Yamaha Warrior 1700 Click of Death Fix
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In this video I show you a quick easy fix for the click of death on the Yamaha Roadstar Warrior. This video is for informational purposes and I take no responsibility for any damage that may occur from you working on your own bike.
Update-- Since making this video, it has been brought to my attention that if the bulb is mounted to where it can be seen, you can also check it periodically to be sure it hasn't blown.
Incandescent Indicator Light-
amzn.to/2VwA6oE
Here i was thinking i got screwed when i bought my warrior. Heard the clicking going crazy and thought my engine was toast😂 sad to see that youre no longer active. Your vids have been super helpful man. Hope youre doing good!
Bryan is an amazing guy, hope you all appreciate him.. I am a VMAX guy and we have no one to help us out like this great guy Bryan. :)
Thanks! Sounds like maybe YOU need to be the guy that helps out on the vmax!
@@RSWarriorBryan Thanks, just like to help out when I can. :) You do a super job!!
I'm loving your videos Bryan! I just bought a Warrior and I'm learning thanks to you!
Awesome! Glad the videos are able to help out! Welcome to the family! You're going to love your new bike. Be sure to join the forum as well. All the info you could imagine over these bikes. Thanks again, stay safe!
That amazon link will not open the part that I need. I've just got an LED headlight, but it's starting to randomly act up and just die in traffic sitting at a red light.
EDIT: I went to Theisens and bought a small orange dome light from theisens for like $1.50 and broke the socket out of the orange housing and used the light bulb and 2 wires to wire it in. Works great now.
Great short to the point video.
Thanks Jojo! Hope it was able to help out!
Thanks from Lithuania!
This dudes being really helpful 👍
That guy is awesome, he helps me all the time and answers back fast!👍👍
Definitely try! I figure if someone has a question, they need an answer. They don't want to wait three days with their bike torn apart before they figure it out themselves.
@@RSWarriorBryan Yesssss! And thanks Bryan.
Any time!
I don't have L.e.d.'s or the click of death (just got the midnite warrior 2 weeks ago) but subscribed and liked for future reference.
Hey, this link to the light on amazon is expired. Can you maybe add another for ppl still having this problem? Thanks for the videos!
Hi Bryan, first off.. I love your Videos. they were really helpful.. and saved me quite a bit of money... I Also had a question... my bike runs fine... no issues... But, when I am ryding and give its throttle and the RPM goes High. the Bike wont speed and feels like its not doing anything at all. then I have to lower my RPM to make the bike speed...could this be the Air filter or Spark plugs? or something major??
How many miles are on the bike? Could it be your clutch starting to slip? Could be a few different things, but that comes to mind. Does it happen at a certain rpm, or throttle position? Any tells as to an exact time that it is happening?
@@RSWarriorBryan thanks for your reply.. it has 45k on it. And only happends when you try to instantly rev it at really high RPM. but, if you let go off the throttle and give it light Rev, its fine..
@@RSWarriorBryan i have ordered the Plugs and Air filter and was thinking is there is anyway to sdjust the clutch pack along woth Clutch cable?..
You can adjust the cable, but unfortunately won't be able to adjust the actual clutch pack. You can buy the Barnett pressure plate which is milled slightly deeper than the stock one. It'll let it get a little more wear on the pack, plus it'll upgrade the diaphragm spring, to six cool springs which will provide even more pressure to the clutch. Of course, if that's not what is causing it, it won't fix the actual problem, just upgrade the clutch.
Very helpful. I have a 2005 Midnight Warrior that is kind of a electrical nightmare. What can you tell me about the clutch? I have it adjusted ,but it does not seem to disengage with the bike off.
See...now I'm nervous. Bought my bike recently and it has LED everything and I dont know if its got a resistor or not...so I just use the key..but I'd like to know if if already been corrected on my bike
Brian. I replaced the rear turn signal for some led ones. Should I install the incandescent light in the headlight area? Would it be the same color cables u used? Thanks for the awesome and educational videos
You didn't show what type/size indicator light you wired in. What should I use, a small 12v, 4watt bulb that is already in a wired socket?
