Short video to follow up on the "how about steel?" questions .. and some thoughts on accuracy. Sit back, relax, and watch as I make some bonehead moves trying to figure things out.
Hey Tony, a few observations:- For roughing a pocket on CNC mill, I would use a flat bottom drill (indexable U-drill) to punch all the holes, this puts all the load back in the Z axis which is the most rigid and will be faster material removal- For finishing the pocket, do not finish the walls and the bottom face in the same pass. This adds more tool engagement, and can cause chatter and you'll feel a step in the bottom of the pocket. Finish the bottom face to depth but stay 0.05mm off the walls. then come back and finish the walls, with the cutter to depth. this will blend the bottom face and reduce chatter / tool deflection.- No coolant for milling - this gives a temperature shock to the carbide and will cause it to break prematurely.- Check the rigidity of your axis - put an indicator on the tool along X, and push on the spindle in X to see if there is any slop in the bearings (same for Y). This could be the missing reason why you are off after backlash comp, since this test is checking more in a dynamic condition instead of with no cutting loadsLove the vids!Adam
I’ve had to troubleshoot some weird machine issues as a QA guy when maintenance was out of ideas. Hole patterns shifting, dimensional “drift”, all kinds of stuff. I suggest running each axis back and forth through the full range of motion to a dial indicator at the home location with no spindle load first. You will see your scale error and lost motion (uncompensated backlash or missed encoder counts) that you might not otherwise see. I just set up a program to run the drives back and forth and log the measurements on a dial indicator to see the changes without “homing” the machine. Then I’ll run the drives out and check the max travel then back to zero on the machine to see if there is an issue on the other extent of motion. Finally, I’ll run the homing cycle and then advance the drives to maximum checking both measurements - sometimes the homing cycle is the main culprit for lots of silly CNC behavior. You can take it as far as you want, like instead of just indicating on the spindle mount, you can also indicate off of two contact points on the gantry - something that makes sense on dual-driven gantry machines especially I would use 30 samples of each to have a big enough sample to determine actual machine capability. It may seem like overkill but if you do this after machine crashes, repair, or whole troubleshooting, you can see what has changed from the previous state. Troubleshoot with parts/spindle load after doing this to reduce the number of variables because if the machine is well within your expectations on the drives alone, then you know what is being driven by the material/spindle load/work holding.
Nice Video and a pretty rigid machine! Just a few thoughts I had about your machining: Your CAM system supports adaptive roughing with radial engagement control. Instead of switching your spindle to be able to machine the old fashioned way, make yourself use of the new technology. These paths were invented for high speed cutting at low radial engagement rates and high spindle speeds and bring the benefit to reduce torque and forces on the spindle due to the small engagement. Just raise your depth of cut up to 2x diameter of the cutter. So I wouldnt mind running the pockets with the 6mm end mill you've chosen with a spindle speed of around 16.000RPM, feed per tooth of 0.05 - 0.07mm (starting lower and check whether your spindle and stepper motors can handle it) but with radial engagement of around 10 - 15%. But for this you have to use climb milling. Benefit of this way of machining is a huge time saving and your tool life is also increased because you are spreading the load on a wider cutting length. At this high speed all the heat gets away through the chips, so no coolant is necessary anymore. With these parameters I was able to cut aluminum on my cheese mill (it literally was one, huge gantry, massive deflection of Z-axis and a poor Suhner spindle) with a 6mm carbide endmill. Anyway, I really enjoyed your videos! :) Just go on like that, your projects are great!
I've had a ball nut screw loose a few times, and it is so frustrating. Until you realize the problem, then everything is good with the world again, and you swear you'll check that first next time, except that the next time might be a year later, and by then I'll have forgotten the lesson, and the cycle sadly repeats.
@@thecouchpotato4652 The long metal like screw is your ballscrew. That movable thingy that slides up and down on the ballscrew is your ballnut. Now, the small screws that you use to bolt the ballnut to a plate or surface is your ballnut screw.
Well, I will say your cnc is a stunning machine. Much nicer than the home made project I have tackled. Though I didn't have quite as much need for something that sophisticated. I have gotten mine down to well under 2 thousandth on a good day on aluminum, though I have upgraded its core hardware a few times as I have learned. And its speeds are also much slower than yours, but it does have enough precision for the projects I run on it. I would like a bit faster times but for the paltry amount of money I have into it, it does ok for my needs. But your table is a good example of what is possible, it is more than a few rungs up the ladder for sure! And it may be the basis of the next one I build should I need it.
TOT, did you knock on wood? You had your gage blocks out and they live in a nice "wooden house!" You could have also used it handle on your small scraper you recently made. The one with the handle made from a split log. You can do quite a bit of "knocking on wood!" Knock on wood you don't have to!! Have a great day!!
It would be nice to hear about accuracy by old equipment, not even in my time but like a couple of hundreds years back when they did not even had a dial indicator. I do not know about that time accuracy, however I'll have something about the unnecessary accuracy,just for interest sake. That was an interesting program, I know nothing about CNC and I was amazed that the rpm was 75,000, Wow!, what kind of bearings in that spindle? And cooling? Very intefesting. Thanks
I really wanted a lathe and old bridgeport for the shop. But the more i watch Tony the more i feel ill never know what I'm doing or even where to begin.
pjsalchemy says, "Love the graphic overlay's and screen shots to explain your thinking and actions Tony...and taking the time to do them! " end quote: I too like the comments, but suggest using a black font on white background. White on white is very hard to see. Great video
Coming from someone who made their own CNC machine, yours came out pretty darn good. My machine is also gantry mill, unfortunately, the don't have enough metal to make a proper table, which wouldn't be a problem--except that I am also milling metal on 20mm of MDF, which screams like a banshee. Perhaps I should feel good that the rest of the machine is fairly solid, but that MDF deflects enough to be felt, and even if it only deflects .01mm, if you consider how the area and displacement, it makes a great speaker. Because you have a solid table, if you are doing thin metal part, perhaps you could use blue-tac to couple your part to your vice or clamping solution, to quiet it down. If course it would have to be dry to start. It could even be stuck to the end of a part like a suspended mass kind of dampener.
Hay Tony thanks for all the videos! Question have you considered making a geared down spindle? You know to get a slower speed and higher torque for cutting steel. I’m currently building a cnc router for making plugs and bucks for composite and sheet metal work and this series of videos has been huge help.
