I worked for a company that picked the house off the foundation with big beams and jack , and we would demo the old basement, and build new level one. But this is pretty cool to see. High stress job for sure
I would have pulled it down and rebuilt I do some pretty big projects but this does not seem like it saves any money and a new build is exempt from tax in uk
I am a foundation repair inspector. I quote these jobs weekly in Indiana. This job would cost $80,000 bare minimum. Basement footers in some areas, it looked like lots needed hand dug, indoor and outdoor, needed lift not just stabilization, indoor concrete remove and replace on the slab, engineering, and permits. $80-90k all day long. March 2023.
80-90K all finished? i just got a quote for my home, minimum is 50K...max 80K...however will get more quotes...I did ask the contractor if I can lift the house in increments due to $$$ and he said yes.
Is the number more pertinent to the number of work days, the number of piers, the height to be restored, and other factors? For 80k that's 2k per pier. Does it matter how high the foundation is to be lifted up (because I'd expect lifting back to even should be sufficient).
If this is a slab on grade how do you prevent the slab from snapping in the middle once it is raised up? What do you do to fill the void under a slab or footings once it is lifted up?
What happens to the voids in the soil? I'm about to have this done but with way shorter supports and wonder what will happen with the beams supporting so much weight because of the gaps under the slab.
My guess is polyurethane foam. They drill down through the concrete floor and inject it into the dirt to fill in the voids and support the slab. Very strong stuff.
My dad looked at a Friend’s house for sale, it was a really cool house but it needed this kind of work done. Not the funnest way to start a new home ownership. He decided against it and bought an awesome townhouse near the city’s university instead.
I would have an independent Structural engineer come out. Only they can tell you what needs to be done and without bias. They will show exact placement too.
Can a house settle differentials with no cracking of the block foundation and no cracking of the brick veneer? My floors slope but there’s no cracking or anything
I have a house that is dropping 6 inches in one side. Somehow, the engineer told me that it only needs 12 piers in one side. However, a foundation company is quoting me for 40 piers. Is it common to have a difference in opinion between engineers and foundation companies? Also, what is the likelihood of plumbing breaking in these situations? Are there any ways to prevent this from happening ?.
Honestly, you’re better off doing the job right if you’re planning to stay there and doing the full perimeter and inside house piers. My house dipped 5.5” on the right side and I had a full 37 steel piers put in and I just noticed last week my house has dipped an inch on right side from the last reading the co. did post lift. They are coming back out and adjusting the piers under the lifetime warranty the foundation has now. As far as plumbing, yes something is probably cracked already under your slab and if not it will break with that type of lift needed for sure.
The company will always go for more money. The engineers figure is probably spot on if the primary issue that caused it is corrected by the company doing the job. That's where the issue with many companies comes in, they take the easy way out that makes them the most money. The guy that says he had his done and it sank again is most likely they did not go deep enough to get the proper resistance to start with and they used push piers rather than the screw type.
Do you mind following up with comments about the 1" dip after the job? Was it that something had failed or just the initial depth wasn't sufficient?@@TXCAMSS1
I should have more clear information later today or tomorrow, but the back of my house is built right on the ground and my recent concern was the deeper and weaker dips on the first floor kitchen. My idea wast to open it up and add some cross beams to the existing, or at least what I am pretty sure are the existing three cross beams, besides the end parts. There seems to be 4 foot gaps between the beams on a 9 by 13.5 room, at two places, also with a second story above it as well. Problem is this week I went to pull up the floor in that area and found cement on top of what must be about 1 inch of plywood, and the more cement is on top in the firm shorter area that I was going to let go and the sagging area has less and then no cement. So I opened a 1.25 inch hole to see what was really there and that is how I know it is about 1 inch of plywood. However just about 1 inch below that is dirt... To me that means there is no wise bottom under the kitchen floor and what about the edges, footers are they even there or it is all built right on the ground like some dog box. When i bought it about 12 years ago they told me the house was over 100, but I was expecting a full information package would be given to me after I bought it and there was nothing, so I have guess and found very little about it from the neighbors as well. So I will need to pull up at least one 4 foot section to see what is under it and then I assume start digging to see if there is a support system on the edges. I assume there is since there is not any cracked drywall in that room of the room above it on any of the walls. But it really has me concerned. It also seems that no information is out about how one has ever truly repaired a house setting on the ground with sagging floors. They all are craw space or regular basements...
