Unbelievably Easy Soldering Process for LiPo Connectors on Speed Run Cars
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- No, you don't need to be a Professional, it's that easy
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Soldering Technique using AS150 Connectors on 4s 8000mAh packs for speed runs!
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I watched the entire video and I think that overall it’s a great video. I see a lot of you placing solder on the iron, then applying it to the wire. When I was taught soldering we were taught to put the iron on the wire from the bottom and apply solder from the top.. to get it flowing at first you can touch the iron with some solder while in contact with the wire, but then feed the solder into to top of the wire. This also helps keep the rest of the wire cool, if the whole wire gets too hot because of long exposure to heat, the solder will travel down the wire making it stiff and increase the likelihood of failure.
But other than that little difference we have, great video and Thankyou for all your teachings!
That's probably why he finds the need to apply external flux first. Putting all the solder on the iron first burns off all the flux in the solder. If you apply solder to the item as intended, you generally don't need the extra flux.
Good point, I'll give it a go!
You are correct..how he does it, makes it prone to s cold solder, looks like it's good, but will cause all sorts of bad connection/ failure...how he shows it is not the way to solder...altho he has some good advice generally, this vid I wont see as good advice..his wire is not saturated with solder, and it is not all the way through melted...I won't use his battery in any of my helis .
@@sapphiresphone7144it's not about the flux, it's about the tin being got enough and the whole wire to receive and bond with the tin..how he does it causes a cold solder, look it up, won't hold and causes all sorts of problems .
Terrific walk through of your process. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Wire strippers, helping hands, wire cutters, wire nips, always twist to the point of termination, you just want to score the outside of the jacketing and bend back and forth until it breaks free breaks loose, then remove, you don’t want to score all the way down to the point where you would even have the possibility of nicking / damaging the copper, let the soldering iron come fully to temp, once soldering iron is at temp place soldering iron tip to copper, let the solder melt into the copper, should have a solid few mm of solder that melts down into the wire underneath the jacketing, save yourself stress get solder with flux core. That’s how I feel anyways.
Now do that 10 more times if you haven’t done it before until you get ready to do the actual work.
also… crimps bruh
crimp those bullets in place
stop turning your soldering iron off
in the end you got it done though also love so many of your videos
Thank you for contributing to the community with knowledge.
Dude, you so need a torch and a soldering jig. Makes a clean job easy and quick!
As with most soldering videos on UA-cam, I’m in disagreement with how this was done. I’ve been soldering for well over 30 years, and one thing that a lot of people fail to realize, is that generally both surfaces to be soldered, should be brought up to the same temp as the solder to be melted.
Too many times I see people melting solder on the soldering iron and then applying it to the surface to be soldered.
Imagine if plumbers melted solder and then applied it to a cold copper pipe…. It wouldn’t stick or flow correctly. That is the reason they heat the pipe first and then apply the solder.
A little test to prove what I’m saying is correct…. Melt some solder on a soldering iron and apply it to the outside of a bullet connector. When it cools, scratch it off with your fingernail and see how easily it comes off.
Test number two… Heat up the same bullet connector with your soldering iron and then apply the solder to it. You will not be able to scratch it off.
For beginners, I would recommend cutting away the connector from the wire. This allows you to retain the full length of the wire as well as retain the factory tinned ends. If you do not know how to tin wires correctly, you can cause excess solder to wick it’s way up the wire, which will stiffen the wire and eventually cause breakage.
I would also recommend to have a set of helping hands. Those are literally a must have for easier, almost hands free soldering.
After you’ve cut the connector away (if possible) or have de-soldered it, stick that end of the wire in the helping hands. Tin the bullet connector with a small amount of solder. Align both the wire and connector in the helping hands as straight as possible.
Apply solder to the soldering iron (for thermal transfer) and hold the soldering iron against and below the connector. As soon as you see the solder inside of the bullet connector melting, feed any additional solder to the inside of the connector as needed.
Thankyou for this. I don’t know where people picked up this habit of putting solder on the iron and the painting it on to the wire. And all that excessive heat is definitely causing wicking.
@@onewheelmagic painting the solder on the wire is definitely a good way of describing it. You’re welcome.
Good points covered, thanks for that. Quite different than I've been taught, but i haven't been trained professionally in this area.
I would like to clarify one item, when the solder is placed on to the iron and then on to the material being soldered, the gun is held on spot for a long while until all material is at equal temperature during the soldering of the connector.
Using this process, I have not had any wicking settle past the end of the connector and really can't see how it could easily wick further with the internal wire Flux well removed by this point and the applied Flux non existent past the connector.
@@RCexplained if you put solder onto the soldering iron and touch it to the surface to be soldered, then yes both surfaces will eventually reach the same temp, but there is no way to tell if that surface has actually reached the same temp. It’s assumed by most, that when they paint (best way to describe it) on the solder to the surface to be solder and it sticks; that that surface has reached the same temp; but even melted solder can fall onto a surface appear that it’s adhered to that surface, and with the right about if force, it will come right off.
But by heating the surface to be soldered, and then touching the solder to that surface (to make the solder melt), you know for sure that surface to be soldered has reached the same temperature w/o having to hold the soldering iron to that surface for longer than needed. It takes the guess work out of it.
