Another name for these are drift punches. This term is more common in the industrial world. Great tools for driving any part without damaging the surface so much.
Needs to be said once in a while. Thanks for the Friday Need this tool episodes. I've had these for years but so many other tools I've seen here are something I didn't know about.
Happy Friday, Mr. Voss. Simple tools that deserve an honorable mention.👍 I bought a cheaper set of these years ago. Haven't used them much, but they are so handy when you need 'em. LOL at "step into my office".😂 Enjoy your weekend, sir.👊
You were sent the punch set, you can't remember what it's called, not sure of other uses - but they'll be perfect for everyone! Is this what affiliate commission does to a person's credibility and integrity?
Yeah... just spent an hour heating and beating a roll pin out of a tractor. You can't use a punch on them since you'll "spread" them making them even tighter. A bolt with a reduced point on it works well... otherwise I really need a set :-D
Thank you for not having your mic/line in volume at the utmost capacity. Many other people's videos I watched at my lowest volume setting and they were too loud, making it disruptive to those around....
Wow, cool, I didn't know there was a tool for that, I usually just hammer on an allen key - it does the job but it's rather annoying b/c allen keys are flimsey so hard to get a good transfer of momentum. This would be much better.
it's like when my 3 year old discovers his bob the builder plastic workbench and then learns how a plastic screw goes in a hole and then taps everything with a hammer. sure, he knows which tools are his and knows the general rules on how to use them, but he has no practical working knowledge on how to drive or apply fasteners in real life. you have an unused snapon set and a set from amazon you are trying to hustle for a commission but you are all talk with no application. we did not see you move a single roll (spring) pin. you walk over to your race car and point at a section which looks like it hasn't been worked on in days. you have spring pins in various stages of replacement and when you start pointing at them you seem like that 3 year old telling his friends that he works on cars and just pointing to what his dad does like his 3 year old mind did the whole thing. i'll go ahead and write it: you are not using those punches to drive those pins. if you were, then you would have shown us. those pins are giving your dad or grandpa a hard time and they gave up for the day or are out at the parts store looking for a ball joint driver or some other more appropriate tool for working those awful pins. go ahead and stick one of your punches in there and start whacking it with a hammer. make sure you record it because we all want to laugh when you brick your grandpa's transmission. now be a good boy and get your camera equipment out of grandpa's shop. go ahead and smoke whatever stash you were in the garage looking for originally and then get out. quit messing with his tools and quit trying to convince youtube that you know anything about anything. tool.
That was epic, im having a hard time removing super seized rusted pins that keep my front brake pads on. Ive battled for about 12 hrs and im on the last one. How do you use a balljoint tool to get that out easier? OR any other tips?
@@myalternatemeswordofthefor4928 what kind of car is it? i cannot recall an application where spring pins are holding brake pads. if at all possible, use an acetylene torch to try and melt it out or at least make it molten enough for the punch to work. or disconnect the brake line (after pinching it off) and replace the whole caliper, remembering to bleed the air. if you replace one side, you will likely need to to the other side as well. for a balljoint tool to work, you need your roll (spring) pin removal tool to be short enough to fit in the chomper and then you will have the hexbolt on that tool which will give you the ability to drive the punch with an impact driver or a breaker bar setup for max torque
@@icyuranus404 Thanks for the knowledge man. Its a 2002 toyota tacoma. I fought with the 4 pins for about 15 hrs lol. I got them out but only after bashing on em forever and mushrooming the head and then having to cut the mushroom off so i can continue to hammer it even though it never looked like it would move but eventually it did, I used a propane torch, a sledgehammer and a few punches and chisels and a dremel tool and a whole can of wd40. That was brutal, but stoked its done now.Im gonna invest in a ball joint tool haha. Also a compressor and Air hammer to air hammer the sob into the next dimension if that ever happens again haha. ( the pins were so seized that after removing them, the replacement pins fit really loose, bored it out i guess haha)
@@myalternatemeswordofthefor4928 yep my experience with roll pins is about the same every time. it feels like there should be an easy way about it, but it hardly ever is.glad to help. it always feels good to overcome obstacles. your local advance auto or autozone will loan you a ball joint tool for free, but you will need to put a $200 hold for the cost of the tool on your bankcard until you return it. air hammers use a lot of air and your average $400 home compressor will not keep up with running one wide open, but it should be good for short bursts. electric hammers like that can cost a bunch and might be too big but you might be able to get one at a pawn shop for under $100. roll pins should not be loose. you might need to get a set with different sizes and go up a size. aside from roll pins, they are called spring pins i believe because they are made of spring steel and they work like a spring, applying steady pressure outward when drove into place.putting them in shouldn't be as difficult as taking them out, but they should not be loose in the hole or spin around at all. you almost need to press them in with a shop press or the balljoint tool (c-clamp maybe?) when possible, but not all locations will be suited for those tools and you might need to tap in with a hammer without mushrooming. i have my eye on 2 roll pins that need to come out of some hydraulic equipment. they are in a location where i will be replacing them with bolts and nuts since clearance is not an issue and the part is not hidden out of sight if it does fail. but if i were to put roll pins back in, i would try coating the pin and hole with a light amount of anti-seize just in case it ever wants to come out again. remember to clean your fingernails. the ladies like a strong hard working man, but they don't want dirty hands messing up their stuff.
