box alone is insufficient for ball pythons. Their ambient humidity needs to be 60% minimum, ideally 70-80%. Low ambient humidity will lead to dehydration, bad sheds, and potentially respiratory infections. This is why aspen is not an appropriate substrate for ball pythons, they need a humidity retaining substrate such as cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix. I also strongly recommend switching to overhead heating, it’s far more natural and beneficial than under tank heating.
@@nightinggale6470 I haven't gotten my snake yet, but I will say that my humidity has been right at 70% for 3 days now. My humidity box is working just fine. Spaghuman Moss is what I'm using in it and I'm using a glass enclosure.. Everything is spot on with everything. Cold side is around 77 and the hot side is 85. I also have fake foliage in there with a heavy water bowl. You mentioned the heat pad. My internal temp overall is 80 degrees and that's being measured from the top of my enclosure. It's constantly monitored by the app on my phone. Not only is the humidity box working fantastically, it's retaining a great temp and my snake will be able to get in it and keep itself moist and leave whenever it wants. To much moisture on the substrate will cause scale rot.
@@BallPythonPassion as long as you’re able to maintain 70-80% humidity in the enclosure (not just the humidity box). Is your hygrometer digital or analog? Again, overhead heating is far more natural and beneficial for them than heat mats, so I strongly recommend switching. Yes, a constantly wet substrate can lead to scale rot, but there are ways to maintain high humidity without the substrate being wet.
I use a digital Hygrometer and my humidity stays between 60-70% warm side stays around 85 and the cool side around 78. I'm actually fixing to switch her over to a pvc enclosure tomorrow.
Hey newbie to reptiles here! We are looking at getting a ball python for our son in a few months for his bday. Dumb question but If we wanted to provide UVB during day does it go next to the heat source Or do you just always place it on cold side opposite side of the heat? Thanks!
You can plant directly, you just have to use hardy plants and give them a couple weeks to get established. They will still get slithered on and smashed but they will usually rebound. Lol 😆
When you feed a juvenile ball python, and it eats, but then the next day, look like they are still hungry, is it ok to feed another mouse/rat? Or should i wait 5 days for another feeding?
Juvenile ball pythons should be fed once a week. Make sure they’re getting appropriately sized prey items. Them looking hungry isn’t a good reason to feed them. Snakes are opportunistic feeders, and many would eat every day if given the chance. This is why obesity is very common in captive snakes.
With a wooden viv where do we put a heat mat. I can’t find anything online. I know usually you would put the heat mat under the tank but would that still get hot enough for a ball python? Thanks for any help.
Heat mats are not a good heat source, overhead heating is much better for them. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial option during the day, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas heat mats only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin.
So once you turn off the basking heat lamp do they still need some type of heat lamp throughout the night or is the heating pad enough til the morning for when the daylight heating lamp comes back on
I have a 40 gallon terrarium with a heating mat, you mentioned ambient temperature..do I need to have the heating mat and a lamp at the same time to achieve that ambient temp?
Keep in mind that while 40 gallons is fine for a juvenile, it’s not big enough for an adult. Adult ball pythons need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger. The enclosure should be at least as long as the snake. Heat mats are not a good heat source, overhead heating is much better for them. A halogen flood bulb is the most natural and beneficial primary heat source, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. Ceramic heat emitters are good for nighttime heat.
Heat mats aren’t necessary, but yes, if you’re using one it needs to be hooked up to a thermostat. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial heat source during the day. Keep in mind that adult ball pythons need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger.
Congrats! 🎉 That's dependant on the ball python's size. You want to feed them a rodent that's about the same size as their midsection (the widest part of their body). It's been a long time since I've had a baby ball python, but at 3 months - maybe a rat fuzzy.
Use a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector connected to a thermostat for nighttime heat. For daytime, a halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is ideal.
Thank you for your videos! I’m new to owning wondering why a dimmable switch is necessary for a ceramic heat emitter if it doesn’t produce light? Can you just have it connected to a thermostat?
You can use an on/off thermostat with a CHE. However, while CHEs are good for nighttime/supplementary heat, keep in mind that they aren’t a good primary heat source. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial option, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas CHEs only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin.
@@serpent.goddess yes, although a dimming thermostat would be ideal. And keep in mind that halogens are more natural and beneficial than DHPs; the levels of infrared A and B they produce more closely mimic the sun (DHPs produce barely any IRA, the most beneficial wavelength)
@@ellesreptiles Elle + Den bloopers = the greatest moments on UA-cam lol. The chemistry between you two is awesome. Wish I could of made the meet & greet at Snake Discovery. You guys seem like the most genuine and nice people
I have my BP set up with a moist hide instead of an entire moistened enclosure. I have sphagnum moss in the moist hide and I was thinking about using Aspen for the dry area?? What do you think??
Moist hides alone are insufficient for ball pythons. They need at least 60% (ideally 70-80%) humidity throughout the enclosure. Aspen doesn’t retain the humidity they need and molds when wet. Use a deep layer of a humidity retaining substrate such as cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix.
