Pretty good job If you want to see if the valve mechanically works well connect the pins 1 and 5 of the valve ,with the battery and you have to hear the valves on- off.
Is it possible to open the top part of the egr valve? The black plastic bit - is it possible to open it and lubricate without taking the complete egr valve of the engine? Thank you in advance!
Thank you, did you drain the coolant beforehand or just top it up after? Can you replace the valve with a new one using this process? I’ve heard you need to reprogram the ECU if you do.
Thanks for video, followed it apart from forgetting bowl to catch coolant, so not too bad as it’s the most I’ve ever done in the car, I got light back on after a week, sent pic of codes to mechanic whose too full up with work to do it but he says take it off, activate it with power probe to activate the plunger to clean that, would you know how to do that? Would be a nice follow up video as I can’t find anything online
Thought the idea was to clean plug and seat of the vave. Dont see how cleaning the chamber is going to accomplish to much. When the device is off the car, the valve is shut. Would think that by removing the solenoid electrical part the plug may come out off the valve allowing the plug and seat to be cleaned. Any body else taken it a step further?
I didn't torque them. I tightened them without over-tightening as the bolts are aluminum so would break pretty easily. Remember to tighten them like you would a wheel, using the rule of opposites, this creates an even seal. (eg, Top Left, Bottom Right, Top Right to Bottom Left).
My Corsa's got error P1405, just took my EGR valve off and cleaned the heck out of it. Still not sure if that'll fix my problem though, as it wasn't *that* dirty, like not properly clogged. So I'm debating whether I should just get a new EGR valve altogether maybe? I guess I'll give all the pipes a good cleaning tomorrow, as you suggested to that other guy. I guess my coolant level was quite low, so that could also just be the issue I guess? Thanks for the explanation, great video!
in how many km do you suggest to clean the egr? I have 300000 km in my corsa c and have never clean it. The time has come? And after clean before put in , can i give 12v dc to see if it's activating?
Yep, 300,000 km is definitely a good time to give it a clean. You can only test it once it's back together because the coolant has to flow through. Don't forget to bleed the coolant to get the bubbles out once you add more to top it off or the engine will have problems getting to temperature and keeping the necessary parts cool.
I got a P1405 fault code, took the EGR off and cleaned it, still getting the code. Recommendations, should I do the job again, try to clean it better? Should I buy a new EGR valve? Got one off ebay for £15 a year ago and done 30k miles since, seems viable. Or an EGR delete? Can get a blanking plate for £5 off ebay. Thanks.
I'd give the EGR another going over making sure that you also clean the manifold connection and the exhaust pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold. Make sure when you're tightening it back on you use the process I mention as it reduces the risk of leaks. If you are still getting the issue don't forget to check the coolant pipe that is going to the EGR, and that you have enough coolant in the expansion tank because while it doesn't seem at first a connected issue I tend to find that some problems happen further up or down the plumbing than where the error code states it is, if that makes sense. For the sake of £15 it certainly isnt a bad idea to get a replacement EGR and leave it in a spares box just in case. As for deleting, i think it's always better to perform a remap before deleting, but i think in this case, spares are so cheap you are just throwing good money after bad. Keep it OG :) HAve you also looked into cleaning the throttle control valve? You might find that may have something to do with it. I took it off this car and it was caked with 18 years of oil and sludge. It made a huge difference to the performance of the car. Anyway, I hope this helped somewhat.
A tapping noise when cold would probably be the chain (as these use a timing chain rather than a belt). Check how much oil you have and if you haven't changed the oil for a while take some time out to get it done. It's an easy job and it goes a long way toward extending the life of a chain. Tapping noises that disappear soon after the car has started tend to be caused by low or old oil, they can also be caused by the car not having been started for some time as the oil sinks to the bottom of the engine and then has to have a few revolutions for the oil to get back up to the top. Either way the tapping should not be constant. A well maintained 1.0 or 1.2 engine should sound like a purring sewing machine if that helps :)
@@youtubeshowedmehow7546 the noise does go away when the engine warms up it’s really bad when started from cold but I’ve heard that if the chain was bad my car would struggle to start and lack power but it doesn’t miss a beat is there anything else it could be?
