Man, I have been watching so many UA-cam videos on this subject that my eyes were about to burst. I kind of stumbled on your idea yesterday, only because I knew there had to be a better way. Your way is perfection, many thanks!
I've been shooting real estate for a little over three years. I was on a team where that's all that we have done, so I was handed a lot of homes. This is by far the way that I prefer to do things now. I was good at flambient but always thought it was unneeded. I'm doing things solo for several agents in my area and zip through work like it's nothing using this technique. Thanks John
Post editing with the 50/50 flambient technique is insanely fast one you get down a good workflow. I can complete a full edit in 30 minutes. Flambient is the way to go for sure if you want to grow your business, stand out from the others, charge more for your work and venture into design and architectural spaces.
Auto masking is a god-send! Omg! I am done doing flambiant now 😂. I only wanted to do it because of the perfect window pull result and the easy editing. But your techniques are far more superb! Thank you!
Hey John, awesome video on editing from start to finish. Media Manager on a high producing RE Team and your techniques are top of the line. Thanks a million!
@@JFPhotos1thanks. I did give that a try, but some of the lines were too thin and on an angle, so it created jagged/stepped lines. I really don’t want to go that flash route. Although the darken method is the easiest and most and accurate. I appreciate the support 👍🏻
Using HDR, how do you deal with muntins, vertical or horizontal blinds, or large plants in front of the window? I think flambient would be a better (and faster) solution than painting each object in Lightroom. Also, how do you handle moving tree branches in an exterior HDR shot? Perhaps a better way would be to take a single shot, create two virtual copies, increase one of them by a stop and decrease the other by the same amount and THEN create the HDR image. The main disadvantage to HDR in my opinion is colour rendition, especially when dealing with mixed colour temperature lighting.
Get good with zooming in and moving the image around while you have the brush open. Space bar, ctrl + mouse wheel spin, and A for automask. HDR outside with wind, fast shutter speed and minimize ghosting option in the merge HDR settings help. I often just shoot single exposures outside. HDR I really just want for windows.
Thanks John, will save me from going to Photoshop that I'm still learning. For your HDR, do you take 3 or 5 photos and are they the +2 0 -2 ? Thanks again
Glad to help. Almost always 3 shot bracket, typically -2,0,+2. I make sure my darkest exposure has the detail I want in the window, and the brightest exposure brings light to the darkest shadows. I will blow out the windows just slightly if there's a lot of dynamic range to cover and I don't want to take more than 3 photos to cover it. You can recover the detail in the bright areas with RAW files but again, only slightly overexpose.
I did purchase your course, I would love to send you an example of what I typically deal with to see how you accomplish even exposure in the HDR process, I find that increasing explosure I am blowing the highlights to much and not sure how to evenly blend....
Hi Chris, yes, send me an example to john@rephoto101.com and I'll take a look. Send me the raw files for one of your brackets where you are having this issue. Thanks
When i use hdr in hard lighting scenerios, it creates weird dark spots in the photo. For example, the light reflected on the floor from a window, or light on a wall from a lamp. Becomes a dark shadow spot. Any tips on this?