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting. I believe I left a link in the description that you can get one from. All you need is a small incadescent indicator light. Just something to drain that excess power. I believe I went with a sealight brand. If you can't find one, let me know and I'll send you a link to one. Just a small pre wired light.
@@RSWarriorBryan thanks for the response>
I spliced in a small 12 v wired socket to the blue and black turn signal wires but am still getting the clicking. Was I supposed to wire in two 12 v bulb sockets or what may I have done incorrectly? I have two LED turn signals on front and the integrated/taillight turn signals on rear. My clicking didn't start until after I installed the front LEDs-there was no clicking after I left the oem signals up front and had the integrated brake/tail LED setup. Help.
Hi Bryan. It’s been a long while since you’ve help me fix a problem on my Warrior. I had to stop ride for a few years and in that time I’ve kept the bike on a trickle charger and was able to start it a few time without much issue. I have the ability to start riding again but the bike makes that clicking sound. The battery has just over 12.5 volts and I’ve also run jumpers from my car for extra power but doesn’t help. My recollection is not to have the car running when jumping a motorcycle, correct?
I’ve not chased any of the blinkers to led. But the tail light is an aftermarket led. Hope you can help. Thanks. Al.
Hello Bryan, THANK GOD FOR YOU! would this works for my 03 silver limited 1600? this just started out of the blue. I had it sitting for 6 months a lost the key. buddy dropped it of at locksmith. got key started right up with jump box BUT gas was pouring out the top of carb. I stopped bike and hit the carb with butt of screwdriver to fee the float. I hooked jump box up and when i turned the key on, it stated doing that clicking. I finally said screw it and just kept hitting starter with it clicking and it barley turned over but clicking stopped unless it was idling and it was not fast clicking, just random not constant. I haven't replaced any lights and only have front blinkers and headlight. i just charged the new battery and about to install it. please tell me this will fix mine too.
I don't believe so. I believe what you're hearing is just the clicking of a dead battery. If it has been sitting for six months without a tender or anything on the battery, it probably drained. Install the new battery and see how that goes. I believe that will fix your starting problem. The carb spitting out gas is a complete other issue though. Lol keep me posted and if the battery doesn't fix it, we will try and figure out some other options.
My next guess after the battery would be the solenoid or starter. Of you haven't replaced your turn signals with led or taken off your plate light, you shouldn't have the click of death, and to be honest, not sure if it carried to the rest of the star line or just the warriors.
Hi Bryan, thanks a lot for that video. I replaced my turnsignals with LEDs fron and back and also run a LED taillight with integrated plate lights (also LED). Today I switched off the bike with the kill switch, which I usually don't do and encountered the COD. So, if I only need to add a load somewhere to drain off the power, could I also hide a bulb or resistor somewhere near the tail light? Maybe behind the license plate? If I hook it up to the tail light, it should act like the original plate light, right?
Thanks for watching and the question! That's exactly right. There should be a blue wire for the plate light and if you tap into that, you should also be able to fix your problem.
@@RSWarriorBryan What resistor size would work? I also have LED tail lights and a LED license plate light bar.
Hi. I have a Yamaha warrior with a big and undetectable problem, interrupting between 1200/2000 turnovers in the filter box and in the exhaust sometime
Any recent modifications? Do you have a fuel tuner connected?
@@RSWarriorBryan Hi bro, thanks for the reply. My motorcycle only has a K&N filter and vance & hlnes exaust, i've removed the ecology everything else is original.
would a resistor work in place of the bulb
What a good barrier far a warriors 1700cc
I still have the click of death!
I wired in a small 12 volt socket, splicing into the black and blue turn signal wires. I still have the clicking when I turn the bike off with the kill switch.
Was I supposed to wire into 12-volt socket/bulbs? What did I do wrong?
