VW A4: 2.0L Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor G40 (P1338)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
4827 Kingsway
Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
EXOVCDS swag:
shop.spreadshi...
Rate, Comment, Share, Subscribe, Let the Ads play... I'm still paying off my tools!! Tool or Coffee & Donut Donations welcome at my website below!!
fkh161.ca/
Discuss this video in the Subscribed Members Forum:
exovcds.freefor...
Check out my Picture on on Instagram:
/ exovcds
#installationisinreverseofremoval #iusetools #idontjustreviewthem
When & Where Needed:
*** Raise & support the vehicle safely according to Manufacturer Jacking & Supporting Positions!!! ***
VW Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.vw.com
Audi Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.audiusa.com
VW Tools:
vw.snapon.com
Audi Tools:
audi.snapon.com
Definitely the only video that has proven to be informative enough for me to do this tomorrow on my Jetta. $1200 later.....
Thank you for watching! Let me know how it went!
Awesome information, I wish I would have watched it before I put the timing belt on and saw the cps sitting on the work bench!! Thanks for the videos!
With videos like these, you've solved many problems :), thanks a lot thomas!!! I hope the boss don't mind you filming these kind of videos lol.
Thank you and thank you for watching! So far... I'm in the clear with the boss. =)
At 8:30 the 10mm water pump bolt can not be accessed with the lower timing belt cover in place. Once the upper 13mm bolt is removed from the black metal plate (covering the cam sensor), the plate can be moved away from the engine to make room for removing the cam sensor, even though it is still attached at the water pump bolt.
Hello
Hello.
GREAT video! Exactly what I was looking for, thanks for posting. Question: I noticed you installed a Bosch sensor, which is probably the factory part. Would you consider aftermarket for this part? Like Delphi, for example.
Aftermarket is probably ok.
Thank you! So helpful...you totally saved the day...
Thank you for watching!
The camp shaft sensor is right behind the timing cause I just had brand new timing belt and water pump put on my car year ago wish change that to
Rotate the camshaft do that you can see the TDC mark on the pulley. That way the woodruff key will be on top. If it is on the bottom and you pull the pulley off, they key will fall down and you will never see it again.
Yes, it's always best to set the cam to TDC before removing the gear. Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS The zip ties and bungee cord trick is pure genius. Made the job simple.
Thank you, kind of you to say!
muy bien muy especifico gracias me fue de gran ayuda
Gracias por ver
No hay problema si quitas toda la polea del cigüeñas para instalar el sensor?
jesus, why the hell would they put that thing there
Hi Thomas - thanks for the video! I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0L with a P0343 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input) and engine will not rev past 3100RPM. I checked the voltage at the three pins and have a steady 5V on the left, steady 12.8V in the middle and 0.03V on the right. Does the steady 12.8V on the middle pin confirm the sensor itself is the culprit? TIA!
Yes... if it were working, your multimeter would show less than 12V because of the signal being a square wave (on / off 12V).
Thanks so much for the quick reply Thomas, much appreciated! ...a new cam sensor is on order. Cheers :)
Thomas EXOVCDS Hola disculpa espero me puedas ayudar tengo un jetta 2005 automatico que no me pasa de las 3000 revoluciones y manda falla en sensor árbol de levas . Que me recomiendas ? cambiarlo ?
Hey there, very late reply but when you said that the signal wire should read less than 12v, about how much less? (pretty electronically illiterate here lol) Have a 2004 Jetta 2.0 that will crank, gets fuel and spark, but won't start. Suspecting either CPS (even though it won't start?), timing belt (not broken), or ECU (no idea how to rule this out lol)
Garcia Banda oye amigo como solucionaste tu problema de que no pasaba de las 3000 rmp tengo un problema similar con un beetle 2001 no pasa de las 3000 y me saca código del cmp crees que me puedas ayudar
Great videos. I am about to do the timing belt, water pump and cam position sensor on my AVH. would you recommend replacing the cam and crank seals if they are NOT leaking just for good measure, or should they just be left alone?
+Chris Gelder It would make sense to replace them at the same time as the other components. If they look fine, they will probably last until the next belt service. I once changed a non leaking seal on my BMW and the new seal would not seal.... went through 2 seals until I gave up and installed a speedy sleeve. The crank journal was worn, so the new seal could not seal because it could not conform to the shape of the worn journal like the old seal did. So basically trying to prevent a future seal leak (by replacing a seal) I made things worse. Now I only replace seals that have signs of leakage.
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks for commenting back! I ended up changing the cam seal because it was leaking but left the crank seal alone. quick question, is it normal for the timing belt tensioner adjustment "arrow" to bounce around when the car is running? just finished up the job and checked the tension while running and the adjustment arrow is kind of vibrating, for lack of a better word. it doesn't seem to change the actual tension though.. the nut is a tight as I can get it. thanks for helping the world with these videos, you do great work!
Chris Gelder Yes, some bouncing is normal... sometimes they barely move. It's the power pulses from ignition and then the lack of power pulse that causes the bounce / wiggle. As the belt stretches / wears, it becomes loose and you will see the bounce / wiggle be a bit more pronounced.
Great diagnosis and explanation, Thomas. How is the back doing?
+wysetech2000 It's on & off pain wise since being back at work the last two + weeks. Definitely not as bad as it was during the start of my vacation, but enough to be frustrating. Thanks for dropping by my channel & asking!
+Thomas EXOVCDS I know how it is. I have a bad back and a torn up shoulder that I deal with.
Hi Thomas. Great video. Is the counter tool a generic one or a specific VW/Audi tool? Can you recommend which one?
This one is generic: www.idparts.com/camshaft-sprocket-counterhold-tool-p-4760.html
Thank you!
You're welcome... and I meant the one I'm using is generic. The link is to a similar generic product. I'm sure you probably understood what I meant, just thought I'd clarify. =)
Thanks
Thank you for watching! Here's a video on how you can check it with a multimeter:
ua-cam.com/video/A6XV5x0504c/v-deo.html
Hi thomas, i have a Golf 2002 2.0L... is not passing 3rpm and just running 1st and 2nd shift.
You can check your cam sensor with a multimeter... like this:
ua-cam.com/video/A6XV5x0504c/v-deo.html
Let me know what your results are.
