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I am a complete dummy, when it comes to stuff like this .. but you've explained this so well that I believe that I can put one together... I have bought everything I need, now we just have to see if I am good enough at following your instructions to actually put it together and make it work .. I will let you know how it came out when I am done.. I went ahead and bought the hundred amp breaker that you suggested , rather than just a fuse. and I also bought a switch setup that was already wired so I can have a switch to turn everything on. I'm putting a blinking light on mine ... and I've got an actuator that I'm using because I am mounting a plow to mine. The actuator will lift the plow up and down.. so I can plow my driveway with it . since my neighbor won't do his job like he's supposed to... I'm in a wheelchair so this project is going to be great for me... I'll let you know how she comes out.. but I just wanted to thank you for responding to all my dumb emails that I have sent to you .... most people would not have responded after the third or fourth one . but you have sent me to the right place each time . and done a damn good job of helping me out. so well that I believe I can actually make this project go over and work ... even though I'm a dummy when it comes to things like this.... once again thanks a lot.
I have to agree, this is a great video. Have been looking for a simplified layout like this. Most likely won’t be using this info for a push mower, but some other RC unit on a farm or something. Thank you for the information!
It is sitting in my living room wheels/motors mounted. I'm tired. 2 days of drilling/re-drilling. Getting things lined up as best as can be. What an accomplishment.
What an accomplishment! You mentioned drilling/redrilling… I was attempting to replace the latch mechanism on my pickup gate, and finally did it on “Mark III”. I remarked to my wife and daughter that one section of the ladder resembles Swiss Cheese!
Excellent explanation. I fly RC so I was familiar with most of what you used, but I think it was so clear that even non RC people could get what is going on. Thanks
Great video! It answers so many little questions people post in RC mower videos. The highlighting of the included safety features is such a bonus. Using a step down for the receiver and an emergency cut off is something I've not seen in anyone else's build. Thank you for this update.
Without a doubt the BEST video I have seen on wiring an R/C mower. I've put together a collection of nearly 100 videos on R/C mowers and snowblowers and yours is my go-to for wiring. I'm finishing up a R/C snowblower and will be using your throttle servo arrangement as the basis for a chute rotator. Being anle to rotate the chute and adding an old cell phone to wi-fi the view of where I'm going will be a big improvement over last year. I hope to be able to blow snow from INSIDE the house this year. You two put together a fantastic video. Great job and thank you!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB hi my name is jodie and I would like to know what size wire I need and what kind of control driver also, plus where do I need to set the fix switch at just for the motors
Great job. Rather than a mower I built a robot that is used to get or water plants in large in basement "greenhouse". Your suggestion of using a 12V to 5V is converter is SUPER important. I made a wiring mistake on my first attempt that created a short on the 12V side but the failed part also shorted the 5V side which was powered by the drive only. This took out the drive as well, an expensive mistake. You confirmed my suspicion about the need for a separate 5V supply. Take care. Best of luck to you.
Great creation and inspiring! The machine is a fantastically creative solution!I wish everyone a successful, beautiful day and weekend in strength and health!
Thank you both for this wonderful project! It is inspiring and interesting. Looking forward to more upgrade to include camera and control the mower via 4g cellphone network and GPS.:)
AWESOME. I don't really plan building RC Mower, but this might be inspiration for some other RC vehicles. Everything in the setup is logical and exactly the same as i would do it. That fail-safe mechanism was extra bonus that i would probably miss if i was building mine.
Congratulations for your time, video, advices, updates, knowledges and detailed information for us for free. You inspire me and I think, everyone. Greetings from a mexican, THANK YOU, BRAVO, BRAVÍSIMO and God bless you.
Im in the process of building mine now. I got the wheels an front casters on. Just gotta get batteries, controller, fuse an wireing yet. This gonna be sweet. Thanks for the video
Thanks to both of You ! You two are awesome and I am sure most will appreciate your simple and down to earth expanation of everything from the build to the wiring.. Thanks again
Could not figure out why my R/C mower would gain a mind of its own and need to be shut down for a minute when I changed direction quickly/often until I watched your video. Just ordered a step down converter to stop the fly back voltage from messing with my receiver. Thank you for your great video and information. Wish me luck.
Good luck! Since we made these videos, we've had the same issue happen a few times too. Since they are cheap, we just go ahead and replace the remote receiver and also replace the receiver leads with new leads and fresh solder on any bare copper that goes into screw terminals. We just like to make SURE that we do not have any intermittent signal loss between the receiver, step-down converter, and motor driver. It's cheap and easy to do just to give a little piece of mind ESPECIALLY if it's been acting up.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB do you really need to replace the receiver? Mine is still working fine after I turn it back on. I have done a little (very little so far) reading on special flyback current diodes. They still make me a little confused but I think that diodes would be the way to go. They would allow electricity to only be able to flow in one direction and stop the flyback current. Also, I think a person can program their remote to soften the braking for each motor. This should stop the flyback because it wouldn't be a sudden stop of input voltage. I will try to keep you informed. Thank you again!!
@@MrDozer120 It’s not a MUST REPLACE, but for us it’s a good idea and it’s fairly inexpensive and easy for the peace of mind. The diode is a good safety too.
Had built one around 5 years ago it seem to have become very popular bow im guessing beacuse the pandemic and others having time on there hands. I love seeing others build and things i might be able to add to mine. Great step by step 👍
This is really great. Thanks for the instructions and parts list. I hope to replicate your success. Best of luck with your future feats of home engineering!
Just dropping a note. I have 90% done. Just working out some safety/wireing. I tested a ford SW-3 starter solinoid. Have it working that one switch turns on the motor controler and a amber strobe light. When i contect the remote cut off relay I'll be able to see if power is off or still on. I have a servo on throttle/ground to kill the engine as a fail safe.
Hey guys great video very informative they actually sell a little spring that goes to your remote control where you take them back off and it hooks on to it so that way it turns it into a self-centering joystick which is what you need
For the camera the First Person View (FPV) and VR googles used with rc planes would be perfect. A better but way more complicated would be a 360 deg action camera again with VR goggles and realtime streaming with sensors so that when you turn your head you can see in that direction just as if you were walking behind the mower. This would be best if operating remotely so you could be aware of any safety concerns and take appropriate actions. You might even add a two way voice communication system so you could talk to those who are curious or warn off those who might want the mower for themselves. Thus could become a nice business. Several mowers with operators in a van with AC. Next see what you can do to serup a rc weedeater/edger and a leaf blower
Hi guys, love the video and its helped me understand how things work. I realize this video is over 2 years old now and you have probably already changed what I am about to tell you but if not it might be something to look at. I noticed in the video that your red power wire coming out of your motor driver to power the voltage step down regulator may be pinched under the heat sink of the motor driver. Would hate to see that short out. Hoping to make a remote controlled lawn mower soon. Gathering parts already 🙂 Cheers, Dan Oliver
Good eye.. Thanks for the heads up! We have had issues with that. We added fork-type wire connectors for the end of all of the wires and rerouted them a bit to keep them from getting pinched or rubbed.
Thank you for the detailed videos of your build. I would really like to know how the servo has been working out for your cut-off / fail safe switch. Has it been reliable during use? Have you had any issues with too much heat or vibration causing any problems while operating? I was also wondering when you changed the spring tension to a lighter spring, did it effect the lawnmower shutting down any differently due to the change on the friction brake in the engine? Instead of a servo, I was going to use a 12v power window motor/cable to overcome the spring tension on the lever but your solution seems so much less complicated. Sorry for all the questions, but I really like the way you solved some of the many problems faced when building an rc mower.
We have had some problems with the servo screw stripping out or unscrewing itself and the metal wire that pushes the lever bending. We have had to replace the servo a couple of times.. but they are cheap and it's still working fine. The engine shutoff is slower, so it takes 6 seconds to stop when you hit the switch instead of 2, but that's fine. If we did it again, I would probably do what you're thinking of by using a dedicated motor like a wiper motor, but the servo is a decent "budget" solution. Good luck, and let us know how your build goes!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thanks for your reply, that's exactly what I needed to hear. Since you say you have had some troubles and I already have this 12v window motor, I'm going to see how it works instead of buying a servo. I will let you know how it turns out.
You could bolt an extra pulley on top of the mower then mount an alternator to the side with a charge controller you could also hook up an electric start off of a snowblower and use a dc to ac converter to power it mower would always have power as long as it has gas
Not sure if u still use this but I’ve been building and using mine over 10 yrs. U have to make a steel frame for it because the toque from the motors will break the mower frame, your wiring is way more complicated than it have to, without a proper enclosure you will spend money to replace all that in couple years, u need different wheels to get any traction, the battery is way too small, u need 24v. I haven’t done this but u should go with battery operated mower to make it easy starting. I personally use mowers with a starter so I can turn the mower on and off remotely. this is an on going thing where u have to constant fixing , replacing, upgrading. I’m not even disabled but I find it’s a PIA because something always goes wrong and it’s a pia to work on and it’s take up a lot of surface space in the shed
Thanks for the tips! We have been using it since this video came out. We’ve learned a lot from it and have made some improvements (like changing the front wheels and redoing some of the electrical connections). Everything is still working fine so far, but yes… there are definitely things we could have done better. Our next build will probably be an all electric version with brushless motors. Using what we learned from this build should help it be even better next time.
