One thing about the tamiya bodies/cars: they look true to scale. No distortion like other makers, when you finish it, it looks like the real vehicle. The Ford GT and Merc GT-3 look amazing.
I agree with your description of the TT02. It's a very good car. I the U.S. there are a lot of on road tracks that have a TT02 Class. The rules vary slightly from track to track. On Tower Hobbies site the cheapest version, as you said, is the Subaru BRZ. But, there are many under $130. It probably won't make any difference in Australia, but Tower allows you to use their discount codes on the TT02's. The TT02 kits come with a motor and esc which is a bonus. I can't keep track of all the different TT02 chassis models. I am glad you brought attention to this car.
100% the TL-01 and TT-01/02 are great for people who like to build and not necessarily go racing. I built a number of TL-01's as shelf queens just because they are fun to build. The tamiya bodies and decals are number 1 IMO, I've never had an issue with a poor molding job. The instructions are bang on, and if you aren't the type to fiddle with super tiny details and gluing, they are a way to "run" your model after you build it. If you don't? They make great saturday afternoon builds. If you like painting, you can go wild with painting custom paint jobs and with water slide decals you can print yourself, you can add sponsors and decals that you make yourself. 100% the bearing kits are ridiculously cheap now. Back in the day a bearing kit would cost $100, now I think they are like $20? (CDN).
@@RCTNT Not so much with the TT line but the lower end kits from Tamiya, yes. They're exactly as you say: good beginner kits for someone who doesn't want to spend a ton of dough. The thing is, these days you can get a radio, receiver, esc, and servo for $70.00, back in the day that's what an esc would cost you. I think a dumbo r/c would be perfect for these kits. These would be a great kit if you had a bunch of kids (aka 40 yr old dads) who wanted to race for fun, have a kind of IROC challenge where you all get the same chassis, but you have a choice of radios servos and esc. Then as you progress you could then allow upgrades like tires, shocks, diffs and stuff and still be at a reasonable price.
@@RCTNT Not a lot of clubs around where I live. I've actually thought about starting up a PLRC (parking lot racing club) but the issue now is stores are open on sundays so there's not a day when the lot isn't being used. Back when I was a teen/20 something stores weren't so the lots sat empty.
That was the case for my local places in the 90s, largely too. We've gained convenience at the cost of peace; not the best deal. That kind of club would be cool tho.
I have had my tt02 (rally) for 2 years now. the half-shafts tends to pop out on grippy surfaces. tires have an amazing wear life and traction all troughout it. I had a 4300kv on 3s in mine and went back to a faster than stock brushed motor. bearings are probably the best upgrade i have made. I drive it a lot during summer and it does drive amazing. ( I do have thicker grease in the diffs) Another part i would recommend is the universal spur gear mount, it allows to use standarts gears from other kits. I would reccommend the car for anyone, experienced or beginner, and will definitly buy a second one this summer!
They are a lot of fun to run around! I don't do much on-road stuff but I do have a few of these and I love driving them! I would love to drive on around a track like that all by myself!! I am a little jealous of that! For the price they are great driving and wonderfully detailed bodies too!
@@RCTNT I have seen those racing and the are a lot more of a handful to drive! I would love to have the Buggyra Fat Fox truck, it looks so good, but the stickers on there are ridiculous!!
Up until recently I didn't give these Tamiya kits much of a look. I wish they didn't have phillips head screws but everything else about them seems fun. Their bodies are top notch and they are fun little cars to drive. I'm sure you've had them on your channel before, but if AGFRC servos are affordable on Amazon or somewhere for you, they make a great servo. I have a couple in my crawlers and recently tried one of their low profile brushless options (B44BLS V2) in my new drift kit. Programmable center and reversable direction is such a cool option on the servo itself 😁
Hey Andy, you can always get a set of hex screws for these chassis. They are easy enough to find. A more cost-effective way is to find a screw count (any of the screw sets should have it) and buy them separately, on your own, as they usually come in even numbers, the unused ones will also become spares for other similar kits.