That sounds like a complicated problem. I actually had an issue where someone had built an additional on a patio slab. It was barely three inches deep and it even had a built in slope. The floor was cracking apart and the neighbors said that it used to flood up through the cracks when it would rain heavy for multiple days. I took a different approach. My first goal was to deal with the water. My thinking was that the floor had already been there for at least a decade so if I could stop water erosion underneath the slab then maybe it would stabilize. I added gutters all around the roof and made sure to run the downspouts well away from the foundation. I added a small patio outside on the southern side (with the most weather exposure) and sloped that patio 2% away from the house and then regraded the dirt with clay on the other side to slope away from the house. On the worst corner that sunk I dug down and added a footer just in one area to stabalize since it was floating in the air. Then I used a grinder to 'chase' the concreted cracks on the inside, I cut slots perpendicular to the cracks, inserted fiberglass reinforcing rods (kinda like stiches), and then epoxied the cracks and rods. I added self leveler mix to reduce the interior slope and then I laid tile over it. Five years later and no cracks or visible movement at all. Maybe my issue was more minor than yours but you might consider fully addressing water control first if you haven't already. There's a youtube channel called Gate City Foundation Drainage where the guy does tons of drainage improvements to help with foundation issues and he shows the most critical considerations. I don't think he actually does the foundation repair though.
I'd say it also depends how deep each pier goes. Some have gone 70 or 80 ft deep. Some only 20 or 30. I wouldn't be surprised if there are buildings going over 100ft deep.
That house is not worth the repairs. The plumbing, drainage, electrical, frame, roof and internal fixtures will all suffer. Knock it down and build it properly.
Probably cheaper to repair than to rebuild because of the basement. This is why some of the piers are inside -- the point being, even after a rebuild, the new house will continue to settle on the same active soil. Piers are needed anyways. It would not matter if the piers support the old basement or a rebuilt basement.
@@BASEcoSystems because they are not a long lasting solution about 40% of the time and their lifespan at the top 4 feet if soils is about 30-40 years. And the economic lifespan of a house is supposed to be 100 years. Thats why.
Easily 60k-85k job. Thats just the foundation work, not including all the work thats going to be needed after with -windows - Interior exterior doors -Walls inside the house like dry wall - Plumbing, Electrical - Exterior brick Hell you are looking at least Another 50k-100k on everything I just listened. So all said and done you're looking at damn near a 150k-200k. And yes that is all inflated price as well.
What a great illustration of the importance of drainage!
and not letting the soil around your house get too dry during a drought causing your house to sink into the shrinking clay soil.
@@pawnreap3r848 this what happens? Mine sunk like a 1/4 inch or something weird. Figured it would sink when it was really wet.
Really sucks.
I worked for a company that picked the house off the foundation with big beams and jack , and we would demo the old basement, and build new level one. But this is pretty cool to see. High stress job for sure
What was the name of your old company? How much would a demo and rebuild of a basement typically cost?
@@nwilson1021 the company was called Everest , and no idea what it cost, I was just a laborer. But definitely not cheap I would imagine.
You really got the JoJ done
They care more about the JoJ than anything else!
$120 in gutter downspout diverters or $65,000 in lifting.
You're not wrong!
don't forget to water 20 inches away from foundation during drought or everything sinks in clay soil
Worth it. Gutters ruin the aesthetic.
@@KatAndCompani 😂😂
Then another 100k to patch it all back up and another 50k for landscape and cleanup fees... I mean...
I am going to fix the drainage of my house tomorrow😢
I would have pulled it down and rebuilt I do some pretty big projects but this does not seem like it saves any money and a new build is exempt from tax in uk
rebuilt the entire house? or just the problem areas?
I am a foundation repair inspector. I quote these jobs weekly in Indiana. This job would cost $80,000 bare minimum. Basement footers in some areas, it looked like lots needed hand dug, indoor and outdoor, needed lift not just stabilization, indoor concrete remove and replace on the slab, engineering, and permits. $80-90k all day long. March 2023.
Why would insurance not cover it?
@@eightfigs3508 because its not on your policy and it didn't happen suddenly
@@eightfigs3508 They never do
80-90K all finished? i just got a quote for my home, minimum is 50K...max 80K...however will get more quotes...I did ask the contractor if I can lift the house in increments due to $$$ and he said yes.
Is the number more pertinent to the number of work days, the number of piers, the height to be restored, and other factors? For 80k that's 2k per pier. Does it matter how high the foundation is to be lifted up (because I'd expect lifting back to even should be sufficient).
Replacement cost is about the same. But tear down is expensive. Going new gives the opportunity to make it more appealing and modern. Tough call.
How much did this job cost?
$$$$$$$
..cant imagine what that bill was like
I wonder how this house is holding up!?
Any ditch or hole 5 feet or more deep has to be shored (regardless of soil type) according to osha.
