Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Replacement, Dodge Ram, Jeep and more

[@missionplatinum]

Job 1 today. 1998 Ram 1500 with 305,000 miles. I bought it with 72,000 miles for $5K cash. Nothing fancy, needs paint but it beats hell out of a monthly payment. It's got the big 5.2 (318 ci) and gets 17 mpg. It does everything a Truck is supposed to do...most people with trucks don't use them for truck work. Nice job Glenn.

[@alfredoppel6911]

Finally an old timer whose not wearing the latex gloves. Love it. Thanks

[@Glennfix]

You bet! It is the same as never trust a skinny cook and Never trust a mechanic with clean hands.

[@lindabennett6562]

I ordered the kit and the cost was $110.00 which was much cheaper than buying individual parts. Thank you for the video. I’m looking forward to putting the kit in and driving my 2001 Ram 1500. I got the truck from my nephew who lives in Oklahoma and he bought it from a guy in Arkansas so now it’ll be in Wisconsin. No rust………..yet!!! Ha.

[@Glennfix]

Glad I could help!

[@eplerpr]

Thank you for the video! Much appreciated

[@Glennfix]

Glad it was helpful!

[@briha3142]

I watched this video, as my ‘98 Dakota 4-cyl, 2-wheel drive, had a small leak at the pushrod/firewall, behind the clutch pedal, and I bought the pre-filled Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder/Reservoir Kit for $191 at AutoZone, today, February 14, 2023, thinking I could do it in about an hour, but it turned into a 3-hour job due to all the missing info that you failed to provide us newbies, anent this pre-filled kit!
For Newbies, the Reservoir nuts are 11mm; the Master Clutch Cylinder nuts are 15mm; and the Slave Cylinder nuts are 13mm, on the 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport.
You did not go into any kind of detail on the clip that holds the Pin Pushrod onto the pedal, as your clip was broken (after seeing my clip, I now know that yours was missing the tab that holds the clip in place). There is a tab on the clip that MUST be held open so that the clip can slide off the pedal axle/rod that the Pushrod is placed onto. Not knowing anything about the clip, it took almost 30 minutes to figure out how to get that blasted thing off, without damaging it! Ugh! (Your clip was damaged, as somebody just yanked it off and tore off the holding tab, from the looks of it!?!)
You also failed to inform us newbies that the new rubber grommet and nylon washer goes onto the Pushrod only ONE way, and I found out the hard way, that the nylon washer NEEDS to be oriented onto the Pushrod so it will sit into the Master Cylinder first, with the flat side against the Master Cylinder, then the rubber grommet, and then the Safety Start Switch gets clipped onto the pushrod BEFORE you insert the Pushrod into the Master Cylinder! I had installed it wrong and since I could not pull out the Pushrod, (until later when I used the pedal to pull it out), I cut the Nylon Washer and slipped it off the Pushrod, and then slid it back onto the Pushrod in the proper orientation! Then the Safety Start Switch was able to slide on and get clipped onto the Pushrod, and then the Pushrod gets pushed into the Master Cylinder! I now have great clutch pedal action! Thank you for posting this video, as it inspired me to get my arms and hands messy and scratched up, trying to fish out the old parts and then finagle the new parts into the same pathways!
In my situation, I used the clutch pedal to pull the new Pushrod out of the new Master Cylinder, as I was having great difficulty getting the Safety Start Switch to go onto the Pushrod, except the Pushrod wouldn’t come out completely. But it came out enough for me to get that Safety Start Switch installed, and then I pushed the Pushrod back into the new Master Cylinder. Whew! What a nightmare, for me, as I had never done this before, and now feel confident that I could do it again, in half the time!
If any Newbie reads what I have posted in here, they will have a much easier time with this Kit install! It is a great time-saver to replace the Reservoir, the Master Clutch Cylinder and the Slave Cylinder using this kit that costs less than $200, for the Dodge Dakota trucks!
Tis best to install the Master Cylinder first, then the Slave Cylinder, and then the Reservoir, as the tubing needs to be routed around various other components! Fortunately, no other connections needed to be dealt with, on the old parts, nor the new parts! Thanks again, for your tutorial video!

