Thank you so much for making this. The screaming woman has to be one of the funniest things I''ve ever watched in a repair video. Or any for that matter.
Smashed my hand on the industrial size drill press at work last week, still hurts today. Those water hose clamps are sharp indeed. Tight quarters for that sensor but just enough room to get it done. Nice job. Thanks!
Nearly lost my left index finger last month... instagram post will be in this months various bits. Wish I would have been recording with the video glasses when that happened, sadly, I don't record everything. Would have / could have been a viral video! =(
Dang it. Well, I bet if we both keep trying we can eventually get that sacred viral video we so desperately want. I'm looking into some pretty beefy rotating shafts this week. Action! lol
I love using the zip ties to hold the belt in place. Great tip. I was hooked on a space game that shot incoming space ships but I can't remember the name. "asteroids" maybe?
Good informative video, it's actually easier if you remove the coolant reservoir and/mount, just support your engine on a jack and you end up with a lot more wiggle room to work with. have a great day
Got a quick question. I put the peddle to the meatle and the car just bogs all the way down and then nothing. Would it possibly be the cam shift sensor
Damn Thomas, that was some really tight quarters getting down to that cam sensor and I was amazed that you didn't say one curse word when that ratchet slipped on you. Me, on the other hand.... And nothing like a nice game of paperboy to relax after dealing with that sensor :) I favored asteroids myself and spent hours on that game :)
This is a great video. My 2004 Golf was running fine until it stop spinning pass 3k rpm and the check engine light came on. I try to do a lot of work myself but I think I will pay someone to do this.
@@EXOVCDS Putting a cam sensor on my 2.0 is not my limit. I replaced the timing belt on my sister’s 87 Jetta. I just don’t feel like doing it. After taking my Golf to the dealer. I guess I will do it and save myself $2048.
@@EXOVCDS Yes. I bought this car from a police impound for $800. The engine was locked up. I'm an automotive youtuber. I planed to show people how much it cost to pay someone else to do most of the work. I have to draw the line at this point.
I have that cam pulley holder too , still in the box , now I know what it's for . 👍 Stick with the air ratchet , my Milwaukee could never loosen them fasteners . You need some better bungee cords :)
I like these blue / rubber cords... I take care of them. I used to have the fiber ones (that you showed in your video) that were / are crap. Have not had any issues with these rubber ones. Granted, I don't use bungee cords much... that's probably why they are holding up so well. =)
All I had to do / needed to do was put more slack into the belt... but I was too worried about losing sync at the crank. If I had removed the crank pulley I would not have worried about the belt / alignment, because everything would then visible.
You gotta be very specific with these jettas. The camshaft position sensor for other jettas is not in that location, its actually on the driver's side of the engine. It's just a small white sensor attached to the engine by one little bolt very easily accesible. Mine is a BBW engine and yes it matters one little change on the model and parts differ. Not even autozone has that option for my car O'REILLYS does.
BBW has a cam phaser instead of a cam gear / pulley... so yes, cam position sensor is in a different location (other end of camshaft). 95% of 2.0L (A4 / mk4) engines are not BBW engines. BBW or not... most cam position fault codes are set due to incorrect timing belt installation. The sensors themselves don't fail that often.
It went well! Apparently, these must go bad on VWs quite a bit. I had done an engine replacement on a 2.0 and the engine I installed had a bad sensor... Interestingly, the engine I replaced had just had a bad sensor, too which I had replaced and I didn't transfer the sensor over to the replacement engine (when it would have been EASY).... never thought of it. But then, discovered it was bad on the "new" engine (which actually had 70K on it - 2000 Golf... ua-cam.com/video/b4F-rMQft3k/v-deo.html Here's me putting the engine in!!! My first time with a 2.0. Thanks again for all your great videos! You are smart and great on camera!
Yeah, those hall sensors can fail at any time... or not. It would be a good item to sell with a timing belt replacement (just like the water pump) but we keep the cost down a bit without it. I've only had one customer come back within 6 months of timing belt replacement, who then needed a cam hall sensor. So we just wait until they actually fail... plus the customer feels better paying for something that actually needs replacing / is bad. =)
I would have liked to see how you get the pulley back on the cam, without losing timing, and without losing the Woodruff key. Isn't there some tension on the belt?
Some yes... but it is released when I loosened the nut on the tensioner and move the tensioner. It went back on easier than it came off, because I was able to get more slack out of the belt by releasing the tension more.
Show us the part where you magically put tension back on the tensioner with the engine mount in place. I don't think I'll be able to do it so I am going to remove everything just like if I was doing the whole timing belt.
I have a long skinny hook tool that I use to adjust the timing belt tension. I pull on the hook tool with one hand, while looking at the tensioner alignment marks using a telescoping mirror with the other hand.
I think I commented on a related video. Just used your vids to replace my sensor on my 04 beetle. Having trouble getting the sprocket back on as the key moves. The sprocket slides on and the key sits up as I push it on. It fell twice, nightmare to find. Thinking I need to remove the tensioner to have more space to work. Tips would be appreciated
That works for me! At first I just thought I could at least support you a bit by exploring the ads... then I discovered.... wait, this is RELEVANT for me!
Not sure how the ad tracking works... if closing the ad is enough to get "ad recognition points" or if a viewer actually has to click on the ad to open a web link. Much appreciate the gesture though!