@@nightinggale6470 Actually I watch a lot of experienced keepers that keep them that way because it's better to give them the choice to regulate their own humidity just like you give them a temperature gradience so they can choose to be warm or cool. He always goes to the moist hide to shed and has perfect sheds. He also has two water bowls, one large enough to get into, one just for drinking. I was just trying to find out if the dryness is the only issue with the Aspen
@@luwildy they come from very humid parts of Africa. Humidity below 60% for extended periods of time is very likely to lead to dehydration and may even lead to respiratory infections. Giving them a humidity gradient so they can choose is a good idea, but keeping the enclosure dry and a hide as the only source of humidity is not the way to do it.
Hello! I’ve been told a 20 gallon long is good for life if male, but also minimum for baby. I was also told that I should move my 4 month old male into a 110 gallon tank (4x2x2) WHAT SIZE IS RIGHT IDK WHAT TO DOOO
A 20 gallon long is way too small for an adult male. The enclosure must be at least as long as the snake, with a good amount of depth and climbing height. A 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger is best for adults.
A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat would be more natural and beneficial than a DHP as a primary heat source. The levels of infrared A and B they produce more closely mimic the sun (DHPs produce barely any IRA, the most beneficial wavelength). I power is an on/off stat, so it can’t be used with light emitting bulbs and isn’t the best type of thermostat in general.
A quick wash is always a good idea for anything you buy in stores. But they dont need to be heavily sterilised. Any plastic stuff labeled for use with reptiles should be safe, but if you get fake plants from other sources, just be sure they dont contain dyes that will bleed when gotten wet
They can, but usually a quick shift in temperament is an indication that something is wrong. Whether it's parasites, or the tank temps, maybe being gravid if she's an adult. I've also seen it happen if something traumatic happens (like being dropped or a cat/dog attack).
Are you sure it’s defensive behaviour, or could she be mistaking your fingers for food? When they have parasites they typically show symptoms such as sudden weight loss, loss of appetite, unusual poop, etc. Although you could always send a fecal sample to an exotic vet for peace of mind :)
I commented this on an older video but maybe you will see it here. If I have a 36 L x 24 W x 36 H, what kind lighting set up do I need for a bearded dragon. Should my lights be in the tank or would it be ok to have them on the top screen. I will have the biodude Sahara set up and some very long sticks for him to climb up on
Adult bearded dragons need an enclosure that’s at least 4’ long (ideally longer). Regarding lighting: it can go inside or outside, although you’ve got to consider the distance between the UVB and basking spot(s) and the bulb (brand, percentage, etc.).
@@nightinggale6470 my dragon is not grown. I just need to know about the light distance. How close should the UVB and basking bulb be to his basking spot
A constantly wet substrate, especially if it’s dirty. Ball pythons need high humidity (at least 60%, ideally 70-80%). To maintain this while avoiding scale rot, use a deep layer (4”+) of a humidity retaining substrate such as cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix. Pour water into the substrate and mix it in, just make sure the surface isn’t too wet (a little damp is fine, soaking is not).
I just recently got a 100 w ceramic heat emitter and it gets relly hot. I am going to use a thermostat for it but im worried it will burn something or not get hot enough. This is for my ball python.
Keep in mind that ceramic heat emitters are not a good primary heat source. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial option during the day, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas CHEs only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin. They are good for nighttime heat, though.
Use a deep layer of a humidity retaining substrate (cypress mulch, coconut husk, and/or soil mix). Pour water directly into the substrate and mix it in, just make sure the surface isn’t too wet. If you’ve got a mesh lid, cover most of it with foil tape.
Keep in mind that while that size is ok for a juvenile, adults need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger. The enclosure should be at least as long as the snake. To answer your question: it depends. You can try 75w. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial primary daytime heat source, and a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector can be used for nighttime heat.
@@nightinggale6470 the only options I have is a 60 watts and 100 wtts and the snake itself in a 3 foot male, also I keep the heat emitter and heat pad on all night 24/7, never heard of a halogen flood bulb and I don't think I would know how to connect it to my thermometer. I also have another question, I bought a Bluetooth hygrometer that I can check on my phone. And I was wondering is that bad for the snake? Will Bluetooth affect it?
@@NikiNifti no, the Bluetooth will have no effect on the snake. Your snake will most likely outgrow the enclosure. If they get over 3ft, they will need an upgrade. I strongly recommend using a halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat (not a regular on/off thermostat) as the main heat source, or at least a deep heat projector. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Heat mats and CHEs only produce infrared C, which only heats the surface of their skin and is the least beneficial type of heat. They’re best used for supplementary heat rather than the primary heat source.
@@nightinggale6470 idk what a dimmer/ dimming thermostat is and even if I did I prob would not know how to connect it lol. But the snake is an adult so I don't think he's going to be growing anymore (he's 4 years old)
@@NikiNifti a dimmer can be bought from Amazon or a hardware store, lutron credenza is a good one. You plug the lamp into it and then manually adjust it to achieve the temps you want. A dimming thermostat controls the temperature of the lamp automatically, although rather than during the heat source on and off like cheap thermostats do, it’ll dim the power going to the lamp. Herpstat is the highest quality dimming thermostat. And the snake would still benefit from a larger enclosure. The depth/width of the enclosure should be at least half the snake’s length, meaning for yours it should be at least 18” wide/deep (rather than 12”).
