"Roof Installation: How To Shingle a Valley (HD)" by RoofRepair101
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2013
- "Roof Installation - How To Shingle a Valley (HD)" by RoofRepair101
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This video demonstrates step-by-step how to roof a valley with 3-tab and Architectural roofing shingles. - Навчання та стиль
"Don't nail within 6 inches of the valley" as we watch the guy hit several about 3-4 inches from the valley...
Lol yup knew someone else was gonna see that
I can imagine they said ... We nail it but you don’t
If you build it they will come
Its funny I was just going to post exacly what you said then I thought did anyone else caught that? Then I scrolled down and saw your post. Haha
I nail 6 inches from the valley sometimes depending on the situation but I khark the nail to prevent leaks
Very detailed video on how to shingle and weave a roof valley. The woven valley is probably the best for three-tab asphalt roof shingles. Installing Weather-Watch in the valley is very important especially in areas that can build up ice dams. The open valley method takes more time but is more aesthetically pleasing especially on older Colonial style homes with older more intricate roof-lines. Great video and well done..
And you're saying you're a roofing company, HA HA
They didn’t even use safety skirts in the valley when a 3 tab seam line thing falls in the valley. Piss poor installation no one knows how to properly
Do 3 tab anymore
bueno el video. me ayudó bastante. gracias a los creadores.
very helpfull!!
I only like doing a w metal valley I run a shingle straight up n down the metal then I start my run with bottom corner where meets the vertical shingles edge
Good video. Thank you guys for shering such a great video
Good video,i will upload some videos on the roofing too.
You probably now more about roofing then these fools.
Our roof keep leaking and our constructor only had the roof structure up then straight by put on the roof without anything, so whenever my air-con worker step on the roof it couldn't really hold him and damage our roof while doing it
as a roofer of 27 years i prefer a closed cut valey ,metal tends to expand and contract in weather over time and pulls the nails up ,but one of the roofers is going nuts with the nails there should be no nails where the shigle butt one to another on the shigles with no tabs
what about large head screws Don Viau?
Our roof keep leaking and our constructor only had the roof structure up then straight by put on the roof without anything, so whenever my air-con worker step on the roof it couldn't really hold him and damage our roof while doing it. And the wall cracks beneath. So our was not being done right?
were is the valley metal
Great video thanks.
Viva México canpiones
As a roofers we all might agree that valleys are the most critical area on a roof so...why not start laying our shingles right there? By doing it you'll be able to use full length shingles where it needed most and save time and material by making cuts on the opposite side only. 3:15 totally wrong
+Mario Lopez depends if there is another valley on the other side
+Mario Lopez Find another mean to make money before it's to late
Mario Lopez
it doesn't matter as long as your shingle goes far enough through the valley, your nail placement is correct, and your stagger is correct.
But in this case, ya, he could a did that little section lefty.
Mario Lopez exactly
And a lot of bosses don't let u unless your a seasoned roofer cus That's how dips start
Im getting lessons from the bad guy off the mummy 😄 good info tho
Imhotep.... Imhotep...
Lol
I can't believe that experienced roofers in conjunction with a major manufacturer would not start from the valley, effectively controlling that size shingle is installed into the valley, on both sides. Shame, gaf.
Never mind the fact that all three techniques are horrible. A California valley is the only valley that should ever be installed on a roof. Requires no cutting or gooping and looks way sharper and it can be installed with three-tab's or architectural shingles.. wtf gaf
*****
I don't trust a California valley, and I don't think it looks good. Valleys should be either open or closed, and that's it. A California valley reminds me of something some asshole came up with just because it was "easier". I doubt that's it's NRCA approved or time tested in any way.
I also like how *right after* the guys says that woven valleys should *only be used with 3-tab or slateline shingles*, they use a big fuckin' picture of a woven valley with timberlines as a their lead in to the "woven valley" segment. I mean, who watched this video and approved it? Come on, GAF, this is just *flagrant*. I could literally pick this video apart segment by segment for mistakes. I mean, these guys installing these shingles are morons, and you videotaped them?
Astromyxin What's not to trust. That's the problem with roofers now a day they don't actually think through there processes. A California style valley is well thought out. It gives all the benefits of an open valley with a sharp closed look with no waste. It is time tested as its been around for a lot longer than you might think. In MT its been the preferred method of doing a valley for 50 years. IE its the only way that teal-bro's does a shingled valley.
California valleys have been around for 50 years? I don't think so. Why? Because you can't do them with a three tab shingle, and if you did it would look *really* dumb, and affect drainage by adding all of those little eyelets right in the valley, impeding water flow, accumulating debris, and eventually blowing seals. California valleys don't allow water to flow naturally. Plus, I don't think they look near as sharp as a proper closed valley does. It's looks...off. It looks like there's a backwards shingle in there or something, something doesn't belong. The laminate patterns crisscross and are not pleasing to the eye, at least in my opinion. If it were my house, I'd have open valleys with ice shield and lead-coated copper in them, but that's beside the point. Down here in Delaware(as long as I've been here), nobody has *ever* asked for a California valley. While most homeowners generally don't care what valley you put on their house, the ones who do make educated and informed choices regarding valley selection, none of which ever have included a "california style" valley.
