I'm never a purest in any degree. I fully support you doing this suspension update and can't wait to see your reaction to the dramatic benefit the purest folk are going to miss out on.
In joy these videos. I like the mistakes and adjustments you have to make. It’s very real. I hate watching shows that everything is perfect. My hand are still scarred from when I was your age.
Gotta love purest! always telling everyone else what they think you should do with your car...your just installing the suspension that Ford should've done in the first place....and I'm a Mustang fan...had a 1967 and 1968 coupes..loving your content, keep it up!
Hello there, I just saw this, I loved the work on your 1st Stang, working outside all of the time.. I've got big expectations for yer work, now that yer in a real garage!!! On yer M2 kit, I worked with a friend of my Dad, who was a master fab guy, to install a Heits M2 kit, on our 47' Ford, box plates, on top of notched factory rails, back in 1992, just like your economy kit today. Sure it's nice when it falls right in, though, this the custom world, it's not like Legos, if it were, the naysayers would be doing it too. The extra material is needed, allow for the differences and irregularities of old, worn and rebuilt cars, it's the fabricators job, to measure alot, though ultimately to trim and fit up these things, and welder up !!! I've done Mike Maier Sub frame connectors and their Pan hard kit on my 65 FB, they were not cheap, though I still had to cut, grind modify them, to fit my not so perfect rebuilt body car. So spending a lot money, doesn't mean these things just fall right into place.. Keep at it brother. Now I've got find Sara's vids and catch up !!!!
Thanks for the comment! I have not dealt with any of the more “premium” kits. Its good to know most require a bit of fit and finish. I definitely expected it with this lower end kit. Thanks for the info!
If Ford had it available this would not even be a issue. I heard that they tried to put a independent rear suspension but didn't because of cost. To bad it would have made it's handling a lot better,thank God for after market kits.
Just found your channel! Really enjoying the content bro, keep it up. I just finished painting my last build and those blocks would have came in handy!
Now that my crossmember is welded in I have a recurrent nightmare that I installed it backwards with the power steering in back. I know I did right tho. Thats a lot of work welding that kit up. Mine was literally torch cut out of an actual Mustang 2. Got it for free lol. All OEM suspension and factory welds. I just welded tube steel to it for the frame.
I'm enjoying the extra content from AFC, though I'm sorry it comes at the cost of being a nite-owl and double duty for you. Thank you for bringing us along for the ride - this 'stang is gonna be awesome. Can't wait to hear your opinion on the impact of the M2 front end in regard to driving capability once it's all done!
I'm not a pro with body work. I have sanding blocks in my kit.....but nothing like the Linear Block kit you showed. I'm very happy they are a sponsor for you. Always learning something new from you and your associates. Well...back to my rattle cans and cheap masking tape. Also....the millwrights in my old shop back in the 80's always bugged me to have an adequate supply of elephant rod......to help cover enormous gaps when doing fast fabrications. I was their maintenance clerk and design draftsman back in the before time :) I like the fact you are doing something different with this Mustang. If memory serves.....are you running a stock six in this one?
Now i have to make the mustang pretty lol. The rod for gaps is a great idea! And no, i am running the 302 sbf that you see sometimes in the background. Some ask why i didn’t go with something bigger but the budget said 302 it is lol.
Day 2 of watching your videos getting motivated to tackle my 68. Plan is to do a restomod that will 1 day be my sons daily. Got a more "modern" 5.0 302 motor out of a 90s F150 sitting in the corner waiting to be built. But I really want to either do the BOSS 302 Intake or ITBs. but I dont know enough about my motor to find the right parts or determine if what Im looking at will actually work.
People scoff at my fleet of gas guzzlers but I just tell them they're 100% recycled. A couple have been saved from the junker multiple times too. Rebuilt titles should get tax refunds.