I finally got my build outside and running. However, I don't have the arm to get the engine started. Many different routes. Add electric start or get an electric mower. If there is a patron saint for remote control he is sure making me work.
You can try what we did: Remove the pull starter completely (we just had to drill out the rivets) and use a power drill to start the engine. There are other, better solutions in these comments too, but that works for us!
Amazing work! I'm actually going to attempt something similar but with a larger (54"!) mower deck from a riding lawn mower. I'm hoping I can find a DC 24v motor that will be able to run the deck, but I'm thinking a vertical shaft Predator engine from harbor freight might have to suffice. Thank you for the videos and knowledge!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Quick question! I also purchased the Flysky FS-I6X and I wonder, is there a way to stop the annoying 'inactivity' alarm? Seems to start beeping after not moving any controls on it for a few minutes.
I’m sorry... I thought I responded to this. The dc converter battery input is a direct connection to the battery, connected to the battery lines where the battery input for the Sabertooth is connected. The voltage sensor is connected to those same lines so it’s basically still connected directly to the battery. The output of that sensor is plugged in the the “sens” port on the remote receiver. Then, on the transmitter, you can turn on that sensor (Named ExtV2 in the System -> RX setup -> select sensors menu) so it displays the voltage on the main screen of the transmitter.
Hi to you both, Totally enjoy the video. I would like to know where you get your motor driver from?Ive started my build from an old mower i had laying around and just bought a controller. The motor driver like yours ive found runs around 280.00. Is there another one i can use? Also do you have a video on how to setup the controller mine is a flysky i6x? Thanks Vinney
The shipping shortages are making the Sabertooth motor drivers hard to get! You can also use the Cytron motor driver, amzn.to/3IJVP66. We used one for a couple of months, but you will need to come up with a better way to affix the heat spreader. It comes just stuck on with a sticky pad, and after a couple of uses in a hot and dusty environment, it will come off and then the electronics will overheat. We tested it and it worked fine at first, but ultimately switched back to the Sabertooth when that happened to us. As for setup on the controller, you don't NEED to do anything. It works fine right out of the box. The only change we have really made is to the "dual/exp" setting of channel 1 to make the steering more of an exponential curve rather than a linear line, which helps steering control when you're trying to turn just a little in one direction or the other. Any other changes for servos would be based on your particular setup and preferences.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thanks for the fast response. I think i am going to try the one you suggested and add a cooling fan to the top of it. The reason i asked about the transmitter was this is the first time I've ever messed with one.
I love what you two did with the push mower!!!!-and as a small engine shade tree repairman, and prior lawn service (extremely small business)owner ! wondered if you knew of other options available to add to your systems like a starter and alternator or battery charging system -to keep the servos fully charged while its running,and if you did ,why didn't you use or add them? the reason i ask is the addition would make these systems much more user friendly with a remote start and you wouldn't have to charge the batteries after mowing.I'm no way disrespecting this build, I love it!!! and hope to build one myself in the future for a personal use as I'm getting old and have a heart condition ....Not interested in pushing a mower or walking in the heat again -ever....lolololol
Thanks for the comment! Honestly, we don’t really know much about small engines or options for a mower engine like this. We’ve gotten a lot of suggestions about adding a starter or alternator since we built this. For the next build we’re probably going to go all electric for those reasons. As for our yard, the one battery is plenty, but we can imagine if our yard was much bigger or on a hill or something we would definitely need some more like what you’re talking about.
Great right up like the step down converter going to put into my build the signal wires going to motor driver you deleted the black and red from the pig tail correct and it picks up power just from the step down connection thanks again from another wheelchair user
Hey guys, Once again - Great Build. I have everything in place and ready to be connected based on your recommendation of parts. I need one last piece of advice. I am actually using the same transmitter and receiver that you are. That being said I feel like this is a differential thrust type setup similar to that for a RC plane. Can you give me a little guidance on how you set your channel 1 and channel 2 to work the way that they do? I know there is channel mixing that needs to be done in order to accomplish this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The motor driver handles that. Make sure you've gone through your settings for your DIP switches for the motor driver and then just hook up channels 1 and 2 and it should just work. No additional setup should be required.
Okay. I think I've worked out the transmitter. Next question. What size battery are you using. It's 12v but how many amp hours and how long does it run for? I am experimenting with lipo cell batteries as I have them for other toys, but I think they will be insufficient for run time as they are 1300mah translating to 1.3ah :(
22AH battery and it runs for 20-30 minutes on a relatively level terrain. He tried a 5AH LiPo battery and he got less than 10 minutes of run time on it (that's now his backup battery)
Waiting now on your camera addition to this unit - really curious how to hook that up and what type of camera to get for it and should it be controlled through rasb-pi or wifi camera unit that links to a smart phone that is positioned on the top of your controller. Also had the idea of adding a 3rd servo and building a side deck to attach a 20v dewalt weedeater for trimming the sides of fences and house. Also thought about adding a small tow hitch to the back of the unit for pulling an airator and fert and seed spredder. Just thoughts right now, but really would like your input as well on these thoughts. Not wheel chair user but challenged as well and striving forward. The thought of being able to stay inside in the AC and get the job done is appealing. Anyway camera addition for being able to see where it is going is cool. Also if adding a 3rd servo will the remote have a channel available?
We've been considering getting the DJI digital camera kit for clarity and immediate response whereas a lot of wifi cameras have a lot of delay, which would be too risky. The biggest hurdle we are still trying to figure out is how we would control it so we could look behind as well as in front and on the sides for the same reasons. As for the extra servos, there are 10-channel receivers that you can get for the transmitter we used, so you have plenty of extra channels.
We can’t think of any reason that it would work when it’s on 2 batteries and not on just 1. We suspect you may have something else other than just the remote and receiver messed up. Email us some pictures of it hooked up both ways and we can see if we see anything obvious. Sometimes you just need a “fresh eye” to look at something. You can send it the pictures to MeantToBeLindseyB@hotmail.com
You can use the DIP switch wizard to help figure it out for each setup. Based on OUR exact configuration, with independent steering and exponential acceleration, we have 2, 3, and 6 ON the rest OFF. www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/SabertoothDIPWizard/start.htm
Not a cheap hobby. I have $1600 in this build. I only have 1 good leg so I wanted to be able to sit in my house and mow on my big screen TV, so I put a $700 Hollyland Mars, and GoPro camera system on mine. I went with a brand new Troy-Bilt mower. The back of a Troy-Bilt rear bagger mower is all plastic so I had to make steel trailing arms for it, like a Ford truck. I kept the rear open so it has a rear grass chute instead of a side chute. It worked out great. Wish I could post pictures for you. Thanks for all your videos. When I get it all finished I'll post a Facebook link to a video for you.
Holy cow! That's awesome. You'll have to send us some pics! You can email us at MeantToBeLindseyB@hotmail.com or tag @Meant To Be Lindsey B on Facebook when you're finished. It's definitely not cheap but when you're paying someone else to mow your lawn, it definitely pays for itself in the long run. Of course, we did start with a free mower, so that helped with our initial costs too. Just the sense of independence it has given both of us has been worth it though.
Love the design and thank you for sharing such detailed info. I used your links on Amazon and buying the same things. Even bought the same M300 motor and gearbox on eBay. I see you wired up the motors with the pos/neg cables but what is the 3rd wire used for? The light maybe? Did you hook it up? Thanks!
That’s the wheel lock. You have to power it with 24v to release the lock. We just removed it from our motors. It’s worth doing because it makes the build simpler and it’s just a few screws right on top of the motors.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Many Thanks 😊. I will remove it too. Still waiting on items to come in but can't wait. Wish I could send you guys pics of my build.
Possible upgrade: Some mowers are available with 'push-button' starting (with automatic choke). I don't know if you've got any RC channels left but, if you have, you could then start the mower remotely and sell your drill. The fail-safe was a very good idea.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Just bought my Kobalt 80V for this project. There is a push button to start and a bar that has to be held down while mowing. Any tips?
@@dr.psprojects9591 The bar that has to be held down he replaced with his "killswitch servo" and for the push button start... That's great! You should be able to reach down to push the button to start the mower. He personally probably wouldn't try to add that start to the remote or anything like that but if you NEED to, you could probably look into an electronic relay to trigger the start but it would require taking it apart and looking at the electronics to know what would be best.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I had a royobi 40volt cordless mower and consider doing that. You will have to build a frame due to the plastic might break. You won't need to use the hold down. I found a magnetic switch in the notch for the mulcher/bag grove. Just taped a steel driver (phlips) or cut a steel rod or bolt, aaargghh into the far right of the slot.
Thanks for your videos. I got mine working today. I had to pair the receiver and transmitter, you didn't tell us about that. lol. I had to Google it, but it was easy. My only question now is how to use the fail safe. I cannot get it to work on my servo that controls the engine shut-off. I have it on channel 6 of the receiver. Same exact flysky receiver as yours. Help please.
Most receivers and transmitters come pre-bound, so our apologies for not elaborating more on that. As for the fail safe: In the fail safe settings, make sure that the channel 6 is “on” and that the switch for the kill switch is set to the “off” position when you save the setting. Hope this helps!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I bought a 10 channel transmitter so I could use all the other buttons on my remote receiver. I still cannot use them because I don't know how to set it up yet..... I want the engine kill switch on the toggle switch. I'll figure it out. And I've tried setting the failsafe a dozen times now. It saves my settings, but it doesn't do anything.