Hello Thomas,
I've been working on my dauhters 2000 beetle 2.0L for some time now. Started with water pump then head gasket, coil pack and most recently valve stem seal per recomendation. As I was pulling off the camshaft without removing the sprocket I heard a crack. when I removed the camshaft I noticed tbat I had broken the camshaft sensor. After all the work was done I replaced it with one I gao from the junkyard, I checked the numbers stamped on it and they all matched. Car starts but turns off after a while. I figured that the sensor was bad and replaced it with another one from the junkyard and still the car shut down after a while of driving. Could it be that both sensors are bad cause I don't really see anything wrong with the sprocket.
Hello Thomas, thank you so much for the video! I just had a question in regards to keeping the Camshaft sprocket in place - Is there anyway to break the bolt without the use of the "Counter Hand tool"? Thank you! Love the videos!
You can stick a screwdriver between the camshaft sprocket spokes and rest it against the valve cover, then try to loosen the bolt. Do so only while the timing belt is still in place... to prevent accidental camshaft rotation while the crankshaft is stationary.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you so much! I truly appreciate it!
Thomas EXOVCDS I am doing what you said and leaving the belt in place with zip ties and I'll bungee it to the hood! I am replacing the camshaft pos sensor.
You have to be very careful though... the camshaft sprocket has a "sensor wheel" behind it. If you are not careful, the sensor wheel can bend. A counter hold tool can be bought at most auto parts stores (most likely).
I just replaced one on mine. bought it at O'Reilly Auto Parts. 2 weeks later the same engine code came back and having the same problems. Today I started car to warm up. She stalled and now she cranks but won't fire. Not sure if it's related and I should just go and buy another one this time from the dealer or have it towed.
Bart Nash Engine should start / run with sensor unplugged. Check for missing timing belt teeth / if the timing belt us actually turning the camshaft.
dont ever buy electrical type parts like this from parts houses. quality sucks. only dealer parts
I'm sure someone already asked this but typically, most vehicles I've encountered whether Asian/euro/domestic market, the signal return is almost always less than reference. 5 volt ref, .7-4.5 volt return or 12 volt ref, 0-12v square wave for example on a Hyundai. Can someone explain how or why on the VW 4 banger (I literally have a VW beetle in front of me right now) has a 12 volt square wave using a 5 volt ref? The car is fixed but just curious. Cheers.
You'd have to ask the VW engineers for the reasoning behind that... 12V square wave is not always the case. Later version of this 2.0L engine produces a 5V square wave (CBP engine). Earlier engines with distributors use a 5V signal (for the distributor hall sensor) in one version and a 12V in the other (might be OBDI / OBDII differences)... again, I'm not an engineer.
Good job
Do you have to bring the sprocket to a certain position (TDC?) to take it off and preserve timing or just pull it off and zip tie the belt?
Whatever you feel comfortable with. If you set everything to TDC, then you can make sure that timing stays the same, in case the belt slips, the cam & crank are where they should be.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for the advice!
Heh, I had a cam sensor issue on my B4 Passat when I first got ahold of it. What followed was probably the longest bout of automotive-related swearing and ranting I've ever gone through, as I learned that Volkswagen, for whatever reason, has decided to body-ground all the engine management sensors, rather than PCM-ground them like anyone with electrical engineering experience would do...
Long story short? The cam sensor on a 12V VR6 shares its ground with the auxiliary water pump that sits right beside it. I've looked over the wiring diagram time and time again, and I still can't explain why the PCM loses cam signal if you unplug the auxiliary water pump while the engine is running...
Weird... I'll have to remember to test that out on the next one I see (or look at a wiring diagram). Thanks for the heads-up!
*****
If you have the chance, please do, and let me know what you come up with! I'm curious if they're all like that, or if I have bigger issues at play...
Hi Thomas. I have a VW Jetta 2.0 and it cranks but it won't start at all. It was running perfectly fine yesterday but when I tried starting it up today It wont start at all. I recently change the spark plugs, wires and coil pack so I think that's not the problem. I also tried checking the spark plugs if it has sparks but I didn't see any. I also tried hooking it up to a scanner but I didn't get any codes. Maybe the cause is a faulty CPS? Looking forward hearing from you. Cheers!
Could be CRANK Sensor... is the RPM needle moving when the engine is cranking? If not, could be crank sensor. Cam sensor is not needed for the engine to run. Have someone tap on the bottom of the fuel tank (rear right passenger side) while you are cranking the engine... it the engine starts, fuel pump is bad. If you are sure you have no spark, focus on Crank Sensor / ECM sensors.
Thomas EXOVCDS Appreciate your help. Will update you soon if it works. More power on your channel! Cheers.
When the engine turns over (trying to start the engine)... what does it sound like? Does it turn quickly / sound like it is turning quickly? Like in this video? ua-cam.com/video/8ySwgYfgQo0/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS Thanks mate your a LEGEND the crank sensor is definitely the culprit. But I had another problem and it annoys me though. I noticed a slight a misfire ONLY during idle and I can't point it out what's the cause of it. I'm sure it's not with the coils, spark plug and leads. Is it possible from faulty injectors, O2 sensors or something else? TIA
@@kingabbotfilms could be injector spray... I don't think an o2 sensor would do that (if things are ok off of ideal).
Hello dear. I have one question if it possible to answer me. I have VW GOLF 4 2.0l AQY code. I have a small problem, the engine starts without problems, runs very well, has good acceleration but at the idle I feel at the steering wheel when the engine do a short interruption or like small vibration and the same at the exhaust (I hear like bup-bup every 2 or 3 seconds constantly). I checked everything with the electricity (coil, spark plugs, wires), crancshaft sensor, MAF, O2 sensors and the other sensors, computer, timing belt is new, cleaned combi valve, 4 filters, oil, fuel pump changed and measured pressure in both pumps, changed petrol injectors, measured cylinder compression-more than 10,5BAR. Yesterday I tested camshaft position sensor like in your video with the multimetre (on the left-first its 5V, second one its not from 0-12V when the engine is runing-its is about6-7V, third is 0,011V). My engine runs with gas and petrol. I dont have idea what could be this small problem, help me to solve. Thank you very much.
I have no idea... especially if it is dual fuel. Have a shop look at it.
Thank you for the answer. I was to the mechanics, auto-electricians and to the gas mechanic (changed evaporator). During running with the gas engine works quietly. I have check engine light but without any signal fault codes. Can it be camshaft sensor with those simptoms (voltage)? Thank you and greeting from Kosova.
great video wish i would of watched before almost strippin cam sensor bolt then bending the tabs that the sensor reads then losing the keyway piece like wtff, i didnt think that piece would come out
Yeah, a lot of people bend the shutter wheel... sometimes the key stays in place.