LOL paperboy, i used to play that on the speccy, pain in the arse to play lol. "Jetset willy" was another silly platform game, and possibly a medical problem lol :-D
Hey Thomas, would this be the same process for a VW Jetta SE 2.5L? I changed my camshaft position sensor, but now it takes an extra 2-3 seconds to start up. Would it be the same one that's right underneath the engine cover?
Why did you change it? Do you still have the old one? Install the old one to see if it starts better (if it didn't take longer to start before you changed it).
Would a bend in the shutter wheel cause the cam position sensor code to stay on? I replaced my sensor, but the code persists, and now with the epc light on. I checked the wiring for the sensor and nothing seems out of the ordinary
Year, make, model, engine? Any recent work on the vehicle? Have you verified correct cam to crank timing / alignment via the tdc marks? A fault code doesn't mean a part is bad.
I don't know what the boss charges. It's best to phone a local shop and get a quote from them. You can find a reputable shop in your area by entering your postal code in the search field here: iatn.net/repair
So.. I might have managed to bend the shutter wheel a wee bit in one place.... :/ Do you think bending it back into place will be 'good enough'?? Dang man. Also, thanks a ton for these vids, super helpful when working on the ladies VW. I'm a diesel Benz guy myself.. (in NB on the East Coast of Canada)!
Yes, you should be able to tweak the wheel back into position. You can test it by placing the cam gear on the camshaft without the woodruff key (the small metal lock piece) and then spin the gear to see if any resistance is felt. If everything feels ok, install the key and timing belt. Don't forget to tighten the cam gear bolt.
Great tip here, Thomas. Thanks again! It wasn't too hard to tweak it back into place with a pair of vise grips (I had bent one corner of the shutter wheel), but super helpful advice to remove the woodruff key so the gear would spin around without turning the cam and I could pop it off and on quickly to make minor adjustments.
Thomas EXOVCDS since purxhasing the beetle i have watch and used your videos for reference on like 5 different projects. Thank you for posting them and many thanks for your replies and advice.
any way to lock the timing to do the crank and cam seals i see the access window for the flywheel but like some trans have a pin to to slide in near the window i guess there not concerned with the belt breaking and having no time seen a guy use the starter to break the crank bolt prob a stretchie he didnt have to to change the belt good design
Only loosen cam or crank gear bolts while the timing belt is still in place. "Counter hold" tools are available for either application (crank gear or cam gear). Camshaft: www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Universal-Camshaft-Injection-Sprocket/dp/B07LGXP3VL/ Crankshaft: (attach a long breaker bar to the tool) www.opentip.com/Schley-Tools-67600-Product-Specification-And-Purchasing-Information-p-4570545.html
@@EXOVCDS hi brother I recently did my water pump and now my car was hard to start usually take one turn after that specific job it would take about 3-5 second to start and the acceleration was bad I use my scanner I got the camshaft position sensor. I Oder the part and I couldn’t find it on my vehicle I came across your video and go back to my car and there’s nothing like that on my vehicle. Every last video I see on here is the same as the vehicle you was working on and my is different from everything last one of them. Mine does not have that sensor behind the timing 😬 and my timing crank sprocket is different as well mine have a 55mm torx in the middle
@@juniorpierre9940 Year, make, model, engine? If it happened after changing water pump... you have to recheck what you did. Cam & crank alignment is not correct. If you have a distributor... it is probably not correctly timed, Sorry about the late reply... your message was in the spam section.
Hey Thomas, I’m getting a (P0016 Bank 1 CMP Sensor) code on a (Audi A4 2.0 b8) Is this Cam Position Sensor, or Crank Position Sensor? Thanks for all the great Vids.
hey Tom.....on my 01 1.8t im getting a 343 immediately when it starts and extended cranking my hot wire is about 11.2v when my battery is at 12.5v all data says the hot wire needs to be at least 11.5v so when it starts it goes way past 11.5v both other wires are good 5.0v and a ringout on the ground and i threw a sensor at it....am i missing something besides the pcm please dont let t be that.......thanks
actually just came in from checking like you did and now have a p0341 with 5 to 6 volts showing on mm 341 makes sense with what your numbers were showing and the Amazon one I bought didn't fix it my results are from an old original one cam sensor
Keep in mind that checking sensor output/ voltage, only confirms whether or not the sensor is doing something. If the ECM does not "see" a signal from the cam sensor when it "expects" a signal, it will flag a cam sensor fault (even though the sensor is producing a signal). You need to check cam & crank timing... as well as check for chain stretch / jump or a bad chain tensioner if cam codes persist.
@@EXOVCDS I just got finished with putting on rebuilt head and I did have to put on my cams and I did mess with the timing cause I thought it was off but I made sure it was on before I put it back on maybe check the cams one more time now that ithe head is back on the block
@@Kevin-wy8kc set to TDC and send me pictures of camshaft gear & crankshaft pulley position... so I can see that things line up. Click fkh161 link in the description and then click on tool request to send me the images.
If that's the original belt with 116k, then yes, I would change it. What year? VW A4's are 15 to 20 years old... I have seen belts that broke at 11 years old. I would change the belt (timing belt & water pump kit) every 6 to 7 years.