Sorry it has taken a few days to get back to you. Hope this helps! To get your servos working with your remote this is what you have to do on the remote: Go to Settings->System->Aux Switches Then turn on whichever switches you want to be able to use for controls (SwD is the far right switch that I used, so turn it on) and set the Ch # to the number of channels that your receiver has, mine has 10, but yours might be 6 To save you have to hold "cancel" for 2 seconds. Then, go back to settings->setup->auxchannels and go to the channel number you want to output to, and then tell it which switch to use on that channel (SwD in my case) hold save to cancel your switch should now control a servo plugged into that channel with no problems. THEN To set the failsafe, go to settings -> system -> RX Setup -> failsafe -> channel # -> set to ON and flip the switch that it should switch to when failure happens. Hold cancel to save.
I enjoyed the video. I want to make it too, but I'm worried about the battery. To do a 25V 250W motor, use the CYTRON MDDS30 motor drive. Please give me some advice.
Quick and maybe dumb question.. what would've happened if you wouldn't have put the servo on the throttle? would the blades have just remained at one speed? Also, more or less how much did you spend on all the parts and electronics? Thanks for all the explanations!! Great videos, y'all killed it!! Looking forward to do this project:)
It would be fine without the servo for the throttle. The blades motor would just remain at whatever speed you set it at, but there are times when I want to speed it up (bushes and weeds and leaves in the back yard) or slow it down (easy cut in the front, no need for all the noise and waste of gas). Depending on your particular mower, you may be able to leave off the servo and adjust it by hand as needed. Mine was too loose for that, so I had to do something. It wasn't much more work to add the servo so I figured I might as well do it the best way right off the bat. Another thing to keep in mind is that slider piece, at least on mine, is right on the corner and likes to get hit with a lot of branches from bushes and stuff, if it gets pushed to the slowest position, the blades motor will probably stop and then you'll have to start it again and reset that throttle. The price of my particular build was about $500 + the mower.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB $500? You got off pretty easy. Motors go for $124 each on EBAY. (Left and Right Permoble M300) 2 wheels are about $100. Make sure the motors have wheel hubs or that could add another $50. The controller is another $100 unless you are lucky enough to find the smaller version. If you have someone willing to give you a free mower, used snappers like the one they use can be $150 - $200. I've got a GRAND worth of parts on the work bench now.
The inline crimps finally showed up. So been playing with the mess. The link you gave for black/Red wire is for 10 gauge. Its too big for the yellow connectors. The wire needs to be most likely 12 gauge. I was able to solder wires end to end and then cover with heat shrink. This is not the strongest wire connection but it works for now. I was also able to wire up the battery and one motor to the Saber and got a green light. Things are finally moving forward.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Im at the point where I want to install the receiver. I understand the channel one and channel 2. Which wires on the jumper cable do I put in which port on the saber?
Rewatched the video and have a better idea. Will tackle in the morning. On a down note, the Snapper mower I bought on EBAY fell through. The seller kept changing stories on shipping so I canceled. I may just buy a battery mower and destroy the snapper gas mower I have. I thought I could do this in an afternoon but when things don't go as planned i have to be able to work around.
almost got mine completed just need to find out what size to use for the front wheels. i have a set of 4 inch swivel wheels with ball bearings but im thinking that they are going to be too small i may have to go to a 6 inch wheel. do you have an idea what are on the electric wheel chair? Thanks
The bigger the better for going over bumps and onto sidewalks and stuff. The downside of going bigger is they have to stick out further from the body to be able to turn all the away around. The trick is to get the biggest ones you can without it being so far away from the body that you can't get the mower up to the very edges of things. We wound up going with a 5 inch swivel set for ours and it seems to work OK except for one spot where the sidewalk is really high compared to the grass.
I a confused on how you wire the receiver. I understand that you use different channels for different things but where do they go exactly to which ports and also the other end... where do you connect them to? thank you for your responses.
It varies on your exact setup, but we have power in (red and black) from the step down converter to the VCC port of the receiver. Then we have just the white wire from channel 1 from the receiver to S1 port on the motor driver and just the white wire from channel 2 from the receiver to S2 port on the motor driver. Channels 1 and 2 are the controls of the right stick of the remote transmitter. Then we have 2 servos. The servos use all 3 wires (red black and white) plugged into channels 5 and 6 of the receiver. We then went into the remote setting to set channels 5 and 6 to the dial and switch from the remote to control the kill switch and throttle on the mower. You can reference your manual for exactly how to set those settings.
After playing with the motor for an hour and a half, I found there is a switch on the side that I can flip to release the brake. The brake needs to be released to get a free moving wheel. Despite this "Duh" moment, when the other motor arrives I can test to see if this be the case. The motor that I have was tested but did not turn which is when I found out (or so I thought) that the brake needs to be removed. Also the wire clips I have nearly burned up because the wire is so thin but I know they are not rated for 12v. I must be doing something right the house hasn't burned down....yet.
Seems Amazon not carrying battle switchs. I have the servo connected to the throttle/engine kill. Thats great the engine will shut down as a fail safe but I would like the power to the controler also. I have a rc on/off relay and looking to use a 40amp auto 12v relay to cut power. You could use a y connect to control two servos or relays from one channel. My mower is 70% done.
1:54 What do you use the dipswitches for? I hope you can find a way to keep the circuitry from being messed up. I assume you know what they say about an ounce of prevention. :-)
Update: just took the mower out today for a test. Looks like I found a relay for power is working for now. Used a 30amp fuse for testing and everything stayed pretty cool didn't get hot. I'll edit a video and upload for some feed back.
I have two vids up now. I'll post the remote relay for power and engine kill. You guy's rock. Gave me the inspiration to build one. Now to figure out new projects for the extra mortors I have..
First of all, awesome awesome video. Thank you for the effort you've put in explaining all this. I have a question about the two signal wires from the remote receiver to the sabertooth module. I see that you're not powering the remote receiver from the sabertooth module, but why is there no ground wire connected from the remote receiver to the sabertooth module?
The power and ground for the remote receiver are both coming from the power inverter. Since the inverter and the motor driver both use the same ground too we didn’t need to run a ground from the remote receiver to the motor driver. You totally could do both and having a secondary ground is a good idea.
Do you know the range capability of the system? I looking at making a machine that travels on a farm that won’t be in direct sight. Maybe to mow an electric fence line at first.
From the information I could find online about the particular transmitter and receiver we used, it looks like the range is about 1,000 meters (or a little over 1/2 a mile) but maybe slightly less since the mower is on the ground and this transmitter and receiver is used for airplanes in the sky.
There are two terminals. One in and one out. You should should run your positive lead from the battery into the in terminal of the circuit breaker and then another wire from the out terminal of the circuit breaker into the positive terminal of the motor driver.
I have a lawn mower (two 350w motors) controlled by a sabertooth 2x25 and a flysky i6ab. All fonctionned. I had to change the wheel transmission, so I had to dismantel the electronics. Now, all remounted at the original position, when I turn on the circuit, one wheel start spinning alone. (turning on the flysky, it cannot drives. I am not a specialist). I succesfully rebinded, but the wheel start again. On the flysky display appear a third line: SIGS1:10. What does it mean? (i suggest somethings about velocity of motor 1). What can i do? Thanks
It's hard to know from your description. If everything worked correctly before, it seems like it's a wiring issue. If it never worked correctly to begin with, it would could be a settings issue or a wiring issue. We would check the DIP switches on the motor driver using the manual to set them for your current setup. Then I would unplug everything and reconnect it one connection at a time, ensuring that the signal wires from the remote receiver are connected to the correct input ports in the motor driver (channel 1 to 1 and channel 2 to 2). Ensure there are no frayed or loose wires and all the wires are plugged in correctly ESPECIALLY on the remote receiver where it is very easy to plug in the wires upside down or in the wrong channel. Rebind the remote receiver and reset the setting on it if anything has changed. Let us know if you need more help!
The wheels we have can do up and down hills pretty well. It does struggle going sideways along a hill. Better traction tires would work better. Or you could even get solid tires and put screws in the tires. You could also make it like a track system like you mentioned, but that’s a LOT more work IMO.
Thank you for doing this series. I watched the three parts yesterday then stopped for the day, thinking I had seen at some point all the parts laid out and a single link for a kit that included everything. When I came back today, I can no longer find that part of the video nor that simplfied link. does such a link exist and what's the location/timestamp for it?
We don't use a kit in the videos but all of the parts we have used are listed in all of the video descriptions. This video has the most recent list of parts.