That's no roofing hammer.
Dude looks like Stephen bonner the American psycho ufc
And they say it's "simple" laying a valley. Even a lot of experienced roofers take they're time to make sure shits right. It isn't as simple as they make it lol
It's funny to give instructions asking with a video that demonstrates doing things that you're explicitly stating not to do! 😅
No he ddnt he said only do it with 3 tab
Heh, in Ontario where I shingle we tend to put metal valleys .
PokieManzz most people use metal here, I think it's faster and looks better than closed valleys. Faster too.
I got shingles once, hurt like hell.
where? on your eyebrows? lol
I disagree with this training video. Start in the valley and weave them. Double protection and then run each direction.
Not suppose to weave laminated idiot
@@williamcutrell7456 do you feel better by name calling ?
Valley metal is way better
Who uses open valley's 🤷🤦
@@jasonbranson448 Open valleys are by far the best and fastest way to shed water out of a valley if done correctly. All jobs with 50+ year roofs(like say Grand Manor or actual or fake slate) that use expensive shingles will suffer in the long run and will require more maintenance if you don't opt for a correctly installed W-style open valley pan. When I say correctly installed, I mean: A non-aluminium W-style valley pan(laid over top of a valley with an ice and water shield type membrane already installed underneath) that's at the very least 36" wide(18" on either side not counting the profile of the W) with upturned hems on the outer edges to accept cleats. The cleats (which should be made from a similar metal as the pan itself to prevent electrolysis and corrosion from occurring, is sort of shaped like this, but flatter: _/> ), spaced every 12"-16" hook into the upturned hems of the valley pan (which sort of looks like this except less flat: ) and only the cleats are fastened(in a manner that prevents their ability to rack or twist) to the roof deck to hold the pan in place securely. No fastener should never puncture a valley pan, not even to fasten down the roofing in the area of the valley. All roofing shingles or tiles touching the pan must not be allowed to come to a right triangle shaped point at the headlap part of their valley side termination(this allows "tracking" to occur and debris to accumulate). These tips or points should be removed by cutting 2"-3" off the horizontal length of the tip in a way that the shape of the shingle or tile physically directs water back into the valley, i.e. by cutting the tip in a perpendicular or slightly obtuse manner. Each shingle or tile must be sealed directly to the pan with a flexible or elastomeric sealant(that's compatible to both metal and asphalt, if you're using an asphalt shingle). Ideally, each shingle would be back-caulked anywhere it touches the valley pan(with special attention paid to the leading edges) and the shingles themselves should be sealed to each other so as to not rely on the factory adhesive to adhere the shingles to themselves. You never want something that you put this much work into to be vulnerable to wind uplift and require a later repair; you definitely don't want to ever have to disturb this valley again, that would suck major balls). Technically, you don't even want your roofing to come into contact with the pan itself, but this won't always be possible(or necessary) without another, even more labor intensive step(à la www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/cads/flashing-valleys.B.equal-slopes-unequal-water.dwg ) If the valley requires more than one length of pan, the two pans should be joined mechanically with a cleated flat lock seam or cleated double lock seam and then soldered if the pitch of the roof is low and backup can be expected to occur. If the roof is steeper and water is less likely to back up into the seam, any number of loose lock seams with sealant or transverse seams can be used to join the pans together. And lastly, the exposed portion of the metal valley pan should taper outwards in width at a rate of about 1/16" per foot as it travels downroof, i.e. having 2" on either side of the valley pan exposed to the weather at the topmost part of the valley and having 3" on either side exposed at the bottommost part of the valley. This is done to accommodate and more quickly shed the increased volumes of water that the valley collects as it progresses downroof.
@@Astromyxin your just showing off now dam!
They wear safety harnesses without the rope attached to it ... lol
thatsgayasaids
lol
Amateurs and a red line to top it off
I think it's funny that people are still using three tab shingles. So old and cheap. We don't even carry them
pathetic video. just horrendous. i learned from a 37year roofer and ive done it 12 years now. every woven valley ive ever toreoff was rotted to hell and back underneath. and like others have said... any real roofer starts in the valley
12 years and you still don't know anything about roofing. you start from the right if you're left handed or you start from the left if you're right handed, on a gable or a hip house, if you start in the valley you'll need to work backwards on one side or the other. You never start in the valley unless you have both right and left handed roofers on your crew. NEVER MIND. Here in California weaved valleys are by far the best, they're self cleaning.
These people are not the masters of roofing. Gaf shingles's are not the best product. D minus for the crappy video