@@3earded_dad430 Sorry... I should have asked. Creamy color where? Under the oil filler cap or on the dipstick? My oil cooler comment was meant for creamy mix in the coolant reservoir bottle. If your engine coolant is normal color, then the oil cooler is OK. If the coolant is creamy, then follow the steps below. Disconnect the coolant hoses at the engine oil cooler (above the oil filter) and connect the two hoses together with a suitable pipe / plastic coolant flush "T" fitting (from auto parts store. Run the engine and monitor the exposed pipes of the oil cooler. If the oil cooler is bad, engine oil will come out of one of the pipes.
This was actually My problem all along on My car, taught there were problems with the fuel system, replaced the CPS erased the codes... Drove really hard when testing, car rev'd up clean no more hesitation at and above 5k/rpm, switched off to cool down... Guess what, error reappeared 😒😔
@@EXOVCDS hi Thomas, I kinda looked for our last chats on one of Your videos, but could not find it, anyway... Its a 2001 Vw Golf mk4, 1.6 body & ecu, with an import 2.0 8valve Apk nd performance engine , errors I've received were, #1 abs sensor error, #2 lambda error, #3 Cam position Sensor error, I did replace the Cam sensor, didn't have money to replace 0°2 sensor and abs, but had a new "CPS" in my spares, I set the tdc before removing the timing belt, and cam pulley, removed the cam sensor and could see physical damage to the tip on the cam sensor , so I replaced the CPS, reassembled, checked timing again... Top dead centre 👍🏼... Cleared the errors, the sensor was at fault again, went to clear the second time, this time no Cam sensor error, idled the car gave it a few revs it was great, of i went for test driving, the rpm went to redline without ever hesitating, got back parked the car, an hour went by, got in the car again, had performance issues once again, diagnosed again the Cam Position Sensor is back.. I can't remember the code number it threw, will check tomorrow
@@bzarule9605 Not an issue if torsion value stays the same... only an issue if torsion value changes / you have to keep resetting it. I only mention it as a possibility.
Well, shit. Before I decided I’d be able to do this with ease I watched another couple of videos that were clearly mistitled. 2015 Jetta S. I’m guessing my camshaft position sensor is located in this area. And if so, I suppose it may behoove me to replace the timing and serpentine belts at the same time since I just crossed 100,000 miles?
Here's a video of a 2014 Jetta with the old 2.0L engine (such as yours). If the engine looks the same, then yes... you will have to remove the timing belt. 100K miles is way past safe service life already in my opinion. I would change the belt every 65k to 70k miles. ua-cam.com/video/eRjK3bj8f88/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS I appreciate the quick response. Since I left that comment I had done some more digging and found it. Exactly where it’s shown in the video. A little more than I wanted to get into but I have a garage full of tools and should be able to get it done on my own. I inspected both belts while I was at it, and while visually they seem completely fine I’ll go ahead and replace them. I understand the water pump should likely be swapped out at the same time since I’m already in there. I understand the importance of the timing belt. Any tips on straight up replacing one?
Here's a 2.0L timing belt removal video (installation is in reverse). ua-cam.com/video/zQNVjPilQzE/v-deo.html If you have specific questions as-you-go, let me know. Crack the cam gear bolt loose BEFORE you remove the belt... that way, if the cam gear moves, the crank will move with it and you can turn the cam & crank back to TDC at the same time.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the tips. I’ve never performed this type of repair before, but I’m good enough with the tools that I feel I can do just about anything. I’m a master electrician and master instrument tech with 25 years in the trade including 10 as a FIN nuclear tech, so I’m no dummy, but there is a first for everything. Your insight is appreciated. The videos I’d watched on the process were clearly wrong and had the sensor on the other side of the block in a far more accessible location. Just watched the wrong videos. I’ll probably let this slide until next weekend now that I’m gonna have to pick up additional parts and replace them all since I’m in there and might as well replace them. I’ll let you know how it works out. Again, thanks for the help. Very much appreciated.
ABA sensor is in the distributor. If the timing belt was recently replaced and you have a cam code ever since... then the distributor / rotor is out of position.
This is an easy one (except for pulling the sprocket off while the belt has tension on it)... anything 2005> have fun, that's why I drive / own cars that are 25+ years old. =)
Hello friend, this is a golf 4 2002 2.0 petrol / gas AZJ engine. For some time now, it has been happening to me that during the first morning start, the car starts up but immediately shuts down, I start it again and everything is fine. Any ignition of the car later in the day is fine, start from the first. I tried to turn on that first morning ignition on gas and the same thing happens. This happens in both summer and winter. Let me mention that I changed the coil, new spark plugs, replaced the cables 3 years ago (beru). Since the same thing happens with gasoline and gas, I guess it's not a pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator. Has anyone had a similar problem and how did they solve it? Thanks in advance.
It could still be petrol pressure / gas pressure for first start. When petrol is not used, it could be that the petrol bleeds back into the fuel tank. When starting the engine the first time... pressure has to build back up, causing a start /stall when starting the first time. Have your tried to "cycle" the ignition key on/off a few times "before" you try to start the engine? If not, try that first. Turn key on/off 3 or 4 times and then try to start the engine. If that does not make a difference, then I don't know what it could be. I do not have any "dual fuel" experience, sorry. As long as the engine starts the 2nd time, I don't think you have to worry about anything. I would have to use a scan tool & oscilloscope to try and determine what is going on.
Sorry to hear... I have not had one stick that bad before. You will have to remove the camshaft with the gear and then you can place the cam & gear in a hydraulic press. Be careful when you lift the camshaft off of the head with the gear... the camshaft sensor tone wheel can damage the camshaft position sensor (that is behind the camshaft gear)... if the tone wheel is sitting inside the cam sensor. Rotate the camshaft / gear until it is clear of the cam sensor, then you can lift / tilt the camshaft out of the head.