Awesome 👍🏽 but yeah it is the manufacture fault it dosn't fit properly as I have found with just regular part's I got and had to modify to fit for replacement part's, but you have done well 👍🏽
I believe your control arm bolts are supposed to be like that. They're tapered so as to wedge themselves into the bushings as you tighten the nut on the otherside of the bolt, similar to the taper on a tierod or ball joint and prevent them from moving. The sleeves in the bushing itself should move on the bolt, the bolt itself should stay in one spot if that makes sense. Im not sure how this will effect things since you've shaved down the taper, just be sure to keep an eye on the bolts and watch to make sure they're not wearing incorrectly.
Thats a good point, but the bolts themselves would not go in at all into the bushings. Im sure with enough wacking of a hammer they’d eventually go in. Either way i will keep an eye on them and track the wear, maybe get some higher quality ones. Thanks!
@rookie__pilot yeah that's the point, when you put the nut on and torque it down with an impact, it should make its way into the bushing as you torque it in. It should be torqued down until it stops moving.
Around 8:47 it sounds like the start of Owner of a lonely heart! Ask Sarah... It's a pity the spacer and the gussetted section aren't one piece to form a pierced tube joint. I reckon it would be stronger. Keep it AFC.
I’m not sure what the instructions said, if it had any, but it almost seems like the new frame rail that you welded on top of the old one was actually supposed to replace the old rail. I bet there wouldn’t be much fitment required at all if you had done it that way. But still looks great either way!
Youre right, im sure it would have looked better. But the instructions specifically stated to notch the frame rail and not replace it completely, imo its much stronger this way because while welding the new metal melted onto the old metal if that makes sense
You sure that you should of just tried to have spread the frame rails and made sure that they are straight.the car is 50 something years old and things could have moved around. When I went to put headers on my mustang I had to put a lowering bracket to the frame it had to be welded in. I drove it around for a little while later I found the frame started to separate away from the torque box and all had to be welded and realigned so it would go straight and turn with out binding up the power ram.
That’s interesting, i did not think of that. I do have a portaram to open up the frame. But the crossmember was soo off i might of needed to spread too much
Hello brother, what possibility is there that you can give the measurements of the bridge that you install on the mustang, I have a 69 and I want to make that suspension
Maybe next time use a set angle to posistion the cross member clamp it to the frame and cross member then it won't wonder when your posistion the cross member and you have good access on 2 sides to tack.
Sounds like Chinese, definitely not ARP bolts. It's best to use USA parts even though they will be more expensive. Unfortunately some of the parts can't or aren't made in the USA. Back when the car was made they didn't have robots putting them together. A funny fact in 1965 the Ford parts went on strike. My 1965 mustang used a Eaton power steering pump not a Ford pump it looked like a tuna can with a bracket to mount it to the engine.
@@rookie__pilot Back in the 80's I bought Unbrako for the mass production machine shop I worked at. For tool and fixtures we obtained the highest grade at the time......12. Smaller jobs where gr. 8 would do I used Spaunauer. Unbrako was stupid expensive but made in the states at the time. Spaunauer is a distributor......not a manufactuer..........so offshore products were inevitable even back then. Unbrako was bought out by Deepak Fasteners located in India. We had a millwright who could break bolts with a snap-on wrench....bare handed with no cheater bar. I'd swear he was not human. He was accident prone and hard on equipment Pretty certain he had no nervous system. He even broke the wrenches that snap-on relunctly replaced after the sales rep personally witnessed this guy at work. This guy was not huge, just abnormally thick He was missing fingers on his right hand from a past accident. He liked that because he could access a bolt in a assembled transmission and make a repair. Crazy great times😄😄😄😄
Did you forget something maybe I don't know possibly like rust protection it can come back and bite in the ass. I don't know, maybe you don't plan to keep the car for long.