"For a long time Ball Pythons were just kept in racks." Nah. That's the way breeders keep them but that's unsurprising. It's an easy way to get a lot of BPs to eat, shed, and defecate properly. The majority of _pet_ BPs, on the other hand, were (and still are) kept in fish tanks with the wrong substrate, not enough humidity, too few hides, etc. Some pet keepers are _finally_ trying to meet the animals' actual needs, while having nicer setups but it's still nowhere near the majority. I'l worry about changing the habits of the breeders after we get pet stores to stop selling fish tanks with a half round log as BP habitats, to every clueless customer who comes in wanting to buy a pet for their kid. Take a look at most reptile rescues. The BPs that come in emaciated, scarred, with stuck shed and URIs are almost exclusively from pet keepers who didn't know what they were doing. I LOVE channels like this because you actually help to promote responsible pet keeping. I would just say that PetTube should focus more on pushing people away from the actual, dangerous practices that are common among pet keepers. The fact is, if more BPs had been kept in plastic tubs for the past 30+ years, we wouldn't have nearly as many horror stories about them in the reptile rescue world. Big, elaborate enclosures are best. Nearly empty fish tanks are worst. Racks are not ideal but they are not the devil, either. Many a Ball Python have been saved from a lot of suffering by a heat mat, some cocoa block and a $20 plastic tub. We need to change the focus on this discussion. Bad husbandry=bad. Good husbandry=good. Once we get that nipped in the bud, it will be a lot easier to get breeders to see that doing more is a good thing.
While they’re good for nighttime or supplementary heat, CHEs and heat panels aren’t good primary heat sources. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial primary heat source, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas CHEs and heat panels only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin.
@@iwrath2196 you’re disagreeing with facts. A heat lamp such as a halogen flood bulb is the most natural and beneficial heat source for all reptiles, including ball pythons, due to the reasons I mentioned. I’m getting this information from experts who have done extensive research on reptile heating and lighting.
(I don’t have the best grammar, so forgive me.) I have a snake who we rescued. She’s such a sweet heart, but the owners who had the snake neglected her so much. They put so many fake plants in there to the point where she couldn’t even move. She only had 1 hide and the hide she had was a tortoise hide. The opening is too large and she prefers the cold hide because it covers her. so she’s always cold and never coming out. She still has that hide but we will be giving her a new hide right away. She had burn marks and had mouth rot. She wouldn’t eat and she had rat bites everywhere. It’s so devastating to think of the cruel things they have done to her. They never even researched or try to figure out what could be wrong. She has a 5 foot cage they gave her, that she enjoys but I would like to get a bigger one. She was so dull and didn’t have any color to her. She was grey and never moved and was so skinny. (I had lost a corn snake and we couldn’t find it.) When we moved we saw a Facebook post saying “this b!tch won’t eat, she hasn’t eaten since august.” (We got her in march) “does anybody want her?” My mom immediately said yes because mine got loose and we never saw him since. That was one mistake I made. I wanted a snake but didn’t research. So PLEASE do your research before getting a pet. So anyways, we went to go pick her up and she looked awful. Poor thing was so dehydrated. I think they thought of her as a traumatized dog because when we came in she was explaining everything and said that a dog water bowl was her comfort bowl. 💀 at this point I’m dead. When we got her I had no knowledge of ball pythons and it was so last minute I just researched along the way. But I knew that the “comfort bowl” wasn’t her comfort bowl at all. She has a different bowl and doesn’t act any different. I don’t know if anyone knows this, but ball pythons don’t love the same way humans do. So we got her stuff and we rushed out of there. We got her cage less crowded and clean but she still wouldn’t eat and kept trying to get out. She got a lump on her nose where she was trying to get out. She was so scared and kept striking at me every time I tried to get her out. We took her to the vet and found there she had mouth rot. We got the medicine we needed and after a few weeks she got better and she had her first meal. I was so happy and knew if I was going to keep her I have to be responsible and research. We’ve had her for a year now and had only minor problems, but fixable. She’s happy now and doesn’t strike or freak out when I open the cage and pick her up. She’s as happy as can be and I’m looking for new ways to improve her home. Thank you for your videos and putting in effort to help snake owners. I am very grateful for the people in my life that have helped me and my snake. Just remember, don’t get your info from just 1 source. No one is going to shame you if you are trying your best. I had to Learn that the hard way. I can assure you whatever your doing can’t be as bad as what this person did. Always let your self learn and grow from mistakes. I love my snake and wouldn’t want to hurt her in anyway.
we need like a monthly blooper compilation they're funny asf lol
Haha well thank you 💜💜💜
Good morning Elle, hope your Sunday is amazing!! You keep continuing to put out amazing videos!! Can't wait to see next week's!!
Thank you so much for always being here and being supportive! I hope you have a wonderful week! 😊
@@ellesreptiles you're welcome. I truly enjoy your videos!! 🙂
Recently I rescued a five year old corn snake and he was miserable where he was. When I got him he was very defensive and did not like to be handled. I had a spare 40 gallon in my closet and I’ve had him in there for a couple months and I know a 40 gallon isn’t quite big enough but he seems happy. I filled the enclosure with substrate because his old enclosure had no substrate he was on glass and surrounded by fish tank accessories. Now that he has 2.5 feet of substrate and has 3 hides, he’s not defensive at all. Actually he comes up to the exit and when I hold my hand out he smells it and the climbs out onto my hand and it’s so sweet. My Python is against being handled, we’ve been working it for almost a year but he just doesn’t want me to touch him, and that’s perfectly fine. I’ll continue to work with him but eventually I’ll just have to accept the fact that he doesn’t want to be handled lol
Thank you for rescuing him! Hope you’re planning on upgrading, though, he needs a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger.