@@EXOVCDS I finally saw a gap on the cam shaft got my pry bar down lose and worked it around slow. Then later I had to use cir clip plies to retention the tentioner. Wrapped out to 6grand a few times no horrible noise been stuck at 3k limp mode.for months
Sensor alone does not take that long. If the timing belt is more than 6-7 years old, I'd replace it, the water pump, tensioner along with the sensor. Maybe that's what he is figuring on doing.
Thomas EXOVCDS probably, i got to this video because i wanted to see the location of the part, its screwed on the cilinderhead right? I went to a garage to make a cilinderhead swap from a 06b 103 373A head to a 050 103 373 head and apparently it doesnt have the sensor like the 06b
Thomas EXOVCDS Thomas EXOVCDS the head is for a 2012 caddy ecofuel 2.0l 8v engine code is bsx. the head came from an older audi 1.6 8v engine code: aft/aks
Thank you so much for making this. The screaming woman has to be one of the funniest things I''ve ever watched in a repair video. Or any for that matter.
Thank you for watching!
Smashed my hand on the industrial size drill press at work last week, still hurts today. Those water hose clamps are sharp indeed. Tight quarters for that sensor but just enough room to get it done. Nice job. Thanks!
Nearly lost my left index finger last month... instagram post will be in this months various bits. Wish I would have been recording with the video glasses when that happened, sadly, I don't record everything. Would have / could have been a viral video! =(
Dang it. Well, I bet if we both keep trying we can eventually get that sacred viral video we so desperately want. I'm looking into some pretty beefy rotating shafts this week. Action! lol
I love using the zip ties to hold the belt in place. Great tip. I was hooked on a space game that shot incoming space ships but I can't remember the name. "asteroids" maybe?
Missile Command was something similar and a lot of fun... it used a ball that you had to spin.
I remember now, it was called "space invaders". I spent many hours and quarters on that game.
Good informative video, it's actually easier if you remove the coolant reservoir and/mount, just support your engine on a jack and you end up with a lot more wiggle room to work with. have a great day
Thanks for the info... yeah, whatever works. Some people remove more, some less.
Got a quick question. I put the peddle to the meatle and the car just bogs all the way down and then nothing. Would it possibly be the cam shift sensor
Year, make, model, engine?
@@EXOVCDS mines got the same issues with buddies comment. Mines a golf 2litre 2004 and it loses power when I hit 3000rpms
A bad cam sensor or cam / crank timing issue will set a fault code... check for fault codes.
Damn Thomas, that was some really tight quarters getting down to that cam sensor and I was amazed that you didn't say one curse word when that ratchet slipped on you. Me, on the other hand.... And nothing like a nice game of paperboy to relax after dealing with that sensor :) I favored asteroids myself and spent hours on that game :)
Asteroids was simple yet genius in design! Definitely a top 10 game!
This is a great video. My 2004 Golf was running fine until it stop spinning pass 3k rpm and the check engine light came on. I try to do a lot of work myself but I think I will pay someone to do this.
It's not too difficult... but a small error can cause quite a bit of damage. It's good to know ones limits. Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Putting a cam sensor on my 2.0 is not my limit. I replaced the timing belt on my sister’s 87 Jetta. I just don’t feel like doing it. After taking my Golf to the dealer. I guess I will do it and save myself $2048.
@@blackericdenice That's a big estimate... was that for a full timing belt & water pump kit job? Yeah, definitely save yourself that kind of cash!
@@EXOVCDS Yes. I bought this car from a police impound for $800. The engine was locked up. I'm an automotive youtuber. I planed to show people how much it cost to pay someone else to do most of the work. I have to draw the line at this point.
I have that cam pulley holder too , still in the box , now I know what it's for . 👍 Stick with the air ratchet , my Milwaukee could never loosen them fasteners . You need some better bungee cords :)
I like these blue / rubber cords... I take care of them. I used to have the fiber ones (that you showed in your video) that were / are crap. Have not had any issues with these rubber ones. Granted, I don't use bungee cords much... that's probably why they are holding up so well. =)
Thanks for making that video Thomas man I know that hurts when your fingers slip It did mine Trying to line all 3 to top dead center was a pain
Thank you for watching!
Thanks Thomas it's a great video All new parts I hope I didn't chew up that my new belt my favorite game was pit fall back in the day
Its a ton easier if you pull the intake and remove cam while holding belt up. Mark 3 places on belt so you can line it back when you reassemble.
All I had to do / needed to do was put more slack into the belt... but I was too worried about losing sync at the crank. If I had removed the crank pulley I would not have worried about the belt / alignment, because everything would then visible.
You gotta be very specific with these jettas. The camshaft position sensor for other jettas is not in that location, its actually on the driver's side of the engine. It's just a small white sensor attached to the engine by one little bolt very easily accesible. Mine is a BBW engine and yes it matters one little change on the model and parts differ. Not even autozone has that option for my car O'REILLYS does.
BBW has a cam phaser instead of a cam gear / pulley... so yes, cam position sensor is in a different location (other end of camshaft).
95% of 2.0L (A4 / mk4) engines are not BBW engines.
BBW or not... most cam position fault codes are set due to incorrect timing belt installation. The sensors themselves don't fail that often.
