There's an advantage that you didn't speak of. Using an outside air vent causes the heat from the stove to 'pressurize' the room, which then 'pushes' against all the leakage spots, keeping the cold air from entering. You could use the pressure differential to direct warm air to a back bedroom by 'cracking' a window there. Do a smoke test and see. @@
@@larrythompson2967 I suppose the theory is that as the ambient temperature in the home is greater than that outdoors, the draft through gaps is reversed. It would be interesting to walk around a home with a FLIR heat camera to see if the idea has merit.
Great viedo. We were told by the wood stove company our problem was that it needed an air intake kit. After watching your video, we realized we have mostly all we need here. Thank you.
thanks Yet we have a wood burning furnace in our basement. I was told that we need more outside air in order for the wood to burn. Naturally we have flue pipe.
One one winter after taking out the Siegler oil fired heater that previously used the walled up fireplace to exhaust combustion gases. My mom started a fire in the fireplace and then we found out how badly the house leaked air. While the fireplace was warm cold drafts from all over the house were flowing along the floor to the fireplace. The oil fired heater used forced air to blow unheated air through a firebox and out the heater floor vent. The stove pipe had some kind of inlet damper that would regulate the amount of air to enter to get a good draft going up the stovepipe and would oftentimes provide a lull you to sleep sound as the damper door would with regularity make that tapping sound.
I did this to a 84 lopi by creating a extension for the 2" x4" intake openings Extended the intake to clear the bottom air motor feeds forb around the firebox [ its an insert ] Oh what a difference in this drafty old farm house. Be sure to get the dryer vent inlet that doesnt have flaps, or you wont draw air
We owned a Thelin-Thompson wood stove, inside was a "J" tube which was connected to outside air. I could burn 1-2 cords of Lodgepole pine before having to remove the ash. The "J" tube was in effect like a steel coke furnace super-heating the cold air so that "HOT" air feed the fire and it worked great.
I understand that having a ventilation system would be good, but I can't make holes in the wall behind my stove because it's made of fire-resistant bricks. However, I've decided to make use of a window located slightly higher than the stove, measuring around 130 by 100 centimeters. During winter, the entire window is shielded for insulation. The air between the window and the insulation shield gradually cools, and the cold air flows downward. To address this, I've directed this cold air accumulation into a flexible pipe with a 10-centimeter diameter, releasing it behind the wood stove. To monitor the airflow, I've attached wind streamers to the end of the pipe for visual confirmation. Additionally, since the insulation shield on the window is flexible, I can also open and close the window. Depending on the weather and temperature, I sometimes leave the window slightly open by about 1 to 2 millimeters.
I will be installing my fresh air intake tomorrow, only flaw I see in yours is the outside dryer vent. It is closed unless air is pushing out. Just saying as an appliance business owner lol. Nothing with flaps.
Yes, this is what I noticed about the video too. A standard dryer vent would have to be modified and remove the flap and add a screen to keep out critters.
Easy peezy installation fella. I will have to do that to my stove. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year too. And a many more for you and me. Peace vf
It is really simple really. For every cubic foot of air that goes up your flue or chimney, a cubic foot of air is pulled through cracks and gaps around your house. So unless you provide a way for air to enter the stove directly from the outside, it will pull that freezing air into the house from all over the house which effectively cools everywhere in the house. And if the house is new and really tightly insulated, the woodstove will not draw enough air to even work at all. I don't know why this is so misunderstood.
Missing some information. Outside air has fallen out of favor after more thorough analysis. 1st missing piece is that your cold outside air is cooling your stove so that’s heat not going into your home. It ends up being a net 0 of pulling air from other leakage/drafts in the house. They also found outside weather could have alot of negative effects the most severe having wind push down the chimney and having your fire reverse and go out your cold air intake starting a fire
I've never seen a house, camp or any other enclosure tight enough that it restricted air supply to a wood stove, but I've only been burning wood for 60 years in 5 different houses and numerous other camps, cottages. Don't believe what some Engineers say, and, yes I am an Engineer. There are many other reason why a wood burning appliance won't burn properly which have a much greater effect.
Extremely niave comment. My wood stove is struggling for air in a 1960's home. There are formulas for how many btu appliances put out and how many Sq ft you need for an appliance to breath. My father is a license plumber and holds heating licenses. Ran his own business for 20 years and is a teacher in the trade. He warned me it was going to be an issue. This is 100% something that can happen.
hello, I have a tin fireplace and it has vermiculite inside, wouldn't it give and retain heat longer if I replaced it with chamotte? I understood that vermiculite has an insulating role.