@@YoShImUrA53 Oh nice! I wasn't sure if they were machine thread or the wood screw type thread. I have a collection of M3 from building crawler stuff so I might already have what's needed 😁
@@Andy_Yates the Tamiya hardware is made to be used with a JIS type of screwdriver. They are substantially easier to put together if you have the correct tips (Tamiya also sell a tool set - albeit expensive -) which apparently is really nice
@@YoShImUrA53 Awesome, thank you again! Thankfully having worked on cars in the past, I have a good set of Philips screwdrivers and keep a #1 in the room here. Having said that, I'd invest in that Tamiya set knowing the exist 🤙
Oh cool! Well, these are big on the detail side of things - needs patience to pull it off well, which I've failed at somewhat. But the nice thing about Tamiya's PS rattle cans is that they make you look good, even when you botch the job like I did here (oversprayed the copper first layer by like 200%) - still comes out at least presentable, if not how you wanted. Definitely worth having a go!
I might get one. I have 2 wpl c24, one built. Scx24 kind of built/stock. WLtoys 1:32 little drift/rally car. I am thinking my first 1:10 should be this Straight up old school Basic Chassis system. I have trails smooth and plenty of parking lots. My crawling place i could make a little track for it. Or a basher. Rather just put a kit together hahahaha.
Thanks :) Paints used are at 0:41 in the video: PS-1 (white), PS-35 (blue violet), PS-14 (copper) and PS-31 (smoke). Method was to spray a little of the sparkly stuff on first (that's PS-14 (copper), but I over-egged it on the corners. Still came out okay thankfully!). Then, PS-35 (blue violet) went on in a bunch of layers, then finished with PS-1 (white). Peeled the window masks off, did the PS-31 (smoke), then peeled the windshield mask off and did another light smoke all round.
Heh sorry about that. Yes, you spray a little of the sparkly stuff on first, then lightly do the next colour, then paint as normal with the main colour.
Really awesome car! Love that Supra body . I’ve been thinking of getting this kit to build myself . It’s a good buy! Think if I do this I’m gonna do A Datsun 240z or a blue bird body . Thanks for your build tips my friend . Will utilize when I build one! Cheers🍻😎
Nothing wrong with what you're using. I'm using similar stuff, though I think I swapped my ESC out for a brushed Traxxas combo I had spare. You can use very cheap to very expensive stuff in these cars and you'll feel the difference with the better stuff. But cheap is fine too :)
I ordered this kit a few days ago with a few steering upgrades, oil shocks and of course ball bearings! Gonna run it with a decent 10kg servo (SPT5410lv) and a quicrun sensored 10,5t since I'm curious about sensored vs sensorless which I already have. The kit itself was actually only $85 which was too good to pass up. It's going to be my first decent on-road car, and also first time painting and decaling a body which will be interesting. Did you set this up with regular or high clearance build? I'm worried in regular it might snag on uneven parts on basketball courts or astroturf football fields where I'll start running it on.
Gee, that's gonna have some boogie! I don't know this but I suspect you'll end up needing metal diff gears. The fibre plastic gears are good, but I dunno if they'll take a 10.5T brushless system for long. One way to find out I guess! I set up standard clearance, with the track being this car's destination. You could always start with high clearance and see if it's clearing everything. Dropping it lower is only a few screws to change, and/or spring spacers. Enjoy! Great value aren't they :)
@@RCTNT Yeah only time will tell about the plastic diffs, I read about people running 4000+kv on-road with stock diffs without issues so I thought I'd give it a go. Also what would you suggest instead of hot glue at the front to prevent debris getting stuck in there? Maybe glue a thin sheet of plastic over the front if there is room under the steering arms?
4000kv eh? That's a hopeful sign! Regrading debris, I don't think I'd worry about it, period. After your runs just invert and shake, or blow with compressed air if you have handy access to a compressor. If it really bothers you, a neatly cut fibre tape/body tape layer over the holes should last pretty well, I'd think.
@@RCTNT Did you put diff oil inside the diffs instead of grease without issues of the oil leaking out? What thickness of oils would you recommend for my setup?
I think i just went with grease, to start with. The car doesn't have enough power to need more. However with big power you might find heavy oil in the front diff at least could be helpful, like 100k or more. I'm guessing. Test and see.
