I love the video and you showed all of us who have never done this before how to do it properly. There will be times when I will have to do just that when working with walls.
This is great! I have been wanting to remodel my basement, but my family recommended that we pay a professional to do it to "make sure it gets done right." But these videos are making me reconsider... I may do this myself! Thanks!
I have used tapcons, redheads, drive pins, remshot nails and cut nails in the past. I ordered some of these online and am setting a bunch of walls on concrete. They work great, a lot easier than redheads and they will not strip out and break like tapcons. And they will not loosen up like the remshot nails when bumped. Thanks for the channel with all these great tips.
excellent, straight forward demo of what looks like a really useful product. think I'll skip the screws and go with these anchors instead. again, thanks.
@militarysims I have always left air space between old rock walls and new wood wall framing. There is a possibility of creating leaks if you mess with old stone. The outside of building is particularly important to not disturb. The compacted earth is the best defense against leaks+++Bob
WHOAAAA! A treated plate is recommended for use on bottom plates. If there is not a water issue in basement then removing bottom plates would be OVERKILL. An old phrase comes to mind"If it aint broke don't fix it" When doing any new or repair work then treated.The only way I would tear out existing structure is if there was a safety issue,I cannot believe this fits that criteria, yes mold only if water condition exist, and then I would only fix water issue and replace affected wood only+++Bob
Using a ramset fastener will work but I have noticed you get blowouts where the nail does not seed into concrete.Consistent results sometimes better than speed.When putting in small plates a ramset can sometimes split the plate while nailing.===Bob. I did not say this was the only way to do it but I believe it to be the best,most consistent way of doing it.
Bob great video. I was planing on building some pour in place concrete walls. Is this method good to use on the base plate of the forms? Ie base plate to hold bottom of form nailed into the footing or do you recommend a different method to hold the bottom of the forms? Im just concerned over the removal work after I remove the forms. Thanks
Thanks - I'm building a sandbox for the kids and I'm attaching it to our concrete patio in the back. Dug out all the dirt around the concrete and din't know how to go about attaching the wood nicely to the concrete. Much obliged!
I just tried using a ramset w/ the highest strength shots available for the model I was using (HD2022 I believe) and it didn't drive the nails in far enough... so now I've got an un-anchored plate and holes in the concrete. I plan to use your method now bob, but my question is - do I need to worry about patching the holes under the plate now before drilling and anchoring w/ the split drives? Love your videos - thanks.
If its against your lease to drill Tap-Cons into floor (they are removeable) I would put some silicone under it. We use it to keep granite countertops from sliding around and should work, Good luck +++Bob
Hello what's the best way to build 2 exterior walls in existing concrete garage door to convert it into a living space. I live In FL, does the bottom half need to be in concrete or should I use treated woods?
Mainly just a partition, I may use some pegboard on one side to hang some wrenches and other small hand tools. These walls are just to break up the space to but stuff behind and out of site in my new woodshop.
Hey BOB You can speed up the process by drilling the hole in the treated floor plate with the 1/4 inch roto hammer bit saving one step. Drill in 3/4inch over depth and roget cleaning the debris away. Also why buy a split drive fastener when 2 -16d green vinyl sinkers are cheaper and you already have some in your tool bags? Great video.
A carbide tip with hammer drill action holds up pretty well in concrete,that being said water would probably increase bit life but not enough to justify the mess.===Bob
Try a Senco air driven framing nailer with hardened nails. Bang Bang Bang you're done. Holds like an SOB in concrete. After you're done anchoring the pressure treated plate to the concrete, use it to build your walls. Makes the job almost fun.
@usmc8542 It has been my experience that even if you find the proper powdered shot the plates sometimes tend to split or the nail does not penetrate and hold properly. That being said, using the proper eye and ear protection and if it works well for you it is definitely less expensive. +++Bob
Generally speaking you keep flush and adjust stud length, however if floor is dramatically out of level some floor leveling may be required if its bad enough to justify and that is a judgement call on your part. +++Bob
@mikecoscia Sometimes its difficult to figure the correct load size to use and ,depending on concrete make-up,have a tendacy to split plates and blow-out concrete. I have had more consistent results with the split drives +++Bob
You said one every two feet. If you're doing a very short, non load bearing wall (say 18 inches), should you just put one in, or is it better to add a second one?