Dude definetly rolled something before hitting the record button lol
Another name for these are drift punches. This term is more common in the industrial world. Great tools for driving any part without damaging the surface so much.
Also used a lot in guns. Particularly on ar 15s.
I was about to say the same thing WarefareModern3 but you beat me to the Punch! Must have tool. :) AR-15.
Needs to be said once in a while. Thanks for the Friday Need this tool episodes. I've had these for years but so many other tools I've seen here are something I didn't know about.
sweet...thanks for watching
Thank you very much for explaining what a roll pin pumch is,I inherited a set and had no clue what they were used for
Could also use a pin punch to do brake work on brembos when removing the pin that holds the bracket for the pads.
Happy Friday, Mr. Voss. Simple tools that deserve an honorable mention.👍 I bought a cheaper set of these years ago. Haven't used them much, but they are so handy when you need 'em. LOL at "step into my office".😂 Enjoy your weekend, sir.👊
+TheMick26 lol...I gotta try and keep it entertaining lol
Work grate on rivets to punch out the center and pull them out when you can't drill them
Nice to see u back, it's FRIDAY Fool 🕺
It actually is friday for me lmao and it’s blazing time
Thanks a lot ! I need to build myself one now, let's go to the laaaathe
:)
Thanks Kyle , I do need that TOOL !👊
+Barry Phil Rush welcome
What we NEED is a spring loaded pin punch set, a holder and interchangeable punches. Appears NO ONE is making such.
You were sent the punch set, you can't remember what it's called, not sure of other uses - but they'll be perfect for everyone! Is this what affiliate commission does to a person's credibility and integrity?
Yeah... just spent an hour heating and beating a roll pin out of a tractor. You can't use a punch on them since you'll "spread" them making them even tighter. A bolt with a reduced point on it works well... otherwise I really need a set :-D
Thank you for not having your mic/line in volume at the utmost capacity. Many other people's videos I watched at my lowest volume setting and they were too loud, making it disruptive to those around....
Whoooooooooo FRIDAY!
+ScreamingGoat43 lol
Wow, cool, I didn't know there was a tool for that, I usually just hammer on an allen key - it does the job but it's rather annoying b/c allen keys are flimsey so hard to get a good transfer of momentum. This would be much better.
yeah
I've been using mine to knock a stuck pin out of a hinge on my shed door.
You are the tool fool great video and awesome mustang good job!!!
These damn things break like toothpicks. Either I'm using Thor's hammer, or I'm doing something wrong.
Their all over snowblowers
Great video. Have you ever used the drill bit and tap combo?
I saw a video of a drill bit that drills and threads a hole all at once.
Glenn Smith those things snap if you look at them wrong lol
bdub z true but it depends on the thickness of the steel you are trying to drill/tap. For thicker stuff you can't replace a tap/spiral flute.
Another BS wanna be youtube star, video starts at 1:36 kind of
Where do you get long ones like over 12"?
Never seen those anywhere. The longest ones I have are like 6", they are Starretts
Is there a couch in the office?