Hello John, I bought your presets pack about 8 months ago, its great! Question, I'm having issues with getting a ghosting look around the windows from the natural light coming in and don't know how to prevent it. Am I shooting too early in the day or doing something else wrong? I do bracket the shots (5 photos) and create an HDR. Please help
This is a great tutorial. I liked that you spoke about the editing tweaks you were doing and showing the panel clearly as you changed the values. I have watched probably 50 UA-cam videos in the past couple weeks about windows pulls using flash and Darken mode, luminosity masks, and painting in a darker exposure shot. I haven't used Lightroom yet (using Aurora HDR and Luminar) but the click-hold function to create the straight lines for the brush may be enough of a reason to spring for the $10/month subscription fee. I like Aurora and Luminar well enough (one-time subscription together of $79 last year) but that click-hold brush function is not available. You mentioned the time savings over using a flash shot for the window. My concern is encountering windows with blinds. Do you brush out the blinds? That seems painful. I'd think a flash shot and Darken mode would save time, even is you would need to pull the two photos into Photoshop. The reason I was looking around for options was because I had done a job shooting a bed and breakfast inn for 360 tours of the rooms. No flash possible with a 360 camera. I captured 5 manual bracketed exposures, then used the darker ones to brush in the windows with an image layer. With a -2.0 exposure compensation for the lowest setting photos, most of the 360 photos came out okay, though I did encounter challenges with some of the windows (all had horizontal blinds). That's where the Lightroom click-hold feature would have been VERY helpful. I used a new pen tablet to erase the edges. I have been shooting jobs with HDR, haven't bought a flash yet, so I'm weighing the various options. I have watched (and Subscribed) to your videos and you present a straightforward approach that has me coming back repeatedly to watch your videos. Thank you!
Thank you so much for the kind words, I appreciate it. I used to use a pen and tablet and thought that was pretty good but I couldn't imagine going back to that now. The adjustment brush to darken the windows has it's weaknesses for sure, like in situations with blinds. Personally, I do whatever I can at the house to preempt any tedious work in Lightroom. I'll pull open the blinds or close them all the way. If there are objects in front of the windows that will be a problem, I'll just move them. And if the view is just of a street, a fence, the neighbor's house, or something else that doesn't add to the photo, then I'll just close the blinds/curtains anyway. If you have a situation where the blinds are open but not pulled to the side, typically that means the view is OK but not good enough to really show it off. You could do a mask over the whole window and drop the exposure just slightly, pull the highlights all the way down in the basic panel, and set your exposure a little bit lower than normal. You might not get a great view but you should be able to avoid them being completely blown out. But again, I would just open the blinds or close them, but maybe there is some other obstruction that you can't change, I find these to be rare cases though and not something that will prevent me from making the client happy.
I must be missing a step because I pressed K and keywords came up so I used B and brush came up which looked right but Im not sure if I was suppose to layer photos because its not working for me. Also my Lightroom version is completely different, so this wasn't exactly easy to follow. any recommendations on what I am missing?! sorry I am a beginner!
What version of Lightroom are you using? The version in this video is Lightroom Classic. It sounds like you might even be using Photoshop. Adobe's naming can be confusing. This article can explain it better than I can - help.theluxelens.com/hc/en-us/articles/360042014733-What-is-the-difference-between-Lightroom-Classic-Lightroom-CC-Lightroom-mobile-app-and-Photoshop-ACR- Let me know and I'll try and help, but I don't think you will have the capability to darken windows easily unless you are using Classic.
Man, I have been watching so many UA-cam videos on this subject that my eyes were about to burst. I kind of stumbled on your idea yesterday, only because I knew there had to be a better way. Your way is perfection, many thanks!
Glad you like it, thank you for the comment, I appreciate it.
I’ve been using the Pen tool for 7 YEARS doing real estate. This is a game changer! Thanks so much for this.
So glad it helped. Took me years to find this as well.
Outstanding video!! Nice work!
Glad you liked it, thank you.
Click and then shift + click with eraser is possibly the most important hack I've ever learned for easy window pulls. Appreciate it bro!
Hi Johin, Thank you so much for this tip, ive been using HDR shots for ages but never found a way to bring the windows back. Amazing!!!
Glad it helped, thank you for saying so.
I've been shooting real estate for a little over three years. I was on a team where that's all that we have done, so I was handed a lot of homes. This is by far the way that I prefer to do things now. I was good at flambient but always thought it was unneeded. I'm doing things solo for several agents in my area and zip through work like it's nothing using this technique. Thanks John
Good to hear, I'm sure your clients like the fast turnaround time. Many photographers don't know how important that is to Realtors.
Post editing with the 50/50 flambient technique is insanely fast one you get down a good workflow. I can complete a full edit in 30 minutes. Flambient is the way to go for sure if you want to grow your business, stand out from the others, charge more for your work and venture into design and architectural spaces.