Your content just gets better and better, easily becoming one of my fav youtubers. Think ive almost watched all your content in a few days. Are you on any of the social medias?
Intuitive video as are most of what you have done. Not sure if you have thought about it but you may want to look into a Anti-Backlash Nut Block. That may help reduce your backlash problem rather than trying to compensate for it in the software. very nice machine though.
Hi Tony, well done! I'm planning to make my own cnc router. Do you have a list or something with the parts you used? I would appreciate it if I could get it. Thank you
I'm curious about there being no mention of tooling diameter error here. How precise are your tooling measurements? I'm more experienced with wood routing, and the idea of a bit being .001" wider or narrower than it should be doesn't sound farfetched to me at all, and would be a significant, even majority, contributor to the error you measured here.
Hi Tony, Really useful stuff and dead relevant to me right now. I need to do this on my homebrew CNC mill. Is there a reason you went for pockets and not something on which you could measure an outside measurement? Cheers!
Hi Tony, thanks a lot for your Videos on your router project! It learned a lot from you. At the time I started to convert an old engraving maschine (Deckel G1L) to an CNC maschine. I use NEMA34 steppers that that turn the heavy maschine easy. The problem is the backlash. The next steps are learning CAD and CAM with OpenCAD and Heeks. How did you choose the Software? (I use LinuxCNC to drive the maschine) Again thanks for the great informations on your project. It was great!!! Jens
Love to see how that works out for you, I have a G1L also that I use for little engravings - I actually mostly print out images large on paper and then mount them on the table between two clear plastic sheets and freehand trace the picture. But I have thought about CNC conversion - along with making a sliding head similar to the G1F but possibly with its own spindle motor instead of using the engraving spindle. www.e-engraving.com/machines/deckel/img/Deckel_G1F.jpg
Nice machine. Definitely a good candidate for CNC conversion, especially the G1F. Might have trouble with lifting the table for the Z axis. Might need counter weight or pulley reduction on a NEMA 34. Might consider just putting a z axis on the spindle mount arm.
At the end of the video you say a "suitable spindle for steel" may be in the future. Do you already have an idea of what type? Can you share your thoughts? Thanks - WadeO
+Wade'o Design Initially I thought to buy a spindle head from a place like LittleMachineShop, but they're a little underpowered (and big!). Sooner or later I think I'll likely make my own spindle (two bearings, a spindle and a pulley) and use the spindle you saw in the video to drive that 2nd spindle. if I have space! The goal would be: 1) get the spindle speed down (10:1 would be nice!) and 2) get the loads off of the drive spindle bearings an onto something beefier.
I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.
I've been watching a lot of your videos and I really just wanted to say, great job. You have really high quality video, the focus is well done, the lighting is even and interesting, and your shots are perfect. Also, your audio is really clear, and doesn't change from video to video. You tell really good stories with your projects including what you were thinking and why you did things a certain way. It really feels like you bring us along with you on the the journey but not in a haphazardly way. It's like you thought through the story before you told it. I really just wanted to thank you for putting out such high quality stuff. You must work really hard to make your videos, and you should be proud of them. Thank you.
I know I'm necro'ing here, but I just stumbled on Tony's videos. And I too was thinking "he's a really good story teller" And the opening scene in vid #1 with the "ah...fudge" but I didn't say fudge" had me laughing. I don't think people understand how long it takes to produce the video. Adding the little birdie that popped in and out, for example. Thank you for the videos. I'm learning like crazy. And that rubber band gun...Brilliant.
Nice machine, and I am quite suprised how well the chinese HF Spindle handles steel :) Is there a special reason why youre conventional milling? With ball screws its no problem and way easier on the tool to climb mill. I would also try to do completely machine steel dry - Only with airblast to clear the chips. Thanks for sharing, great video!
+Stefan Gotteswinter I have actually just swapped to conventional on my BF20 for steel roughing passes.. Climb, especially around corners snap tooling and stall 850w motors in my experience (12mm 3mm width, 10mm depth @ 297mm/min) which is what FSwizard gave me. It also chatters and vibrates the whole machine.. (135kg mill) Conventional chatters a little but cuts a lot smoother but leaves a rough finish, so I just clean up with climb..
Climb milling depends on machine rigidity as well as what kind of screws and bearings you are using. Even with the best ball screws, if the machine hasn’t enough mass and structure to prevent vibration, climb milling isn’t a good idea.
As always, a really interesting and "watchable" video. There are times when I grit my teeth and keep watching something to the end because the content is interesting, even though the video is terrible! Then I see something of yours, and I realise how good things can be! Thank you so much! :o)
without reading the comments below, here's my thoughts that might help: I work in wood but that doesn't really change the issues that you're having. The end result is the same. That finishing pass was all over the place which resulted in the patterning on the cut. You could hear the bit touching the outside of the pocket when I don't think it was supposed to. (that could have been the backlash issues). I'm not sure if solid works has the ability to do this, but I use Vectric aspire and what I do for my rough cut, (wood) is leave .04" on the material. Then go back and use a finishing pass of 0" at about 1/5th the feedrate to remove this last little bit. My depth of cut is .01" deeper for my finishing pass. I have the option in Aspire of doing a raster cut (which it kind of looked like Tony was doing) or an offset...and what offset does is mill the shape of the pocket in subsequent circular passes eventually getting to the final size. Then, leaving the .04" on the material on the perimeter, and .01" on the bottom. I go back with another profile tool path to remove this material on the perimeter (at the slower speed). It produces an amazing finish on the cut. Now I'm not working near the tolerances you are, but still, I want to be able to cut to a "thou" as well....(ever since I started using vernier calipers for woodwork). But my machine is about as rigid as a piece of over cooked spaghetti so until I upgrade, that isnt' happening. What I AM doing though is trying to get a baby butt smooth finish and semi accurate. BTW: I hope after tightening your screws you put threadlock on them....they were probably loosened by the vibrations of that first pass. One other thing: (you might have thought of this already) You might want to try taking less off per pass....you know, if you want 1/8" total depth, take 1/16" off each pass.....you might find your accuracy goes up. I know your machine is built like a tank, but everything has flex...taking less off will remove that flex.....(ask me about flex sometime, my CNC router uses PLASTIC for structural elements). Also: you might want to check the bottom cutting face of your endmill..is it perfectly square? I had crazy chatter and weird patterning on a tool path and couldn't figure out what was causing it....checked the machine, nothing out of the ordinary...I finally checked my router bit (2 flute straight cut) and one of the carbide cutting edges was longer than the other.....
