Licensed locksmith here, a technique that myself and a few of the other guys at my shop do is called "knife-edging". Using the flatter side of the Pippin file, I bevel the top edges of the key blade. This makes marks easier to see due to the finer edge, but it is easy to go too far, especially if the lock uses a 0 pin in any of the positions. I've knife-edged blanks for wafer and pin tumbler locks with great success.
Just an aside: The marks from the pins get more and more distinct as you get closer to the correct depth of cut on the key. So when you're far off, the marks will be very light and indistinct.
I know this is old, but, hopefully you read this. So, if the mark is more noticeable, you should stop filing? Or you file until the mark disappear and no longer shows?
Impressioning correctly requires an up and down movement of the key with torque applied in one direction at the same time. this makes the binding pin bind that much harder and makes the marks more pronounced. Bill's method works as you can see but if you try this make sure you give two to three up and down movements with the key when torque is held constant in either direction. Make sure that direction is one in which the lock will open to insure the fastest open.
Thank you for the video. Two comments, first the larger the impression mark on the key the closer you are to the correct depth and the gentler you should be with the filing. Second using a proper impressioning tool allows you to use less force to get a mark and so you are less likely to break the key.
One thing I do when I impression which I didn't see you do is jiggle the key as it's bound each time. That gives you extremely good marks. Also some blanks are made with a mix of different metals to make them harder. Especially in plated keys since the plating would make a normal thickness key thicker. They make those thinner before plating and use a harder mix of metal. I use solid brass keys. They seem to work the best. You use the file I use. Although a very popular file is a pippin file. It has kind of a tear drop cross section. It allows you to make more of an angle the deeper you go allowing the key to work smoother. Other than that, dynamite video. Very informative and explains it very well.
This is so helpful, Bill. I'm working my way thru the Foley Belsaw professional locksmithing course and I really had a ton of trouble with the impressioning module.
That was awesome. Years ago I had to have a locksmith make a set of keys for my car and he used this method and I was blown away. It took him maybe 15 minutes to make both the ignition/door and trunk keys (I said it was years ago lol) for my car.
Yeah, when someone knows what they're doing they can do it in only a few minutes. It takes me FOREVER and sometimes several tries before I get it right. Practice and experience.
Bosnianbill yeah. I’m sure that would be my experience too lol. I went through a lock picking stage a few years ago and finally had to give up...I was pathetic at it
I would like to say that you make a very good video! With that being said, I have a couple of pointers if you do mind. First. That is not a m1 master blank, it is a m13 blank. Second. Use a 4 pippen file. You have much more versatility and control of your spacing and angling of your cuts. Third always secure your lock in a vise or whatever you have on hand. Your work piece has to be secure, or you will be cheating yourself out of the marks you could get. Always use vise grips or the impressioning tool. Why use your fingers when they make a tool for that. These are In my humble opinion critical for achieving success. I have been a practicing outside locksmith for 20 years and I have for a fact impressioned over 100,000 keys to houses all key ways, cars, trucks, boats and tampon machines. Lol. I have impressioned pins and wafers also side bar locks as well as best interchangeable core. There will be comments made that I'm full of shit. All I have to say is come to Dallas look me up and put your money where your mouth is. Great video!!
C W Brumdog That’s is correct sir. I made keys to auction cars cars 5 days a week for 7 years. 50 to 70 cars every day. Then work d for the third largest locksmith here in Texas for Ten years. Impressioning keys for every thing else. Including a m key way best I/c I’m not trying to say I’m the best impressioning master of all time. I have paid my due and then some. I know what works and how to get the best results in real world conditions. Just try the suggestion I have mentioned. They will work and you will get better and faster results
A good tip to make you more successful is to lay the key flat and use a file to thin the blade of the key at an angle, almost like a knife. This trick helps you get the proper spacing. My next tip is to use this method. When the key is held, insert in lock lift up on the key, turn to bind and rock the key down 3 times. Next relax the key, then press down on the key turn to bind and rock the key up 3 times. Take the key out of the lock and wipe the key off the see the marks more clearly. This method of binding and rocking actually causes a slight hammering of the bound pin(s) in to blade of the key. If you have any questions let me know. I learned this method way back in 1995, from a master locksmith that has written many books on locksmithing . Keep learning and stay legal. Now you need to do a video on reading waffer tumbler locks.
