I really appreciate you taking the time to present such excellent information. Your teaching is easy to understand and well done. I have shared this channel with my friends. Again, thank you
I really like seeing different mechanical advantage hauling ratchets. For big wall climbing there is a system known as Chongo’s 2:1 Hauling Ratchet that has been a game changer in reducing the task of hauling loads into a much less exhausting aspect of these climbs. Similar to systems like the JAG the 2:1 Ratchet is separate from the main haul line, making it much more efficient than methods that were built using the tail of the haul line. This also means its quick to deploy, usually stored in a small vinyl bag when not in use. Aside from the mechanical advantage it provides it also makes passing knots relatively simple which is an awesome feature. I’m curious to hear if you have seen this system or used it before. Hearing from experts outside of the sport of climbing weigh in on things commonly used for rock climbing is interesting and often educational.
Hauling systems that are created by something other than the loaded rope are commonly referred to as "piggyback" or "pig rig" systems. Depending on the application, you can install a progress capture device (PCD) on either the loaded rope or the piggyback system, or both. The Petzl JAG and the Rock Exotica AZTEK are examples of pre-packaged piggyback systems. You will also hear terms like "jigger" or "set of fours" used for pre-packaged systems. I prefer assembling something as needed so the components remain more versatile. But that requires knowledge and much practice to assemble correctly and quickly when needed.
Has anyone other than me used the canyon cordelette to make an adjustable W trad anchor? The prusiks help to perfect equalization, and should theoretically add a dynamic aspect to the system.
Can this also be used as a personal anchor? Would love to have the additional utility in a single piece of gear. Also, you could run the line with the Edelrid SPOC, as its rated for 7mm (or the Nano Traxxion but the SPOC is the superior device IMO).
The sewn eye allows you to put more passes of rope into each carabiner. Before the sewn eye version was available I did the same thing with a figure eight on a bight. Knot is bulkier and can get in the way.
At 01:35, it looks it's a Blake's Hitch, correct me if wrong. I'm sure it could be used as a personal anchor, just make sure you check that the prusik part hasn't worked its way loose. If it has, it can be easily re-tightened by pulling on the tail that emerges from the middle of the prusik turns.
I really appreciate you taking the time to present such excellent information. Your teaching is easy to understand and well done. I have shared this channel with my friends. Again, thank you
Thank you for your kind words. Means a lot to me.
My favorite video. Thanks!
Great video Rich. Thank you!
I really like seeing different mechanical advantage hauling ratchets. For big wall climbing there is a system known as Chongo’s 2:1 Hauling Ratchet that has been a game changer in reducing the task of hauling loads into a much less exhausting aspect of these climbs. Similar to systems like the JAG the 2:1 Ratchet is separate from the main haul line, making it much more efficient than methods that were built using the tail of the haul line. This also means its quick to deploy, usually stored in a small vinyl bag when not in use. Aside from the mechanical advantage it provides it also makes passing knots relatively simple which is an awesome feature. I’m curious to hear if you have seen this system or used it before. Hearing from experts outside of the sport of climbing weigh in on things commonly used for rock climbing is interesting and often educational.
Hauling systems that are created by something other than the loaded rope are commonly referred to as "piggyback" or "pig rig" systems. Depending on the application, you can install a progress capture device (PCD) on either the loaded rope or the piggyback system, or both. The Petzl JAG and the Rock Exotica AZTEK are examples of pre-packaged piggyback systems. You will also hear terms like "jigger" or "set of fours" used for pre-packaged systems. I prefer assembling something as needed so the components remain more versatile. But that requires knowledge and much practice to assemble correctly and quickly when needed.
Great material and great videos, thank you so much for producing these videos.
Thank you for your kind words. Means a lot to me.
Has anyone other than me used the canyon cordelette to make an adjustable W trad anchor? The prusiks help to perfect equalization, and should theoretically add a dynamic aspect to the system.
It is common. Glad to hear you discovered that use as well.
Can this also be used as a personal anchor? Would love to have the additional utility in a single piece of gear. Also, you could run the line with the Edelrid SPOC, as its rated for 7mm (or the Nano Traxxion but the SPOC is the superior device IMO).
If you did not have a sewn ending, would you tie a figure eight on a bight with a short tail? Or something else?
The sewn eye allows you to put more passes of rope into each carabiner. Before the sewn eye version was available I did the same thing with a figure eight on a bight. Knot is bulkier and can get in the way.
how do you make a single rope prusik? can it be used as a personal anchor system in sport climbing?
At 01:35, it looks it's a Blake's Hitch, correct me if wrong. I'm sure it could be used as a personal anchor, just make sure you check that the prusik part hasn't worked its way loose. If it has, it can be easily re-tightened by pulling on the tail that emerges from the middle of the prusik turns.