How to Insulate When The Back of The Siding is Exposed
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
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A common remodel problem today as we team up with emeraldandlaurel.com to tackle the issue and bring it back to modern standards
Architecture on this project by:
Jen Hill of CDK Architects
www.cdkarchitects.com/
/ cdk-architects-1963313...
Go follow Emily on Instagram - / emeraldandlaurel
/ risingerbuild
www.mattrisinger.com
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors USG/Tremco, Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Marvin Windows, Rockwool & Endura for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds.
www.Securockexoair.com/en.html
www.Dorken.com
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www.Marvin.com
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Our house is 123 years old. Doing a lot of research on insulating old homes. Ty for this video.
Good information and detail, I can't imagine how many builders would put this much consideration or effort into those insulation details, so much to keep in mind.
Thank you!!!!!!!!!! This is 100% what I was looking for in order to retrofit a 1917 four square in Dallas. It was originally a covered porch that was enclosed and I had no idea what to do. The contractors I originally hired just put up rolled insulation and no moisture barrier and in a rain storm water got in and I had a mold problem. I have been searching all day for a solution. You are my new hero!!!! Now if I could only figure out how to make the sub floor run from wall to wall to fix the air gust problem....
Thanks Matt for taking the time to do all your videos. I really enjoy them, and I learn a lot!!!!!! The techniques you showed here would also seem to be good solutions for people converting sheds into cabins.
This is SO helpful!! I’ve been looking for informative videos regarding this info everywhere and no one has given an actual detailed realistic option. So appreciated!!
I'm glad I came across this video. I am getting ready to do the exact same process with Rockwool in my house, and I wanted to see if anybody else had come up with a similar idea. Turns out, it was the great Matt Risinger! Now I'm definitely not second guessing the extra expense.
Some really good points on old home remodels. I'm glad you made this video.
Thank you Matt. I was just contemplating what to do in my piecemeal remodel and this is perfect. Love the videos. Keep them coming.
Great information!
Great choices to choose from.
You covered alot of "bases"!
I love THESE multi choice videos.
God Bless and Thanks!
I just LOVE the way you end your videos. The way you say "the build show!!!" is just hilarious. It makes me want to see the next!
ON a 100 yr old home in KC we drove nails along the 2x6 studs about 1 inch from ext sheathing and then put in 1/2" ployisocyanurate 3.2 R, cuts easy and tight, then caulked. After sheetrock holes were bored and they pumped in cellulose.
Would that work in the northeast?
Wow, fantastic attention to detail. Nice!
Matt, thank you for all your videos.
Excellent advise. Sums up best practices using multiple methods.
I sprayed primer on the back of my bare 1870's siding, used high density R-15 fiberglass batts and a plastic film vapor barrier. I was worried about our NC humidity, and thought about not caulking a siding overlap top and bottom, but didn't. Took all the paint off the outside, sanded & scraped to fresh wood (not gray), brushed on 50/50 linseed oil/thinner, then primed and painted. Biggest problem in 18 years has been the window sills. And my back.
think i'm going to try this with my 200 year old house.. we are currently taking off the sheetrock to insulate and rewire... i can't paint the outside though due to it being covered with really well installed vinyl and foam board.. i guess it would still dry out from the outside if i painted the inside of the wood and caulked and then used fiberglass batts and plastic vapor barrier then sheetrock.. .? what do you think..
Wish I had seen this years ago when I had the same situation.
Thumbs up for more collaboration with Emily.
awesome collaboration, Ive seen many that don't even think about vapor and condensation, you do great work, If you where around my area I would recommend you for the projects I don't have time to tackle. I might even hire you to build a house for me, lol. Great work, Great attitude. keep it up.
Great video Matt. I’ve recently discovered one of those Japanese pull saws (the kind with a saw on both sides of the blade) works really well for cutting spray foam. It’s super flexible, so you can get the blade flat with the studs and it’s sharp enough that you get a nice clean cut.
Great call. I’ll remember that tip!
Great idea using the spray foam to seal around the rigid sheets!