Some people use a sharpie on the blade to help see the pin marks. that is how I was taught. Another trick I have found was using white out. Great video Bill. Thank you again for all of your informative videos.
I have heard of using "lamp black" the soot from a candle to coat the key edge to mark it and see where it is scraped away. Also heard of using bluing for metal although it only works on certain types of metal.
I use silicone, works perfect every time. Pick the lock, spray lube it and blow it out with compressed air to put a light coat of oil in it, If it is a spring core put a drop of super glue on the edge of the face so it is temporarily tacked open. Position the lock so the pins are all upside down so they all sit down against the cylinder wall. Inject a small amount of 100% silicone into the keyway. Dry overnight and gently wiggle out your rubber key that shows exact spacing and depth for filing a new key.. Takes longer due to letting the silicone dry but is less work with very accurate results, I rarely have to go back for a touch up with the file.
My brother is a real weasel he showed me completely the wrong way to do that just who I would fail at it Thank you very much I appreciate you taking your time to make the video✌
Thank you Bill. I had watched a couple other videos on this and now I have no idea what they were going on and on about. To watch you do it, it is really very simple. I guess when someone is full of crap they try to hide it with lengthy over explanations, but really it's just more crap.
got my second car I ever owned out of a junkyard using this method it was so hard took me around two hours maybe more but made my own key did the head gasket and drove it home anyhoot thank you for sharing your knowledge with us bosnianbill !! been watching video after video since I found ya lol
Nice job, lucky bitting. Hate to be "picky" no pun intended. You said pin 3 but then filed pin 2(people maybe looking for marks on pin 3). I've impressioned tons of locks in my life, cars, house, padlocks,filing cabinets and there are other technics out there but I would say the one advice that stands out the most is natural light (sun). It is so incredibly important and helpful and the magnifying glasses can be rather useful if you haven't impressioned alot or have bad eyes. Once you get practice and know what you're looking for it can be a great tool/skill to have especially if the lock doesn't disassemble, like the one Bill just did.
I'm sure that everyone knows this already but I was watching "the Americans" the other day and the lady blackened the key with a lighter so that she could see the marks from the key pins.
thanks for the great tutorial. what do you think of using a dremel for the initial polish? killing a butterfly with a bazooka? also, what are your thoughts on using some graphite powder, even a straight pencil tip scratched along the cuts, to determine which pins are "scratching" the most? cheers.
Sharpie's are a common technique for people learning to sharpen knives to see whether they're hitting the right angles. I imagine it could be helpful when startling out with impressioning.
great absolutely great content. how much forensic evidence does this leave inside the lock body and on the pins? do you think this would be harder to notice than picks scraping the inside?
Another great video Bill. Don't take this the wrong way but two things stood out to me as errors in the description. First the coating on the key is not chrome but nickel plated. The second is the groove that got the majority of your filing is #2 not 3. I suppose you could call it 3 as some codes are written with #1 at the tip but the vast majority start at the bow. That's how I record them in my files for code cutting. Thanks again. PS. I wish you cut that final mark. I was a beauty.
Couldn't you if you had to use a key template set to file the shallowest setting on all at first then go derpet one at a time based on the scratches till it worked?
Once a lock has been picked, would it be possible to use some sort of pantograph-like tool to decode the heights of the pins? Once the lock is picked, there would be no need for a subtle sense of touch, since every pin's travel would max out at its correct height. If one could have the pick ride a consistent spot within the lock and had a marking device on the edge of a pick some distance from the lock, measuring how far that point could move down while feeling each pin should indicate how far up the pin could travel. The distance ratios would vary depending upon how far the pick was inserted, but it should be possible to make a translation table. While the impressioning approach you describe wouldn't require picking the lock beforehand, it seems like it would generally require spending more time with trial and error than would picking a typical lock. Tracing the bitting after picking should expedite things a lot.