Doing 2 projects that are similar to yours. I got a riding lawn tractor mower given to me recently and I'm using 2x60 sabertooths on 1 rc remote to 3 treadmill motors run on 24v via lithium ion 24v 7s12p pack I made. Also have 3 sets of wheelchair motors but the mower was pretty costly and I'm wondering if the 1 2x60 could work it has a 120amp burst draw it's just gonna be a 6 wheel drive rc toy I might put a couple of arms on for fun after while. Or would I need 3 2x32
Holy cow! That’s a big project. We honestly can’t say for sure without testing individual components but a single 2x60 would probably be okay for just playing around. That’s a lot of amps you’re dealing with. Be safe and keep us updated!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB most definitely it's that time of the year mowing season. So I should have something done with it in next couple weeks. I have 2 sets of thumb throttles from scooters and have couple foot petals coming. From Amazon see which more comfortable using, on top of radio controllers. I've been Honestly contemplating making a universal case that houses the 2x60 or 2 of them with quick connects and housing for whatever I currently need to use to lower costs
@@MeantToBeLindseyB kinda like a all in one control box. Imagine the infant carseats bases for your vehicle type thing. I've watched your video dozen times over last 3 years. I purchase the big stuff like the 2x6 or the batteries like I did this year. I wanted the battery to also be inside of the case so I went with spim08hp 3.7v 8ah 200amp discharge rate just got 70 of them for about 2 bucks a sell after shipping. See how it works out in just got a cnc machine too between that n 3d printing figure something out makes using these expensive driver more practical
I’m in GA. (Neighbor state. I’ve been to Franklin b4. I want to create your mower as mentioned in other video comments. However, if I can, I will take it to next level. Before I get into “Nextel level. I have got to get 1st level. It may require replacement of some phase 1 components, but with my preliminary look into next level, I may can use all previous components. My host capability will determine that.
Hello mate ! Your video inspired me to build one and it's running now. Thanks for the very informative video mate. Oh ! You mentioned that the Sabertooth required a 100 Amps fuse, is it really needed that big amps? Please point me to the article that mentioned it if you have time. Thanks again mate and be safe !
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Hello mate ! Thanks for the link. Reading it and now it mentioned somewhere that it's recommended to install fuses on the motors too for rolling the the motors when it 's unpowered will kill the motor driver. I am into electronic safety and might install one too. Thanks again !
With this type of build, we think it’s more likely the main leads will short rather than just an regular overvoltage spike. We still think that the 100 amp fuse on the battery lead is enough, but like this article says, it’s not a bad idea to also put 25 amp fuses on each motor lead.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB from that link it says the better way is to fuse the motors but they don't suggest how high a fuse you should use on the motors- any tips or ideas to do that? here's what they said - So blowing a battery fuse will sometimes kill the driver . The better way to do it is to fuse the motor leads. If a motor fuse blows, the motor will freewheel, the Sabertooth will sit there contentedly,
I have the parts laid out and am ready to go. The wheel chair motor and batteries were heavy. It was hard to find a 12v/24v motor so I got the 24v so that means I need to wire up both batteries in a series.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I bought a variable speed relay because I was concerned about the motor running speed. I didn't like mixing wire gauge on the STST switch so I bought an inline one. As this goes together I want to build the circuit small and then add items.
I agree. Keeping it simple until you get it working and then adding in components later is always a good idea. It helps with troubleshooting and easier expansions and improvements/upgrades.
Today I worked on wiring to the Sabertooth. The STST switch you recommended the wire was too thin so I bought and inline switch. The U-Clips had to be bent slightly to fit
@@MeantToBeLindseyB The inline switch was the wrong gauge so I sent it back. At this point not sure what to do about the switch. Once the inline crimps show up I think Im going to move forward with wiring in the remote controller.
How is the speed of the motors controlled? Very good and informative video. I think that I am missing something about the speed control. I have the same trans/rec. as you have to control a jazzy.
Actually, if im not mistaken, the battery voltage you give it also determines speed. Probably have 24v motors and i believe the sabertooth can handle around 30ish volts. Obviously more volts the faster it will go
@@andrewchampy5222 No. It comes already paired to the receiver when you buy it. There are a few settings you can set when you buy it, like fail safes and reversing channels based on your particular setup, but it should work straight out of the box.
Hi I followed the exact same prototype of your remote mower but now I don’t know how to release the brakes on the motors🤔🤔🤔, i got the same motors and everything, I hope you can help me, thank you 🙂
There should be 2 thin wires coming from the brakes. If you hook those to your main power, the brakes will disengage. We decided, instead, to just remove the brakes all together. Just remove the reflector end of the motor and unbolt the brake from the end of the motor and put the reflector back on the best you can. Since it’s just an emergency brake, it doesn’t affect performance.
The battery needs to be tied down. How did you manage this? I need to shorten the wires as I made them too long. I want to add the servo for the cut-off on the mower. Camera will be a good idea, too but need to get other things finished first.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I used www.ebay.com/itm/Odyssey-PC680-Aluminum-Battery-Hold-Down-Competition-Quality-Made-In-USA/262892761897?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Great video, I have to get my ass in gear and get mine built. I have the parts, need the motivation. The hills are to sketchy to keep doing it the way I am.
I just found some useful information that might help everyone out. I just bought an old White Lawncycler lc 215 e to make my next MowBot. The reason I bought it was because it already has zero turn wheels on it. After I got it home I realized it had an electric starter. After taking it apart I noticed it had a tiny alternator on the back of the engine. It mounts just like an ignition coil. I was curious so I took apart another Briggs & Stratton engine and it is also already set-up to mount a starter, and it has the holes already to mount the tiny alternator. It also already has a ring gear on the flywheel. So check all your lawnmowers that have a Briggs & Stratton engine. If you have the set-up you will be able to add electric start AND you can now have a charging system to keep your battery charged. My B&S engines are 6hp Quantums and the other is a 6hp Diamond i/c. I will try to post links to the parts below. If I cannot post them, here are the part numbers. Alternator B&S Part Number 691991. $20.99 on Amazon. Alternator Studs B&S Part Number 691094. $7.37 only available on Part Select . com. Starter B&S Part Number 799045. $155.95 on Amazon. NO MORE DEAD BATTERIES! NO MORE PLUGGING IN YOUR MOWBOT TO CHARGE THE BATTERY! I will post a link to my Facebook page below with pictures where the alternator bolts up.
Holes are on back of engine, oil tube is on drivers side of engine, alternator bolts on by oil tube, holes are on each side of the governor, the alternator studs raise it up a few inches above the governor so it can ride on the flywheel. Any questions leave a comment and I will exchange e-mails.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB You might need this flywheel too. The flywheel looks to have more magnets than the other engines. B&S part # PS9074689 flywheel. $96.28
@@MeantToBeLindseyB So for about $130 you can add an alternator to any Briggs engine as long as it has the 2 mounting holes on the back. Anyone can comment and exchange e-mails with me if you need more information or photos.
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Finally got mine done. Totally awesome
I am a complete dummy, when it comes to stuff like this .. but you've explained this so well that I believe that I can put one together... I have bought everything I need, now we just have to see if I am good enough at following your instructions to actually put it together and make it work ..
I will let you know how it came out when I am done.. I went ahead and bought the hundred amp breaker that you suggested , rather than just a fuse. and I also bought a switch setup that was already wired so I can have a switch to turn everything on. I'm putting a blinking light on mine ... and I've got an actuator that I'm using because I am mounting a plow to mine. The actuator will lift the plow up and down.. so I can plow my driveway with it . since my neighbor won't do his job like he's supposed to... I'm in a wheelchair so this project is going to be great for me... I'll let you know how she comes out.. but I just wanted to thank you for responding to all my dumb emails that I have sent to you ....
most people would not have responded after the third or fourth one . but you have sent me to the right place each time . and done a damn good job of helping me out. so well that I believe I can actually make this project go over and work ... even though I'm a dummy when it comes to things like this.... once again thanks a lot.
That's great! Keep me posted. :) Good luck!
Any updates on your progress? Good luck!
I have to agree, this is a great video. Have been looking for a simplified layout like this. Most likely won’t be using this info for a push mower, but some other RC unit on a farm or something. Thank you for the information!
The fail-safe is a really good idea.
It is sitting in my living room wheels/motors mounted. I'm tired. 2 days of drilling/re-drilling. Getting things lined up as best as can be. What an accomplishment.
What an accomplishment! You mentioned drilling/redrilling… I was attempting to replace the latch mechanism on my pickup gate, and finally did it on “Mark III”. I remarked to my wife and daughter that one section of the ladder resembles Swiss Cheese!
Excellent explanation. I fly RC so I was familiar with most of what you used, but I think it was so clear that even non RC people could get what is going on. Thanks
Thanks! That was the goal. I had no idea what he was doing originally either but I even understand it enough now to explain it (obviously) :)
Thanks id started buying thing for the project,don’t know if I survived little bit expensive for the parts ☹️
Great job explaining everything in such detail
Thanks.
Y'all are awesome. Thank you for this.
Great video! It answers so many little questions people post in RC mower videos. The highlighting of the included safety features is such a bonus. Using a step down for the receiver and an emergency cut off is something I've not seen in anyone else's build. Thank you for this update.
We're glad someone appreciates the updates. :)
thank you very much! you given important information in so available format❤
I like how you two teamed up on the dialog, very pleasant to listen to your voices! As well as informative! Thanks for sharing.
Without a doubt the BEST video I have seen on wiring an R/C mower. I've put together a collection of nearly 100 videos on R/C mowers and snowblowers and yours is my go-to for wiring.
I'm finishing up a R/C snowblower and will be using your throttle servo arrangement as the basis for a chute rotator. Being anle to rotate the chute and adding an old cell phone to wi-fi the view of where I'm going will be a big improvement over last year. I hope to be able to blow snow from INSIDE the house this year.
You two put together a fantastic video. Great job and thank you!