Haha youre right i did forget. For the inbetweens. The whole thing will get some sort of sealer/epoxy for protection. But for the panels sandwiched do not have any protection. But here in az thats not a big worry
Those bushings and the bolts are both manufacturing defects. They should have ensured that those bushings were the correct length and that the bolts were milled properly. It's too bad you don't know somebody with a lathe. They could have helped you with milling down the bushings to the correct length and milling the outer diameter of the bolts so that they fit correctly. I don't know why anyone should have a problem. It's your car, not theirs. At any rate, I am enjoying watching you do this build. I'm looking forward to seeing the end result. I did not know that there was a distinction between a professional cholo and an amateur cholo. Also, does this mean this mustang is going to be a lowrider? (jk 😆)
I got my 65 Mustang for 1300$. Im putting in a Mustang II front suspension and cramming a 460 big block in the engine bay. I got the 460 for free from my brothers old rv. Purists can cry all they want idgaf.
Personally, if I bought a complete kit from a company, I'd be pissed if thing didn't fit together properly. I meant, it's a complete kit....Also, if it were a numbers matching survivor Mustang, then I can see people getting upset, but, perspective people...
Hey, you saved this Mustang from the desert. You do whatever you want.
That creeper living that stance life 😂
Yes! Lol
I'm never a purest in any degree. I fully support you doing this suspension update and can't wait to see your reaction to the dramatic benefit the purest folk are going to miss out on.
100% agree 👍🏻👍🏻
its your car do what u want!
Great job rolling with the minor obstacles! And congrats on the sponsorships! Hopefully that gets the ball rolling for more.. 😁
Thanks! Yes hopefully
In joy these videos. I like the mistakes and adjustments you have to make. It’s very real. I hate watching shows that everything is perfect. My hand are still scarred from when I was your age.
Thanks Jeff! I enjoy making these, also i try to protect myself as much as possible because the wife gets upset lol
Everyone has an opinion so you build your car like you want it to be!! Thanks for another great video!
You are definitely right 🤙🏻
You are the Pony Whisperer. Whatever you do, it works.
Pony Whisperer!! I might change my legal name to that
Good stuff. Congrats on the sponsorship and keep up the hard work.
Thanks Jason!
good to see you at it...
Thanks! I should have an update sooner!
Gotta love purest! always telling everyone else what they think you should do with your car...your just installing the suspension that Ford should've done in the first place....and I'm a Mustang fan...had a 1967 and 1968 coupes..loving your content, keep it up!
Right, Thanks!!!
Nice. I saw your insta posts, and was looking forward to this video.
Hell yea!
I've installed two Fatman kits. '51 Ford Woodie Wagon and a '65 Stuebacker P/U. No adjustment, for fit, required.
Hmm, that’s interesting. This is probably the cheapest kit available, so i guess that explains lol. I wonder how different the heidts kit would be.
Really looking good! Thanks for sharing your project with us!
Thanks for your support 🤘🏼
Hello there, I just saw this, I loved the work on your 1st Stang, working outside all of the time.. I've got big expectations for yer work, now that yer in a real garage!!! On yer M2 kit, I worked with a friend of my Dad, who was a master fab guy, to install a Heits M2 kit, on our 47' Ford, box plates, on top of notched factory rails, back in 1992, just like your economy kit today. Sure it's nice when it falls right in, though, this the custom world, it's not like Legos, if it were, the naysayers would be doing it too. The extra material is needed, allow for the differences and irregularities of old, worn and rebuilt cars, it's the fabricators job, to measure alot, though ultimately to trim and fit up these things, and welder up !!! I've done Mike Maier Sub frame connectors and their Pan hard kit on my 65 FB, they were not cheap, though I still had to cut, grind modify them, to fit my not so perfect rebuilt body car. So spending a lot money, doesn't mean these things just fall right into place.. Keep at it brother.
Now I've got find Sara's vids and catch up !!!!
Thanks for the comment! I have not dealt with any of the more “premium” kits. Its good to know most require a bit of fit and finish. I definitely expected it with this lower end kit. Thanks for the info!
If ppl were upset that's tough, you made it so you aren't limited on what engine will fit now!