Travis Deeth prussian blue totally works, too, just not as handy for most people. it's much easier to see, though, and if you're in to machining you'll have plenty lying around.
Is there any advantage to sooting the key with a candle to see the marks? Also some literature says to file a bevel on the key, but the way Bill shows how to do it seems to me a lot faster.
+Mark England Thanks, I didn't consider that. I was happy to see Bill use a Swiss taper file and get acceptable cuts :-) At some point l'd like to get a Pippin file and give it a try.
I spent a lot of money on files for impressioning keys but was always drawn to the Pippin. I finally relented and bought a Pippin #4 and kicked myself for trying to go the cheap route. If you're going to do impressions more than once... buy the Pippin!
Great information and loved to see this actually work. Now I'm going to sleep much better. Knowing anyone can get into the house. Oh...and If I do this on a 1970 mach 1 mustang where I bought a keyed column without a key. What key would I need, and which side of the lock are the pins on? Thank you!
Super low tech. I like it and i have a programmable lock I have been wanting to rekey but I have lost the original. I wonder if this method will still work?
1st your awesome bill ,Iv learnt loads from u, BUT when I was working on call I found using a knife edge shape to the key edge and filing at the same knife angel makes it so much easier to see without googles , have u tried this ?
muy buen trabajo bill. usted sabe alguna pagina de internet donde pueda conseguir ese modelo de llave? soy de España y no puedo conseguirla. GRACIAS Y SALUDOS
amazon has a variety of loupes and magnifyers to choose from thats where i ordered mine from. delivery may take awile if it comes from china or somewere like that
How can I find what key do I need? I got an old Vespa without the key. I want to try this method, but, I have no idea how to tell what key to start with.
Hey Bill, do you know how probable it is to impression a triple bitted wafer lock like a Duo? Or do you know of any books/videos that could help? Thanks again, and as always great video!
Hi Bill, Just wondering if you used a black magic marker on the key edge to help visualize the contact area as you wiggled the key, would this facilitate where to file easily?
You could use it and I believe it would work pretty well, but waiting for it to dry between attempts would really lengthen the time you need to impression the lock.
he talked about it in the comments of that video. Its possible but not a very viable attack because if you screw it up, the lock is pretty much a paper weight.
Many "Many" years ago I had a fascination with padlocks I tried a "locksmithing course" BY MAIL. (Maybe I should have continued it) Anyway in Impressioning a key they recommended "Smoking" the key using a Candle holding the key in the flame to darken it. Worked fairly well but I did not continue with the course, Still have the "copy" of that manual. By "Copy" I mean it was photo copied page by page and bound together with pins!
I work in a machine shop, why not use red or blue or what else other color daikum paint it comes with a bottle with a brush, we use it to detect if something is rubbing somewhere on the part that you painted
The file only cuts when you push it forward anyway. You should never put pressure on the back stroke of a file, it only dulls it quicker and it's wasted energy (in case you're using a large file to take off a lot of material).
Bill why would this be necessary? Would it not be quicker to pick the lock and re pin with another key? Or is is this used for locks that do not dissasemble?
I've been watching these videos for a while now and decided to buy some lock picks, whats the cheapest way to get started? I just want to try first so not putting any big money in right now, maybe later if i have fun with locks.
Can i use the lishi key cutter for make keys by impressioning technique?? Or is better with a pippin file? , I need help do lockpad keys please, thanks
+TheSherwin2261 I suppose you could. But I've been following bill for a while and each time that he has referenced a pin, he has always started numerically from the shoulder. I guess it doesn't matter, it just threw me for a loop.
He said it wrong, he's human and is aloud to make a mistake. I have cut factory keys for master locks a lot of times. It's kinda a big deal because he is trying to teach a technic and everybody(hopefully)is looking at pin 3 for a mark. People may not have noticed he actually filed pin 2.
I find impressioning more rewarding on a job than picking. it does take some time but if a lock can't come off a door bc it'll ruin the finish bc a painter painted over it. then impressioning is the way.
