I have found that certain Acer palmatum varieties root reliably and others do not. Keep trying different varieties until you find out which one will root from cuttings.
The trick is heat 20-25 degrees C and bright indirect sun light, be it natural or a shop/grow light… If you can keep them warm and under light that’s 6500 kelvin colour and 5000 lumens, in an inorganic substrate, 3-4 weeks they should have roots
I’ve had some rookie success but never covered them.. and then the heating pads in winter seemed to have dried them out. What would you suggest if I start trying cuttings now? I have a greenhouse I keep at 40 degrees in winter with heating pads. Thanks !!
I know it's been 3 months, but just incase anyone reads this and finds it helpful - I was lucky enough to get an 'Arakawa' cultivar that came grafted on to unknown rootstock, I take cuttings from it every growing season (I do them before the new shoots have lignified) and 100% that have rooted are 'Arakawa'. The variety or cultivar will always be that of the Scion, not the rootstock.
@@antiduckable I guess my question is, will the roots be as reliable, hardy, but yet not too intrusive, as they are with chosen root stock? I know some maples can lift sidewalks, disturb home foundations, etc. I had thought that japanese maples are grafted so that they are healthy yet safe to plant in smaller landscapes.
@@ZzTop-vj5woIt depends on the cultivar really - some are more hardy than others and some are more compact than others, Crimson Queen for example, you can just plant it and forget about it and it'll stay compact; if you want even more compact there's Elizabeth.
![Buy a big tree and make a lot of small bonsai [Bonsai Q]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for sharing..im going to have to make this box.
I’ve never had much luck with cuttings so very useful. They just never seem to get root. All the best from the UK 🇬🇧
I have found that certain Acer palmatum varieties root reliably and others do not. Keep trying different varieties until you find out which one will root from cuttings.
@@JonnyMaple I will keep on trying, thanks
The trick is heat 20-25 degrees C and bright indirect sun light, be it natural or a shop/grow light…
If you can keep them warm and under light that’s 6500 kelvin colour and 5000 lumens, in an inorganic substrate, 3-4 weeks they should have roots
Oh great a new video! :D
Thanks for the update.
I’ve had some rookie success but never covered them.. and then the heating pads in winter seemed to have dried them out. What would you suggest if I start trying cuttings now? I have a greenhouse I keep at 40 degrees in winter with heating pads. Thanks !!
Nice ideas. But could you zoom in to your cutting. It was a bit to far to see your cuts. Thank you
Cut angle? Dont worry cut em any angle plant with good vibes and they will root
Please define‘protected’ environment, meaning under a semi-covered area, or garden with shade area? How much sun and is it filtered or half? Thanks
Where will you put them when the winter comes ???
In my Zone 8b garden, I can leave them outside. If you live in a zone 7 or below, you will need to protect them for the first winter.
I thought Japanese maples were always grafted to a root stock? How will the roots differ from cuttings?
The generally accepted method is to graft, but I have had good results from rooting select varieties of Acer palmatum trees.
I know it's been 3 months, but just incase anyone reads this and finds it helpful -
I was lucky enough to get an 'Arakawa' cultivar that came grafted on to unknown rootstock, I take cuttings from it every growing season (I do them before the new shoots have lignified) and 100% that have rooted are 'Arakawa'.
The variety or cultivar will always be that of the Scion, not the rootstock.
@@antiduckable I guess my question is, will the roots be as reliable, hardy, but yet not too intrusive, as they are with chosen root stock? I know some maples can lift sidewalks, disturb home foundations, etc. I had thought that japanese maples are grafted so that they are healthy yet safe to plant in smaller landscapes.
@@ZzTop-vj5woIt depends on the cultivar really - some are more hardy than others and some are more compact than others, Crimson Queen for example, you can just plant it and forget about it and it'll stay compact; if you want even more compact there's Elizabeth.