Legally Backfeeding your generator through your existing homes electrical panel! Using an Interlock!
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Notice! When using tandem breakers, your panel must be designed to use them and you must never exceed the panels rating for the total number of circuits. When in doubt, hire an electrician!
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Notice! When using tandem circuit breakers, your panel must be designed to use them and you must never exceed the panels rating for the total number of circuits. When in doubt, hire an electrician!
Great video, as I sit here without power in my house, 30 degrees outside, an 8000 watt welder generator, and a 5500 watt RV generator, and I had plans to do this but never bought the parts to do it.🤣
nice intro to the flow of current and backfeeding for newbies like myself. simple and effective. Thank you
Don't tell my County Engineers or insurance company, but I've been doing this for years (we lose power frequently) without an interlock or a transfer switch, BEING VERY CAREFUL to not have the main breaker & the generator breaker both on at the same time while the generator is plugged in. I have a 240V plug in my garage for my welder & use that plug & 50 amp breaker (in my main box) to feed my generator backwards into my house. An interlock would definitely be much safer, but would interfere with using my welder, I have no space left in my main box for a breaker dedicated to just my generator, & a transfer switch won't work well with my current generator & power needs.
My panel is on the opposite side of my shed and generator. It is also where my HVAC unit sits. I am considering adding a plug into the HVAC circuit. It feeds the HVAC 240 and I should be able to back feed into the box, right? I mean, it makes sense that it would. It's too expensive to pull wire all the way to the box if I have this already confidently wired.
As long as you LOCKED it, you're up to code:
702.5 Transfer Equipment (A) General
Transfer equipment shall be required for all standby systems subject to the requirements of this article and for which an electric utility supply is either the normal or standby source. . .
_Exception: Temporary connection of a portable generator without transfer equipment shall be permitted_ where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by a lockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supply conductors.
Qualified Persons: One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations.
Physically Isolated: Not readily accessible to persons unless special means for access are used.
Lockable Disconnecting Means: Where a disconnecting means is required to be lockable open elsewhere in this Code, it shall be capable of being locked in the open position.
@@cnewkirk7171 That's what I was wondering and I can't seem to find an answer.
I have an electric furnace that I don't use (only heat with wood stove) and wondered if I could tap into that breaker to back feed.
Good luck!
@@YouLookinAtMe-Bro I read what was posted yesterday to my query and it compares to what I was told recently from a retired electrician. As long as "I" lock out my main power I can wire into the HVAC line. That breaker will be back fed so it won't trip if needed, that breaker is now in the generator. But I won't kill anyone working on the line and I won't have to run extension cords all over the house and garage. Hahaha. Thanks all for the imput.
@@cnewkirk7171 Excellent! Good to hear that!
Be safe!
My house is old so is the panel I did not bother with interlock and installed transfer switch. One benefit of transfer switch is that you can know when utility power is back up right away without looking at neighbors house as circuits not connected to the generator can still be connected to utility.
Also lower risk of overloading generator as generator start with no load at all by default. This make it safer to use a lower wattage generator which runs longer on same fuel.
My last power outage last almost 20 hours and I ran a 3800 watt running watt generator without interruption on less than 4 gallon of gas. I was able to keep fridge, freezer, two sump pumps and gas furnace and heater running.It even powered a 1100watt moCeowave for 5 minute without issue. For cooking I used butane stoves and next time I might try to hook up a portable induction stove.
If I went with interlock and a more powerful generator I might be able to use the electric range but it is not essential as I have many camping stoves and outdoor grills and even a wood burning stove etc as backup anyway.
Best bet during an outage is use alternative fuels whenever possible, if only to reduce the load on the generator.
Two words you should not use. *Backfeeding* and *Stinger Cable* With the interlock, that is preventing anyone from 'backfeeding' unless the cover panel of off. Stinger cables always have the connotation of male plugs on both ends.
Otherwise - Spot on!
I have one of these and its sooo nice!!
This was my solution 20 years ago. I bought the smallest 220v generator that utilized an L14-30 (30A twist-loc). Converted it to Propane/NG. I keep all breakers on, you just need to be selective when using high load appliances (AC, Electric Dryer, Electric stove/oven etc.). Efficient and inexpensive way to have emerency backup power.
I just shut off all double breakers. I leave the rest on.
Thanks for the info. So, in order to get power to your house from a generator, you have to install a 50 Amp breaker to your main circuit box, from this 50A breaker, you hook up the wires to a special inlet box, from this inlet box, you hook up the cable directly to your 120/240 50 Amp connector, in the generator. When power from the utility company goes down, you go to the box, and switch off the main breaker there, in my box there is a 100 Amp breaker, and then you turn off all the other breakers as well. Then you switch ON the 50 Amp breaker you installed, connect the cable to the generator, turn the gen on, and only then, at the main box, you turn ON, ONLY the main appliances you want on, for instance the AC, etc. When power returns (you would have to find out on your own, when the power returns), you switch OFF the 50 Amp breaker, turn off the gen, unplug the cable from the inlet box, then you turn on all the breakers at the main circuit box.....is that it?