[@ghostnarrattor]

This was soo easy to replace! My 13yr old son replaced this with the the same kit in this video! Soo easy a "caveman" can do it🤣🤣

[@DookieFreshh]

You never mentioned what happens to the white plastic grommet

[@devin8062]

Would this be similar 2 Dodge Caliber 2007? If anybody has a video Dodge Caliber 2007 clutch replacement would be appreciated

[@tonyrodeiguez3505]

After instal do I add more fluid even tho it already has fluid

[@Glennfix]

You should not have to add fluid. But check it to make sure it is ok.

[@michouren9672]

Thanks dude ..
2004 Dakota 3.7 sxl

[@Glennfix]

Your welcome

[@vrea77]

I also recommen changing the whole thing out in stead just parts

[@SmudgyContent]

How do i get it to lock in... i thought i had it once been driving it normal for 3 months and one day clutch was to the floor... i fed it back in and yeah it wouldnt lock in idk if it even locked in truly.

[@Glennfix]

There is a plastic clip that should hold it in place. I had one that it never clipped in place, I just had to be aware of it and not bump the clutch pedal up. Makes it kind of a pain but not that bad.

[@thomascotter1057]

Should have shown grommet install with pedal rod. So people get it right when installing. Otherwise great job showing this repair. Thanks.

[@user-yz6ux6dn4t]

Hi Glenn we installed the kit as per the video and the line blew from the slave cylinder to the reservoir cup, when we tried pressing the clutch,any ideas what went wrong? Thanks

[@jtmoney416]

Thanks for the help. Similar process for the Dakota’s. You have to loosen the brake master cylinder though.

[@juanvaldez2896]

You did a Nice job

[@ThePerfectSeason1972]

@Glenfix- nice video , question which has to do with the interlock switch, which allows one to start the vehicle up. I replaced the entire kit on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 3.9L 6cylinder. I had the spongy issue problem originally with my system and no way to bleed it because it is sealed with no bleeder valve or zerk fitting. Install went well, however I must press my clutch pedal all the way to the floor in order for the switch to start the vehicle. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Is there a way to adjust the switch or should I replace the switch, can I replace the kit? My hydraulic kit is aftermarket, but never thought to measure the push rod that goes into the master cylinder. Sometimes when the pedal is to the floor, it won’t power on to start. Never had that issue before. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks …!

[@ThePerfectSeason1972]

I am going to have to answer my own question that I asked about the interrupter switch, which, by the way I Purchased at AutoZone part number CR445, and it cost me $116 .00 , $128.00 with tax. The problem was the switch had to have that plastic grommet and the rubber foam washer at the end of the switch at the firewall of the master cylinder, where the push rod is at and it has to be entirely set on the skinniest diameter part of the push rod, to keep it from sliding up and down on the push rod. The switch itself has a grooved white nylon connector that slides on the top of oval switch, which keeps the interrupter switch on the rod itself. It slides back-and-forth. It must be set all the way forward toward the firewall/clutch master cylinder , make sure all the tabs are in, it is really difficult to do because there’s very little room there to work on and it’s better to put the switch on the rod when removed from the truck before you put the master cylinder on the truck. If the switch is installed incorrectly, the switch will not allow your car to start and I bet you that may have been what happened to this gentleman’s vehicle. So in other words I had to remove the entire Kit from my car I removed the pushrod slid the switch onto the end of it, reinstall everything which took some time. It’s not a good idea to remove the push rod from the master cylinder itself because you could break or deform the clip that slides into the master cylinder, which is a chore to get back on. I was able to get it back on correctly and it was probably a good 8 to 12 hours worth of work to get it on because there were no real good UA-cam videos showing the entire installation explaining it. I had to take bits and pieces of information From several videos to write this long post.

[@rodneyhoskins8187]

Do you push the slave cylinder in with that plastic clip still on?

[@Glennfix]

Yes, do not remove the clip. I will pop out and it is almost impossible to push in. If you remove the clip about the only way you can get it in is to loosen the bolts on the transmission and pull the trans back a little bolt on the slave cylinder and tighten up the bolts. If you replace the clutch this is the way you put it back in.

[@nunezmh]

Thanks for the video, I have a 01 Ram 1500 and it stared to squeak really loud on first second and third gear and it’s getting harder to shift. Will this fix the problem?

[@Glennfix]

I don't think so. It is hard to say

[@TheAgreene41]

I am doing this now and I can’t get the clutch res between the brake booster and the brake proportioning valve

[@TheAgreene41]

It’s a 2001 Dakota 4x4 3.9

[@Glennfix]

Sorry I don't understand what you are asking. Give more information.