Saw this kit installed on a’31 Oldsmobile street rod. The owner told me it was a night and day difference in control.👍
This makes me more excited
If Ford had it available this would not even be a issue. I heard that they tried to put a independent rear suspension but didn't because of cost. To bad it would have made it's handling a lot better,thank God for after market kits.
Im not sure what ill do for the rear suspension yet, maybe 4 link. Well see how it rides
Fantastic job. 👍 I really enjoy seeing the work and problem solving needed when building a custom car.
Thanks! Its definitely not always a easy install lol
Just found your channel! Really enjoying the content bro, keep it up. I just finished painting my last build and those blocks would have came in handy!
Hell yea man, just subbed to your channel you do some great work!
@@rookie__pilot thanks man!
Nice to get some sponsored stuff, those body files would of been handy for Sarah's Celica.
I actually final block sanded the Celica with these this last week!
Great one Rookie, keep going!!
🤙🏻🤙🏻
You're the man! Love the detail! Appreciate your time making this video! Subscribed!
Thanks for the feedback!
Lovely seeing this coming together. Thanks for sharing
Now that my crossmember is welded in I have a recurrent nightmare that I installed it backwards with the power steering in back. I know I did right tho.
Thats a lot of work welding that kit up. Mine was literally torch cut out of an actual Mustang 2. Got it for free lol. All OEM suspension and factory welds. I just welded tube steel to it for the frame.
I'm enjoying the extra content from AFC, though I'm sorry it comes at the cost of being a nite-owl and double duty for you. Thank you for bringing us along for the ride - this 'stang is gonna be awesome. Can't wait to hear your opinion on the impact of the M2 front end in regard to driving capability once it's all done!
Thanks so much!
Wrt the glare bolt and bushing. A bit of silicon grease and you'd have been fine. They are flared to squish the bushing
I'm not a pro with body work. I have sanding blocks in my kit.....but nothing like the Linear Block kit you showed. I'm very happy they are a sponsor for you. Always learning something new from you and your associates. Well...back to my rattle cans and cheap masking tape. Also....the millwrights in my old shop back in the 80's always bugged me to have an adequate supply of elephant rod......to help cover enormous gaps when doing fast fabrications.
I was their maintenance clerk and design draftsman back in the before time :) I like the fact you are doing something different with this Mustang. If memory serves.....are you running a stock six in this one?
Now i have to make the mustang pretty lol. The rod for gaps is a great idea! And no, i am running the 302 sbf that you see sometimes in the background. Some ask why i didn’t go with something bigger but the budget said 302 it is lol.
Day 2 of watching your videos getting motivated to tackle my 68. Plan is to do a restomod that will 1 day be my sons daily. Got a more "modern" 5.0 302 motor out of a 90s F150 sitting in the corner waiting to be built. But I really want to either do the BOSS 302 Intake or ITBs. but I dont know enough about my motor to find the right parts or determine if what Im looking at will actually work.
Thanks for sharing. Helpful explanations and the music is just right - not intrusive.
To the purists that don't like you doing this, you're saving this car from the junkyard 😊
See John gets it 👍🏻👍🏻
People scoff at my fleet of gas guzzlers but I just tell them they're 100% recycled. A couple have been saved from the junker multiple times too. Rebuilt titles should get tax refunds.
Awesome 👍🏽 but yeah it is the manufacture fault it dosn't fit properly as I have found with just regular part's I got and had to modify to fit for replacement part's, but you have done well 👍🏽
Thanks! yea I wish it would have fit better out the box but it is what it is!
I believe your control arm bolts are supposed to be like that. They're tapered so as to wedge themselves into the bushings as you tighten the nut on the otherside of the bolt, similar to the taper on a tierod or ball joint and prevent them from moving. The sleeves in the bushing itself should move on the bolt, the bolt itself should stay in one spot if that makes sense. Im not sure how this will effect things since you've shaved down the taper, just be sure to keep an eye on the bolts and watch to make sure they're not wearing incorrectly.