@@dexietyy7922 if it goes away when the engine warms up then the first place i would look is definitely the oil. When was the last time you checked it and changed it? If you have done both very recently then the next thing to look at is the chain itself. The tensioners on them do loosen over time and need to be replaced. If the car is over 100k in miles then it could be that.
@@youtubeshowedmehow7546 it’s on 78k I will have to take the rocker cover off and have a look the sound seems to be coming from the left side of the engine is the tensioner replaceable without doing the whole chain?
Have bought 3 cars from Noreservecarsreading and have had some great cars. Last one was a Subaru Forester XT. Had a few minor issues, but GREAT garage to deal with
My partner's Corsa is idling badly and showing an EGR fault so this is just what I needed, thank you
Pretty good job
If you want to see if the valve mechanically works well connect the pins 1 and 5 of the valve ,with the battery and you have to hear the valves on- off.
Bro i pin 1 e 5 quali sono precisamente? cioè il positivo e il negativo......
What about the coolant? Did you drain all the coolant from the engine?
loved it! can't wait to do this myself and can't wait to see the rest of your videos on this engine :)
Is it possible to open the top part of the egr valve? The black plastic bit - is it possible to open it and lubricate without taking the complete egr valve of the engine?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you, did you drain the coolant beforehand or just top it up after? Can you replace the valve with a new one using this process? I’ve heard you need to reprogram the ECU if you do.
Thanks for video, followed it apart from forgetting bowl to catch coolant, so not too bad as it’s the most I’ve ever done in the car, I got light back on after a week, sent pic of codes to mechanic whose too full up with work to do it but he says take it off, activate it with power probe to activate the plunger to clean that, would you know how to do that? Would be a nice follow up video as I can’t find anything online
Thanks mate! Done! Shame I found a wee lump of metal holding my one open 🤢🤢🤮
Is this on a petrol?
Thought the idea was to clean plug and seat of the vave. Dont see how cleaning the chamber is going to accomplish to much. When the device is off the car, the valve is shut. Would think that by removing the solenoid electrical part the plug may come out off the valve allowing the plug and seat to be cleaned. Any body else taken it a step further?
What product did you use @ 12:30 ?
Good video I cleaned mines watching your video so many thanks, u bought the car for £150 did u say
Thankyou that was really helpful
Great job.
What extension sizes did you use I have no idea how to get into the tight space
use ratchet wrench Socket 1/4 with a small extension 1/4
Best video about cleaning this egr. what torque do you need for the bolts?
I didn't torque them. I tightened them without over-tightening as the bolts are aluminum so would break pretty easily. Remember to tighten them like you would a wheel, using the rule of opposites, this creates an even seal. (eg, Top Left, Bottom Right, Top Right to Bottom Left).
@@youtubeshowedmehow7546 just replaced the EGR, following your tip, rule of opposites. And the error disappeared, wohoo.
@@inikol BRILLIANT!! Well done buddy.
Can you tell me if this is a corsa D?
@@TaylorsMirfield It is a C but i think the D uses the same EGR
buddy.
What are the symptoms of this?
My Corsa's got error P1405, just took my EGR valve off and cleaned the heck out of it. Still not sure if that'll fix my problem though, as it wasn't *that* dirty, like not properly clogged. So I'm debating whether I should just get a new EGR valve altogether maybe? I guess I'll give all the pipes a good cleaning tomorrow, as you suggested to that other guy. I guess my coolant level was quite low, so that could also just be the issue I guess?
Thanks for the explanation, great video!
Помогло ?
@@AsTikh it did fix the problem. Car ran brilliantly after, though I did sell it not much later. Never had many problems with it, excellent car.
@@Hippownage спасибо за ответ ,у меня корса С 1.0 думаю поменять на новый читка не помогла .Диагностика показывает на неисправность егр
@@HippownageDid you replaced a new EGR or use old EGR clean it only?