I dont have one of these. Just a traditional masonry fireplace. It smokes inside even after i get s good draft going. Once i crack the door that all goes away. Unfortunately it its -10 and we lose power that isnt realistic. Im looking inti doing something like this for my fireplace to see id that helps
Question: Could you take the fresh air from the outer layer of the roof above? The air gap between the outer roof and the insulation… Or am i thinking in the wrong direction here?
You certainly could do it but it’s not the best option. Unless you have your interior walls and ceiling perfectly air sealed, the vent will still be gathering your pre-heated interior air. Essentially you would be creating a mini vacuum in that air space and houses are not really designed for that to be a benefit. If you have sufficient exterior venting in that space I could see if working. I hope that helps a little.
You don’t need a fresh air intake if you live in a drafty home. Sure, it’s taking some of the warm air from inside but, it really doesn’t make that much of a difference.
Two questions: why is the chimney not enough of a vent? in your opinion are wood stoves safe to use in an RV? for reference, we only have a chimney for air intake and door of wood stove isn't fully "sealed". How to prevent CO buildup in RV? Just install an air intake to stove? Sorry for lengthy question, I know this isn't Reddit.. 🙄🙈
The chimney has air and smoke going out not in. So it creates a draft which pulls air in. It will pull air in through any not perfectly sealed spots of the house. Like around doors, windows, outlets, around pipes where they go through the wall. So air has to get into the wood stove from somewhere other than the chimney because air only exists through the chimney. If there was no way for air to get into the stove then air might come in through the chimney but it would suck smoke in and would make the fire burn less efficiently and possibly fill the home with smoke
yes but how do you regulate the amount of air going into the stove? It seems like it would be hard to bank the stove and it would burn way too hot, consuming more wood
The stove controls it by the air intake controls. The outside air intake is ONLY to isolate the source of the air. DIRECT air is a better term. Outside air WILL come in to replace the air the stove consumes. Cold air replacing warm air near the stove. Without the direct intake, the warmest air in the room gets sucked into the stove.
@@davidallred2947 the air vent on the stove isn't going to control an additional 4 inch vent. that will need its own damper or some such. it's not addressed in this vid?
@@erikbender1 I'm not sure what you are missing. The stove will only consume air LET into the stove by the intake "port" mechanism of the stove. The stove "as is" will draw air from the room the stove is in. The air pull from that room will me replaced from other farther rooms and from door and window cracks. The air from those farther rooms will be replaced by air leaking in from outside. This causes cold air to pass through every room as it is drawn to stove making the stove work harder to keep the house warm... and failing at the extreme distances. The fresh / outside air "duct" intake forces the consumed air to only come from outside directly, because "it is the closest air available". It doesn't even HAVE to be sealed. It can simply be a 4" hole drilled in the floor under or near the stove. Sealed is ideal, obviously.
This is how I brought in out side air that I pre heated and replaced the inside air with fresh outside air. I dont agree with using cold out side air directly into your fire box, yes it will burn hotter but it will also burn faster. I wanted a longer burn time that was consistent so I opted to let it breath room temp air and it works awesome. ua-cam.com/video/9g1wRjU4uyQ/v-deo.htmlsi=UR2UCYPh768jA-jg
@@outthereinit if you say but ill recommend you to specifie to the people listening ur video cuz if i do same with my setup its gonna get hot and ill be intoxicated
Game changer add on to my PE Neo 1.6.- warmer feet, no draughts from the older end of the house. Well worth the effort!
There's an advantage that you didn't speak of. Using an outside air vent causes the heat from the stove to 'pressurize' the room, which then 'pushes' against all the leakage spots, keeping the cold air from entering. You could use the pressure differential to direct warm air to a back bedroom by 'cracking' a window there. Do a smoke test and see. @@
Interesting never would of thought about the pressure temperature relationship
In order for that to happen, I would think that your chimney would need to be blocked. The whole purpose of the intake vent is for combustion air.
@@larrythompson2967 I suppose the theory is that as the ambient temperature in the home is greater than that outdoors, the draft through gaps is reversed. It would be interesting to walk around a home with a FLIR heat camera to see if the idea has merit.
@@ChrisKellyestbut if warm air kept leaving the room, warmer smoke/gas would escape from the stove into the room 💀
Good tip on using the short coupler to attach flex pipe to stove!
Great viedo. We were told by the wood stove company our problem was that it needed an air intake kit. After watching your video, we realized we have mostly all we need here. Thank you.
thanks Yet we have a wood burning furnace in our basement. I was told that we need more outside air in order for the wood to burn. Naturally we have flue pipe.