Why did you opt for conventional milling on your roughing pass, and climb milling on the finish? This strikes me as counter intuitive. JUNIOR machinist over here, so I'm just looking to learn what I can, where I can.
Good eye, Brad! I come from a manual machining background.. mostly on old, worn out machines. In that case, climb milling is the best way to break cutters. Old habits, I suppose. I've since switched to mostly climb milling on the CNC router.
In climb, the cutting edge comes down onto fresh material at an angle - the chip begins thick and tapers off to nothing. If there is any tool push-off, the error gets cut off by the next tooth. In conventional, the cutting edge approaches the material tangentially - essentially beginning the chip at zero thickness and getting thicker as it cuts. The error left by tool push-off gets left behind as a ripple or scallop in the surface. Climb milling usually cuts cleaner because the cutting edge doesn't have to "rub" (and deflect the tool or workpiece) before developing enough tool pressure to cut into the workpiece. But, as Tony says, with a machine that has significant backlash or spindle slop, climb milling can pull the tool into the workpiece (or vice versa) and suddenly take a much bigger bite than intended, which tends to be tough on tools. This is why you can only use climb to take very light finishing passes on a loose machine.
Yeah, I only work with nice tight production CNC machines nowadays. I don't use conventional machining for much of anything anymore. I don't know the limitations of these smaller CNC jobs, but I'm not sure it's terribly relevant here. I would think that, unless you're pushing the machine WAY too hard, the benefits of climb milling will far outweigh the drawbacks. Good stuff to think about though, thanks.
At 10:28 - you have the right idea. An old machinist told me back in '76: "If the micrometer says the part measures big, you're not measuring hard enough!" Same guy who told me, "Son, one thing you NEVER want to see in a machine shop is excitement." The longer I live, the truer that one becomes! 🙄😬😬🙄
Tony, I like the video. I run SolidWorks and HSMWorks also. If I were you id try running the feedrate much faster with a much smaller radial stepover. Basically look up settings for a high speed toolpath. This will also allow you to get away with the higher SFM that you are forces to run. At your current settings you are only taking .0004"/tooth which is going to be really hard on tools and is why your machine is screeching and not really making chips.
100% those harmonics and the peeling/ribboning of the steel is a dead giveaway that you are recutting some chips while pushing into others causing huge tool wear
The end mill tips are not exact length, no matter how fine the grind. The first tip to contact the work directs the spindle axis into an orbit. As the cut proceeds, the tips change length, imparting new orbit moments, continually, transmitted into the gantry frame. Direct your very fine high speed camera onto the spindle to watch the fun. While the cut may be fine for a while, be assured that all axes are receiving the beating of their lives, with cumulative effect.
I was also having problems on my G0704 CNC mill with accuracy. Everything was spot on when measuring movement with a dial indicator, but parts were still coming out off size by 0.005" or more. One thing to make sure of is that your dial indicator holder isn't flexing when you're measuring the actual axis movement. I have the same holder as you and it was showing 0.005" short over a 1" move due to flex. After I mounted it more rigidly it was measuring 1" spot on with the calculated steps per inch for my ball screw's pitch. Another thing to take into account is the tool's actual diameter. Some of my end mills are up to 0.004" from the nominal size. Use wear compensation in HSMExpress instead of the default compensation and measure your tools actual diameters across the flutes and enter that into your CNC controller software. Finally you need to consider the machines rigidity. The cutting forces are high enough to push the cutter off the desired path so that holes etc come out significantly undersized. There's an easy fix for this, just run multiple finishing passes. Depending on how sharp the tools are, you may need more. I take up to four for some tools. It's easy to check if rigidity is a problem for you, just save your finishing pass as a separate file, and run it again after the first time. If you still are getting chips, even very small ones, rigidity is a problem. Re-run it as many times as it takes for it to stop making chips, and then just program that many finishing passes for everything. Once you've done all that then measure how far off you are and compensate for each tool by adjusting it's wear parameter. After all this I'm getting sub 0.001" accuracy on my G0704 mill which I'm pretty damn happy with!
2 years too late but.. Should be climbing not conventional cutting. 7500 is right on the money for that size carbide, you could run that 10-12k without too much issue. These style spindle are powerful but not hoggers. Go full depth, use a 10-20% stepover and adjust the feed for chip thinning, you'll find you can double the feed with an adaptive. Ally you could run full speed, 80% max feed rate and then adjust the step over to suit spindle load. Your feed will limit the cutting more than the spindle. Anyway, 2 years too late.
We got metric in Denmark, but we also got stupid numbers. We say "En og tyve" for 21. Directly translates into "One and Twenty". It get's wierder than that, but hard to explain.
Hmm.. I wonder if mine can handle it. Shes not rated for it, that's for sure, but shes a cncrouterparts 4x8, shes got a beefy watercooled spindle... she goes down to like 100rpm if I really want her to... it might just be worth buying a carbide endmill and seeing if I can save myself 600 dollars on buying a manual mill. You're taking some thick cuts, and I'm enough of a wimp I'd probably do 3x as many passes...
First, I want to say, I love your style of presentation, and your choice of content. I also think you are a very bright fellow, who is not afraid to try something out of the ordinary. With that, I would like to suggest a project, that I think you can handle. Since backlash is always an issue with stepper motors and screw,s, have you considered micro hydraulics ? Telescoping Piston,s would minimize space requirements under the table. Hydraulic,s, are not prone to backlash, assuming there,s no air in the system. I know there are machines available with hydraulics on the market, but I was only able to find it in large industrial machinery. It seems miniature hydraulics might have a place in the home workshop. One pump could run multiple pieces of equipment, similar to air driven tools.
I definitely prefer Imperial dimensioning, but metric conversion is easy enough. .03937 x mm = Imperial Multiply times tem for cm. Another great video Tony.
what is the stepper motor driver that you are using and did you try to use any other microstepping index configuration, for instance did you try the 1/256 available in the drv8711 driver ?
To mitigate the misreading due to end mill diameter and runout you should make an inner and outer pocket and use the mean value to remove radial compensation of the equation. Or you can run a ball bar test.
Are you using blue or red loctite on the screws? I would imagine that you could get away with doing so as replacing the rails shouldn't be a common occurrence.
