Another way to check for + and - leads is to use a digital multimeter. If you don't have one, pick one up, they are dirt cheap these days, and come in handy. Secure the leads of the multimeter to the leads of the adapter, keeping + an - separated. Then plug the adapter in the receptacle. Make sure the adapter is DC (not AC, as some are; I once fried a nice gadget because I plugged an AC adapter into the gadget which was DC) and make sure your multimeter is on DC Volts. If your leads are reversed, the multimeter will read with a negative sign in front of the voltage.
Also generally the positive have no markings on the insulation a negative will have a white line or some sort of indicator Maybe a rough Edge to it where the positive is a smooth
@Bryan212 I made the Nickel Acetate using the method you show in the other video, with vinegar, salt, and nickel anodes I bought online. It made a nice green solution. But I've tried test plating multiple different test pieces, the parts fizz / bubble like its working (although the anodes bubble some as well)... but I don't get any nickel plating whatsoever on the test parts, and yes I do have the negative lead connected to the parts, tested with multimeter just to be sure. *If* anything happens (other than bubbles) the part just gets a black coating. I've tried copper pennies and also a steel test piece, both turns black or nothing. I know the piece has to be clean, but even if it isn't clean I would expect to have some type of depositing, maybe not smoother or etc, but right now I get nothing or black. However, I did clean my test pieces mechanically with a wire brush on bench grinder, and I've tried several different chemical cleaners. Such as electrical cleaning spray (similar to non-chlorinated brake cleaner), then I tried muriatic acid. Always rinse part in distilled water after chemical cleaning. But neither cleaner seemed to make a difference. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong??
Very strange. Are you 'absolutely' sure you used 100% nickel? If any strange metals or welding flux is in your solution [mixed w/nickel] it will not plate. Seems like the black you mention is 'burning'. If your parts were not fully clean you woulf still see plating, but it would be inconsistent. Another possibility is your using too much volts/amps. But, again, you would have plating with pitting, splotting and inconsistency. So, i think you may have used 30 or 60% nickel and/or had welding fux in/on the rods. Let me know.
@@bryan2127 Hi Bryan Thanks for the Reply!! The nickel anodes are supposed to be 100% nickel specifically for plating. I bought them off... amazon I think it was, back about a month or so ago... if they aren't pure then... well false advertising i guess. I need to copper plate a steel part, and I found out (the hard way...) that in order to copper plate steel, I first have to nickel plate it. Which I wanted to do some nickel plating anyway, so didn't think it was a big deal. I'm using a 5v power supply, old phone charger, and I've checked it with a multimeter and it is putting out 5v with no load, and around 4.5v when connected to the anodes and a part. I also thought that maybe my voltage was to high...? But I am using a 3 gallon bath, two nickel anodes approx 1.5" inches wide by 6 inches long. I've tried small test pieces, such as a piece of steel and also pennies just so it was easier to see the color change... but they didn't... And I also just tried a larger piece of steel, about 4"x8" 1/16 thick, which is approx the size of the piece that I need to plate. I know I should have larger anodes for such a piece, but figured it might just plate slower...?
@Bryan 212 Here's a thought... I noticed on this larger steel plate that I tested last, there seems to be a few spots toward the bottom that appears to be... or looks like... copper?? But it doesn't wipe off??! Further how could copper get into my solution? I have the anodes clipped *Above* the water line. I did have some test parts hanging on copper wire before which was connected to the negative lead, could that wire have put off copper into the solution? Would that stop the nickel from plating at all?? But if that was the case... then why wouldn't a copper penny do the same thing when you nickel plate it....
well, I'm going to try to make one more batch of nickel acetate tonight. Rinsed my container out, then used 91% alcohol to clean it really well, then i let it dry a few minutes. This time I also wrapped my nickel anodes in coffee filters and rubber bands. As that should prevent the... "black stuff" (some other form of nickel i assume) that drops off the anodes at times from dropping off into the solution. It didn't drop much last time, but there was pieces of it in the bottom of the container. After I get the solution made, I sure hope I can get it to work this time, as I don't expect I'll have much left of my anodes after this, certainly not enough to make another batch.