Auto masking is a god-send! Omg! I am done doing flambiant now 😂. I only wanted to do it because of the perfect window pull result and the easy editing. But your techniques are far more superb! Thank you!
I'm glad it's working out for you. Thank you
Subbed! Gets straight to the point and explains in a simple and efficient way, thank you!
Thank you very much, glad you appreciate the video.
Hey John, awesome video on editing from start to finish. Media Manager on a high producing RE Team and your techniques are top of the line. Thanks a million!
Appreciate the nice words. Glad you liked it, thank you.
Great demo of a fantastic tool! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Glad you liked it, thank you so much.
Minute 5:02 it’s a game changer. Thanks!
Thanks
so amazing
Great video, thanks for sharing!!
Question, what's your suggestion on the windows when there are open blinds involved?
Nice job and explanation
Thanks
Thanks for this, great pace and crystal clear instructions. Question, did you just take one single shot, underexposed? No AEB? Cheers!
Thanks. AEB merged in Lightroom.
cheers@@JFPhotos1 I like this method a lot, until today - blinds...total nightmare. Need a better way now, you know of one?
@@wolfiemedia not sure if I mentioned it in this video but zooming in close and using auto masking helps.
@@JFPhotos1thanks. I did give that a try, but some of the lines were too thin and on an angle, so it created jagged/stepped lines. I really don’t want to go that flash route. Although the darken method is the easiest and most and accurate. I appreciate the support 👍🏻
Dude…you’re fucking sick. Best tutorial I’ve ever seen on any subject
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Using HDR, how do you deal with muntins, vertical or horizontal blinds, or large plants in front of the window? I think flambient would be a better (and faster) solution than painting each object in Lightroom.
Also, how do you handle moving tree branches in an exterior HDR shot? Perhaps a better way would be to take a single shot, create two virtual copies, increase one of them by a stop and decrease the other by the same amount and THEN create the HDR image.
The main disadvantage to HDR in my opinion is colour rendition, especially when dealing with mixed colour temperature lighting.
Get good with zooming in and moving the image around while you have the brush open. Space bar, ctrl + mouse wheel spin, and A for automask. HDR outside with wind, fast shutter speed and minimize ghosting option in the merge HDR settings help. I often just shoot single exposures outside. HDR I really just want for windows.
Muito bom! Obrigada pelas partilhas!
Very Nice! Are you merging your 3 images with lightroom's HDR merging or how are you doing this?
Thanks. Yes, LR HDR.
what does the auto mask do when you use the brush tho?
Thanks John, will save me from going to Photoshop that I'm still learning. For your HDR, do you take 3 or 5 photos and are they the +2 0 -2 ?
Thanks again
Glad to help. Almost always 3 shot bracket, typically -2,0,+2. I make sure my darkest exposure has the detail I want in the window, and the brightest exposure brings light to the darkest shadows. I will blow out the windows just slightly if there's a lot of dynamic range to cover and I don't want to take more than 3 photos to cover it. You can recover the detail in the bright areas with RAW files but again, only slightly overexpose.
@@JFPhotos1 Thanks Again John !
I did purchase your course, I would love to send you an example of what I typically deal with to see how you accomplish even exposure in the HDR process, I find that increasing explosure I am blowing the highlights to much and not sure how to evenly blend....
Hi Chris, yes, send me an example to john@rephoto101.com and I'll take a look. Send me the raw files for one of your brackets where you are having this issue. Thanks
When i use hdr in hard lighting scenerios, it creates weird dark spots in the photo. For example, the light reflected on the floor from a window, or light on a wall from a lamp. Becomes a dark shadow spot. Any tips on this?