I don't mean to be rude, but why in gods name you turn that micro from big knob O.o (as a professional machinist that's gonna F*** up your micros in no time[all so gives you false readings]) Love your videos tho! Greetings from Finland!
l saw your last video. Together with this one, it is magnificent! I haven't seen any router machine can really cut steel so efficiently as yours. What toggle camps are you using? It is surprising that the workpiece did not move any under the high cutting force. What any famous vises are proud of? Gantry type machine will have balance force in machining when cutter or workpiece located in two ends positions...ln future, if I get the capabilities as yours, I would build gantry type as well as on z-axis, so the whole length (of X or Y axis ) moves up and down, keep a little flexing on Z spindle/cutter..
+raychar cheung I don't recall exactly, I think just the run of the mill Irwin or Kant Twist. Cutting forces weren't too high. Thanks for watching and good luck with your build!
What helped me more than anything else was accurately measuring the cutting tools HSS co tools are pretty close but carbide can vary quite a bit with manufacturers. Good vids
Olá amigo, parabéns pelo projeto da Cnc, ficou excelente ! Tenho uma pergunta, qual a rotação (rpm) do spindle e qual a potência desse spindle, ele parece formidável ! Desde já muito obg, falando aqui do Brasil!!
Great video Tony! I used many of your ideas to build my own machine. I Purchased a VFD driven 2.2 kilowatt spindle and found it isn’t the best choice for metal cutting due to it’s high speed and lack of torque at low-speed. Do you have any suggestions for an alternative spindle?
Hey Tony- always enjoy the excellent videos so thanks for that, With regards to the steel issue I know you have already have had lots of great input below but here is an idea you may think worth considering, with your equipment and ability you could build a bespoke spindle for the motor you now use as a power source. The idea would be to have good quality bearings and a strong spindle( with the possibility of tool change capabilities according to your wishes and design ideas) that is belt driven in two main modes- high and low. This would give you high torque low( ideal cutting speed for the cutter and material) cutting speed and regular 1;1 high speed options with much more rigidity. A lot of work and extra weight I know but maybe a good way to get more versatility and broad based accuracy.
Any benefit to be had with TiN coated carbide mill or Ti carbide mill in raising rpm? New steel-cutting blades use TiC tooth tips. Perhaps a v. small flywheel -hmmm, well you DO have the armature, but what of harmonics? Resonant frequencies? Shoot, clamp the flywheel to the bit shank. Perhaps would damp router speed control pulsation. This is just guessing on my part, so please excuse MY errors, LOL.
Hi Tony wau for a router it didn't do that bad job removed quite a bit material. Since I have converted my Optimum Bf16 to CNC last week 😅 I look all content that has to do it again. I. Used 3 x Nema 34 hyprid closed loop steppers with 12Nm they have real power and are very accurate cause controlling the steps made and in case of lost steps catching them up. If i understand the 3 axis I will put the 4th and 5th on also with Nema 34 steppers. Decided to use Mach3 so I had to use Fusion360 on the other the 64bit computer.. In the beginning cnc is a big mystery but I'm not giving up to understand it someday 😁😎👍 Wish you all the best.. Wolfs from Austria
you probably know this by now but mach can't handle decimal steps. that is why you have gremlins creeping in. you should have set it to 404 and not 404.04040404
Tony: How are the bearings on that spindle hold up milling metal? I have a 3KW version thinking about mounting it on my CNC converted TOS mill. The mill is sturdy enough, but I'm afraid the spindle will be short lived in such service.
Tonithan! You showed a new MPG pendant in one of your new videos and I can't find that video, so which one did you end up using? I remember you saying that the XHC was basically garbage, but what did you get after that?
Hi sir ,am nishad from india.I have cnc machine can cut wood upto 10mm.But now i need to cut 1.4mm ms sheet with some profile works.Please advice hw to upgrade...the machine
First square pocked roughing was interpolated clockwise and generating maximum cutting force. Try climbing instead of conventional and you'll certainly lower the vibrations and noise.
In regard to co-ordinates, hate to break the news buddy:
Your X isn't coming back, don't ask Y, and that's Z truth.
Can I use this?
Makavelli Offspring sure, you can buy a lifetime license for only 14,99, or use the 30 day trial version.
He can't solve for X. LOL
Genius:evolving. I had missed this 2016 jewel. Thank you
Hey Tony, a few observations:- For roughing a pocket on CNC mill, I would use a flat bottom drill (indexable U-drill) to punch all the holes, this puts all the load back in the Z axis which is the most rigid and will be faster material removal- For finishing the pocket, do not finish the walls and the bottom face in the same pass. This adds more tool engagement, and can cause chatter and you'll feel a step in the bottom of the pocket. Finish the bottom face to depth but stay 0.05mm off the walls. then come back and finish the walls, with the cutter to depth. this will blend the bottom face and reduce chatter / tool deflection.- No coolant for milling - this gives a temperature shock to the carbide and will cause it to break prematurely.- Check the rigidity of your axis - put an indicator on the tool along X, and push on the spindle in X to see if there is any slop in the bearings (same for Y). This could be the missing reason why you are off after backlash comp, since this test is checking more in a dynamic condition instead of with no cutting loadsLove the vids!Adam
+Adam Kraehling Some good tips there Adam, thanks for writing!
I’ve had to troubleshoot some weird machine issues as a QA guy when maintenance was out of ideas. Hole patterns shifting, dimensional “drift”, all kinds of stuff.
I suggest running each axis back and forth through the full range of motion to a dial indicator at the home location with no spindle load first. You will see your scale error and lost motion (uncompensated backlash or missed encoder counts) that you might not otherwise see. I just set up a program to run the drives back and forth and log the measurements on a dial indicator to see the changes without “homing” the machine. Then I’ll run the drives out and check the max travel then back to zero on the machine to see if there is an issue on the other extent of motion. Finally, I’ll run the homing cycle and then advance the drives to maximum checking both measurements - sometimes the homing cycle is the main culprit for lots of silly CNC behavior.
You can take it as far as you want, like instead of just indicating on the spindle mount, you can also indicate off of two contact points on the gantry - something that makes sense on dual-driven gantry machines especially
I would use 30 samples of each to have a big enough sample to determine actual machine capability. It may seem like overkill but if you do this after machine crashes, repair, or whole troubleshooting, you can see what has changed from the previous state.