I'm watching this just for you Craig. I despise Tamiya for lack of innovation and turning into body licencing brand, and actually being responsible for the whole licensing issue. I don't comprehend how they managed to screw this up so badly for everyone? Using a true body on a toy is a driving advert for the car manufacturer and drives sales up or keeps model/brand sentiment. Being able to get a toy version of your real car, drives RC car sales up. YET Tamiya managed to get us to situation where the money flows only one way, for bidirectional advantage situation. Why is there a need for money exchange whichever way in this situation? Tamiya is the reason IMO. They should have never agree to pay, and keep looking for manufacturers that will just say "OK" for joint benefit.
Well, I appreciate your support! Thank you for laying out your argument about this, it's not something I'd considered before. I'll look into the history myself as I'd like to know more. Thank you for all the detail and again, for your kind support.
Well maybe I shouldn't state it as facts, but they are most likely oldest RC company, that became so big, that they had aces in their sleeves. They could play their cards much better, due to how many sales they had worldwide, which was another value for markets to be conquered by car manufacturers. I guess Tamiya RC toys were in more countries faster than the car brands, which bodies were used. Before car market globalisation in other words.
One thing about the tamiya bodies/cars: they look true to scale. No distortion like other makers, when you finish it, it looks like the real vehicle. The Ford GT and Merc GT-3 look amazing.
That's a good point. Helps that they're licensed.
I agree with your description of the TT02. It's a very good car. I the U.S. there are a lot of on road tracks that have a TT02 Class. The rules vary slightly from track to track. On Tower Hobbies site the cheapest version, as you said, is the Subaru BRZ. But, there are many under $130. It probably won't make any difference in Australia, but Tower allows you to use their discount codes on the TT02's. The TT02 kits come with a motor and esc which is a bonus. I can't keep track of all the different TT02 chassis models. I am glad you brought attention to this car.
Stock class racing is cool. I bet this would be great fun! Thanks Michael
100% the TL-01 and TT-01/02 are great for people who like to build and not necessarily go racing. I built a number of TL-01's as shelf queens just because they are fun to build. The tamiya bodies and decals are number 1 IMO, I've never had an issue with a poor molding job.
The instructions are bang on, and if you aren't the type to fiddle with super tiny details and gluing, they are a way to "run" your model after you build it. If you don't? They make great saturday afternoon builds. If you like painting, you can go wild with painting custom paint jobs and with water slide decals you can print yourself, you can add sponsors and decals that you make yourself.
100% the bearing kits are ridiculously cheap now. Back in the day a bearing kit would cost $100, now I think they are like $20? (CDN).
Thanks for that, you've got a lot of experience with these that I don't have. Good to hear your thoughts on it.
@@RCTNT Not so much with the TT line but the lower end kits from Tamiya, yes.
They're exactly as you say: good beginner kits for someone who doesn't want to spend a ton of dough.
The thing is, these days you can get a radio, receiver, esc, and servo for $70.00, back in the day that's what an esc would cost you. I think a dumbo r/c would be perfect for these kits.
These would be a great kit if you had a bunch of kids (aka 40 yr old dads) who wanted to race for fun, have a kind of IROC challenge where you all get the same chassis, but you have a choice of radios servos and esc. Then as you progress you could then allow upgrades like tires, shocks, diffs and stuff and still be at a reasonable price.
Absolutely. Plenty of clubs do :)
@@RCTNT Not a lot of clubs around where I live. I've actually thought about starting up a PLRC (parking lot racing club) but the issue now is stores are open on sundays so there's not a day when the lot isn't being used. Back when I was a teen/20 something stores weren't so the lots sat empty.
That was the case for my local places in the 90s, largely too. We've gained convenience at the cost of peace; not the best deal. That kind of club would be cool tho.
I have had my tt02 (rally) for 2 years now. the half-shafts tends to pop out on grippy surfaces. tires have an amazing wear life and traction all troughout it. I had a 4300kv on 3s in mine and went back to a faster than stock brushed motor. bearings are probably the best upgrade i have made. I drive it a lot during summer and it does drive amazing. ( I do have thicker grease in the diffs) Another part i would recommend is the universal spur gear mount, it allows to use standarts gears from other kits. I would reccommend the car for anyone, experienced or beginner, and will definitly buy a second one this summer!
What a great overview! Thanks for that, Charles!
Great video, as always Craig. Thanks for sharing. John
Thanks John 👍
TT-02 Kit is on its way. I got bearings, Shocks, and Servo on its way with it. Excited to build it.
