INSTANT Full Interior Photography Edit With This Lightroom Preset!
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- Start your architecture and real estate interior edits in Lightroom Classic with this power preset. This is the key to editing your interior photos quickly and efficiently. Follow along, set up your own preset, and start using it today to get your work looking great and save yourself huge amounts of time!
This approach saves a lot of time over more refined approaches but gets your photos looking pretty good with minimal fuss.
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A full architectural photography editing tutorial: • How To Edit Architectu...
Exposure Blending Tutorial for higher quality edits: • The KEY to Successful ...
Exposure Blending Panel for Photoshop: bit.ly/3dpGeub
If you want to learn more about licensing your photos to earn more money this is a really good resource bit.ly/How2Lic... (not mine, but very thorough and practical).
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Almost all of my business is run-of-the-mill Real Estate photos. I have a similar preset I use but as always you opened my eyes to take a second look at my preset and tweek it to make it better! My workflow is ultra fast, and while the final product is not at the level of your architectural shoots, it comes close and at my price point it is more than adequate for Real Estate. Everything I do is in a batch to streamline my photo processing. First I batch process my RAW images, using a preset similar to yours and export as JPEG's. From there I batch process the JPEGS in Aurora and export as TIFFs. From there I import the TIFFs back into Lightroom where I have other presets to "fine tune" the images. Like you, I take care of the geometry on a photo-by-photo basis. I used to use the vertical correction in my preset, but found that is better to correct each photos geometry as I go. Most times clicking "Verticle" gets me where I want to be, and if that does not work I drop back and use "Guided". Using this method I can normally process a job (35-40 images) in about 15-20 minutes (plus a few minutes to photoshop tripods out of mirrors, outline the property on drone shots, etc). If the property has decent lighting, I get very good results. If the lighting is challenging, I still get very good results, but I am always striving to get the tough ones to come out to as close as I can to optimal and your tips have helped alot towards that goal!
What do you gain by going from raw -> jpeg -> tiff?
You did not disappoint!!! If this preset gets me close to the quality required for general real estate listing photos, you just saved me hours and helped me up my game!! Thank you!!! I opened up the editing video at the end of this one to see how much of those ideas I can quickly use to get a better result without spending hours.
This is the thing with most photography. Getting the best results in the shortest possible time.
This is very good! Been doing real estate for a few years. Just did a job for a architect and I’m really wanting to do the best job I can. Needless to say I’m wearing it heavy! 😅
Thanks again Anthony! I can always count on you for a "tidbit" to add to my workflow to improve the quality of my photos or make my workflow more efficient!
Apologies. Only just seen this. I really appreciate it. Currently the daily youtube revenue on this channel is about $3 so it really isn't financially viable to keep going with it. Your generosity is greatly appreciated!
@@archiphotoI appreciate your efforts. It's unfortunate that you don't get more appreciation in the way of a "tip". I could understand if this was a cooking channel or something like that, but I would think that most people that watch your videos use what they learn here to be more efficient or profitable in their photography business. I mean even if its something that saves just 5 minutes a day in shooting/editing that adds up to 20 hours a year to spend with family and friends or do things you enjoy outside of photography. Hopefully you continue to produce content here. I realize it is a lot of work to make these and I am sure there are other things you could be doing beside giving free advice...
@InMotionRealEstatePhotography Thanks so much. Yes, you're absolutely right. It takes a lot to put these together and the YT ad revenue is peanuts. A few bucks a day. I get that it's my choice to create and share the content but it's nice to have someone appreciate what's gone into it. I wish more viewers were as generous then I could justify making more. You may have noticed unfortunately my uploads have dried up of late.
Anyway, cheers for the support! It means a lot 😀👍
Thank You for this, just applied it to a few random files from previous shoots and it's brilliant, what a time saver. Thanks again.
Glad to hear it's working well on your files too. 😀
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!! This is going to save me and so many other real estate photographers LOADS of time! 🙏🙌
Thank you for this! Been using this for some time now and have loved it! Any way you have something similar for portraits?
I have created similar 'starter' presets for my portrait work but if I post a vid on it (which I haven't yet) it'll be over on my other channel 😀
@@AnthonyTurnham I guess I'll have to go check out your other channel. Didn't know another one existed. Thank
@@AnthonyTurnham what is your other channel? Not finding a different channel
An excellent video with some useful tips in it thanks!
Great job with the videos and techniques displayed has me rethinking a lot of what we do. Thank you.
Thanks. Glad it 's been helpful!