As far as wicking goes… when soldering, the flux (rosin core) melts just before the solder does. So solder can easily wick itself through all the strands of wire because of the flux. Flux helps solder to flow freely (thus the reason why solder connections on PCB’s look so perfect), and it also helps to remove impurities.
When tinning a wire, it’s normal to add a small amount of solder to the soldering iron and touch it to the wire for thermal transfer. You would then feed any additional solder to that wire, until you feel that the majority of the strands have soaked up solder. At that point, that’s is where it’s easy to add too much solder. Because the flux will help the solder continue to wick well beyond the insulation of the wire. Seems kind of crazy, but it happens. That’s the very reason why some wires won’t have any flex pass the insulation. And that’s where breakage within the wire can occur.
When you apply solder to the soldering iron first, you are burning off the flux (rosin) before your soldering iron makes it to the surface to be soldered. That the very reason why when people attempt to paint solder on to surfaces, it looks lumpy. There’s no flux to make it flow. Flux can always be added afterwards and you can never add too much flux. No clean flux should evaporate where as other types of flux need to be wiped away with rubbing alcohol.
Sorry if I may have sounded a bit repetitive. Just making sure what I’m saying makes sense.
I made a video on how to correctly solder connectors a while back and never got around to uploading it. But since seeing this video, I’m going to get to it. When I do, I’ll send you the link.
Understood. I don't disagree with your method, however I don't see how it can be that drastically different. Both methods have flow that can visibly be seen and both methods require getting all materials up to temp or nothing properly works. What is most important in my opinion is the solder melting again where you can't see it, that is under the wire against the connector. One could argue that melting solder by touching the roll directly to the top side of the wire doesn't guarantee the bottom side is hot enough. I wouldn't make this argument but am just saying.
When all materials are up to temperature, you do see the solder flow in to all areas, leaving a nice smooth finish. Thats how i know when to take the gun off. In the video it was a good 5 seconds but i did cut some time out of the video here for sense of time.
It's also very well visible that the solder on the bottom face of the wire that you cant see melts as everything gets up to temperature and further seats itself slightly lower in to the connector. I did show the smooth shiny looking solder joint in the video. it's on the thumbnail too. This joint won't break, won't scratch peel away and would require bringing it back up to melting temp to release. The wire has well solidified solder all the way around the joint.
Outside of tinning, I would not call this painting solder on to the materials. The solder is flowing all around, through and under all areas of the joint and you can watch and see this happen right while completing the joint.
I do now see that the extra steps I added to cure OCD after the main solder joint could cause significant confusion with this idea of painting solder on. These additional areas I touched up was unnecessary and don't add anything to the current carrying capacity of the joint.
AS150 connectors are becoming loose most of the time, I try to tighten the ring inside but it doesn't seem to work very well.. Any advice dear friend?
I have been using the for quite some time and have not encountered this
Hey Buddy! Heating up y’all’s scissors or strippers with a torch makes stripping the very easy and precise.
Thanks for the tip
@@RCexplained you’re welcome, bud!
I use a torch and a heated soaker on my wires and bullet connectors so that they don't wick solder anymore than I need to on the wire causing hard points near the connectors that eventually get brittle. You can also use a rag with ice and magnets or a clamp. I found out the hard way that there are a few ways to do it right and 100s of ways to do it wrong, in the beginning, using a torch, lol. A soldering iron is easier for those first trying it or those that are too lazy to change the tip like me. A good fat soldering iron tip that can hold heat is important when using a soldering iron. You can have a high-power iron and the wrong tip can make it worthless for heavy gauge wires and connectors.
I always clean the flux off the soldering job with alcohol before covering with insulation. So there's no acidic corrosion later.
Rosin flux ("no-clean") has basically zero corrosive properties, at room temperature it reverts to solid form (dark brown-ish residue) and from my soldering/electronics experience (>20 years) I never had any issues regarding corrosion.
Thanks for that info.
Great Point Eden!
Helpful in terms of the method and order of the process but but would be much better, as a video presentation, if the camera shots on the work piece were taken much closer in so that the detail could been seen more clearly.
Noted, the camera stand I normally use for close ups was not around on the day of recording.
and what is the best type of soldering? type of core?
Rosin core ( never acid core) for electronics.
Agree
Im using AS150 connectors over one year. But rather use two males on the battery. So the antispark protection has every battery. Another reason is, i do not want that anyone connect one battery together. Your solution is better for serial connections. Because do not need additional female-female wire as im using. Maybee sometimes i switch to combination males/females as you have. But now, when sometimes many childs are on the track, rather not. For better safety.
Great Connectors!
Try burning the insulation off with a lighter sometime and pull it off while it's hot. Guaranteed not to remove any wires
@alwaysflying6540 I didn't know. so silicone can't melt like that? Feel like I need to go test this out.
@@sammiller2249
It lets out some nasty smoke and leaves a powder-ish white residue. Silicone insulation doesn't actually melt as opposed to pvc insulation, if you're experienced in soldering RC connectors you don't need a wire stripper, light pinch with your thumb nail will do
@alwaysflying6540 so basically the same technique i use for installing car audio amplifier wiring
Do not cut both battery wires at the same time!!! ⚡⚡⚡
*PromoSM* 😉
Why do this guy never answer a question????
Is this the question?