I've just bought one of those immersion heater sockets, used some long studding (10mm)with 2 nuts locked together and tapped a large plate to go on the immersion socket and put it all together. Took a deep breath and started to wind the locked nuts - and both bearings wound out! So much kinder than belting them with a hammer. Thank you.
@@TheCADengineerFortunately my previous owner had cut a slot in one arm of the circlip that holds the bearing in the brake drum, but that bearing did not want to come out!
I've just put it all together as per your video but notice from the parts book that there's a thrust washer behind the spline side bearing. I'm now wondering if I have to take it apart to fit one and if I do, the screw retainer won't go down flush. I made a tool like you for that as the tool I bought for those is absolute rubbish!
The thrust washer sits on a small lip on in the inside diameter of the hub and is generally a tight fit and normally there is no reason to remove it. The reason for the washer is the lip of the 2 different diameters where the washer sits is very slight and the outer of the ball bearing race has a radius, this radius would not sit properly against the small step, so by the fitment of the washer against the step gives a wide square surface for the bearing to sit. If all is fitted correctly on that side then when the bearing retainer is screwed down fully it should come flush, if the washer is missing the retainer will screw down below the surface, this will then allow the inner edge of the brake plate to rub on the outer edge of the brake drum. Sorry for the slow reply to this as I am still on my trip driving around Australia and have had no mobile or internet connection for quite a few days. Regards Brian
@@TheCADengineer Thanks Brian. It all sits nicely so I shan't take it apart again to look! Enjoy Oz, "Always fill up when you get to half tank" was the advice we had. Loved the place and am jealous.
I've just bought one of those immersion heater sockets, used some long studding (10mm)with 2 nuts locked together and tapped a large plate to go on the immersion socket and put it all together. Took a deep breath and started to wind the locked nuts - and both bearings wound out! So much kinder than belting them with a hammer. Thank you.
Spot on, regards Brian
@@TheCADengineerFortunately my previous owner had cut a slot in one arm of the circlip that holds the bearing in the brake drum, but that bearing did not want to come out!
I've just put it all together as per your video but notice from the parts book that there's a thrust washer behind the spline side bearing.
I'm now wondering if I have to take it apart to fit one and if I do, the screw retainer won't go down flush.
I made a tool like you for that as the tool I bought for those is absolute rubbish!
The thrust washer sits on a small lip on in the inside diameter of the hub and is generally a tight fit and normally there is no reason to remove it. The reason for the washer is the lip of the 2 different diameters where the washer sits is very slight and the outer of the ball bearing race has a radius, this radius would not sit properly against the small step, so by the fitment of the washer against the step gives a wide square surface for the bearing to sit. If all is fitted correctly on that side then when the bearing retainer is screwed down fully it should come flush, if the washer is missing the retainer will screw down below the surface, this will then allow the inner edge of the brake plate to rub on the outer edge of the brake drum. Sorry for the slow reply to this as I am still on my trip driving around Australia and have had no mobile or internet connection for quite a few days. Regards Brian
@@TheCADengineer Thanks Brian. It all sits nicely so I shan't take it apart again to look!
Enjoy Oz, "Always fill up when you get to half tank" was the advice we had. Loved the place and am jealous.