well, after several hours, i checked my nickel bath. The penny was still mostly shiny copper, but there was a faint black on some of the wire and a very minute amount on the penny. I tried to wipe it off with a clean paper towel, very little came off, only know because I could see it on the towel, mostly from the wire. Most of the black was still on the wire and a tiny "shade" on the penny. So I washed it again in muriatic acid (which still didn't seem to remove the black... i wouldn't expect this would be "black nickel" ??), rinsed in distilled water, and placed back in the tank. I reinstalled my pencil lead "graphite resistor" into the power feed, and am going to let it sit in the bath overnight, see what happens... if anything. If I can't get this nickel bath to work, then i'm giving up on this method, already used 6 gallons of vinegar and after tonight I'd say my nickel anodes will be pretty thin, maybe even hole-ly. Just doesn't make sense why it won't work, i got my copper bath to work even when I didn't know as much about plating as I do now. if the black i found was from burning, then that means I must have a conductive enough bath... so adding more salt would only make it burn more or burn faster (at least I would think so)... still doesn't explain why there is absolutely Zero nickel on my test penny... on the flip side the bath is getting greener, so the nickel ions must still be going into solution... well, if I can't get this method to work, then I'll have to wait until I get some more money before I can revisit nickel plating.
So here is an oddball question. I am wanting to refurbish piano pedals. The part that is outside the piano is to be nickel. The part inside does not have to be as fancy, but I want some rust protection, so am considering bluing. Now because of the odd shape and size, I am not confident with how much of the pedal will be immersed in the solution. Does anyone know if I can mask off where I don't need the nickel plating, and if so, would electrical tape work without contaminating the solution? Of course, I could just TRY it on some other piece of steel, but also like to learn from other's experience. Thanks!
Hi. Top job and tutorials! Just subbed immediately when I saw this! I have a BOWIE knife I need to replate. Can I mask up plastic bits on handle and plate it like your tutorial? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia!🙂👍👍👍
ive been trying to plate steel with copper for months. a durable finish. it always wipes off. what i have learned: degrease and clean the steel. use a phone charger. low v and a is best. all i am missing is a source of nickel. i want to nickel plate the steel before i plate it with copper. i just cant find a source of nickel. i will keep my eye out for nickel welding rods afyer watching this video!!!
You can get a 1x4in strip of nickel from a old AA NiCd battery, it has holes in it so makes a good anode you just need to use some sandpaper or a blade stone and get all the battery crap off it get it shiny. That's if you don't have welding rods like I have a huge box but they are steel core ); I'm going to try it tonight with my old nitro rc car engine sleeve, hope it works I've done electroplate before but not like this and not nickel ill let u know if it comes out good. DONT CUT UR SELF OPENING THE BATTERY I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE and only NiCd will work!
Great video... Where did you learn about the soy sauce for a degreaser? That's a new one for me! I watched the video on making the nickel acetate. How did you make the copper acetate? Same way?
I learned it from a guy who works with brass badges, etc. i was suprised too, but it works like a champ. copper solution is a bit different, you can just let copper pipe piece disolve in pure vinegar, or there is a product made by Zep called, "root killer" at home depot. it is almost pure copper crystals. some states dont sell it. im in the pacific NW and its in all store. maybe i will make a vid.
i bought a pack of Forney 45400's w/12 rods. they were $36.95 at Ace. it was worth it, they are 99% nickel, the 1% is the flux on the outside you rub off with a knife. everyrhing else i looked for was plated nickel. i still have 7 rods left and i have been plating for over 2 yrs.....lots of parts. Amazon had them for $41.
Hey! Great tutorial, thank you :) I was wondering if there's a way to tell if a part I already have is nickel, zinc or chromium plated? I want to replate some bycicle parts for a restoration.
Should not have used the steel wool. You wont get those scratches out without buffing down past the plating. Hydrocloric acid works great to strip crap off. 60 seconds and you can rinse with water and plate it. No scratches...