+Thomas EXOVCDS ya im waiting on new key way now i had gotten new shutter wheel and cam sprocket and i even boug oriellys sensor and no luck aith it so i got oem bosch sensor,and outtung back together, the littke metal piece fell in the sand
David Cifuentes Make sure it didn't fall into the timing belt area (water pump or crank sprocket)... it will cut the belt.
+Thomas EXOVCDS i will check thanks, my luck thats exactly where it is
Would a faulty Camshaft make the car suddenly shut off itself? Mine is randomly doing this, last time happened while passing a bump and wouldn't turn on again until it got cool. VW Jetta 2001.
No, I have not had a cam sensor that would cause a stalling or no start situation. You can disconnect the sensor yourself and drive the vehicle with the sensor disconnected. If the stalling persists with the sensor disconnected, you can rule-out the sensor as the cause. The engine may run / have less power with the sensor disconnected... but it should still run.
Hi! im in the process of timing belt change, water pump.. etc.. can i just clean off the CPS without buying a new one? like dust blaster? will that prevent brakedown? thank you
Alphafox46 Cam position sensors have a limited time span... it's not always the same. A transistor can only open / close so many million times. You can replace it now or later. I have a video showing how to replace it on a 2.0l engine, by just moving the camshaft sprocket. Your sensor might be good until the next timing belt change or it might fail within the next year.
once u put the camshaft position sensor in did put it on top dead center before or after on that vw beetle
It's always a good idea to put the engine to TDC before taking things off... I believe the engine was at TDC when I removed the belt & cam sensor. This was a Golf or Jetta, not a Beetle.
@@EXOVCDS i see what u are saying but it want move the teeth are gone all the way it is slick so do u think it is a good idea to put belt on then do tdc
Sorry, I forgot that you are the one with the broken timing belt / missing teeth.
Turn the cam & crank to TDC... it doesn't matter which one you turn first. Once both are at TDC, you can remove the belt or install the belt (if the belt is already off).
While you are turning the camshaft, the camshaft will want to turn quickly / snap forward... that's because of the valve springs pushing on the camshaft lobes. Try to prevent the camshaft from spinning / snapping forward as you are rotating it.
Do you know what the both the TDC marks look like? Camshaft & crankshaft (at the transmission)?
@@EXOVCDS yeah I see the marks someone already put white out on the marks and orange on the crankshaft pulley when I pulled the pulley off earlier
@@EXOVCDS could one of the rollers freeze up and cause the timing to not turn i wonder
Hi, i have problems with my passat CC 2013, the car runs good when it's cold but stalls once it warms up... and there is no chance to start ir normally again, after start it works only 1-2 sec, then stalls... After 2-3 hrs when the engine is cold, it stars normally again... The diagnosis didnt show any faults... :( There is possibility that i have the same problem with crank?
Yes, maybe... but usually a faulty crankshaft or camshaft sensor will set a fault code in the computer.
Hi Thomas, good day! I have a MK 4.5 JETTA GLI 1.8t in Mexico, in this week the gli turned on the light of check. I connect the scan and clear, the code was 17746 Cramshaft Position Sensor G40 P1338-35-10 open of short to plus intermittent. The code does appear again, you recommend any maintenance? Thanks for your time.
Check that the sensor has power & ground (the outer two wires)... just like in this video. Check that the center wire has voltage and that the voltage goes to 0 when the sensor is triggered. You can use a voltmeter to check:
ua-cam.com/video/A6XV5x0504c/v-deo.html
If the sensor is producing a signal, then you have to check camshaft timing (intake & exhaust camshaft) and cam/crank timing (TDC marks on camshaft gear and crankshaft / flywheel). If the sensor is not producing a signal, then the sensor is bad.
Thomas EXOVCDS thanks so much! Maybe the sensor starts with failures, because the connector it’s ok, i have 4.99vcd, 10.09vcd ant negative, the voltage in the center wire is 6.2 to 6.6 vcd with the engine on and idle. The code not appear anymore but My car have a 128,000 km maybe it’s necessary change the sensor.
@@marcocortes1340 Yes, it could be that the sensor sometimes does not produce a signal.
Hello. Tell me please (about the DMRV). Auto Golf 4(2.0/8v/115hp), dmrv (type HFM5) 5 contacts, put the multimetess probes on the 3rd and 5th contact and go on to turn on the ignition, and watch the voltage show 1.02 V, literally 1 second and then abruptly decreases to the lowest reading to 0.01V (and holds), it is worth to start a car, readings 1.48-1.
50V (at idle) and increase as you press the gas pedal. What can it be? Thank you!
Post a video on your channel so that I can see what you are doing.
Hey Thomas,
I was wondering if you think on my 2011 Audi Q5 2.0T when getting the code
OBD2 - confirmed:
P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor
P0456 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (very small leak)
you think the Position sensor itself needs to be replaced? I'm not sure if the vacuum leak is related but that code showed up later.
After watching your video (very helpful), I feel a little more confident about getting in there and replacing it myself.
I'm also getting the EPC light come on at random times.
+Alex Kane I'm currently at work... your cam sensor is in a different location (much different engine than in this video). I'll get back to you tonight (west coast time).
+Thomas EXOVCDS Hey Thomas, any luck on this?
+Alex Kane Hi... sorry, I keep forgetting to get back to some people. I'll send you info tonight.
+Alex Kane I can't find the "send message" button on your channel... send me a message so that I can send you a link.
ua-cam.com/users/ExoVCDSabout
+Thomas EXOVCDS I don't see a send message? Can you email maybe? Alex.alkane@gmail.com
Have you notice that when you get a faulty cam position sensor with a car with no throttle cable in neutral the car will not rev past 3000 rpm that is with the engine hot I can't remember if it would do it cold and a car with a throttle cable will be able to rev to red line but no power all the time .
+V10PDTDI No I have not. I have heard of (and people have asked me about) peoples cars not reving past 3k rpm. I always thought that it was like when you perform basic settings (brake & gas at the same time). Some of the new TDI's won't rev past 3k when in park or neutral... those I have noticed. None of the people who have contacted me have mentioned a stored cam code. I'll keep it in mind. Thanks!