Troubleshoot with parts/spindle load after doing this to reduce the number of variables because if the machine is well within your expectations on the drives alone, then you know what is being driven by the material/spindle load/work holding.
Nice Video and a pretty rigid machine!
Just a few thoughts I had about your machining:
Your CAM system supports adaptive roughing with radial engagement control. Instead of switching your spindle to be able to machine the old fashioned way, make yourself use of the new technology.
These paths were invented for high speed cutting at low radial engagement rates and high spindle speeds and bring the benefit to reduce torque and forces on the spindle due to the small engagement. Just raise your depth of cut up to 2x diameter of the cutter.
So I wouldnt mind running the pockets with the 6mm end mill you've chosen with a spindle speed of around 16.000RPM, feed per tooth of 0.05 - 0.07mm (starting lower and check whether your spindle and stepper motors can handle it) but with radial engagement of around 10 - 15%. But for this you have to use climb milling.
Benefit of this way of machining is a huge time saving and your tool life is also increased because you are spreading the load on a wider cutting length.
At this high speed all the heat gets away through the chips, so no coolant is necessary anymore.
With these parameters I was able to cut aluminum on my cheese mill (it literally was one, huge gantry, massive deflection of Z-axis and a poor Suhner spindle) with a 6mm carbide endmill.
Anyway, I really enjoyed your videos! :) Just go on like that, your projects are great!
I've had a ball nut screw loose a few times, and it is so frustrating. Until you realize the problem, then everything is good with the world again, and you swear you'll check that first next time, except that the next time might be a year later, and by then I'll have forgotten the lesson, and the cycle sadly repeats.
What is a ball nut screw?
@@thecouchpotato4652 The long metal like screw is your ballscrew. That movable thingy that slides up and down on the ballscrew is your ballnut. Now, the small screws that you use to bolt the ballnut to a plate or surface is your ballnut screw.
I know this is an old video but the fact they both came out exactly the same is a good thing. Means it's all in the tune.
my favorite engineer @This Old Tony
Thanks Sonny!
Well, I will say your cnc is a stunning machine. Much nicer than the home made project I have tackled. Though I didn't have quite as much need for something that sophisticated. I have gotten mine down to well under 2 thousandth on a good day on aluminum, though I have upgraded its core hardware a few times as I have learned. And its speeds are also much slower than yours, but it does have enough precision for the projects I run on it. I would like a bit faster times but for the paltry amount of money I have into it, it does ok for my needs. But your table is a good example of what is possible, it is more than a few rungs up the ladder for sure! And it may be the basis of the next one I build should I need it.
Use climb cut instead of conventional. a lot less vibrations, better cut precision and tool life.
I’d like to hear more about that ‘aggressive bunny’ 🐰
TOT, did you knock on wood? You had your gage blocks out and they live in a nice "wooden house!" You could have also used it handle on your small scraper you recently made. The one with the handle made from a split log. You can do quite a bit of "knocking on wood!" Knock on wood you don't have to!! Have a great day!!
Great job Tony. Seems to cut pretty good for DIY. Well done.
Thanks for the update. I enjoy you thought process and testing methods. Keep up the good work.
Measure with the little knob on the caliper, that way you always apply the same pressure ;)
Love the vids
It would be nice to hear about accuracy by old equipment, not even in my time but like a couple of hundreds years back when they did not even had a dial indicator. I do not know about that time accuracy, however I'll have something about the unnecessary accuracy,just for interest sake. That was an interesting program, I know nothing about CNC and I was amazed that the rpm was 75,000, Wow!, what kind of bearings in that spindle? And cooling? Very intefesting. Thanks
Nice work and an interesting series. Thanks!
I really wanted a lathe and old bridgeport for the shop. But the more i watch Tony the more i feel ill never know what I'm doing or even where to begin.
pjsalchemy says, "Love the graphic overlay's and screen shots to explain your thinking and actions Tony...and taking the time to do them! " end quote: I too like the comments, but suggest using a black font on white background. White on white is very hard to see. Great video
Coming from someone who made their own CNC machine, yours came out pretty darn good.
My machine is also gantry mill, unfortunately, the don't have enough metal to make a proper table, which wouldn't be a problem--except that I am also milling metal on 20mm of MDF, which screams like a banshee. Perhaps I should feel good that the rest of the machine is fairly solid, but that MDF deflects enough to be felt, and even if it only deflects .01mm, if you consider how the area and displacement, it makes a great speaker.
Because you have a solid table, if you are doing thin metal part, perhaps you could use blue-tac to couple your part to your vice or clamping solution, to quiet it down. If course it would have to be dry to start. It could even be stuck to the end of a part like a suspended mass kind of dampener.
Hay Tony thanks for all the videos!
Question have you considered making a geared down spindle? You know to get a slower speed and higher torque for cutting steel.
I’m currently building a cnc router for making plugs and bucks for composite and sheet metal work and this series of videos has been huge help.
A really nice machine Tony, I am sure that once you get everything dialed in it will exceed your expectations. Thanks for sharing!
Your content just gets better and better, easily becoming one of my fav youtubers. Think ive almost watched all your content in a few days.
Are you on any of the social medias?
khe sanh, bow river, star hotel - Cold Chisel, my town down-under, going roo shooting for Crissy!!
Amazing vid
Intuitive video as are most of what you have done. Not sure if you have thought about it but you may want to look into a Anti-Backlash Nut Block. That may help reduce your backlash problem rather than trying to compensate for it in the software. very nice machine though.
Thanks Scott!
Cool! Good run down. Thanks.
That's just alright, very nice work.
Hi Tony, well done!
I'm planning to make my own cnc router. Do you have a list or something with the parts you used? I would appreciate it if I could get it.
Thank you
I think You can miling pocet's in the opposite direction. this will help
I'm curious about there being no mention of tooling diameter error here. How precise are your tooling measurements? I'm more experienced with wood routing, and the idea of a bit being .001" wider or narrower than it should be doesn't sound farfetched to me at all, and would be a significant, even majority, contributor to the error you measured here.
Accuracy.... Paying attention...
Hi Tony,
Really useful stuff and dead relevant to me right now.
I need to do this on my homebrew CNC mill. Is there a reason you went for pockets and not something on which you could measure an outside measurement?
Cheers!