Yes
Simple, huh!
Those are the steps I follow. For me it's a lot of little breakers because I have a main panel and two sub-panels, but it's worth the effort to maintain power to critical appliances. As for finding out when power returns, for a long time I would leave the generator running shut off the 50 amp breaker, turn back on the main breaker (200 amp in my case) & see if there's power. Eventually I realized that my power meter (on the outside of the house) is digital, so when there's no power from 'the grid', there's nothing displayed on the meter & when there's something displaying on the meter, I know there's power coming in from 'the grid'. So now, once I'm running on the generator , I only have to interrupt power to whatever I have on in the house one time when I switch from the generator back to 'the grid'.
@@OldMysticFantasist
Reliance Controls
PowerBack - Model:THP108
UPC: 815181010553
*Utility Power Return Alert
Wish you would have actally used it in the video lol. Stinger cable... that is a nice way of putting it lol
"Comfort creatures"? I think we already have a name for them. ;-)
Some states like Louisiana don't allow homeowners to install an interlock. They want you to hire an electrician which can cost over $1500 for the two-hour job. Insane.
Well explained, Thank you.
Awesome Demo!
Yes, but an actual test run was missing?
A big differance in $$$$
Good explanation bud
I have a similar setup for my house. I'd rather this than a transfer switch!
How do people partially backfeed electricity in the case of using solar panels to reduce their drain from the grid?
Anyway to use this if you have two main panels feeding your house and you want to use circuits from both panels during an outage?
@@raymondgarafano8604 I have two main panels, Raymond.
i like this idea!
That's a nice looking set-up, simple yet effective. I may do something like that..? One question though, at 4:55, is that from a shotgun blast next to your receptacle? ha ha ha..
LOL I had never noticed those holes until I did this video! My guess is the previous owners had a hose reel mounted there. And even that makes no sense, as there isn't a water spigot near by!
Can this be applied for solar power applications as well?
I am using this same setup for my box. Choosing which breakers I wanna run with the amount of power my generator supplies, to me is a better option over a manual transfer switch! Which gives you only 6 breakers to choose from. My generator will handle lights and fridge and one 220 breaker @ a time! So I can make the choice to run one of my choice that a manual transfer would not allow! My heat pump is not a option so I flip that one off right off the bat! Still there will be some trial & error to see what combo’s will work. I did once bog down my generator so I said that won’t work. Plus the 50 amp breaker is the best option over a 30 amp. If your generator has that option get the most bang for your buck and use it!
This is weird ass comment
@@zorth42 Only to someone who doesn't understand...
Not all breakers provide protection in both directions but your generator should already be equiped with a breaker.
Can you give me an example of a breaker that doesn't work both ways?
@@1D10CRACY You CAN'T backfeed AFCI or GFCI circuit breakers. Anything listed with a line and load side has to (should) be installed that way.
Didn't think of GFCI circuits, without taking one apart and leaning how it works it makes sense! Thanks!
Interesting 👍
How can i connect my generator to my sub panel located in my garage and subfeed to my main panel in my basement?
You can't... Legally.
No interlock will shut off the main panel breaker when you open a breaker on the subpanel for your generator. The interlock works because the main breaker and generator breaker are next to each other in the same box allowing the generator breaker to open only when the main breaker is closed.
when we first moved in and bought our house in march 2021 we had an electrician swap out an old FPE stab lock panel with a new Square D with all new CAFCI and GFCI breakers. I also had him run a 50 ft length of 6/3 on a 50amp breaker with interlock out to my garage. At the time I thought I bough the right receptical but apparently I got like the type that would go on a shore power (outgoing) power post at RV park, it takes the same male 4 pin/blade type plug the generator does.
Is there any fundamental problem with gettin a cord like yours there and just putting the male end on it? or should I swap out the receptacle for the twist lock 50amp type?
The pannel you show on the video, is this your main pannel or sub pannel?
Based on the fact his panel has neutrals and grounds in the same neutral bar I'm going to guess main panel.
How do I know when the power comes back on?
We pay attention to our neighbors. ;)
I heard linemen wear gloves and treat a wire as it's live?
What generator are you running??
You can make an interlock plate easily. Use cereal box cardboard to tape a template together then trace and cut out your own custom $120 interlock kit.
Make sure you label everything for the next homeowner, assuming he/she will be dumber than yourself.
Does this way power both sides of the panel?
Without looking at your panel, I would guess yes.
@@1D10CRACY lol! Thank you!
Does it power the 240 well pump circuit too? Or just 120v circuits?
It's 240, if it will power your well pump or not, that just depends on it's power requirements.