I liked Frogger and Astroids back in the day and Pacman was fun to!
The good old days of having to pay to play! Kids these days get spoiled!
Wow you guys so old😂😂😂
Where did you say your Mother was from in Germany? I could be your dad!
Thomas EXOVCDS no mate you can't be my dad because she says you are firing blanks so in other words are Jaffa
Oh yeah... I forgot about that! D'oh!
Hey Tom, I have a really big problem trying to do this, I’m going to try the same methods with zip ties to not get it out of timing.
Keep me posted.
I did this the other day! Always enjoy your videos!!!
How'd it go? Thank you!
It went well! Apparently, these must go bad on VWs quite a bit. I had done an engine replacement on a 2.0 and the engine I installed had a bad sensor... Interestingly, the engine I replaced had just had a bad sensor, too which I had replaced and I didn't transfer the sensor over to the replacement engine (when it would have been EASY).... never thought of it. But then, discovered it was bad on the "new" engine (which actually had 70K on it - 2000 Golf...
ua-cam.com/video/b4F-rMQft3k/v-deo.html Here's me putting the engine in!!! My first time with a 2.0.
Thanks again for all your great videos! You are smart and great on camera!
Yeah, those hall sensors can fail at any time... or not. It would be a good item to sell with a timing belt replacement (just like the water pump) but we keep the cost down a bit without it. I've only had one customer come back within 6 months of timing belt replacement, who then needed a cam hall sensor. So we just wait until they actually fail... plus the customer feels better paying for something that actually needs replacing / is bad. =)
Do you use VCDS software to read error codes? I would love to see a tutorial on that somewhere!!!
I bought the cable (and downloaded the software) but I'm way DOWN on the learning curve!
I would have liked to see how you get the pulley back on the cam, without losing timing, and without losing the Woodruff key. Isn't there some tension on the belt?
Some yes... but it is released when I loosened the nut on the tensioner and move the tensioner. It went back on easier than it came off, because I was able to get more slack out of the belt by releasing the tension more.
Thanks for this video. It helped me tremendously. I successfully replaced my sensor.
Thank you for watching!
Show us the part where you magically put tension back on the tensioner with the engine mount in place. I don't think I'll be able to do it so I am going to remove everything just like if I was doing the whole timing belt.
I have a long skinny hook tool that I use to adjust the timing belt tension. I pull on the hook tool with one hand, while looking at the tensioner alignment marks using a telescoping mirror with the other hand.
I think I commented on a related video. Just used your vids to replace my sensor on my 04 beetle. Having trouble getting the sprocket back on as the key moves. The sprocket slides on and the key sits up as I push it on. It fell twice, nightmare to find. Thinking I need to remove the tensioner to have more space to work. Tips would be appreciated
Use a little grease to hold it in place. If you tilt the key down a little at the front, the cam gear will push the rear down as the gear slides on.
@@EXOVCDS thanks! I'll do that. I marked the slot on the inside of the sprocket which should help line them up better
Thomas! I even like the ads on your videos!!LOL Just discovered a sheet metal company near me in North Reading!!!
That's google in action... tracking your browser history! =)
That works for me! At first I just thought I could at least support you a bit by exploring the ads... then I discovered.... wait, this is RELEVANT for me!
But interestingly, though I use a lot of sheet metal... I've never googled it to my knowledge... I always get it from a friend.
Not sure how the ad tracking works... if closing the ad is enough to get "ad recognition points" or if a viewer actually has to click on the ad to open a web link. Much appreciate the gesture though!
Yeah... I opened the ad and explored around! That's how I found out there was a sheet metal place near me.. got on their "store locator"
Ouch! nice job as always Thomas!
Thanks Mike!
LOL paperboy, i used to play that on the speccy, pain in the arse to play lol.
"Jetset willy" was another silly platform game, and possibly a medical problem lol :-D
Oh the time I wasted back in those days... no wonder I ended up being a Mechanic (and struggling now). =)
Thanks!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Why would my cam sprocket ⚙️ not be coming off? Any suggestions. It won’t budge
Sometimes a puller is needed to pop it free.
Hey Thomas, would this be the same process for a VW Jetta SE 2.5L? I changed my camshaft position sensor, but now it takes an extra 2-3 seconds to start up. Would it be the same one that's right underneath the engine cover?
Why did you change it? Do you still have the old one? Install the old one to see if it starts better (if it didn't take longer to start before you changed it).
Everyone should know the cam bolt is a one time use stretch bolt. It needs to be replaced.
No, it's not.
The cam gear bolt torque spec is 100 Nm.
It's is not torque to yield.
I can post service info for you if you would like.
Would a bend in the shutter wheel cause the cam position sensor code to stay on? I replaced my sensor, but the code persists, and now with the epc light on. I checked the wiring for the sensor and nothing seems out of the ordinary
Year, make, model, engine? Any recent work on the vehicle?
Have you verified correct cam to crank timing / alignment via the tdc marks? A fault code doesn't mean a part is bad.
Dealer techs all say not to damage it.
I am working on a 1999 vw beetle thanks for any advice youay have
Bought tool and sensor...
Now,I’m not sure if I want to do it...
How much for labour?
I’m in Vancouver...
I don't know what the boss charges. It's best to phone a local shop and get a quote from them. You can find a reputable shop in your area by entering your postal code in the search field here:
iatn.net/repair
So.. I might have managed to bend the shutter wheel a wee bit in one place.... :/
Do you think bending it back into place will be 'good enough'?? Dang man.