Hey Guy, thanks for commenting. Hopefully we can get this figured out and fixed up for you. First off, when you say turn signal wires, are they actually the wires for the running lights? The running lights are always on vs the signals only being on when in use. Second, the light should just be a small incadescent indicator light. Check the link in the video description and see if it's the same one you're using. Last, try running the bike and see if the light you connected is lit when the bike is running. If it is connected to the right wires it should be lit when bike is running. Check those out and get back with me and let's get your click of death fixed!
On my 2004 RS warrior, I've changed out all 4 turn signals with custom dynamics LEDs as well as the rear with a blaster x and a pathfinder LED H4 headlight.
I changed the flash relay to a Custom LED brand. " Is the click of death " inherent to certain years or all?
I haven't started the bike since sent out my ECU to Ivan, so don't know if this will happen on my bike. Wondering if a resistor would work as well. Any thought? Thanks.,
Well.. this also applies to 2004.
Now waiting on the light from Amazon.
Did you by chance keep the plate light? That's another spot that the excess energy is drained when the bike is killed with the kill switch. It's also a very wierd deal where some people get it and others don't. My father has never had a problem with it even though he has removed and/or switched all lights to LED.
@@RSWarriorBryan I did keep the brake light. I put the ecu back in. I also added a garmin zumo 396 and used the running light blue wire and its black ground wire, (under the seat before it goes to the rear light connector, not in the headlight), so the garmin has switched power and not direct to the battery. This garmin unit has a voltage transformer in line with the positive lead. I also have a USB power port plugged directly to the battery terminals since I mounted these two I do not have the click of death occurring. I believe the transformers for both of these devices dissipate energy. I haven't tried disconnecting them both to see if the click returns. Idid disconnect the garmin that is in the running light circuit and the click did not happen. I backed myself up with your recommended Amazon light just in case I have a future pronlem.
Work perfect thanks!
No problem! Thanks for watching. The only thing I've actually heard of improving on the fix since making the video, is to possibly wore the bulb somewhere it can be seen. If the bulb does go out, the click of deayh will come back, but if the bulb is sinewherenseen, it'd be easy to tell if it ever went out. That Saud, ovebyetbronfix mine that way, and it still is going strong.
Glad the video was able to help out and hopefully I have more that can help in the future. If you haven't yet, be sure to subscribe as well. Thanks again!
I found out from swapping my light out with my warrior, if the turn signal relay isn’t grounded then the switch in the relay goes back and forth which, I presume, is the clicking sound.
The piece you connected to the two wires behind the headlight how can I find that piece? And thank you for your video couldn't figure this out at all
Hey, thanks for watching. I hope it's been able to help you out, here is a link to one on eBay, I double checked to make sure it was an incadescent light, but double check it yourself as well. If you run into any problems or questions, definitely let me know. Only thing I've heard since making this video to improve on it, is to possibly mount that light where it can be seen, just in case it blows. Thanks again, stay safe!
Thank you but not seeing a link..
😂😂 that's not the first time I've done that! Sorry! Check this one out.
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338428498&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FGreen-12V-Incandescent-Indicator-Light-Snap-in%2F252754181423%3Fepid%3D540576755%26hash%3Ditem3ad952bd2f%253Ag%253AVSkAAOSwDNZcczV~%26LH_BIN%3D1
Lol its okay thank you very much for helping me out with this video link and all
Please, can u write a link where to buy incandescent light... Can not find anywhere. Thanks!
Hi Brian...i already eliminate the rear turn lights, to led lights... i have to give current from other side??
Hey Eliseo, thanks for the question. If you are just switching out the rear turn signals, you shouldn't have to worry about it as long as you keep your plate light. Are you still running stock front turn signals? Do they have running lights? In America we have front running lights and that's another place the energy drains off when the bike is killed. If you are overseas and don't have front running lights, there should still be a sky blue wire inside the headlight bucket you can use to fix the click of death.
Hope this answered your question, and if you ever have any more, feel free to ask anytime. Thanks again!
@@RSWarriorBryan hi...thanks for your response i eliminate the plate base and front and rear turning lights to leds...
I just got my light from ebay and ordered a set of quick clip wire connectors. Since the wire connector kit came with connectors for several different gauges, what gauge is the turn signal/bulb wire?