I've wondered how you use rigid foam insulation. Never dreamed you'd use spray foam with it. Great video!
Hey Matt, really like your takes on concepts that are new to me like vapors drive and air sealing. I’ve been in a dilemma weighing between allowing part of wall cavities to breathe, like how the scuba pipes were used in the top plate in this video, and reducing the effectiveness of fire stops. I am probably not understanding it fully and wanted to get your take on it. Thanks
This is great mini series. I have a 1900 house in Michigan that some day I would want to insulate. With the hole idea of closed cell foam I've been wondering what a good solution would be. This gives me some knowledge to compare with what local contractors may suggest.
After Hurricane Harvey, I saw a brick home where the home owner had removed everything from the exterior wall, even the exterior particle board and house wrap. They had left only the Studs and the exterior brick. (there had been 6 to 8 foot of water in the house). And I have often wondered what the proper method to reseal and re-insulate that house would be, considering there *should* be brick ties nailed to each of the studs at staggered locations?
This video gave me some hope that the flooded homeowner was able to successfully reseal their house without completely removing the exterior brick. Thanks again for an informative video.
I am so glad I found this video! I'm currently converting a shed for a seasonal campground cabin on the central coast of Texas (off-grid, outside shower, w/gen power for a mini-fridge & window AC, a propane cooktop & ventless heater for winter...not intended for full-time living, just more than a tent).
Anyway; with the brutally hot, humid summer and bitter, wet wind in winter, I have been looking for an effective & inexpensive way to insulate so as to not cause mold accumulation in the structure...this video convinced me that I'm on the right track!
Currently, there's 2x4 SYP#2 walls @ 16oc with a treated bottom plate & double top plates for a full 96in height, floors are 2x6 treated SYP @16oc with 5/8 LP shed floor & the roof is 2x4FW trusses @24oc. There's 5/8 50yr LP Smartsiding on the walls, the roof has 7/16 LP radiant OSB with 30yr metal R-pnl & vented ridge & eaves on 3:12 slope. But; there's no WAB or external felting on the structure at all.
I thought about 1-2" of CC Foam for walls, floor & roof but was concerned about the building "breathing" since it IS designed to be a shed...also, even just an inch of CC would be quite expensive when you consider 1700ft2 of wall, floor & roof area would have to be done at ~$3.50/ft2 and it wouldn't even give a great R-value return (
Not sure if you'll see this two years later but this is almost my exact setup on my workshop shed other than I have the LP Smartside with added radiant barrier on the walls also along with the silver bubble wrap insulation under my osb floor. No current water or vapor barrier. I too was thinking of going foam board with at least the minimum 3/4" air gap for radiant barrier then cover with plywood for my interior walls. Did you end up with the course of action you described above? Any issues?
@@greybonner2043 being on the coast; I still had moisture through the floor (& walls a bit). But, using plywood in lieu of a paper-based interior sheathing did avoid any mould issues...had to install a moisture balance/removal unit tbough.
Also, it's cray to have someone respond to a 2yr old comment...I wish you success in your endeavor; just know it can only be a short-term thing [1-3yrs] before you'll need to do major reinvestment. :D
Thanks for explaining differences. Good video.
I'm a little late to the party, but wanted to send a huge thanks for posting this video. Currently dealing with a very similar situation in a 1942 East Texas home. Gutted the kitchen about two weeks ago and was literally walking out the door to go to the hardware store this AM to buy 6 mil plastic and kraft-papered fiberglass insulation. Second-guessed myself (and the guy from the local hardware store) and checked your channel for related videos. Luckily found this one! Still went to the hardware store to check similar products/options, but didn't find anything that resembled Delta Dry and wasn't impressed with the alternatives to Delta Vent S. So, I am ordering the Delta products! Going to do this job right! Anyways... Keep up the great work and please keep those product recommendations coming. Sometimes knowing WHAT to buy is the hardest part. The rest is usually easy, thanks to proper/professional advice from people like you. Thanks for all you do, sir!
" Sometimes knowing WHAT to buy is the hardest part. " This!
answered the question I was wondering how to do correctly,thanks👍
Thank you Matt, I've learned a lot from you!