Also, thanks a ton for these vids, super helpful when working on the ladies VW. I'm a diesel Benz guy myself.. (in NB on the East Coast of Canada)!
Yes, you should be able to tweak the wheel back into position. You can test it by placing the cam gear on the camshaft without the woodruff key (the small metal lock piece) and then spin the gear to see if any resistance is felt. If everything feels ok, install the key and timing belt. Don't forget to tighten the cam gear bolt.
U da the man. Thanks, Thomas!
Great tip here, Thomas. Thanks again! It wasn't too hard to tweak it back into place with a pair of vise grips (I had bent one corner of the shutter wheel), but super helpful advice to remove the woodruff key so the gear would spin around without turning the cam and I could pop it off and on quickly to make minor adjustments.
@@lucashicks3668 Thank you for the update! Only a great tip because I had to do the same one time. =)
Hey there you have helped me in the past on several vw beetle issues. I was wondering do you have a video on replacing the pass side front axle
Tat Man not for a beetle... but golf & Jetta are the same:
ua-cam.com/video/iKaBcSE1cOg/v-deo.html
+Tat Man Did that help?
Thomas EXOVCDS it was infomative and i think i can do it. I just picked up the axle and control arm. So i will be working on it tomorrow.
Thomas EXOVCDS since purxhasing the beetle i have watch and used your videos for reference on like 5 different projects. Thank you for posting them and many thanks for your replies and advice.
Thank you for watching... it's nice to hear that my videos have been of help!
would a camshaft sensor cause it to stutter when in drive, it drives fine in reverse but when i put it in drive it feels like my wheels are squares.
No. Year, make, model, engine? Check for a mechanical issue with suspension, motor mounts.
any way to lock the timing to do the crank and cam seals i see the access window for the flywheel but like some trans have a pin to to slide in near the window i guess there not concerned with the belt breaking and having no time seen a guy use the starter to break the crank bolt prob a stretchie he didnt have to to change the belt good design
Only loosen cam or crank gear bolts while the timing belt is still in place. "Counter hold" tools are available for either application (crank gear or cam gear).
Camshaft:
www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Universal-Camshaft-Injection-Sprocket/dp/B07LGXP3VL/
Crankshaft: (attach a long breaker bar to the tool)
www.opentip.com/Schley-Tools-67600-Product-Specification-And-Purchasing-Information-p-4570545.html
@@EXOVCDS hi brother I recently did my water pump and now my car was hard to start usually take one turn after that specific job it would take about 3-5 second to start and the acceleration was bad I use my scanner I got the camshaft position sensor. I Oder the part and I couldn’t find it on my vehicle I came across your video and go back to my car and there’s nothing like that on my vehicle. Every last video I see on here is the same as the vehicle you was working on and my is different from everything last one of them. Mine does not have that sensor behind the timing 😬 and my timing crank sprocket is different as well mine have a 55mm torx in the middle
@@juniorpierre9940 Year, make, model, engine?
If it happened after changing water pump... you have to recheck what you did. Cam & crank alignment is not correct. If you have a distributor... it is probably not correctly timed, Sorry about the late reply... your message was in the spam section.
Hey, is this the same location for a 2017 VW Jetta TSI?
No.
Nice video sir thank you
Thank you and thank you for watching!
That one a pain in the finger !! I said a few curse words for u 👍
Thank you! =)
Hey Thomas, I’m getting a (P0016 Bank 1 CMP Sensor) code on a (Audi A4 2.0 b8) Is this Cam Position Sensor, or Crank Position Sensor? Thanks for all the great Vids.
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16400/P0016/000022
Check cam timing & cam to crank timing.
Would this be the same on the 2012 Volkswagen Jetta s 2.0.? Having trouble finding the location of the cam sensor
Same location... I can see it in this picture:
image.superstreetonline.com/f/40634661+w+h+q80+re0+cr1/eurp-1205-01%2B2012-vw-jetta%2Bcover.jpg
I hope that was helpful.
@@EXOVCDS thank you so much . This helps a lot and now I have a guide for what I need to do. Much appreciated for this
hey Tom.....on my 01 1.8t im getting a 343 immediately when it starts and extended cranking my hot wire is about 11.2v when my battery is at 12.5v all data says the hot wire needs to be at least 11.5v so when it starts it goes way past 11.5v both other wires are good 5.0v and a ringout on the ground and i threw a sensor at it....am i missing something besides the pcm please dont let t be that.......thanks
Sorry about the late reply... just found this post. I think you sorted it out already.
actually just came in from checking like you did and now have a p0341 with 5 to 6 volts showing on mm 341 makes sense with what your numbers were showing and the Amazon one I bought didn't fix it my results are from an old original one cam sensor
Keep in mind that checking sensor output/ voltage, only confirms whether or not the sensor is doing something. If the ECM does not "see" a signal from the cam sensor when it "expects" a signal, it will flag a cam sensor fault (even though the sensor is producing a signal). You need to check cam & crank timing... as well as check for chain stretch / jump or a bad chain tensioner if cam codes persist.
@@EXOVCDS I just got finished with putting on rebuilt head and I did have to put on my cams and I did mess with the timing cause I thought it was off but I made sure it was on before I put it back on maybe check the cams one more time now that ithe head is back on the block
@@Kevin-wy8kc set to TDC and send me pictures of camshaft gear & crankshaft pulley position... so I can see that things line up. Click fkh161 link in the description and then click on tool request to send me the images.