Awesome! Such a quick easy fix. I believe the wires are either 18 or 20 gauge.
@@RSWarriorBryan Thanks again for this video. Took care of it this weekend and I have my kill switch back! Only thing I can add is that I had to use pliers to really crimp down on these to finally get the connectors to work. Light also didn't come with labels as to which one was negative and positive. I just took a chance and hoped it would work on the first go around. Don't know if it mattered or not but it did work and now no more COD.
Yeah, shouldn't really matter which wire you use, just have to complete the circuit on it. Glad that it got it fixed. Only thing is to watch the light in the future. When/if it blows, the click of death will be back. Have had mine almost a year and no problem at all though.
tell me if i just remove all the turning signals, would i still have click of death or chance of it happening at all ??
Thanks for watching! If you keep the license plate light, you should be okay. The plate light and front running lights are where the extra power drains when you kill the bike. When you remove them or switch to led, there is nowhere for it to drain and it causes the click of death. Hope that helps! Stay safe brother!
@@RSWarriorBryan thank you it sure does
I just replaced my headlight on a xv1700 Silverado for a led headlight and this started if there any way around that?
Thanks for watching and commenting! As for fixing the headlight, I'm not sure. I know the Warrior and the silverado share a lot of parts as well as many other similarities. This problem happens on the Warrior when you remove or switch the plate light and or running lights to LED. I haven't heard of it happening when switching the headlight at all, so not sure how it would be fixed. I'll check around and see if I can get any information on what may be causing this and or what a fix may be. I'll let you know if I'm able to come up with anything that may help. Thanks again for watching, stay safe out there brother!
But your assuming some of us new owners of a warrior already know what the "click of death" even is. Maybe start video explaining this?
Hey Bryan is it necessary to take headlight bucket off of 2006 warrior to replace the OEM turn signals?
Hey I see you have aftermarket bars on your bike did you do that yourself or did you have a shop do it?
He, thinks for the comment and for watching the video. I actually installed the bars myself. All the upgrades I've done to the bike were done by me, sometimes wondering if I was doing it correctly even!
Biggest advice for the bars is remove the tank to keep from accidentally damaging it. Remove the headlight bucket to give you better access to the two bolts underneath. Of the risers are seized, try turning them with a pipe wrench or something, they will break free and it is only the two bottom bolts holding it on.
Other than that, of you have any other questions or concerns, feel free to get back with me. Thanks again for watching the video, and be sure to subscribe before you go so that you get all my new videos as they come out.
Life of Bryan already subscribed sir. Thank you for the advice I've taken them off but when I take off the risers am I supposed to get new bolts to go into the new bars or what I'm really confused on that part.
awesome! Thanks for subscribing! Hopefully I can come out with some more videos that will help you in the future.
Depending on the bars, you should have screws that you'll screw through the bottom up into the bars. The bottom of the bars should have two threaded holes. Is that the case? I believe mine took a pretty course thread, almost like a big wood screw.
What kind of bars did you go with?
Life of Bryan yes they have the two holes at the bottom they're drag bars my uncle got I'm not exactly sure the exact bars. When I took the risers out also the bars were too big for the holes idk if the bars are supposed to go in there or sit on top
No, they'll sit on top. You should have a couple of dampers that stay in, and you bolt the bars directly through them. The bars actually sit on top of the triple tree.
Hi there, when you located your turn signal wires, were they already disconnected to the front turn signals or did you effectively install the component in series?
Hey John, thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing! I really appreciate it. I had already taken my turn signals off and discarded them. That's what caused my click of death. Are you installing LED front signals? If so, you can still splice the bulb into the sky blue running light wire, and the black wire and it should still work. Just need to give that energy somewhere to drain off. When you take off the factory running lights, or replace with LED, it doesn't have anywhere to go since the LED lights don't pull enough energy to drain it.
I'm almost positive that as long as you still have the factory plate light on the back, it will also drain off there. Running lights are an American thing on these bikes, so the plate light was where the energy was drained off on the bikes overseas.