This was awesome, I just purchased a similar property and this gives me something to think about... I still think I'll go with external insulation though.
good stuff! I always worry about hiring a contractor that doesn't know this information and the install doesn't get done correctly
Hi Matt, I’m redoing my basement from water damage. I’ve got a really high water table in my location. I’m constantly working on trying to make sure no water gets in. I’ve got a drain tile system on the outside of the house. As soon as the weather permits it I’m hauling in dirt to help with drainage away from the house. I’ve put in a back flow preventer and shut off valve for my septic system since we had the septic tank collapse years ago and flooded the basement. I just had my concrete floor cracks sealed and epoxy put on the floor and up the walls 6”. My house is a split level so the bottom 4’ are against a cinder block wall. In the 80’s when these were built they used 2 x 2’s for studs. To get the epoxy to fill everything I removed the bottom boards. They were mostly rotted anyway. I replaced them with green treat 2 x 2’s. I’ve only got and inch and half to fit insulation in and spray foam is out of my budget . Should I fill the whole cavity with foam board then vapor barrier finish up with green board taped and textured? What are your thoughts? Maybe only use 1” foam board to allow for air flow between the foam board and brick?
I bought a wood shed with a loft I would like to insulate mainly to use as a workshop but overflow sleeping too. It has a couple of air vents near the roof ridge so I think the lower cost options will work great.
Matt, Thank you for posting about this old remodel, I'm currently renovating the bathroom and laundry room in my 1950's slab ranch in Michigan because of mold and water damage and it's super helpful. I watch every video and am trying to talk my wife into closed cell foam prices lol.
Is there anywhere I could as a diy guy, get consultations for best practices?
Love these videos. I have learned so much.
Now that I have given praise; it’s time for some criticism
Those are not the original 1940’s windows
I would use modern insulated windows w non thermal bridge frames that mimicked the look of the original 1940’s windows with wood cladding & mullions.
Really interesting video, and it's a topic that is near and dear to my heart. In my area (Hot and humid Atlanta), I run into this problem a lot... old house, no cladding, no insulation, siding in OK shape.
Thoughts -
0) There's no building inspector here that wouldn't slap me senseless for creating a fire block/break problem with the snorkel solution. Blocking between floors/vertically is gospel, at least here.
1) The extent of air movement behind the old plaster and lathe was confined to the void between the stud bays
2) There was no air movement from crawl space to attic through the stud bays, the siding held up well for many decades
3) If you install a baffle holding the insulation off the siding, you now have a void much like the void that was there when the house was built
4) Why go through additional steps with an extra layer?
5) Why not use a simpler baffle system? Seems to me that the MS-Dry would be plenty adequate by itself, as it's classified as a water barrier... to the best of my knowledge, it is not vapor permeable. What is gained by adding another vapor permeable layer on top of it? (Maybe you're using a different product, but it looks to me like MS-Dry... IE: A product that can be used for foundation waterproofing)
As always, I appreciate your work and the thought effort that goes into solutions. This is a problem that isn't discussed nearly enough amongst remodeler.
Amazing explanation
Building science nerd level 10!! Wow, really impressed with the solution you came up with. Very impressive.
High compliment! Thanks
thanks for posting!!! so little info on this kind of stuff
Well said, easy to understand.
Those scubas are brilliant!!! WOW!
They are also experimental. This has probably never been done before so time will tell if it is effective. Which is the way with a good deal of building science. You can hypothesize, but you'll truly never know until its been tried in the field.
I'm seeing u everywhere lol. Love your videos!
I don't understand why they are so long, and I find it hard imagine air being able to flow through these long tubes.
I live in Iowa and we talked all wires going into the attic to prevent air from coming down the hall and out the receptacle or switch plates
This is what I need for my house. fortunately I haven't started any wall or ceiling work
Great video, thanks
Excellent!