Sweet! Enjoy
They are a lot of fun to run around! I don't do much on-road stuff but I do have a few of these and I love driving them! I would love to drive on around a track like that all by myself!! I am a little jealous of that! For the price they are great driving and wonderfully detailed bodies too!
They're quite good, yes. I'm looking forward to having the tt01 truck finished too. They're fun.
@@RCTNT I have seen those racing and the are a lot more of a handful to drive! I would love to have the Buggyra Fat Fox truck, it looks so good, but the stickers on there are ridiculous!!
Detail is the word with these things eh!
Up until recently I didn't give these Tamiya kits much of a look. I wish they didn't have phillips head screws but everything else about them seems fun. Their bodies are top notch and they are fun little cars to drive. I'm sure you've had them on your channel before, but if AGFRC servos are affordable on Amazon or somewhere for you, they make a great servo. I have a couple in my crawlers and recently tried one of their low profile brushless options (B44BLS V2) in my new drift kit. Programmable center and reversable direction is such a cool option on the servo itself 😁
Oh yeah? Thanks, I've never had one before. I look into it. Thanks Andy
Hey Andy, you can always get a set of hex screws for these chassis. They are easy enough to find. A more cost-effective way is to find a screw count (any of the screw sets should have it) and buy them separately, on your own, as they usually come in even numbers, the unused ones will also become spares for other similar kits.
@@YoShImUrA53 Oh nice! I wasn't sure if they were machine thread or the wood screw type thread. I have a collection of M3 from building crawler stuff so I might already have what's needed 😁
@@Andy_Yates the Tamiya hardware is made to be used with a JIS type of screwdriver. They are substantially easier to put together if you have the correct tips (Tamiya also sell a tool set - albeit expensive -) which apparently is really nice
@@YoShImUrA53 Awesome, thank you again! Thankfully having worked on cars in the past, I have a good set of Philips screwdrivers and keep a #1 in the room here. Having said that, I'd invest in that Tamiya set knowing the exist 🤙
Helped a lot. Thanks
Glad to hear it, thanks for letting me know 🙂
I've been itching to build a tamiya, but I've been putting it off, I've never painted a body before either 😬
Oh cool! Well, these are big on the detail side of things - needs patience to pull it off well, which I've failed at somewhat. But the nice thing about Tamiya's PS rattle cans is that they make you look good, even when you botch the job like I did here (oversprayed the copper first layer by like 200%) - still comes out at least presentable, if not how you wanted. Definitely worth having a go!
You need to buy sealed diffs either from Tamiya or Yeah Racing. The stock diffs are not sealed and will leak oil.
Good to know, thank you!
I might get one. I have 2 wpl c24, one built. Scx24 kind of built/stock. WLtoys 1:32 little drift/rally car. I am thinking my first 1:10 should be this Straight up old school Basic Chassis system. I have trails smooth and plenty of parking lots. My crawling place i could make a little track for it. Or a basher. Rather just put a kit together hahahaha.
They have their charm, for sure
Cool supra‼️😎👍👍🦾🦾
Love the colour. What colours did you use to get that effect?
Thanks :) Paints used are at 0:41 in the video: PS-1 (white), PS-35 (blue violet), PS-14 (copper) and PS-31 (smoke). Method was to spray a little of the sparkly stuff on first (that's PS-14 (copper), but I over-egged it on the corners. Still came out okay thankfully!). Then, PS-35 (blue violet) went on in a bunch of layers, then finished with PS-1 (white). Peeled the window masks off, did the PS-31 (smoke), then peeled the windshield mask off and did another light smoke all round.
Looks fantastic and appreciate you letting me know how you got there. Cheers 👍🏽
Awesome chassis!
Not bad value and quite pretty :)
I like how you painted. How did you do double colored accordding to the light ? I watched the video but you speed up that part too :)) thanks
Heh sorry about that. Yes, you spray a little of the sparkly stuff on first, then lightly do the next colour, then paint as normal with the main colour.
@@RCTNT thank you for info. 👏🫂
Really awesome car! Love that Supra body . I’ve been thinking of getting this kit to build myself . It’s a good buy! Think if I do this I’m gonna do A Datsun 240z or a blue bird body . Thanks for your build tips my friend . Will utilize when I build one! Cheers🍻😎
Awesome, glad you found it helpful. Enjoy the build, these cars are really all about the body. Cheers
Craig where is this track?