Super gemacht, baue gerade eine Anlage zum Eloxieren und Galvanisieren....viel Erfolg bei deinen Versuchen....herzliche Grüsse vom Lake Konstance, Peter
so it's important to brush the parts with say a SS brush in order to make the surface ready even if it is already nickel plated and you want to plate copper on?? is this why my quarters are not working? i am using canadian quarters and no matter what i try it does now work well,i brushed them too ,are they not nickle plated already? the alligator clips i am using to hold the part actually got nicely coated and came out great,yet i never scrubbed it or done nothing and i held them so there must have been skin oil on it yet it worked so wtf??
here soon I will be getting a tetragrammaton ring with the hebrew names of The Lord God. the ring is made of brass and I will be nickel plating it at home using your method. If I wear it everyday should I plate it for like fifteen or twenty minutes and then flip it to the other side and repeat? or should I plate it for longer?
Does the temp have to stay constant ? You recommend about 120f - but what if you have a few parts you want to plate - so by the time you get to the last part your temp would have dropped.
It is not critical, but the warmer the solution the better the plating. I tend to heat the nickel acetate up in and old pan and use a temp gauge to get it close to 120-140. There have been times when I plate several parts and the solution drops to 95 by the time I am done. All in all just dont plate with cold or room temp solution or it will take longer and not plate smoothly.
Sounds to me like your nickel was not "pure" or you had dirty metal. Pure vinegar with some salt and a pure nickel anode and diode should disolve clear green.
Hey Bryan, I have an old wood working plane that the nickel plating is gone or flaking off in several spots, but I'd say almost 70% of the plating is intact. I was wondering if you might have an idea on how to strip off the remaining plating so that I can re-plate it. So far everything I've read mentions to use acids and the like, but I was wondering if its viable to remove the plating via electrolysis? Ie. Placing the cathode on the plated part, so the nickel is stripped away? Let me know if you think this would work
Daniel De La Pena - Yes, i have removed plating by electrolysis and it works pretty good. The main thing you want to try and find out is if it is nickel, zinc or chromium. If it is zinc or nickel go ahead and reverse the electrolysis and keep an eye on it. I should transfer (deplete) the nickel or zinc faily qickly [5-15 minutes??]. Chromium is a different story, it is more toxic and needs to be done outside and maybe better suited to be sanded. You will have to do some fine sanding after the electrolysis and clean the block plain of all oils, etc. The better the prep work [smooth surface and clean] the better the plaiting will turn out. Watch out for pitting when reversing the electrolysis. It is better to use less volts/amps and take for time to avoid burning and pitting. Good luck.
Bryan 212 Thank you for all of the knowledge! I'm fairly certain its nickle, it's an old Stanley no.46 at least 75 years old. I'm planning on using a battery charger that goes down to 2 amps, is that low enough amperage?
Great video, do you know of plating Brass to Steel or Iron? I don't want to "Burnish" the steel I want to actually plate it. It would be a pain to try and cast the pieces out of brass (that I want plated)
mark tucker - Brass plating is interesting, bcz it is a combination of zinc and copper. There are a couple simple “kinda” brass playing ideas. 1). Plate your metal with zinc and then re-plate it in a copper solution on a super mild voltage for a short period as to get the object brass looking. 2). Plate object zinc, then plate object copper and then head object to melt the two platings together. That’s the best I can tell you.
idk what the hell is going on with my setup ?,,to get a solution ready i mix even parts distilled water and vinegar and add iodized sea salt(maybe a bad idea),some citirc acid and hydrogen peroxide(turns solution light green as soon as i put it in while the current is running ),i place the ends of freshly striped copper wires to each of my leads that are hooked to a 9v bat and start getting the solution to turn up the copper sulfate ,i notice the negative wire starts getting a bit black or gunky while the positive remains somewhat the same and clean ,,but i also have a nice long flat piece of copper strip i usually use for the plating and when i try using that it start getting the same brownish formation on its surface ,could this be because i introduced some bad elements into the solution by having cleaned the strip with steel wool or SS brush ,kerosene and methanol and washed those off with water? what am i doing wrong because i think this problem is not making my plating work as it is building gunk on my part(canadian dime or quarter)
If you mean to make the nickel electrolyte - creating the green vinegar. You just use two pieces of nickel on both the positive and negative (cathode and anode) and let it run for a few hours, the vinegar will turn green and it should last forever and the anode should replenish the electrolyte as you use it. As long as you don't ruin the solution through contamination.