An alternative way to what you are asking for, is to get a set of ultra precise digital calipers and know the depth for each pin depth for the brand of lock and just file to one of those deeper depths each time there is a mark. Another alternative is to get a "key-decoder" which is a metal card with graduated cuts and you put it in the "no cut" side and slide it to a number and that tells you what number pin it is, which also tells you what height to file it down to, so if its in-between numbers, you know it needs to be filed down a little more. Another way is to get it as close as you can, and get a locksmith to decode it and "cut a key to code" using a hundreds of dollars or even thousands of dollars machine, which may cost you $10. A last alternative is to buy a "key clipper" to cut chunks of keys off. I have no experience with doing any of this, so consider that.
Um Bill, question I've seen a few videos about impressioning and they quite a lot of them move the handle up and down moslty not that much left to right. Any comments on that?
I put the blank in and the master lock opened
Most older locks can be opened with a blank. It pushes the pins to the shear line.
The blank overlifts the pins
Lol!
You're better than all of us.
Licensed locksmith here, a technique that myself and a few of the other guys at my shop do is called "knife-edging". Using the flatter side of the Pippin file, I bevel the top edges of the key blade. This makes marks easier to see due to the finer edge, but it is easy to go too far, especially if the lock uses a 0 pin in any of the positions. I've knife-edged blanks for wafer and pin tumbler locks with great success.
Just an aside: The marks from the pins get more and more distinct as you get closer to the correct depth of cut on the key. So when you're far off, the marks will be very light and indistinct.
S
@@murthyrajamahendravarapu7077 S back to you.
I know this is old, but, hopefully you read this.
So, if the mark is more noticeable, you should stop filing? Or you file until the mark disappear and no longer shows?
@@GnarledSage yes but file very lightly
I think Bill has two pairs of hands. The one pair is used to work the lock and the other is used to play the banjo while in fast forward.
The master of locks...and his door blows open
Great stuff as always Bill :)
right haha I chuckled
The master of locks.... But not door catches! lol
EOD Technicians have famously large fingers. :)
The tailor is always the man wearing the bad suit. Look to his customers for the quality.
Impressioning correctly requires an up and down movement of the key with torque applied in one direction at the same time. this makes the binding pin bind that much harder and makes the marks more pronounced. Bill's method works as you can see but if you try this make sure you give two to three up and down movements with the key when torque is held constant in either direction. Make sure that direction is one in which the lock will open to insure the fastest open.
Enjoy your retirement, Bill. Thanks to you, I impressioned my first key last week.
Like how you explain and demonstrated that process, Bill. Now the liquor cabinet is within my grasp. Don't let the Intro Technies see this video.
He is the only person who I have ever seen impression this way!I love how he marks the first cuts. That's a brilliant idea. Great video as always.
Thank you for the video.
Two comments, first the larger the impression mark on the key the closer you are to the correct depth and the gentler you should be with the filing. Second using a proper impressioning tool allows you to use less force to get a mark and so you are less likely to break the key.
One thing I do when I impression which I didn't see you do is jiggle the key as it's bound each time. That gives you extremely good marks. Also some blanks are made with a mix of different metals to make them harder. Especially in plated keys since the plating would make a normal thickness key thicker. They make those thinner before plating and use a harder mix of metal. I use solid brass keys. They seem to work the best. You use the file I use. Although a very popular file is a pippin file. It has kind of a tear drop cross section. It allows you to make more of an angle the deeper you go allowing the key to work smoother. Other than that, dynamite video. Very informative and explains it very well.
This is so helpful, Bill. I'm working my way thru the Foley Belsaw professional locksmithing course and I really had a ton of trouble with the impressioning module.
I thought about doing that course, is it any good?
@@michaelchurch4837 it's a solid course. Gives you everything you need to get the ball rolling. I'm glad I did it.
That was awesome. Years ago I had to have a locksmith make a set of keys for my car and he used this method and I was blown away. It took him maybe 15 minutes to make both the ignition/door and trunk keys (I said it was years ago lol) for my car.
Yeah, when someone knows what they're doing they can do it in only a few minutes. It takes me FOREVER and sometimes several tries before I get it right. Practice and experience.