I love just watching Sterling explore his enclosure! I definitely understand why you put him in a six foot, he seems super active. So adorable.
I love seeing female UA-camrs in the hobby 💕
You're so informative! Keep up the good work and education love 😊
Best video i’ve seen for a bp guide 👏🏽 Video cutdown to segments, links to the products and overall very informational. 💚🐍
I enjoy all your videos and you have really nice set ups and beautiful snakes
Another great video on enclosures for ball pythons. So important to know about the heating of there enclosure.
Have a great Sunday see you next Sunday.
GOD BLESS 🐍💖🐍💖🐍💖
Thank you! Have a wonderful week 🥰
One thing I’ve learned, no lights at night. My reptile room is also my office, I have a small lamp that stays on 24/7 and I never thought that would effect my snakes but now I know to add that light to the timer for automatic shutoff. It’s only been about a year since I’ve had my snakes and I hope that light hasn’t messed up their cycle. I’ll be better about it for sure, I love my snakes.
i love your videos sm. there so informative in a gentle way, which is really nice for begginers x
Thank you!!!!! heating is the number one thing i was concerned about and felt like i wasn't getting enough advice from elsewhere I looked. got a heat pad but i'll be sure to get a heat lamp too.
Informative and entertaining as always Elle. Have a great week!!😊
Thanks so much! Have a fantastic week! 😊
First! Also great job Elle you do amazing with the care and effort you put into all of your animals! So much respect to you!
Thank you so much 💜💜💜
Great video and great information on the enclosure as always!
Thanks! 😊
hi really awesome vid and info
Hello! You’re incredibly talented ! Love your videos!
May I ask an off topic question?
I see someone saying you should hold and “play” with you snake for about 10 /15 min a day. I work from home and I have quite a few free hours during the day. Is it ok to hold him for several hours a day? Like around my neck or on my laps ?
(Not after food or shedding of course) I also have a 4 years old who absolutely love snakes so would be cool if we could spend a lot of time with the snake on us.
Totally newbie here so pls don’t roast me !
I am getting a baby ball python soon!!!!!! I love this video.
Great setup guide.
Thank you 💜
Another great video
Thank you! 😊
Thank you for this helpful video! What was the stuff you mixed in at 7:17? And that mixture can be used as their whole substrate?
Hey Elle! Huge thanks for this video, I loved how you phrased all the different parts as options within a category to choose from and that there’s not one “right answer”! I found your channel recently and you’ve really helped me in preparing for my first ball python (I get him in a couple months 🥳) I got him a 36 x 18 x 18 exo terra to start off right, now I have to fill it up!
I was wondering what the best substrate/heater combo might be for someone that lives in a humid, hot environment like South Florida? It’s probably hotter and more humid in my apartment than in many keepers’ tanks 😂 At least 75 degrees year round and 65%(+) humidity indoors. I’d love to know how you’d approach it!
A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial heat source. With your room temp being that warm you won’t need heat at night. For substrate, new reptiles should be quarantined on paper towel for at least six weeks (ideally three months) to monitor their health. After, good options include cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix. Humidity between 70-80% is ideal. That enclosure will be fine for a juvenile but keep in mind that once he’s older he’ll need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger
Hi I just recently got a ball python his name is orzo (banana lavender, male) he is awesome and chill, and I actually got him on Sunday,September 4th and he’s the best, I watched a TON of your ball python videos before I got him ty for entertaining me
-Drew❤️
❤️❤️❤️
💜
@@ellesreptiles Ball python care guides will never get old. Someone is probably buying their first one today as I type this lol
I used to have mij ballpythons in a rack, but now they are in terrariums. Because at night they are active so they need more room than a tub is my opinion.
Awesome! Thank you so much! Would you mind discussing sizes of quarantine bin? Specifically for a baby ball python but others are fine too!
I've never made a quarantine video 🤔
I should definitely do that. Thanks for pointing that out!
Hi! So quick question but when getting a baby snake is it okay to place them in the bigger tank that they will grow into first? Just asking to see if I could save money by not having to purchase multiple tanks. But I’m worried the snake might be stressed out by such a big enclosure in baby stage.
There’s no such thing as too big, only too bare. A baby/juvenile snake will thrive in a large enclosure as long as there’s plenty of clutter and plant cover, and not too much open space. Keep in mind that adults need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger :)
Ty for saying it. Tubs are cruel!!! Radiant panels are the best. Little more complicated but once setup u can't get better for overall tank temp
RHPs are not the best as the primary heat source, they only produce infrared C. A halogen flood bulb is the most natural and beneficial primary heat source since they produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively.
@@nightinggale6470 heres where you get different points of view. They are nocturnal and many say they don't need the uv that many reptiles need. I honestly have more experience with bigger pythons..burms, retics, carpets, rock. And for them I'd agree with you. But not sure how I feel about BP's. I think you're in the minority thinking they need light and uv a and b. They dont bask. But I'm def not an expert on balls, just doing my research. Mine rarely come out during the day but are very active at night. But that's just my experience.
