Peacoat Guide - How To Buy & Pea Coat Style Tips
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- Опубліковано 10 лис 2015
- Discover more about the iconic peacoat - its history, sizing, style tips, and where to buy.
Click here to get to the full Peacoat Guide: gentl.mn/peacoat-guide
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I'll briefly discuss the peacoat's history, its characteristics, the fabric, and how you can buy one and what you pay attention to.
It's not entirely clear where the peacoat actually came from:
- There is a Dutch version that says it came from the word "pijjakker"
- There is a Reefer version which came from the men who climbed up the mast
- Others say it was the British manufacturer Camplin in the 1850s who invented it
- Some others argue that it first appeared in the tailor and cutter in 1869 as a pea jacket
One of the most important parts of the peacoat is its fabric. The fabric used for peacoats is called Melton, which is a woven fabric usually made of a 100% wool sometimes with a cotton weft. I suggest you go with a 100% wool versions which are higher quality and overall the coat is not that expensive.
One of the defining parts of the peacoat is its collar. It's called an ulster collar, it's very wide and it allows you to actually pop it up and button, that way you're protected from the elements and it keeps you really warm when it's raining or when it's windy.
A peacoat has 8 buttons, it's always double breasted so four on one side and four on the other side. Then, you have a 9th button on top that allows you to wear your collar closed. The traditional peacoat buttons have a little anchor on them and are black plastic buttons, which are very popular today.
Even brands like Ralph Lauren have come up with their own interpretation of that style but if you go to a regular military surplus store, they will definitely have the original navy issue pea coat. Of course, they've changed a bit over the years but there's basically two options: the black plastic buttons or gold brass buttons. The black plastic buttons are reserved for sailors at the US Navy whereas the gold buttons with the eagle on them are reserved for officers and chiefs.
The traditional cut of the pea coat is rather slim and it's actually wide at the bottom because the reefers had to move up and down the mast so they need a little bit more space. Usually, you will either see two short side vents, or no vents, or center vents for peacoats.
The length of the peacoat is very important - it reaches down to your hips, maybe a little past your hips but not any longer.
Peacoats have been around for a long time and even today, you can find old ones from the 30s, 40s, 50s, and 60s. Every peacoat comes with a little bit of history, you can usually find the owner's last name in there and if it was a US Navy peacoat, you can always find the four last digits of the social security number.
There is a store called Sterlingwear in Boston, I suggest you look on eBay, military surplus stores or consignment stores, you'll always find them there and they are usually well under a hundred dollars and considering the quality and the warmth, it's an amazing deal. Make sure you get the heavy about 24 ounce, 750 grams melton cloth.
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One of the biggest reasons I love this channel is because no matter how old the videos are, they always remain relevant.
Always looks great formal or informal and easy to care for. I've worn mine for 46 years and it still looks brand new.
Recently bought one exactly like that from a local vintage shop, but was unaware the collar could be buttoned up that way. To be honest, I didn’t even know that extra button was even there! So, thanks a lot for that nice little surprise.
I bought a US navy issued peacoat from the early 1920's. It was quite hard to find but well worth the wait
How much did it cost and where did you buy it?
Navy pea coats are very good. You can find them in military surplus stores.
I took your advice and checked out a local military surplus store and found a vintage Swedish navy peacoat made of 100% wool. This Swedish version has brass buttons and is slightly longer than the US version. It only cost $49.95. Toss in another $21 for dry cleaning and I’m good to go. Thank you for your advice.
That’s awesome
I have had a peacoat for years. And it is everything on this video. Its very warm, very good for outdoors, and nice casual and somewhat formal wear. A all round must have.
I got a WW2
Navy Merchant Marines
Pea coat that goes to my calf.
It's the coolest.
But I live in Vegas so I don't get to show it off very much.
Then it's not a peacoat but an overcoat.
That either a great or over coat not a pea coat. Pea coats stop at the waist.
Thanks for the wonderful video! I just bought a lovely navy blue peacoat, heavily reduced, at a local flea-market. So warm and dense! And it's a proper, double-breasted overcoat, which is what I like. And even better - it buttons right up across the chest, always a useful feature in winter.
Great video, I am getting a Pea Coat for Christmas along with a new grey sports jacket. Love your videos sir.
It's an original Officer coat from the 1990's but I couldn't tell you what company made it.