One one winter after taking out the Siegler oil fired heater that previously used the walled up fireplace to exhaust combustion gases. My mom started a fire in the fireplace and then we found out how badly the house leaked air. While the fireplace was warm cold drafts from all over the house were flowing along the floor to the fireplace.
The oil fired heater used forced air to blow unheated air through a firebox and out the heater floor vent. The stove pipe had some kind of inlet damper that would regulate the amount of air to enter to get a good draft going up the stovepipe and would oftentimes provide a lull you to sleep sound as the damper door would with regularity make that tapping sound.
I did this to a 84 lopi by creating a extension for the 2" x4" intake openings
Extended the intake to clear the bottom air motor feeds forb around the firebox
[ its an insert ]
Oh what a difference in this drafty old farm house.
Be sure to get the dryer vent inlet that doesnt have flaps, or you wont draw air
We owned a Thelin-Thompson wood stove, inside was a "J" tube which was connected to outside air. I could burn 1-2 cords of Lodgepole pine before having to remove the ash. The "J" tube was in effect like a steel coke furnace super-heating the cold air so that "HOT" air feed the fire and it worked great.
I understand that having a ventilation system would be good, but I can't make holes in the wall behind my stove because it's made of fire-resistant bricks.
However, I've decided to make use of a window located slightly higher than the stove, measuring around 130 by 100 centimeters.
During winter, the entire window is shielded for insulation. The air between the window and the insulation shield gradually cools, and the cold air flows downward.
To address this, I've directed this cold air accumulation into a flexible pipe with a 10-centimeter diameter, releasing it behind the wood stove. To monitor the airflow, I've attached wind streamers to the end of the pipe for visual confirmation.
Additionally, since the insulation shield on the window is flexible, I can also open and close the window. Depending on the weather and temperature, I sometimes leave the window slightly open by about 1 to 2 millimeters.
Very good info👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻thank you......would it be useful to fit a regulator on the outside air inlet so a as to control burn rate????......
I will be installing my fresh air intake tomorrow, only flaw I see in yours is the outside dryer vent. It is closed unless air is pushing out. Just saying as an appliance business owner lol. Nothing with flaps.
Not a bad insight. I put a screw into my flap which keeps it open. I may have failed to mention that in the video.
Yes, this is what I noticed about the video too. A standard dryer vent would have to be modified and remove the flap and add a screen to keep out critters.
Easy peezy installation fella. I will have to do that to my stove.
Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year too. And a many more for you and me. Peace vf
Depends on type of construction in a home.
Also condensation can be an issue
It is really simple really. For every cubic foot of air that goes up your flue or chimney, a cubic foot of air is pulled through cracks and gaps around your house. So unless you provide a way for air to enter the stove directly from the outside, it will pull that freezing air into the house from all over the house which effectively cools everywhere in the house. And if the house is new and really tightly insulated, the woodstove will not draw enough air to even work at all. I don't know why this is so misunderstood.
Makes me miss winter in the woods!
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Missing some information. Outside air has fallen out of favor after more thorough analysis. 1st missing piece is that your cold outside air is cooling your stove so that’s heat not going into your home. It ends up being a net 0 of pulling air from other leakage/drafts in the house.
They also found outside weather could have alot of negative effects the most severe having wind push down the chimney and having your fire reverse and go out your cold air intake starting a fire
Thanks man I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I thought I needed a specifiv type of kit! Thanks again!!
I've never seen a house, camp or any other enclosure tight enough that it restricted air supply to a wood stove, but I've only been burning wood for 60 years in 5 different houses and numerous other camps, cottages. Don't believe what some Engineers say, and, yes I am an Engineer. There are many other reason why a wood burning appliance won't burn properly which have a much greater effect.
I was burning for only one year when I experienced a wood stove starving for air.
Dont furnaces get their air from inside the house via return air vents in all the rooms? Thats how my house is set up.
@@hubster4477You aren’t understanding how a furnace works.
blower air yes combustion air no, at least on a high efficient furnace
@@hubster4477
Extremely niave comment. My wood stove is struggling for air in a 1960's home. There are formulas for how many btu appliances put out and how many Sq ft you need for an appliance to breath. My father is a license plumber and holds heating licenses. Ran his own business for 20 years and is a teacher in the trade. He warned me it was going to be an issue. This is 100% something that can happen.
Probably want to add a way to "throttle" the intake air so as not to burn wood way faster then just wide open...
Right, I am thinking the same thing. 4 inches of air flow would melt my stove!
Pictorially, show the vent, through a timber. Sharp square cut gap. Just angle the cut to easy the bend, through , less chance of splits.
hello, I have a tin fireplace and it has vermiculite inside, wouldn't it give and retain heat longer if I replaced it with chamotte? I understood that vermiculite has an insulating role.