Really hope that was able to help answer your question and kind of give you an idea on why it happens and how it works. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks again!
@@RSWarriorBryan hello there! I'm a newbie into all of this and I've looked into the c.o.d. Yeah this video has helped me as I'm about to install an LED rear light with integrated turn signals. I'm on the forum as "dr powerful" I'm just watching your videos now and sharing them, great videos!
Welcome to the Warrior family!! They're amazing bikes. You already have done the best thing by joining the forum. There is a ton of information on there for anything you can think of doing to the bike. If you haven't, there are also a couple of Facebook groups that you can join as well. Have a lot of good guys on there that will go out of their way to help out a fellow rider.
If you're just installing the rear integrated tail light, you shouldn't have to worry about the click of death yet. You should only get it when you replace the front turns signals with LED and take off the plate light in the states, or just take off the plate light overseas. The rear signals and tail light should be fine to replace, you'll just get the rapid turn signal unless you also install a flasher relay. I never did, just kept the rapid signals on mine.
Thanks again for watching, hopefully I have some more videos that can help you out as well. Ever have one that you would like made that I don't have, feel free to ask and I'll see what I can do.
@@RSWarriorBryan ah right thanks! The coils repositioned under the tank with a relocation plate would be great! 😄
Another mod I need to do as well. Was debating on that's, or possibly having a bracket made for my left side and doing the dyna coil upgrade and have them located on that left side. May do a relocation of the stock for now while I wait to get the dyna coils done. Will get a plate ordered in and try and get that video done for you in the next few weeks. Thanks for the idea!
Can somebody help me out. What is that relay called I can’t seem to find it on Amazon. I have the same issue with my warrior
i dont see leds signals mentioned? isnt video front turn signal delete? brown wire and 3 from other side left cut? coulda mentioned to avoid confusion
my stock signals fell off. my replacments incadesents only have 1 wire...so i'll still need ur running light drain fix? same would be true for leds? blue running light couldn't be spliced into headlight
time to push start click
Hey is the indicator light supposed to turn on at all or is it just for the power drain off after the bike is shut off
He mentioned if it is placed in a location where it can be seen, you can check if it hasn't blown
Where can I get the parts that you just installed from
Bryan, can you help me out with this question. For the life of me I can't find the duel filament 3 pin/prong bulb that goes in the front that serves as both for daytime running light and turn signal. Can you please post the exact link to buy it if you have that information.
Hey John, thanks for the likes and subscription! Welcome to the warrior community, you will love the bike more than you even knows. Thanks for the question as well. I believe what you’re looking for is going to be found here: www.amazon.com/Stanley-A4879-BAY15d-Clear-Plain/dp/B007BWCIPU . Hope this helped and feel free to ask any other questions you come up with. If you haven’t already, join the rswarrior forum, there is a wealth of knowledge on there as well.
Life of Bryan Thank you so much Bryan, I will mention your channel to other people.
I forgot to mention the bulb is Amber, im having trouble finding it in Amber even with the link you posted.
I was trying to choose between the M109r and the Warrior, I chose the Warrior because after investigating reviews ect it's a solid bike and reliable.
The clutch and second gear problem on the M109r made me avoid it like the plague and I'm soo happy with the Warrior!
The bike is soo badass in every kind of way and it can make the nerdiest rider look like a total Badass as well! The bike just has that kind phenomenon to it! Lol😜
I’m sorry about that, I was just going off the bulbs that were in my bike. I've searched a few different sites and am having the same problem only being able to find clear. Join the groups on Facebook and the forum. There are a lot of guys more than willing to help with any questions you have. I'm sorry I couldn't help out this time.
Life of Bryan Thank you so much for your time. Worst case scenario perhaps I can use clear bulbs and just change the lens cover to Amber..lol do you think it's better to get in the habit of turning the bike off with the key or turning it off with the kill switch?
The kill switch is fine to use as long as you don't have the COD. Other than that it all just boils down to preference. I've always used a kill switch, so I wanted to just fix the problem as opposed to bypassing it.
but why? there are special relays to "emulate" the incadecent light bulb drain for the bike electronics. besides, you can easily fry your wiring inside the deadlight with the light bulb so close to the wires and get a short circuit.
bntw, why do you have SO many wires inside the headlight? there should be way less wiring inside...