The only difference I have with your system is the add an 1/8 th part. The floor system is already supported by the existing structure. If you lift and put upward pressure on the floor above, depending on floor coverings, you can crack tiles, lift existing walls causing cracks and improper door closings, cause floor squeeks that did not happen before. When measuring my studs to fit between top and bottom plate I make my measurements slightly light.
Good stuff, Bob.. however I have learned that when dealing with basement applications, you have to worry about all sorts of moisture issues. One being wood over concrete. So what is the solution? My case is, I have a floor to remove while walls remain. I'd have about 3" space from concrete to wall. So do I use a vapor barrier? if so, how to apply, can I screw wood over it? and whats first barrier or 2x4? Also, it looks rotted under there now, so can I use pressure treated wood? I need help man.
@rmcdaniel423 There is a similar type that looks like a fluted galvanized 16 penny nail that also works very well that they sell at my local Home Depot.+++Bob I believe the drilling size is 3/16 instead of 1/4
I am about to add a wall snide my detach garage that is finished. Was wondering if this is a base plate and you add a wall on top of what you did here. Also I have 9 foot ceilings with sheet rock and was wondering what the stud lengths should be since I will be placing a complete wall on top of what you showed here?
@trailblazer2985 You could add top plate to ceiling then get 10 ft. studs and cut them individually to fit between plates. Most garage floors have slope to them to allow water to run out of garage or to a floor drain making a standard size stud not viable. +++Bob
If it were open already and not weight bearing I would cut out and replace plate,but as I said I would not open anything that did'nt have to be opened just to replace plates+++Bob
I am assuming you are talking about a ramset or some other type of powder actuated concrete nail-gun. It has been my experience that they have a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold.They also have more of a tendency to split small plates and lastly it can be difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications==Hope this helped+++Bob
Lol, It was a crappy bit but as an excuse the bits and drill I use on a daily basis were on a job and I decided to make the video that day with what I had available as far as drills and bits. Hope it did not take too much away from the spirit of the video. +++Bob
is that up to code? when i built my garage i was told by the inspector to use only anchor bolts. i also added a three inch metal washer to each anchor bolt.
@halleysmommy A good connection between top and bottom of wall is critical to keeping wall stable. As far as the holes in floor, unless you have a serious water pressure problem comming from below is generally not an issue.+++Bob P.S Never be embarassed to ask questions!
Bob, I have just rented warehouse space. I need to build a few temporary walls and am not allowed to drill into the concrete floor. However, I can attach to the wall which is a standard stud wall. Do you know of a way to build a wall without permanently attaching a plate to the concrete floor?
Years ago I had an old carpenter show me a similar method. Do everything the same as shown drilling with a quarter inch masonry bit but instead of using that expensive anchor take two 16 penny box(must be 16d box not common) nails. Drive both nails into the hole together at the same time and good luck getting either the plate or nails out. I am sure these anchors are not cheap but I know what two 16d box nails cost. About zip. This will only work in a poured concrete floor not block!
Sole plate,wall plate,bottom plate,base plate,Whatever its called it still needs to be anchored,attached,fixed,connected to the floor.Thanks for watching+++Bob
Do big-box home centers like Lowes or Home Depot carry that type of fastener? Or do I need to find an industrial fastener supplier, like many contractors probably use?
HomeRemodelWorkshop Wrote: ... powder actuated concrete nail-gun ... a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold ... tendency to split small plates ... difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications ... * * * * * * * * * Thanks for that info. We were considering using a powder-actuated tool to attach the sole plates of our new walls to the concrete floor. It does look like the easiest method, but if it's not a good one, we don't want to go that route.
Thanks Bob....you saved me some heartache... getting ready to frame basement and your videos have helped already. Keep up the good work
Thanks Bob. I got to install a small wall in my warehouse for target practice with my Compound Bow. Your the man.... Keep up the good work.
