After watching this I tested a different thermocouple on my machine and had the same problem. It was very easy to fix, if you flip the machine upside down there is a panel held on by four screws. The front panel thermocouple socket is wired to the PC410 controller. I swapped the two wires on the PC410 and rewired the thermocouple the machine came with (I verified it was backwards on a seperate temp meter).
did it improve the accuracy of the temperature measured? Thank you so much, I thought I'd have to remove the top and front panel to do that but this makes it a lot easier :)
@@blackhorserepairs No improvements to accuracy from what I can tell, however both the thermocouple that came with the machine and a random one I had read the same temperature now. I dont have a good temperature standard to test against but I can see what my FLIR says versus the probe.
PCB's are too thermally reflective. The FLIR shows a reflection of the IR heater and not much else. 3D printers use a NTC3950 thermistor that is pretty very accurate and perfect for the temp range we are at but im unsure if there is a board that could translate resistance to K type thermocouple voltage
Hello great video I have one of these and I'm having problems with top heater I changed the bottom heater to 4 600watt elstein I've bought 4 80 ×80 top heater of aliexpress and all were defective don't heat up evenly so I'm trying to source a elstein rfs80 but in UK cost 150 pound
Those heaters never heat up uniformly, that's why you need to compensate with proper temperature curve, set long enough dwell points and slow ramp with low holdback. 4x600W bottom heater definitely gets the job done but you can get the same results with a single 600W but longer cycle. Send some pics once you get all the parts together and let me know how it performs. I will eventually get to building my custom rework station but that will take a while for sure.
Yea I've tried everything with this machine apart from getting a elstein top plate that my next move I removed glass made bottom plate bigger because I thought the original bottom heater wasn't big enough for ps4 ps5 xbox boards I thought by making bottom heater larger it would heat more of the board up
@@peterstorey4360 In my opinion temperature curves are more important/impactful than the size/power of the heaters. It's only the matter of the proper curve for the hardware you have. Do you use any software for rework? Do you have some curves you can share and problems you're experiencing with them?
I heat bottom up to 160 5 minutes then all my ramp is 0.70 all my dwell is 20 140 160 180 200 220 240 then it reflows I let it reflow for 2 minutes then stop the process the apu sits down but when it cools down the apu lifts and dosent sit level
After watching this I tested a different thermocouple on my machine and had the same problem. It was very easy to fix, if you flip the machine upside down there is a panel held on by four screws. The front panel thermocouple socket is wired to the PC410 controller. I swapped the two wires on the PC410 and rewired the thermocouple the machine came with (I verified it was backwards on a seperate temp meter).
did it improve the accuracy of the temperature measured? Thank you so much, I thought I'd have to remove the top and front panel to do that but this makes it a lot easier :)
@@blackhorserepairs No improvements to accuracy from what I can tell, however both the thermocouple that came with the machine and a random one I had read the same temperature now. I dont have a good temperature standard to test against but I can see what my FLIR says versus the probe.
PCB's are too thermally reflective. The FLIR shows a reflection of the IR heater and not much else. 3D printers use a NTC3950 thermistor that is pretty very accurate and perfect for the temp range we are at but im unsure if there is a board that could translate resistance to K type thermocouple voltage
Hello great video I have one of these and I'm having problems with top heater I changed the bottom heater to 4 600watt elstein I've bought 4 80 ×80 top heater of aliexpress and all were defective don't heat up evenly so I'm trying to source a elstein rfs80 but in UK cost 150 pound
Those heaters never heat up uniformly, that's why you need to compensate with proper temperature curve, set long enough dwell points and slow ramp with low holdback. 4x600W bottom heater definitely gets the job done but you can get the same results with a single 600W but longer cycle. Send some pics once you get all the parts together and let me know how it performs. I will eventually get to building my custom rework station but that will take a while for sure.
Yea I've tried everything with this machine apart from getting a elstein top plate that my next move I removed glass made bottom plate bigger because I thought the original bottom heater wasn't big enough for ps4 ps5 xbox boards I thought by making bottom heater larger it would heat more of the board up
@@peterstorey4360 In my opinion temperature curves are more important/impactful than the size/power of the heaters. It's only the matter of the proper curve for the hardware you have. Do you use any software for rework? Do you have some curves you can share and problems you're experiencing with them?
I heat bottom up to 160 5 minutes then all my ramp is 0.70 all my dwell is 20 140 160 180 200 220 240 then it reflows I let it reflow for 2 minutes then stop the process the apu sits down but when it cools down the apu lifts and dosent sit level
I use kingbo flux