Casting?
bonecrrusherSS ;)
+bonecrrusherSS lol
You really blither blather waaaaaaaaay too much youngin.
it's like when my 3 year old discovers his bob the builder plastic workbench and then learns how a plastic screw goes in a hole and then taps everything with a hammer. sure, he knows which tools are his and knows the general rules on how to use them, but he has no practical working knowledge on how to drive or apply fasteners in real life.
you have an unused snapon set and a set from amazon you are trying to hustle for a commission but you are all talk with no application. we did not see you move a single roll (spring) pin. you walk over to your race car and point at a section which looks like it hasn't been worked on in days. you have spring pins in various stages of replacement and when you start pointing at them you seem like that 3 year old telling his friends that he works on cars and just pointing to what his dad does like his 3 year old mind did the whole thing.
i'll go ahead and write it: you are not using those punches to drive those pins. if you were, then you would have shown us. those pins are giving your dad or grandpa a hard time and they gave up for the day or are out at the parts store looking for a ball joint driver or some other more appropriate tool for working those awful pins. go ahead and stick one of your punches in there and start whacking it with a hammer. make sure you record it because we all want to laugh when you brick your grandpa's transmission.
now be a good boy and get your camera equipment out of grandpa's shop. go ahead and smoke whatever stash you were in the garage looking for originally and then get out. quit messing with his tools and quit trying to convince youtube that you know anything about anything. tool.
That was epic, im having a hard time removing super seized rusted pins that keep my front brake pads on. Ive battled for about 12 hrs and im on the last one. How do you use a balljoint tool to get that out easier? OR any other tips?
@@myalternatemeswordofthefor4928 what kind of car is it? i cannot recall an application where spring pins are holding brake pads.
if at all possible, use an acetylene torch to try and melt it out or at least make it molten enough for the punch to work. or disconnect the brake line (after pinching it off) and replace the whole caliper, remembering to bleed the air. if you replace one side, you will likely need to to the other side as well.
for a balljoint tool to work, you need your roll (spring) pin removal tool to be short enough to fit in the chomper and then you will have the hexbolt on that tool which will give you the ability to drive the punch with an impact driver or a breaker bar setup for max torque
@@icyuranus404 Thanks for the knowledge man. Its a 2002 toyota tacoma. I fought with the 4 pins for about 15 hrs lol. I got them out but only after bashing on em forever and mushrooming the head and then having to cut the mushroom off so i can continue to hammer it even though it never looked like it would move but eventually it did, I used a propane torch, a sledgehammer and a few punches and chisels and a dremel tool and a whole can of wd40. That was brutal, but stoked its done now.Im gonna invest in a ball joint tool haha. Also a compressor and Air hammer to air hammer the sob into the next dimension if that ever happens again haha. ( the pins were so seized that after removing them, the replacement pins fit really loose, bored it out i guess haha)
@@myalternatemeswordofthefor4928 yep my experience with roll pins is about the same every time. it feels like there should be an easy way about it, but it hardly ever is.glad to help. it always feels good to overcome obstacles.
your local advance auto or autozone will loan you a ball joint tool for free, but you will need to put a $200 hold for the cost of the tool on your bankcard until you return it.
air hammers use a lot of air and your average $400 home compressor will not keep up with running one wide open, but it should be good for short bursts. electric hammers like that can cost a bunch and might be too big but you might be able to get one at a pawn shop for under $100.
roll pins should not be loose. you might need to get a set with different sizes and go up a size. aside from roll pins, they are called spring pins i believe because they are made of spring steel and they work like a spring, applying steady pressure outward when drove into place.putting them in shouldn't be as difficult as taking them out, but they should not be loose in the hole or spin around at all. you almost need to press them in with a shop press or the balljoint tool (c-clamp maybe?) when possible, but not all locations will be suited for those tools and you might need to tap in with a hammer without mushrooming.
i have my eye on 2 roll pins that need to come out of some hydraulic equipment. they are in a location where i will be replacing them with bolts and nuts since clearance is not an issue and the part is not hidden out of sight if it does fail. but if i were to put roll pins back in, i would try coating the pin and hole with a light amount of anti-seize just in case it ever wants to come out again.
remember to clean your fingernails. the ladies like a strong hard working man, but they don't want dirty hands messing up their stuff.
@@icyuranus404 Lol true , at the end of the day its all about the ladies. Thanks man.
I need this fool :)
SO SICK. you are from spartanburg sc too!!!!
follow my build too. I'm located here also!
+Seng_Z32 right on...Im actually over near Clemson....but close
The Fab Forums cool. I saw your ad on a youtube video and I'm hooked!! Keep it up!
awesome....welcome to the channel. May try and make it to the Westgate car meet this Saturday
He said NIPPLE lol.
me gusta el canal pero soy ecuatoriano si se pudiera activen la traducción a español
what happen
AR15
Ml
I thought we has the same last name...
+julien foss close
you mist last fryday me and my budy that sint u the union stikers wer op set wat hapend. we watch u on r brack time at worck