Interesting. I have a 100+ year old house with no insulation and no vapor barrier in the mountains of North Carolina. So I was eager when you mentioned this video as upcoming in your last video. I love watching your videos. I know your focus is Texas and the south. Some of your videos include asides about northern climates. I would really love to hear just a bit more in each video on this since you have such a widespread geographical audience. In this video, if this house were in the north, what would change for you, if anything.
Would you still install DELTA S on the inside of the exterior wall (and tape seal) with mineral wool insulation in northern climates? It seems like the air/vapor barrier (like Membrain) should be on the sheetrock side of the mineral wool.
I'm late to this video but wondered what the thought if rather than wood siding you have a brick wall? Would this process apply? Thanks for the great videos.
Question about insulating interior walls, specifically, walls adjacent to a steam room. Do you treat the walls surrounding the steam room like an exterior wall? What if you only have access to the inside off the stud bay within the insulation room, but not access from behind the wall.
Great, great episode. I really enjoy the outside-the-box thinking to solving the problem. Curious why you would need to use an air/water barrier if you use the closed cell foam?
Good point. You need something to keep the foam from filling the air gap but with the closed cell you could use a cheaper wrap.
In the U.K. we put a moisture barrier on the warm side of the insulation to stop the hot moist air getting into the wall and causing damp and mould inside the wall. We worry that the moist air will hit due point inside the wall.
I'm about to tackle this problem in one bedroom in my home. I've cut 3/4" x 3/4" spacers to nail up tight against the siding in the corners of the stud bay to create the air gap. I'll then place 1" rigid foam boards the length and width of the bay over the spacers and foam them in place. The final step will be to compress fiberglass batts into the remaining stud depth.
I was planning to do the same but I have the whole house to do.
Why couldn't the plastic rafter venting be used?
5:05 "poor man's spray foam" when those 4 x 8 sheets are 30 to 50 bucks each for the thicker ones. Yikes.
The spray foam is thousands and thousands of dollars
Thank you for a great video.
I live in the PNW and have 3 sides of my house sided in T-111. I bought the home 1.5 years ago. I have replaced some of the T-111 because of rot on the bottom edge and found the vapor barrier intact but wet. I am worried that there is water damage in other areas of the walls. If I decide to replace the T-111 with new siding, what would be a good way to install new insulation from the outside if it is compromised by moisture?
With the rockwool, I thought the Delta was vapor permiable and the rockwool is vapor permiable, so wouldn't that lead to moisture on the back of the sheetrock?
We just bought an 1850 farmhouse and have had to full gut thank's to nasty insulation failing.. as we pulled out the leftover crumbs we can see 2x12 timber vertically and vinyl siding through the cracks applied directly to that. No wonder the fiberglass failed. We are in Western Virginia and it is a very humid environment. This seems like it could be a great option for us. Do you have a detailed written list of the items used with Rockwool? If we have airflow due to the vertical boards (not horizontal, and there are gaps with the rough lumber.. Would we need the holes? Thats @MattRisinger!
I think this is what I need to do for my old house. Need the air gap so the moisture can dry, but definitely still want to insulate
Why do you need to use the delta vent vapor and water barrier? Wont 2 inches of spray foam be an air and vappr barrier?
amazing!
Hey Matt. I'm renovating my flat roof kitchen and I'm down to studs and rafters. I'm having to replace the OSB sheathing (nailed to the original T&G boards) and EPDM membrane. I've been in touch with Dorken (your videos introduced me to their products...thanks) and the Canadian rep I spoke with thought your wall application of Delta-Dry and Delta-Vent was sound. (I'm in Zone 6) but he wasn't sure about me using the wall application for the attic. How would you insulate the 12" deep attic when the original decking is currently visible from the kitchen?
good stuff!!
2:44 With no crawlspace, do you mean drill holes in the siding for each stud bay (or can you get away with every 2 or 3 since the siding isn't flush with the studs)? I'm in New England and looking to insulate a garage without replacing the existing siding.
I live in a cape cod style house with siding like this and the upstairs is FLAMING HOT during the Summer in California
Have a 1940’s Cape myself… addressing some exterior wall insulation and attic insulation / ventilation and it def requires research! The Cape design is a mixed bag in terms of energy efficiency IMHO.