Hi Tony,
thanks a lot for your Videos on your router project! It learned a lot from you. At the time I started to convert an old engraving maschine (Deckel G1L) to an CNC maschine. I use NEMA34 steppers that that turn the heavy maschine easy. The problem is the backlash.
The next steps are learning CAD and CAM with OpenCAD and Heeks. How did you choose the Software? (I use LinuxCNC to drive the maschine)
Again thanks for the great informations on your project. It was great!!!
Jens
If you're not dead set on that route, check out fusion360. It has built in CAM, and I find it to be very intuitive.
Love to see how that works out for you, I have a G1L also that I use for little engravings - I actually mostly print out images large on paper and then mount them on the table between two clear plastic sheets and freehand trace the picture.
But I have thought about CNC conversion - along with making a sliding head similar to the G1F but possibly with its own spindle motor instead of using the engraving spindle. www.e-engraving.com/machines/deckel/img/Deckel_G1F.jpg
Nice machine. Definitely a good candidate for CNC conversion, especially the G1F. Might have trouble with lifting the table for the Z axis. Might need counter weight or pulley reduction on a NEMA 34. Might consider just putting a z axis on the spindle mount arm.
Why are you not using the smaller knob at the end of your gauge to tighten it to the workpiece?
add venturi to inject coolant...:) go solidworks !!!
how about heat compensaion?🤔
i work with CNC but we work in plastic and there we allways comp for heat (expansion)...
How about a new turd sniping video? Those were some of your best.
What cnc would you recommend that can cut metal under $1000?
TOT diy cnc
Would you point me or provide details on the machine you are using?
👍😎
Wait. The router doesn’t have sensors? Why?
wonder how your machine would do with Master Cam??
How would that differ? Or you mean using something like dynamic cutting?
What type of CNC router do you use, that can cut steel?
Never mind, found the rest of the series. Awesome!
The guitar music is a tad too present in the mix. At least for the first minute, so far. Little difficult to pull your voice out, Tony.
At the end of the video you say a "suitable spindle for steel" may be in the future. Do you already have an idea of what type? Can you share your thoughts? Thanks - WadeO
+Wade'o Design Initially I thought to buy a spindle head from a place like LittleMachineShop, but they're a little underpowered (and big!). Sooner or later I think I'll likely make my own spindle (two bearings, a spindle and a pulley) and use the spindle you saw in the video to drive that 2nd spindle. if I have space! The goal would be: 1) get the spindle speed down (10:1 would be nice!) and 2) get the loads off of the drive spindle bearings an onto something beefier.
Notice you are using a steel router.
I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.
I've been watching a lot of your videos and I really just wanted to say, great job. You have really high quality video, the focus is well done, the lighting is even and interesting, and your shots are perfect. Also, your audio is really clear, and doesn't change from video to video. You tell really good stories with your projects including what you were thinking and why you did things a certain way. It really feels like you bring us along with you on the the journey but not in a haphazardly way. It's like you thought through the story before you told it.
I really just wanted to thank you for putting out such high quality stuff. You must work really hard to make your videos, and you should be proud of them.
Thank you.
Why thank you fancyfeast.. I appreciate that. Thanks for watching!
I'm surprised there aren't many more viewers than there are. I just found the channel this week & it's been the highlight of the week.
I know I'm necro'ing here, but I just stumbled on Tony's videos. And I too was thinking "he's a really good story teller" And the opening scene in vid #1 with the "ah...fudge" but I didn't say fudge" had me laughing. I don't think people understand how long it takes to produce the video. Adding the little birdie that popped in and out, for example. Thank you for the videos. I'm learning like crazy. And that rubber band gun...Brilliant.
ha ha ha
are you running skim or 2% for cooling?
I hear almond milk works best.
Nice machine, and I am quite suprised how well the chinese HF Spindle handles steel :)
Is there a special reason why youre conventional milling? With ball screws its no problem and way easier on the tool to climb mill.
I would also try to do completely machine steel dry - Only with airblast to clear the chips.
Thanks for sharing, great video!
+Stefan Gotteswinter Stefan, thanks for stopping by & thanks for the tips, I'll give them a try!
+This Old Tony what's the deal with you mixing metric and imperial, where are your from?
+Stefan Gotteswinter I have actually just swapped to conventional on my BF20 for steel roughing passes.. Climb, especially around corners snap tooling and stall 850w motors in my experience (12mm 3mm width, 10mm depth @ 297mm/min) which is what FSwizard gave me. It also chatters and vibrates the whole machine.. (135kg mill)
Conventional chatters a little but cuts a lot smoother but leaves a rough finish, so I just clean up with climb..
Climb milling depends on machine rigidity as well as what kind of screws and bearings you are using. Even with the best ball screws, if the machine hasn’t enough mass and structure to prevent vibration, climb milling isn’t a good idea.
@@beard-bear-420 where are *your* from?
As always, a really interesting and "watchable" video. There are times when I grit my teeth and keep watching something to the end because the content is interesting, even though the video is terrible! Then I see something of yours, and I realise how good things can be! Thank you so much! :o)
without reading the comments below, here's my thoughts that might help:
I work in wood but that doesn't really change the issues that you're having. The end result is the same.
That finishing pass was all over the place which resulted in the patterning on the cut. You could hear the bit touching the outside of the pocket when I don't think it was supposed to. (that could have been the backlash issues).
I'm not sure if solid works has the ability to do this, but I use Vectric aspire and what I do for my rough cut, (wood) is leave .04" on the material. Then go back and use a finishing pass of 0" at about 1/5th the feedrate to remove this last little bit. My depth of cut is .01" deeper for my finishing pass.
I have the option in Aspire of doing a raster cut (which it kind of looked like Tony was doing) or an offset...and what offset does is mill the shape of the pocket in subsequent circular passes eventually getting to the final size. Then, leaving the .04" on the material on the perimeter, and .01" on the bottom. I go back with another profile tool path to remove this material on the perimeter (at the slower speed). It produces an amazing finish on the cut.
Now I'm not working near the tolerances you are, but still, I want to be able to cut to a "thou" as well....(ever since I started using vernier calipers for woodwork). But my machine is about as rigid as a piece of over cooked spaghetti so until I upgrade, that isnt' happening. What I AM doing though is trying to get a baby butt smooth finish and semi accurate.
BTW: I hope after tightening your screws you put threadlock on them....they were probably loosened by the vibrations of that first pass.