I'm having this problem now. If you go above 50% throttle it wont go past 3k. But if you accelerate slowly you can go 80mph no problem
Thomas, I've got an 04 Jetta 2.0L BBW engine. Had a P0010 code and replaced the camshaft position sensor. Started great and idled perfect to temp. I didn't drive, 3 cars in the way. Next morning I turn the key and it starts but instantly goes dead. It will keep running if I keep the pedal down at about 4000 rpm but then dies as soon as I let off. Any ideas? Thanks.
The oil control solenoid plunger for the camshaft phaser might be stuck.... causing the cam to stick in the advanced position. I'm currently at work... will reply again once I'm at home later tonight (6pm> PST).
thanks. I'll look forward to hearing from you.
Using a scan tool that can view live engine data... one can check specified and actual camshaft position (degrees of rotation). At idle, there should be 0 degrees of advancement. If the cam is stuck in the advanced position, then the engine will be harder to start and will not want to idle. I recently had a New Beetle with the 2.5L engine that had a stuck valve / plunger in the solenoid... caused the same symptoms that you listed. You can remove the solenoid to check it for debris (that might be keeping it open / closed) and for functionality (apply battery voltage rapidly to the solenoid to see if the plunger responds).
Thanks. Will give it a try. well the part I can anyway. I don't have a scan tool that will do that but maybe autozone has one to loan.
@EXOVCDS
Can it die out of the blue?
at some point start to have long start issues, yesterday received ESP lamp, and lose of juice (lack of power) checked codes P1338 G40 Open or Short to Plus
Year, make, model, engine?
Check for missing timing belt teeth.
@@EXOVCDS VW Golf IV (Variant)
1.6L (APF)
Engine ran totally ok after rebuild (at 240k km), sensor was not changed, because there were no need for this
I don't know if the 1.6 has the G40 at the cam gear.
@@EXOVCDS It has, checked with manual, internet etc. - 06A905161B
Hi. Having trouble finding the location on my 2012 Volkswagen Jetta s 2.0 do you know if the location would be the same as in the video
Thanks
Same location... I can see it in this picture:
image.superstreetonline.com/f/40634661+w+h+q80+re0+cr1/eurp-1205-01%2B2012-vw-jetta%2Bcover.jpg
I hope that was helpful.
so i use the 2 holes on the plate on the cam for the holding tool? i need to order it but i want to make sure i know how to use it and mess anything up on my golf
+M1xxDuP3ngu1N No... the 2 little holes in the "shutter wheel" do not have anything to do with the removal or function of the cam sprocket. The holding tool "legs" are wedged against the camshaft sprocket legs.... you have to make sure that the holding tool DOES NOT press against the "hall sensor" or the "sensor wheel" (the metal piece that has those two holes). If either the sensor or the metal wheel get damaged, you will have camshaft position sensor fault codes.
thanks, i even just saw what you mean in another video
How many time to make this job ?
My son have this code P0343 on VW Golf City 2008 2.0L with 223000Km on car
Do I need to use the suggestion kit on Rockauto?
Do you suggest to change the Timing Belt and Pump with new sensor or just timing belt and sensor ?
We have just buy this car last week. (no garantie).Do you think I will need a special Tools?
I have only a basic Tools. I already rebuilt my 5.0 Mustang 89 3 years ago
If you do not know how old the timing belt & water pump are... replace everything.
If you know the belt & pump are not that old, just replace the camshaft position sensor. You can leave the belt attached to the camshaft sprocket, tie it out of the way and replace the camshaft position sensor.
Did you have the engine warning light on? I have a 1999 2.0l golf mk4 that won't revealed past 3k either stationary or driving.... no engine light showing..... only codes are for misfire.... although it doesn't seem to be misfiring..and idles OK? I'm considering changing cam sensor. .. cheers
*Rev
Turn the key ON and check the voltage of the center wire of the camshaft position sensor connector with a multimeter. Start the engine and check the voltage again. If the voltage is the SAME, then the sensor is bad. If the voltage is lower, then the sensor is producing a signal.
I will have a look tomorrow. . Thanks for the info... I will let you know what happens.
Depending on where the camshaft position sensor "wheel" stops, it can pull the voltage down. Meaning that if you have 0 volts when the engine is not running, start the engine and see if you DO get a voltage. If you have voltage that does not change or if you have no voltage all the time, then the sensor is probably bad. One step further if you have no voltage at the center wire... disconnect the connector and check for a voltage at the unplugged connector.
Hi there, I checked the wiring to the sensor.... the 12v and the 5 v was there. ..earth too.... I tried disconnecting the sensor and it threw up a fault code.... plugged it back in and code disappeared. ... so I guess it's else where? Fuel pressure at supply to regulator is 3bar.. it will start OK. ... you can rev it to around 3k... then it will slowly die and stall, no fault codes bar some cylinder misfire codes.... it has had plugs.coilpack leads recently.. cheers
Hello. Any idea on how to fix the horn? The fuse is ok and I replace a new horn. Still no luck.
Horn button in steering wheel, horn / airbag clock spring under steering wheel, horn relay, bad wiring? Could be any of those.
Hii
I am writing to see what the problem could be with my car. My garage is out of ideas, so i would be grateful if you could put in your views.
Its a Skoda Superb 1.8TSI, 2011 model
I got a head gasket replaced and a few cam timing chain guides replaced (only the chain guide and not the actual toming chain)
The car is running just fine. There is no misfire or rough idle or any visible abnormality and there is no overheating now, due to which i had to have the head-gasket replaced, but the EPC light comes on intermittently leading to an MIL light (check engine light) and the scanner gives the code P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
Now we replaced the oil control solenoid as well as the sensor. Voltage at the connector is 4.7V., yet the fault code refuses to go.
Plzzzz help !!!!
Using a scan tool, you should be able to see the position (in degrees) of the intake camshaft, as well as the "phase" position... what are the values? You need to have someone check the camshaft & crankshaft signals with a "scope", so that you can confirm correct position / alignment of the camshaft & crankshaft signals. We don't have Skoda in Canada, sorry.
Cam & crank signal example:
rotkee.com/image/cache/catalog/defect/image-defect-16339-cbfSCQE4foW2IFdcMiFfxmRdJPlhx1fj-1156x700.png
Once you have a capture of your sensor signals... you can compare your image to a known good image (you have to find one or test a vehicle that does not have the same fault code).