Yes, I realize this post is a couple years old 😊
Matt, since this video is a few years old now...is the Delta wrap still preferred? Could I use Delta Reflexx on interior walls? Thank you!
I have an old two story farm house built in 1901 located in Northeast Ohio. It has balloon framing with Shiplap siding. There is vinyl siding overtop of that. When I tore off the plaster and lathe there was no insulation and exposed bare wood of the Shiplap siding as I expected. I was planning on adding fire block between the floors. Would you recommend the methods of insulation you discussed in this video or are there different methods for my scenario?
like always great video
What do you do when someone has drilled electric through the stud wall and plumbing lines over the past 50 years- I mean it’s pretty terrible. There was a water leak and the insulation they stuffed up there I just removed on the lower part of the wall, black mold and all. I used chromobium (sorry about the spelling) to kill it. The structure was an old holding area for horses on the Pony Express that was separated by shoddy 2x4 walls, creating two little apartments or bungalows, if you will, (or hot, horrible vapor ridden structures). I am in California and I will contact Dorkin. Thanks. Great advice on the video,
Just found this video...any updates to products, or methods as this is 5 years old now? Was looking for something exactly like this on my own home for remodeling and making it more insulated.
Is it possible to do something similar in an attic under an existing traditional 50 year asphalt shingle to convert the bulk of the attic space to conditioned airspace. I'm in the humid south, newer 50 year roof but have a heat pump in the attic and would like to extend the envelope for that reason.
Would you recommend this method for a board and batten house w fiber board sheathing (lots of gaps) and no house wrap?
I got a 1920s house and it did not have any tar paper what I want to know is if I use the system that you are referring to here do I necessarily have to drill the holes in the top and bottom plates and do I need to place tar paper on the cladding before installing the Delta dry.. I'm in the south by the way
Okay, but the cavity beside the windows is for the sash weights, which make a huge difference in how easy the windows are to open. If you fill them with insulation as you have, won't the windows not work as well as they would otherwise?
when installing delta vent s . does the product has two side one for air and one for water or do you have to put 2 different layer to get both protection from water and air
I have this similar exterior on my house but the original owner put asbestos siding over the wood siding. Would it make sense that the R15 batt insulation with a 6 mil air barrier on the inside would be sufficient for my application?
I have a very similar situation however my intention is to leave the wood siding on the inside as is. There will be no sheetrock what have you clean and possibly stain/seal. Home/Cabin >600sq' in going to metal side and stucco radiant barrier Ca fire zone. Any suggestions have yet to find anything.
+Matt Risinger, I know you’re always looking down the road. I’m curious how your solution might play into a siding replacement if required in the future. Would it just be a matter of sheeting the exterior and adding another moisture barrier before any new siding was installed? Thank you.
Had the same question
What about a continuous vent at the top and bottom of the wall cavity from the outside. That would eliminate the pipes and holes in the top and bottom plates. Then install blocking in the cavity to provide airspace and use some thin rigid material like 1/2" foam board and then the closed cell foam.
I looked through the comments to see if anyone was thinking the same as me, that's you. Seems like it would provide all the same benefits at a lower cost. I think it would be cheaper to just use 2" foam board which is r10 and cans of spray foam gap filler around the edge of the foam to seal the foam board in place.
I would love to know a update on this house and the insulation of the walls I am thinking of doing this and would like to know if it worked
I no am looking for the video you referred to about insulating from outside while saving original wood siding. Can you provide that link? Also, are materials installed in this video installed in the same order. In cold northern climate?
This is probably my 10th time watching this now. What good is taping the Delta in the Rockwool assembly? Wouldn't vapor still go through the fabric and the Rockwool? Is the dimple mat permeable?
My house is in the Austin, TX area and built exactly the same. Is there any issue with removing exterior trim and windows, wrapping over the old siding and installing new siding over that? Also, if the tar paper is in good shape, is there any need to do any of this, or can I just bat insulate and call it a day?
Thanks for the info. Sadly finding the delta products is super hard to find. Wish you had shown some alternative Products.