[@normalancaster7284]

How come you didn't show the end with everything working ?? I watched the complete video to see the end with everything working and was hoping you would recap the entire thing. I need to see the clutch pin installed and it working . Can someone show me that ? Please .

[@zakkul6242]

Nice vid thanks for the info

[@Glennfix]

No problem 👍

[@ellieolmo7773]

What size are the bolts on the slave cylinder??

[@Glennfix]

If I remember right they are number 10

[@elcajoia619]

July of 2021, this kit now cost $325 at 0'reilly's, no inflation right?

[@dominiccantu3314]

Mine was 217

[@elcajoia619]

@@dominiccantu33140'reilly's here in Vegas, we are passing through and our clutch went out, that $325 was a ripoff for sure!

[@spiderbeardancing]

185. + tax at NAPA for 'kit' / prebled assembly complete, end of August 2021
Seems legit

[@michaelkeller1112]

what size is the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder?

[@Glennfix]

I think it is 5/16

[@esics8123]

I bought the kit and installed it on my 99 dakota. But i still can't change gears. The Clutch is still very easy to push in. Any ideas on what else it could be?

[@Glennfix]

Sounds like a bad clutch, how many miles on the clutch you have?

[@esics8123]

@@Glennfix I'm honestly not sure. I just bought the truck 2 weeks ago. But I've come to the same conclusion. Unfortunately replacing the clutch is a bit beyond my tools and skill set so its of to the shop. Thanks for the video and getting back to me though. You've earned a new subscriber.

[@johnathanbarlow]

@Esics 81 where did you find that kit?

[@briha3142]

@@johnathanbarlow AutoZone or O’Reilly Auto Parts has the Clutch Master with Slave Cylinder kit, pre-filled already, with all the connectors, and pin pushrod for about $192, in February 2023! I’m gonna do my ‘98 Dodge Dakota Sport 4-cyl, 5-speed clutch master/slave cylinder kit install, in a day or two, by myself! If that doesn’t fix my clutch, then the next thing to do, would be to buy an OEM Stock (no Stage 1, 2, or 3 kits, as those are for racing) Clutch Repair Kit, which comes with a new friction plate, the multi-fingered clutch disc, the alignment tool, a pilot bushing and a throw-out bearing, in kit form, for about $250 at either of those two auto parts stores mentioned above! And then watch some YT videos on how to do that repair job, by myself!

[@lucasbrothers8235]

Would this work on a 350

[@Glennfix]

It will work on a Dodge 3500

[@destinhall8456]

I have an 01 Dodge Ram 1500, my issue isn’t my slave cylinder but my truck not wanting to start when turning the key. My grandpa showed me an old timers trick of how to make your truck a push button start and I can get it started that way. My theory is the switch right at the clutch pedal is broken, which you mentioned you had to bypass yours as well cause it broke. Would this theory be plausible or am I looking the wrong direction here?

[@Glennfix]

It is most likely the clutch safety switch. A ease way to tell is cut the wires to the switch and put them together. If the truck starts that it, if not just put them back together.

[@JohnnyQuestFishing]

When you bleed it, do you first remove the slave cylinder, then open the bleed valve and step on peddle?..or do you leave it installed and open the bleed valve and step on peddle?

[@Glennfix]

Leave the new slave cylinder installed to bleed it. If you steep on the peddle when it is not installed it will come apart and you will have to buy a new one.

[@rickythornberry1797]

Doing this today and when i pulled the slave cylinder from the trans the push rod stayed in so i pulled it out and the plastic part stayed in. This normal or did i phucker it up?

[@Glennfix]

A lot of times the plastic wears away. If it is just the plastic, it won't hurt to leave it inside. But you don't want it sticking to the fork. Look inside with a flashlight and make sure it's not on the fork. Knock it loose with a screwdriver or something if it is. The plastic will fall to the bottom of the bell housing and if it hits the clutch, the clutch will just grind it up.

[@abdulalhazred4589]

THIS SYSTEM YOU ARE USING HERE CAN FIT INSIDE MY 1991 DODGE RAM PICK UP??? ARE THESE SYSTEMS INTERCHANGEABLE TO A CERTAIN EXTENT OR NOT??? CAN THEY OPERATE OR THEY HAVE BEEN CALIBRATED FOR THE EXACT MODEL??? I MAY HAVE ACCESS TO A 1995 DODGE RAM WITH HYD SYSTEM... THANKS FOR THE INFO .