Really learning to much from your videos Anthony .. thank you! I've just purchased and installed Lumenzia plugin and am working to go through this tutorial step by step and I'm stuck already on Camera Flat profile! LOL! Did you create that or get it from Nikon?
Hi Lisa, it's a nikon profile but it self populates as long as you have LR and Adobe camera raw installed. If you don't have access to this exact one or your manufacturer's equivalent, just use the flattest profile there.
Thank you so much. Great educational content. Bless you ❤
Thank you so much! I tried this today on several recent real estate shoots and it's a game-changer.
I normally shoot flambient but can see that this won't always be necessary.
You are amazingly generous to share your skills.
Thanks so much for all your videos and you’ve helped me a lot and inspired me to want to get into architectural and real estate photography. Will you show a preset for exterior photography? Keep rocking it 🔥
I'm sure I could do that... watch this space. :)
excellent explanation, it is very helpful for my workflow. You have explained it very simply and it is really very efficient.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome.
The lasso tool with alot of feathering of the selection is also a very indispensable tool when using lumenzia.
Thanks!
WOWOWOW! SO GOOOD! THX
Anthony .. I’m moving into interior design photography and hopefully architectural .. I’m trying to decide which is a better choice .. luminar neo or Nik collection?
Your videos have been extremely helpful! Do you set your white balance manually (kelvin or gray/white card) or use auto for initial files? Just learning real estate photography. Thank you!
I'm just using auto most of the time and adjusting in post where I need to. Nowadays the cameras are way better at reading a scene and giving an accurate (or at least very close) white balance.
@@archiphoto Thank you!! Appreciate the response.
So I’ve purchased Lumenzia and am learning how to use it and applying your concepts to my work .. do you ever shoot a property with windows that have many panes of glass? I’m trying to figure out how to tweak the luminosity masks so that the window panes do not get muddied up as you like to say 😎 .. and advise on how to mask windows with many panes of glass?
Another very helpful video. Such a massive time saver. One thing that I can't figure out, which will impact time, is that I can not preview the preset in the library module. Any suggestions why. Thanks again :)
I'd say because a preset is an edit, and you can't edit in library mode, only develop mode?
Amazing video!!!
Hi,
Thanks for all the great videos.
Are you able to tell me where I can find the checkbox FLAT profile in the Dutch version of LRC?
You may not have a profile titled "flat" provided to Adobe by your camera manufacturer. If not just find the camera matching profile that gives the lowest contrast as your starting point.
Awesome Brother!
Thank you so much , that helps alot starting my next jobs :D i lost so much time in the first 3 jobs i cant believe how long it takes :D Big thank you
Thanks Anthony. At what stage to you convert your NEF to a DNG?
TBH there's no real hard and fast rule for that. But earlier is better from a "safety" point of view. If your catalogue corrupts any changes you've made to a dng will still be with the file, not so with a native raw format, unless of course you're remembering to create an xmp sidecar, but if you're going to the effort of that then you may as well just convert to dng.
Pretty new to this, I appreciate your videos (subbed!) Question...if you take 3 AEB (or 5/7) - are you selecting the best exposed one, then applying this preset? If anything else, it won't work - for the over or under exposed ones I mean. I might be missing the point of this, and it's just a video to show how to make a preset? But if you have 3 AEB and the preset works on only one, why take 3? 5 or 7? and how does this help workflow if you dispose of the other 2, 4 or 6 images?
Yeah good question! So absolutely take the 3 / 5/ 7 bracketed shots. These will serve as your foundations for the finished image the client gets IF you're sending through high quality retouched files at the end. This preset is to be applied to the best universal exposure (often 0ev or +1 ev) this gets you a quick result to send though for your client to proof. IE they approve or decline the shot before you spend too much time on your finished fully finished version. Hope that helps :)
it sure does help @@AnthonyTurnham cheers for the reply, have an awesome day/night :)
Hi, Super video. Ive learned a lot! Thank you. My only question for you is why don't you combine the images to 1 HDR picture? Greets!
If it's just for the initial proofing (which is primarily the purpose of this quick preset) then I don't trouble myself with merging the brackets at this point as it's only certain photos the client will be getting as the end product. I'll often use a base exposure with a shadows and a highlight version combined in Photoshop with Lumenzia (bit.ly/3dpGeub) to create a more refined finished shot. So in this workflow, it's not necessary to merge to HDR in LR.
@@archiphoto I'd also be interested in how this preset would work with HDR to produce a finished (almost) product. Would one of these two methods work: 1. add the preset when importing all sets into lightroom and then stak/merge, or 2) Bring them into LR without the preset, then stack/merge and apply the preset to the finished merged photo.