@ I just cleaned it in a sink with a toothbrush lol. It worked perfectly after.
in how many km do you suggest to clean the egr? I have 300000 km in my corsa c and have never clean it. The time has come?
And after clean before put in , can i give 12v dc to see if it's activating?
Yep, 300,000 km is definitely a good time to give it a clean. You can only test it once it's back together because the coolant has to flow through. Don't forget to bleed the coolant to get the bubbles out once you add more to top it off or the engine will have problems getting to temperature and keeping the necessary parts cool.
I got a P1405 fault code, took the EGR off and cleaned it, still getting the code.
Recommendations, should I do the job again, try to clean it better?
Should I buy a new EGR valve? Got one off ebay for £15 a year ago and done 30k miles since, seems viable.
Or an EGR delete? Can get a blanking plate for £5 off ebay.
Thanks.
I'd give the EGR another going over making sure that you also clean the manifold connection and the exhaust pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold. Make sure when you're tightening it back on you use the process I mention as it reduces the risk of leaks.
If you are still getting the issue don't forget to check the coolant pipe that is going to the EGR, and that you have enough coolant in the expansion tank because while it doesn't seem at first a connected issue I tend to find that some problems happen further up or down the plumbing than where the error code states it is, if that makes sense.
For the sake of £15 it certainly isnt a bad idea to get a replacement EGR and leave it in a spares box just in case.
As for deleting, i think it's always better to perform a remap before deleting, but i think in this case, spares are so cheap you are just throwing good money after bad. Keep it OG :)
HAve you also looked into cleaning the throttle control valve? You might find that may have something to do with it. I took it off this car and it was caked with 18 years of oil and sludge. It made a huge difference to the performance of the car.
Anyway, I hope this helped somewhat.
Hi. I have the same problem. I replaced the egr with a brand new one and I am still getting the code. Did you find a solution that worked for you?
@@martinnrhave6832 you need to plug in computer and reset then if it's working fine error will be off
Good job, thank you so much
You're welcome :)
If this was bad would it cause a tapping/knocking noise when cold? Mine looks pretty corroded
A tapping noise when cold would probably be the chain (as these use a timing chain rather than a belt). Check how much oil you have and if you haven't changed the oil for a while take some time out to get it done. It's an easy job and it goes a long way toward extending the life of a chain. Tapping noises that disappear soon after the car has started tend to be caused by low or old oil, they can also be caused by the car not having been started for some time as the oil sinks to the bottom of the engine and then has to have a few revolutions for the oil to get back up to the top. Either way the tapping should not be constant. A well maintained 1.0 or 1.2 engine should sound like a purring sewing machine if that helps :)
@@youtubeshowedmehow7546 the noise does go away when the engine warms up it’s really bad when started from cold but I’ve heard that if the chain was bad my car would struggle to start and lack power but it doesn’t miss a beat is there anything else it could be?
@@youtubeshowedmehow7546 I’ve changed the oil twice in 2 months and it’s still the same :(
@@dexietyy7922 if it goes away when the engine warms up then the first place i would look is definitely the oil. When was the last time you checked it and changed it? If you have done both very recently then the next thing to look at is the chain itself. The tensioners on them do loosen over time and need to be replaced. If the car is over 100k in miles then it could be that.
@@youtubeshowedmehow7546 it’s on 78k I will have to take the rocker cover off and have a look the sound seems to be coming from the left side of the engine is the tensioner replaceable without doing the whole chain?
Have bought 3 cars from Noreservecarsreading and have had some great cars. Last one was a Subaru Forester XT. Had a few minor issues, but GREAT garage to deal with
They are a nuisance mines giving me problems I’ve decided to buy a new one
Feed cat
waste of time
Opel is shit, not a car
In your opinion.Than what is a car?
Don't ask a Dem. They can't even tell you what a woman is or a man. Baldrick would do better.
Opel rules 💪🏻
Лучше на Опеле чем на вазе😢😂
Фольцваген 👍