This is Templestowe Flat Track Racers - learn more in my recent Fazer video
ua-cam.com/video/WNzu2ISnWOw/v-deo.html
@@RCTNT Do they still have the off road track? I used to race on it ~30 years ago lol
Ah right! Nope, converted that exact track to sealed over a decade ago, I understand
great car
i love my tt 01 buggyra
Thanks! I'm looking forward to having my tt01e finished too. They're fun little things eh
Yess the euro trucks are so much fun!
what will you recommend servo and esc to this chassis? because i have tt02 and i got powerhd 20kg and tble-04s
Nothing wrong with what you're using. I'm using similar stuff, though I think I swapped my ESC out for a brushed Traxxas combo I had spare. You can use very cheap to very expensive stuff in these cars and you'll feel the difference with the better stuff. But cheap is fine too :)
Just brought one of these in Celica gtfour. I'm over cutting out stickers 😂.
So many stickers, right?!
I ordered this kit a few days ago with a few steering upgrades, oil shocks and of course ball bearings! Gonna run it with a decent 10kg servo (SPT5410lv) and a quicrun sensored 10,5t since I'm curious about sensored vs sensorless which I already have. The kit itself was actually only $85 which was too good to pass up. It's going to be my first decent on-road car, and also first time painting and decaling a body which will be interesting. Did you set this up with regular or high clearance build? I'm worried in regular it might snag on uneven parts on basketball courts or astroturf football fields where I'll start running it on.
Gee, that's gonna have some boogie! I don't know this but I suspect you'll end up needing metal diff gears. The fibre plastic gears are good, but I dunno if they'll take a 10.5T brushless system for long. One way to find out I guess!
I set up standard clearance, with the track being this car's destination. You could always start with high clearance and see if it's clearing everything. Dropping it lower is only a few screws to change, and/or spring spacers.
Enjoy! Great value aren't they :)
@@RCTNT Yeah only time will tell about the plastic diffs, I read about people running 4000+kv on-road with stock diffs without issues so I thought I'd give it a go. Also what would you suggest instead of hot glue at the front to prevent debris getting stuck in there? Maybe glue a thin sheet of plastic over the front if there is room under the steering arms?
4000kv eh? That's a hopeful sign!
Regrading debris, I don't think I'd worry about it, period. After your runs just invert and shake, or blow with compressed air if you have handy access to a compressor. If it really bothers you, a neatly cut fibre tape/body tape layer over the holes should last pretty well, I'd think.
@@RCTNT Did you put diff oil inside the diffs instead of grease without issues of the oil leaking out? What thickness of oils would you recommend for my setup?
I think i just went with grease, to start with. The car doesn't have enough power to need more. However with big power you might find heavy oil in the front diff at least could be helpful, like 100k or more. I'm guessing. Test and see.
I'm watching this just for you Craig. I despise Tamiya for lack of innovation and turning into body licencing brand, and actually being responsible for the whole licensing issue. I don't comprehend how they managed to screw this up so badly for everyone?
Using a true body on a toy is a driving advert for the car manufacturer and drives sales up or keeps model/brand sentiment. Being able to get a toy version of your real car, drives RC car sales up. YET Tamiya managed to get us to situation where the money flows only one way, for bidirectional advantage situation.
Why is there a need for money exchange whichever way in this situation? Tamiya is the reason IMO. They should have never agree to pay, and keep looking for manufacturers that will just say "OK" for joint benefit.
Well, I appreciate your support! Thank you for laying out your argument about this, it's not something I'd considered before. I'll look into the history myself as I'd like to know more. Thank you for all the detail and again, for your kind support.
Well maybe I shouldn't state it as facts, but they are most likely oldest RC company, that became so big, that they had aces in their sleeves. They could play their cards much better, due to how many sales they had worldwide, which was another value for markets to be conquered by car manufacturers. I guess Tamiya RC toys were in more countries faster than the car brands, which bodies were used. Before car market globalisation in other words.
👍👍👍
Traxxas was better than this
I don't think they make a cheap road car kit... Do they?
the 4tec? thats twice as much and not a kit