Some of those were pretty deep.
Shored, or stepped. Notice the stepping in the video.
If this is a slab on grade how do you prevent the slab from snapping in the middle once it is raised up? What do you do to fill the void under a slab or footings once it is lifted up?
We use a product called POLYcrete to void fill as it’s lifted. Check out other videos for info on POLYcrete.
What happens to the voids in the soil? I'm about to have this done but with way shorter supports and wonder what will happen with the beams supporting so much weight because of the gaps under the slab.
My guess is polyurethane foam. They drill down through the concrete floor and inject it into the dirt to fill in the voids and support the slab. Very strong stuff.
My concern would be the foundation more than the slab.
Do not fill around foundation with polyurethane foam it will get into the Interior and exterior perimeter drainage system!
If you want to pressure out under the footing, install PVC pipe under footing before backfill, then pressure, grout with limestone slurry
Glad I watched this, I'm going to fix drain issue, I'm getting the warning signs
Can you give me an idea of the cost of this repair? Thanks
Prolly 75k
I did pressed concrete and only paid 4K. The guy that did mine was doing it as a side job.
My dad looked at a Friend’s house for sale, it was a really cool house but it needed this kind of work done. Not the funnest way to start a new home ownership. He decided against it and bought an awesome townhouse near the city’s university instead.
Do you have a video/recommendation for foundations in a flood zone for a stone house? Haven’t started building yet, still in research phase.
How long does it take for a house to settle 7 inches
At what psi would you start to damage the footer?
You got the JoJ done from HoH SiS!
My house is nowhere this bad and I'm quoted 63k present year 2022. Am i being ripped off????
depends on how many piers, and how much they charge a pier.
Where are you located?
I would have an independent Structural engineer come out. Only they can tell you what needs to be done and without bias. They will show exact placement too.
@@benandsarahsmom engineers recommend a full perimeter job and not half ass it if the piers are recommended
What states do you work in?
Can a house settle differentials with no cracking of the block foundation and no cracking of the brick veneer? My floors slope but there’s no cracking or anything
It sure can.. but why would you bother to measure the height differentials when there is no cracking?
@@GatorWinupbecause the floor slope is not small. It’s 1” in some spots.
I have a house that is dropping 6 inches in one side. Somehow, the engineer told me that it only needs 12 piers in one side. However, a foundation company is quoting me for 40 piers. Is it common to have a difference in opinion between engineers and foundation companies?
Also, what is the likelihood of plumbing breaking in these situations? Are there any ways to prevent this from happening ?.
Honestly, you’re better off doing the job right if you’re planning to stay there and doing the full perimeter and inside house piers.
My house dipped 5.5” on the right side and I had a full 37 steel piers put in and I just noticed last week my house has dipped an inch on right side from the last reading the co. did post lift. They are coming back out and adjusting the piers under the lifetime warranty the foundation has now.
As far as plumbing, yes something is probably cracked already under your slab and if not it will break with that type of lift needed for sure.
@@TXCAMSS1 how much is it doing something like this?
The company will always go for more money. The engineers figure is probably spot on if the primary issue that caused it is corrected by the company doing the job.
That's where the issue with many companies comes in, they take the easy way out that makes them the most money.
The guy that says he had his done and it sank again is most likely they did not go deep enough to get the proper resistance to start with and they used push piers rather than the screw type.
@@2olvets443push piers are for structures with more weight. Helical piers are for lighter structures
Do you mind following up with comments about the 1" dip after the job? Was it that something had failed or just the initial depth wasn't sufficient?@@TXCAMSS1
I should have more clear information later today or tomorrow, but the back of my house is built right on the ground and my recent concern was the deeper and weaker dips on the first floor kitchen. My idea wast to open it up and add some cross beams to the existing, or at least what I am pretty sure are the existing three cross beams, besides the end parts. There seems to be 4 foot gaps between the beams on a 9 by 13.5 room, at two places, also with a second story above it as well. Problem is this week I went to pull up the floor in that area and found cement on top of what must be about 1 inch of plywood, and the more cement is on top in the firm shorter area that I was going to let go and the sagging area has less and then no cement. So I opened a 1.25 inch hole to see what was really there and that is how I know it is about 1 inch of plywood. However just about 1 inch below that is dirt... To me that means there is no wise bottom under the kitchen floor and what about the edges, footers are they even there or it is all built right on the ground like some dog box. When i bought it about 12 years ago they told me the house was over 100, but I was expecting a full information package would be given to me after I bought it and there was nothing, so I have guess and found very little about it from the neighbors as well. So I will need to pull up at least one 4 foot section to see what is under it and then I assume start digging to see if there is a support system on the edges. I assume there is since there is not any cracked drywall in that room of the room above it on any of the walls. But it really has me concerned.
