bodgit and leggit garage Thank You. Next I will have to do a video on the type of tanks that are not well ventilated, if I get one to do. Those kind I do when there still full of gas. LOL
instead of putting gas back in it to test it and finding it has another leak and having to redo clearing the gas / fumes out of the tank... I duck tape the tank openings and use an air hose and put just a little pressure in the tank and use a spay bottle with dish soap and water to see if it is leaking... Just like you do for testing tire leaks.
kiddiescripterkiller You shouldn’t pressurize a gas tank. A little bit to much pressure you will screw the tank up. I’ve never had one leak that I’ve fixed. But I still make sure there is no leaks.
1970chevelle396 I wasn't talking about tire pressures... Only need a very slight air pressure... Or use a gas line hose and blow into line just to put a slight pressure on the tank.
I do a lot of soldering at work, I would recommend wearing gloves (we use nitrile ones at work) and washing hands thoroughly afterwards, solder can be nasty stuff. Great video!
I only have three working brain cells. I didn't used to wear gloves. Now I wear them, to keep my few remaining cells working. Linda and I send our best.
We still use 63/37 tin-lead solder. We do very high reliability work, and don't use lead-free because it's more brittle (it also requires higher temperatures to melt, which affects component life). Some people say that's why electronics don't last like they used to, but I'm not an engineer, I just build what they draw up.
I have a 92 Chevy K1500 reg cab shortbed and its leaking fuel too. I filled up at the gas station and noticed the smell shortly after I got home. Thoughts? I appreciate your time and expertise.
ThankX I just fixed my gas tank with plumbing flux and solder and blow torch. The metal tank has a say 1/2" metal vent pipe tube that had come loose where it enters the tank. It was leaking gas and you could turn it by your hand. I emptied all the gas out by removing the retaining ring and the fuel sending unit and pump. Then I used a rag with the tank tilted to get the rest of the gas out and also in a plastic trough inside where the pump pickup sits. I did NOT spray water into the tank, I didn't want water in my tank to have to dry out. I inserted the vacuum cleaner in that pump sender opening to suck in fresh air as I used the torch to heat and solder the pipe and tank. I wore brushed the area and cleaned with acetone before soldering. I applied some play dough like plumbers epoxy over the solder area as a back up over kill.
wyattoneable The closest radiator shop around here is like 45 minutes away . When there use to be one in every city. And the price to have a radiator recored has skyrocketed.
Looks fine to me tho I mite have tinned both before the mate up...We do radiator service/repairs where I work and yes the plastic/alloy radiators have taken a toll on that side of the business.
ZIGgassedUP It sucked the solder all the way threw the hole. Since I cleaned everything up real well. There’s very few radiator shops left around here anymore.
We do batteries and mechanical repairs too to cover the rads...The rad guy is finishing up in a week because of the lack of work...I don't think they'll replace him.
ladiesrmyhabit Just don’t put a torch to a mini bike gas tank, Since there not well ventilated. It’s best to use one of those type of soldering irons that you heat up first. Not sure if an electric one will get hot enough.
Sorry I might have missed something. Was the tank full of water and you were using the blow gun to make sure there were no fumes, while soldering or did the tank just have water residue from being washed out and that is why you used the rags to dry it out after you soldered the patch? Thanks for sharing
JJ Smith I just washed the tank out with water to help get rid of the fumes. Then I drained the water out before I soldered it. The rags were just to get the last little bit of water out of it.
iceman22st Most people don’t realize that everything on the gas tank was originally soldered together. Seems like a lot of people are scared to put a torch to a gas tank. The tanks that are not well ventilated. I take like a piece of one inch round bar heat it up red hot. Let it cool down until its not red anymore. Then I just Hold it on the gas tank and solder it that way.
I agree, I tin eveything first. Wipe it down while its still liquid put the patch on and the solder will get pulled in. Looks much cleaner when done. If its on a flat surface ill put a brass screw in and solder it in place.
I have a tank with a plastic baffle, the baffle has come loose, it snaps onto a raised portion inside the tank, but....no easy way to get in the tank, I tried but can't snap it back down, so I thought about drill 3 holes and using nuts and bolts to pull it down and hold it in. Question is, how do I seal those bolts? Thank you Dodge of 88, brilliant idea.