Bob Schmidt, you are the king of easy to follow and helpful videos. Best construction tips on youtube. Thanks buddy.
best diy videos on the net you have. Aesome details and advice. A true contractor.
I love the video and you showed all of us who have never done this before how to do it properly. There will be times when I will have to do just that when working with walls.
This is great! I have been wanting to remodel my basement, but my family recommended that we pay a professional to do it to "make sure it gets done right." But these videos are making me reconsider... I may do this myself! Thanks!
Great stuff Bob! I really appreciate the tips and information you have put up. Big thumbs up!
I have used tapcons, redheads, drive pins, remshot nails and cut nails in the past. I ordered some of these online and am setting a bunch of walls on concrete. They work great, a lot easier than redheads and they will not strip out and break like tapcons. And they will not loosen up like the remshot nails when bumped. Thanks for the channel with all these great tips.
All you video clips are excellent! Thank you
you're the man ! Thanks, MR.G
Thanks Bob,
I used Tap Con Screws. I appreciate your responses.
Thanks for the great video. Now I know how to anchor my base plate to my basement floor.
Wow......thanks for this EXCELLENT tip!
Happy to hear you like them+++Bob
Cheers for the vid it was very helpful
Very interesting fasteners... I haven't seen them before. I will be looking for them and giving them a go.Thanks
Right on! Great demonstration!
You're a life saver!
Superb video. Good attitude. Easily explained.
excellent, straight forward demo of what looks like a really useful product. think I'll skip the screws and go with these anchors instead. again, thanks.
outstanding bob, did'nt know bout the concrete nails, was gonna use masonry screws on home project. thanks
@militarysims I have always left air space between old rock walls and new wood wall framing. There is a possibility of creating leaks if you mess with old stone. The outside of building is particularly important to not disturb. The compacted earth is the best defense against leaks+++Bob
Good stuff Bob.
I love your vids !
Excellent Bob... thanks for all the great, straight forward vid's /info... please keep up the great work!!!!
that was a great vid!! i learned a lot!
WHOAAAA! A treated plate is recommended for use on bottom plates. If there is not a water issue in basement then removing bottom plates would be OVERKILL. An old phrase comes to mind"If it aint broke don't fix it" When doing any new or repair work then treated.The only way I would tear out existing structure is if there was a safety issue,I cannot believe this fits that criteria, yes mold only if water condition exist, and then I would only fix water issue and replace affected wood only+++Bob
Another great tip. Those things definately hold better than ramsets. Ramsets blow out half the time.
Excellent tips, thank you
Great video! Seems like a good alternative to a powder actuated fastener.
This felt like woodshop. well taught
very simple show of how it done.thanks.
Using a ramset fastener will work but I have noticed you get blowouts where the nail does not seed into concrete.Consistent results sometimes better than speed.When putting in small plates a ramset can sometimes split the plate while nailing.===Bob. I did not say this was the only way to do it but I believe it to be the best,most consistent way of doing it.
They will but my personal preference is to make back support legs and anchor on the ceiling in an unfinished area +++Bob
Lol,You are right, My bits were on a job and I used an old spade bit to make vid! Nothing gets past anybody! Thanks for watching+++Bob
Bob great video. I was planing on building some pour in place concrete walls. Is this method good to use on the base plate of the forms? Ie base plate to hold bottom of form nailed into the footing or do you recommend a different method to hold the bottom of the forms? Im just concerned over the removal work after I remove the forms. Thanks
great tip man, thanks.
Thanks - I'm building a sandbox for the kids and I'm attaching it to our concrete patio in the back. Dug out all the dirt around the concrete and din't know how to go about attaching the wood nicely to the concrete. Much obliged!
I just tried using a ramset w/ the highest strength shots available for the model I was using (HD2022 I believe) and it didn't drive the nails in far enough... so now I've got an un-anchored plate and holes in the concrete. I plan to use your method now bob, but my question is - do I need to worry about patching the holes under the plate now before drilling and anchoring w/ the split drives?
Love your videos - thanks.