These are the best home plating videos I have seen after watching a couple dozen. I watched yours three times. Good job!!!
cncrichard1 - Thanks, bud. I try to do a good job, but I am new to making vids.
Great video. I have brass train track parts to nickel plate and you have given me renewed energy and enthusiasm!
I'm finally making my nickel acetate today with your method!!!! Yay!
Very cool. I have a certain fascination with nickel. I think it's a woefully underappreciated metal.
Great video, ... Also watched the one before this to make the solution, very helpful , thanks for sharing ;-)
Another way to check for + and - leads is to use a digital multimeter. If you don't have one, pick one up, they are dirt cheap these days, and come in handy. Secure the leads of the multimeter to the leads of the adapter, keeping + an - separated. Then plug the adapter in the receptacle. Make sure the adapter is DC (not AC, as some are; I once fried a nice gadget because I plugged an AC adapter into the gadget which was DC) and make sure your multimeter is on DC Volts. If your leads are reversed, the multimeter will read with a negative sign in front of the voltage.
Thanks, I have one, use it all the time. But, some people may not, therefore just showing another method.
Also generally the positive have no markings on the insulation a negative will have a white line or some sort of indicator Maybe a rough Edge to it where the positive is a smooth
The older chargers usually have 800milli amps and the new ones 1000-2000.
@Bryan212 I made the Nickel Acetate using the method you show in the other video, with vinegar, salt, and nickel anodes I bought online. It made a nice green solution. But I've tried test plating multiple different test pieces, the parts fizz / bubble like its working (although the anodes bubble some as well)... but I don't get any nickel plating whatsoever on the test parts, and yes I do have the negative lead connected to the parts, tested with multimeter just to be sure. *If* anything happens (other than bubbles) the part just gets a black coating. I've tried copper pennies and also a steel test piece, both turns black or nothing. I know the piece has to be clean, but even if it isn't clean I would expect to have some type of depositing, maybe not smoother or etc, but right now I get nothing or black. However, I did clean my test pieces mechanically with a wire brush on bench grinder, and I've tried several different chemical cleaners. Such as electrical cleaning spray (similar to non-chlorinated brake cleaner), then I tried muriatic acid. Always rinse part in distilled water after chemical cleaning. But neither cleaner seemed to make a difference.
Anyone know what I'm doing wrong??
Very strange. Are you 'absolutely' sure you used 100% nickel? If any strange metals or welding flux is in your solution [mixed w/nickel] it will not plate. Seems like the black you mention is 'burning'. If your parts were not fully clean you woulf still see plating, but it would be inconsistent. Another possibility is your using too much volts/amps. But, again, you would have plating with pitting, splotting and inconsistency. So, i think you may have used 30 or 60% nickel and/or had welding fux in/on the rods. Let me know.
@@bryan2127 Hi Bryan Thanks for the Reply!! The nickel anodes are supposed to be 100% nickel specifically for plating. I bought them off... amazon I think it was, back about a month or so ago... if they aren't pure then... well false advertising i guess.
I need to copper plate a steel part, and I found out (the hard way...) that in order to copper plate steel, I first have to nickel plate it. Which I wanted to do some nickel plating anyway, so didn't think it was a big deal.
I'm using a 5v power supply, old phone charger, and I've checked it with a multimeter and it is putting out 5v with no load, and around 4.5v when connected to the anodes and a part. I also thought that maybe my voltage was to high...? But I am using a 3 gallon bath, two nickel anodes approx 1.5" inches wide by 6 inches long. I've tried small test pieces, such as a piece of steel and also pennies just so it was easier to see the color change... but they didn't... And I also just tried a larger piece of steel, about 4"x8" 1/16 thick, which is approx the size of the piece that I need to plate. I know I should have larger anodes for such a piece, but figured it might just plate slower...?