Soldering gun won’t get hot enough. I heated a 3/4 inch piece of round bar up red hot and touched it to a non well ventilated tank before to solder it up.
Hi, thanks for the video, but, at least in construction, mixing copper with steel is a big NO, as it generates corrotion, as an example, you do not mix copper water pipes with old steel water pipes instalations (it is known that doing so will destroy the whole instalation due to corotion) or the grounding copper bar attached to the steel reinforcement on the concrete, if you do so, you have to use special greases in the contact area to prevent oxidation to start. So how is that it works for a gas tank? wont is oxidate faster now in other areas? sorry for my english.
+Felix Picardi It does not cause any kind of problem. I’ve been doing that for over 25 years. And the person that showed me how to do it all those years ago had been doing it for that long also.
Felix Your base assumption is Correct but I believe The reason for that is because the old steel water lines are typically Galvanized..it’s the Galvanizing on the steel pipe that Copper cannot be in contact with.
I had 0ne of the small metal pipes break off while I was removing the fill pipeline..any chance I could fix it somehow? I was thinking a threaded hollow pipe and just use a good sealant and washers? HELP PLEASE.. I can't afford 500$ for a new tank
Rusty Glovebox Thanks. Most of those gas tanks are real expensive to buy. I had one newer Ford truck I bought one for that was plastic with 20 percent off it cost $800
Thanks for the post. You mention that some folks pump fuel tanks full of engine exhaust to force out the fumes. Actually the goal by filling the tank with exhaust fumes is to drive out the oxygen. No oxygen, no explosion. Not sure I like the idea of actually pumping oxygen INTO the tank, but you did get away with it.
Just the other day I was thinking that there are no more radiator shops around because I wanted to get a radiator rodded out or re-cored. I haven't seen a Rad shop in over 20 years. These aluminum and plastic radiators are junk, just throw aways. They rot REALLY easily if you don't keep the coolant changed.
@@1970chevelle396 Nice repair on the tank. That's a good idea using the copper pipe piece. I used a piece of galvanized metal from an old piece of duct before. I think the coppers easier to solder. I used to dump a couple bottles of dry gas (alcohol) in the tank and slosh it around to pick up the water and dump it out. The water mixed with the alcohol so it was easer to get rid of. Any alcohol left would just mix with the gas.
@@vincemajestyk9497 This seems to be why repairs with plastic/epoxy etc don't last now. Ethanol in gas makes it absorb water and it eventually gets under the patch, creates rust = new leak
good men . i put def (urea) in the diesel by mistake. no drain plug on a &_$## mercedes.. i never started the engine. the mercedes tow truck guy did turn the key and played with the gear stick to put it in neutral. never removed the fuel pump fuse . that starts the fuel pump and sends diesel in the system . 18 k to replace every thing . now i am wiser , would drill and drain the diesel .. remove the pump fuse.. send the car to a fuel tank shop asking to solder on drain plug.. clean the tank interior . remove the fuel pump and clean it . that should do it..
me too but the catch is 6 months later i had a small accident ,cracked bumper, broken radar sensor. five months later still not fixed. i feel like ins dont want to go pay again, but i am still paying 2 ways insurance every months.
Brushless drill.... Yes I learned a lesson the hard way, I couldnt figure out what was the source of ignition.... $5000 ooops on my turbocharged Lexus IS300. I wish I read this reply before the repair. My tank was still in the car and I was under it aswell. Im still having nightmares. Take EVERY safety precaution very seriously! I almost lost a $30,000 investment and my life. 1 mistake I will never again.
It has some kind of coating on it . So it’s best to solder it. Not sure what the plating is. It’s kind of like whats on the outside of a power brake booster.
@@1970chevelle396 interesting. I’ve been building homes for 30 yrs and copper touching anything other than copper will corrode and then leak. It might take 10 yrs but it will happen.
Great job Ken ! Thank you ! Please continue to be safe and God bless you my friend!!! Eddy
Ray Eddy Thanks
Thanks for the video!
Nicely done.
sixtyfiveford Thank You
You just saved me a bunch of $$$ Thanks!