@@nightinggale6470 but as I said I'm def not a bp expert!! I know iguanas pretty well😊 they need uvb a and b, need to bask, thrive with high humidity. If I'm wrong...please convince me! Always wanting to improve on husbandry issues. That's my problem with tubs. Though they can clearly live and thrive under that environment, it's does not correlate to nature. Yep that live small places like termite mounds...but mine use every inch I give them, except height, you'll never get humidity and temp gradients correct. All these videos about them being picky eaters. Sometimes seasonally or if they're gravid , but again my experience is if they're not eating something in their husbandry is off, and if corrected they will continue to eat, 80% of the time. Now I only have a few dozen I keep, and I'm only one person
@@nightinggale6470 and dont u need fluorescent lights for certain uvb waves, that u can't get out of a halogen? Been awhile since I kept critters that needed it, but that's how I remember it. But I'm old enough to remember when heat rocks were a thing, and recommended. And almost every reptile went on AstroTurf. Thankfully we've come a long way
@@mrmouse-ol9pw ball pythons most certainly do bask. There are groups where you can see countless examples of ball pythons basking under both heat lamps and UVB, they benefit from them like every reptile does.
Just found you. Thanks for the info.
Are the deep heat projectors ethical for reptiles such as bearded dragons too?
would you recommend a Digital Thermometer Hygrometer Temperature Controller ? and if so do you have any you personally would recommend ?
Stuck between a ball python and a hognose, definitely deep diving rn
They're both so cool in their own ways 🥺💜
@@ellesreptiles I’ve gotten a 3 year old mojave beep! I’m just waiting on the setup to arrive before going and collecting her 😄😄
Hi Elle! I'm currently using aspin fibers for my ball phyton and supplementing with a humidity box and I've found it to work quite well
Unfortunately that method is not appropriate for ball pythons. Humidity boxes are insufficient for ball pythons, they need high humidity throughout the enclosure (60% bare minimum, ideally 70-80%). Aspen doesn’t retain the humidity they need and molds when wet. In a dry environment ball pythons are susceptible to dehydration, bad sheds, and potentially respiratory infections. Cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix are all good options for substrate :)
You mentioned not to use Aspen that it's very dry. What I do is have a container with a hole in the top of it and I keep moist spaghuman moss in it and keep it over top of the heat pad. The snake is able to get inside of it and it helps with shedding, and humdity as well.
A humidity box alone is insufficient for ball pythons. Their ambient humidity needs to be 60% minimum, ideally 70-80%. Low ambient humidity will lead to dehydration, bad sheds, and potentially respiratory infections. This is why aspen is not an appropriate substrate for ball pythons, they need a humidity retaining substrate such as cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix. I also strongly recommend switching to overhead heating, it’s far more natural and beneficial than under tank heating.
@@nightinggale6470 I haven't gotten my snake yet, but I will say that my humidity has been right at 70% for 3 days now. My humidity box is working just fine. Spaghuman Moss is what I'm using in it and I'm using a glass enclosure.. Everything is spot on with everything. Cold side is around 77 and the hot side is 85. I also have fake foliage in there with a heavy water bowl. You mentioned the heat pad. My internal temp overall is 80 degrees and that's being measured from the top of my enclosure. It's constantly monitored by the app on my phone. Not only is the humidity box working fantastically, it's retaining a great temp and my snake will be able to get in it and keep itself moist and leave whenever it wants. To much moisture on the substrate will cause scale rot.
@@BallPythonPassion as long as you’re able to maintain 70-80% humidity in the enclosure (not just the humidity box). Is your hygrometer digital or analog? Again, overhead heating is far more natural and beneficial for them than heat mats, so I strongly recommend switching. Yes, a constantly wet substrate can lead to scale rot, but there are ways to maintain high humidity without the substrate being wet.
I use a digital Hygrometer and my humidity stays between 60-70% warm side stays around 85 and the cool side around 78. I'm actually fixing to switch her over to a pvc enclosure tomorrow.
Hey newbie to reptiles here! We are looking at getting a ball python for our son in a few months for his bday. Dumb question but If we wanted to provide UVB during day does it go next to the heat source Or do you just always place it on cold side opposite side of the heat? Thanks!
Next to the heat source.
What kind of morph is Sterling?
You can plant directly, you just have to use hardy plants and give them a couple weeks to get established. They will still get slithered on and smashed but they will usually rebound. Lol 😆
When you feed a juvenile ball python, and it eats, but then the next day, look like they are still hungry, is it ok to feed another mouse/rat? Or should i wait 5 days for another feeding?
Juvenile ball pythons should be fed once a week. Make sure they’re getting appropriately sized prey items. Them looking hungry isn’t a good reason to feed them. Snakes are opportunistic feeders, and many would eat every day if given the chance. This is why obesity is very common in captive snakes.
Hey I was wondering how often do you need to clean those bug setups?
With a wooden viv where do we put a heat mat. I can’t find anything online. I know usually you would put the heat mat under the tank but would that still get hot enough for a ball python? Thanks for any help.
Heat mats are not a good heat source, overhead heating is much better for them. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial option during the day, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas heat mats only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin.
How much is a 4x2x2 at the pet store you usually go to? I wanna get one but the ones I’m finding are all 350$ or higher
dubiaroaches.com sells a really nice one for like $260ish.