Bosnianbill yeah. I’m sure that would be my experience too lol. I went through a lock picking stage a few years ago and finally had to give up...I was pathetic at it
I would like to say that you make a very good video! With that being said, I have a couple of pointers if you do mind. First. That is not a m1 master blank, it is a m13 blank. Second. Use a 4 pippen file. You have much more versatility and control of your spacing and angling of your cuts. Third always secure your lock in a vise or whatever you have on hand. Your work piece has to be secure, or you will be cheating yourself out of the marks you could get. Always use vise grips or the impressioning tool. Why use your fingers when they make a tool for that. These are In my humble opinion critical for achieving success. I have been a practicing outside locksmith for 20 years and I have for a fact impressioned over 100,000 keys to houses all key ways, cars, trucks, boats and tampon machines. Lol. I have impressioned pins and wafers also side bar locks as well as best interchangeable core. There will be comments made that I'm full of shit. All I have to say is come to Dallas look me up and put your money where your mouth is. Great video!!
Jon Bottoms 100,000 impressioned locks over 20 years? That’s 14 locks every day, even weekends, for 20 years?
C W Brumdog
That’s is correct sir. I made keys to auction cars cars 5 days a week for 7 years. 50 to 70 cars every day. Then work d for the third largest locksmith here in Texas for Ten years. Impressioning keys for every thing else. Including a m key way best I/c I’m not trying to say I’m the best impressioning master of all time. I have paid my due and then some. I know what works and how to get the best results in real world conditions. Just try the suggestion I have mentioned. They will work and you will get better and faster results
A good tip to make you more successful is to lay the key flat and use a file to thin the blade of the key at an angle, almost like a knife. This trick helps you get the proper spacing. My next tip is to use this method. When the key is held, insert in lock lift up on the key, turn to bind and rock the key down 3 times. Next relax the key, then press down on the key turn to bind and rock the key up 3 times. Take the key out of the lock and wipe the key off the see the marks more clearly. This method of binding and rocking actually causes a slight hammering of the bound pin(s) in to blade of the key. If you have any questions let me know. I learned this method way back in 1995, from a master locksmith that has written many books on locksmithing . Keep learning and stay legal.
Now you need to do a video on reading waffer tumbler locks.
Some people use a sharpie on the blade to help see the pin marks. that is how I was taught. Another trick I have found was using white out. Great video Bill. Thank you again for all of your informative videos.
I was thinking about something like that, painting the surface. Thank you
I have heard of using "lamp black" the soot from a candle to coat the key edge to mark it and see where it is scraped away. Also heard of using bluing for metal although it only works on certain types of metal.
I use silicone, works perfect every time. Pick the lock, spray lube it and blow it out with compressed air to put a light coat of oil in it, If it is a spring core put a drop of super glue on the edge of the face so it is temporarily tacked open. Position the lock so the pins are all upside down so they all sit down against the cylinder wall. Inject a small amount of 100% silicone into the keyway. Dry overnight and gently wiggle out your rubber key that shows exact spacing and depth for filing a new key..
Takes longer due to letting the silicone dry but is less work with very accurate results, I rarely have to go back for a touch up with the file.
Every time I watch one of your videos, another one of my questions gets answered!
My brother is a real weasel he showed me completely the wrong way to do that just who I would fail at it
Thank you very much
I appreciate you taking your time to make the video✌
Thank you Bill. I had watched a couple other videos on this and now I have no idea what they were going on and on about. To watch you do it, it is really very simple.
I guess when someone is full of crap they try to hide it with lengthy over explanations, but really it's just more crap.
got my second car I ever owned out of a junkyard using this method it was so hard took me around two hours maybe more but made my own key did the head gasket and drove it home anyhoot thank you for sharing your knowledge with us bosnianbill !! been watching video after video since I found ya lol
Nice job, lucky bitting. Hate to be "picky" no pun intended. You said pin 3 but then filed pin 2(people maybe looking for marks on pin 3). I've impressioned tons of locks in my life, cars, house, padlocks,filing cabinets and there are other technics out there but I would say the one advice that stands out the most is natural light (sun). It is so incredibly important and helpful and the magnifying glasses can be rather useful if you haven't impressioned alot or have bad eyes. Once you get practice and know what you're looking for it can be a great tool/skill to have especially if the lock doesn't disassemble, like the one Bill just did.