You’ll have to show us when you’re done. 😊
@@MeantToBeLindseyB hi my name is jodie and I would like to know what size wire I need and what kind of control driver also, plus where do I need to set the fix switch at just for the motors
All the wires and controllers are listed in the description. Also, I’m not sure what you’re asking on the the “fix switch”.
Great job. Rather than a mower I built a robot that is used to get or water plants in large in basement "greenhouse". Your suggestion of using a 12V to 5V is converter is SUPER important. I made a wiring mistake on my first attempt that created a short on the 12V side but the failed part also shorted the 5V side which was powered by the drive only. This took out the drive as well, an expensive mistake. You confirmed my suspicion about the need for a separate 5V supply.
Take care. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for that tip! We weren't initially even thinking about that part, but it's definitely useful to know this information.
Great creation and inspiring! The machine is a fantastically creative solution!I wish everyone a successful, beautiful day and weekend in strength and health!
Thank you both for this wonderful project! It is inspiring and interesting. Looking forward to more upgrade to include camera and control the mower via 4g cellphone network and GPS.:)
AWESOME. I don't really plan building RC Mower, but this might be inspiration for some other RC vehicles. Everything in the setup is logical and exactly the same as i would do it. That fail-safe mechanism was extra bonus that i would probably miss if i was building mine.
Congratulations for your time, video, advices, updates, knowledges and detailed information for us for free. You inspire me and I think, everyone. Greetings from a mexican, THANK YOU, BRAVO, BRAVÍSIMO and God bless you.
Thanks to the two of you for showing what you have done, going to be useful information.
Im in the process of building mine now. I got the wheels an front casters on. Just gotta get batteries, controller, fuse an wireing yet. This gonna be sweet. Thanks for the video
Thanks to both of You ! You two are awesome and I am sure most will appreciate your simple and down to earth expanation of everything from the build to the wiring.. Thanks again
Thanks for the positive feedback! We both appreciate it! :)
Great job on the mower. You guys are really awesome.
I'm in the process of building one right now. Great video.
Thanks for the links. This will help me to configure my project. 👍
Thanks guys. What a team. Your video has cleared up a lot of grey areas for me. Keep up the good work.
Glad it helped!
This is a great project, and I'm learning stuff.
That's awesome! So glad to hear it!
Excellent video well explained I have just got my FS I6X Tranmitter and receiver, now I know what else I need to get for the project, thanks guys
Very nicely done. Your RC Mower videos have been a lot of help.
Glad to hear it!
Could not figure out why my R/C mower would gain a mind of its own and need to be shut down for a minute when I changed direction quickly/often until I watched your video. Just ordered a step down converter to stop the fly back voltage from messing with my receiver. Thank you for your great video and information. Wish me luck.
Good luck! Since we made these videos, we've had the same issue happen a few times too. Since they are cheap, we just go ahead and replace the remote receiver and also replace the receiver leads with new leads and fresh solder on any bare copper that goes into screw terminals. We just like to make SURE that we do not have any intermittent signal loss between the receiver, step-down converter, and motor driver. It's cheap and easy to do just to give a little piece of mind ESPECIALLY if it's been acting up.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB do you really need to replace the receiver? Mine is still working fine after I turn it back on. I have done a little (very little so far) reading on special flyback current diodes. They still make me a little confused but I think that diodes would be the way to go. They would allow electricity to only be able to flow in one direction and stop the flyback current. Also, I think a person can program their remote to soften the braking for each motor. This should stop the flyback because it wouldn't be a sudden stop of input voltage. I will try to keep you informed. Thank you again!!
@@MrDozer120 It’s not a MUST REPLACE, but for us it’s a good idea and it’s fairly inexpensive and easy for the peace of mind. The diode is a good safety too.
thank you for the work of uploading these and sharing. great work and explanations.
Had built one around 5 years ago it seem to have become very popular bow im guessing beacuse the pandemic and others having time on there hands. I love seeing others build and things i might be able to add to mine. Great step by step 👍
This is really great. Thanks for the instructions and parts list. I hope to replicate your success. Best of luck with your future feats of home engineering!
Just dropping a note. I have 90% done. Just working out some safety/wireing. I tested a ford SW-3 starter solinoid. Have it working that one switch turns on the motor controler and a amber strobe light. When i contect the remote cut off relay I'll be able to see if power is off or still on. I have a servo on throttle/ground to kill the engine as a fail safe.
Very good video thank you! After watching tour video I've built my own r/c lawnmower
That is awesome!
Thanks for the inspiration! I have a similar setup but for a robot based on a Jet 3 ultra. ...the kill switch is a good idea!
Acho muito legal seus vídeos explicando e mostrando o funcionamento dos cortadores
Obrigado pelo feedback!
Hey guys great video very informative they actually sell a little spring that goes to your remote control where you take them back off and it hooks on to it so that way it turns it into a self-centering joystick which is what you need
Thanks for the tip!
And as far as putting cameras looking to fpv drone cameras
For the camera the First Person View (FPV) and VR googles used with rc planes would be perfect.
A better but way more complicated would be a 360 deg action camera again with VR goggles and realtime streaming with sensors so that when you turn your head you can see in that direction just as if you were walking behind the mower. This would be best if operating remotely so you could be aware of any safety concerns and take appropriate actions. You might even add a two way voice communication system so you could talk to those who are curious or warn off those who might want the mower for themselves.
Thus could become a nice business.
Several mowers with operators in a van with AC.
Next see what you can do to serup a rc weedeater/edger and a leaf blower
Thank you both , this is a great project Idea.
Awesome video! We are great at the fab work but need help with the tech stuff and these videos helped us a ton! Cheers! Subbed
Hi guys, love the video and its helped me understand how things work. I realize this video is over 2 years old now and you have probably already changed what I am about to tell you but if not it might be something to look at. I noticed in the video that your red power wire coming out of your motor driver to power the voltage step down regulator may be pinched under the heat sink of the motor driver. Would hate to see that short out. Hoping to make a remote controlled lawn mower soon. Gathering parts already 🙂
Cheers,
Dan Oliver
Good eye.. Thanks for the heads up! We have had issues with that. We added fork-type wire connectors for the end of all of the wires and rerouted them a bit to keep them from getting pinched or rubbed.
You have a great project. Good job and video
Great video. Just what I need! Great explanation
Great video, excellent instructions. If you want to go into production with it send me a note. Seriously!
Thanks you have answered a problem I've had w mine going into a spin.
Thank you for the detailed videos of your build. I would really like to know how the servo has been working out for your cut-off / fail safe switch. Has it been reliable during use? Have you had any issues with too much heat or vibration causing any problems while operating?
I was also wondering when you changed the spring tension to a lighter spring, did it effect the lawnmower shutting down any differently due to the change on the friction brake in the engine?
Instead of a servo, I was going to use a 12v power window motor/cable to overcome the spring tension on the lever but your solution seems so much less complicated. Sorry for all the questions, but I really like the way you solved some of the many problems faced when building an rc mower.
We have had some problems with the servo screw stripping out or unscrewing itself and the metal wire that pushes the lever bending. We have had to replace the servo a couple of times.. but they are cheap and it's still working fine.
The engine shutoff is slower, so it takes 6 seconds to stop when you hit the switch instead of 2, but that's fine. If we did it again, I would probably do what you're thinking of by using a dedicated motor like a wiper motor, but the servo is a decent "budget" solution.
Good luck, and let us know how your build goes!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thanks for your reply, that's exactly what I needed to hear. Since you say you have had some troubles and I already have this 12v window motor, I'm going to see how it works instead of buying a servo. I will let you know how it turns out.
You could bolt an extra pulley on top of the mower then mount an alternator to the side with a charge controller you could also hook up an electric start off of a snowblower and use a dc to ac converter to power it mower would always have power as long as it has gas
Not sure if u still use this but I’ve been building and using mine over 10 yrs. U have to make a steel frame for it because the toque from the motors will break the mower frame, your wiring is way more complicated than it have to, without a proper enclosure you will spend money to replace all that in couple years, u need different wheels to get any traction, the battery is way too small, u need 24v. I haven’t done this but u should go with battery operated mower to make it easy starting. I personally use mowers with a starter so I can turn the mower on and off remotely. this is an on going thing where u have to constant fixing , replacing, upgrading. I’m not even disabled but I find it’s a PIA because something always goes wrong and it’s a pia to work on and it’s take up a lot of surface space in the shed
Thanks for the tips! We have been using it since this video came out. We’ve learned a lot from it and have made some improvements (like changing the front wheels and redoing some of the electrical connections). Everything is still working fine so far, but yes… there are definitely things we could have done better. Our next build will probably be an all electric version with brushless motors. Using what we learned from this build should help it be even better next time.
I finally got my build outside and running. However, I don't have the arm to get the engine started. Many different routes. Add electric start or get an electric mower. If there is a patron saint for remote control he is sure making me work.
You can try what we did: Remove the pull starter completely (we just had to drill out the rivets) and use a power drill to start the engine. There are other, better solutions in these comments too, but that works for us!
Cant wait till you do a snowplow or blower setup
Amazing work! I'm actually going to attempt something similar but with a larger (54"!) mower deck from a riding lawn mower. I'm hoping I can find a DC 24v motor that will be able to run the deck, but I'm thinking a vertical shaft Predator engine from harbor freight might have to suffice. Thank you for the videos and knowledge!