I see the mirror is still alive lol it must be tough! I've never seen that game but I bet my big Brothers played it.
Still loving the mirror.... thank you!
Oh... then you'll get to know many-a games in my future videos, that you can chat with your brothers about! =)
Mines bad, should I change the timing belt and water pump at the same time? 116k
If that's the original belt with 116k, then yes, I would change it.
What year? VW A4's are 15 to 20 years old... I have seen belts that broke at 11 years old. I would change the belt (timing belt & water pump kit) every 6 to 7 years.
Thomas EXOVCDS turns out there’s a creamy color to the engine as well lol she’s getting a whole new one now.
@@3earded_dad430 Sometimes it's just a bad engine oil cooler.
Thomas EXOVCDS how could I tell if it was bad?
Thanks for the help in advance
@@3earded_dad430 Sorry... I should have asked. Creamy color where? Under the oil filler cap or on the dipstick? My oil cooler comment was meant for creamy mix in the coolant reservoir bottle. If your engine coolant is normal color, then the oil cooler is OK. If the coolant is creamy, then follow the steps below.
Disconnect the coolant hoses at the engine oil cooler (above the oil filter) and connect the two hoses together with a suitable pipe / plastic coolant flush "T" fitting (from auto parts store. Run the engine and monitor the exposed pipes of the oil cooler. If the oil cooler is bad, engine oil will come out of one of the pipes.
Nice job, Thomas but i think that's only one paper per house. The repair video was well done too. {:>)
I think you get points for breaking windows! LOL
7:08 😂😂😂 I really shouldn't laugh because it's happened to me and now I've done this it's going to happen to me a lot more but you still funny
Stung link a son of a bitch! All better now though! =)
Stupid question here👋 is this the same as a 2012 vw cc 2.0t ?? And is the crank sensor the same as a cam sensor?🙆🏼♂️🙅🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Not the same engine... not the same sensor.
If you need specifics... let me know.
Thomas EXOVCDS Okay thanks 👍
This was actually My problem all along on My car, taught there were problems with the fuel system, replaced the CPS erased the codes... Drove really hard when testing, car rev'd up clean no more hesitation at and above 5k/rpm, switched off to cool down... Guess what, error reappeared 😒😔
Year, make, model, engine? Which error came back? Cam code or crank code?
@@EXOVCDS hi Thomas, I kinda looked for our last chats on one of Your videos, but could not find it, anyway... Its a 2001 Vw Golf mk4, 1.6 body & ecu, with an import 2.0 8valve Apk nd performance engine , errors I've received were, #1 abs sensor error, #2 lambda error, #3 Cam position Sensor error, I did replace the Cam sensor, didn't have money to replace 0°2 sensor and abs, but had a new "CPS" in my spares, I set the tdc before removing the timing belt, and cam pulley, removed the cam sensor and could see physical damage to the tip on the cam sensor , so I replaced the CPS, reassembled, checked timing again... Top dead centre 👍🏼... Cleared the errors, the sensor was at fault again, went to clear the second time, this time no Cam sensor error, idled the car gave it a few revs it was great, of i went for test driving, the rpm went to redline without ever hesitating, got back parked the car, an hour went by, got in the car again, had performance issues once again, diagnosed again the Cam Position Sensor is back.. I can't remember the code number it threw, will check tomorrow
@@bzarule9605 Check the crankshaft gear... it might be loose / moving on the crankshaft and altering the cam & crank timing.
@@EXOVCDS thanks Thomas, will check that out ASAP
@@bzarule9605 Not an issue if torsion value stays the same... only an issue if torsion value changes / you have to keep resetting it. I only mention it as a possibility.
Road rage that was a good game
Not familiar with it... what year / platform?
Well, shit. Before I decided I’d be able to do this with ease I watched another couple of videos that were clearly mistitled. 2015 Jetta S. I’m guessing my camshaft position sensor is located in this area. And if so, I suppose it may behoove me to replace the timing and serpentine belts at the same time since I just crossed 100,000 miles?
Here's a video of a 2014 Jetta with the old 2.0L engine (such as yours). If the engine looks the same, then yes... you will have to remove the timing belt. 100K miles is way past safe service life already in my opinion. I would change the belt every 65k to 70k miles.
ua-cam.com/video/eRjK3bj8f88/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS I appreciate the quick response. Since I left that comment I had done some more digging and found it. Exactly where it’s shown in the video. A little more than I wanted to get into but I have a garage full of tools and should be able to get it done on my own. I inspected both belts while I was at it, and while visually they seem completely fine I’ll go ahead and replace them. I understand the water pump should likely be swapped out at the same time since I’m already in there. I understand the importance of the timing belt. Any tips on straight up replacing one?
Here's a 2.0L timing belt removal video (installation is in reverse).
ua-cam.com/video/zQNVjPilQzE/v-deo.html
If you have specific questions as-you-go, let me know.
Crack the cam gear bolt loose BEFORE you remove the belt... that way, if the cam gear moves, the crank will move with it and you can turn the cam & crank back to TDC at the same time.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the tips. I’ve never performed this type of repair before, but I’m good enough with the tools that I feel I can do just about anything. I’m a master electrician and master instrument tech with 25 years in the trade including 10 as a FIN nuclear tech, so I’m no dummy, but there is a first for everything. Your insight is appreciated.
