It's actually the other way around, these pin punches are meant more for removing roll pins, or for final setting of roll pins. The punches you want for setting roll pins initially are called roll pin alignment punches, and they have a hollow section in the front where you insert the roll pin and it holds it steady while you initally set the pin in the bore. Then you can follow up with a set of the punches in this video to drive them all the way in, or use a regular punch.
What kind of applications would you use a roll pin for? vs the solid pin? I think of door hinges, but most of those have a little head on them so they don't fall through and out of the hinge. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and videos, Rodney
when they use these its like putting an inch round pin in a half inch round hole. its to hold something thing tight where a nut and bolt wounldnt work mainly....
I don't know, if the tip is just sitting inside the roll pin it may not need to be as hard as you think. Oh and you can't always just use any punch, on say vintage American airguns ( or current crosman pneumatic airguns ) it's easy to damage these roll pins and a proper punch is what you need. I've needed some, and I think these are now on my short list.
I had/sold two sets of Matco dual-drive stubby triple square & Torx sockets that were manufactured by Mayhew for MATCO. I think that qualifies their products as "professional"
The solid pins are hardened dowel pins and in imperial sizes they are made to the nominal fractional size plus 0.0002". They require a reamer to size hole for a proper fit. When fitted correctly they may be installed and removed numerous times as the hardened pins stretch the reamed hole material but not past it's elastic limit (for steel anyways) so the hole returns to it's reamed size when the pin is removed. Usually steel dowel pins are used to accurately locate two mating parts to each other. One part is usually reamed to size and the other often is reamed +0.0005, thus allowing the parts to be easily separated when the fasteners are removed, the pins remaining in one part ready for reassembly. Dowel pins are available with a tapped hole in the end to enable extraction from a blind hole. Roll spring pins are larger than the nominal size and do not require a reamed hole to fit correctly. Roll pins are fitted to "as drilled" holes. Roll pins can serve as a cheaper alternative to hardened and ground dowel pins and reaming is eliminated. The downside is that the roll pins are locked into both parts of an assembly and usually have to be driven out to separate the components. This is a nuisance for assemblies that are often separated for maintenance, etc. . You can fudge and drill one part slightly larger so the roll pin will slip in whilst still being compressed by the hole in the other part. This is helpful to do if one part has a blind hole. $18 for a good set of roll pin punches is a good deal compared to the time it could take to repair a part that you just buggered when the plain end punch slipped off the roll pin plus the pain from your ball peen hammer bopping your thumb. Cheers from NC/USA
It's actually the other way around, these pin punches are meant more for removing roll pins, or for final setting of roll pins. The punches you want for setting roll pins initially are called roll pin alignment punches, and they have a hollow section in the front where you insert the roll pin and it holds it steady while you initally set the pin in the bore. Then you can follow up with a set of the punches in this video to drive them all the way in, or use a regular punch.
Mayhew makes precision stuff that begs to be beaten
There is Mayhew Pro and Mayhew Select. Select is a little cheaper with 2 year warranty and Pro has lifetime I believe.
Looks like something I could use for giving a particular hammered finish to copper and such. $18 and USA-made-noice.
What kind of applications would you use a roll pin for? vs the solid pin? I think of door hinges, but most of those have a little head on them so they don't fall through and out of the hinge. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and videos, Rodney
when they use these its like putting an inch round pin in a half inch round hole. its to hold something thing tight where a nut and bolt wounldnt work mainly....
At least for me the most common place I've found them is in brake pedals where the pedal is attached to the lever mechanism
Lots of Workmate-type work benches have roll pins holding the handles on.
I don't know, if the tip is just sitting inside the roll pin it may not need to be as hard as you think.
Oh and you can't always just use any punch, on say vintage American airguns ( or current crosman pneumatic airguns ) it's easy to damage these roll pins and a proper punch is what you need.
I've needed some, and I think these are now on my short list.
Внедрённые шарики-хорошая задумка. Хотя, конечно, удорожает инструмент.Good tools.
Seen in a forum someone wrote they make punches and chisels for tool truck companies to include snap on, is this true or bull?
Not sure about snap on but definitely matco
Matco and mac, they also get their pry bars from mayhew. Snap on and cornwell make it in house with their own steel
I had/sold two sets of Matco dual-drive stubby triple square & Torx sockets that were manufactured by Mayhew for MATCO.
I think that qualifies their products as "professional"
Yeah they make all of matcos punches and chisels
The solid pins are hardened dowel pins and in imperial sizes they are made to the nominal fractional size plus 0.0002". They require a reamer to size hole for a proper fit. When fitted correctly they may be installed and removed numerous times as the hardened pins stretch the reamed hole material but not past it's elastic limit (for steel anyways) so the hole returns to it's reamed size when the pin is removed. Usually steel dowel pins are used to accurately locate two mating parts to each other. One part is usually reamed to size and the other often is reamed +0.0005, thus allowing the parts to be easily separated when the fasteners are removed, the pins remaining in one part ready for reassembly. Dowel pins are available with a tapped hole in the end to enable extraction from a blind hole.
Roll spring pins are larger than the nominal size and do not require a reamed hole to fit correctly. Roll pins are fitted to "as drilled" holes. Roll pins can serve as a cheaper alternative to hardened and ground dowel pins and reaming is eliminated. The downside is that the roll pins are locked into both parts of an assembly and usually have to be driven out to separate the components. This is a nuisance for assemblies that are often separated for maintenance, etc. . You can fudge and drill one part slightly larger so the roll pin will slip in whilst still being compressed by the hole in the other part. This is helpful to do if one part has a blind hole.
$18 for a good set of roll pin punches is a good deal compared to the time it could take to repair a part that you just buggered when the plain end punch slipped off the roll pin plus the pain from your ball peen hammer bopping your thumb.
Cheers from NC/USA
$18 is cheap for those. I have wanted a set for 30 years but never ran across any reasonable ones.
I think that I will get a set.
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