Відео

I tried to get 2 in 1 version bit it wasn't available anywhere. The top heater i use is the cheapest available so I doubt there is anything worse than that 😅

if you want to charge SP4 with USB-C charger, just get the converter, they are below $10 www.ebay.com/itm/186208659698

@@blackhorserepairs Thx sir I hoped to do it myself until it arrive , i had a strange problem The surface pro 6 won't turn on , just thr backlight turns on for around 20 secs and then restart again before even the Microsoft logo appears , I tested the charger and it draws only 0.3 ampere when i power on , if i leave it in charger it draws only 0.1 amp!! Can i do any repair or i should open it , knowing i am in Egypt with no experienced repair man like you Thanks

@@midoloka it points to bios issue, you can reflash it but that will likely cause issues (but resolve boot loop). The actual repair is to replace BIOS region but for that you need FIT 16 which I'm also looking for (hard to get). In either case it's not really a job you can do without experience in microsoldering.

@@blackhorserepairs By reflashing bios do you mean just put the bios file on usb , I don't think the USB even loads Do you have Link for the correct bios file???

set the heater to heat up the top of the board to about 150C. Start blowing with 260C from the top, if it doesn't let lose keep increasing to about 280-290, probably don't go above 290 but all depends on the tool you use. Use slow air flow. The nozzle must cover the entire socket and be very low. Let me know how it went. Good luck!

did it improve the accuracy of the temperature measured? Thank you so much, I thought I'd have to remove the top and front panel to do that but this makes it a lot easier :)

@@blackhorserepairs No improvements to accuracy from what I can tell, however both the thermocouple that came with the machine and a random one I had read the same temperature now. I dont have a good temperature standard to test against but I can see what my FLIR says versus the probe.

PCB's are too thermally reflective. The FLIR shows a reflection of the IR heater and not much else. 3D printers use a NTC3950 thermistor that is pretty very accurate and perfect for the temp range we are at but im unsure if there is a board that could translate resistance to K type thermocouple voltage

no, it is not free. My software is fully free and should replace the PSoft if you use IR6500 with single input/output channel (stock version). If you need double input/output I will have the software ready in a few months :)

Those heaters never heat up uniformly, that's why you need to compensate with proper temperature curve, set long enough dwell points and slow ramp with low holdback. 4x600W bottom heater definitely gets the job done but you can get the same results with a single 600W but longer cycle. Send some pics once you get all the parts together and let me know how it performs. I will eventually get to building my custom rework station but that will take a while for sure.

Yea I've tried everything with this machine apart from getting a elstein top plate that my next move I removed glass made bottom plate bigger because I thought the original bottom heater wasn't big enough for ps4 ps5 xbox boards I thought by making bottom heater larger it would heat more of the board up

@@peterstorey4360 In my opinion temperature curves are more important/impactful than the size/power of the heaters. It's only the matter of the proper curve for the hardware you have. Do you use any software for rework? Do you have some curves you can share and problems you're experiencing with them?

I heat bottom up to 160 5 minutes then all my ramp is 0.70 all my dwell is 20 140 160 180 200 220 240 then it reflows I let it reflow for 2 minutes then stop the process the apu sits down but when it cools down the apu lifts and dosent sit level

I use kingbo flux

sure, which connection?

from controller to preheater. I see that the controller instruction is different in the video, it is not clearly visible.

I would like to reball a PS3 RSX but the same preheater does not heat the plate to 180-200 degrees, it only heats up to 140-150 degrees and the preheater marks 400 degrees.

amazing!

Thank you so much for sharing your results. This also confirms the suggestion that there are too many forces working against the sides of the engine. This was suggested a few times. Can you share the animation of the simulation and perhaps some numbers? Thank you so much!

Yeah, that's why I moved from there, shipping was a big problem

Submit a ticket

Submit a ticket and ship it in

of course I'm a little crazy...

interesting. does that address the sealing problem at all?

@@blackhorserepairs I don't know. I think if the end was a roller it could seal it with less friction and may not need oiling on the surface area. Trying to avoid oil/gas mix. So large roller on end of vane and a high tension spring between vane and center mass slot (crank). I think people trying to convert a vane air pump (pneumatic tool) and that won't work ... The center mass should have recess pocket like a rotor for the gas and air to go to as the air and gas gets compressed. 1. Intake Air and Fuel happen in first void, 2. Second void is Compression (Air Fuel are compressed into recess pocket 3. Ignition in 3rd void 4. Exhaust I think that is these models it's hard to see how this compression works...It's in the pocket... At least that's the way I see it. 😆

I guess you could have 6 vanes and two more plugs for a total of 4 plugs (180 out) in an imaginary vane engine...I think the 6 vanes might help the efficiency of this engine.