Gentleman's Gazette I really like having a peacoat in my wardrobe, but I do not like that even the quality coats all seem to have polyester linings. Do you believe it is worth it to have the coat relined by a tailor? If so, what do you recommend generally? Thank you.
@@gottfriedosterbach3907 I avoid synthetic material too - what is even more worse, are some Hugo Boss suits mixed with polyester and silk, absolutely a shame, you should never mix precious materials with cheap chemicals.
@@nopeynope7378 wool more precious than silk, i dont know only in my country or around the world
It's probably DSCP Quarterdeck Collection
I found a Navy blue peacoat with gold buttons at a antique store. Heavy and mint. Beautiful coat
Thank you so much for this video! You saved me a lot of money. I went to a military surplus store and bought an authentic peacoat that's 100% wool for a much lower price than designer peacoats.
Great Channel!!! I always look forward to your videos
I have a vintage peacoat in dark navy from Dunhill of London passed to me through my grandfather luckily it fits me well, it's 100% wool vs now they blend their wool with polyester
Am I the only teenager fond of videos like this? I hope not.
ruzzell907 No of course you aren't! May I ask how old you are?
I'm fourteen and I love these videos!
I am 14 and i like classic style
You are not alone
I’m 19 I like dressing nice
I bought a peacoat from Ralph Lauren. Very nice. I can wear a Shetland under it. That high collar is very worthwhile. I had a peacoat in eight grade with the black nautical buttons. I seem to like them again. That is one reason I got my Ralph Lauren version last year from Macy's. Second reason is that I gave away my thrifted wool topcoat. It was too tight, being an Italian cut. I have two Burberry trench coats. One is double breasted. All of these coates are helping me get through our Midwest winter. By the way, I wear a scarf and a wool sweater with my peacoat.
Excellent video! Very insightful, I love your channel.
Thank you!
i baught a Peacoat from Boggi last October in the for 330 euros instead of 450. It is a bit more modern tailored than a classic peacoat and it has 20 percent plastic in it, but I just love the nautic, military style and over all, it is just one of my best fashion purchases ever
I just picked up a Schott Peacost at the thrift store for $12. Thanks to this video, I knew what to look for.
Just magic how to address all the things I like or would like. Man you are gooooood!
I love your videos! As a general principle, do you think a peacoat is a good fit for a middle aged man (mid 40s through 50s)?
Mine was issued in the Navy almost 30 yrs ago and I still wear it
Very Informative! Swen. I enjoy your video!
Thanks!
The originals were 32 oz. Wool. The last years of the U.S. peacoat (they were discontinued as an issue in 2019) were 24 oz. Athough they are a nice coat they are significantly thinner and come off as more for aesthetic and dress purposes than actual workwear as they were intended. Find a 32 oz. If you want a true peacoat.
I got a nice one at old navy for $53 . It looks great with jeans and my black Chelsea boots . And it's warm .
I love Pea Coats. Since I tend to have highly informal situations like working out and a overcoat would look redicolous with sweatpants. So I really like the versitility.
However I also found that the military peacoats I could find in thriftstores, where usually cut way to boxy for my tall and slim self.
Genial !!! acabo de comprarme uno y necesitaba saber todo al respecto saludos desde Chile un Abrazo.
I just have to subscribe to your channel. I like class and perfection, and I get that from your videos. It would be a honor to shake your hand.
Hello Sven. Which headgear do you suggest with a peacot? Thank you for your videos!
love your work
Great sense of style
Just re-watching this after all these years. I meant at the time to mention that for a few years in the '70s, enlisted men (other than Chief Petty Officers) were issued the Peacoat with pewter buttons with eagles. So, they looked like the gold ones, but in pewter.
Very nice and detailed presentation of a pea coat. Any brands that you can suggest to buy a quality pea coat please?
Most friendly advisories & comprehensive reviews
Thanks for posting the his video.
Love peacoats!
My uncle gave me his from when he was the Navy. It was made 1975 and has silver-colored pewter buttons.
Could you make a video about driving shoes, like the brand tods? I would really be interested to know more about these pair since they are very colorfull and elegant designed. Great video, thank you
+Heartrender1st I'll put it on the To Do List In the mean time, read our driving mocs guide www.gentlemansgazette.com/moccasin-driving-mocs-guide/
They r kinda Loafers....boat shoes r with laces....and driving moks r without them!
Every man should own a Peacoat I've got a couple of Schott ones but my favorite one I own is my Paul & Shark one as the quality on it is insane.