+David Ogle Thank You
Nice repair Ken, Thanks for sharing buddy!
Ray Caniglia Thanks
Nice job mates well demonstrated great video
bodgit and leggit garage Thank You. Next I will have to do a video on the type of tanks that are not well ventilated, if I get one to do. Those kind I do when there still full of gas. LOL
1970chevelle396 will look forward to that as well
Good job Sir!👍🏻
Thanks
instead of putting gas back in it to test it and finding it has another leak and having to redo clearing the gas / fumes out of the tank... I duck tape the tank openings and use an air hose and put just a little pressure in the tank and use a spay bottle with dish soap and water to see if it is leaking... Just like you do for testing tire leaks.
kiddiescripterkiller You shouldn’t pressurize a gas tank. A little bit to much pressure you will screw the tank up. I’ve never had one leak that I’ve fixed. But I still make sure there is no leaks.
1970chevelle396 I wasn't talking about tire pressures... Only need a very slight air pressure... Or use a gas line hose and blow into line just to put a slight pressure on the tank.
I do a lot of soldering at work, I would recommend wearing gloves (we use nitrile ones at work) and washing hands thoroughly afterwards, solder can be nasty stuff. Great video!
Thanks. I have lots of gloves. But hardly ever remember to wear them.
I only have three working brain cells. I didn't used to wear gloves. Now I wear them, to keep my few remaining cells working. Linda and I send our best.
TTchannel I think most solder here no longer has lead in it.
We still use 63/37 tin-lead solder. We do very high reliability work, and don't use lead-free because it's more brittle (it also requires higher temperatures to melt, which affects component life). Some people say that's why electronics don't last like they used to, but I'm not an engineer, I just build what they draw up.
Great job by the way
Thanks
I have a 92 Chevy K1500 reg cab shortbed and its leaking fuel too. I filled up at the gas station and noticed the smell shortly after I got home. Thoughts? I appreciate your time and expertise.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks
Great solution ..great results:) thanku 4 diy 411
Thanks
Nice repair
ceedell Thanks
Nice work
Thanks
a copper penny would have bean perfect for the hole size thanks for the video
Thanks. I’ve used penny’s before
ThankX I just fixed my gas tank with plumbing flux and solder and blow torch.
The metal tank has a say 1/2" metal vent pipe tube that had come loose where it enters the tank.
It was leaking gas and you could turn it by your hand.
I emptied all the gas out by removing the retaining ring and the fuel sending unit and pump.
Then I used a rag with the tank tilted to get the rest of the gas out and also in a plastic trough inside where the pump pickup sits.
I did NOT spray water into the tank, I didn't want water in my tank to have to dry out.
I inserted the vacuum cleaner in that pump sender opening to suck in fresh air as I used the torch to heat and solder the pipe and tank.
I wore brushed the area and cleaned with acetone before soldering.
I applied some play dough like plumbers epoxy over the solder area as a back up over kill.
Thanks man!
Thanks
Nice prelude
+Logan Bme Thanks
good job
Stevo Thanks
Well there you go, I learned something. It's too bad radiator shops don't exist much anymore. But that's the way technology has taken us I guess.
wyattoneable The closest radiator shop around here is like 45 minutes away . When there use to be one in every city. And the price to have a radiator recored has skyrocketed.
good fix
cigarcaptain Thanks
Looks fine to me tho I mite have tinned both before the mate up...We do radiator service/repairs where I work and yes the plastic/alloy radiators have taken a toll on that side of the business.
ZIGgassedUP It sucked the solder all the way threw the hole. Since I cleaned everything up real well. There’s very few radiator shops left around here anymore.
We do batteries and mechanical repairs too to cover the rads...The rad guy is finishing up in a week because of the lack of work...I don't think they'll replace him.
ZIGgassedUP Here the very few radiator shops left charge like more than 3 times what it use to cost to have a radiator recored.
Absolutely...I know the price of cores and by the time the assembly is done it's nothing to see the price triple.
ZIGgassedUP A job that once cost like $150 here , now cost $500.
Well done...could I make the same repair on a mini bike gas tank using a soldering iron?
ladiesrmyhabit Just don’t put a torch to a mini bike gas tank, Since there not well ventilated. It’s best to use one of those type of soldering irons that you heat up first. Not sure if an electric one will get hot enough.