Have you done any tone mapping for interior rendering? I am an 3d artist in every cases making a realistic rendering we need to work with post processing? Can you make any video of it?
Great tutorial and thanks for sharing! Are you planning to release this as a downloadable preset? Perhaps a bundle including exterior presets for bracketed shots ;)
I hadn't really planned on it. But you never know.
Can you release this as a downloadable preset
Hi Anthony, I have purchased the app but still don’t know how to highlight photos. Is there any video where I can learn more about highlights?
I'm back with a question about workflow. I am inquiring as a real estate photographer with an interest in improving my photo quality up from Aurora HDR and global slider adjustments.
In the past 24 hours I have watched several of your Lightroom editing tutorials. In a couple videos you demoed Lightroom Merge to HDR and commented on your preference for using Aurora HDR instead (although what you were working with in the Lightroom-merged pics looked pretty good!). I am thinking the next step up in quality for me would be using local masking to improve the overall dynamic range on an HDR image.
But, how to get there from the RAW brackets?... Since I have Aurora HDR, would you recommend running the RAW brackets through Aurora to generate 16-bit TIFF files, them import into Lightroom and apply the preset you are sharing in this video? Would you suggest adding any refinements in the Aurora process, like adding the "Architecture > Realistic Interiors", Sharpen, Auto Alignment - or make those adjustments in Lightroom?
Can you compare using Aurora to Lightroom's Merge to HDR? Is there more data in the photo to work with in either process? Which app would contribute to a better workflow?
You made some amazing edits in a couple of the videos with Smart Objects in Photoshop and using the Lumenzia luminosity panel. That process looks enticing for window pulls but it looks like a couple steps further down the learning path for me, something to work through step-by-step in a bit. At this point, I think I can make some major improvement with your preset here and some local masking adjustments.
Thank you for your continued contribution to all the photographers who, like me, are seeking to improve the quality of our product with an efficient process!
I did some of my own testing on this comparison. I put three sets of 3-shot brackets through both Lightroom and Aurora HDR with no import settings in either app. The result in Aurora looked more saturated and darker. The Lightroom version of the merged photos looked better in terms of contrast. I just did a property shoot yesterday and used the Lightroom Merge to HDR, then applied my "Anthony T Preset". Pics looked good! A little bit of radial masking to brighten the shadows and we are miles ahead of starting from scratch on each photo. Thank you again for sharing the preset!
Hi .. Where did he share the Anthony T Preset? @@dataventurer9998
Back a year later with an update on my quest. I did an extensive comparison with several photo bracket sets and ran them through the Lightroom HDR merge, Aurora HDR 2018, and LR Enfuse. The Enfuse sets seemed to me to have the best overall blending of the dynamic range. For instance, the folding shade on the window showed much better definition of the light gradation on the shade surface. Aurora (which I have been using for a couple years), appeared to produce a result that had more heavy contrast, where the darks were darker. More important in my decision about further use of Aurora, the blended photos seemed to require much more barrel correction that LR Enfuse (I hardly need to do any barrel correction now). Enfuse was definitely worth the $5 shareware donation!
Hi Anthony, from Canada!! you have suh great content. Since I'm a real estate photographer, it's been really helpful. I'm following the real estate group KOLLOSCHE from Australia and I loooooove their pictures. They have a little something I can't get my hands on. Would you be interested to take a look and maybe give me (us) some tricks about their way of shooting and post treatment? Hope to here from you :) Thanks again!!
Hi! Thanks for the message. I've just been watching Canada's women's football team in the World Cup :) I took a look at the group and the photos. Yes, there's some nice work for real estate shots. At a glance a lot of the "look" comes down to keeping the interior whites pure, bright, and devoid of colour cast (this can be achieved with flash or done in post - both methods can be successful when done right) and also dropping the exposure of the exterior, almost to the point that the inside looks brighter than what's outside. While this gives a nice view of what's outside personally I'm not a fan of that. Unless it's evening / night the exterior is brighter and so it looks too artificial when a photo portrays it the other way around.
If I get a chance I'll make a video. I'm just swamped with other work commitments right now.
Thank you so mich for your response! I’m not a fan of the unatural but if I could get a glince of that and adjust that to my taste I think I could improve my work :) your tricks are fantastics, Ive try few of them and really helps, mostly on my twilight pics! Thanks again 🤩🤩
Hi, can you share a link to this specific preset? I am using Lightroom TY!
Is the video showing how to make the preset not enough? Feel free to copy the settings I've shared and just save it as your own preset.
Do you have a link with this preset?