I have a wood stove with pipe/flue to outside. With air intake at bottom of stove. Should it smoke?
I dont have one of these. Just a traditional masonry fireplace. It smokes inside even after i get s good draft going. Once i crack the door that all goes away. Unfortunately it its -10 and we lose power that isnt realistic. Im looking inti doing something like this for my fireplace to see id that helps
Won't a unit fan draw air from the house rooms ? There by minimize the advantage of a fresh air intake ?
I hope I'm wrong.
Thanks for the video
i just got a stove with one of these openings on the back,can i can it and is it safe to cap it?
Question:
Could you take the fresh air from the outer layer of the roof above?
The air gap between the outer roof and the insulation…
Or am i thinking in the wrong direction here?
You certainly could do it but it’s not the best option. Unless you have your interior walls and ceiling perfectly air sealed, the vent will still be gathering your pre-heated interior air. Essentially you would be creating a mini vacuum in that air space and houses are not really designed for that to be a benefit. If you have sufficient exterior venting in that space I could see if working. I hope that helps a little.
You don’t need a fresh air intake if you live in a drafty home. Sure, it’s taking some of the warm air from inside but, it really doesn’t make that much of a difference.
Dude, come to my house and vent my stove, please! Have a horrible back draft problem, hoping this will fix it!
Then why no wood stove has more than a hole?
Maybe a passive net zero house, but I leave my door cracked anyway lol
Two questions: why is the chimney not enough of a vent? in your opinion are wood stoves safe to use in an RV? for reference, we only have a chimney for air intake and door of wood stove isn't fully "sealed". How to prevent CO buildup in RV? Just install an air intake to stove? Sorry for lengthy question, I know this isn't Reddit.. 🙄🙈
The chimney has air and smoke going out not in. So it creates a draft which pulls air in. It will pull air in through any not perfectly sealed spots of the house. Like around doors, windows, outlets, around pipes where they go through the wall. So air has to get into the wood stove from somewhere other than the chimney because air only exists through the chimney. If there was no way for air to get into the stove then air might come in through the chimney but it would suck smoke in and would make the fire burn less efficiently and possibly fill the home with smoke
Trouble with mine it's in a existing brick fireplace 😞
yes but how do you regulate the amount of air going into the stove? It seems like it would be hard to bank the stove and it would burn way too hot, consuming more wood
The stove controls it by the air intake controls. The outside air intake is ONLY to isolate the source of the air. DIRECT air is a better term. Outside air WILL come in to replace the air the stove consumes. Cold air replacing warm air near the stove. Without the direct intake, the warmest air in the room gets sucked into the stove.
Air intake controls?
@@erikbender1 yes. Whatever lever on the stove... that controls the heat.
@@davidallred2947 the air vent on the stove isn't going to control an additional 4 inch vent. that will need its own damper or some such. it's not addressed in this vid?
@@erikbender1 I'm not sure what you are missing. The stove will only consume air LET into the stove by the intake "port" mechanism of the stove. The stove "as is" will draw air from the room the stove is in. The air pull from that room will me replaced from other farther rooms and from door and window cracks. The air from those farther rooms will be replaced by air leaking in from outside. This causes cold air to pass through every room as it is drawn to stove making the stove work harder to keep the house warm... and failing at the extreme distances. The fresh / outside air "duct" intake forces the consumed air to only come from outside directly, because "it is the closest air available".
It doesn't even HAVE to be sealed. It can simply be a 4" hole drilled in the floor under or near the stove. Sealed is ideal, obviously.
Did your landlord yell at you for making the wrong hole the first time ? lol
Covered it with trim!
Unless you're really desperate to keep heat inside your house this is unnecessary. Besides a stove is a great way to ventilate your house of stale air
The ventilation issue is actually the only reason I can think of to not install the air intake vent.
This is how I brought in out side air that I pre heated and replaced the inside air with fresh outside air.
I dont agree with using cold out side air directly into your fire box, yes it will burn hotter but it will also burn faster. I wanted a longer burn time that was consistent so I opted to let it breath room temp air and it works awesome.
ua-cam.com/video/9g1wRjU4uyQ/v-deo.htmlsi=UR2UCYPh768jA-jg
There is less oxygen in winter than summer.
I dont need nottin
The landlords will be happy with your poor workmanship.
Dude all material you use are toxic when they are under heat😂😂😂😂
Dude, none of the materials will ever be under heat- only cold air.
@@outthereinit 4 real you think it stay cold ?
@@outthereinit if you say but ill recommend you to specifie to the people listening ur video cuz if i do same with my setup its gonna get hot and ill be intoxicated