Thats a good point, but the bolts themselves would not go in at all into the bushings. Im sure with enough wacking of a hammer they’d eventually go in. Either way i will keep an eye on them and track the wear, maybe get some higher quality ones. Thanks!
@rookie__pilot yeah that's the point, when you put the nut on and torque it down with an impact, it should make its way into the bushing as you torque it in. It should be torqued down until it stops moving.
Great video keep up the good work =)
Thanks!
Wait, you’re Angel Foodcake? I thought you looked familiar. Subscribed! Love your content, man. Been binging for the last few days, good stuff.
Haha thanks!
Around 8:47 it sounds like the start of Owner of a lonely heart! Ask Sarah...
It's a pity the spacer and the gussetted section aren't one piece to form a pierced tube joint. I reckon it would be stronger. Keep it AFC.
I’m a purest but I like the engineering that goes into a good track car
😎🍺👍🇦🇺
Hell yeah!
WOOOOHOOOOOO I LOVE YOUR VIDEOSSSS❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉
❤️❤️
Awesome content! I watch in envy, hoping that sometime I may be able to do this stuff!
Thanks! Just jump into it lol
Great content very watchable👊
Thanks!
I’m not sure what the instructions said, if it had any, but it almost seems like the new frame rail that you welded on top of the old one was actually supposed to replace the old rail. I bet there wouldn’t be much fitment required at all if you had done it that way. But still looks great either way!
Youre right, im sure it would have looked better. But the instructions specifically stated to notch the frame rail and not replace it completely, imo its much stronger this way because while welding the new metal melted onto the old metal if that makes sense
Great work! Can I ask what type of welder you use?
Thank you! I use an eastwood mig 135!
What a cap kit.
You sure that you should of just tried to have spread the frame rails and made sure that they are straight.the car is 50 something years old and things could have moved around. When I went to put headers on my mustang I had to put a lowering bracket to the frame it had to be welded in. I drove it around for a little while later I found the frame started to separate away from the torque box and all had to be welded and realigned so it would go straight and turn with out binding up the power ram.
That’s interesting, i did not think of that. I do have a portaram to open up the frame. But the crossmember was soo off i might of needed to spread too much
Hello brother, what possibility is there that you can give the measurements of the bridge that you install on the mustang, I have a 69 and I want to make that suspension
Just curious. I didn’t hear you say anything about anti-dangle.
Its your car, do what you want with it.
just found this, great vid. spacer prob. did not fit from two plates drawing in when forming? too much "fixing", IMEO should went back...
Thanks, i couldve sent it back but im sure the next one shipped wouldve been the same sadly
Next time u have to open up a crossmemeber, use all thread washers and nuts and spread crossmemeber
Maybe next time use a set angle to posistion the cross member clamp it to the frame and cross member then it won't wonder when your posistion the cross member and you have good access on 2 sides to tack.
Thats a great idea, the old jack was definitely not helping lol
Super cool, I used to weld these kits for heidts who sold them to speedway
That is awesome to hear!
What crossmember are you using
Bad ass video!
Thanks!
@@rookie__pilot starting a similar build but on a 92 ranger (square body) likely going to use 60s mustang irs kit like yours.
👍👊
👍🏻🤘🏼
Where did you get the kit?
Speedway, i have an unboxing video on the channel with the link to the kit also
Sounds like Chinese, definitely not ARP bolts. It's best to use USA parts even though they will be more expensive. Unfortunately some of the parts can't or aren't made in the USA. Back when the car was made they didn't have robots putting them together. A funny fact in 1965 the Ford parts went on strike. My 1965 mustang used a Eaton power steering pump not a Ford pump it looked like a tuna can with a bracket to mount it to the engine.
Makes sense i might have to source some bolts. Ive always wondered why there were two types of pumps!! Now i know!