It also seems that no information is out about how one has ever truly repaired a house setting on the ground with sagging floors. They all are craw space or regular basements...
That sounds like a complicated problem. I actually had an issue where someone had built an additional on a patio slab. It was barely three inches deep and it even had a built in slope. The floor was cracking apart and the neighbors said that it used to flood up through the cracks when it would rain heavy for multiple days.
I took a different approach. My first goal was to deal with the water. My thinking was that the floor had already been there for at least a decade so if I could stop water erosion underneath the slab then maybe it would stabilize. I added gutters all around the roof and made sure to run the downspouts well away from the foundation. I added a small patio outside on the southern side (with the most weather exposure) and sloped that patio 2% away from the house and then regraded the dirt with clay on the other side to slope away from the house. On the worst corner that sunk I dug down and added a footer just in one area to stabalize since it was floating in the air. Then I used a grinder to 'chase' the concreted cracks on the inside, I cut slots perpendicular to the cracks, inserted fiberglass reinforcing rods (kinda like stiches), and then epoxied the cracks and rods. I added self leveler mix to reduce the interior slope and then I laid tile over it. Five years later and no cracks or visible movement at all. Maybe my issue was more minor than yours but you might consider fully addressing water control first if you haven't already. There's a youtube channel called Gate City Foundation Drainage where the guy does tons of drainage improvements to help with foundation issues and he shows the most critical considerations. I don't think he actually does the foundation repair though.
How would this work for a townhouse?
All the same. Town home. Two story duplex. Mostly all the same process.
How much does this cost to get done?
From the comments, anywhere from 50k to 90k
This has to be at least a $30-40k job
The company I consult for sells each push pier for $1900 not including other like items like concrete replacement. Closer to 80-90k if I had to guess.
I'd say it also depends how deep each pier goes. Some have gone 70 or 80 ft deep. Some only 20 or 30. I wouldn't be surprised if there are buildings going over 100ft deep.
You’re talking 7 inches but at what point should you worry. Is an inch or inch and a half bad.
and after all that, they owner didn't even fix the gutter 🤣🤣
House built on sand or not proper drainage or built on( not a solid base )
when you need foundation repair, you want foundation repair
and you'd like to save a lot of money, right?
It’s funny to hear all the 70s soul music… Because this guy looks more like the Nickelback lover.
Most of it sounds like some kind of AI imitation of '70s soul music. Like something from a singing greeting card.
Jesus this looks expensive.
So was this house build in bad soil? Maybe organics found? Peat?
5:40 Interesting video, but loose the music, especially the track with the fake-baby-talk-singing. It just makes it hard to hear the narration.
That house is trashed
40x$2500=$100k? Demo the house.
This looks like a 100K type of job...
That house is not worth the repairs. The plumbing, drainage, electrical, frame, roof and internal fixtures will all suffer. Knock it down and build it properly.
Probably cheaper to repair than to rebuild because of the basement. This is why some of the piers are inside -- the point being, even after a rebuild, the new house will continue to settle on the same active soil. Piers are needed anyways. It would not matter if the piers support the old basement or a rebuilt basement.
That sounds logical @GatorWinup However, I do this taking it down is a viable option
All that work and the downspout wasn't fixed to drain away from the house lol
Look micro piers are not always worth it.
I agree with your assessment of the cause but this was not a real repair.
How so?
@@BASEcoSystems because they are not a long lasting solution about 40% of the time and their lifespan at the top 4 feet if soils is about 30-40 years. And the economic lifespan of a house is supposed to be 100 years. Thats why.
@@dekonfrost7 piers are galvanized and/or powder coated.
Easily 60k-85k job. Thats just the foundation work, not including all the work thats going to be needed after with
-windows
- Interior exterior doors
-Walls inside the house like dry wall
- Plumbing, Electrical
- Exterior brick
Hell you are looking at least Another 50k-100k on everything I just listened. So all said and done you're looking at damn near a 150k-200k. And yes that is all inflated price as well.
The new owner is buying for the location and figured that repairing/remodeling would cost less than a total teardown and rebuild.
@@GatorWinupin todays market she would be right on that.
The house looks like it's gutted anyway. They probably factored that into their budget.
Seriously it cost too much might as well tear them down and build new .. the house look bad any way
Easily cracked, so shockwave from bombing like in Ukraine will crack it even more.
it honestly didnt even look worth saving
How much did this cost?