I'll check it out if you post an example
Hello John, I bought your presets pack about 8 months ago, its great! Question, I'm having issues with getting a ghosting look around the windows from the natural light coming in and don't know how to prevent it. Am I shooting too early in the day or doing something else wrong? I do bracket the shots (5 photos) and create an HDR. Please help
Thanks, I'm glad you like them. Send me an email of a picture that has this issue if you can and I'll check it out - john@rephoto101.com
Sir, please! . How does the brush automatically erase between two points?
Click somewhere with the brush, then move the mouse somewhere and hold shift while clicking again.
@@JFPhotos1 Thank you so much！
This is a great tutorial. I liked that you spoke about the editing tweaks you were doing and showing the panel clearly as you changed the values.
I have watched probably 50 UA-cam videos in the past couple weeks about windows pulls using flash and Darken mode, luminosity masks, and painting in a darker exposure shot. I haven't used Lightroom yet (using Aurora HDR and Luminar) but the click-hold function to create the straight lines for the brush may be enough of a reason to spring for the $10/month subscription fee. I like Aurora and Luminar well enough (one-time subscription together of $79 last year) but that click-hold brush function is not available.
You mentioned the time savings over using a flash shot for the window. My concern is encountering windows with blinds. Do you brush out the blinds? That seems painful. I'd think a flash shot and Darken mode would save time, even is you would need to pull the two photos into Photoshop.
The reason I was looking around for options was because I had done a job shooting a bed and breakfast inn for 360 tours of the rooms. No flash possible with a 360 camera. I captured 5 manual bracketed exposures, then used the darker ones to brush in the windows with an image layer. With a -2.0 exposure compensation for the lowest setting photos, most of the 360 photos came out okay, though I did encounter challenges with some of the windows (all had horizontal blinds). That's where the Lightroom click-hold feature would have been VERY helpful. I used a new pen tablet to erase the edges.
I have been shooting jobs with HDR, haven't bought a flash yet, so I'm weighing the various options. I have watched (and Subscribed) to your videos and you present a straightforward approach that has me coming back repeatedly to watch your videos. Thank you!
Thank you so much for the kind words, I appreciate it. I used to use a pen and tablet and thought that was pretty good but I couldn't imagine going back to that now. The adjustment brush to darken the windows has it's weaknesses for sure, like in situations with blinds. Personally, I do whatever I can at the house to preempt any tedious work in Lightroom. I'll pull open the blinds or close them all the way. If there are objects in front of the windows that will be a problem, I'll just move them. And if the view is just of a street, a fence, the neighbor's house, or something else that doesn't add to the photo, then I'll just close the blinds/curtains anyway.
If you have a situation where the blinds are open but not pulled to the side, typically that means the view is OK but not good enough to really show it off. You could do a mask over the whole window and drop the exposure just slightly, pull the highlights all the way down in the basic panel, and set your exposure a little bit lower than normal. You might not get a great view but you should be able to avoid them being completely blown out. But again, I would just open the blinds or close them, but maybe there is some other obstruction that you can't change, I find these to be rare cases though and not something that will prevent me from making the client happy.
I must be missing a step because I pressed K and keywords came up so I used B and brush came up which looked right but Im not sure if I was suppose to layer photos because its not working for me. Also my Lightroom version is completely different, so this wasn't exactly easy to follow. any recommendations on what I am missing?! sorry I am a beginner!
What version of Lightroom are you using? The version in this video is Lightroom Classic. It sounds like you might even be using Photoshop. Adobe's naming can be confusing. This article can explain it better than I can - help.theluxelens.com/hc/en-us/articles/360042014733-What-is-the-difference-between-Lightroom-Classic-Lightroom-CC-Lightroom-mobile-app-and-Photoshop-ACR-
Let me know and I'll try and help, but I don't think you will have the capability to darken windows easily unless you are using Classic.
what does dehaze do?
Try out the dehaze and contrast sliders and see how they compare. Push them high on different scenes to get an idea of how they affect the image.
Im so lost is this photoshop or lightroom
Lightroom. The full name is Photoshop Lightroom but it's not the Photoshop that people refer to when they say "Photoshop"