Can you advise on whether brown tortoise shell colored buttons are worn on a traditional peacoat?
Your videos are really useful but you don't put enough of them out there weekly would be great
+Karl-David Louis WE are publishing one video weekly, so I don't know if you are missing something here.
+Gentleman's Gazette always Wedneday
Great video. I know I'm only six years late in watching but...I have a question. I was in the US Navy and still have my issued Pea Coat. We were taught to close it left side over right. But I have seen some Men with them closed right over left. I've seen women wear it right over left but I figured that is women's style like the zippers on jackets. Can you explain which is correct and if I/we were taught correctly why some men wear it the opposite. Thank you.
Melton Wool comes from England, most specifically Leicestershire. The best is 100% wool, which the U.S. Navy only used, they never used blends. Blends are a compromise. The former Official supplier of the peacoat for the U.S. Navy was Sterlingwear of Boston, which basically kept them in business. Now the Navy has stopped ordering them, a real shame like many things these days. Sterlingwear of Boston still exists, but it's difficult to do any business with them online - you need to go to their store in Boston.
Melton and Loden wool are the same thing. The difference comes from the countries - Melton is what it is called in both England and Canada, while Loden is what they call it in Germany. For some reason, some companies have mistakenly called certain garments in their line "loden" - but as a color (usually a shade of green) and is in no reference to the type of fabric. I'll be doing a video on my channel soon on my winter layering systems I use, and you will see a great deal of wool involved.
Got a pea coat from some random shop for £20 well £40 if it wasn’t on offer. And it’s really nice and warm.
Are there any Winter/rainproof pea coats that really keep you warm in the Swedish Winter!? Please advice
I have a banana republic pea coat without the collar button, should I return it or tailor it?
Buy one size bigger than you usually wear. I like to wear mine with a sweater or sweatshirt underneath and I need the extra room. If you are going to wear it over a shirt and tie your normal size may work. But versatility may be useful.
thank u sir!!!
How do you find the proper fit it someone were to order online?
I’m 16 and i hate what kind of clothes teenagers wear today
Would any fellow gentleman provide the song played towards the end of the video?
You are quite right on the weight & quality of the wool. However, a decent pea-coat or any wool overcoat should have around 10% of nylon (preferably), or polyester, for water repellency.
What Kind of effect would I get from changing plastic buttons to gold buttons?
What is your opinion on heavy cotton peacoats ?
The best ones are Kersey wool. Melton was later on.
Can i get it custom made out of tweed? Melton would be hard to find in India
I am really enjoying your channel but you need to raise you volume on the recording again I am loving this channel keep up the great work
lovely
Sven, mine is in Cadet Blue with gold buttons. It has 3 black stripes in the sleeves. Would you remove those? Thanks!
Gentleman's Gazette what color pea coat should i get for my first pea coat other than black, i dont wear alot of suits yet but i like the style of these coats so i wear alot of casual but im not like baggy casual so what would be a good color for my first one!
Navy blue
May i ask a question about functionalty? Why sailors used a coat made of wool doesn'it impregnates with water? How does this kind of jacket perform under the rain?
Great video SIr,
could you tell me what brand the peacoat is that you are wearing in the video
best regards :)
+Oscar 32 Original US Navy issue.
Any recommendations as to where I can purchase a camel color Peacoat for under $300?
I was enlisted US Navy in 1980 to 1987. The pea coat I was issued had silver colored metal buttons.
I had a pea coat made for me in the Middle East from camel hair. It’s awesome.
Is your peacoat black or navy? All the Sterlingwear peacoats i can find seem to be black.
I was in the Navy and when I left someone stole it out of my bag during transfer. Before I was into style, I said aw that sucks now I'm like aw d@mn it! Lol
Melton wool? Nah, you want an earlier heavier one made from Kersey wool. The Melton wool coats had to have a synthetic liner added to make up the warmth. The Melton fabric is 28oz, while the genuine Kersey is a thick 32oz's of heavy 100% wool. I have 2 from 1968 and I wouldn't trade them for a Melton coat.
@indy2867 cool. How do you know they're from 1968? I have an authentic navy coat, 100% Kersey wool 32oz, would love to know its date.
What kind of pants and footwear go well with a traditional US Navy peacoat?
Bro your the best--just subed!
I'm 19 and in university... why am I into older fashion? haha.