[@Glennfix]

They will fit most Dodge trucks and some Jeeps. You have to check and be sure, but I am 99% sure it will fit early Dodge trucks.

[@abdulalhazred4589]

@@Glennfix THANKS, MAN, I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR REPLY, KEEP UP YOUR GREAT WORK...

[@turbogrin]

Where did you get the kit? I have a nv4500 behind my cummins engine in a 2004 Ford Super Duty and I'm having difficulty bleeding this system by myself !!

[@Glennfix]

I found it on ebay

[@turbogrin]

@@Glennfix You wouldn't by chance have a part # or a seller I could contact???

[@Glennfix]

No, sorry it was so long ago.

[@judyhorton5521]

Do you work on people’s trucks and where are you located?

[@Glennfix]

No it is just a hobby

[@modesttea7133]

Hope you see this. So my 91 has always sucked to shift and was always stiff putting it in gear so I decided to bleed the clutch like a brake and pump 3 times hold it and crack the bleeder but now it’s worse. Pedal pretty much has nothibg and the clutch always stays half engaged. To go from neutral to a gear I have to shut the truck off. What could be the problem

[@Glennfix]

It sounds like something with your clutch master or slave cylinders. First, make sure there is no air in the lines. The best way I found to do this is, set a pan under the slave cylinder (on the trans) and open the bleeder valve. Just let it sit add brake fluid as the fluid goes down. Do this till you are sure no air is in the lines. If no fluid comes out leave it open and pump the clutch pedal. Make sure the master fluid reservoir does not go to low. If you still have a problem it is most likely the master or slave cylinder is bad. I replace both together they are not that expensive.

[@briha3142]

Yeah. Just replace the clutch master cylinder along with the slave cylinder, as a complete pre-filled kit, like he shows in the video! It has the hose, the connectors, and it’s filled with the brake fluid, already! Just unbolt all the old ones off, and then bolt on the new fluid reservoir, the master clutch cylinder, and then the slave cylinder, and then push the pin pushrod into the master cylinder, (behind the clutch pedal), and then connect it to the back of the clutch pedal, and you’re done! ez-pz!

[@brucemalmay7880]

If this part is bad what will it cause your clutch to do

[@jonathanwwichtendahl6930]

Doesnt want to go into gear, especially 1st or reverse. And then once it goes bad all the way then the pedal goes to the floor and you have to get towed

[@adamg474]

The clutch was working fine and with out smoke, smell or slipping just quit. The peddle will go down very very easily and will start but will not let me shift in gear at all. The only way I can get it in first and reverse is to shut it off, start it and immediately let foot of break and clutch. Could this fix it?

[@Glennfix]

Sounds like your clutch is holding fine. The master and slave cylinder is the only other thing it could be.

[@dakotacarley8120]

Having this same issue now on an 07 Ram 1500 6 speed. At first the pedal went down easy as I had removed the slave cylinder to get to a leaky freeze type plug on the transmission. After pre filling, bleeding (no bleeder valve had to bleed with reservoir cap off, air bubbles come out the top) the clutch pedal was sloppy. Loose the first quarter of the range and a bit harder than normal the rest of the way. After seeing this I now know the slave was bad the moment I removed it to get to that plug 🤦🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️. New slave cylinder comes in tomorrow hopefully all goes well. Great video!

[@davewoodard4580]

Having problem now. If you shift soon as you push in clutch, like a second, it's OK! Hold clutch at all and clutch loses pressure and dies. I was Researching Slave and Master to see if it'll fix it

[@kaiden9049]

Having the same issue with a 98 ram I bought was told it was the master and slave cylinder, guess we’re gonna find out tomorrow!

[@wanyapierre7218]

If fluid is already in the NEW reservoir when I buy it does that mean it’s already bled?

[@Glennfix]

Yes, all you have to do is install and it will work.

[@briha3142]

That’s right! Unscrew the nuts off the master clutch cylinder, the reservoir cup, and the slave cylinder, fish the new one into those positions, and bolt them all back on! Push the Pin Pushrod into the master, from behind the clutch pedal, and then connect the opposing end to the back of the clutch pedal! And then connect the electrical connector onto the new Pin Pushrod (it’s what starts the motor, when you depress the clutch and turn the ignition key). Nothing to bleed! Sweeet!