Any vapor permeable house wrap should work. I’m doing this in a northern climate and need to identify where I can get some air flow before the air barrier layer.
Just found this. I’m planning to insulate a 40 year ould detached garage with 2x6 framing on a concrete slab. I’m planning to use Rockwool and then drywall the interior. After seeing this my biggest challenge is how to vent the wall cavity? I’m in Central Oregon with hot dry summers and with rainy and extremely cold (at times) winters Zone 5. I just plan to heat to 50F or so. Any suggestions would be great??!!
Man that is allot of work.... Removing the siding and wrapping the house with building wrap/etc.. seems easier. However the products showcased an were pretty sweet. :-)
could you use this method for walls in a crawlspace up north?
How would you do this on a 2 story old house without creating a flow path for fire threw the stud cavity?
I’ve wanted to learn this for ten years, so thank you both! How can you get airflow when the house sits on a slab with no crawl space?
You would vent directly through the cladding top and bottom.
Can you please explain what you mean by vent through the cladding ?
@@ChitownMilcrib Drill holes in the cladding for air to go through.
@@buildshow trying to wrap my head around this… So there are holes on the outside of the house above the bottom plate and below the top plate? how do you manage water intrusion? or do you just let it flow and dry out eventually?
Can closed cell foam be used right against the siding? If theres an exterior vapor barrier
I'm renovating a wood siding house in Florida and just open cell foamed some exterior walls and attic and closed cell foam crawl space, should I be worried about wood rot now? Please help.
Mat: that dimple matt looks to be vapor impermeable. If so why would you need a air barrier over the dimple mat if you're using close cell to seal the dimple mat to the studs. In fact the closed cell is also an air barrier so again why would you need that black paper over the dimple mat?
Because Dorken is paying him to sell more of their Delta products.
I think they are porous.
He doesn't need the dimple mat either. The sheathing is already "breathing" to outside. Just spray foam would've been enough, in fact better since they'd have had more space to fill with foam. This is a ridiculous video.
@@barisay7244 You're not supposed to spray the foam directly onto the inside of siding. Even if it makes air flow a non issue, it would wreck the siding if you ever needed to remove the siding, or even bow it while its still on. So you at least need the black paper in that case if you weren't worried abt bowing. But if you do it the 'poorman' way, with no spray foam, you do probably need the dimple mat, or at least wood spacers for siding breathing if you are gunna worry abt siding breathing
@@wizzlet6821 I said sheathing, which is the layer that is under the siding.
Matt Your videos are the best. Can I say that a little more introduction to the project would be really helpful. Like the diagnosis and then the cure. A brief overview would really make us understand the reasoning for all this. House style, owners interests, problems, codes, costs and cure. This looks like over kill but it could be in a swamp Thanks again for all your hard work on these videos. They are really informative and well done
Loganbay in a previous video he covers most of these topics.. It would be hard to get authorization (from owner+different builder) to post all the particulars, most like some privacy.
I understand but this is lot of extra attention to an issue that cost the owners a lot more money. If the owners had issues with allergies to mold or had to keep the house really cold for some reason it would make more sense. These are great ideas but who pays for all those materials and extra steps unless there is an issue. It would add so much more to how to really tackle this forever.
Nice solution. Interior rainscreen.
Exactly!
@@buildshow We have this situation on a renovation but it is slab on grade so we can't vent the plate at the bottom in the closed cell spray foam option, would this still work or do you advise against? Northern Cali Thank you
This seems similar to my situation & I'm hoping you can give me an opinion. I'm on the S. Coast of Mass. I've got a 1790s house where I'm gutting the kitchen interior to the back side of the plank siding (shingle exterior with old tar paper in between). I'm also replacing the windows. I have rock wool insulation I was going to install. There's a crawl space with a stone foundation which has fiberglass insulation underneath the subflooring (1" plank, 3/4" ply & I'm adding 1/4" cement board, QuietWarmth radiant heating under 1/4" ceramic tile)
My question; would it be beneficial to add Tyvek or a similar barrier on the inside of the walls between the rock wool & the siding? Would it be best to use a product like the Delta dry you use here? I can possibly vent tp the crawl space but there is a finished 2nd floor room which will not allow me to add the "snorkels" you use here.