One other thing: (you might have thought of this already) You might want to try taking less off per pass....you know, if you want 1/8" total depth, take 1/16" off each pass.....you might find your accuracy goes up. I know your machine is built like a tank, but everything has flex...taking less off will remove that flex.....(ask me about flex sometime, my CNC router uses PLASTIC for structural elements).
Also: you might want to check the bottom cutting face of your endmill..is it perfectly square? I had crazy chatter and weird patterning on a tool path and couldn't figure out what was causing it....checked the machine, nothing out of the ordinary...I finally checked my router bit (2 flute straight cut) and one of the carbide cutting edges was longer than the other.....
Why did you opt for conventional milling on your roughing pass, and climb milling on the finish? This strikes me as counter intuitive.
JUNIOR machinist over here, so I'm just looking to learn what I can, where I can.
Good eye, Brad! I come from a manual machining background.. mostly on old, worn out machines. In that case, climb milling is the best way to break cutters. Old habits, I suppose. I've since switched to mostly climb milling on the CNC router.
In climb, the cutting edge comes down onto fresh material at an angle - the chip begins thick and tapers off to nothing. If there is any tool push-off, the error gets cut off by the next tooth. In conventional, the cutting edge approaches the material tangentially - essentially beginning the chip at zero thickness and getting thicker as it cuts. The error left by tool push-off gets left behind as a ripple or scallop in the surface. Climb milling usually cuts cleaner because the cutting edge doesn't have to "rub" (and deflect the tool or workpiece) before developing enough tool pressure to cut into the workpiece.
But, as Tony says, with a machine that has significant backlash or spindle slop, climb milling can pull the tool into the workpiece (or vice versa) and suddenly take a much bigger bite than intended, which tends to be tough on tools. This is why you can only use climb to take very light finishing passes on a loose machine.
Yeah, I only work with nice tight production CNC machines nowadays. I don't use conventional machining for much of anything anymore.
I don't know the limitations of these smaller CNC jobs, but I'm not sure it's terribly relevant here. I would think that, unless you're pushing the machine WAY too hard, the benefits of climb milling will far outweigh the drawbacks.
Good stuff to think about though, thanks.
Honestly I'm still astonished you home brewed a cnc machine that's accurate down to hundredths of a mm
At 10:28 - you have the right idea. An old machinist told me back in '76: "If the micrometer says the part measures big, you're not measuring hard enough!" Same guy who told me, "Son, one thing you NEVER want to see in a machine shop is excitement." The longer I live, the truer that one becomes! 🙄😬😬🙄
`The more of your video's I watch the more you are becoming my favorite UA-camr! Well done Dude
there is a low rpm torque boost option on chinese inverter have you activated it?
Turn closed captioning on for this video for a real laugh. At the end it translates "looks like a dork anyway I hope you found it interesting." LOL
Tony, I like the video. I run SolidWorks and HSMWorks also. If I were you id try running the feedrate much faster with a much smaller radial stepover. Basically look up settings for a high speed toolpath. This will also allow you to get away with the higher SFM that you are forces to run. At your current settings you are only taking .0004"/tooth which is going to be really hard on tools and is why your machine is screeching and not really making chips.
100% those harmonics and the peeling/ribboning of the steel is a dead giveaway that you are recutting some chips while pushing into others causing huge tool wear
The end mill tips are not exact length, no matter how fine the grind. The first tip to contact the work directs the spindle axis into an orbit. As the cut proceeds, the tips change length, imparting new orbit moments, continually, transmitted into the gantry frame.
Direct your very fine high speed camera onto the spindle to watch the fun.
While the cut may be fine for a while, be assured that all axes are receiving the beating of their lives, with cumulative effect.
I was also having problems on my G0704 CNC mill with accuracy. Everything was spot on when measuring movement with a dial indicator, but parts were still coming out off size by 0.005" or more. One thing to make sure of is that your dial indicator holder isn't flexing when you're measuring the actual axis movement. I have the same holder as you and it was showing 0.005" short over a 1" move due to flex. After I mounted it more rigidly it was measuring 1" spot on with the calculated steps per inch for my ball screw's pitch. Another thing to take into account is the tool's actual diameter. Some of my end mills are up to 0.004" from the nominal size. Use wear compensation in HSMExpress instead of the default compensation and measure your tools actual diameters across the flutes and enter that into your CNC controller software. Finally you need to consider the machines rigidity. The cutting forces are high enough to push the cutter off the desired path so that holes etc come out significantly undersized. There's an easy fix for this, just run multiple finishing passes. Depending on how sharp the tools are, you may need more. I take up to four for some tools. It's easy to check if rigidity is a problem for you, just save your finishing pass as a separate file, and run it again after the first time. If you still are getting chips, even very small ones, rigidity is a problem. Re-run it as many times as it takes for it to stop making chips, and then just program that many finishing passes for everything. Once you've done all that then measure how far off you are and compensate for each tool by adjusting it's wear parameter. After all this I'm getting sub 0.001" accuracy on my G0704 mill which I'm pretty damn happy with!
Interesting points / good info.. thanks Andrew!
2 years too late but.. Should be climbing not conventional cutting. 7500 is right on the money for that size carbide, you could run that 10-12k without too much issue. These style spindle are powerful but not hoggers. Go full depth, use a 10-20% stepover and adjust the feed for chip thinning, you'll find you can double the feed with an adaptive.
Ally you could run full speed, 80% max feed rate and then adjust the step over to suit spindle load. Your feed will limit the cutting more than the spindle.
Anyway, 2 years too late.
My brains don`t work in inches too! Hello from Europe:-)
We got metric in Denmark, but we also got stupid numbers. We say "En og tyve" for 21. Directly translates into "One and Twenty". It get's wierder than that, but hard to explain.
@@bolodotdk Tohundre-fem og halv fjers?
Hmm.. I wonder if mine can handle it. Shes not rated for it, that's for sure, but shes a cncrouterparts 4x8, shes got a beefy watercooled spindle... she goes down to like 100rpm if I really want her to... it might just be worth buying a carbide endmill and seeing if I can save myself 600 dollars on buying a manual mill. You're taking some thick cuts, and I'm enough of a wimp I'd probably do 3x as many passes...
Don't look are your micrometer's reading while you tighten down. You'll end up tightening to your expected dimension instead of getting the actual.