I think the zenhabitats version is less than $300 (I haven't tried this one)
Is a day and night light good ones red and a blue one is that ok?
I highly suggest against red/blue lights. All lights should be off at night
So once you turn off the basking heat lamp do they still need some type of heat lamp throughout the night or is the heating pad enough til the morning for when the daylight heating lamp comes back on
Heat mats aren’t necessary. A ceramic heat emitter can be used for nighttime heat if it gets below 70F.
I have a 40 gallon terrarium with a heating mat, you mentioned ambient temperature..do I need to have the heating mat and a lamp at the same time to achieve that ambient temp?
Keep in mind that while 40 gallons is fine for a juvenile, it’s not big enough for an adult. Adult ball pythons need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger. The enclosure should be at least as long as the snake. Heat mats are not a good heat source, overhead heating is much better for them. A halogen flood bulb is the most natural and beneficial primary heat source, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. Ceramic heat emitters are good for nighttime heat.
Tarantulas don't care about a day or night cycle, you will actually see them more if you keep the lighting down
What do you use for the soil
what do you feed them
Mine both eat frozen/thawed medium rats
So if I have a 40 gallon with a 20 gallon heat mat under his basking hide, I should hook that the to thermostat instead of the CHE?
Heat mats aren’t necessary, but yes, if you’re using one it needs to be hooked up to a thermostat. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial heat source during the day. Keep in mind that adult ball pythons need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger.
What do you recommend feeding babies? I just got my first ball python two days ago and she’s almost 3 months!
Congrats! 🎉
That's dependant on the ball python's size. You want to feed them a rodent that's about the same size as their midsection (the widest part of their body). It's been a long time since I've had a baby ball python, but at 3 months - maybe a rat fuzzy.
@@ellesreptiles thank you!
if i use a basking bulb during the day what do i do for night time for heating
Use a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector connected to a thermostat for nighttime heat. For daytime, a halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is ideal.
Hi
Hi!
Thank you for your videos! I’m new to owning wondering why a dimmable switch is necessary for a ceramic heat emitter if it doesn’t produce light? Can you just have it connected to a thermostat?
You can use an on/off thermostat with a CHE. However, while CHEs are good for nighttime/supplementary heat, keep in mind that they aren’t a good primary heat source. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial option, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas CHEs only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin.
Thank you!!! On/off switch okay for DHP?
@@serpent.goddess yes, although a dimming thermostat would be ideal. And keep in mind that halogens are more natural and beneficial than DHPs; the levels of infrared A and B they produce more closely mimic the sun (DHPs produce barely any IRA, the most beneficial wavelength)
You said a bit of sand in the soil mix, i thought sand was a no go??
Sand is fine as a small part of a soil mix for many different species of reptiles.
Great video. Not enough Reptilian Den lol
Haha I'll try to get him in more videos.
@@ellesreptiles Elle + Den bloopers = the greatest moments on UA-cam lol. The chemistry between you two is awesome. Wish I could of made the meet & greet at Snake Discovery. You guys seem like the most genuine and nice people
Would reptisoil and top soil mix be alright for a non bioactive enclosure?
Yep! You don’t need both, though, either one works fine on its own. You can also mix in coconut husk, cypress mulch, and/or moss.
no red lights at night ?😢 wish i’d watched this before me trip to petsmart haha very informational thankss
No red lights for any reptiles! They are bad for their eyes. ❤️
Can you do a video on sand boas ?
I have my BP set up with a moist hide instead of an entire moistened enclosure. I have sphagnum moss in the moist hide and I was thinking about using Aspen for the dry area?? What do you think??
Moist hides alone are insufficient for ball pythons. They need at least 60% (ideally 70-80%) humidity throughout the enclosure. Aspen doesn’t retain the humidity they need and molds when wet. Use a deep layer of a humidity retaining substrate such as cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix.
@@nightinggale6470 Actually I watch a lot of experienced keepers that keep them that way because it's better to give them the choice to regulate their own humidity just like you give them a temperature gradience so they can choose to be warm or cool. He always goes to the moist hide to shed and has perfect sheds. He also has two water bowls, one large enough to get into, one just for drinking. I was just trying to find out if the dryness is the only issue with the Aspen
@@luwildy they come from very humid parts of Africa. Humidity below 60% for extended periods of time is very likely to lead to dehydration and may even lead to respiratory infections. Giving them a humidity gradient so they can choose is a good idea, but keeping the enclosure dry and a hide as the only source of humidity is not the way to do it.
Hello! I’ve been told a 20 gallon long is good for life if male, but also minimum for baby. I was also told that I should move my 4 month old male into a 110 gallon tank (4x2x2)
WHAT SIZE IS RIGHT IDK WHAT TO DOOO
A 20 gallon long is way too small for an adult male. The enclosure must be at least as long as the snake, with a good amount of depth and climbing height. A 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger is best for adults.
4x2x2 is way to go for adult pythons so I just start em at that. More to do. Less stress on animal.
Hello! Do you also use heat mat under your enclosure together with the deep heat projector?
Nope, currently using only the DHP
@@ellesreptiles Ohh, okay thank you!! ❤
A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat would be more natural and beneficial than a DHP as a primary heat source. The levels of infrared A and B they produce more closely mimic the sun (DHPs produce barely any IRA, the most beneficial wavelength). I power is an on/off stat, so it can’t be used with light emitting bulbs and isn’t the best type of thermostat in general.