I get it, but the snorkels nullify the top plate acting as the fire blocking. Code would require fireblocking from the vertical stud bay to the attic area.
I’m also curious about the fire considerations
I would think drilling those holes in the top and bottom plate would give the same effect as fire in a balloon frame house. Fire can go from inside of the walls straight to the attic with no fire block to slow it down.
Maybe the difference between old construction and all new construction re code? maybe not required on remodels.
This job would be a level 3 alteration according to the International Existing Building Code and would require fire-blocking be installed if exposed. If there is an existing top plate... not balloon framing, then the "fire-blocking" already exists and then would not be able to breach. Don't get me wrong, this guy definitely knows what he is doing.
@Kelley Dragstrem I was wondering the same. If doing all the steps ,minus the weird hole drilling and tube install. Would that be sufficient air flow?
Could you add 2x2s to the 4x4 for a 6 inch stud?
@Nooneinparticular987 it's called staggered stud framing
Matt, Long shot for a response on an old video but here goes nothing. in this video you mention if you didn't have a crawlspace to vent to, you'd vent directly out of the siding. Could you explain what that would look like and how you may moisture protect the opening? Would it matter if the siding was OSB T1-11? Thanks and keep up the great work.
Did you ever get an answer to this? I have a cabin with the exact same question
@@theredcabin I did not. However I followed this method and told myself if moisture can get in so can air and it will dry out. I hopefully plan to re sheath and re side my mother in law suite one day and it will no longer be an issue.
LMAO, the lady talked for about a minute, Matt talked through out the whole clip. Funny how she was just chilling next to Matt. Like saying "can I say something" lol
Matt, thank you so much for posting this video. I am renovating my 1908 Foursquare in Portland Oregon and have it down to the studs right now. I've been struggling to figure out how to handle this exact issue and your video has definitely helped me decide on how to proceed forward! I'm interested in using the Dorken Products you highlighted in the video but I have no idea where to source them from. Are these products even available to a DIY home owner?
Thanks again, your content is some of my favorite on UA-cam.
i dun search spycor gutts it anna ordered tape two try
Ive got a situation now, Ive been putting off, Its a old house with gorgeous stone (cut) superb craftsman ship,,, similar , no insulation,, no water/ moisture barier,, needles to say the wall framing is all but rotted,, I'm thinking of just shoring the roof,,, completely demo of the walls,,, and re frame walls, in sections, with structural sheathing and atart a new,,, im debating about possibly setting the new walls inside to allow more space by a few inches between the back of the stone work,, and the wall,, then someway filling the entire cavity with closed cell,,, realazing no drainage plane would be available and hoping for the best,,lol,,, still not sure .. there is a point that the cost to save an elementt of a house is more than the cost of replacement,, just hate to see the perfect craftsmanship of this old stone work go to the dump... decisions , decisions,, I need to study on this delimma a little more ,,, good video btw,
Very inspirational! Would it be a good idea to vapor barrier over the 2x4s? Would use more material...
If you're in a cold, drier climate... I would, but for the humid, hot region of Texas, it'd probably create a mold pocket. I wouldn't put type-X gyp on the exterior either around here...maybe Green board up in central Texas, but I'm on the coast & wouldn't even try that down here...
@@NunYaO do you like the videos solution for coastal homes? I have a 1897 home on the coast.
this is like every house in Houston build before 1970. old siding is ok but there is no insulation between the studs. if the exterior is brick, do you still need the scubas at the top?
I have a similar (but different) situation with a historic coach house that I am turning into an insulated workshop and would love some advice. I want to keep the historic exterior board and baton siding but there is no weather barrier. The structure is not 2x4 framed though, it is a pole and beam structure. My plan is to make the structure stiffer by framing out in between the 20' gaps between the poles. Can I use the simple mats and weather barriers against the exterior cladding before framing or do I need to frame it first as with this example? I am wondering if not having the framing in the way would give me an advantage.