Quick question, will the cam sensor cause a no start? girl went in a ditch and cracked the radiator and wouldn't start after...did some pretty good damage...code is 17745 for cam sensor, misfire on multiple, and codes for all 4 cylinder and codes for knock sensor 1 and 3...
Year? Engine? Model? Cam sensor should not keep engine from starting. Check if something happened with the timing belt.
Thomas EXOVCDS oh sorry lol...02 jetta 2.0 manual...
Thomas EXOVCDS timing belt is horrible...turns over good tho...151k...she just got it Saturday last week
What do you mean it's horrible? If it jumped teeth, valves could be bent. If you don't have spark, then I would say crank sensor or wiring may have gotten damaged. Crank sensor is mounted to engine block... to the right of the oil filter, just before where the engine meets the transmission.
It's cracked and don't look like it's ever been changed...I work on vw/audi alot...u might remember me from a last summer, had the 02 passat 2.8 that would run ok over 3k rpm...I don't think I told u the solution...the cam sensor shoe broke and bent 1 valve on each cylinder on the passenger side...I rebuilt the head and sold it to a friend...still going strong!!..anyways, back to this vw...I usually work on 1.8, 2.8, vr6, r32...don't usually touch the 2.0...I do alot of rebuilds mostly..so I think I'll do a compression test, then talk to her and do timing belt etc, cam sensor...try to start it and move to cps it it won't go...ecu is ok...no spark I don't think...I don't see damage anywhere from hitting whatever she hit...it bent the radiator in but didn't break fans etc so not thinking it's anything serious
I just had my water pump, timing belt and serphentine belt replaced on my 2004 jetta. Now its throwing this P1338, P0420 catalyst system and P2181 cooling system. Could my timing be off?
P1338 "could" be due to the belt change... if it does NOT produce a signal, then it's a faulty sensor (old age). If it DOES produce a signal, then the timing "could" be out".
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17746/P1338/004920
The others are probably not related to the work (underlying / previous issue)... my best guess at this point.
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16804/P0420/001056
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18613/P2181/008577
Thanks!
Thanks Thom
cam shaft sprocket torque is 100Nm (73.7 ft lb) ? I want to know that torque . ??? please correct spec
+Bright kim Yes, 100 Nm for 2.0l engines: AEG AVH, AZG, BDC, BEV, BGD
How much did this job cost?
Not sure, I don't write-up the invoices... installing the timing belt incorrectly can also set a cam position code (just in case you got the code after timing belt service was done).
Hi Thomas would this cause my 2.0 Jetta to stall even while driving on a freeway 80miles/hour? I need to wait about 20 minutes to be able to start the engine back on. Also, I’m noticing a loss of power when I’m going slow and trying to speed up. Please help, thanks.
Camshaft position sensor should not cause a stalling issue (disconnect the sensor at idle)... it can cause power loss issues if / when it acts-up while you are driving, especially when the signal is erratic / comes & goes.
If the stalling is repeatable (drive for 10min and then it stalls), disconnect the sensor while the engine is running and take it for your usual freeway run... if it no-longer stalls, then I would say yes, the sensor is the cause.
Your symptoms sound more like an issue with the crankshaft position sensor (to the right of the oil filter, mounted to the engine block. If it is a crank sensor that is starting to go... the engine will eventually not restart or not start at all even when it is cold.
Let me know what the test results were, when you disconnected the cam sensor while at idle and when driving it on the highway with the sensor disconnected. A disconnected cam sensor can cause lack of power at higher rpms (3000rpm the engine might not want to go any faster), so depending on the gear, you may or may not have a hard time getting to 80mph.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you for your help, it was the crankshaft position sensor that was bad.
Thank you for the update!
Thomas
I need the sensor done on my car...
I’m in Vancouver
07 golf city
When?
I don't advertise where I work, sorry. If you happen to find the place, feel free to book an appointment with the boss. Where have you been getting the vehicle serviced up until now?
nice job i see you follow the the guys as i will subscribe
+Richard Gill Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment! You've got quite a few channels that you subscribed to... will have to check out the ones that I don't know! Thanks for subscribing to mine as well!
***** yes I do. Do you own a shop and where are you from. Also I see a lot of vw repairs. I work at various shops in nw Indiana. Mostly Emission related repairs, driveability, and electrical. I watch many diagnostic repair videos. I hold state certification in Emissions, Ase L1, A8, and A6. Keep up the great videos.
***** I'm in BC Canada... I'm an employee at a small VW / Audi Specialty Shop. I just have a journeyman certificate. But with the way things are going, I'm thinking about getting some ASE Certification under my belt.
Hi Thomas, thanks for the video. I had a coolant leakage and the workshop replaced the water pump, ribbed belt, tensioner, repair kit. After that i had trouble starting the Jetta 2.0 TDI. Now the car is complaining about the crankshaft sensor(it would stall as soon as i turn the ignition) and the technician is telling me that gear box needs to be opened to check the sensor and is charging me again for the same. This problem was not there before i took the car to the workshop for the coolant leakage problem. Can u please tell me if this is related with the process of fixing the coolant leakage. Thanks a lot in advance.
its a 2015 Jetta 2.0L. Love from India :)
Crankshaft position sensor is on the other side of the engine / at the transmission end. I don't know if the transmission has to be removed to change the sensor (I have never replaced one). I am currently at work... I can check for location information once I am at home later tonight after work. The sensor should not have anything to do with the timing belt repair, unless there is a problem with the timing belt repair that was done.
@@EXOVCDS thank you Thomas for the reply. Cheers
The crankshaft position sensor can be removed without having to take the transmission off.
idpartsblog.com/2017/06/01/default-replacing-g28-engine-speed-sensor-on-common-rail-cbea-cjaa/
Removing the transmission gives you more visibility, but is not needed unless you need to change the rear seal or speed sensor tone-ring.
send me an email and I will send you service information: fkh161 @ fkh161 .ca (no spaces)
Please where is the oxygen sensor of this 2.0 located?
In the exhaust system... there are 2 of them. One is in the exhaust manifold at the back of the engine (look down behind the intake manifold) and the other is after the catalytic converter (under the car).
Hi Thomas I'm from South Africa can bad cam cause bad MAF and oxygen sensor on 1999 Mk4 2.0?