Is it needed to sterilise the enrichment from the store? Can coloring on it or certain plastic be dangerous for the snake?
You typically don’t need to sterilize it.
A quick wash is always a good idea for anything you buy in stores. But they dont need to be heavily sterilised. Any plastic stuff labeled for use with reptiles should be safe, but if you get fake plants from other sources, just be sure they dont contain dyes that will bleed when gotten wet
Quick question, can beardies get aggressive? Seems like out is trying to bite our fingers. I don't even want to hold her anymore. Thanks!
They can, but usually a quick shift in temperament is an indication that something is wrong. Whether it's parasites, or the tank temps, maybe being gravid if she's an adult. I've also seen it happen if something traumatic happens (like being dropped or a cat/dog attack).
@@ellesreptiles well she is well loved here, how can I tell if it's parasites? Thank you so much for your help
Are you sure it’s defensive behaviour, or could she be mistaking your fingers for food? When they have parasites they typically show symptoms such as sudden weight loss, loss of appetite, unusual poop, etc. Although you could always send a fecal sample to an exotic vet for peace of mind :)
@@nightinggale6470 wish I knew. She's earing and pooping well. She starts scratching the glass and moves stuff around in her tank.
I commented this on an older video but maybe you will see it here. If I have a 36 L x 24 W x 36 H, what kind lighting set up do I need for a bearded dragon. Should my lights be in the tank or would it be ok to have them on the top screen. I will have the biodude Sahara set up and some very long sticks for him to climb up on
Adult bearded dragons need an enclosure that’s at least 4’ long (ideally longer). Regarding lighting: it can go inside or outside, although you’ve got to consider the distance between the UVB and basking spot(s) and the bulb (brand, percentage, etc.).
@@nightinggale6470 my dragon is not grown. I just need to know about the light distance. How close should the UVB and basking bulb be to his basking spot
@@YvngDvggerDvck the UVB should be 8-12” away if on top of mesh, about 15” away if inside the enclosure.
Can you touch on preventing scale rot and what the leading causes are?
A constantly wet substrate, especially if it’s dirty. Ball pythons need high humidity (at least 60%, ideally 70-80%). To maintain this while avoiding scale rot, use a deep layer (4”+) of a humidity retaining substrate such as cypress mulch, coconut husk, or a soil mix. Pour water into the substrate and mix it in, just make sure the surface isn’t too wet (a little damp is fine, soaking is not).
I am hopeful to get into the animal keeping business sometime. Even though it’s clearly a lot of work😨
It's a lot of work, but very rewarding 🦎🥰
I love Ball Pythons Too But it's the food strikes that worries Me
I just recently got a 100 w ceramic heat emitter and it gets relly hot. I am going to use a thermostat for it but im worried it will burn something or not get hot enough. This is for my ball python.
I always use dimmable clamp lamps with any heat bulb source, especially ceramic heat emitters. You're right - they definitely get very hot 🥵
Keep in mind that ceramic heat emitters are not a good primary heat source. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial option during the day, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas CHEs only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin. They are good for nighttime heat, though.
@@ellesreptiles Thank you!
Elle......question for you: how do I increase humidity?
Use a deep layer of a humidity retaining substrate (cypress mulch, coconut husk, and/or soil mix). Pour water directly into the substrate and mix it in, just make sure the surface isn’t too wet. If you’ve got a mesh lid, cover most of it with foil tape.
I have a 36 L x 18 h x 12 w. How much watts would i need for my heat side
Keep in mind that while that size is ok for a juvenile, adults need a 4x2x2’ enclosure or larger. The enclosure should be at least as long as the snake. To answer your question: it depends. You can try 75w. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial primary daytime heat source, and a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector can be used for nighttime heat.
@@nightinggale6470 the only options I have is a 60 watts and 100 wtts and the snake itself in a 3 foot male, also I keep the heat emitter and heat pad on all night 24/7, never heard of a halogen flood bulb and I don't think I would know how to connect it to my thermometer. I also have another question, I bought a Bluetooth hygrometer that I can check on my phone. And I was wondering is that bad for the snake? Will Bluetooth affect it?
@@NikiNifti no, the Bluetooth will have no effect on the snake. Your snake will most likely outgrow the enclosure. If they get over 3ft, they will need an upgrade. I strongly recommend using a halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer or dimming thermostat (not a regular on/off thermostat) as the main heat source, or at least a deep heat projector. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Heat mats and CHEs only produce infrared C, which only heats the surface of their skin and is the least beneficial type of heat. They’re best used for supplementary heat rather than the primary heat source.
@@nightinggale6470 idk what a dimmer/ dimming thermostat is and even if I did I prob would not know how to connect it lol. But the snake is an adult so I don't think he's going to be growing anymore (he's 4 years old)
@@NikiNifti a dimmer can be bought from Amazon or a hardware store, lutron credenza is a good one. You plug the lamp into it and then manually adjust it to achieve the temps you want. A dimming thermostat controls the temperature of the lamp automatically, although rather than during the heat source on and off like cheap thermostats do, it’ll dim the power going to the lamp. Herpstat is the highest quality dimming thermostat. And the snake would still benefit from a larger enclosure. The depth/width of the enclosure should be at least half the snake’s length, meaning for yours it should be at least 18” wide/deep (rather than 12”).