@Bryan 212 Here's a thought... I noticed on this larger steel plate that I tested last, there seems to be a few spots toward the bottom that appears to be... or looks like... copper?? But it doesn't wipe off??! Further how could copper get into my solution? I have the anodes clipped *Above* the water line. I did have some test parts hanging on copper wire before which was connected to the negative lead, could that wire have put off copper into the solution? Would that stop the nickel from plating at all?? But if that was the case... then why wouldn't a copper penny do the same thing when you nickel plate it....
well, I'm going to try to make one more batch of nickel acetate tonight. Rinsed my container out, then used 91% alcohol to clean it really well, then i let it dry a few minutes. This time I also wrapped my nickel anodes in coffee filters and rubber bands. As that should prevent the... "black stuff" (some other form of nickel i assume) that drops off the anodes at times from dropping off into the solution. It didn't drop much last time, but there was pieces of it in the bottom of the container. After I get the solution made, I sure hope I can get it to work this time, as I don't expect I'll have much left of my anodes after this, certainly not enough to make another batch.
well, after several hours, i checked my nickel bath. The penny was still mostly shiny copper, but there was a faint black on some of the wire and a very minute amount on the penny. I tried to wipe it off with a clean paper towel, very little came off, only know because I could see it on the towel, mostly from the wire. Most of the black was still on the wire and a tiny "shade" on the penny. So I washed it again in muriatic acid (which still didn't seem to remove the black... i wouldn't expect this would be "black nickel" ??), rinsed in distilled water, and placed back in the tank. I reinstalled my pencil lead "graphite resistor" into the power feed, and am going to let it sit in the bath overnight, see what happens... if anything.
If I can't get this nickel bath to work, then i'm giving up on this method, already used 6 gallons of vinegar and after tonight I'd say my nickel anodes will be pretty thin, maybe even hole-ly. Just doesn't make sense why it won't work, i got my copper bath to work even when I didn't know as much about plating as I do now. if the black i found was from burning, then that means I must have a conductive enough bath... so adding more salt would only make it burn more or burn faster (at least I would think so)... still doesn't explain why there is absolutely Zero nickel on my test penny... on the flip side the bath is getting greener, so the nickel ions must still be going into solution... well, if I can't get this method to work, then I'll have to wait until I get some more money before I can revisit nickel plating.
So here is an oddball question. I am wanting to refurbish piano pedals. The part that is outside the piano is to be nickel. The part inside does not have to be as fancy, but I want some rust protection, so am considering bluing. Now because of the odd shape and size, I am not confident with how much of the pedal will be immersed in the solution. Does anyone know if I can mask off where I don't need the nickel plating, and if so, would electrical tape work without contaminating the solution? Of course, I could just TRY it on some other piece of steel, but also like to learn from other's experience. Thanks!
Hi. Top job and tutorials! Just subbed immediately when I saw this! I have a BOWIE knife I need to replate. Can I mask up plastic bits on handle and plate it like your tutorial? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia!🙂👍👍👍
ive been trying to plate steel with copper for months. a durable finish. it always wipes off. what i have learned: degrease and clean the steel. use a phone charger. low v and a is best. all i am missing is a source of nickel. i want to nickel plate the steel before i plate it with copper. i just cant find a source of nickel. i will keep my eye out for nickel welding rods afyer watching this video!!!
Ralph, you need to plate steel with Nickel first. Then, plate over the nickel with copper and it will hold well.
Nice video if I was to nickel plate a penny or a copper object how do you reverse it back to its original copper stage ???
You can get a 1x4in strip of nickel from a old AA NiCd battery, it has holes in it so makes a good anode you just need to use some sandpaper or a blade stone and get all the battery crap off it get it shiny. That's if you don't have welding rods like I have a huge box but they are steel core ); I'm going to try it tonight with my old nitro rc car engine sleeve, hope it works I've done electroplate before but not like this and not nickel ill let u know if it comes out good. DONT CUT UR SELF OPENING THE BATTERY I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE and only NiCd will work!
Nickel anodes are available from AMAZON at a reasonable price.
Bryan where can i get the rods? What name are they, etc. Thanks!
HI, what happened to the string nickel it gets corrosion?
Great video...
Where did you learn about the soy sauce for a degreaser? That's a new one for me!
I watched the video on making the nickel acetate. How did you make the copper acetate? Same way?
I learned it from a guy who works with brass badges, etc. i was suprised too, but it works like a champ. copper solution is a bit different, you can just let copper pipe piece disolve in pure vinegar, or there is a product made by Zep called, "root killer" at home depot. it is almost pure copper crystals. some states dont sell it. im in the pacific NW and its in all store. maybe i will make a vid.