Maybe.
hey Buddy. I have a A3 AKL engine that has the same sensor. I'm getting intermittent fault codes on G40 and G28 sensors. Should I change both? I was advised to change the CPS sensor first and clean the faulty codes. My car is varying on low RPM and failing sometimes when driving. do you have some advices? Thanks
If the engine NEVER stalls or does NOT start... the crank sensor is OK. Make sure that the timing belt is tensioned correctly (not loose). Most likely, the cam sensor is intermittently cutting out... however, that should NOT cause the engine to cut-out / fail. You can disconnect the cam sensor and the engine should still start & run.
I have seen an engine set intermittent cam codes due to missing timing belt teeth! The engine would go in & out of time as the missing teeth caused the timing to shift... it can cause engine / valve damage if the timing slips too far. Make sure that the timing belt teeth are all good! If the belt is older than 6-8 years, replace the belt, tensioner & water pump!!!
Thanks, buddy. A mechanic just changed the timing belt about a month ago, but he said the tensioner was OK, so no need to change it. I will check the timing and the tensioner
Thiago Feitoza If the engine stalls out... it's probably the crank sensor then. Drive with the cam sensor disconnected to verify... after making sure that the tension is ok.
Thanks, Thomas. I will check the timing and unplug the sensor. Thanks for all your help
***** What's up, buddy? I checked the engine's timing and it's ok. I bought a new sensor and replaced the old one. The fault has gone. After this, the G28 fault appeared. I replaced the G28 sensor and the fault got cleared either. Now, every time I try speed up my car, the G40 implausible signal fault appears again. Do you know what can it be? Thanks for all you help, man.
Would vacuum leak throw that code, or why did you highlight its absence? I just changed spark plugs, fuel injectors and power cables in my 1994 Jetta, and on testing a day later, I see this code. The car has been driven for something like 20 miles since the job, but it is not showing a check engine light.. I had checked codes just before the job, and after the job + coolant flush, and there was none. I suspect it could have a vacuum leak because I had to improvise the tubing to the throttle body (which i cannot find in the market). If V leak can trigger this code, then i would definitely need to revisit my improvisation before checking anything else.
That code is strictly for cam sensor / hall sensor in the distributor (your application). Some of the early OBD vehicles will set a cam code if you scan with the engine NOT running. Timing could be out slightly as well. Check for a loose timing belt
Thanks Thomas. Sorry, I thought i had seen on this thread the exact code I got on my car. The car was running when I read the code. The particular code is 00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40). I was thinking about the timing belt too, but was hesitant to go messing with that. Now that I have checked my improvised breather tube and it looks good, i think timing belt is the next thing.
@@kim7018 You might only have to adjust / rotate the distributor.
i will try. would you be in a position to explain what the problem would be, or why rotating the distributor would resolve the code?
2.0L or 1.8L?
If 1.8L, ignore what I said.
On the 2.0L the ECM is "looking for" a signal from the distributor. When it doesn't see the signal when it thinks there should be a signal... then the ECM will set a cam sensor code.
Turning the distributor can get the signal back to where the ECM wants it and the code will go away.
The 2.0l will run with the distributor disconnected (the hall sensor unplugged).... because it uses the crank sensor as the main input.
Let me know what engine you have.
i have a question my car wont rev past 3000 rpm can it be the cps?
Some people say yes... I have not seen that happen. Disconnect it and see if it revs better. I had a car last week that had a bad crank sensor... past 3000 rpm it would fall on its face. Check for fault codes before you disconnect the cam sensor (because disconnecting it will set a code).
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks for the fast reply ill check it out thanks
@@oscararambula6108did it work?
oh so its 5v as the power source and 11.2v is the signal wire?
Backprobe like I did to get your voltages and compare when unplugged. A scope is needed to view actual signal / square wave voltage... a multimeter just displays an average voltage.
@@EXOVCDS it's I kinda weird my first issue was I had the two positive wires backwards and I immediately got the p0343 so when I discovered that,switched them and immediately got a p0341......grrrr but I think the sensors that have red black and yellow wires are cheapo's so probably gonna have to order the expensive one or go the junk yard and snag a few that aren't from shen zen
You had to do wiring repair and mixed them up?
@@EXOVCDS ya so I checked the the wiring right and the Chinese one gives me a 343 and with an old original one I get a 341 so I need to get a better made sensor I believe
How much did the G40 bro sensor cost you?
www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/camshaft-position-sensor/06a905161b~bos/
Hi what can do that my skoda octavia 1.8 it some time start good some time you have to crank many time and then it start. ? Thanks for help.
Not sure, could be fuel or ignition related... when it happens (does not start right away) check fuel pressure, check for spark, check if the ECM is awake.
Thomas EXOVCDS what is emc? I have now chanced crank sensor and camshaft sensor, there is trouble code whit camshaft sensor but i dont know why.
A ECM is engine computer... if you can get fault codes, then the computer is awake. Have you checked for spark at the spark plugs? Is the fuel pump running / working? How much fuel pressure?
Thomas EXOVCDS how i can check sparks, fuel pressure how i can look that. Fuel pump is working there come noise ehen you turn key. This starting issue come some time maybe more when the motor is warm.
I thought the 12v was the power and the 5v the signal . Is that why i check with a multimeter and it clearly shows 12v but then i check with a test and it wont light up..
With the new sensor (as can be seen at 10:44)... power supply to the sensor is 5V and the signal is a 12V signal that gets pulled to ground / 0V by the sensor. Using a voltmeter, the signal voltage will be less than 12 volts. An oscilloscope will show a square wave 12v to 0V (as can be seen in the video), instead of an average of 6V to 7V at idle... again, as can be seen at 10:44 to 11:20.
If your signal wire (the middle one) is showing 12V when the engine is at idle, then the sensor is bad.
You know if this is eactly the same process for the Golk mk4 with the 2.0?
This is a Golf / Jetta 2.0L.... VW A4 = VW mk4 = 1999 to 2006 Golf & Jetta.
Differs my 1.8t engine its very easy rdllacing g40 sensor
I have this on my VR, would this cause it to dump massive clouds of gas out the exhaust?
No... I don't think so. Unless camshaft timing is way off... due to a jumped timing chain. Is P1338 the only code you have?
@@EXOVCDS i have p0341 and p0135
@@zoomxdude1999 how smooth / rough is the engine running?