Thanks a mill...I also heard u can drive 2 16 penyt sinkers at the same time for a solid anchor...
great video
If its against your lease to drill Tap-Cons into floor (they are removeable) I would put some silicone under it. We use it to keep granite countertops from sliding around and should work, Good luck +++Bob
I generally leave 5-6 inches away and have "No problem mon" +++Bob
@MetalheadzVal For this particular pin it is 1/4 inch. I have used similar pins that required 3/16 bit +++Bob
Hello what's the best way to build 2 exterior walls in existing concrete garage door to convert it into a living space. I live In FL, does the bottom half need to be in concrete or should I use treated woods?
Nice video :) guess you could counter sink a washer around that split drive for even more holding power (thinking of hurricane areas)
Thank you very much+++Bob
Nice, thank you
Thanks I really appreciate that +++ BOB
Thanks for a great video, Bob. I have a question: how close can you use these to the edge of a 5 inch slab? (3000 psi concrete)
NIce vid thanks a lot!
Thanks Cameron===Bob
Mainly just a partition, I may use some pegboard on one side to hang some wrenches and other small hand tools. These walls are just to break up the space to but stuff behind and out of site in my new woodshop.
Hey BOB You can speed up the process by drilling the hole in the treated floor plate with the 1/4 inch roto hammer bit saving one step. Drill in 3/4inch over depth and roget cleaning the debris away. Also why buy a split drive fastener when 2 -16d green vinyl sinkers are cheaper and you already have some in your tool bags? Great video.
Glad to hear you liked it!+++Bob
True ,I have had the same problem myself!===Bob
good video!
Will do!+++Bob
thank you
A carbide tip with hammer drill action holds up pretty well in concrete,that being said water would probably increase bit life but not enough to justify the mess.===Bob
Thanks I will try.===Bob
Can these be used for sill plates for framed walls for garage on concrete slab on grade?
If you have a grinder and extension cord in and available the yes definitely ! +++Bob
Are you planning on putting anything on wall?
Wall cabs, shelving, or is it just a partition?
@Omnimeister And a dull drill bit , alot of back-up stuff used on this video. lol hey it still worked . +++Bob
Try a Senco air driven framing nailer with hardened nails. Bang Bang Bang you're done. Holds like an SOB in concrete. After you're done anchoring the pressure treated plate to the concrete, use it to build your walls. Makes the job almost fun.
Greetings milgravis from the states to Canada!===Thanks for watching. Bob
@usmc8542 It has been my experience that even if you find the proper powdered shot the plates sometimes tend to split or the nail does not penetrate and hold properly. That being said, using the proper eye and ear protection and if it works well for you it is definitely less expensive. +++Bob
Generally speaking you keep flush and adjust stud length, however if floor is dramatically out of level some floor leveling may be required if its bad enough to justify and that is a judgement call on your part. +++Bob
@mikecoscia Sometimes its difficult to figure the correct load size to use and ,depending on concrete make-up,have a tendacy to split plates and blow-out concrete. I have had more consistent results with the split drives +++Bob
You said one every two feet. If you're doing a very short, non load bearing wall (say 18 inches), should you just put one in, or is it better to add a second one?
@Christianprepper1 Well said and thanks for watching!+++Bob
Greetings from Ireland. I assume its the same procedure if you want to put those battons ona concrete wall to use as supports for shelving?
The only difference I have with your system is the add an 1/8 th part. The floor system is already supported by the existing structure. If you lift and put upward pressure on the floor above, depending on floor coverings, you can crack tiles, lift existing walls causing cracks and improper door closings, cause floor squeeks that did not happen before. When measuring my studs to fit between top and bottom plate I make my measurements slightly light.
Good stuff, Bob.. however I have learned that when dealing with basement applications, you have to worry about all sorts of moisture issues. One being wood over concrete. So what is the solution? My case is, I have a floor to remove while walls remain. I'd have about 3" space from concrete to wall. So do I use a vapor barrier? if so, how to apply, can I screw wood over it? and whats first barrier or 2x4? Also, it looks rotted under there now, so can I use pressure treated wood? I need help man.