Bulb is probably low output and does not get hot...
That sound is almost like when the bike is dead and you go to start it. I’m having a bad issue with my bike atm.
Hey Levi, thank for watching! That's exactly correct about the sound. Just happens to do it with the bike and key completely turned off, instead of trying to start it. What seems to be happening with your bike? Electrical issue?
ua-cam.com/video/cjwDlwjAw3c/v-deo.html this is the most recent. I put in a brand new fully charged battery because the old one went through that negative weather we had and I couldn’t get it to start, it was dead even with jumpers. The new battery, worked as soon as i put it in, it had a fart as you see in the video, like it was dead, but it fired up, unfortunately 3 hours later, when I went to hop on the bike to go to work, it was dead again. I tried jumping it positive on positive and negative on negative, except it would not start, I even started the car and got nothing. So I took the battery out got a new one after searching for two days. I got a new battery, thought all was well, well Like i said before it did that in the video.
Now, when I got it to start, I had to jump it, using the frame of the bike as a ground instead of the batteries ground. It fired right up, but as it was idling it idles after it got warm between 1100 rpms and 1300 rpms. It wouldn’t calm down, I let this go on for about 10 minutes, for the battery’s sake, I shut the bike off and immediatly try to start it without the jumper cables and it acted as if it were dead. Stumped, I called my tattoo artist, and he’s not a professional but he’s been working on his own bikes and does his own wiring for years. So he told me to check out the fuses. Confused I found that they are under the cap where the key goes to release the seat, I don’t have the right tool to get to them so I have to buy it as soon as I get off work here in an hour, and check them out, make sure none of those are blown. Other than those, I’m not sure where to go from there, the ground wire to the battery is perfectly fine, the positive wire is also fine they are tight. I was just reading on some forums it might be a sensor or selanoid, being that we just had that really cold weather. But I’m totally unsure at this point. It’s my main mode of transportation so it’s frustrating
Man, that's always hard to deal with. Have definitely been there. Only thing worse than having to ride in the winter, is not being able to because the bike isn't cooperating. Have you recently done any mods to the bike? Anything like replacing/removing bulbs or did it just start happening after the bad weather?
Also, have you checked the fuses under the seat? There is a little black fuse box under the seat, near the frame on the right side. It has your efi, lamp, signal, etc fuses. I'd check that before buying that bit to get you in that cover. When you say the ground and positive cables are good and tight, have you checked them on the other end, not just battery posts? The fact that it started with the ground on the frame and not battery, makes me wonder how good the ground connection is on the bike. Is the battery still holding a charge, or is it draining the battery in the three hours between starts? There are a lot of things that it could be, so hopefully we can get it narrowed down a little bit.
Have an 02. Bike starts but when put in gear it dies.
Two things I'd check. First, be sure the kickstand is up when dropping it into gear. Second, would be the clutch plates sticking after sitting all winter. Hope that gives you an idea of where to start.
I just bought a blue light H.I.D. kit, will the click of death happen with H.I.D.?
No sir. As long as you're not messing with the running lights/turn signals or the plate light, you should be good to go.
RS Warrior Bryan so if I just change the headlight bulb to a bright blue one will the COD happen?
Nope. Should be completely fine to change the headlight. Only have to worry about the from running lights and plate light in the rear. Changing or deleting those will be what causes it.
I don't understand what you did
I'll share to Facebook
Wow Blue Quick Splicer,s Really? been professionally wrenching on bikes for over 30 years and have thrown a mountain of those things in the Garbage Can...They invite more electrical problems than any other device....oh well to each his own...Lazy is Lazy i guess..
crap...thats why my decompressor solenoid fucked up...
Sorry, but most of time your hands and fingers are in the way so I could not really see what you were doing.
I tried it..it worked
..thank you....watch me on u tube..
And ..get to know king jesus......cia ghavami testimonials