Thomas Giboney That sounds like an amazing project! Let me know when you get it working. I’d love to see it!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Quick question! I also purchased the Flysky FS-I6X and I wonder, is there a way to stop the annoying 'inactivity' alarm? Seems to start beeping after not moving any controls on it for a few minutes.
Thomas Giboney I wish I knew this answer to this. If you figure it out, let me know. 😊
Treadmill motor
The Flysky FS-CVT01 connects to the 12v input of the BINZET DC Converter which also has 12v coming from the saber.
The voltage it reads goes...where?
I’m sorry... I thought I responded to this. The dc converter battery input is a direct connection to the battery, connected to the battery lines where the battery input for the Sabertooth is connected. The voltage sensor is connected to those same lines so it’s basically still connected directly to the battery. The output of that sensor is plugged in the the “sens” port on the remote receiver. Then, on the transmitter, you can turn on that sensor (Named ExtV2 in the System -> RX setup -> select sensors menu) so it displays the voltage on the main screen of the transmitter.
Thanks I needed this.
Really fantastic video and explanations-thank-you. This set up would be excellent for a caravan motor mover
I will check that out.
Hi to you both, Totally enjoy the video. I would like to know where you get your motor driver from?Ive started my build from an old mower i had laying around and just bought a controller. The motor driver like yours ive found runs around 280.00. Is there another one i can use?
Also do you have a video on how to setup the controller mine is a flysky i6x? Thanks Vinney
The shipping shortages are making the Sabertooth motor drivers hard to get! You can also use the Cytron motor driver, amzn.to/3IJVP66. We used one for a couple of months, but you will need to come up with a better way to affix the heat spreader. It comes just stuck on with a sticky pad, and after a couple of uses in a hot and dusty environment, it will come off and then the electronics will overheat. We tested it and it worked fine at first, but ultimately switched back to the Sabertooth when that happened to us.
As for setup on the controller, you don't NEED to do anything. It works fine right out of the box. The only change we have really made is to the "dual/exp" setting of channel 1 to make the steering more of an exponential curve rather than a linear line, which helps steering control when you're trying to turn just a little in one direction or the other. Any other changes for servos would be based on your particular setup and preferences.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thanks for the fast response. I think i am going to try the one you suggested and add a cooling fan to the top of it. The reason i asked about the transmitter was this is the first time I've ever messed with one.
I love what you two did with the push mower!!!!-and as a small engine shade tree repairman, and prior lawn service (extremely small business)owner ! wondered if you knew of other options available to add to your systems like a starter and alternator or battery charging system -to keep the servos fully charged while its running,and if you did ,why didn't you use or add them? the reason i ask is the addition would make these systems much more user friendly with a remote start and you wouldn't have to charge the batteries after mowing.I'm no way disrespecting this build, I love it!!! and hope to build one myself in the future for a personal use as I'm getting old and have a heart condition ....Not interested in pushing a mower or walking in the heat again -ever....lolololol
Thanks for the comment!
Honestly, we don’t really know much about small engines or options for a mower engine like this. We’ve gotten a lot of suggestions about adding a starter or alternator since we built this. For the next build we’re probably going to go all electric for those reasons.
As for our yard, the one battery is plenty, but we can imagine if our yard was much bigger or on a hill or something we would definitely need some more like what you’re talking about.
Good build
Thanks.
Thank you 🙏🏿
Great job
Great right up like the step down converter going to put into my build the signal wires going to motor driver you deleted the black and red from the pig tail correct and it picks up power just from the step down connection thanks again from another wheelchair user
Yes. That is correct. Good luck!
Hey guys, Once again - Great Build. I have everything in place and ready to be connected based on your recommendation of parts. I need one last piece of advice. I am actually using the same transmitter and receiver that you are. That being said I feel like this is a differential thrust type setup similar to that for a RC plane. Can you give me a little guidance on how you set your channel 1 and channel 2 to work the way that they do? I know there is channel mixing that needs to be done in order to accomplish this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The motor driver handles that. Make sure you've gone through your settings for your DIP switches for the motor driver and then just hook up channels 1 and 2 and it should just work. No additional setup should be required.
Okay. I think I've worked out the transmitter.
Next question. What size battery are you using. It's 12v but how many amp hours and how long does it run for?
I am experimenting with lipo cell batteries as I have them for other toys, but I think they will be insufficient for run time as they are 1300mah translating to 1.3ah :(
22AH battery and it runs for 20-30 minutes on a relatively level terrain. He tried a 5AH LiPo battery and he got less than 10 minutes of run time on it (that's now his backup battery)
@@MeantToBeLindseyB awesome.. thank you so much.
fantastic
Waiting now on your camera addition to this unit - really curious how to hook that up and what type of camera to get for it and should it be controlled through rasb-pi or wifi camera unit that links to a smart phone that is positioned on the top of your controller. Also had the idea of adding a 3rd servo and building a side deck to attach a 20v dewalt weedeater for trimming the sides of fences and house. Also thought about adding a small tow hitch to the back of the unit for pulling an airator and fert and seed spredder. Just thoughts right now, but really would like your input as well on these thoughts. Not wheel chair user but challenged as well and striving forward. The thought of being able to stay inside in the AC and get the job done is appealing. Anyway camera addition for being able to see where it is going is cool. Also if adding a 3rd servo will the remote have a channel available?
We've been considering getting the DJI digital camera kit for clarity and immediate response whereas a lot of wifi cameras have a lot of delay, which would be too risky. The biggest hurdle we are still trying to figure out is how we would control it so we could look behind as well as in front and on the sides for the same reasons.
As for the extra servos, there are 10-channel receivers that you can get for the transmitter we used, so you have plenty of extra channels.
it’s coming from the Motor driverThank you for answering me
You Guys are awesome
We can’t think of any reason that it would work when it’s on 2 batteries and not on just 1. We suspect you may have something else other than just the remote and receiver messed up. Email us some pictures of it hooked up both ways and we can see if we see anything obvious. Sometimes you just need a “fresh eye” to look at something. You can send it the pictures to MeantToBeLindseyB@hotmail.com
Hi. That"s so awsome. It would be great if you can build a 42" mower. Thanks so much for info how to. You guys are great.
Can you explain the DIP switches in detail? There are many options to chose from in the manual you provided. (Same set-up as yours) Thank you.
You can use the DIP switch wizard to help figure it out for each setup.
Based on OUR exact configuration, with independent steering and exponential acceleration, we have 2, 3, and 6 ON the rest OFF.
www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/SabertoothDIPWizard/start.htm
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thank you.
Not a cheap hobby. I have $1600 in this build. I only have 1 good leg so I wanted to be able to sit in my house and mow on my big screen TV, so I put a $700 Hollyland Mars, and GoPro camera system on mine. I went with a brand new Troy-Bilt mower. The back of a Troy-Bilt rear bagger mower is all plastic so I had to make steel trailing arms for it, like a Ford truck. I kept the rear open so it has a rear grass chute instead of a side chute. It worked out great. Wish I could post pictures for you. Thanks for all your videos. When I get it all finished I'll post a Facebook link to a video for you.
Holy cow! That's awesome. You'll have to send us some pics! You can email us at MeantToBeLindseyB@hotmail.com or tag @Meant To Be Lindsey B on Facebook when you're finished. It's definitely not cheap but when you're paying someone else to mow your lawn, it definitely pays for itself in the long run. Of course, we did start with a free mower, so that helped with our initial costs too. Just the sense of independence it has given both of us has been worth it though.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB You got mail!
Love the design and thank you for sharing such detailed info. I used your links on Amazon and buying the same things. Even bought the same M300 motor and gearbox on eBay. I see you wired up the motors with the pos/neg cables but what is the 3rd wire used for? The light maybe? Did you hook it up? Thanks!
That’s the wheel lock. You have to power it with 24v to release the lock. We just removed it from our motors. It’s worth doing because it makes the build simpler and it’s just a few screws right on top of the motors.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Many Thanks 😊. I will remove it too. Still waiting on items to come in but can't wait. Wish I could send you guys pics of my build.
@@larrythomas6773 Feel free to email us and keep us posted at MeantToBeLindseyB@hotmail.com
Possible upgrade: Some mowers are available with 'push-button' starting (with automatic choke). I don't know if you've got any RC channels left but, if you have, you could then start the mower remotely and sell your drill.
The fail-safe was a very good idea.
His next build will definitely be an electric mower, so we don't have to deal with any of that.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Just bought my Kobalt 80V for this project. There is a push button to start and a bar that has to be held down while mowing. Any tips?
@@dr.psprojects9591 The bar that has to be held down he replaced with his "killswitch servo" and for the push button start... That's great! You should be able to reach down to push the button to start the mower. He personally probably wouldn't try to add that start to the remote or anything like that but if you NEED to, you could probably look into an electronic relay to trigger the start but it would require taking it apart and looking at the electronics to know what would be best.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I had a royobi 40volt cordless mower and consider doing that. You will have to build a frame due to the plastic might break. You won't need to use the hold down. I found a magnetic switch in the notch for the mulcher/bag grove. Just taped a steel driver (phlips) or cut a steel rod or bolt, aaargghh into the far right of the slot.
Thanks for your videos. I got mine working today. I had to pair the receiver and transmitter, you didn't tell us about that. lol. I had to Google it, but it was easy. My only question now is how to use the fail safe. I cannot get it to work on my servo that controls the engine shut-off. I have it on channel 6 of the receiver. Same exact flysky receiver as yours. Help please.