@rmcdaniel423 There is a similar type that looks like a fluted galvanized 16 penny nail that also works very well that they sell at my local Home Depot.+++Bob I believe the drilling size is 3/16 instead of 1/4
@TheSaxyjaz Unless the concrete blow-out was deep then no. Move the new anchor a few inches away and install.+++Bob
Although the hammer drill with the carbide tip will drill through plate and into concrete it struggles with the wood part of the drilling+++Bob
I am about to add a wall snide my detach garage that is finished. Was wondering if this is a base plate and you add a wall on top of what you did here. Also I have 9 foot ceilings with sheet rock and was wondering what the stud lengths should be since I will be placing a complete wall on top of what you showed here?
@trailblazer2985 You could add top plate to ceiling then get 10 ft. studs and cut them individually to fit between plates. Most garage floors have slope to them to allow water to run out of garage or to a floor drain making a standard size stud not viable. +++Bob
If it were open already and not weight bearing I would cut out and replace plate,but as I said I would not open anything that did'nt have to be opened just to replace plates+++Bob
I am assuming you are talking about a ramset or some other type of powder actuated concrete nail-gun. It has been my experience that they have a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold.They also have more of a tendency to split small plates and lastly it can be difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications==Hope this helped+++Bob
Lol, It was a crappy bit but as an excuse the bits and drill I use on a daily basis were on a job and I decided to make the video that day with what I had available as far as drills and bits. Hope it did not take too much away from the spirit of the video. +++Bob
is that up to code? when i built my garage i was told by the inspector to use only anchor bolts.
i also added a three inch metal washer to each anchor bolt.
@halleysmommy A good connection between top and bottom of wall is critical to keeping wall stable. As far as the holes in floor, unless you have a serious water pressure problem comming from below is generally not an issue.+++Bob P.S Never be embarassed to ask questions!
Bob, I have just rented warehouse space. I need to build a few temporary walls and am not allowed to drill into the concrete floor. However, I can attach to the wall which is a standard stud wall. Do you know of a way to build a wall without permanently attaching a plate to the concrete floor?
I would love to share tips and techniques! Thats the idea of posting these videos! If you have some neat tips that a newbie can use do tell.+++Bob
Also, what diameter are you using?
Years ago I had an old carpenter show me a similar method. Do everything the same as shown drilling with a quarter inch masonry bit but instead of using that expensive anchor take two 16 penny box(must be 16d box not common) nails. Drive both nails into the hole together at the same time and good luck getting either the plate or nails out. I am sure these anchors are not cheap but I know what two 16d box nails cost. About zip. This will only work in a poured concrete floor not block!
@HomeRemodelWorkshop What about Ramsets? Aren't they even faster to use?
how do you correct a floor that is not level? or do you keep it flush and adjust stud lenght?
How thoroughly do you have to remove leftover mortar from tile removal before laying down your anchor wood?
...Pt2 So I intend to replace the whole floor, starting with the concrete and work my way up to the bottom of the wall (new treated bottom plate).
Nothing like a nice sandbox, now how to keep the neighbors cats out of it! +_++Bob
Sole plate,wall plate,bottom plate,base plate,Whatever its called it still needs to be anchored,attached,fixed,connected to the floor.Thanks for watching+++Bob
Do big-box home centers like Lowes or Home Depot carry that type of fastener? Or do I need to find an industrial fastener supplier, like many contractors probably use?
@exeller8007 And some people feel the same way about Tap-con screws, both ways are fine just showing an alternative. +++Bob
@mikeissocool19 Thanks Mike, What's it like being so cool? Just kiddin Thanks for watching! Go to work tomorrow and teach them something LOL +++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop Wrote:
... powder actuated concrete nail-gun ... a tendency to blow concrete out and not hold ... tendency to split small plates ... difficult to determine which size load to use for differing applications ...
* * * * * * * * *
Thanks for that info.
We were considering using a powder-actuated tool to attach the sole plates of our new walls to the concrete floor.
It does look like the easiest method, but if it's not a good one, we don't want to go that route.
Does your concrete bit have a chance of over heating like when you drill into tile?