I pick locks for fun.
I started by making my own lockpicks from hacksaw blades.
But this may be even cooler than that.
I'm sure that everyone knows this already but I was watching "the Americans" the other day and the lady blackened the key with a lighter so that she could see the marks from the key pins.
I'm so glad I saw this comment, I thought she had heated the key to make it mallible and actually made an imprint. That makes more sense now lol
I was thinking a light layer of black with a magic marker.
@@mindofmadness5593 Sharpie would work quite well. I use the same when sharpening a tool and trying to exactly match an original angle.
thanks for the great tutorial.
what do you think of using a dremel for the initial polish? killing a butterfly with a bazooka?
also, what are your thoughts on using some graphite powder, even a straight pencil tip scratched along the cuts, to determine which pins are "scratching" the most?
cheers.
What about using something on the surface of the key to detect the scrapes easier? Like layout fluid for working with metal or maybe just a sharpie.
I still haven't figured out why I can't stop watching your vids
Thank you for all the knowledge BosnianBill! I wish health and happiness to you and your family! Congratulations on your retirement ❤
Keyblank space and depth keysets can be helpful, mainly for initial impression blank prep.
you can also grind the key to be more narrow so you dont have as much material to file off.
So cool! Untill I watched this video, I didn't understand how impressioning works. thank you Bill ;D
Greetings and salutations
Could you use a sharpie to make scratches more pronounced?
Yer you can but once you get good at it it's an extra unnecessary step,
I've always heard to use a candle to blacken up the key with soot.
Thank you
Sharpie's are a common technique for people learning to sharpen knives to see whether they're hitting the right angles. I imagine it could be helpful when startling out with impressioning.
I was just gonna ask about that, thx.
How do you impression a master key that was made opens many locks, not just the one?
I always wished someone would make a comprehensive key impressioning video! TY!
SUPER! Years later . . I find way to make key so I Can put my heavy chain to work. gotta learn to pick. Thanks!
great absolutely great content. how much forensic evidence does this leave inside the lock body and on the pins? do you think this would be harder to notice than picks scraping the inside?
Another great video Bill. Don't take this the wrong way but two things stood out to me as errors in the description. First the coating on the key is not chrome but nickel plated. The second is the groove that got the majority of your filing is #2 not 3. I suppose you could call it 3 as some codes are written with #1 at the tip but the vast majority start at the bow. That's how I record them in my files for code cutting. Thanks again. PS. I wish you cut that final mark. I was a beauty.
Couldn't you if you had to use a key template set to file the shallowest setting on all at first then go derpet one at a time based on the scratches till it worked?
Once a lock has been picked, would it be possible to use some sort of pantograph-like tool to decode the heights of the pins? Once the lock is picked, there would be no need for a subtle sense of touch, since every pin's travel would max out at its correct height. If one could have the pick ride a consistent spot within the lock and had a marking device on the edge of a pick some distance from the lock, measuring how far that point could move down while feeling each pin should indicate how far up the pin could travel. The distance ratios would vary depending upon how far the pick was inserted, but it should be possible to make a translation table.
While the impressioning approach you describe wouldn't require picking the lock beforehand, it seems like it would generally require spending more time with trial and error than would picking a typical lock. Tracing the bitting after picking should expedite things a lot.
Could you use 'lamp black' like the soot from a burning candle to mark the next cut?
Travis Deeth prussian blue totally works, too, just not as handy for most people. it's much easier to see, though, and if you're in to machining you'll have plenty lying around.
Is there any advantage to sooting the key with a candle to see the marks? Also some literature says to file a bevel on the key, but the way Bill shows how to do it seems to me a lot faster.
I believe that filing a bevel on the edge is a technique reserved for wafer locks.
+Mark England Thanks, I didn't consider that. I was happy to see Bill use a Swiss taper file and get acceptable cuts :-) At some point l'd like to get a Pippin file and give it a try.