Sorry I might have missed something. Was the tank full of water and you were using the blow gun to make sure there were no fumes, while soldering or did the tank just have water residue from being washed out and that is why you used the rags to dry it out after you soldered the patch? Thanks for sharing
JJ Smith I just washed the tank out with water to help get rid of the fumes. Then I drained the water out before I soldered it. The rags were just to get the last little bit of water out of it.
I've fixed tanks the same way, but I tin both the tank around the hole and the patch.
iceman22st Most people don’t realize that everything on the gas tank was originally soldered together. Seems like a lot of people are scared to put a torch to a gas tank. The tanks that are not well ventilated. I take like a piece of one inch round bar heat it up red hot. Let it cool down until its not red anymore. Then I just Hold it on the gas tank and solder it that way.
I agree, I tin eveything first. Wipe it down while its still liquid put the patch on and the solder will get pulled in. Looks much cleaner when done. If its on a flat surface ill put a brass screw in and solder it in place.
I have a tank with a plastic baffle, the baffle has come loose, it snaps onto a raised portion inside the tank, but....no easy way to get in the tank, I tried but can't snap it back down, so I thought about drill 3 holes and using nuts and bolts to pull it down and hold it in. Question is, how do I seal those bolts? Thank you Dodge of 88, brilliant idea.
I’m not sure how you can fix that. Don’t drill holes in the tank. It would probably be ok just to remove the baffle.
Hey buddy can I just use a soldering gun or do I need a torch? Thanks
Soldering gun won’t get hot enough. I heated a 3/4 inch piece of round bar up red hot and touched it to a non well ventilated tank before to solder it up.
Best to apply flux to both sides of the copper patch and for a couple inches around the hole.
Hi, thanks for the video, but, at least in construction, mixing copper with steel is a big NO, as it generates corrotion, as an example, you do not mix copper water pipes with old steel water pipes instalations (it is known that doing so will destroy the whole instalation due to corotion) or the grounding copper bar attached to the steel reinforcement on the concrete, if you do so, you have to use special greases in the contact area to prevent oxidation to start. So how is that it works for a gas tank? wont is oxidate faster now in other areas? sorry for my english.
+Felix Picardi It does not cause any kind of problem. I’ve been doing that for over 25 years. And the person that showed me how to do it all those years ago had been doing it for that long also.
@@1970chevelle396 Thanks for the response and the video.
Felix
Your base assumption is Correct but I believe
The reason for that is because the old steel water lines are typically Galvanized..it’s the Galvanizing on the steel pipe that Copper cannot be in contact with.
Its called electrolosis
Would this work for a pinhole leak? Btw great video
+Kevin's Kustom Bkk You can do this for any size leak.
I had 0ne of the small metal pipes break off while I was removing the fill pipeline..any chance I could fix it somehow? I was thinking a threaded hollow pipe and just use a good sealant and washers? HELP PLEASE.. I can't afford 500$ for a new tank
+jethrowomber You need to solder it back on.
Nice job Ken, you saved him at minimum 250 bucks for another tank.
Rusty Glovebox Thanks. Most of those gas tanks are real expensive to buy. I had one newer Ford truck I bought one for that was plastic with 20 percent off it cost $800
I know it's been nearly 2 years.....how's it holding up? Another question is that they are dissimilar metals....is that an issue?
It wont ever leak again after it’s been repaired that way. No there is no issues.
@@1970chevelle396 thanks for the update.
If a little solder is good, a lot of solder is better..Stop its to hot... Hope it works.
+D Grass Works perfectly. Been doing this for a very long time. It would be kind of stupid for me to not put hardly any solder on it and have it leak.
What gas are you using? Will propane or Map gas work?
Benjamin Pratt I’m using Map gas. Propane will also work, it will just take longer to get it hot enough.
Thanks for the post. You mention that some folks pump fuel tanks full of engine exhaust to force out the fumes. Actually the goal by filling the tank with exhaust fumes is to drive out the oxygen. No oxygen, no explosion. Not sure I like the idea of actually pumping oxygen INTO the tank, but you did get away with it.