Another question... where did you buy the nickel welding rod? I found them on the internet, but in packages of 30, and they ain't cheap!
i bought a pack of Forney 45400's w/12 rods. they were $36.95 at Ace. it was worth it, they are 99% nickel, the 1% is the flux on the outside you rub off with a knife. everyrhing else i looked for was plated nickel. i still have 7 rods left and i have been plating for over 2 yrs.....lots of parts. Amazon had them for $41.
Hey! Great tutorial, thank you :) I was wondering if there's a way to tell if a part I already have is nickel, zinc or chromium plated? I want to replate some bycicle parts for a restoration.
can the same process be adapted to plate pure nickel sheets with a negatively charged material?
Should not have used the steel wool. You wont get those scratches out without buffing down past the plating.
Hydrocloric acid works great to strip crap off. 60 seconds and you can rinse with water and plate it.
No scratches...
Thx. This video was to answer charger and other questions. I use other methods, such as acid to clean.
so it is not necessary to scratch and make the part surface more adherent to the ions?
03006256530call me
Tell me more about the green solution.
Super gemacht, baue gerade eine Anlage zum Eloxieren und Galvanisieren....viel Erfolg bei deinen Versuchen....herzliche Grüsse vom Lake Konstance, Peter
Hey Peter Interesse an eine Zusammenarbeit?
I use rubbingalcohol to degrease, works great.
Also Acetone (Plain Polish Nail Remover) is good for cleaning metals.
Its about the amps not only the voltage.
I tried a 9v battery with 200~300 mAh ;D
it drained quickly
I used a pc power supply 3v at 30 amps, almost instantaneous.
Great video. But can I nickel plate over old nickel plate and if so how? Its an old nickel plated razor if that helps. Thanks.
so it's important to brush the parts with say a SS brush in order to make the surface ready even if it is already nickel plated and you want to plate copper on?? is this why my quarters are not working? i am using canadian quarters and no matter what i try it does now work well,i brushed them too ,are they not nickle plated already? the alligator clips i am using to hold the part actually got nicely coated and came out great,yet i never scrubbed it or done nothing and i held them so there must have been skin oil on it yet it worked so wtf??
here soon I will be getting a tetragrammaton ring with the hebrew names of The Lord God. the ring is made of brass and I will be nickel plating it at home using your method. If I wear it everyday should I plate it for like fifteen or twenty minutes and then flip it to the other side and repeat? or should I plate it for longer?
is it safe to heat in the microwave of will the suspended nickle in the solution start sparking?
Does the temp have to stay constant ? You recommend about 120f - but what if you have a few parts you want to plate - so by the time you get to the last part your temp would have dropped.
It is not critical, but the warmer the solution the better the plating. I tend to heat the nickel acetate up in and old pan and use a temp gauge to get it close to 120-140. There have been times when I plate several parts and the solution drops to 95 by the time I am done. All in all just dont plate with cold or room temp solution or it will take longer and not plate smoothly.
white stripe on the + wire...- wire is plain black.
Great upload, thanks and subscribed.
My solution came out cloudy green then settled a day later. Is there supposed to be sediment or did I blow it? I guess I'll find out soon enough.
Sounds to me like your nickel was not "pure" or you had dirty metal. Pure vinegar with some salt and a pure nickel anode and diode should disolve clear green.
Hey Bryan, I have an old wood working plane that the nickel plating is gone or flaking off in several spots, but I'd say almost 70% of the plating is intact. I was wondering if you might have an idea on how to strip off the remaining plating so that I can re-plate it. So far everything I've read mentions to use acids and the like, but I was wondering if its viable to remove the plating via electrolysis? Ie. Placing the cathode on the plated part, so the nickel is stripped away? Let me know if you think this would work
Daniel De La Pena - Yes, i have removed plating by electrolysis and it works pretty good. The main thing you want to try and find out is if it is nickel, zinc or chromium. If it is zinc or nickel go ahead and reverse the electrolysis and keep an eye on it. I should transfer (deplete) the nickel or zinc faily qickly [5-15 minutes??]. Chromium is a different story, it is more toxic and needs to be done outside and maybe better suited to be sanded. You will have to do some fine sanding after the electrolysis and clean the block plain of all oils, etc. The better the prep work [smooth surface and clean] the better the plaiting will turn out. Watch out for pitting when reversing the electrolysis. It is better to use less volts/amps and take for time to avoid burning and pitting. Good luck.