The videos I’d watched on the process were clearly wrong and had the sensor on the other side of the block in a far more accessible location. Just watched the wrong videos. I’ll probably let this slide until next weekend now that I’m gonna have to pick up additional parts and replace them all since I’m in there and might as well replace them. I’ll let you know how it works out.
Again, thanks for the help. Very much appreciated.
paper boy 1988 sinclair pc game we played it at home
One of the classics!
How much does that job IT'S WORTH ALL PARTS
Contact this guy, he can give you estimate in your language. ua-cam.com/users/OzMechanics
Is this the same for an aba
ABA sensor is in the distributor. If the timing belt was recently replaced and you have a cam code ever since... then the distributor / rotor is out of position.
Can the engineers make it more difficult to work on their vehicles?
This is an easy one (except for pulling the sprocket off while the belt has tension on it)... anything 2005> have fun, that's why I drive / own cars that are 25+ years old. =)
Is that a ex girlfriend? Nice job Thomas! Thanks
I wish she was. =)
That tire in the paperboy game was not balance properly lol
I know, right?!
@ 5:20 wiggle-wiggle, pull-pull and with my luck, valve/spring tension would make the cam jump 30 degree lol...
At TDC, things are pretty stable.
Hello friend, this is a golf 4 2002 2.0 petrol / gas AZJ engine. For some time now, it has been happening to me that during the first morning start, the car starts up but immediately shuts down, I start it again and everything is fine. Any ignition of the car later in the day is fine, start from the first. I tried to turn on that first morning ignition on gas and the same thing happens. This happens in both summer and winter. Let me mention that I changed the coil, new spark plugs, replaced the cables 3 years ago (beru). Since the same thing happens with gasoline and gas, I guess it's not a pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator. Has anyone had a similar problem and how did they solve it? Thanks in advance.
It could still be petrol pressure / gas pressure for first start. When petrol is not used, it could be that the petrol bleeds back into the fuel tank. When starting the engine the first time... pressure has to build back up, causing a start /stall when starting the first time. Have your tried to "cycle" the ignition key on/off a few times "before" you try to start the engine? If not, try that first. Turn key on/off 3 or 4 times and then try to start the engine. If that does not make a difference, then I don't know what it could be. I do not have any "dual fuel" experience, sorry. As long as the engine starts the 2nd time, I don't think you have to worry about anything. I would have to use a scan tool & oscilloscope to try and determine what is going on.
@@EXOVCDS yes i tried to cycle the ignition key for a couple time before i start a car for a first time.
@@EXOVCDS thanks bro anyway, i am far away from you :).
Let's start from the beginning
Replace the fuel filter and then a fuel arrow pump will arrive and the problem will probably be solved
The video is very good but it some wearied add on like the emanations in the video thanks
I don't understand, sorry.
Is this a diesel?
No. If you tell me what year, model, engine you have... I might be able to be of more help.
I can't help if you don't reply.
QBERT!
Ah... there's a classic!
my gear won't budge!
Sorry to hear... I have not had one stick that bad before. You will have to remove the camshaft with the gear and then you can place the cam & gear in a hydraulic press. Be careful when you lift the camshaft off of the head with the gear... the camshaft sensor tone wheel can damage the camshaft position sensor (that is behind the camshaft gear)... if the tone wheel is sitting inside the cam sensor. Rotate the camshaft / gear until it is clear of the cam sensor, then you can lift / tilt the camshaft out of the head.
@@EXOVCDS I finally saw a gap on the cam shaft got my pry bar down lose and worked it around slow. Then later I had to use cir clip plies to retention the tentioner. Wrapped out to 6grand a few times no horrible noise been stuck at 3k limp mode.for months
Good to hear that you managed to get it off / fixed. Happy reving! =)
is this the same position as a mk 4 2002 2.0? if so fml .... lol
Title says VW A4... A4 is the 4th generation of the A platform, so yes.... mk4.
so the guy who tells me it is 5 hours of work is wrong
Sensor alone does not take that long. If the timing belt is more than 6-7 years old, I'd replace it, the water pump, tensioner along with the sensor. Maybe that's what he is figuring on doing.
I take it you got fired from paper delivery the first day :))
Yup. LOL
If you aint bleedn, you aint workin!
And paper cuts don't count! LOL
Wow thats a pain in the ass if u need a new cam position sensor!!
There are worse designs.
Thomas EXOVCDS
probably, i got to this video because i wanted to see the location of the part, its screwed on the cilinderhead right? I went to a garage to make a cilinderhead swap from a
06b 103 373A head to a
050 103 373 head and apparently it doesnt have the sensor like the 06b
@@monoracer_ I'm still at work... I'll get back to you later tonight.
I'm not familiar head part numbers.
What year vehicle & engine are you working on?
Thomas EXOVCDS
Thomas EXOVCDS the head is for a 2012 caddy ecofuel 2.0l 8v engine code is bsx. the head came from an older audi 1.6 8v engine code: aft/aks
Gave the 100th thumb up!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Who is that screaming woman?
Future wife?
Fk man this is the knuckle busting shit job I'm up to? God damn I hate my VW
What doesn't kill us... makes us stronger (gain more experience).
Stick to fixing cars, paperboy isn't the occupation for you 🤣😂
I couldn't play games all day... well, ok, for $100k+ a year, I'll do anything!