@@rookie__pilot Back in the 80's I bought Unbrako for the mass production machine shop I worked at. For tool and fixtures we obtained the highest grade at the time......12. Smaller jobs where gr. 8 would do I used Spaunauer. Unbrako was stupid expensive but made in the states at the time. Spaunauer is a distributor......not a manufactuer..........so offshore products were inevitable even back then. Unbrako was bought out by Deepak Fasteners located in India. We had a millwright who could break bolts with a snap-on wrench....bare handed with no cheater bar. I'd swear he was not human. He was accident prone and hard on equipment Pretty certain he had no nervous system. He even broke the wrenches that snap-on relunctly replaced after the sales rep personally witnessed this guy at work. This guy was not huge, just abnormally thick He was missing fingers on his right hand from a past accident. He liked that because he could access a bolt in a assembled transmission and make a repair. Crazy great times😄😄😄😄
What’s the kit # on speedway website?
91034208-4 1/2
Which kit is that? Can you post a link?
www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-IFS-Narrow-Control-Arms-Coilover-Springs-Stock-Spindles,35676.html
Iam doing a mustang 2 front clip on a 48 fleetline aerosedan
Hell yea, i hope these videos help
@@rookie__pilot i appreciate it thanks for your video
Did you forget something maybe I don't know possibly like rust protection it can come back and bite in the ass. I don't know, maybe you don't plan to keep the car for long.
Haha youre right i did forget. For the inbetweens. The whole thing will get some sort of sealer/epoxy for protection. But for the panels sandwiched do not have any protection. But here in az thats not a big worry
Those bushings and the bolts are both manufacturing defects. They should have ensured that those bushings were the correct length and that the bolts were milled properly. It's too bad you don't know somebody with a lathe. They could have helped you with milling down the bushings to the correct length and milling the outer diameter of the bolts so that they fit correctly.
I don't know why anyone should have a problem. It's your car, not theirs. At any rate, I am enjoying watching you do this build. I'm looking forward to seeing the end result.
I did not know that there was a distinction between a professional cholo and an amateur cholo. Also, does this mean this mustang is going to be a lowrider? (jk 😆)
Hopefully they cause no issue, haha!! Now i have to make it a low rider lol
Who makes this kit? I think I'd rather buy one with better fitting components.
Any reason the manufacturer failed to finish sub ass'y? Weird.
Good question, this is one of the lower priced kits so im just grateful all the parts came in lol
I got my 65 Mustang for 1300$. Im putting in a Mustang II front suspension and cramming a 460 big block in the engine bay. I got the 460 for free from my brothers old rv. Purists can cry all they want idgaf.
Hell yea!! That sounds like a hell of a deal, thats going to be a rowdy engine!
If you put on alum heads and alum intake.
exchange for grade 8 bolts only
It looks like it won't fit because the filler square tube you installed, btw that piece only fit on the car it was prototyped on.
Personally, if I bought a complete kit from a company, I'd be pissed if thing didn't fit together properly. I meant, it's a complete kit....Also, if it were a numbers matching survivor Mustang, then I can see people getting upset, but, perspective people...
Why didnt the purist buy it and build it "right". They just complain because you have the csr and they dont.
Well said!
You must know someone with a lathe.
Thats funny because i actually dont lol
I wouldn't install those poorly manufactured parts... Send em back!
Be safe.
Might have to get some quality ones myself, im sure they would just send the same thing
MII isn't an upgrade
measure twice cut once dude cake
lol
Haha dude cake
M2 style suspension is NOT an upgrade, its a necessary evil IF you need to remove the shock towers for room.
Does it make it worse that im only installing a 302 that would have fit anyway? Lol
@@rookie__pilot just makes you look like you didn't research the idea.
@@redneckgearheadgarage495 we have an angry purist in the comments everyone 🚨 ‼️
@rookie__pilot lol name calling, a sign of a weak mind. You assume you have the power to make me angry.
@@redneckgearheadgarage495 I assume no power, i love banter 😎