Great presentation and man I was feeling for you having to get out the rest of that ball joint. It's easy to miss any step of the process for anyone and filming adds that much more to complexity. Some really nice parts and attention to detail in your build. Nice work.
just put in STI control arms and antilift kit from whiteline. The instructions and the factory manual said to torque all the bushings and when the car is at ride hide. I guess this makes sense you want the bush to be compressed when in the neutral position as the car sits. I have heard stories where people torque bushings down when the body is raised and the bushing fail prematurely. I ended up putting jack stands under the rotors and used a crows foot with a torque wrench for the rear control arm nut
That's correct, any bushing that moves while driving should be torqued with the suspension loaded. I mentioned in the video that the car still needs to be aligned, so all those points will be loosened and re torqued during the alignment. On projects like this, I like to torque them during install so that if by some chance I forget to that they need to be torqued under load after everything is done, at least I'm driving around on properly tightened parts and not hand tight bolts and nuts.
Crows foot is the tool to torque those nuts you couldn't get a socket onto. Depending on how long of one you get you will need to calculate your torque settings, because your increasing your leverage on the nut the further away you get from the torque wrench.
Brooooooooo those arms match my wheels perfectly color wise LMAO. I may have to pick these up for my bugeye now @TwoFourSevenDIY where did you purchase these from?
www.ebay.com/itm/266629694166 These are the 70mm ones I used. Pretty sure the 60mm ones would be perfect and not need modification, bit I can't confirm that as I made the 70mm ones work.
Just did all this to my wifes 2003 WRX. Needless to say it wans't rusty but i did soak EVERYTHING in pb blaster 2 days prior.
Great presentation and man I was feeling for you having to get out the rest of that ball joint. It's easy to miss any step of the process for anyone and filming adds that much more to complexity. Some really nice parts and attention to detail in your build. Nice work.
Yea it was a pretty frustrating mistake. Really didnt want to have to remove the knuckle, I glad I found a way to sort it out still on the vehicle.
just put in STI control arms and antilift kit from whiteline. The instructions and the factory manual said to torque all the bushings and when the car is at ride hide. I guess this makes sense you want the bush to be compressed when in the neutral position as the car sits. I have heard stories where people torque bushings down when the body is raised and the bushing fail prematurely. I ended up putting jack stands under the rotors and used a crows foot with a torque wrench for the rear control arm nut
That's correct, any bushing that moves while driving should be torqued with the suspension loaded.
I mentioned in the video that the car still needs to be aligned, so all those points will be loosened and re torqued during the alignment.
On projects like this, I like to torque them during install so that if by some chance I forget to that they need to be torqued under load after everything is done, at least I'm driving around on properly tightened parts and not hand tight bolts and nuts.
Crows foot is the tool to torque those nuts you couldn't get a socket onto. Depending on how long of one you get you will need to calculate your torque settings, because your increasing your leverage on the nut the further away you get from the torque wrench.
Thanks. I also saw there are torque wrenches available with a crescent wrench head on them, I think I'm gonna order one.
Brooooooooo those arms match my wheels perfectly color wise LMAO. I may have to pick these up for my bugeye now @TwoFourSevenDIY where did you purchase these from?
Its the SuperPro kit. Ordered mine through an Ebay vendor after price hunting a bit.
would you happen to have a link to the bolts you used for the lower balljoint?
www.ebay.com/itm/266629694166
These are the 70mm ones I used. Pretty sure the 60mm ones would be perfect and not need modification, bit I can't confirm that as I made the 70mm ones work.
What ball joint remover tool was that???
Astro Pneumatic Tool 78620 Subaru Ball Joint Puller a.co/d/6cguYTG