All these care guides fail to say what temps the hot side and cool side should be. You get mixed advice and it’s confusing.
😂😂 if the world could agree as unitedly as Reptile enthusiasts are about how bad heat rocks are.. we would be unstoppable. 😂
😂 agreed.
I wanna get my baby a 6 foot habitat
"For a long time Ball Pythons were just kept in racks."
Nah. That's the way breeders keep them but that's unsurprising. It's an easy way to get a lot of BPs to eat, shed, and defecate properly. The majority of _pet_ BPs, on the other hand, were (and still are) kept in fish tanks with the wrong substrate, not enough humidity, too few hides, etc. Some pet keepers are _finally_ trying to meet the animals' actual needs, while having nicer setups but it's still nowhere near the majority. I'l worry about changing the habits of the breeders after we get pet stores to stop selling fish tanks with a half round log as BP habitats, to every clueless customer who comes in wanting to buy a pet for their kid.
Take a look at most reptile rescues. The BPs that come in emaciated, scarred, with stuck shed and URIs are almost exclusively from pet keepers who didn't know what they were doing. I LOVE channels like this because you actually help to promote responsible pet keeping. I would just say that PetTube should focus more on pushing people away from the actual, dangerous practices that are common among pet keepers. The fact is, if more BPs had been kept in plastic tubs for the past 30+ years, we wouldn't have nearly as many horror stories about them in the reptile rescue world.
Big, elaborate enclosures are best. Nearly empty fish tanks are worst. Racks are not ideal but they are not the devil, either. Many a Ball Python have been saved from a lot of suffering by a heat mat, some cocoa block and a $20 plastic tub. We need to change the focus on this discussion. Bad husbandry=bad. Good husbandry=good. Once we get that nipped in the bud, it will be a lot easier to get breeders to see that doing more is a good thing.
ball pythons dont need a basking lamp. a che is fine or heat panel
While they’re good for nighttime or supplementary heat, CHEs and heat panels aren’t good primary heat sources. A halogen flood bulb connected to a dimmer/dimming thermostat is the most natural and beneficial primary heat source, Arcadia’s deep heat projector is the second best option. They produce infrared A and B like the sun, heat that penetrates deep into the skin tissue and heats them far more effectively. Whereas CHEs and heat panels only produce IRC, which only heats the surface of their skin.
@@nightinggale6470 i have a heat mat too. and i disagree.the ambient temp is imprtant too
@@iwrath2196 you’re disagreeing with facts. A heat lamp such as a halogen flood bulb is the most natural and beneficial heat source for all reptiles, including ball pythons, due to the reasons I mentioned. I’m getting this information from experts who have done extensive research on reptile heating and lighting.
(I don’t have the best grammar, so forgive me.)
I have a snake who we rescued. She’s such a sweet heart, but the owners who had the snake neglected her so much. They put so many fake plants in there to the point where she couldn’t even move. She only had 1 hide and the hide she had was a tortoise hide. The opening is too large and she prefers the cold hide because it covers her. so she’s always cold and never coming out. She still has that hide but we will be giving her a new hide right away.
She had burn marks and had mouth rot. She wouldn’t eat and she had rat bites everywhere. It’s so devastating to think of the cruel things they have done to her. They never even researched or try to figure out what could be wrong. She has a 5 foot cage they gave her, that she enjoys but I would like to get a bigger one. She was so dull and didn’t have any color to her. She was grey and never moved and was so skinny.
(I had lost a corn snake and we couldn’t find it.)
When we moved we saw a Facebook post saying “this b!tch won’t eat, she hasn’t eaten since august.” (We got her in march) “does anybody want her?” My mom immediately said yes because mine got loose and we never saw him since. That was one mistake I made. I wanted a snake but didn’t research. So PLEASE do your research before getting a pet.
So anyways, we went to go pick her up and she looked awful. Poor thing was so dehydrated. I think they thought of her as a traumatized dog because when we came in she was explaining everything and said that a dog water bowl was her comfort bowl. 💀 at this point I’m dead. When we got her I had no knowledge of ball pythons and it was so last minute I just researched along the way. But I knew that the “comfort bowl” wasn’t her comfort bowl at all. She has a different bowl and doesn’t act any different. I don’t know if anyone knows this, but ball pythons don’t love the same way humans do. So we got her stuff and we rushed out of there.
We got her cage less crowded and clean but she still wouldn’t eat and kept trying to get out. She got a lump on her nose where she was trying to get out. She was so scared and kept striking at me every time I tried to get her out. We took her to the vet and found there she had mouth rot. We got the medicine we needed and after a few weeks she got better and she had her first meal. I was so happy and knew if I was going to keep her I have to be responsible and research. We’ve had her for a year now and had only minor problems, but fixable. She’s happy now and doesn’t strike or freak out when I open the cage and pick her up. She’s as happy as can be and I’m looking for new ways to improve her home.
Thank you for your videos and putting in effort to help snake owners.
I am very grateful for the people in my life that have helped me and my snake.
Just remember, don’t get your info from just 1 source. No one is going to shame you if you are trying your best. I had to Learn that the hard way. I can assure you whatever your doing can’t be as bad as what this person did. Always let your self learn and grow from mistakes. I love my snake and wouldn’t want to hurt her in anyway.