Bryan 212 Thank you for all of the knowledge! I'm fairly certain its nickle, it's an old Stanley no.46 at least 75 years old. I'm planning on using a battery charger that goes down to 2 amps, is that low enough amperage?
Great video. you should edit it down a bit, but great info. Thanks !
Did I just hear some Skillet?
Great video, do you know of plating Brass to Steel or Iron? I don't want to "Burnish" the steel I want to actually plate it. It would be a pain to try and cast the pieces out of brass (that I want plated)
mark tucker - Brass plating is interesting, bcz it is a combination of zinc and copper. There are a couple simple “kinda” brass playing ideas. 1). Plate your metal with zinc and then re-plate it in a copper solution on a super mild voltage for a short period as to get the object brass looking. 2). Plate object zinc, then plate object copper and then head object to melt the two platings together. That’s the best I can tell you.
"and then head object to " what did you mean by that?
@@ARCSTREAMS heat bro
@@sajeevagahlawat9279 thx , 3 years later lol
idk what the hell is going on with my setup ?,,to get a solution ready i mix even parts distilled water and vinegar and add iodized sea salt(maybe a bad idea),some citirc acid and hydrogen peroxide(turns solution light green as soon as i put it in while the current is running ),i place the ends of freshly striped copper wires to each of my leads that are hooked to a 9v bat and start getting the solution to turn up the copper sulfate ,i notice the negative wire starts getting a bit black or gunky while the positive remains somewhat the same and clean ,,but i also have a nice long flat piece of copper strip i usually use for the plating and when i try using that it start getting the same brownish formation on its surface ,could this be because i introduced some bad elements into the solution by having cleaned the strip with steel wool or SS brush ,kerosene and methanol and washed those off with water? what am i doing wrong because i think this problem is not making my plating work as it is building gunk on my part(canadian dime or quarter)
and my solution bath looks green not blue?
hi ,can you confirm the salt content? you said half a teaspoon but i think the text said half a table spoon ?thanks
I have a video i made last year that specifically instructs how to make the nickel acetate. Check it out on my channel.
Will this work on any conductive surface? I'm thinking of trying a zinc spray coated object.
I have heard of people coating a plastic part with a copper spray and then nickel plating it. I assume a zinc object would work.
7:29 He keeps saying "copper" but doesn't he really mean brass?
Nice vid...btw...this is an Drum plate? intersting...
Thanks. Yea, its a plate that goes on a snare drum. I make solid stave drums. I have a video of one I made that this plate went to.
Nice!.Im going to nickel plating some snare hardware...just testing.
Can electroplating nickel onto copper prolong life for soldering tips?
Robert s - Hmmmm, I am not sure. Soldering tips may be stainless steel or chromium. But, I am guessing
How to extract nickel to metal intstead ofplating ?
If you mean to make the nickel electrolyte - creating the green vinegar. You just use two pieces of nickel on both the positive and negative (cathode and anode) and let it run for a few hours, the vinegar will turn green and it should last forever and the anode should replenish the electrolyte as you use it. As long as you don't ruin the solution through contamination.
how do you remove the flux from nickel rod?
Shalley Ina - i just take a utility knife and shave it off. Then I clean the rod w/rubbing alcohol.
who give it a thumbsdown? could not be better!
Thnx bud.
nickel on brass
can silver get nickel plate
I know people silver- plate onto nickel, so i would assume it will work in reverse. I do not know why you would want plating over real silver?
Hello, what is the amperage of the charger?
let me check and i will get back.
how much water i put
Faissal zin, watch this video of mine: ua-cam.com/video/8dF2nKDAtEg/v-deo.html
No don’t hook it to your rod!!! 🤪 and long strokes. I thought this was UA-cam???😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Soy sauce to clean the parts your funny dude, don't you have rubbing alc common lol.
Dude, you totally ruined your nice brass….
Good video butt baaaaaaaaaaaaaaad music. Make my ears bleed.