DIY - Making Spark Plug Cables - Revival Cycles Tech Talk
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2015
- Stefan walks through the process of assembling your own spark plug wires from scratch using the components included in our Revival Signature Spark Plug Wire Kit.
This Revival Signature Spark Plug Wire Kit is available for purchase on our website: shop.revivalcycles.com/reviva...
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#motonerd - Авто та транспорт
Thanks! Was just connecting cables to a coil and had never seen the screw on connection before. Thanks for confirming that I’m doing it right haha.
As usual your videos are clear concise and entertaining!
Love the fact you added the mangling to the video! Shows you don't take yourselves too seriously. What is 'the high-tension side'? Loved the intro to electrical systems video also! Great info, great audio and video. Simple, minimalist, non-glitzy. Keep up the great work!
The high tension side is the part that actually connects the coil to the spark plug. With an ignition coil there are actually two different coils of wire inside, one is called the primary, and this is what the low voltage (12V) flows through and what the ignition system controls. The secondary coil is the high tension side and has WAY more windings and much higher resistance due to the high number of windings. When the current flow in the primary winding stops abruptly it induces a massive voltage spike in the secondary coil which gets high enough to ionize the mixture between the spark plug electrodes and produce the spark.
Short answer: High tension = High voltage.
Just discovered your channel.
What a channel!
Thx for your explanations.
Greetings from Belgium
That is one sick beard dude!!!
I'm doing a col relocation so a spark plug cable install is needed; video helped clear a couple of doubts that I had. Thanks
Thumbs up from Biker's Garage 101!
PS: a little SOAP will help get that boot in.
Just found you guys a few days ago. Great channel and you guys are really kicking ass with useful info. Leave the mangled clips in. Great for the clip. Thanks and ill certainly be ordering up soon. Great vid on bike wiring also. #1. Thank you
Sco(€8\\ crytt H i
nice Video, well explained
Love the '10 minutes earlier'! I'm here to find out how to get access to one of those (epoxy-?) moulded coils on my strimmer while I wait (a month!) for a coil to come from China. Trying to test for continuity in it lead probing at different points along its length hoping to make a splice my probes have obviously murdered the inner wire --who knew it was so thin?? (immeasurably thin). Oh, well, it can't be done. Appreciated the point about not bending the core sharply over the insulation but letting it make a loop. Thanks.
Great video thanks!
Huge problem I just ran into. My spark plug wires are built into my coil pack. Is this a common thing or are they able to be replaced by yanking/unscrewing. I already bought $75 worth of spark plug wire to realize mine aren’t replaceable?
Great video...again. You guys know your business. THANKS.
I read the comment that asked about the plug wires on old UJMs that attach directly to the coils. Case in point, '81 GS850GX.
I was going to reattach new wires into the old coils since the coils are ok. But you don't recommend??
The replacement coils with wires are pricey. $500. !!
Any more discussion on this?
Two reasons not to just attach wires to old coils. First the old coils are OLD and they are a common source of problems/failures/gremlins, and they do wear out so even if they haven't failed yet, they will, someday. Second, the splice joint in the high tension side is less than ideal from a corrosion / conduction standpoint.
But the good news is that most of the time you don't need to use OEM coils, in fact, many times the aftermarket coils are far less expensive and far better build quality. Gotta remember the OEMs are always dealing with cost controls, and there are a ton of compromises to get the production bikes down to the target MSRP.
So if you want new coils, you really only need to get a set that have the same nominal primary resistance as the stock ones. This is usually between 1 to 5 ohms, and you can either measure the existing coils or look up the spec in a repair manual. Then just make sure you have the correct number of plug wire terminals, for example a 4 cylinder will frequently have two coils with twin plug leads, but a twin cylinder could have a single coil with two outputs or two single output coils. We like the dyna coils for most applications, they are reasonably priced and very well made. revivalcycles.com/search?q=dyna+coils
Awesome. Thanks!
I have a Fairbanks Morse magneto and am trying to figure out how to remove them from the cap for replacement. Any info would be greatly appreciated
Wouldn’t it be easier to slide the boots on the ends before stripping the wire ends?
If you had put the caps onto the wire first, then trim and crimp, it would have been a lot easier to slide the cap over the connectors.
It is not easier to do it that way. I went through and tried it both ways during the prep for that shoot, and the way it is demonstrated in this video is easier for me. The crimp fitting adds stiffness which makes it easier to push through the rubber boot, and it doesn't add much additional diameter.
But there is more than one way to skin the cat... so if its easier for you to crimp after installing the boot, then go for it.
@@RevivalCycles The Sneaky Trick: Slide the Rubber Cap onto the wire Before you start the rest of the assembly, ( Di-electric grease to help slide ) Put on the metal parts and crimp/solder, then slide the rubber cap back up over the connector. Use No-Alox or another conductive paste on the inside of the connector for longer life with less corrosion.
Got to say, your vids are excellent.