Most receivers and transmitters come pre-bound, so our apologies for not elaborating more on that.
As for the fail safe: In the fail safe settings, make sure that the channel 6 is “on” and that the switch for the kill switch is set to the “off” position when you save the setting. Hope this helps!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I bought a 10 channel transmitter so I could use all the other buttons on my remote receiver. I still cannot use them because I don't know how to set it up yet..... I want the engine kill switch on the toggle switch. I'll figure it out. And I've tried setting the failsafe a dozen times now. It saves my settings, but it doesn't do anything.
Sorry it has taken a few days to get back to you. Hope this helps!
To get your servos working with your remote this is what you have to do on the remote:
Go to Settings->System->Aux Switches
Then turn on whichever switches you want to be able to use for controls (SwD is the far right switch that I used, so turn it on) and set the Ch # to the number of channels that your receiver has, mine has 10, but yours might be 6
To save you have to hold "cancel" for 2 seconds.
Then, go back to settings->setup->auxchannels and go to the channel number you want to output to, and then tell it which switch to use on that channel (SwD in my case) hold save to cancel your switch should now control a servo plugged into that channel with no problems.
THEN
To set the failsafe, go to settings -> system -> RX Setup -> failsafe -> channel # -> set to ON and flip the switch that it should switch to when failure happens. Hold cancel to save.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thanks. That helped. It works now.
I enjoyed the video. I want to make it too, but I'm worried about the battery. To do a 25V 250W motor, use the CYTRON MDDS30 motor drive. Please give me some advice.
You can use the same battery for that setup, or use multiple of the same battery for more speed and battery capacity based on your specific needs.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB thank you
Quick and maybe dumb question.. what would've happened if you wouldn't have put the servo on the throttle? would the blades have just remained at one speed? Also, more or less how much did you spend on all the parts and electronics? Thanks for all the explanations!! Great videos, y'all killed it!! Looking forward to do this project:)
It would be fine without the servo for the throttle. The blades motor would just remain at whatever speed you set it at, but there are times when I want to speed it up (bushes and weeds and leaves in the back yard) or slow it down (easy cut in the front, no need for all the noise and waste of gas). Depending on your particular mower, you may be able to leave off the servo and adjust it by hand as needed. Mine was too loose for that, so I had to do something. It wasn't much more work to add the servo so I figured I might as well do it the best way right off the bat. Another thing to keep in mind is that slider piece, at least on mine, is right on the corner and likes to get hit with a lot of branches from bushes and stuff, if it gets pushed to the slowest position, the blades motor will probably stop and then you'll have to start it again and reset that throttle.
The price of my particular build was about $500 + the mower.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB $500? You got off pretty easy. Motors go for $124 each on EBAY. (Left and Right Permoble M300) 2 wheels are about $100. Make sure the motors have wheel hubs or that could add another $50. The controller is another $100 unless you are lucky enough to find the smaller version. If you have someone willing to give you a free mower, used snappers like the one they use can be $150 - $200. I've got a GRAND worth of parts on the work bench now.
The inline crimps finally showed up. So been playing with the mess. The link you gave for black/Red wire is for 10 gauge. Its too big for the yellow connectors. The wire needs to be most likely 12 gauge. I was able to solder wires end to end and then cover with heat shrink. This is not the strongest wire connection but it works for now. I was also able to wire up the battery and one motor to the Saber and got a green light. Things are finally moving forward.
I'm glad to hear you've had some progress. You'll have to send me a video or something once you get it all done. :)
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Im at the point where I want to install the receiver. I understand the channel one and channel 2. Which wires on the jumper cable do I put in which port on the saber?
Rewatched the video and have a better idea. Will tackle in the morning. On a down note, the Snapper mower I bought on EBAY fell through. The seller kept changing stories on shipping so I canceled. I may just buy a battery mower and destroy the snapper gas mower I have. I thought I could do this in an afternoon but when things don't go as planned i have to be able to work around.
The white wires from the receiver on channel 1 and channel 2 go to S1 and S2 on the Sabertooth motor driver.
Yeah. He really wants to build on an electric mower next time.
almost got mine completed just need to find out what size to use for the front wheels. i have a set of 4 inch swivel wheels with ball bearings but im thinking that they are going to be too small i may have to go to a 6 inch wheel. do you have an idea what are on the electric wheel chair? Thanks
The bigger the better for going over bumps and onto sidewalks and stuff. The downside of going bigger is they have to stick out further from the body to be able to turn all the away around. The trick is to get the biggest ones you can without it being so far away from the body that you can't get the mower up to the very edges of things. We wound up going with a 5 inch swivel set for ours and it seems to work OK except for one spot where the sidewalk is really high compared to the grass.
@@MeantToBeLindseyBI picked up a couple of 5" wheels now i have to make modifications. As soon as the weather permits. Thanks for your help.
I a confused on how you wire the receiver. I understand that you use different channels for different things but where do they go exactly to which ports and also the other end... where do you connect them to? thank you for your responses.
It varies on your exact setup, but we have power in (red and black) from the step down converter to the VCC port of the receiver. Then we have just the white wire from channel 1 from the receiver to S1 port on the motor driver and just the white wire from channel 2 from the receiver to S2 port on the motor driver. Channels 1 and 2 are the controls of the right stick of the remote transmitter.
Then we have 2 servos. The servos use all 3 wires (red black and white) plugged into channels 5 and 6 of the receiver. We then went into the remote setting to set channels 5 and 6 to the dial and switch from the remote to control the kill switch and throttle on the mower. You can reference your manual for exactly how to set those settings.
After playing with the motor for an hour and a half, I found there is a switch on the side that I can flip to release the brake. The brake needs to be released to get a free moving wheel. Despite this "Duh" moment, when the other motor arrives I can test to see if this be the case. The motor that I have was tested but did not turn which is when I found out (or so I thought) that the brake needs to be removed. Also the wire clips I have nearly burned up because the wire is so thin but I know they are not rated for 12v. I must be doing something right the house hasn't burned down....yet.
Any time the house doesn't burn down, I call that a win. :)
Seems Amazon not carrying battle switchs. I have the servo connected to the throttle/engine kill. Thats great the engine will shut down as a fail safe but I would like the power to the controler also. I have a rc on/off relay and looking to use a 40amp auto 12v relay to cut power. You could use a y connect to control two servos or relays from one channel. My mower is 70% done.
Good idea using the relays. Let us know how it goes!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB will do.
Still waiting for a couple parts. Things are real slow...
1:54 What do you use the dipswitches for?
I hope you can find a way to keep the circuitry from being messed up. I assume you know what they say about an ounce of prevention. :-)
They're the configuration for the motor driver.
Update: just took the mower out today for a test. Looks like I found a relay for power is working for now. Used a 30amp fuse for testing and everything stayed pretty cool didn't get hot. I'll edit a video and upload for some feed back.
I have two vids up now. I'll post the remote relay for power and engine kill. You guy's rock. Gave me the inspiration to build one. Now to figure out new projects for the extra mortors I have..
First of all, awesome awesome video. Thank you for the effort you've put in explaining all this. I have a question about the two signal wires from the remote receiver to the sabertooth module. I see that you're not powering the remote receiver from the sabertooth module, but why is there no ground wire connected from the remote receiver to the sabertooth module?
The power and ground for the remote receiver are both coming from the power inverter. Since the inverter and the motor driver both use the same ground too we didn’t need to run a ground from the remote receiver to the motor driver. You totally could do both and having a secondary ground is a good idea.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB Thank you :)
Do you know the range capability of the system? I looking at making a machine that travels on a farm that won’t be in direct sight. Maybe to mow an electric fence line at first.
From the information I could find online about the particular transmitter and receiver we used, it looks like the range is about 1,000 meters (or a little over 1/2 a mile) but maybe slightly less since the mower is on the ground and this transmitter and receiver is used for airplanes in the sky.
Thankyou thankyou thankyou....
Great video quick question to power the motors did you have to do any settings on the remote?
For ch1 and ch2
No. It's ready to go.
Great project, thanks. Do you have any link to the motors used ?
Unfortunately no. We found them on ebay though.
Hey good job I have a question how did u wire the GLOSO
GLOSO E99 Waterproof IP67 Marine Auto Truck Hi-Amp Circuit Breaker (100A)
There are two terminals. One in and one out. You should should run your positive lead from the battery into the in terminal of the circuit breaker and then another wire from the out terminal of the circuit breaker into the positive terminal of the motor driver.
I have a lawn mower (two 350w motors) controlled by a sabertooth 2x25 and a flysky i6ab. All fonctionned.
I had to change the wheel transmission, so I had to dismantel the electronics. Now, all remounted at the original position, when I turn on the circuit, one wheel start spinning alone. (turning on the flysky, it cannot drives. I am not a specialist).
I succesfully rebinded, but the wheel start again. On the flysky display appear a third line: SIGS1:10. What does it mean? (i suggest somethings about velocity of motor 1). What can i do?
Thanks
It's hard to know from your description. If everything worked correctly before, it seems like it's a wiring issue. If it never worked correctly to begin with, it would could be a settings issue or a wiring issue.