You can do it either way. The reason for blowing air threw the tank , makes it so no fumes can build up.
Why not drive a short bolt through the hole then solder around it?
+billsixx It would work, but it wouldn’t be as good. You would be better off with copper. Or even a piece of sheet metal.
If you are near Chattanooga chatt town radiator still exists.
Andrew Kohls There’s a radiator shop 1 hour away from where I live. No reason to take it to them to do something I can do myself.
Just the other day I was thinking that there are no more radiator shops around because I wanted to get a radiator rodded out or re-cored. I haven't seen a Rad shop in over 20 years. These aluminum and plastic radiators are junk, just throw aways. They rot REALLY easily if you don't keep the coolant changed.
There are very few radiator shops left. And there crazy expensive now.
@@1970chevelle396 Nice repair on the tank. That's a good idea using the copper pipe piece. I used a piece of galvanized metal from an old piece of duct before. I think the coppers easier to solder. I used to dump a couple bottles of dry gas (alcohol) in the tank and slosh it around to pick up the water and dump it out. The water mixed with the alcohol so it was easer to get rid of. Any alcohol left would just mix with the gas.
@@vincemajestyk9497 This seems to be why repairs with plastic/epoxy etc don't last now. Ethanol in gas makes it absorb water and it eventually gets under the patch, creates rust = new leak
who knew jeff daniels could fix a gas tank
I’m definitely not Jeff Daniels. He’s 20 years older than me.
@@1970chevelle396 you sound suspiciously like jeff daniels, you sure youre not jeff daniels? for all you know you could be jeff daniels. just sayin
What about horseshoe
Did he say easy?
Yes it’s easy to fix a gas tank.
good men . i put def (urea) in the diesel by mistake. no drain plug on a &_$## mercedes.. i never started the engine. the mercedes tow truck guy did turn the key and played with the gear stick to put it in neutral. never removed the fuel pump fuse . that starts the fuel pump and sends diesel in the system . 18 k to replace every thing .
now i am wiser , would drill and drain the diesel .. remove the pump fuse.. send the car to a fuel tank shop asking to solder on drain plug.. clean the tank interior . remove the fuel pump and clean it . that should do it..
I had one customer that did that to a brand new Chevy truck. Cost $17K to fix it. His insurance paid for it.
me too but the catch is
6 months later i had a small accident ,cracked bumper, broken radar sensor. five months later still not fixed. i feel like ins dont want to go pay again, but i am still paying 2 ways insurance every months.
18k? Around here they charge 500 for wrong fuelling LOL
drilling a hole seems really sketchy
nachosNapples They must have used a brushless drill. It would have caught on fire for sure with a regular drill.
Brushless drill.... Yes I learned a lesson the hard way, I couldnt figure out what was the source of ignition.... $5000 ooops on my turbocharged Lexus IS300. I wish I read this reply before the repair. My tank was still in the car and I was under it aswell. Im still having nightmares. Take EVERY safety precaution very seriously! I almost lost a $30,000 investment and my life. 1 mistake I will never again.
right i'm sayin
damn bro you good?
I woulda just tig welded it
It has some kind of coating on it . So it’s best to solder it. Not sure what the plating is. It’s kind of like whats on the outside of a power brake booster.
Do not, I repeat do not hook a vacuum to the gas tank it very well could blow up.
I didn’t hook a vacuum up to a gas tank.
Couldn’t you just mig weld up the hole.
No. It gets it to hot and burns the coating off of the inside of the tank.
Thats a metal tank
+EA Jam Yes that’s a metal tank.
+EA Jam Yes that’s a metal tank.
Dissimilar metals my man. Will end up corroding within a couple of years.
It will not corrode at all. I’ve been doing this for over 30 years.
@@1970chevelle396 interesting. I’ve been building homes for 30 yrs and copper touching anything other than copper will corrode and then leak. It might take 10 yrs but it will happen.
It would've been nice to show everything you did instead of talking threw the whole video.
Ruth Wilson I did show everything I did except for cleaning the metal.
@Ruth you do a video then dipshit
There is a difference between a leaky gas tank and a large hole. Click bait.
Not clickbait. Same procedure for a leaking tank.