Anyway, would you say pea coats are for in between seasons, Autumn and Spring?
The Cigarette Smoking Man lol same I'm a freshman in high school and I love these older style of coats
got to be eccentric to appeal to the ladies my man, don't be basic.
wise words my friend...
I live in Quebec, Canada. The peacoat can be seen very commonly
can you wear this over a jacket or is it weird?
Sehr interessantes Video! Wie immer :-)
Ich hoffe auf weitere dieser Art und verbleibe mit lieben Grüßen
+BuryMeDown Danke! Bitte sharen.
Ja wol
I think next video should be Blazers...:D
+Mandeep Baweja it won't be ;). It takes a lot of time to do videos, so we have everything planned out weeks in advance.
one Question. I have a Trenchcoat with Plasticbuttons. Is it not better, when I remove these buttons and use Silver Militarybuttons?
. O.E. personal preference, if you like the look of the metal buttons I don't see why not, I doubt it affects performance too much
The peak is one of the jackets where you can actually pop the collar but don't button it, it looked much better
i have a east german peacoat with 10 brass buttons on it
Where would one find a 100% wool peacoat? Even the more expensive ones I find in stores are wool blends.
HaVOK
In a naval exchange Clothing Sales
Military surplus from ebay or thrift store.
HaVOK where
Do the other branches of the US military have pea coats?
I'm a woman and i absolutely LOVE peacoats. Especially when i see a man wearing one.
I’m a man and I absolutely LOVE women who love peacoats. Especially when I see their last name is Willaims
@@devonhayes2209 Simp Alert
Top coats next!! :D
+Jones Martins Have you seen this www.gentlemansgazette.com/overcoat-topcoat-jacket-guide/
Woah! Thanks. :D
They all r top coats :)
I live in Romania. I usually buy my stuff most of the time from boggi milano other times from about you from different companies. I really want to buy a quality peacoat in 100% wool. It doesn't help it's summer but even in winter you won't find them easy or like las winter boggi had one with a hoodie some polyester and all that... does any one know a retailer where i can get one in this region? I don't want to spend more than 600 euro at the most, there are some at 3000 euro 5000 even ...not going to go that far :(
ohh i love peacoat
+Apurva Gaikwad good!
Why does my Burberry peacoat have its only two horizontal flap pockets sewn shut? Am I supposed to remove the threading to use them?
Dude I have had many coats where they will lightly sew together the pocket with just a couple of threads. You can cut those open with an exacto blade or scissors, just be careful. Because the pockets are meant to be fully functional and not just decorative. For example, just picked up a used Chaps peacoat and one of the two pockets are still sewn shut. The open one is a normal pocket to put your hand in, I still have to cut open the other
🔥🔥🔥
I wear a peacoat when it’s cold in Texas I got mine from a thrift store
I have one. There is nothing like wearing it on a winter day by the water.
7 years wow
Did you do this video partially in honor of Veteran's Day? ;) Hmm, you aren't sneaky Raphael...
+Nick Zimmermann It was not coincidence that it launched that day ;).
Sven, can I wear a peacoat instead of a jacket ( in a style of shirt with tie and a sweatervest) . I'm also overweight ( actually now that I think of it , obese ) so, is this type of coat for me?
@S D I know that mate , but I really like peacoats/ navy guy style( we had kinda a sailors/ fishermen tradition in the family till last gen)
Why do some peacoats have shoulder buttons with a strap attached?
Reed those are called epaulets. Very common on military-style inspired clothing including the common trench coat. I've been looking and I haven't seen any of those on a peacoat. But if a designer wants to do that I guess they can
Well, this means that the style of coat I'm trying to identify is not a peacoat. LOL. Anyone know what they call the long coats that are worn by TV Detectives? Seem to be single-breasted but long. I've seen them described as "peacoat" when being sold but I think they are mislabeled?
I brought a peacoat size 6x and it was way too big for
were can I buy one in southern California
Why do you need one in south California
Mr.Coyote .H Look online or any surplus stores
M&I Surplus in Pomona.
Brooks Brothers
+TheElusion do you like it?
My coat covers my but but not entirely so it seems it's a tiny bit shorter, but the rest of the coat fits me perfectly and i mean perfect. Should i leave it this way?
Man that intro is so jazzy
I likthe more rugged working class peacoat from victorian england. I might put mink oil on it
80% is very acceptable.
Sterlingware is now closed : (