@@EXOVCDS idles great, but has a lot of lost power. burns thru gas too. No misfires in VAGCOM either but its just slow
You can check if your cam sensor is producing a signal... if it doesn't, then replace it. If i does produce a signal, then you have to check if the cam / crank timing is ok. If you hear chain noise, then the guide rails are probably broken.
when you put the belt back on do you start it at tdc??
M G's The belt has to be positioned on the camshaft & crankshaft gears while they (the engine) are at TDC. Starting the engine can be done at any position.
Thomas EXOVCDS the vw god has spoken 🙌🏾🙌🏾 I just got a mk4 2slow the previous owner did the waterpump and timing belt @100k but didn’t do the cam sensor (sits wit 122k) I just wanted to make sure I wouldn’t mess up the timing
does autozone/advance auto have that counter hold tool? @4:50
They probably do... not sure. I'm in Canada, we don't have Autozone.
www.amazon.com/EWK-Universal-Camshaft-Injection-Sprocket/dp/B00VFPOF1E/
One more thing, I have to let it sit for a bit before it starts up again.
The engine can run with NO camshaft sensor signal (disconnect it and start the engine)... so I doubt that the cam sensor is to blame. Sounds like common crankshaft position sensor fault (when they get old, they fail when they get warm / hot... after cooling off, the engine can be started again). I posted a video on a 2.0L last week with same symptoms: long version: ua-cam.com/video/MJIA0AsxASQ/v-deo.html short version: ua-cam.com/video/qYfZOb9vzkU/v-deo.html
I'll give that a try, it wasn't doing that before I opened it up.
I have a Bluetooth scanner and it gives a P0341 code.
Cam sensor fault can be set due to faulty sensor or due to incorrect cam / crank / belt timing.
Hello Thomas, just wanted to give you an update on the stalling. Before I when the out and spent the money on a new crank sensor I thought about what I had done different before it started stalling and remembered I had replaced the ignition coil but with USED one. So I bought a new ignition coil and voila, it stopped stalling. Although I had no misfire problems it turned out that the ignition coil was getting hot and causing it to stall.
Just thought I would let you know. Thanks for all of your input.
Now I just have to recheck the timing cause I still get the cam sensor code.
My Vw, 2L engine light keep going on and off. and when its on the car doesn't change gears normally. the gearbox its Auto. what can be the problem.
I don't know... scan the ECM & TCM for fault codes. Once I know the fault codes, I can "guess" as to what the problem might be.
take it to a real mechanic and have it diagnosed.
hi thomas i got a jetta 2.0L 2000 and i got the engine code p0341 ( camshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor A circuit range performance) and i whant to know if the sensor is dead like your video or its sommeting else......
Test it... you can use a regular digital voltmeter. Check for power & ground on the outer 2 pins (like in the video), check for a voltage signal from the center wire (like in the video). If it's the original sensor, it's most likely faulty. If a timing belt was replaced and this vode is now present... then the camshaft / crankshaft timing was not set correctly / is out.
code not vode.
so if its not working you sugest me to change my timing belt too.....my jetta got 166 535 km
+McFly_Qc Yes, if the belt, tensioner & water pump are still original... change them. If the belt breaks, you will have engine damage. We replace them at 120k km or 6 years.
ok by the way i got another engine code its P0102 ( mass or volume air flow circuit low imput ) i tink its the m.a.f sensor i already remove it and clean it but the engine code still there...what you tink...
how do you re tighten the belt tensioner ?
You rotate the adjuster until the tensioner "pointer" lines up with the reference mark... then, you tighten the 13mm nut.
Hi sir how are you sir I have 2003 VW golf 2.0 sir I have a problem with fuel, issue is that when car engine is running I cant stand with car because my eyes burning and also during drive when I on Ac also smel and eyes burning and high fuel economy please sir help me to fix my car I cant afford fuel expense
Could be a fuel problem (leaky injector), ignition problem (no spark at one of the cylinders), vacuum leak problem (lean misfire)... not sure. Use a scan tool to check engine data & fault codes.
What happens if you bend the hall sensor shutter? That little aluminium disk
It can damage the hall sensor as it spins. Remove the cam gear and bend the shutter wheel back into shape.
@@EXOVCDS Ahh, I bent it back into place, replaced the sensor and somehow I'm still getting the code. Could the disk do that or am I likely dealing with a bad wire somewhere?
Year, make, model, engine? Which cam code?
@@EXOVCDS 98 Golf MK4 1.6, the code was 00515 Camshaft Position Sensor, G40
@@drew9560 we don't have the 1.6l in mk4's here in North America. Is the shutter wheel in the cam gear or does the engine have a distributor? In either case... are you sure that cam & crank TDC alignment is correct? Which tdc mark are you using to check crankshaft position? Does the engine run?
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00515
Can you tell me where is the camsaft sensor on polo mk3 1.3 engine 95 year
I would have to find a service manual... we don't have that engine in North America. Most likely it is in the distributor (the hall sensor). If I find information, I will get back to you later today. What is the actual problem? Fault code? After timing belt replacement? The more info I have, the better I can help. Post a video of your engine on your channel. Record the engine bay / engine so that I can see various components. Post the link to your video here.
@@EXOVCDS when im driving and the temperature gage come on 70 degreces it drops the rpm and he have bad fuel consupmtion
On the scan it has code 00515 camshaft position
I need more info. Engine production code? Or... record & post a video.
i have to change this sensor in my 01 1.8t jetta but I cannot find where the sensor is at in the engine? Please Help!
i58.photobucket.com/albums/g241/bad_karma23/SensorEdit.jpg
+Thomas EXOVCDS I have already changed that cam sensor I just need to change the one like you did on this car.
+Guadalupe Espinosa You have a 1.8t... the cam sensor is in the picture I linked. if you already changed that sensor, then it is not a sensor problem. the 1.8t does not have a sensor behind the cam sprocket like the 2.0l engine.
if you have a cam code with a new sensor, then you either have a wiring problem, a timing belt installation problem or a cam chain tensioner / installation problem.
Are you still looking for the sensor?
+Thomas EXOVCDS No i think i have a bad ECU.
so cant seem to get cam gear back on the groove?
You have to keep an eye on the woodruff key... if it sticks out too high, re-position the key and carefully slide the cam gear into place (the cam gear has a groove that the woodruff key sits in (just line in the camshaft).
If the camshaft is completely bad will the car still start
What engine, what year? You mean the camshaft lobes or the camshaft position sensor? The engine should still start if the sensor is bad... depends on the year of the engine / fuel injection system.