First, I want to say, I love your style of presentation, and your choice of content. I also think you are a very bright fellow, who is not afraid to try something out of the ordinary. With that, I would like to suggest a project, that I think you can handle. Since backlash is always an issue with stepper motors and screw,s, have you considered micro hydraulics ? Telescoping Piston,s would minimize space requirements under the table. Hydraulic,s, are not prone to backlash, assuming there,s no air in the system. I know there are machines available with hydraulics on the market, but I was only able to find it in large industrial machinery. It seems miniature hydraulics might have a place in the home workshop. One pump could run multiple pieces of equipment, similar to air driven tools.
I definitely prefer Imperial dimensioning, but metric conversion is easy enough.
.03937 x mm = Imperial
Multiply times tem for cm.
Another great video Tony.
what is the stepper motor driver that you are using and did you try to use any other microstepping index configuration, for instance did you try the 1/256 available in the drv8711 driver ?
To mitigate the misreading due to end mill diameter and runout you should make an inner and outer pocket and use the mean value to remove radial compensation of the equation. Or you can run a ball bar test.
Why no contour finishing pass? It should give a better finish and accuracy compared to adaptive.
Hey Tony. Now that you have your CNC Mill, do you use the router much? If not, wanna sell it? lol
You're always a pleasure to watch, Mr. Tony, a real class act! Thanks for the vids!
Are you using blue or red loctite on the screws? I would imagine that you could get away with doing so as replacing the rails shouldn't be a common occurrence.
I don't mean to be rude, but why in gods name you turn that micro from big knob O.o (as a professional machinist that's gonna F*** up your micros in no time[all so gives you false readings]) Love your videos tho! Greetings from Finland!
09:35 "less than a thou" = Lesotho 😂
l saw your last video. Together with this one, it is magnificent! I haven't seen any router machine can really cut steel so efficiently as yours. What toggle camps are you using? It is surprising that the workpiece did not move any under the high cutting force. What any famous vises are proud of?
Gantry type machine will have balance force in machining when cutter or workpiece located in two ends positions...ln future, if I get the capabilities as yours, I would build gantry type as well as on z-axis, so the whole length (of X or Y axis ) moves up and down, keep a little flexing on Z spindle/cutter..
+raychar cheung I don't recall exactly, I think just the run of the mill Irwin or Kant Twist. Cutting forces weren't too high. Thanks for watching and good luck with your build!
What helped me more than anything else was accurately measuring the cutting tools HSS co tools are pretty close but carbide can vary quite a bit with manufacturers. Good vids
Excellent point, thanks Steve!
Olá amigo, parabéns pelo projeto da Cnc, ficou excelente ! Tenho uma pergunta, qual a rotação (rpm) do spindle e qual a potência desse spindle, ele parece formidável ! Desde já muito obg, falando aqui do Brasil!!
Great video Tony! I used many of your ideas to build my own machine. I Purchased a VFD driven 2.2 kilowatt spindle and found it isn’t the best choice for metal cutting due to it’s high speed and lack of torque at low-speed. Do you have any suggestions for an alternative spindle?
Hey Tony- always enjoy the excellent videos so thanks for that, With regards to the steel issue I know you have already have had lots of great input below but here is an idea you may think worth considering, with your equipment and ability you could build a bespoke spindle for the motor you now use as a power source. The idea would be to have good quality bearings and a strong spindle( with the possibility of tool change capabilities according to your wishes and design ideas) that is belt driven in two main modes- high and low. This would give you high torque low( ideal cutting speed for the cutter and material) cutting speed and regular 1;1 high speed options with much more rigidity. A lot of work and extra weight I know but maybe a good way to get more versatility and broad based accuracy.
Any benefit to be had with TiN coated carbide mill or Ti carbide mill in raising rpm? New steel-cutting blades use TiC tooth tips. Perhaps a v. small flywheel -hmmm, well you DO have the armature, but what of harmonics? Resonant frequencies? Shoot, clamp the flywheel to the bit shank. Perhaps would damp router speed control pulsation. This is just guessing on my part, so please excuse MY errors, LOL.
Hi Tony wau for a router it didn't do that bad job removed quite a bit material. Since I have converted my Optimum Bf16 to CNC last week 😅 I look all content that has to do it again. I. Used 3 x Nema 34 hyprid closed loop steppers with 12Nm they have real power and are very accurate cause controlling the steps made and in case of lost steps catching them up. If i understand the 3 axis I will put the 4th and 5th on also with Nema 34 steppers.
Decided to use Mach3 so I had to use Fusion360 on the other the 64bit computer.. In the beginning cnc is a big mystery but I'm not giving up to understand it someday 😁😎👍
Wish you all the best.. Wolfs from Austria
"Everything here is metric, but I still think in inches"... you sound like an Englishman.
Is that really a 2hp motor? I see you had 1.5 kw in Gwizard...
Ive been using Hertz spindles from Turkey.
They're considerably better than chinese spindles and not much more expensive.
Great video Tony. What bit are you using?
you probably know this by now but mach can't handle decimal steps. that is why you have gremlins creeping in. you should have set it to 404 and not 404.04040404
Tony: How are the bearings on that spindle hold up milling metal?
I have a 3KW version thinking about mounting it on my CNC converted TOS mill.
The mill is sturdy enough, but I'm afraid the spindle will be short lived in such service.
Tonithan! You showed a new MPG pendant in one of your new videos and I can't find that video, so which one did you end up using? I remember you saying that the XHC was basically garbage, but what did you get after that?
0.001 inch is 0.0254mm that's good. New tool cut 0.01 short never had tool that cut correct,but never do oversize always shy
If you could go back in time and splurge on one part what would you have bought better ? Bearings, spindle, having a surface sent out and machined ?
Hi sir ,am nishad from india.I have cnc machine can cut wood upto 10mm.But now i need to cut 1.4mm ms sheet with some profile works.Please advice hw to upgrade...the machine
Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What size collet does that spindle have er16??
hi tony, what it is the power rated of the spinle motor?
why am I just seeing this now?! This is the first time I ever see someone do a good walk thru of some gosh dang calcumalations on the confuser.
OK, odd question - how did you display the dimensions at 2:11? is that just a ms paint (ish) overlay, or do you know of a Solidworks feature I don't?
Silent Partner - The Engagement. Good music choice.
First square pocked roughing was interpolated clockwise and generating maximum cutting force.
Try climbing instead of conventional and you'll certainly lower the vibrations and noise.