Seriously! Just drop the lines men bit! Yes, not very safe! You will fry your genorater most likely before a lines men gets zapped! Seriously he's correct, turn of your main breaker. I won't go into detail on that because thiers multiple wire configurations. My question is why are there no videos with breakers made for people's so called suicide cords? Wouldn't be much of a suicide cord with a breaker in it. It would be more safe
If you didn’t shut off your main breaker and allowed your generator to back feed into the dark grid, wouldn’t that try to light up everyone in your neighborhood and overload your generator long before giving your lineman an enlightenment on a religious scale?
That is the point of the interlock, it will not allow you to back feed the grid.
@@1D10CRACY Definitely a good thing either way.
Some like me, back feed from a sub panel and a interlock kit is not possible. No one will arrest you either way.
The problem arises if something happens in your house burns down the insurance company won't cover it if you have some Mickey mouse back feed.
If that was the case I have an open spot at the bottom that I could hook up my breaker to for my generator but instead I'd rather get the interlock kit and have it done right just in case..
How does the interlock kit prevent a fire?
Just a thought here and am putting the question out, so if it's totally wrong to do this just let me know.... Have a nema 14/50 plug outside charging my F-150 EV Lightning. In the event of a power outage to the house could I said something like this up where I feed power back into my nema 14/50 EV plug from the on-board power system of the truck to the panel, like go in reverse. It has a 30AMP outlet in the bed.
@@mikefrey123 This is well debated on the F150 forums. You can not back feed from your truck to the house unless there is a transfer switch that separates the ground from the neutral. If you did this without the switch, it would keep tripping the circuit because you would have the ground and neutral bonded in 2 places: the truck and the house. The truck wont allow this and it's against all codes for safety purposes . You can only have the ground and neutral bonded in one place. It can be done with the right transfer switch as many on the forums have done. See the truck is like your main house panel where the neutral and ground are bonded. You can run extension cords from it no problem. Hope that helps.
@@fattysgarage1754 thanks for the details. Extension cords it is! :)
I am planing to do this on my house, but somehow confuse with this bonded or floating neutral generator types. With this system do I you need to use bonded or floating neutral generator ? My Firman 7500 is a bonded, should I modify the generator to the floating neutral ?
If you're connecting it to a house system, then you want it UNbonded at the generator. If not, the electricity will find its way back to the neutral bus of your service, which is bonded there to ground, so it has its choice of ways back to its source down the neutral line attached to the generator, OR through the ground through the chassis, through the generator-side bond and to the neutral. Or through YOU if you're part of that circuit. Un bonding it means the ONLY way back to neutral is through the neutral line you want. You MUST ground the chassis WELL though, (not to a pole in the dirt, run an ground line to a grounded piece somewhere, so that if it shorts within itself, there's an instant breaker trip when the current goes through the ground wires out to the service panel and back on that sole neutral path.
Problem for me is I want to backfeed the house via the detached garage. Doop!
you can but depending how far away it is you may experience a voltage drop. Closer to the panel the better.
702.5 Transfer Equipment (A) General
Transfer equipment shall be required for all standby systems subject to the requirements of this article and for which an electric utility supply is either the normal or standby source. . .
*Exception: Temporary connection of a portable generator without transfer equipment shall be permitted* where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by a lockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supply conductors.
Qualified Persons: One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations.
Physically Isolated: Not readily accessible to persons unless special means for access are used.
Lockable Disconnecting Means: Where a disconnecting means is required to be lockable open elsewhere in this Code, it shall be capable of being locked in the open position.
For those who want to know, a little more detail of that here:. iaeimagazine.org/2009/july2009/transfer-equipment-used-in-optional-standby-systems-for-commercial-applications-part-ii-transfer-equipment-options/
@@1D10CRACY There's a typo in that page, where it refers to 702.5 it is actually quoting 702.4 (the capacity codes).
Anyone have a link to a story about a lineman being electrocuted or harmed by a homeowner's generator connection?
If you’re insinuating that this cannot happen you’re wrong. Use your google skills and you will find numerous instances of this occurring.
Actually the more likely threat is your generator would be oveerloaded trying to feed the load of the grid, and when the grid power is restored your generator wouldnt play nice.
There is a video on UA-cam where the generator caught fire once utility power came on, the fire spread to a nearby rv and other things. I do not know the link but a search for generator backend should find it.
Or... You could just do what any normal person would do and use some extension cables. I know some may not find this ideal, but, it works and is safer. I am an electrician. Never liked interlocks as they can still be unsafe, especially for the dumb dumb pops out there that do not understand amperage overloads. The breakers do not always work and they find themselves with a fire or worse, an electrical wiring problem that causes them thousands in damages. Not a good idea for the average bear. Just get some lamps and some extension cables. I have a setup at my place that allows me to run the extension cables through the wall from the outside through a box with a lockable door. Much safer.
Normally people run extension cords because they have not or are not capable of installing an interlock. For safety reasons, I prefer to see the Interlock. The average "bear" has no idea how to rate the capacity of an extension cord and they like to run them through puddles and pinch them in doors. If the interlock is installed correctly, they are far safer than running extension cords. But if using extension cords is your preferred method, go for it! No worries! Everyone has their own opinions.