I spent a lot of money on files for impressioning keys but was always drawn to the Pippin. I finally relented and bought a Pippin #4 and kicked myself for trying to go the cheap route. If you're going to do impressions more than once... buy the Pippin!
Great information and loved to see this actually work. Now I'm going to sleep much better. Knowing anyone can get into the house. Oh...and If I do this on a 1970 mach 1 mustang where I bought a keyed column without a key. What key would I need, and which side of the lock are the pins on? Thank you!
You can look inside and see where the pins are. H55 I think??? Been a long time
You picked an extremely simple one. Wow, I'm impressed.
Can you impression locks with security pins - like Abus, American Lock and the likes?
Yes
Super low tech. I like it and i have a programmable lock I have been wanting to rekey but I have lost the original. I wonder if this method will still work?
Have you tried a sharpie marker to enhance the marks? The are often used in the machine trades to leave fit marks.
You make it look way to easy in all your videos. Thus was an awesome video. Thanks Bill.
1st your awesome bill ,Iv learnt loads from u, BUT when I was working on call I found using a knife edge shape to the key edge and filing at the same knife angel makes it so much easier to see without googles , have u tried this ?
Nukes u
+prawno5 got what I need. u say she just friend
muy buen trabajo bill. usted sabe alguna pagina de internet donde pueda conseguir ese modelo de llave? soy de España y no puedo conseguirla. GRACIAS Y SALUDOS
amazon has a variety of loupes and magnifyers to choose from thats where i ordered mine from. delivery may take awile if it comes from china or somewere like that
can order blanks for around 25cents each if you order from different locksmiths oo dealers online. example , clk supplies
It's great the way you give a couple of licks with just the tip
What about locks that can have tumblers go 0-1.00" (for example) but need to be .50" to be free at both top and bottom pints of the tumblers?
I wonder if you could use a highlighter, ink, acrylic paint or some white-out to make seeing easier.
How can I find what key do I need? I got an old Vespa without the key. I want to try this method, but, I have no idea how to tell what key to start with.
Try a drywipe marker on the edge. I use it when i sharpen my woodworking tools.
Hey Bill, do you know how probable it is to impression a triple bitted wafer lock like a Duo? Or do you know of any books/videos that could help? Thanks again, and as always great video!
Can you take a magic marker and coat the key to give you a perfect mark?
How do you know you failed? What's the I definitely cut that too deep point?
Dang, what silly crappy bitting. Ur such a boss bill!
Hi Bill, Just wondering if you used a black magic marker on the key edge to help visualize the contact area as you wiggled the key, would this facilitate where to file easily?
You could use it and I believe it would work pretty well, but waiting for it to dry between attempts would really lengthen the time you need to impression the lock.
Wow I had the impression it's much less visible !
Anyway .. what about foiling ? Have you seen that Forever lock foiled ?
he talked about it in the comments of that video. Its possible but not a very viable attack because if you screw it up, the lock is pretty much a paper weight.
I was under the impression that foil attacks only work well with dimple locks.
the forever lock hes referring to is a dimple lock
Great video. What is the purpose of using the file in only one direction?
It shortens the life of your file if you go both ways. Also gives a better finish.
+killerpicking Thank you.
Many "Many" years ago I had a fascination with padlocks I tried a "locksmithing course" BY MAIL. (Maybe I should have continued it)
Anyway in Impressioning a key they recommended "Smoking" the key using a Candle holding the key in the flame to darken it.
Worked fairly well but I did not continue with the course, Still have the "copy" of that manual. By "Copy" I mean it was photo copied page by page
and bound together with pins!
Thanks bill you make it look so easy!
I work in a machine shop, why not use red or blue or what else other color daikum paint it comes with a bottle with a brush, we use it to detect if something is rubbing somewhere on the part that you painted
The file only cuts when you push it forward anyway. You should never put pressure on the back stroke of a file, it only dulls it quicker and it's wasted energy (in case you're using a large file to take off a lot of material).
Can u mark the key with a marker, to see the marks Everytime?
Would machinists dye work? Even a sharpie marker.
would coloring the key like with a sharpie make it easier to see your marks?
good idea, i wonder too
Hey Bill do you think Prussian blue would help
How do you know what blank to start with??