Maybe the roller thing is just a bad idea..I guess I have something against apex seals...Wait everyone has something against apex seals!

Thank you

agreed, it's an old video

ok, I reached out (via comment), we'll see

thank you!

you think it's the main issue? I also heard that side forces would would make it inefficient, combined with poor exhaust it would make a very inefficient engine :)

not sure

as long as it uses PC410 controller you can use it with any machine. Thank you so much!

Thank you so much Doug!

Thank you so much, that's a great complement coming from you :) I've been watching your channel as well, you came highly recommended by my viewers. Yeah the IR6500 can be very effective if used properly, not perfect but my software makes it a lot easier. Do let me know if you use it, version 1.4 is released

Awesome! Thank you so much!

I would expect that it will work but you can ask on my discord server just to be sure

yes sir, join my discord to download beta version, official release is planned for February

the clamps came with my microscope, not sure where to get those

The customer will report in the comments of this video, sorry you're disappointed

Thank you so much. Happy new year!

yes, there are advantages to flipping the holder arms. The increased distance to the bottom heater doesn't seem to have much impact on maximum temperature since the thermocouple is placed right on the board. Thank you so much!

Thank you so much! Good to have you here

yeah, I'll look into that, thank you so much!

Thank you so much for correcting me

I will mention that for sure

I reviewed the footage and compared the pictures (before and after) there's a good chance it is aligned.

yeah, black marker is hard to read on a dark board. I'll see what I can figure out

@@blackhorserepairs Not for me sicne the imac boards are black, the market is slightly lighter so it helps a little

I guess I have to figure out how to reliably outline it then :) Thank you!

@blackhorserepairs one method I use is to re fit the metal bracket surrounding the socket , it gives n excellent alignment on lotes socket

@@waynetaylor2784 interesting, I was actually thinking about that when reinstalling the bracket but since I do it in one cycle, I can't easily reinstall it when the board is on the machine and heated to 160C

@blackhorserepairs yeah I had a totally busted parts only am5 board so I took whole retention bracket off , pulled the top part off just leaving what butts up to socket, n I don't put on back plate just screw onto board with nut n washers, find heat is still uniform on bga rework station and solder melted nicely, all lotes brackets same on all am5 boards regardless of brand so perfect alignment

Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback. Realistically I can't go over the procedure in every video. Check out my replacement tutorial if that's what you are interested in.

it's a standard class AB amplifier based on a very common design. Does it click when you turn it on? Check the output stage for shorts, confirm the voltages (blown fuse perhaps) and of course check the fault I had on this one.

@@blackhorserepairs I new to working on things like this but as of what I have found on mine so far it seems like it is running overvolted and its at 24v instead of at 12v

blackhorserepairs.com submit the ticket and send it in.

GPU core work is a lot easier than CPU socket, you can use Yihua 853A for a bottom heater and any hot air station. IR6500 that I use will also work but costs a lot more.

@@blackhorserepairs thanks , im looking to get the ir6500 actually. should i also get the yihua 853a as well or i does the ir6500 already have a bottom heater ? also , ive seen people use these little wires which measure the temperature, are they called temperature probes? and can you recommend one to buy? i cant seem to find one to buy

@@trixualz219 IR6500 comes with the bottom heater so you don't need the other one. It also comes with a temperature sensor (thermocouple) but you can find replacement on eBay in case it breaks. I also use 2 additional thermometers and IR sensor. Check out my videos, I shared a lot of that knowledge there. If you're new to this repair, get yourself a pile of cheap broken boards on eBay, after 10 boards you'll get proficient

@@blackhorserepairs thanks so much for your info, i really appreciate it. i am excited to start learning repairs like this and you really helped!

@@trixualz219 glad to hear, that's why I do it. Good luck to you my friend and join my discord if you have any questions

yep

Thank you for the tip! I'll try that

Thank you so much!

good question. this is a free repair, testing is not included. In most cases I just don't have the components like CPU or RAM to test them, in other cases (like this one) I do have them but it just takes too much time. Once I start charging for it and gather components, I will include testing in my videos.

Use a socket tester they are cheap, available for lga1718 lga1700 lga1851 lga1200 etc etc, also PCI-E testers and udimm testers for replacement dimm sockets. Just lights up LEDs to show if all pins are connected.

​@blackhorserepairs see below for testers dirt cheap available from usual Chinese site

​@@blackhorserepairssee below comment

@@waynetaylor2784 I have one for 1151 socket but can't seem to figure out how to use it :) I'll get some more of them I guess. Good advice.