@@johndo2o9 The more careful you are, the better the job will turn out - just know the risks before you start. If you can only do a partial job, then be prepared to accept partial results.
A lot of mistakes on this video. 1 revolution of the barrel = .025 not .25 The 1/2 thousands numerical value is .0005 Not .005 (.005would be 5 thousands)
Great video, thanks for the help! Only one thing I’d like to point out is, if it’s graduated in half thousandths, it would measure out to .0005. .005” is 5 thousandths. So do you mean each tick on the dial is 5 thousandths of an inch or five ten thousands of an inch (.0005 which would be half a thousandth)
Good Job! Couple things: did you need new bearings?? Many times, I hear, you don't ?? And, where did you buy/order that angle torque device?? Looks handy =) Thanks, youtheman=)
I have a question about the bolt , can I used the old bolts to torque the crank down? or I have to use new ones but then I can re-used them to stay in engine, in other words, if I use new bolts to torque them down to check clearance , I can reuse them again to assemble the engine
If you have new bolts, use the old ones to torque down for measurements and save the new ones for the final assembly. But, generally, the crank bearing cap bolts can be reused.
I took my engine to a machine shop when he measured it he said the clearance I have it good maybe a little looser side within spec. But with plastigauge it's showing its too tight. Which would you side with?
I'd side with the shop. I also don't get very accurate measurements with with plastigauge - I think it's because you can't really put the plastigauge on all sides of the crankshaft at the same time. I bet the plastigauge is lifting up part of the crank, or maybe gravity is compressing it more, or it's somehow not sitting perfectly concentric in the bearing bore. But if you accurately measure both with real tools, then you have real numbers - not an approximation - to make a decision on the tolerances.
Once you know the size, you'll know if the standard ones will be within tolerance or if you need to have a machine shop grind the journals down for an "oversized" bearing.
A substitute? No - a digital caliper really has a resolution down to 0.001" where a micrometer has a resolution down to 0.0001". But, hey, if it's all you have, a digital caliper is better than nothing!
Plastigauge is a valid way to measure, but I've always found this method more precise. I've tried plastigauge on the same surfaces several times in a row and had small variations.
Best education of dial bore/outside micrometer use I have witnessed!😊
Nice video, you've got the voice like a hypnotherapist haha... calm and relaxed the opposite of me 😅
I immediately pictured Michael Douglas from "Falling Down" talking to me. You sound just like him!! Nice video!!
I love that movie!
haha, now i cant unhear it. totally sounds like Michael Douglas, now.
He does!
@@vsvenson too much work and I don't have the tools, can I just torque to specs?
@@johndo2o9 The more careful you are, the better the job will turn out - just know the risks before you start. If you can only do a partial job, then be prepared to accept partial results.
1 revolution of the knob is. 025 of an inch. Not. 25 as you stated at start of video
Love the video, very informative.
ua-cam.com/video/VOZJhYkj3ms/v-deo.html
I’m tryin like hell yo understand all this at school haha way more complex than I thought
A lot of mistakes on this video.
1 revolution of the barrel = .025 not .25
The 1/2 thousands numerical value is
.0005 Not .005 (.005would be 5 thousands)
ua-cam.com/video/VOZJhYkj3ms/v-deo.html
well explained thanks
ua-cam.com/video/VOZJhYkj3ms/v-deo.html
Great video, thanks for the help! Only one thing I’d like to point out is, if it’s graduated in half thousandths, it would measure out to .0005. .005” is 5 thousandths. So do you mean each tick on the dial is 5 thousandths of an inch or five ten thousands of an inch (.0005 which would be half a thousandth)
I may have misspoke... On the dial on the bore gauge, each tick is half a thousandth of an inch, or 0.0005"
@@vsvenson ahh gotchya ok no worries, just was confused that's all! Thank you for the video again!
Good Job! Couple things: did you need new bearings?? Many times, I hear, you don't ?? And, where did you buy/order that angle torque device?? Looks handy =) Thanks, youtheman=)
where did you get that digital torque angle device from? and are you happy with it?
I have a question about the bolt , can I used the old bolts to torque the crank down? or I have to use new ones but then I can re-used them to stay in engine, in other words, if I use new bolts to torque them down to check clearance , I can reuse them again to assemble the engine
If you have new bolts, use the old ones to torque down for measurements and save the new ones for the final assembly. But, generally, the crank bearing cap bolts can be reused.
I took my engine to a machine shop when he measured it he said the clearance I have it good maybe a little looser side within spec. But with plastigauge it's showing its too tight. Which would you side with?
I'd side with the shop. I also don't get very accurate measurements with with plastigauge - I think it's because you can't really put the plastigauge on all sides of the crankshaft at the same time. I bet the plastigauge is lifting up part of the crank, or maybe gravity is compressing it more, or it's somehow not sitting perfectly concentric in the bearing bore. But if you accurately measure both with real tools, then you have real numbers - not an approximation - to make a decision on the tolerances.
Van Svenson awesome thanks for the response
I am surprised you are not using a dial type precision torque wrench here.
I've had good luck with my digital one. It displays the final torque on it, and I've learned to be careful to not exceed the specs. :)
ua-cam.com/video/VOZJhYkj3ms/v-deo.html
How do you purchase the correct bearings if you don’t have any?
Once you know the size, you'll know if the standard ones will be within tolerance or if you need to have a machine shop grind the journals down for an "oversized" bearing.
Is a digital caliper a good substitute for a micrometer?
A substitute? No - a digital caliper really has a resolution down to 0.001" where a micrometer has a resolution down to 0.0001". But, hey, if it's all you have, a digital caliper is better than nothing!
@@vsvenson yeah micrometers all I can afford because of trumps incompetence
Nice job scoring it BOZO
Why not plastigauge ?, Ik think that's
more precise....
Greats Alexander
It's not
One revolution is not .25 it’s .025 that’s a big difference!
dude that's a porsche 944 isn't it? (perhaps a 924?)
Oh yeah... I have several 944s...
@@vsvenson what? :0 can I please have one? :D
What dial bore gauge are you using (Mfg & model) ?
It's this one: www.mscdirect.com/product/details/80788458
Put the mic in a vise so you get both up and down too!
ua-cam.com/video/VOZJhYkj3ms/v-deo.html
Why not plastc gauge ?
I Think that's more accurate .,
Dear regards Alexander
Plastigauge is a valid way to measure, but I've always found this method more precise. I've tried plastigauge on the same surfaces several times in a row and had small variations.
@@vsvenson alright , il onderstand, thanks you tot your answer, greetz Alexander
Cant hear nothing ur saying
Learn to use to "ZOOM" feature on the camera. Thanks.
This is ridiculous. Get a set of calipers to measure things instead of holding that expensive bore gauge up a mile above what you're working on
a set of calipers are actually more inaccurate than a bore gauge