[@55Bigdon1]

Thanks

[@Glennfix]

No problem

[@ramonp.fernandez3242]

Thanks for the video! I subscribed.
My 01 Ram clutch pedal gets stuck at the bottom when I press it and it takes a while to get unstuck, do you think this kit could help?

[@Glennfix]

It could be the slave / master cylinder or it could be the clutch. If it only gets stuck when you push the clutch all the way in it is most likely the clutch. Say you push the clutch 1/2 way in and it works fine it sounds like it is the clutch ( but no guarantees this to be 100% ) you have to think how old is the clutch.

[@ramonp.fernandez3242]

@@Glennfix Update.
I got the kit and installed it and it works like a champ! Thank you so much for the video it was a huge help.

[@Glennfix]

Glad it helped

[@jonasramirez2473]

Where did u purchased the kit ?

[@Glennfix]

Amazon

[@jamesbarnett8170]

I have a 01 1500 and i cant even push the clutch pedal in, could this be the problem?

[@Glennfix]

Yes it could be. Most of the time you will have some clutch, the clutch will not come all the way out or it will bypass (when you hold the clutch in and the truck will start to go). It could also be the clutch it self. If your clutch was working good and does not have a ton of miles on it I would think it is the clutch.

[@J.Ray1776]

Could be your throw out bearing stuck. If thats the cause of your problem you might as well change it all while the transmission is out. Good luck.

[@juanmarcosmarquez2902]

what Dodge is this?

[@Glennfix]

01 2500 6 speed cummins, but most are the same in that year range and a lot of jeeps are.

[@jeremiahmeyer8424]

I wish just one damn time that we could watch a help video and not have to listen to a bunch of crap to get to the point

[@1stooge782]

Trying this as I speak but I don't have bleeder valve. It's gonna be fight

[@JourneyToTheTruthandTR]

This video won't play.

[@johnathanbarlow]

@Glenn3505 where can I find that kit?

[@Glennfix]

Just Google ( Dodge slave master cylinder) a lot will come up I bought my on Ebay.

[@TheKillerMarine]

Do you still have this truck?

[@Glennfix]

yes 560,000 + miles and plan to keep it

[@vrea77]

Is clutch fluid better to use.or just stick with dot 3 break fluid

[@Glennfix]

I don't thinks it matters much.

[@vrea77]

Glenn 3505 thanks for the video and reply. Your video was prefect it when exactly the way you showed it. After seeing it i was 80% positive I could do the work. I didn't need the fluid after all just bought it for just in case I need it. The pre-filled clutch work prefect, didn't have to fill or bleed anything. Saw your video on Tuesday bought the kit on Wednesday driving my truck on Thursday. The part was 20 years old first time i change it out a Dodge Dakota bought the truck new , You buddy save me money feel like I owe you lunch...THANKS. Great video I appreciate.

[@elovesent17]

Lamar you have

[@tracyschannel9648]

You will need to loosen the brake master cylinder also. DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW @$%%#@$!!%%^^ thing.

[@Cumminspower187]

My 97 don’t have bolts to remove 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@jakelewis3813]

Exactly! My 97 clutch master cylinder studs are behind pedal assembly!! Wtf?? I have to remove pedal assembly to replace clutch master/slave .......??

[@jakelewis3813]

Ok, no pedal assembly removal! Having no studs thru the firewall means it's a twist off master cylinder from engine side. Easiest one to replace.

[@brandino1495]

Sounds like Nicholas Cage

[@stevehanson5952]

*

[@J.Ray1776]

I ordered my clutch master/slave cylinder pre filled/bled kit for my 2007 Ram. The one on my truck has the reservoir seperate the one they delivered has the reservoir built into the master cylinder. It may still work? But it's raining now i Just can't seem to catch a break. Ordered from PartsGeek.com/ part#SKP:SKCC649038
I got it put in works great.👍

[@Glennfix]

It should work OK.

[@charlesvela259]

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[@walk50]

Why is this so stupid design what happen to standered designs

[@desdicado999]

yeah i was just asking the same question, must of been designed by somebody who does not work on vehicles

[@dodgezilla1012]

You think this is stupid, look at chevy’s setup

[@Elcopaneco1005]

Demasiada paja hablas bla bla bla

[@charlesvela259]

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