We would check the DIP switches on the motor driver using the manual to set them for your current setup. Then I would unplug everything and reconnect it one connection at a time, ensuring that the signal wires from the remote receiver are connected to the correct input ports in the motor driver (channel 1 to 1 and channel 2 to 2). Ensure there are no frayed or loose wires and all the wires are plugged in correctly ESPECIALLY on the remote receiver where it is very easy to plug in the wires upside down or in the wrong channel.
Rebind the remote receiver and reset the setting on it if anything has changed. Let us know if you need more help!
Great job, I'm converting my riding mower but I have hills, can you do one with a track system? Or spiked wheels
The wheels we have can do up and down hills pretty well. It does struggle going sideways along a hill. Better traction tires would work better. Or you could even get solid tires and put screws in the tires.
You could also make it like a track system like you mentioned, but that’s a LOT more work IMO.
Thank you for doing this series. I watched the three parts yesterday then stopped for the day, thinking I had seen at some point all the parts laid out and a single link for a kit that included everything. When I came back today, I can no longer find that part of the video nor that simplfied link. does such a link exist and what's the location/timestamp for it?
We don't use a kit in the videos but all of the parts we have used are listed in all of the video descriptions. This video has the most recent list of parts.
Doing 2 projects that are similar to yours. I got a riding lawn tractor mower given to me recently and I'm using 2x60 sabertooths on 1 rc remote to 3 treadmill motors run on 24v via lithium ion 24v 7s12p pack I made. Also have 3 sets of wheelchair motors but the mower was pretty costly and I'm wondering if the 1 2x60 could work it has a 120amp burst draw it's just gonna be a 6 wheel drive rc toy I might put a couple of arms on for fun after while. Or would I need 3 2x32
Holy cow! That’s a big project. We honestly can’t say for sure without testing individual components but a single 2x60 would probably be okay for just playing around. That’s a lot of amps you’re dealing with. Be safe and keep us updated!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB most definitely it's that time of the year mowing season. So I should have something done with it in next couple weeks. I have 2 sets of thumb throttles from scooters and have couple foot petals coming. From Amazon see which more comfortable using, on top of radio controllers. I've been Honestly contemplating making a universal case that houses the 2x60 or 2 of them with quick connects and housing for whatever I currently need to use to lower costs
@@MeantToBeLindseyB kinda like a all in one control box. Imagine the infant carseats bases for your vehicle type thing. I've watched your video dozen times over last 3 years. I purchase the big stuff like the 2x6 or the batteries like I did this year. I wanted the battery to also be inside of the case so I went with spim08hp 3.7v 8ah 200amp discharge rate just got 70 of them for about 2 bucks a sell after shipping. See how it works out in just got a cnc machine too between that n 3d printing figure something out makes using these expensive driver more practical
I’m in GA. (Neighbor state. I’ve been to Franklin b4.
I want to create your mower as mentioned in other video comments.
However, if I can, I will take it to next level. Before I get into “Nextel level. I have got to get 1st level. It may require replacement of some phase 1 components, but with my preliminary look into next level, I may can use all previous components. My host capability will determine that.
Awesome! Let us know how it turns out!
Great job hope turn my electric motor into power wheels with flysky control
Cool! Tell us how it turns out!
Hello mate ! Your video inspired me to build one and it's running now. Thanks for the very informative video mate. Oh ! You mentioned that the Sabertooth required a 100 Amps fuse, is it really needed that big amps? Please point me to the article that mentioned it if you have time. Thanks again mate and be safe !
help.dimensionengineering.com/knowledgebase.php?article=2
@@MeantToBeLindseyB
Hello mate ! Thanks for the link. Reading it and now it mentioned somewhere that it's recommended to install fuses on the motors too for rolling the the motors when it 's unpowered will kill the motor driver. I am into electronic safety and might install one too. Thanks again !
With this type of build, we think it’s more likely the main leads will short rather than just an regular overvoltage spike. We still think that the 100 amp fuse on the battery lead is enough, but like this article says, it’s not a bad idea to also put 25 amp fuses on each motor lead.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB
Totally agree with you.. I will surely install a 25 amps on my motor leads for added protection. Thanks for responding. Sub !
@@MeantToBeLindseyB from that link it says the better way is to fuse the motors but they don't suggest how high a fuse you should use on the motors- any tips or ideas to do that? here's what they said - So blowing a battery fuse will sometimes kill the driver .
The better way to do it is to fuse the motor leads. If a motor fuse blows, the motor will freewheel, the Sabertooth will sit there contentedly,
I have the parts laid out and am ready to go. The wheel chair motor and batteries were heavy. It was hard to find a 12v/24v motor so I got the 24v so that means I need to wire up both batteries in a series.
Correct. A 24 volt motor does work with a 12 volt battery. It's just going to go half the speed. That's exactly what our setup is.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I bought a variable speed relay because I was concerned about the motor running speed. I didn't like mixing wire gauge on the STST switch so I bought an inline one. As this goes together I want to build the circuit small and then add items.
I agree. Keeping it simple until you get it working and then adding in components later is always a good idea. It helps with troubleshooting and easier expansions and improvements/upgrades.
Today I worked on wiring to the Sabertooth. The STST switch you recommended the wire was too thin so I bought and inline switch. The U-Clips had to be bent slightly to fit
@@MeantToBeLindseyB The inline switch was the wrong gauge so I sent it back. At this point not sure what to do about the switch. Once the inline crimps show up I think Im going to move forward with wiring in the remote controller.
How is the speed of the motors controlled? Very good and informative video. I think that I am missing something about the speed control. I have the same trans/rec. as you have to control a jazzy.
The motor driver determines the speed based on the input from the remote receiver.
Actually, if im not mistaken, the battery voltage you give it also determines speed. Probably have 24v motors and i believe the sabertooth can handle around 30ish volts. Obviously more volts the faster it will go
Heres my build so far: ua-cam.com/video/sLSd_26TjEk/v-deo.html
The battery voltage does determine the max speed. In the testing, he determined that 12-volts gave plenty of max speed for our usage.
Looks great!
I hope I hear from you both soon.
I need your help with this. I'm trying to somewhat copy your design and I'm having trouble.
Feel free to email me at MeantToBeLindseyB@hotmail.com and I’ll see if I can help you.
These guys are great they will help you and they will explain it to you so you can figure it out
Hello MeantToBeLindseyB, do I need to do anything to the transmitter to make it work?
@@andrewchampy5222 No. It comes already paired to the receiver when you buy it. There are a few settings you can set when you buy it, like fail safes and reversing channels based on your particular setup, but it should work straight out of the box.
Hi, how did you released the brakes on the motors????? Thank you!
Hi I followed the exact same prototype of your remote mower but now I don’t know how to release the brakes on the motors🤔🤔🤔, i got the same motors and everything, I hope you can help me, thank you 🙂
There should be 2 thin wires coming from the brakes. If you hook those to your main power, the brakes will disengage. We decided, instead, to just remove the brakes all together. Just remove the reflector end of the motor and unbolt the brake from the end of the motor and put the reflector back on the best you can. Since it’s just an emergency brake, it doesn’t affect performance.
The battery needs to be tied down. How did you manage this? I need to shorten the wires as I made them too long. I want to add the servo for the cut-off on the mower. Camera will be a good idea, too but need to get other things finished first.
He just uses zip ties for now. It's not a great long term solution but it works.
@@MeantToBeLindseyB I used www.ebay.com/itm/Odyssey-PC680-Aluminum-Battery-Hold-Down-Competition-Quality-Made-In-USA/262892761897?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Great video, I have to get my ass in gear and get mine built. I have the parts, need the motivation. The hills are to sketchy to keep doing it the way I am.
Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.
I just found some useful information that might help everyone out. I just bought an old White Lawncycler lc 215 e to make my next MowBot. The reason I bought it was because it already has zero turn wheels on it. After I got it home I realized it had an electric starter. After taking it apart I noticed it had a tiny alternator on the back of the engine. It mounts just like an ignition coil. I was curious so I took apart another Briggs & Stratton engine and it is also already set-up to mount a starter, and it has the holes already to mount the tiny alternator. It also already has a ring gear on the flywheel. So check all your lawnmowers that have a Briggs & Stratton engine. If you have the set-up you will be able to add electric start AND you can now have a charging system to keep your battery charged. My B&S engines are 6hp Quantums and the other is a 6hp Diamond i/c. I will try to post links to the parts below. If I cannot post them, here are the part numbers. Alternator B&S Part Number 691991. $20.99 on Amazon. Alternator Studs B&S Part Number 691094. $7.37 only available on Part Select . com. Starter B&S Part Number 799045. $155.95 on Amazon. NO MORE DEAD BATTERIES! NO MORE PLUGGING IN YOUR MOWBOT TO CHARGE THE BATTERY! I will post a link to my Facebook page below with pictures where the alternator bolts up.
Wont let me post a link to Facebook.
Holes are on back of engine, oil tube is on drivers side of engine, alternator bolts on by oil tube, holes are on each side of the governor, the alternator studs raise it up a few inches above the governor so it can ride on the flywheel. Any questions leave a comment and I will exchange e-mails.
Thanks for sharing this info!
@@MeantToBeLindseyB You might need this flywheel too. The flywheel looks to have more magnets than the other engines. B&S part # PS9074689 flywheel. $96.28
@@MeantToBeLindseyB So for about $130 you can add an alternator to any Briggs engine as long as it has the 2 mounting holes on the back. Anyone can comment and exchange e-mails with me if you need more information or photos.