Do you shoot the majority of your architecture jobs with 5 brackets 1 EV apart? Do you ever use flash?
Yes, and yes.
Hi Anthony, do you always trust the camera meter for that middle exposure or do you adjust it manually sometimes?
Hi. I'll adjust manually quite often. But sometimes I get lazy if I'm shooting a 7 bracket knowing that my base shot will be there in the set regardless - But I don't recommend this approach!
Anyone got the link to the preset? Thanks
Hi 👋 I didn't create it as a download, the intention was that you follow along and save your own.
Thank you for the video. I get frustrated watching LR and Photoshop videos I learn a lot. At the same time I get frustrated when you show something and it different from my LR. EX: Profile Yours show Adobe Color, mine show color. You right click on color I and get color, monochrome, vintage with examples as Artistic, Modern, Vintage. LR is up to date.
Hello, i have a question please? you dont' merge the 5 brackets pphotos on lightroom?
So after your client has chosen the pics they want do you select all of those and hit reset to start your interior work flow in LR?
No I don't reset. I tweak as necesarry or apply more refined presets to work on the images.
How would flash be introduced into this workflow?
I try to minimize my use of flash, but where I use it I usually have a separate preset tweaked for flash and often combine the two photos as layers in photoshop.
How can you get consistency if all of the photos are used for a real estate developer website?
Can you elaborate on your question please. Using this technique is great for a consistent look so I'm not sure I fully understand what you're asking. Cheers
Hello Anthony. I seem to miss the Color profile: Flat.
I only got Clear, Deep, Landscape, Light, Neutral, Portrait, Standard, Vivid and Monochrome.
I shoot on a Sony A7iii and i shoot .ARW files (raw)
Am i doing something wrong?
All good. Each manufacturer supplies adobe with access to their own set of profiles. The neutral and flat are part of the Nikon profiles. Sony probably has a very similar one but calls it by a different name.
did you use flash for these photos?
No sir. No flash in any.
Why not merge the separate HDR images after importing? Isn't that the point of HDR?
For my initial proofing process for the client speed is key. Merging all grouped brackets at the start of the process does two things that I don't want. 1) Takes processing time 2) creates an additional file that I may not ultimately need if the client doesn't want to license that image. By reserving the final full tonal range file for the final delivery it also adds perceived value to the finished shot and helps to justify a per image fee in the client's mind.
@@archiphoto Okay, thank you. And if you apply the final edit for the final, do you first use the preset on all photos separately and than mergde de HDR? or do you merge the HDR first and then use the preset? Or is the preset no longer your starting point and do you start with a completely new edit?
I don't think my camera has enough dynamic range to make this work. I have really ugly clipped highlights in my windows 99 percent of the time when I do this
I wish this video taught how to change a grey sky for a blue one
Are you wantiing a full sky swap or just to colour the existing grey sky?
@@AnthonyTurnham full sky... Vancouver is very cloudy and rainy. always I need to swap.
Do you not combine the brackets?
I work with brackets for my final deliverable image for the client. This is a quick way to get most photos looking pretty good and back to your client for proofing. Check some of my other videos for my full workflow in LR and PS.
@@archiphoto thanks for the response will check them out
Sorry to ask a stupid question. But where is the preset? I don't see it!
It's a video showing you how (and probably more importantly why) to set the preset up... follow along. Tweak if necessary. Save the preset as your own.
@@AnthonyTurnham OH! I was looking for a link! Got it. Doh!
Sorry, just realized my mistake. Clock it up to old age, 80 years here. Never got Camera Flat. Might be because I have a Sony.
Yep different manufacturers have different profiles. Just opt for the least contrasty profile as your starting point.
@@archiphoto Thank you for your response
@@archiphoto How does profiles matter if one is shooting RAW, apart than the levels diagram being more correct as the camera is reading it from the JPG but not from the RAW file itself?
This is not for merged HDR file?
No. But it could be! This is all about a good result at speed and creating merged HDR files just adds another thing to do before your proofs can be exported.
About HDR nothing?
Disclude is not a word.
Phew, thanks for that. I spend a lot of time working on this free content to share hoping to help people so it's good to know when I've made a mistake. Thanks man 🫡
After all the info shared, THAT's what you comment on? Geez, what about "thank you"? Oh, btw, according to the OED and Wiktionary (I stopped looking after that) yes, it is in fact a word. Do your research before acting like a complete douchebag. I bet you're a whole heap of fun at a party 🙄
Bro please talk a bit more alive, I'm Italian but I had to put it 1.25x
The speed was perfect for me and English is my first language