THE best way to remove a seized rotor is to strike hard with a 4lb+ hammer at a 45 deg angle on the crown (the corner edge edge near the studs), it warps the rotor for a millisecond and pops it right off, I've never had this not work, never had it damage anything. Technique is everything, the strikes must be sideways enough to cause the instantaneous warping that allows it to pop off, (too inward and it won't work, too sideways and it won't work). The point of the video is to help people learn best techniques no? It's best to learn from people who have done hundreds of brake jobs in their lifetimes. Being one of those people, I can tell you a hammer is quicker and more effective, you damage nothing (to include the old rotor) If a rotor is barely held on the hub flange (like it was in the video), a little tap is all it takes, if a rotor is really seized on there, then yes, a big accurate blow with a sledge may be required. But the method in the video isn't going to be any easier on a truly stuck rotor...you're going to need an impact or a long bar to turn those bolts, I'm skeptical it would even work based on my experience, (there are vids of people snapping bolts, etc.) This method requires you to find bolts that will work, probably use PB Blaster on the threads, maybe strip a bolt, etc., omg, grab a hammer and you're done in 2 seconds. I think the issue is the hammer requires technique, hit it correctly and it takes two good smacks max, hit it slightly wrong and it is way, way, less effective. This video is how you hit the rotor properly, the person in this vid seems like an amateur so his technique isn't great, but it's in the neighborhood of proper (his angle isn't 45 degree strikes, his are too inward instead of more sideways, and you can hit MUCH harder if needed). One good accurate smack on a rotor like this and you're done, literally one smack. ua-cam.com/video/X-cFqCWJdOU/v-deo.html
You could use JB weld steel stick, a bolt, and stick a piece into the inside of the rotor so that it isn’t touching the hub, only the inside of the “threaded” area of the slot, then thread the JB weld insert before it dries, and leave it overnight to cure then try it, may hold
I did it by hand on a rotor that was on there for three years rusted. Worked with a normal socket, and some pressure. I wouldn’t use power tools unless you needed to
Sweet mama!...I just wasted a FULL day trying to get it unstuck.
Thanks a million!
Next time itll be easy ;)
Best video on UA-cam straight to the point not a single wasted second
Thanks! 🤙🏽
Yup with you on that this saved my ass
Called "jacking screws". Good to point that out though. You might find holes elsewhere that are designed with jacking screws holes.
New sub for real! Don’t be afraid to re do a few older videos with similar content! Greatly appreciate it!
I knew this trick but what was funny my rear rotors had these holes but the front rotors did not. So good ol whammy from the hammy it was
Nice!
Damn this helped me a lot in a world where Chevy express rear rotors have this
Great!
What size bolt??????
Thanks from Higgins lake Michigan
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much. You might have just saved my car. As long as it works. I'll let you know if it doesn't. Lol.
Yeah let us know!
HOLY SHAT STINK BATMAN! brilliant
THE best way to remove a seized rotor is to strike hard with a 4lb+ hammer at a 45 deg angle on the crown (the corner edge edge near the studs), it warps the rotor for a millisecond and pops it right off, I've never had this not work, never had it damage anything. Technique is everything, the strikes must be sideways enough to cause the instantaneous warping that allows it to pop off, (too inward and it won't work, too sideways and it won't work). The point of the video is to help people learn best techniques no? It's best to learn from people who have done hundreds of brake jobs in their lifetimes. Being one of those people, I can tell you a hammer is quicker and more effective, you damage nothing (to include the old rotor) If a rotor is barely held on the hub flange (like it was in the video), a little tap is all it takes, if a rotor is really seized on there, then yes, a big accurate blow with a sledge may be required. But the method in the video isn't going to be any easier on a truly stuck rotor...you're going to need an impact or a long bar to turn those bolts, I'm skeptical it would even work based on my experience, (there are vids of people snapping bolts, etc.) This method requires you to find bolts that will work, probably use PB Blaster on the threads, maybe strip a bolt, etc., omg, grab a hammer and you're done in 2 seconds. I think the issue is the hammer requires technique, hit it correctly and it takes two good smacks max, hit it slightly wrong and it is way, way, less effective. This video is how you hit the rotor properly, the person in this vid seems like an amateur so his technique isn't great, but it's in the neighborhood of proper (his angle isn't 45 degree strikes, his are too inward instead of more sideways, and you can hit MUCH harder if needed). One good accurate smack on a rotor like this and you're done, literally one smack. ua-cam.com/video/X-cFqCWJdOU/v-deo.html
Good idea thanks!
What size bolts are they???
my rotor doesnt have these holes… my luck
All well and good if the rotors have them
Is someone jealous?
All vehicles don't have this.
Several do
None of mine fo
M8 x 1.25 30 mm bolt size
Yes we know but what if the threads are gone
You could use JB weld steel stick, a bolt, and stick a piece into the inside of the rotor so that it isn’t touching the hub, only the inside of the “threaded” area of the slot, then thread the JB weld insert before it dries, and leave it overnight to cure then try it, may hold
What size bolt pls?????
8mmx1.25? Not sure if every rotor is going to be the same…
And what happens when that bolt pulls the threads right out or the rotor or drum ?
Why even worry about that unless yoour planning on re using it
If that happens you’ve got other problems…
Yes I know this I been a mechanic for 23 years in New York where we have road salt and rust.
I did it by hand on a rotor that was on there for three years rusted. Worked with a normal socket, and some pressure. I wouldn’t use power tools unless you needed to
My two Jeep's don't have holes. Darn.
Well I’LL be damn
Lol alot don't have holes.
That's a great trick if your vehicle has those... Dodge rams don't smh
Only dummies strike rotors with a 3lb hammer. Don't do it. 😮😢
True. 5lbs is better
So a hammer is the first tool you go to. How about no! Use the proper tools and procedures to begin with!
Sweet!