Bill why would this be necessary? Would it not be quicker to pick the lock and re pin with another key? Or is is this used for locks that do not dissasemble?
Padlocks don't dissasemble.
old school locksmithing , before all the electronic anti theft stuff repoing cars was fun and using this to drive them when needed
Could you use Bluing?
I bet the main issue would be finding the right key blank for a particular lock.
I've been watching these videos for a while now and decided to buy some lock picks, whats the cheapest way to get started? I just want to try first so not putting any big money in right now, maybe later if i have fun with locks.
Best impression of a key, " click".
Wow I love UA-cam! clicked on a Bosnian Bill video and I got an ad for kwikset
Can i use the lishi key cutter for make keys by impressioning technique?? Or is better with a pippin file? , I need help do lockpad keys please, thanks
Hey Bill, nice vid! You may want to edit it though because you called the number 2 position "number 3".
the position can be called diferent things from different manufactureres
+TheSherwin2261 I suppose you could. But I've been following bill for a while and each time that he has referenced a pin, he has always started numerically from the shoulder. I guess it doesn't matter, it just threw me for a loop.
+LNC4P I was confused for a second too, I could be wrong anyway bill flubs a far bit haha
He said it wrong, he's human and is aloud to make a mistake. I have cut factory keys for master locks a lot of times.
It's kinda a big deal because he is trying to teach a technic and everybody(hopefully)is looking at pin 3 for a mark. People may not have noticed he actually filed pin 2.
As someone who has only a very small knowledge of locks, I'm glad that this wasn't confusing for only me.
your right,...i snapped a few keys trying it ..they get weak after a few times of thqt
\
Anybody know if there's a way to get to BosnianBill's first film and then watch them in order?
Nice one Bill. It is something I have never tried to do.
Bill you make it look so easy!
I find impressioning more rewarding on a job than picking. it does take some time but if a lock can't come off a door bc it'll ruin the finish bc a painter painted over it. then impressioning is the way.
Where can i buy blank keys for the Tri-circle lock
There's also foil impressioning or simply "foiling" still.
Can you do this to a skeleton key?
is there a tool that could be inserted into the lock to gauge each pin to make a key more precisely?
closest thing to what youre asking would be a lishi
John Falle made such a lock decoding tool. As have others. They are very expensive & not widely available.
An alternative way to what you are asking for, is to get a set of ultra precise digital calipers and know the depth for each pin depth for the brand of lock and just file to one of those deeper depths each time there is a mark. Another alternative is to get a "key-decoder" which is a metal card with graduated cuts and you put it in the "no cut" side and slide it to a number and that tells you what number pin it is, which also tells you what height to file it down to, so if its in-between numbers, you know it needs to be filed down a little more. Another way is to get it as close as you can, and get a locksmith to decode it and "cut a key to code" using a hundreds of dollars or even thousands of dollars machine, which may cost you $10. A last alternative is to buy a "key clipper" to cut chunks of keys off. I have no experience with doing any of this, so consider that.
Hi Bill
I Have A Steel Cabinet And I Want To Know How I Can Determine What Key Will Go With The Lock?
Hey Bill, can we get an instruction video on how you clean up/shape picks?
Um Bill, question I've seen a few videos about impressioning and they quite a lot of them move the handle up and down moslty not that much left to right. Any comments on that?
Why a round file? why not a really fine square or triangle?
Round key bindings are better.
A square or triangle might have the binders get stuck
How would the method work with a car key
cant you use engineers blue??
I did it! Yay! Thanks for the video! God bless! 😇
Great video! How did you know to get the M1 blank for that keyway? Or did you just get blanks and find a lock that matched them?
Almost all Master 4-pinners use the M1 key. It is probably the most common keyway you run into, and you'll quickly learn to recognize it.
Awesome video, I've been wondering about this for a while, coincidently i have a few master locks to try it out on
Anyone know where i can buy the file online? Cant find it anywhere.
Just use a candle to smoke the surface so when the lock pins rub on it it will be easier to see the scratches it makes on the blank.