The cam sensor 2002 vw golf 2.0
+Hugo Lopez I had one today on a beetle.... car starts & runs OK.
+Hugo Lopez The engine in this video ran with a bad cam sensor. What happened with your car? Died while driving or just wouldn't start one day?
***** drove it in the morning got home went to the store two blocks down got back to the house when i was going to go work it wouldnt start
Good evening. My 2001 VW Cabrio 2.0 automatic has been shutting off lately when I hit the brakes. Any ideas?
+Sal Esquivel At idle speeds only / when stopped at a stop light / parked... or also when at cruising speeds? Check for fault codes, check "fuel trim" values with a scan tool... to see if there are any fueling issues. How is the vehicle shifting? Any codes in the TCM?
+Thomas EXOVCDS It shifts normal but takes a few seconds to pick up speed & as I slow down speed, it trembles. Scanner read cam issue.
+Sal Esquivel Not all scanners will show all codes... cam sensor is in the distributor. You can disconnect the distributor (3 wire plug) and see if things are different.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Disconnect it while the car is on? Before I turn it on?l Then drive it?
+Sal Esquivel Either... it will / should start with it disconnected and continue to run.
la jente eso no lo intiende pero es mejor eso un solo gasto pero q da vien
What type of scan tool do you use.
+Richard Gill Several... I'm at work, will reply again later tonight.
+Richard Gill in this video it appears www.ross-tech dot com
+bandolero515 Yes... One of my scan tools is VCDS by Ross-Tech. I also have Snap-on scanners, and a Generic OBD2 scanner by Autel. The Ross-Tech is the besy one to get for VW / Audi
If a 99 audi a4 Quattro 2.8L doesn't reverse and only accelerates slows at high rps could it be a sensor?
no. std or auto? if auto... tranny issue.
It's automatic with tps. But gives a code for speed sensor
+joshua cruz Speed sensor for auto tranny... it's an output signal from the tranny to the tcm. if there is a problem with the tranny internally, the signal from the speed sensor will not make sense to the tcm and set a code.
So most likely the Trans is gone? Do you have any good guides for a diy replacement of Trans. Never worked on audi or vw
+joshua cruz I have no idea if the tranny is gone... from where I am. It could be a valve body issue or something major internal. I can send you removal info if you need it... but I would suggest having someone (tranny shop) look at it to verify that there actually is an issue.
tengo vw golf 2.0 auto trasmision pero prende y tienbla como si estuviera mis first pero no tiene q ago
I'm still at work... I'll get back to you once I am at home later tonight.
¿Se agita el automóvil mientras conduce o sólo cuando el vehículo no se mueve
tienbla mas cuando le a selero y como situviera un miss first y no core casi nada mañana te mando el codigo y munchas grasias por tu a lluda tienes un buen canal
А катушка зажигания не может быть?
проблема может заключаться во многих вещах ... вы должны проверять одно за другим.
Mi carro ocupa ponerle ese sensor
Lo siento, no entiendo. Estoy usando el traductor de google.
El motor puede funcionar con el sensor desconectado.
Можно по русскому языку?У меня точно такое же машина есть проблемы он кагда хочет заводица а когда не хочет не заводица но стартер крутит .скажите в чеом причина
Может датчик положения коленвала. Или реле ECM
@@EXOVCDS а катушка зажигания не может быть?
проблема может заключаться во многих вещах ... вы должны проверять одно за другим.
@@EXOVCDS я помтнял и датчики и катушка зажигания и релее есм. А толку не какой он то заводица то нет
😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
Dude stop shaking so much you nervous? Get a steady camera harry!!
My donation buttons can be found on my website. =)
I barely get a reading from Left. The middle it's goes up and down but 4-6V. Right similar to Left.
So the issue is that you have a cam sensor fault code?
Recent timing belt job?
Middle fluctuating indicates that the sensor is doing something... double check / recheck your timing belt TDC marks.
I'm driving.. suddenly the check engine light pops on. The car feels like it's not shifting. it will if I keep in under 40 mph. I took it to a auto part to see WTF the light meant got the following: P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor. P0354 Ignition Coil D. P0353 Ignition coil C.
I'm about to check the Cam Position Sensor reading again.
- Unplug connector. Start car.
- Reading should be L=5v. Middle 12v or less fluctuating. R= 0.05v
Right? This is a 2003 VW Beetle with 2.0L GLS engine.
Unplugged... all voltages should be stable. Outer two are power & ground... middle one is ECM signal voltage that gets grounded by the cam sensor when the transistor is turned on.
Plugged in... the center voltage will fluctuate (when viewed with a multimeter). A scope is the best way to see the square wave.
watch this:
ua-cam.com/video/A6XV5x0504c/v-deo.html
19 · Jul 24, 2020
Hi all, I have just got ours back from the “Peugeot Specialists” after 40 days and they tell me they don’t know what the issue is! I paid $3000 to have it back doing exactly what it was doing when I took it in. Their next guess is either oval bore or stuck oil rings in number 4 cylinder (apparently the one on the left looking at the engine). I have now paid more than the car is worth to have a specialist repairer tell me that a 1600cc engine has beaten them. My advice is sell what you have before it becomes junk like ours and keep away from Peugeots (or European cars!).... over and out
SaveShare
Reply Quote

rbuckland
Registered
Joined Jun 2, 2020
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · Nov 11, 2020
Hi all, so I now have some really good news
The last fix attempt pre this posting was replacing the exhaust manifold sensor.
It didn't improve it, but the previous one was faulty because the short and long fuel trims improved afterwards.
I replaced too the crankshaft sensor but that didn't fix it either.
I ordered an AUD $20 crankshaft sensor from Alibaba in August but because of covid if arrived yesterday Nov 10.
AU $18.79 | Crankshaft position sensor for Peugeot 207CC 308SW 308 3008 RCZ Citroen DS5 C4 BMW MINI 1920LR/13627561753

13.5US $ |Crankshaft position sensor for Peugeot 207CC 308SW 308 3008 RCZ Citroen DS5 C4 BMW MINI 1920LR/13627561753|Crankshaft/Camshafts Position Sensor| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
 a.aliexpress.com
My dad installed it today.. and it's fixed. No more errors.
Geez that was a long fix.
So it was a timing issue after all.
Suggest if you've got this problem .. replace the two sensors first AUD $40 plus labour.
Then explore tining chain and fuel mishaps