How come you are not using the NGK spark plug caps? Putting this type of cable on I am doing it for show and I would have thought the NGK caps would have been a better choice. Thoughts?
+Ano Mac Great question. The reason for not using the NGK plug cap is that our cables are suppression core which serves the same purpose as a suppression(NGK) cap, which serves to eliminate EMI.
Yeah but they are cool. And doubly suppressed one would think is not an entirely bad thing.
actually some motorcycles come stock with 5kohm resistor in sparkplugs, and another ~5kohm in sparkplug boots. I have no idea why so much suppression is needed. NGK makes non resistor boots LZEH for terminal types, and LZFH for screw on.
The simple resistor type spark plug, and spark plug cap, help with controlling EMI and RFI, but it really doesn't do very much to correct the issue. It is just the quick and easy way to try to partially deal with it. Also, resistance in the secondary side of an ignition system has negligible impact on spark energy, the concept of low resistance spark plug wires is erroneous marketing BS. The spiral wound core of these wires solve the problem by creating an electrical choke dissipating the resonant frequencies as a combination of the effect of the choke and the resistance.
The spark occurs due to very high voltages, and resistance only affects current flow. There is very little current flow in the secondary side of the ignition system. As long as there is a strong conduction path, it makes little difference what the resistance is. Many ignition system manufactures recommend, suppressor wires, AND resistor caps, AND resistor plugs. Resistance will also help your plugs last longer.
Now the primary side is a different story, the primary should have no added resistance and any energy loss on the primary will have an impact on the voltage produced in the secondary.
Check the resistance of OEM automotive suppressor wires and it is in the 20k-40k ohms per wire. And those systems seem to work just fine.
you guys know how to fix coil cables for a Xj550 yamaha 1981 maxim ?? as well ?
I'm not sure what type of coils the XJ550 has. If the wires are molded into the coil, it is a good idea to replace the entire coil, that is an indication that the coils are old and not particularly well manufactured. Also there is not a good way to repair that type of coil that has the wires molded in.
I have an 81 Honda GL500. It's got a dual coil. Where the wire connects to the coil there is a just the end of the wire and on the wire there's a threaded cap that threads onto to the coil. Inside the coil is just a pointed post. Do I just cut the wire without stripping the insulation off and slide the cable onto the post and then thread the cap on? Any help would be appreciated. A lot. Thanks.
That is an excelent question. These wires will work with this coil setup, but it does take a little fineness to get it right. The center of the wire core is non conductive, so you have to be certain that the screw tip goes to the side of the spiral wound core, between the core and the insulation. The best way I've found to do this is by carefully cutting out a small sliver of the insulation right next to the core and then folding the core over to the side. This way the screw tip will go off to the side of the core.
The whole purpose of doing this is to ensure that the screw makes contact with the outer spiral wound section of the core. If you just thread them in straight the screw tip goes into the very center non conducting part of the core.
Ya know, you'd think with the cx500 and GL500 being such popular cafe base bikes there would be a video if this. I gota set of Dynatek 7mm ultra hi temp silicone copper core wire. No when I look at the factory wire going into the boot for the plug it seems like the same thing. It looks like they did what you said. Cut halfway into the insulation and then just pressed the spike point into the tip of the cut wire end then slipped the boot over to make a tight fit so it won't pull out. I wish I could show you a pic of what I got. And if you think I should just mirror it to my new wires. Anyway I can get ahold a ya somehow?
Also as I was just looking at my plugs and the inside of the boots, do these plugs have no cap on them? Does the threaded post just snap into this brass screwed in tip inside the boot? Sorry for what seem like stupid questions for a motorcycle mechanic but I've never felt with coils and plugs etc like this.
Probably best to email techsupport@revivalcycles.com with some photos. There are several different types of plug caps and boots.
Will do. Thanks.
And I couldn't really see it, because the camera was too far away
Sorry about that, we are always trying to improve our setups, and up close detail shots are a little tricky. We'll try to do better on the new vids.
Lmao mangle the shit out of this. That's funny.
does the length of the wire matter?
Slightly, the wire length is not critical, but generally you want them as short as reasonable. There isn't much issue with running plug wires that are a few feet long, but I wouldn't want to mount coils way back under a tail cowl and have the plug wires run the full length of the bike.
Lol... put the boot on b4 u cut is ezr.
That doesn't really work with a 90 degree boot, you need the crimp complete before installing the boot
why wood you ever say your tool your selling wont work? WOW! OPPS.
Well, for one reason, we are truthful in our videos. A lot of people will only show you how great something works under one condition, and then you get it and it sucks. We will always be honest about how things work, and that tool is really intended for crimping the terminals, which it does pefectly in this video. The stripping feature is just a secondary convenience, and it is intended for standard wires, not cloth braided wires. Not only that, technically the tool did strip the cloth braided wire, it just didn't do it well enough for our standards.
@@RevivalCycles As a customer, i'm a big fan of truth.
put your boots in boiling water for a while
Good idea, that should make a big difference.